I've watched many ballasting tutorials and at 70 finally decided to build the railway I have always wanted to do. I found your tutorial the easiest to follow and best presented so far. Many thanks.
Hi, thats really cool of you to say so, thanks. Good luck with your ballasting, I recently did how to ballast a turnout / point. That might help you too. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, I have enjoyed watching your ballasting video, I am glad I'm not the only one who does it this way, true the ballasting machine does save a lot of time when laying ballast ,but I always finish off in the way that you do,as I like to make my ballast look perfect. Great and relaxing to watch.
Excellent video! Thank you for making it. Also, it's so refreshing to see someone make their own adhesive mix and explain how to tell/trouble shoot a poor mixture. Thanks again!! - Alaina
You have gone to a great deal of trouble and patience to make this video. people will always suggest alternatives, but you do a magnificent job here. thank you. G.C.
Great informative video. I like the screwdriver tip to clear the rails, I also use a spoon to lightly tap the rails which also seems to help the ballast settle into the sleepers and clear any unwanted ballast from the rails.
That is the best ballasting video I have seen and will use your technique when I have finally finished laying scenic track. A great job and thanks very much for the clarity of the video. Regards, Anthony Ashley
Anthony Ashley Hi, its a fool proof method, or so I have found so far lol. Tapping the top of the rails with a tea spoon just after laying with the spreader if also a great way of settling the ballast and getting some of it of the sleepers. Dave
Fantastic. For anyone not wishing to use glue + later spray paint the track, I fixed and painted all my track prior to ballasting it without glue - ballast has mostly remained in place over the years, occasionally the higher shoulder edges need a quick tidy up with a brush where small amounts have vibrated off, but generally no regrets about breaking with convention! Main advantage has been alterations made to track layout later on, when track can just be pulled up/ballast swept up and re-used. (Where grime-coloured ballast was desired to match grimy track, I soaked ballast in pot of diluted grime paint before letting dry / laying it).
Thanks, you have an interesting technique, which clearly has its plus points. I would probably end up messing all the ballast up when I cleaned the track or started banging nearby with a hammer etc. lol.
I've been watching your videos for a while and as others have said they are helping me as I also set out on an N gauge layout. I thought this all looked so good, and the workmanship and skill really shine through.
I have been inspired by you and others to start videoing. There are two on my TH-cam channel so far. The first was a bit of trial (for me and I suspect anyone watching it). Building should start next weekend.
Hi Dave. Really enjoying your videos. Only subscribed last week but since then Ive been "Binge Watching" your episodes........ but I see that Ive got a long way to go to catch up to date though lol. Very good commentary and I do chuckle at your "Mini Rants" at the lack of sense of model manufacturers (all very true by the way) and especially love the natural little quips you add about how you've done something or what a nightmare its been. Brilliant. Keep up the good work and I hope to watch the other 50 videos asap.
Hi Dave, just fantastic your tips are pricless! you really are a purfectionist which is great, and to know the timescale helps to understand that it can not be rushed, please keep up the good work! Thanks again Dave Regards Tim,
Spot on Dave. Just one little tip for the future, certainly applies to N but no reason why it shouldn't to N....Put track pins NEXT to the sleepers and not through them. At the end most folk remove the pins as they do tend to look wrong, and by putting the pins next to the sleeper and bending them over the actual sleeper (N gauge pins are probably best to use) when removed they do not leave a hole in the sleeper. Cheers, Bob
Wow! that ballasting tool is fantastic. Will get one. Interesting how people use N gauge ballast on OO layouts. Perhaps I should use Z gauge stuff on my future N layout.
Hi Dave! Rather than mess around with PVA and water which can cause clumping or floating ballast have you tried Johnson's Klear? Use it straight from the bottle in your dropper (no need to mist the track first with water!) and allow to dry which is pretty rapid! Saves a lot of time which is always a help when ballasting. Also a small point about coating the sleepers with PVA. PVA and plastic don't make for good companions so could cause problems with lifting when you start weathering as I've found out to my cost in the past. EXcellent series and looking forward to the next episode!
I wondered if adding a bit of dark acryrllic paint to the "mix" for the bit that goes down the four foot, would take some of the pain out of the weathering. Ready made diesel staining so to speak.. Great vids by the way, bingeing on them to catch up!
