Thank u Jerry, your video helped me a lot. I had some trouble removing the big bar under the engine. Without your video, there was no way I could have installed the transmission mount. But all in all I did it and saved some money. These mechanics are something else. This is Abe. I have subscribed to your channel, liked, and I will share once I have potentials. Very good video, thanks again.
I know I'm years late but this is the best video on how to do this. Everything is pretty much self explanatory. The only issue I'm having is I'm a bit confused as to where to put the jack. I know traditionally you put the jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between the oil pan and jack. However when you showed underneath the vehicle it didn't look like you had the jack under the oil pan. It looked like it was under the long metal plate with the 18mm bolts you were removing. So I'm a bit confused in this respect. Can you please clarify where the jack goes in this instance. Thank you for your time.
Short answer: the jack goes underneath the middle of the Centermember. Why? So the 2.4L L4 engine is attached to the frame via 4 engine/tranny mounts. #1 (Transaxle Mounting Body Side Bracket) is what this video replaced. #2 is named Engine Front Mounting Bracket and it is on the passenger side of the engine. #3 (Engine Rear Roll Stopper Bracket, the tallest one in all 4 mounts) and #4 (Engine Front Roll Stopper Bracket) are two engine/tranny mounts that sit on the Centermember, pretty much front, and end, respectively. If you draw a line between #1 and #2, the line will be parallel to the front axle, and the line is also perpendicular to the Centermember, where the #3 and #4 sit. Now you have a cross. If you need to lower one end of this cross (here is #1), you have to remove the supports on the closest two ends (#3 and #4) so the cross can roll over on the only support left (here is #2). That is why he removed the Centermember mounting bolts to let #3 and #4 can be lower with the Centermember. Also, to control how much the Centermember drops, supporting underneath the Centermember itself is better than supporting the oil pan because the Centermember is further from the only supported end (#2). You will have bigger leverage. Based on this thought, maybe for this specific mount replacement, supporting the engine/tranny right underneath the tranny is good too. Check 32-2 POWER PLANT MOUNT for the diagrams if you have a Service Manual.
Did everything except remove support bar underneath car and knew that's why my engine/transmission wouldn't drop lower so I couldn't remove mount. Had only a little window for time so put everything together watched this video and it helped 100 percent thanks
Its pretty easy to visually inspect your engine mounts. There are 4, one on each side of the engine. If they are torn, than it might contribute to a vibrating vehicle at idle.
So I have a 2002 Galant ES and whenever I am in a red light or the engine is on it shakes, and stops shaking when put in neutral. I was told that it could use a new motor mount but I am not sure which one it may be or if it may be the Idle Air Control. I am planning on doing it myself since I am a student and money is a bit tight right now. If anyone can give me some tips or advice it would be much appreciated and thank you in advance!!!Good video by the way, will definitely follow each step correctly when changing the motor mount.
I was looking to see how to replace the transmission mount on the 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander and I clicked on the most relevant link. I had no idea our host of this video is Jerry Rig Everything until his face up in the end!!!!
Have you ever worked on the newer 2004-2012 Galants? I have a 2011 Galant ES White Pearl and I've done the rear and front mounts. I plan on doing this transmission mount
I know it has been over two years. But I have the same problem with my 04 galant. and looks like a similar setup to this 99 galant. My question is: how did you support the engine while during the whole process? is all what you did is what I see at 2:50? I am planning on doing it this Thursday.
Hello friend... I'm halfway done with this job in my car. All I've used is a 2 ton hydraulic jack (same I use to lift the car). I also use some thick wooden boards on top of jack to not damage engine. To change the mount on passenger side, I placed the board under oil pan. For the rest, I placed it under transmission. Make sure the board only touches the pan or the transmission to avoid breaking anything. Hope it helps.
Good Afternoon, i just want to add this tidbit...please please please be very aware of how much you drop the engine when lowering it to access the mount. What you didn't see is that when you drop the frame that supports the engine and lower it, it places stress on the firewall mount and the main engine mount. Remember that even though the mount by the radiator and the transmission will follow you as you lower. The firewall mount and the main mount will remain static and if you cannot judge how much to lower the engine you will either tear, hurt or stretch the other mounts. If you can get the bolt out the fire wall mount while you're doing this GREAT. If not just take care. I had to replace my firewall mount on my 6a12 trying this....and been seeing other customers bring cars to me for similar problems. Be safe my ppl Nice tutorial JerryRigEverything
Hey man, I konw this video is a bit old but I need to replace my 01 Galant motor mounts, however I couldn't find any OEM replacement in my country so I did buy some aftermarket mounts in my country. To be honest I'm afraid that these replacements by being aftermarket may not reduce the vibrations of my car and instead make it much noisy an less confortable. What do you think of replacing this mounts with the ones I bought? I don't really have any other choiceny the way. And all of them are different brands.
