Jimmy you make the best videos for DIY. You talk so smoothly and clearly,very easy to understand. You saved me few times and I greatly appreciate your help.
Wow, thank you. I am having clunking noise when turning the steering wheel side to side in my new (to me) 2010 accord and I think it's either the tie rods or ball joints. So this video was super helpful, thank you.
good approach how to check the suspension component I, think this will work with any car when u check for noises front and back thanks for sharing really good info as always.
I feel like any car that's 10 years old esp if it's 100k miles on the NE salty roads. The sway bar links, sway bar bushings, ball joints, control arm bushings (replace the front pair), tire rods outter always go bad. I would say if you can replace all parts after 100k. This is for safety also. I just did this on our 2010 Camry i4. And got a full alignment. Night and day. Car has roughly 200K miles.
This is an excellent video, but add a spotlight to the dark area in which you're working so that we can see the parts far more clearly. Thank you. Subscribed.
Hi Jim, I often turn to your videos for guidance on jobs that I have never done and they are always a big help. When you finished the re-assembly, you said that you will "get it out the door". But, wouldn't a repair involving control arm and strut removal require a wheel alignment? Thanks.
..I really feel much better after watching this video, now I know just what it takes to replace the part(s) on the front end of the car. Now, here's the where the road meets the rubber, how much $$$$ is this gonna cost!??
i usually just take the upper strut nuts off pry the stut down on the lower a-arm and slightly out and it gives enough room to get the upper control arm bolts out
Hi could you confirm if you had to separate the strut from the lower wishbone. In other words were you able get enough clearance by just removing the 17mm bolt on the lower wishbone that allowed the strut to drop enough to get the access required? The other point was can knocking occur at the 3 inch bolt joints as well as a faulty ball joint in the upper control arm?
I bought new struts, new mounts and bought compressor and did the job my self. After I went for a drive test, my problem was finish, except now, there a boing noise on the driver side when I'm turning to the max...Its a kind of metal coil sound...Maybe I put the coil upside down, will check it out. Any comments?
Can the upper ball joint bring bad cause the cv axel to break? We’ve replaced the front passenger cv axel 4 times in the past year on my 2004 Acura MDX. Makes a terrible noise while accelerating and turning at the same time. Please help. Can’t understand why the cv axels keep breaking.
I had the same issue with my 2007 Acura TSX when the turning to the right. I let the car sit overnight and tried it again while the fluids were cold. I opened the hood and the checked the power steering fluid. It was dark and had air bubbles. I immediately bought and drain and then replaced the power steering fluid. Later took the car for a test drive and noise was not apparent. Tried again when fluids were cold and no noise. I hope this helps.
for best practice the bushing nuts should be fully tightened when the car is on the ground ,otherwise that bottom and top bushings will be working preloaded!
Hi Jimmy, thank you for the videos. My car makes a small tapping noise in the front suspension area only at low speeds and bumpy roads. That is all the info I have but what do you think it can be?
@@jimthecarguy ,, I left the mechanic shop earlier today and he had to fit a spacer between the ball joint and adjoining component. He said the ball joint wasn't the exact same one. I had some noise over bumps before. But now my car is riding quite bumpy. Any suggestions and is the spacer he put in OK ?
Unfortunately, not the ballpoints on our 2008 accord, nor is it anything else you mentioned. Already replaced the lower ball joints, wheel bearings and lower control arms. Must be the axle or maybe a motor or trans mount. Makes a clunking sound going slowly through parking lots when you accelerated or brake and when going over speed bumps or variations in the road only at very low speed, meaning low load on the drivetrain/powertrain.
Can you follow up on the solution to this? I have the same issue. Mostly happens at slow speed in parking lots with light bumps. All bushings and joints appear solid. I already replaced cv axle and LCA and stabilizer links and struts are pretty new. Same exact issue.
Yes but in this case you can't preload since the strut is in the way. In this case you woukd measure the distance from the top of the chassis to a spot on the old upper control arm before removing it and use that to match the new one. It's the best you can do get the preload height on the new upper control arm so the bushings on it don't wear out prematurely from installing at the wrong natural ride height.
