In my experience, this is a peerless doweling jig; if you take a few additinal steps not immediately apparent from this very helpful video. Note that the range of material thicknesses is 14mm to 30mm. As part of your initial setup, mark a line through the center of the edge in the area where you are going to drill your dowel(s). Thereafter, remove the two guidebush blocks that you will not use at this time ( because they do not contain the hole sizes that you need). Then attach the jig as shown in this video AND slide the guidebush blocks vertically until the guidemarks on both sides of the blocks align with the line through the center of the target edge faces. Screw the blocks in place and follow the rest of the steps in the video for aligned dowels. Just remember to perform the block adjustment step as you set up to drill the holes when your board-thickness changes. I hope this helps.
I bought this jig a year ago and finally had the chance to use it on a dowling project where I could use it enough to try and get proficient with the tool. But after nine test holes, one end of the joint was perfect, but the other consistently was off ever so slightly, but enough to be frustrating. I watched this,and two other videos that demonstrated the jig, several times and reread the manual that came with the jig to try and understand what I was doing wrong. But at last I gave up and resorted back to pocket screws, which have never failed me. I really want this jig to work! I was using 3/4” oak plywood, but was unable to adjust the 3/8 holes to the center of the board edge, and the end closest to the auxiliary support was the end that was off a bit. By the way, I was attempting to dowel a 90 degree corner. I would love to hear from anyone who has solved this issue!
If there’s misalignment first check the jig itself to make sure that the holes line up. Unlikely that there’s a problem there but manufacturing isn’t always perfect. Next make sure those bushing blocks are secured correctly. Lastly the weakness with this jig is making sure both pieces of stock are in perfect alignment prior to drilling. I recommend a right angle stop that you push both pieces against before tightening and drilling. Make sure that stop is clamped and perfectly 90 degrees
@@AereForst the problem is that the jig doesn't self center the holes, even on 3/4" thick lumber. I've used it on several project and it's been complete ass. the holes are always ever so slightly skewed from center so it can really mess things up for your alignment. I'd stay away from this product if I were you.
Hello Mr Vanderlist, I’d recognise that voice anywhere. Hope that life is treating you and your family really well mate. You may be out of sight but you are never forgotten mate. Great to hear your voice
This jig would be better if there were distance marks on the edge near the 'floating' drill guides for centre of hole to base plate. When the drill guides are tightened in the fully home position you do not get flush joints. Either that or mine has a manufacturers defect.... Distance marks would allow you to confirm that edges and joints will be flush.
Pretty damn tedious to use. I had this in mind for a 4 piece butt joint window trim frame, but talk about making an easy thing a headache. Once upon a time I had a wonderful little Craftsman jig - 1 piece with 1 clamp and a rotating bit guide to select for dowel size with a pointer for your pencil marks. Easy peasy and worked perfectly! This thing? Ugh, it's going back.
Only if you don't need to strengthen the joint, otherwise. A biscuit only helps with alignment. Much better with a domino....or if you can afford it...the brilliant Mafell Duo Doweler.
This is not a self-centering jig. If you are looking for a jig that self-centers take a look at the Milescraft JointMate. Our metric version is model #1369 or DowelJigKit model #1359.
When demonstrating this tool why does everyone show a shelf mounted a few inches from the edge of the board? Presumably you can't fit a shelf say half way down a book case.
Hello, if the book case frame is already made, then you are correct, you cannot dowel a shelf half way down. However, if you are building from scratch, you can pre-mark and put all your holes wherever you want shelves, and then assemble all at once. Once the unit is glued together, adding extra shelves any where in the middle will require something like pocket hole joinery or using shelf pins. Thanks!
@@milescraft I had been watching a number of vids showing various different dowel jigs, some more helpful than others! After watching this one again I think my comment was intended for one of the others! This one makes the method quite clear, I should pay more attention.😏
Stupid question here, is it at all possible to adjust this tool? The project I’m working on, after I drilled the holes are off ever so small, but still off... thx
the problem is that the jig doesn't self center the holes, even on 3/4" thick lumber. I've used it on several project and it's been complete ass. the holes are always ever so slightly skewed from center so it can really mess things up for your alignment. I'd stay away from this product if I were you.
Luis, MIlescraft products can be purchased by our retailer in Chili. For your reference, I have included a link to the Carpintaria website for your reference - carpintaria.cl/# - Milescraft Inc.
We have not done this project yet, but it should be possible that you can do up to 2.25" in board thickness. This may take some adjustments, but it should be able to be done. We call out 1.5" in our manual for the instructions.
Peter, we do have retailers in Australia that carry this item. Perhaps you can have it delivered: www.timbecon.com.au/joinery/biscuiting-dowelling/jointpro-dowelling-jig www.timberbits.com/milescraft-1361-metric-jointpro They go quickly, so just keep in touch with them and I am sure you can get your hands on one. They both order frequently.