Hi, my galant 2003 is shacking a lot when is stopped or parked with the engine on. It gets better with i put on neutral. Do you think replacing the transmission mount my solve (At least partially) the problem? Thanks in advance!
Can a bad transmission mount give you a low rpm shudder while already driving. When I'm already driving let's say 30mph and I'm barely giving any gas, I start to get a shudder so I give it some gas and it stops. I did hear a loud pop the other day when I was taking off. I pulled the batt and batt tray and looked at it but you cant really see much.
Yeah for sure, I'm having the same exact issue, I thought it was a fuel mixture problem/idle problem but after replacing a faulty alternator, bad o2 sensor, and bad EGR valve. The problem is this exact motor mount. You can really hear it clunk of the motor mount when shifting 1st and 2nd gear when the engine is cold.
Hi i know this video was posted a while ago i just wanted to know if anyone knows since im changing all 4 is there a certain order i should change them in since when u let the motor down its pulling on the other mounts i dont want to replace one and accidently break it trying to put this one in.
i have a 2000 mitsubishi galant, how many tranmission mouts are, my car still shaking after we put all 3 new motor mounts (had 2 bad) but i did not know about this mount, the only way to stop the vibration is in parking or neutral, do you think is the transmission mount, thanks
All 4 mounts need to be replaced. My trans mount did not show wear BUT it was still broken inside the rubber part. I had the identical vibration problems.
Well Cesar, I don't know what to say. I had all four mounts replaced and now my 2005 Galant runs like a new car. Maybe something is defective with one of your mounts. [?].
only happens when is in Drive but reverse, neutral or parking is fine even 3 different mechanics see motor mount and they say is good, no one knows the problem, thanks anyway
Cesar Gomez ...I had the identical problem as your engine. I drove care for one year. finally I took car to mechanic. He fooled around, called me twice and said trans mount was OK...but it was NOT ok. ...My trans mount ''looked" good BUT was totally broken on the inside where the mechanic could not see. I said replace the trans mount ....he did replace it with a new Mitsubishi dealer part and now there is no shaking.
I tried to do it myself one day and was nearly able to do it without fooling with the crossmember, there is a way to actually get those 4 bolts that hold the mount in place to come out completely (certain technique to get that done) vs just the nuts, and then you have more than enough clearance to both take out the mount and put the new one in place and then insert the bolts back into place. You familiar with that?
Interesting idea. You mean unthread the bolts themselves from the frame of the car? That seems like it might take more time/ cause more damage than just loosening up that cross member below the engine. I could be wrong though, I've just never tried it that way.
I figured how to take the studs out. The first "funny nut looking thing" JerrRigEverything took of the top of the first probably assist with taking the studs out. I did not have one on my car so I used the nut off the bolt that goes through the top of the motor mount. Screw another bolt or the "funny nut looking thing" over the stud of your choice. Then unscrew the nut holding the motor mount down until it reaches the bottom of the nut or the "funny nut looking thing". Use a wrench and a ratchet or two wrench. Use one wrench to unscrew the bottom nut and the other to screw down on the top. You want to make the top nut prevent the bottom one from moving. This should unscrew the studs. When I changed my motor mount, after looking at this video, the stud came out with the nut. So I had to figure how to screw it back in. I did the opposite of what I described. I'm sure it is probably an easy way of doing this and probably faster to just drop the motor. I hope everyone can understand what I described.
Touge Drfter Well... I did this repair on a facebook friends car.... We never really talked much before, and we never really talked much after. If it would have failed though... she probably would have messaged me.