As always great video Dave, thanks. I'm in awe of the level of detail you go to with all your modelling and value the extra info you provide, like websites you use, part numbers etc. Have you put these on a pdf etc. as a reference? Limited selection here in NZ so great to visit these sites. Now it's getting late here so my eyes may be deceiving me, however at the 30min mark is that a friendly face to the right of frame? Cuppa tea time?
Great video. I thought mine was dry after 3 days and tried to clean off the ties and it was still wet. I made a bloody mess. The basement is too damp. It takes about 5 days to completely dry. I really don't like doing it but it has to be done. You definitely have more patients than I do for it.
An excellent video on ballasting track. have used a syringe and found the application to be jerky, a feast or famine. I use 50/50 mix and have found it to be satisfactory provided you ensure sufficient mix is used and soaking down through the ballast sides. I am working my way through your videos. Great work Dave
+Bruce Henderson Hi Bruce, very nice of you to take the time to comment. Thanks very much for your kind words. Hope you enjoy the rest of my videos. I try to do 1 or 2 a month, depending on time and progress. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, I am resurrecting my layout that has been idle for over 25 years. I have re-laid the track, as the old sponge foam underlay disappeared into dust. My track is a mixture of steel track as well as nickel silver. Where I had ballasted back then some of the steel track has shown minor signs of rust from the ballasting process. Is there an alternative to water based PVA for the steel track sections. Also I would have liked to see the track in your excellent video a few days later after it had dried.
Dave I've use the b&q one like you mixed it but it's taking a while to set but the shed I've built even though insulated is quite cool, I've put my calor heater in there for an hour to see if it makes a difference
Hi Dave Great instructional video. One of the best ballast ones ice seen. I'm gonna be starting ballasting my modern layout soon and will use your technique. On a different note I'm using scalescenes kits too but can you tell me what spray you use to seal it once you've printed it off? Cheers Look forward to next video Keith
Hi Dave. I am not currently a model railway hobbyist but am very much enjoying your layout and videos. I wonder if I could ask some advice - I am using ballast for some scenic work on a Scalextrics layout, have used the same Homebase PVA and water, though I confess to not measuring volumes, but due to the layout being in the loft (as many are) I am struggling to get it to dry as its so cold! If neat PVA is painted onto the boards I find the ballast finish is too flat, but if mixed and spraying I find it too wet and not drying? Any thoughts (other than putting a heater up there for a while??) Many thanks, Mark
Great Video Dave, i'm starting my layout and thinking of using a bit of Black ink in the mix to pick out the detail of the balast, and im toying with the idea of using Rowney Acrilyic Red Earth ink for rust on the rails rather than straight paint, have you tried the ink for rust on your rails and if so what were the results like? i've used it on buildings and the effect is really good but not tried it yet on bare metal. Regards Steve
Hi Dave, Great video.... Did you have any problems with the cork expanding? I have previously had this issue and wondered if i may have added to much water?
Hi, I show you more in this video I’ve linked which especially show you how to do a point. :-) You get quicker the more you Ballast. :-) th-cam.com/video/-Wyy-xjW25g/w-d-xo.html
how did you make your platforms,,there very good,,It is better to use small paint brush,,and paint your undiluted pva,everywere you want ballast to stick,,after dry ,,your can lightly brush away,any unwanted..then you can dilute pva,and use your spreader,,it looks more realistic.,yours looks to level with the sleepers..Your system is for modern concrete sleeper..
Hi Dave, being new to modelling I find your videos very informative and helpful. Please continue passing on the knowledge. I've recently started a new layout and made the mistake of using the foam underlay, it's ok but not good. So i've decide to take it up and change the track bed, the question is should I use cork or the Woodlands scenic? Should I glue or nail? Obviously the cork covers well when ballasting but will the more solid scenic work as well? Any feedback would be appreciated before I waste more cash....
Hi!, both will work....I use cork as its very versatile and reasonably cheap. I am not too familiar with the woodland scenics stuff, but it may be expensive if doing a lot of track? I do not glue the cork or track down. I pin it. Once ballasted its all rock solid in place anyway. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, thanks for the feedback. Its not a large set up about 40 feet of track on a 6x4 foot board. Probably go for the cork 3/16" ? to reduce the noise? The problems I had with the foam stuff was mainly on the cross overs / points despite leaving the rail pins with space to move. As you suggested I will do a test rail first, after watching you video again. Please keep up the video's it just shows what can be done, only wish I'd asked first before buying.... cheers Malcolm
Hi. I've not tried that underlay. I prefer the look and texture of the ballast chippings. However both methods will have their benefits and their drawbacks. Cheers. Dave
@@DeanPark thanks. you have probably seen what I have started on your FB group. I have to put the point actuators in, (some minor track lifting required first as I didnt quite know where I was going to put the points) then lay down the ballasting
good tutorial dave...i uploaded a video last night but had to do it in two parts as youtube will only let me do 15min videos for some very odd reason. terry
Hi Dave just some info on the ballast shoulder , in real life it is there to cast a shadow onto the rail so it will not get to hot in sunny weather and the warp . Yes honest .