I'm considering buying one from this retailer. I am making a set of drawers where the dowels will be in the narrow sides of the timber pieces which are only about 100mm (4") wide. The video only shows the dowels being inserted into the long sides of work pieces. How effective is this system with narrow faces like this? How closely can you mount the supporting clamp to the main jig? In other words, what is the narrowest work piece that can be used while maintaining support from the support clamp?
Awesome jig but that drill need some serious attention if not a new chuck or to be chucked in the trash. The run-out is ridiculous. If you have to fight too hold it steady you should have bought a different drill.
Giancarlo, While Milescraft does not have a retailer partner in Rome, this can be purchased from one of our retailers in France. For your reference, I have included a link to the Otelo website, where you can order the #1361 JointPro, in the metric size. www.otelo.fr/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Otelo-France-Site/fr_FR/-/EUR/Navigation-Dispatch?Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Default_OTFR&Nu=p_SkuGroup_ID&N=16037+16046&SearchEngineBar=true&Ntt=jointpro&x=0&y=0
This product is available in Brazil, in the metric size, #1361 JointPro. For your reference, I have included a link to the ToolsBr website, where you can purchase this product. www.toolsbr.com.br/milescraft---fixador-universal-(metrico)-de-cavilhas
In my experience, this is a peerless doweling jig; if you take a few additinal steps not immediately apparent from this very helpful video.
Note that the range of material thicknesses is 14mm to 30mm.
As part of your initial setup, mark a line through the center of the edge in the area where you are going to drill your dowel(s). Thereafter, remove the two guidebush blocks that you will not use at this time ( because they do not contain the hole sizes that you need).
Then attach the jig as shown in this video AND slide the guidebush blocks vertically until the guidemarks on both sides of the blocks align with the line through the center of the target edge faces. Screw the blocks in place and follow the rest of the steps in the video for aligned dowels.
Just remember to perform the block adjustment step as you set up to drill the holes when your board-thickness changes.
I hope this helps.
I bought this jig a year ago and finally had the chance to use it on a dowling project where I could use it enough to try and get proficient with the tool. But after nine test holes, one end of the joint was perfect, but the other consistently was off ever so slightly, but enough to be frustrating. I watched this,and two other videos that demonstrated the jig, several times and reread the manual that came with the jig to try and understand what I was doing wrong. But at last I gave up and resorted back to pocket screws, which have never failed me. I really want this jig to work! I was using 3/4” oak plywood, but was unable to adjust the 3/8 holes to the center of the board edge, and the end closest to the auxiliary support was the end that was off a bit. By the way, I was attempting to dowel a 90 degree corner. I would love to hear from anyone who has solved this issue!
Did you already found a solution or any alternative product/method?
If there’s misalignment first check the jig itself to make sure that the holes line up. Unlikely that there’s a problem there but manufacturing isn’t always perfect. Next make sure those bushing blocks are secured correctly. Lastly the weakness with this jig is making sure both pieces of stock are in perfect alignment prior to drilling. I recommend a right angle stop that you push both pieces against before tightening and drilling. Make sure that stop is clamped and perfectly 90 degrees
@@AereForst the problem is that the jig doesn't self center the holes, even on 3/4" thick lumber. I've used it on several project and it's been complete ass. the holes are always ever so slightly skewed from center so it can really mess things up for your alignment. I'd stay away from this product if I were you.
@@indyzdSorry to hear that. I’ve had great results with mine.
Hello Mr Vanderlist, I’d recognise that voice anywhere. Hope that life is treating you and your family really well mate. You may be out of sight but you are never forgotten mate. Great to hear your voice
I was 30 seconds into it and had the same thought.
Ehh, even in demo video I can see it's not prefectly aligned (7:44) :/
Beautiful absolutely beautiful
Thank you.
This jig would be better if there were distance marks on the edge near the 'floating' drill guides for centre of hole to base plate. When the drill guides are tightened in the fully home position you do not get flush joints. Either that or mine has a manufacturers defect.... Distance marks would allow you to confirm that edges and joints will be flush.
Pretty damn tedious to use. I had this in mind for a 4 piece butt joint window trim frame, but talk about making an easy thing a headache. Once upon a time I had a wonderful little Craftsman jig - 1 piece with 1 clamp and a rotating bit guide to select for dowel size with a pointer for your pencil marks. Easy peasy and worked perfectly! This thing? Ugh, it's going back.
this is best argument to use biscuit joiner. by the time you set these up and align them you can finish a project with biscuit joiner
Only if you don't need to strengthen the joint, otherwise. A biscuit only helps with alignment. Much better with a domino....or if you can afford it...the brilliant Mafell Duo Doweler.
If I want to use the smallest holes it won’t align with the crowd the board how come?
How can this tool autocenter boards of 16, 19 or 35 mm boards?