@@jimthecarguy thank you sir but i changed the wrong axle thinking the vibration was coming from the passenger side when in fact it was coming from the driver side. And i also changed the ball joints because the wheel had a lot of movement when i jacked it up. Thanks for the information
It's supposed to swivel, it's a ball socket, and when they get broke in they swivel easy. It's that up and down movement you don't want. If you have doubts then just replace it, they generally don't cost that much anyways. Just make sure you have it realigned asap, a bad toe in or toe out will chew a tire up quick.
Replace the sway bar end links along with the sway bar pair of bushings. Make sure to grease the bushing before installing. I just did a whole front end refresh. Got it all from 1A auto. Was pricey but car will be good for another 100K noise free.
I'm hearing a whirring noise coming from my tire. It doesn't change turning either way. And Im getting a lot of outside tread wear. What is causing this?
....For the last months or so, I've been getting this clanky-d-clanky sound wherever I release my foot from the brakes, and a clunking sound coming from the transmission whenever I put the car in gear..more like a clickclunkpunit..
I had 2003 accord with the same this type of issued, take me a lot of work to get it done, easy but lots work. I think honda speed up faster and quieter and more smoother than toyota but lots suspension and bushing control, one broke fix rightaway or all will broke as well.
You didn’t have to take out the strut. Remove wishbone from bottom of strut, grab your 14 ratchet wrench work both sides & then move the strut forward it will give you clearance to remove and install bolts back. All it is is 1/2 inch if that. Work smarter not harder
The smart ideas don’t normally come out as the most intuitive solution. I took pride for changing a ball joint on Camry with a separator when everybody says there isn’t enough space without removing the axel first including Toyota manual. It reduces a Toyota quoted 2 hr job to 30 minutes.
Sorry for my ignorance but how are you moving the strut forward. Can I assume you are taking the 17mm out on the lower wishbone and dropping the strut after releasing thev strut top bolts? Thanks for clarifying
The only thing you missed was telling us what noise would each part make if it was bad. Because I’ve been going through videos trying to match the noise I hear in my car with what the problem could be and so far I have not gotten any answers.
+Edgardo Amado Check out these videos for CRV.th-cam.com/video/SZSAoAgGDAY/w-d-xo.html ,th-cam.com/video/3jhvIItGYJo/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/DTC2vqVHzV0/w-d-xo.html
Jimmy you make the best videos for DIY. You talk so smoothly and clearly,very easy to understand. You saved me few times and I greatly appreciate your help.
Thanks for posting and Happy new year!
6:55 "it's a pain in the rear end" He means it's a pain in the front end.
Thank you for taking time for the video. Appreciate it.
I'm happy to help. Watch for the next free tool giveaway coming soon.
Wow, thank you. I am having clunking noise when turning the steering wheel side to side in my new (to me) 2010 accord and I think it's either the tie rods or ball joints. So this video was super helpful, thank you.
Axles can be a culprit. Can't rule those out.
Great video!
good approach how to check the suspension component I, think this will work with any car when u check for noises front and back thanks for sharing really good info as always.
+j georges Yes you can use this on any car front or rear.
I feel like any car that's 10 years old esp if it's 100k miles on the NE salty roads. The sway bar links, sway bar bushings, ball joints, control arm bushings (replace the front pair), tire rods outter always go bad. I would say if you can replace all parts after 100k. This is for safety also. I just did this on our 2010 Camry i4. And got a full alignment. Night and day. Car has roughly 200K miles.
This is an excellent video, but add a spotlight to the dark area in which you're working so that we can see the parts far more clearly. Thank you. Subscribed.
Hi Jim, I often turn to your videos for guidance on jobs that I have never done and they are always a big help. When you finished the re-assembly, you said that you will "get it out the door". But, wouldn't a repair involving control arm and strut removal require a wheel alignment? Thanks.
Yes that is a good point. I don't do wheel alignments and had to bring it to a friend shop to finish .Thank you for watching
great job jim! but, whats the torque spec on that.......
Great video budski
very helpful 👍
+Victor Salazar Thank you for watching.
6:57 more obvious than my interview voice 🤣
..I really feel much better after watching this video, now I know just what it takes to replace the part(s) on the front end of the car. Now, here's the where the road meets the rubber, how much $$$$ is this gonna cost!??
