Installing NEW SKINS on a VINTAGE CAMPER START to FINISH
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- This week I'm doing something I've never done before - installing new skins on my 1961 Aljo Photo Booth Vintage Camper. I've been nervous about this for a while but I'm glad I did it and I think you can do it, too!
Thanks for watching!
00:00 Intro
00:20 Why No Insulation?
03:11 Prepping for skin
08:02 First panel
10:44 Second panel
11:17 Lifting skin
12:09 Third panel
12:50 Fourth panel
14:17 Passenger side done
14:33 Roof skin
16:06 Tying down roof
20:00 Cutting roof skin
20:48 Bending edge skin
22:33 Front roof panel
24:08 Back roof panel
24:33 Holes n' windows
28:00 Sign off
Mobil Tec skin video: • Installing Upper Side ... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Another awesome video Conan! Love the lift idea from mobiltec - brilliant!
Yeah the lift really worked great. I sort of feel like I should subtitle my videos, "Things I've learned from Mobiltec." Lol
Good, helpful video Conan, thanks for posting. Looks great!
Thanks for watching! It was a big job, but the results were worth it!
A second thought, is the idea of setting the structure on the ground. Much like cars do. The purpose is to fit, in a standard size garage door. Youre pretty good at that camper construction. Keep up the good work
I guess maybe I'm not understanding what you mean fully. You can fit some campers into normal garages, but this one is too tall for most garage doors. If I had a garage that wasn't built in 1917 I would have probably considered maybe removing the springs and axle and putting on rollers to move it inside to work on it.
In short, my meaning is to modify the frame with a "C" notch to allow the camper frame to literally sit on the concrete. As some cars do. Its not practical, but for a photo booth it could offer a handicap access that otherwise would not have. Also, with the option of a drop frame camper. You might be able to fit it in a standard garage opening.. Hopefully that adds clarity. @@TrailerTrashtoTreasure
Oh I think I understand. Some campers do have a notched frame to create a kind of foot well in the middle part. It makes sense in a camper, but I find a flat floor to be preferable in a photo booth--there's no step up for people to trip over. That does mean you have to have a step for people to climb up to actually get inside the camper, but I've never had a person that wanted to use it that hasn't been able to climb inside. I do have some thoughts on step design that I might cover in a future video.
I think the way you laid the top skin, with no seams except below the windows is smart. Really will cut down on the possibility of leaks.
It's possible. Anywhere you have a seam is a possibility for a leak, but most of the time it's not the seam leaking, it's the screw holes.
Man, it makes me sad how you sourced the panels. Like, happy for you, but sad for the rest of us. I've been waiting for this video (skinning vintage camper). I'm not starting with an existing camper. I'm building from plans (scratch) and one of the last remaining questions I had was where to source material that was vintage appearing. Though, seeing how it's done, perhaps that's enough to go off of. The lift is brilliant! It looks really good!
Ha ha, well you could always contact a local sheet metal company and see if they could manufacture some panels for you out of .032" aluminum with all the appropriate locks, but I was fortunate that I could show my dad the original skins and he could replicate it from that.
Here's a list of sheet metal suppliers from a Facebook group I'm in:
ATOMICCAMPERPART.COM - Chattanooga, TN
BESTWAYTRAILER.COM - Utah
HEINTZDESIGNS.COM - Florida
HEMETVALLEYRV.NET - California
INTERSTATE METAL - Oregon
THEMETALCOMPANY.COM - Arvada, CO
AIRPARTS.COM
MACS ALUMINUM - Bristow, OK
I actually ordered the top skin from Hemet Valley RV, and the process was pretty easy, and Steve was really helpful in taking measurements and handling the freight shipping.
I'll probably just order skin in the future from a vendor that's closer to me and take a trailer to pick it up. I've known people that have had good experiences with Mac's Aluminum in Barstow and The Metal Company in Arvada.
Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Well...ok! That is one way to do it.
The Roberts 2'n'1 or similar product is a good barrier as is Tyvek.
I also use EternaBond tape under the metal & between the metals @ the seams, and all seams and edges. Don't pie cut roof edge. Straight cut and overlap the lower edge.
I try to double seal all overlaps and overlap the sides, too. Any construction technique that can minimize moisture intrusion should be employed.
I mean sure, you can put EternaBond wherever you want and it might help, but I've never seen a leak come from a seam that hasn't been damaged, and the solution there is to repair/replace the panel with the damaged seam.
I don't really think overlapping the relief cuts is going to help much with anything, and I would actually recommend getting a hand-notcher for more consistent results. The big thing on your roof overlap is that you've got all those screw holes that need the butyl seal to keep water out.
Ultimately, the original methods of construction worked pretty well, and I don't see any real benefit to doing things differently. Certainly some things were done just to make things quicker to build or cheaper to make, but the basic designs and methodology is pretty sound.