DaveClass47 How would that work? Surely sunrise or sunset may be the only times a shadow could possibly be cast, and then the sun wouldn't be that strong. Surely!
Absolute rubbish. Who told you that? The shoulder is there simply to prevent lateral movement of the track! That's why it's at the sides and called a "shoulder"! In the age of information, ignorance is a choice.
Hi, yes. As does all PVA. Don't worry about it looking white and milky...it will dry clear. If its cold where you are ballasting then it may take 3-4 days to go clear and set....in January it took my ballast 5 days to harden. Jut be patient and leave it. Cheers. Dave
That's pretty sweet. What if you colored that to look like a metal box, somehow attached it to a "work car" and pulled it down the track like the real thing?! haha pretty cool
Why not paint and weather the track before ballast?? I do it this way so there are no worries about paint getting on the ballast. Why use a PVA glue and not just plain white glue??? I do!!! Ballast tools are a giant wast of money...
Plain white glue? - is that not another name for PVA. What brand is this "white glue"? PVA glue is also a general purpose glue. PVA is the glue recommended by all of the model rail magazines I have seen, inc most of the 'how to ballast' tutorials I have read and watched on youtube. Also, the reason I weather after the ballast is laid is that the ballast also gets dirty in real life. When is the last time you saw dirty sleepers, oil stains, rusty track etc sitting on pristine clean ballast? If you have seen this then its certainly not on British Railways. I work from photos of ballasted and weathered track. Finally, Ballast tools are not a waste of money in my opinion. I use them as it give a consistent flow of ballast. Unlike other 'tea spoon' laying methods. I would be keen to see your results to compare and perhaps learn something new, do you have a video uploaded of your layout?
I've watched many ballasting tutorials and at 70 finally decided to build the railway I have always wanted to do. I found your tutorial the easiest to follow and best presented so far. Many thanks.
Hi, thats really cool of you to say so, thanks. Good luck with your ballasting, I recently did how to ballast a turnout / point. That might help you too. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave,
I have enjoyed watching your ballasting video, I am glad I'm not the only one who does it this way, true the ballasting machine does save a lot of time when laying ballast ,but I always finish off in the way that you do,as I like to make my ballast look perfect. Great and relaxing to watch.
Cheers. We all have our own methods don’t we? :-) Dave
Exceptional video, first class. I love those neat ballast edges, a perfectionist at work. A kindred spirit
A pleasure to watch! Very useful.
Many thanks. :-)
Excellent video! Thank you for making it. Also, it's so refreshing to see someone make their own adhesive mix and explain how to tell/trouble shoot a poor mixture. Thanks again!! - Alaina
ARR Hodge hi, thanks. So glad you found it helpful. :-)
You have gone to a great deal of trouble and patience to make this video. people will always suggest alternatives, but you do a magnificent job here. thank you. G.C.
Great informative video. I like the screwdriver tip to clear the rails, I also use a spoon to lightly tap the rails which also seems to help the ballast settle into the sleepers and clear any unwanted ballast from the rails.
That is the best ballasting video I have seen and will use your technique when I have finally finished laying scenic track. A great job and thanks very much for the clarity of the video.
Regards,
Anthony Ashley
Anthony Ashley Hi, its a fool proof method, or so I have found so far lol. Tapping the top of the rails with a tea spoon just after laying with the spreader if also a great way of settling the ballast and getting some of it of the sleepers. Dave
Fantastic. For anyone not wishing to use glue + later spray paint the track, I fixed and painted all my track prior to ballasting it without glue - ballast has mostly remained in place over the years, occasionally the higher shoulder edges need a quick tidy up with a brush where small amounts have vibrated off, but generally no regrets about breaking with convention! Main advantage has been alterations made to track layout later on, when track can just be pulled up/ballast swept up and re-used. (Where grime-coloured ballast was desired to match grimy track, I soaked ballast in pot of diluted grime paint before letting dry / laying it).