Is it the same for the intermediate shaft on a 2009 honda accord passenger side ?
i usually just take the upper strut nuts off pry the stut down on the lower a-arm and slightly out and it gives enough room to get the upper control arm bolts out
+UBBERTANKER Your correct some times you can squeeze it out.
You the man!
Thanks for watching.
Hi could you confirm if you had to separate the strut from the lower wishbone. In other words were you able get enough clearance by just removing the 17mm bolt on the lower wishbone that allowed the strut to drop enough to get the access required?
The other point was can knocking occur at the 3 inch bolt joints as well as a faulty ball joint in the upper control arm?
I bought new struts, new mounts and bought compressor and did the job my self. After I went for a drive test, my problem was finish, except now, there a boing noise on the driver side when I'm turning to the max...Its a kind of metal coil sound...Maybe I put the coil upside down, will check it out. Any comments?
Can the upper ball joint bring bad cause the cv axel to break? We’ve replaced the front passenger cv axel 4 times in the past year on my 2004 Acura MDX. Makes a terrible noise while accelerating and turning at the same time. Please help. Can’t understand why the cv axels keep breaking.
I had the same issue with my 2007 Acura TSX when the turning to the right. I let the car sit overnight and tried it again while the fluids were cold. I opened the hood and the checked the power steering fluid. It was dark and had air bubbles. I immediately bought and drain and then replaced the power steering fluid. Later took the car for a test drive and noise was not apparent. Tried again when fluids were cold and no noise. I hope this helps.
Kevin Wilson thank you for stopping by the shop and your input
Can a bad axle cause clunking over bumps too ?
for best practice the bushing nuts should be fully tightened when the car is on the ground ,otherwise that bottom and top bushings will be working preloaded!
Hi Jimmy, thank you for the videos. My car makes a small tapping noise in the front suspension area only at low speeds and bumpy roads. That is all the info I have but what do you think it can be?
Check the sway bar links first.Thanks for watching.
@@jimthecarguy ,, I left the mechanic shop earlier today and he had to fit a spacer between the ball joint and adjoining component. He said the ball joint wasn't the exact same one. I had some noise over bumps before. But now my car is riding quite bumpy. Any suggestions and is the spacer he put in OK ?
Some people say that you should tight the lower wishbone bolt with the car on the ground??
Hi, do you have to change all the upper arm or you can change just the ball joint? Thanks!
+Djack I've run into problems trying to just replace the ball joint.i would recommend replacing the control arm.Jim
Thanks man!
How many miles were on it?
Would a bad bush cause grinding when turning? I'm thinking it's power steering pump
Thank you for watching
I have some okay in my back sway bar, How can I fix that?
Play* in my back sway bar
Unfortunately, not the ballpoints on our 2008 accord, nor is it anything else you mentioned. Already replaced the lower ball joints, wheel bearings and lower control arms. Must be the axle or maybe a motor or trans mount. Makes a clunking sound going slowly through parking lots when you accelerated or brake and when going over speed bumps or variations in the road only at very low speed, meaning low load on the drivetrain/powertrain.
Can you follow up on the solution to this? I have the same issue. Mostly happens at slow speed in parking lots with light bumps. All bushings and joints appear solid. I already replaced cv axle and LCA and stabilizer links and struts are pretty new. Same exact issue.
What would cause a creaking when turning the steering wheel back and forth ?
i would imagine the ball joint, lower one. I had a neon that did that, badly worn ball joint cause it.
I wonder why he did not remove the upper control arms from the anchor bolts inside the engine bay?
If you do it that way on the Honda Accord, it disrupts the flux capacitor and you might get left stranded in another dimension.
Do you need to preload the upper control arm as you would when replacing the lower or does it just follow the lower?
Thank you for watching.
Yeah, pre load before torquing
Yes but in this case you can't preload since the strut is in the way. In this case you woukd measure the distance from the top of the chassis to a spot on the old upper control arm before removing it and use that to match the new one. It's the best you can do get the preload height on the new upper control arm so the bushings on it don't wear out prematurely from installing at the wrong natural ride height.
My 2009 Honda Accord has the same issue I already change the link bar and bushing now what could it be
I would check the axle maybe. Axles click and can become worse over time.
The upper ball on the stabilizer link did have play when you tested it.
Live stream Sunday night at 7:00 PM on jimthecarguy.I hope you can stop by.