Interesting. So, I'm doing my camper to use as She Shed in my yard. I'll have power for lights but no water. Tennessee so hot in summer, cold in winter. Would you add insulation?
My wife is from northeast Tennessee!
I would probably insulate with fiberglass; although, as thin as the walls of a camper are, you can't expect too much from whatever you do.
Completely disagree on the insulation part my friend.
Go to Lowes of Home Depot and get Reflectix silver insulation.
It works amazing on stopping much of the “Radiant “ heat that cooks through the Aluminum or metal skin.
I’ve done it on 2 sprinter vans .
Before doing it. You can feel the heat from the sun cooking through the metal skin. To the point of not being able to touch it as well as intense radiant heat for about 16” down from the ceiling.
After installing the Reflectix .
Almost no radiant heat at all , and you can hold your hand on the roof metal on the inside- where before you could not.
Stop the radiant heat- keep your camper much much cooler.
I’m in the process of rebuilding a 1969 lil hobo camper from frame up, and i will use the Reflectix stuff on it as well it is super easy to install and works amazing.
I understand about Radiant heat and what it can do as I’ve been a firefighter for over 20 plus years.
Best to you all.
So my response to you is kinda complicated and would probably make a better video, so I'm just going to say that I don't necessarily disagree with you, but I still stand by what I said in this video. I'll also point out that I see most van builders installing reflectix incorrectly. Per the manufacturer's instructions, make sure to leave at least a 3/4" gap between the relectix and the skin or you lose most of it's R-value. And a final note, R-value is not the whole story here.
Thanks for watching!
How is the bottom skin attached to the top skin I see a trim looking thing-do they hook together - it’s attached some how
It's called a Pittsburgh seam. The bottom edge of the top panel is formed into sort of an S-shape, and the top edge of the bottom panel slides up into it. The top panel is stapled down along the tail of the seam and then the bottom panel covers those staples so it's water tight. The bottom panel is just stapled around its outer perimeter and along the window and door openings which get covered up when everything's installed.
Hey… I’m rebuilding a 1971 Shasta compact, and I’m almost to the point of adding the aluminum skin. After I add the insulation, should a person add a vapor barrier, and if so, what type( just the stuff you wrap a house in?)? Thanks Jeff
I've been told (by Larry at Mobiltec) that Roberts Unison underlayment is the stuff to use. It's most important under the roof wrap mostly so that any condensation that might form under the skin won't drip directly onto your insulation and then your paneling, but you can use it around the sides too. It adds a little cushioning and a little sound deadening as well, and it's translucent so you can see where you're tacking it to.
www.homedepot.com/p/ROBERTS-100-sq-ft-Unison-Premium-2-in-1-Underlayment-70-025/100541278
Thanks. Appreciate your answer and your vids.@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure
No problem, good luck!
Conan, I was going to ask you if you learned that hoist from Larry, excellent
!
Yup, another Larry bit of advice!
Sometime ago, you'd mentioned the "hi-traffic" your entryway gets and you had considered re-enforcing that area. Im not sure if I saw anything in your frame construction. Did I miss it?
I modified the chassis boards in the area to be twice as thick; although, that also meant having my welder move some of the mounts on the chassis to accommodate the wider boards.
Is there a name for the pattern on the skins? My brother in law is trying to find these for me through his work (steel welding) and is having a hard time sourcing it
Well I'm no metal worker, but the lines are called brakes because they're made with a metal brake. You'll also want a Pittsburgh seam on the bottom edge of your top panel for the lower panel to slide into and keep water out. My dad custom formed these panels from .032 aluminum through his old workplace, but if you go through a place the deals in rv siding they'll know exactly what you need, and they'll probably have standard siding types on hand.
How long did your re-skinning take?
Oh shoot, like a week maybe. It's slow going for sure. But I could see someone with some experience and without thinking about filming it doing it in two or three full days.
Can you let me know what size staples you used to attach the skin please??
You're looking for 1/4" crown staples. You don't want to use ones that are so long they'll punch through your walls, so I'd try to find the short ones, like 5/8" or 3/4" or so.
@@TrailerTrashtoTreasurethank you very much!!
You're welcome!
I have1960 Winn bumper pull ...I'm super scared to even look at it lol
Oh you got a project I'm sure, but once you know how they're built and how they come apart they're pretty easy to fix. The hardest part is keeping up the momentum to get them finished.
Is it stupid to add a new skin on top of the existing skin?
Um... I mean, not to put too fine a point on it, but yes. Lol
But seriously, I can't think of a reason why you would, or really how you even could. If you're going to go to the trouble and expense of buying new skins, do yourself a favor and take off the old ones before you put the new ones on.