Thanks, you have an interesting technique, which clearly has its plus points. I would probably end up messing all the ballast up when I cleaned the track or started banging nearby with a hammer etc. lol.
Dave that was a superb tutorial video mate, one of he best I've seen, given me loads of ideas to help and hopefully improve my own Andy
Thanks so much for the excellent tutorial. I've watched a lot of these on ballasting and you covered so points that others didn't. Very helpful.
That's great to know...thanks for getting in touch! Dave
Very good presentation ,,,, will come in useful when I get around to ballasting,, many thanks
I've been watching your videos for a while and as others have said they are helping me as I also set out on an N gauge layout. I thought this all looked so good, and the workmanship and skill really shine through.
Hi Stephen, thanks so much for that feedback and I am so glad its been of help. All the best with your n gauge layout, any videos? Cheers. Dave
I have been inspired by you and others to start videoing. There are two on my TH-cam channel so far. The first was a bit of trial (for me and I suspect anyone watching it). Building should start next weekend.
Stephen Humphreys Just watched and subscribed! Thanks. Dave
Hi Dave. Really enjoying your videos. Only subscribed last week but since then Ive been "Binge Watching" your episodes........ but I see that Ive got a long way to go to catch up to date though lol. Very good commentary and I do chuckle at your "Mini Rants" at the lack of sense of model manufacturers (all very true by the way) and especially love the natural little quips you add about how you've done something or what a nightmare its been. Brilliant. Keep up the good work and I hope to watch the other 50 videos asap.
This is a very detailed and excellent ballast system. Great video.
Very nice tutorial ballasting looks fantastic!
Thanks Dave. Really useful video.
Excellent tutorial. Many thanks.
Nice work. Top tip, paint the rails first with rusty rail paint :-)
thank you Dave i can now attempt the ballast think I'm going to be doing it a long time!Better get started.
Great video Dave I like your how to's video been helping me with wiring points.
Kev
Great tutorial video Dave. My opinion on your ballasting is as it was before great work. Cheers, Matt.
Hi Dave, just fantastic your tips are pricless! you really are a purfectionist which is great, and to know the timescale helps to understand that it can not be rushed, please keep up the good work!
Thanks again Dave
Regards
Tim,
Spot on Dave. Just one little tip for the future, certainly applies to N but no reason why it shouldn't to N....Put track pins NEXT to the sleepers and not through them. At the end most folk remove the pins as they do tend to look wrong, and by putting the pins next to the sleeper and bending them over the actual sleeper (N gauge pins are probably best to use) when removed they do not leave a hole in the sleeper. Cheers, Bob
Good tip! I don't notice mine to much as they dull down when weathered. But it would certainly look better without them. Dave
Wow! that ballasting tool is fantastic. Will get one. Interesting how people use N gauge ballast on OO layouts. Perhaps I should use Z gauge stuff on my future N layout.
Very Good Dave.
Hi Dave! Rather than mess around with PVA and water which can cause clumping or floating ballast have you tried Johnson's Klear? Use it straight from the bottle in your dropper (no need to mist the track first with water!) and allow to dry which is pretty rapid! Saves a lot of time which is always a help when ballasting. Also a small point about coating the sleepers with PVA. PVA and plastic don't make for good companions so could cause problems with lifting when you start weathering as I've found out to my cost in the past. EXcellent series and looking forward to the next episode!
Info noted, thanks. I will watch out for the pva issue when I weather. Thanks. Dave
I wish I had seen this when I ballasted my track last year!
Thank you very much! I will try to use this technic to built my layout.
Hi, glad you found it helpful. Its not difficult when you get started!
Thanks for the video very exact as usual. You did not mention the mix for the roof dirt. Is it 60 40 the same as the grime ?
I wondered if adding a bit of dark acryrllic paint to the "mix" for the bit that goes down the four foot, would take some of the pain out of the weathering. Ready made diesel staining so to speak.. Great vids by the way, bingeing on them to catch up!
As always great video Dave, thanks. I'm in awe of the level of detail you go to with all your modelling and value the extra info you provide, like websites you use, part numbers etc. Have you put these on a pdf etc. as a reference? Limited selection here in NZ so great to visit these sites. Now it's getting late here so my eyes may be deceiving me, however at the 30min mark is that a friendly face to the right of frame? Cuppa tea time?