Do upper ball joints on honda cause vibrations when accelerating at high speeds??? I tried to change the axle already
Usually no unless they are very bad. Did you check the tire balancing? I'm happy to help. Thanks for watching
@@jimthecarguy thank you sir but i changed the wrong axle thinking the vibration was coming from the passenger side when in fact it was coming from the driver side. And i also changed the ball joints because the wheel had a lot of movement when i jacked it up. Thanks for the information
I’ve complained to numerous mechanics re car noise, typical reply, just keep driving, part breaks, then we know what to replace
No a good idea. I think you may want to find a different mechanic.
I have a kinda rattling noise in the back of my car n a clicking sound from the front it clicks twice wen reversing
Wat do u think is the problem with my car?
My outer tie rod I can grab it and twist it very easily there's absolutely no resistance could it be bad
It's supposed to swivel, it's a ball socket, and when they get broke in they swivel easy. It's that up and down movement you don't want. If you have doubts then just replace it, they generally don't cost that much anyways. Just make sure you have it realigned asap, a bad toe in or toe out will chew a tire up quick.
I replaced all the parts mentioned and it's still making the same noise. What else can it be?
Try changing all motor mounts ,I have same situation and it fixed
Replace the sway bar end links along with the sway bar pair of bushings. Make sure to grease the bushing before installing. I just did a whole front end refresh. Got it all from 1A auto. Was pricey but car will be good for another 100K noise free.
I'm hearing a whirring noise coming from my tire. It doesn't change turning either way. And Im getting a lot of outside tread wear. What is causing this?
wheel bearing, but I'm a girl, IDK.
@@juniemoon girl or not your more likely correct, a wheel bearing will make that kind of noise.
A little late but the heat shield is probably rubbing on your rotor.
Jim, what's the name of your company and address?
Its 445 Do It Your Damn Self St
Don't be Lazy, VA, 22222
how much did you charge to this job?
+Brooke Pendergraft To replace the control arm and ball joint should be around $300.00 per side
....For the last months or so, I've been getting this clanky-d-clanky sound wherever I release my foot from the brakes, and a clunking sound coming from the transmission whenever I put the car in gear..more like a clickclunkpunit..
Bad engine mount
I had 2003 accord with the same this type of issued, take me a lot of work to get it done, easy but lots work. I think honda speed up faster and quieter and more smoother than toyota but lots suspension and bushing control, one broke fix rightaway or all will broke as well.
Thank you for stopping by the shop.
yeeeah gotta turn off that image stabilization, i feel woozy
+SilentServiceCode Thank you I will.
You didn’t have to take out the strut. Remove wishbone from bottom of strut, grab your 14 ratchet wrench work both sides & then move the strut forward it will give you clearance to remove and install bolts back. All it is is 1/2 inch if that. Work smarter not harder
The smart ideas don’t normally come out as the most intuitive solution. I took pride for changing a ball joint on Camry with a separator when everybody says there isn’t enough space without removing the axel first including Toyota manual. It reduces a Toyota quoted 2 hr job to 30 minutes.
Sorry for my ignorance but how are you moving the strut forward. Can I assume you are taking the 17mm out on the lower wishbone and dropping the strut after releasing thev strut top bolts? Thanks for clarifying
So what was the exact problem
Thanks for watching
@@jimthecarguy 🤦
Did you watch from start to end? It is the upper control arm bushings.
Should have replaced the struts too. Might as well!
Thank you for watching . Don't forget to subscribe.
why honda can;t make noiseless leg just like toyota does
Thank you for stopping by the shop.
They all make noise after time and mileage. I've owned both 09 Accord and 2010 Camry. They both make noise after wear and tear.
The only thing you missed was telling us what noise would each part make if it was bad. Because I’ve been going through videos trying to match the noise I hear in my car with what the problem could be and so far I have not gotten any answers.
Is the process the same or similar in a 2010 Honda CR-V ?
+Edgardo Amado Yes it is the same.Thank you for your input and for watching
+Edgardo Amado Check out these videos for CRV.th-cam.com/video/SZSAoAgGDAY/w-d-xo.html ,th-cam.com/video/3jhvIItGYJo/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/DTC2vqVHzV0/w-d-xo.html