This is not a self-centering jig. If you are looking for a jig that self-centers take a look at the Milescraft JointMate. Our metric version is model #1369 or DowelJigKit model #1359.
Why is the audio so quiet???
When demonstrating this tool why does everyone show a shelf mounted a few inches from the edge of the board? Presumably you can't fit a shelf say half way down a book case.
Hello, if the book case frame is already made, then you are correct, you cannot dowel a shelf half way down. However, if you are building from scratch, you can pre-mark and put all your holes wherever you want shelves, and then assemble all at once. Once the unit is glued together, adding extra shelves any where in the middle will require something like pocket hole joinery or using shelf pins. Thanks!
@@milescraft I had been watching a number of vids showing various different dowel jigs, some more helpful than others! After watching this one again I think my comment was intended for one of the others! This one makes the method quite clear, I should pay more attention.😏
Stupid question here, is it at all possible to adjust this tool? The project I’m working on, after I drilled the holes are off ever so small, but still off... thx
the problem is that the jig doesn't self center the holes, even on 3/4" thick lumber. I've used it on several project and it's been complete ass. the holes are always ever so slightly skewed from center so it can really mess things up for your alignment. I'd stay away from this product if I were you.
What is the maximum thickness of the board?
Check out our manual for help with this: milescraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/1311-JointPRO_manual.pdf
Kreg vs Milescraft bench lock clamps😊
Question. Would this tool still work if I used it on 38mm scaffold boards? Would the holes still be in the centre on the edge of the board?
Hola me gusta la Herramienta, en Chile no se donde encontrarla , de igual manera para hacer la cola de milano, dame información.
Luis,
MIlescraft products can be purchased by our retailer in Chili. For your reference, I have included a link to the Carpintaria website for your reference - carpintaria.cl/#
- Milescraft Inc.
Luis Alberto Burdiles
En ferretec San Pablo con Américo vespucio
Great idea, but it doesn't do auto centering. :( and the pads should be more durable, nylon perhaps.
gostaria de saber se ela faz furos centralizados em topo de madeiras de 15, 18 , 25mm?ou se só fura centralizado em 15mm
Pretty cool!
Seems like a derivative of Wolfcraft dowel jig.
what thickness of board can this jig handle?
We have not done this project yet, but it should be possible that you can do up to 2.25" in board thickness. This may take some adjustments, but it should be able to be done. We call out 1.5" in our manual for the instructions.
Many thanks. I would really like to buy this jig, but retailers in Western Australia don't seem to be able to get stock.
Peter, we do have retailers in Australia that carry this item. Perhaps you can have it delivered:
www.timbecon.com.au/joinery/biscuiting-dowelling/jointpro-dowelling-jig
www.timberbits.com/milescraft-1361-metric-jointpro
They go quickly, so just keep in touch with them and I am sure you can get your hands on one. They both order frequently.
Many thanks!
I'm considering buying one from this retailer. I am making a set of drawers where the dowels will be in the narrow sides of the timber pieces which are only about 100mm (4") wide. The video only shows the dowels being inserted into the long sides of work pieces. How effective is this system with narrow faces like this? How closely can you mount the supporting clamp to the main jig? In other words, what is the narrowest work piece that can be used while maintaining support from the support clamp?
Awesome jig but that drill need some serious attention if not a new chuck or to be chucked in the trash. The run-out is ridiculous. If you have to fight too hold it steady you should have bought a different drill.
Was thinking that watching it struggle. Even a cheapie should perform better.
I bought this & tried it at least 5 times. I don't use it anymore. Not worth the hassel.
ci sono negozi a roma it che vendono questo ????
Giancarlo,
While Milescraft does not have a retailer partner in Rome, this can be purchased from one of our retailers in France. For your reference, I have included a link to the Otelo website, where you can order the #1361 JointPro, in the metric size. www.otelo.fr/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Otelo-France-Site/fr_FR/-/EUR/Navigation-Dispatch?Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Default_OTFR&Nu=p_SkuGroup_ID&N=16037+16046&SearchEngineBar=true&Ntt=jointpro&x=0&y=0
manda para o Brasil que eu gostei muito
como o Brasil ainda é deficiente neste ramo.
This product is available in Brazil, in the metric size, #1361 JointPro. For your reference, I have included a link to the ToolsBr website, where you can purchase this product. www.toolsbr.com.br/milescraft---fixador-universal-(metrico)-de-cavilhas
É uma pena que o preço seja metade de um salario mínimo, pois o produto e bom.
Quanto custa o kits
donde se puede comprar en España?
works well on video. Not that good in real world. Buy one, use a couple of time, and since it stays in the "don't use anymore" tool drawer.
yeah I'm gonna pay £250 pounds for jessems dowel jig deeer it only costs £ 72 pound plus delivery
Whay?
This thing is a piece of crap!
We're sorry to hear that and would be happy to help! Please reach out to us at info@milescraft.com. Thanks!