"Great Work, Well Done!"
Great video. I thought mine was dry after 3 days and tried to clean off the ties and it was still wet. I made a bloody mess. The basement is too damp. It takes about 5 days to completely dry. I really don't like doing it but it has to be done. You definitely have more patients than I do for it.
scape the side of are rusting old paint tin and weather the side of the track and anying were else to Bing out the rustic look.
An excellent video on ballasting track. have used a syringe and found the application to be jerky, a feast or famine. I use 50/50 mix and have found it to be satisfactory provided you ensure sufficient mix is used and soaking down through the ballast sides.
I am working my way through your videos. Great work Dave
+Bruce Henderson Hi Bruce, very nice of you to take the time to comment. Thanks very much for your kind words. Hope you enjoy the rest of my videos. I try to do 1 or 2 a month, depending on time and progress. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, I am resurrecting my layout that has been idle for over 25 years. I have re-laid the track, as the old sponge foam underlay disappeared into dust. My track is a mixture of steel track as well as nickel silver. Where I had ballasted back then some of the steel track has shown minor signs of rust from the ballasting process. Is there an alternative to water based PVA for the steel track sections. Also I would have liked to see the track in your excellent video a few days later after it had dried.
Nice tip mate,cheers chris
Dave I've use the b&q one like you mixed it but it's taking a while to set but the shed I've built even though insulated is quite cool, I've put my calor heater in there for an hour to see if it makes a difference
Hi Dave
Great instructional video. One of the best ballast ones ice seen. I'm gonna be starting ballasting my modern layout soon and will use your technique.
On a different note I'm using scalescenes kits too but can you tell me what spray you use to seal it once you've printed it off? Cheers
Look forward to next video
Keith
Skoosh! A fine Scottish word.
haha! it is that! ;-)
Hi Dave. I am not currently a model railway hobbyist but am very much enjoying your layout and videos. I wonder if I could ask some advice - I am using ballast for some scenic work on a Scalextrics layout, have used the same Homebase PVA and water, though I confess to not measuring volumes, but due to the layout being in the loft (as many are) I am struggling to get it to dry as its so cold! If neat PVA is painted onto the boards I find the ballast finish is too flat, but if mixed and spraying I find it too wet and not drying? Any thoughts (other than putting a heater up there for a while??) Many thanks, Mark
Great Video Dave, i'm starting my layout and thinking of using a bit of Black ink in the mix to pick out the detail of the balast, and im toying with the idea of using Rowney Acrilyic Red Earth ink for rust on the rails rather than straight paint, have you tried the ink for rust on your rails and if so what were the results like? i've used it on buildings and the effect is really good but not tried it yet on bare metal.
Regards
Steve
Hi Dave, Great video.... Did you have any problems with the cork expanding? I have previously had this issue and wondered if i may have added to much water?
Thanks a brilliant video, I am using n gauge so does the same apply . I am worried as my layout folds from a wall.
yeah same applies....if its glued properly then nothing will shift it!! really secure. Dave
do you still ballast this way or have you any learning since at all? Also, any tips for ballasting points?
Hi, I show you more in this video I’ve linked which especially show you how to do a point. :-)
You get quicker the more you Ballast. :-)
th-cam.com/video/-Wyy-xjW25g/w-d-xo.html
how did you make your platforms,,there very good,,It is better to use small paint brush,,and paint your undiluted pva,everywere you want ballast to stick,,after dry ,,your can lightly brush away,any unwanted..then you can dilute pva,and use your spreader,,it looks more realistic.,yours looks to level with the sleepers..Your system is for modern concrete sleeper..
Good tip. Thanks! My system is kind of for an era when the concrete sleeper was replacing the wooden. The rest of my layout will be concrete sleeper.
Hi Dave, being new to modelling I find your videos very informative and helpful. Please continue passing on the knowledge. I've recently started a new layout and made the mistake of using the foam underlay, it's ok but not good. So i've decide to take it up and change the track bed, the question is should I use cork or the Woodlands scenic? Should I glue or nail? Obviously the cork covers well when ballasting but will the more solid scenic work as well? Any feedback would be appreciated before I waste more cash....
Hi!, both will work....I use cork as its very versatile and reasonably cheap. I am not too familiar with the woodland scenics stuff, but it may be expensive if doing a lot of track? I do not glue the cork or track down. I pin it. Once ballasted its all rock solid in place anyway. Cheers. Dave
Hi Dave, thanks for the feedback. Its not a large set up about 40 feet of track on a 6x4 foot board.
Probably go for the cork 3/16" ? to reduce the noise? The problems I had with the foam stuff was mainly on the cross overs / points despite leaving the rail pins with space to move. As you suggested I will do a test rail first, after watching you video again. Please keep up the video's it just shows what can be done, only wish I'd asked first before buying.... cheers Malcolm
Great video Dave, very helpful. Do you have any views on using Guagemaster ballasted underlay as an alterntive?
Hi. I've not tried that underlay. I prefer the look and texture of the ballast chippings. However both methods will have their benefits and their drawbacks. Cheers. Dave
what would you suggest for N-gauge track?
Use fine grade ballast. The same technique for that.
@@DeanPark thanks.
you have probably seen what I have started on your FB group. I have to put the point actuators in, (some minor track lifting required first as I didnt quite know where I was going to put the points) then lay down the ballasting
I'm thinking about building a layout soon. It will be modern image and was wondering what 00 track to use? Cheers
+TomCrippsTrains Hi, I use Peco code 100 flexible track and code 100 electro-frog turnouts. Hope that helps. Cant wait to see your layout. Dave
good tutorial dave...i uploaded a video last night but had to do it in two parts as youtube will only let me do 15min videos for some very odd reason.
terry
Hi Terry,
That's odd? Dunno what youtube are up to sometimes. I'll check out your latest video to see what you're up to!
Thanks for comment.
Dave
hey Glebe Road Junction support.google.com/youtube/answer/71673?hl=en Thoroughly enjoy all your videos both of you, inspiring me every time :D
U can increase ur time limit, Google it n it wil take u to the page ;)
well it normally lets me do any length video normally just not this time.im off to google it now.
Yeh, its summat to do with havin to verify things???? I think :D
6:37 when ur track ain't working and ur angry 😂
What thickness of cork do you use on your layout and in this video?
Kristoffer Cummings hi, for the mainlines I use 1/8th inch (2.5mm ish). For stations, depots etc I use 1/16th inch, or 1mm.
Hi Dave just some info on the ballast shoulder , in real life it is there to cast a shadow onto the rail so it will not get to hot in sunny weather and the warp . Yes honest .
Wow...really? lol.
Amazing, the engineers think of everything ;-)
Cheers
Dave
Is that a lie?
no idea! lol, sounds an interesting idea.
DaveClass47
How would that work? Surely sunrise or sunset may be the only times a shadow could possibly be cast, and then the sun wouldn't be that strong. Surely!
Absolute rubbish. Who told you that?
The shoulder is there simply to prevent lateral movement of the track! That's why it's at the sides and called a "shoulder"!
In the age of information, ignorance is a choice.
does the Homebase PVA glue dry clear
Hi, yes. As does all PVA. Don't worry about it looking white and milky...it will dry clear. If its cold where you are ballasting then it may take 3-4 days to go clear and set....in January it took my ballast 5 days to harden. Jut be patient and leave it. Cheers. Dave
Anderson French door hing adjustment
EH? LOL
That's pretty sweet. What if you colored that to look like a metal box, somehow attached it to a "work car" and pulled it down the track like the real thing?! haha pretty cool
a green what? I cant understand you?
The metal tracks turned green when I used the evostick pva.
Why not paint and weather the track before ballast?? I do it this way so there are no worries about paint getting on the ballast. Why use a PVA glue and not just plain white glue??? I do!!! Ballast tools are a giant wast of money...
Plain white glue? - is that not another name for PVA. What brand is this "white glue"? PVA glue is also a general purpose glue. PVA is the glue recommended by all of the model rail magazines I have seen, inc most of the 'how to ballast' tutorials I have read and watched on youtube. Also, the reason I weather after the ballast is laid is that the ballast also gets dirty in real life. When is the last time you saw dirty sleepers, oil stains, rusty track etc sitting on pristine clean ballast? If you have seen this then its certainly not on British Railways. I work from photos of ballasted and weathered track. Finally, Ballast tools are not a waste of money in my opinion. I use them as it give a consistent flow of ballast. Unlike other 'tea spoon' laying methods. I would be keen to see your results to compare and perhaps learn something new, do you have a video uploaded of your layout?
what ballast are you using
see 1min 40 into the video!
your brush tamping does more harm than good... its lifting the ballast out