They should be easier than the transmission mount. You still will probably need to lower that supporting bar under the car, but other than that they should all be the same.
jerrry mabe you can help me i have problem with a idel motor for galand 32003 ,,,,,,the problem is when i stop the car for 34 hour or all night the car its difficulty to turn on its on but turn off like 3 or 4 times some friend tell its a idel me how i know if you can help me with that friend
JerryRigEverything I need some help with my 02 Galant, I have yet to inspect which mount it is though I have been told it's the front right. I wanna attempt to do it myself after I buy the piece but I am afraid to mess it up more than it is haha I have the vib at idel and I am just sick and tired of it (after 9 months with it) so yeah please some advice or a little more video? Thanks! JerryRigEverything -Giovani
It is kind of a 'check engine' light for your transmission. I would take it into your dealer to get it checked out. Its kind of a big deal so don't drive it too much longer or you might have a bigger issue on your hands.
I'm in the process of replacing the transmission mount right now. Can I place the jack under the transmission instead of the support bar to lower the engine? I'll still remove the support bar while the transmission is jacked up in order to lower the engine.
anyone remove the 4 studs instead of dropping the transmission that far? I think I have to do this shit and I dread getting under there to remove the centermember bolts if I dont have to I'd rather just work from the top even if I have to buy or borrow a set of stud extractors.
Lol, I know! you think you are all done taking it apart and then you realize you dont have enough room to wedge that mount out. And you have to spend another 30 minutes dropping the entire engine farther.
JerryRigEverything Dude, thank you! I was stuck cos the engine wouldn't drop low enough so I can slide the mount in. Can't thank you enough. What kind of symptoms were you getting that drew you to check the mount? I have a harsh clunk when the trans shifts from 1st to 2nd upon inspection I saw all mounts were torn lol.
I'm done, I'm always watching your phone test videos, and all of a sudden I'm looking for info on my car motor mount and boom, Jerry🤣🤣
Thank u Jerry, your video helped me a lot. I had some trouble removing the big bar under the engine. Without your video, there was no way I could have installed the transmission mount. But all in all I did it and saved some money. These mechanics are something else. This is Abe. I have subscribed to your channel, liked, and I will share once I have potentials. Very good video, thanks again.
I know I'm years late but this is the best video on how to do this. Everything is pretty much self explanatory. The only issue I'm having is I'm a bit confused as to where to put the jack. I know traditionally you put the jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between the oil pan and jack. However when you showed underneath the vehicle it didn't look like you had the jack under the oil pan. It looked like it was under the long metal plate with the 18mm bolts you were removing. So I'm a bit confused in this respect. Can you please clarify where the jack goes in this instance. Thank you for your time.
Short answer: the jack goes underneath the middle of the Centermember. Why? So the 2.4L L4 engine is attached to the frame via 4 engine/tranny mounts. #1 (Transaxle Mounting Body Side Bracket) is what this video replaced. #2 is named Engine Front Mounting Bracket and it is on the passenger side of the engine. #3 (Engine Rear Roll Stopper Bracket, the tallest one in all 4 mounts) and #4 (Engine Front Roll Stopper Bracket) are two engine/tranny mounts that sit on the Centermember, pretty much front, and end, respectively. If you draw a line between #1 and #2, the line will be parallel to the front axle, and the line is also perpendicular to the Centermember, where the #3 and #4 sit. Now you have a cross. If you need to lower one end of this cross (here is #1), you have to remove the supports on the closest two ends (#3 and #4) so the cross can roll over on the only support left (here is #2). That is why he removed the Centermember mounting bolts to let #3 and #4 can be lower with the Centermember. Also, to control how much the Centermember drops, supporting underneath the Centermember itself is better than supporting the oil pan because the Centermember is further from the only supported end (#2). You will have bigger leverage. Based on this thought, maybe for this specific mount replacement, supporting the engine/tranny right underneath the tranny is good too. Check 32-2 POWER PLANT MOUNT for the diagrams if you have a Service Manual.
@@anthonyli6810 Thank you for the clarification.
Well done video! Clearly explained with no run around and lengthy explanations. Thanks for this great post!
Right to the point thanks.
Did everything except remove support bar underneath car and knew that's why my engine/transmission wouldn't drop lower so I couldn't remove mount. Had only a little window for time so put everything together watched this video and it helped 100 percent thanks
Nice! I freakin love youtube for that very reason. Its saved me so many times. I am glad I was able to help you out.
Wonderful video. Could this be why my Galant starts to idle rough when the transmission is in drive at a stop? Already cleaned idle air control valve.
Its pretty easy to visually inspect your engine mounts. There are 4, one on each side of the engine. If they are torn, than it might contribute to a vibrating vehicle at idle.
So I have a 2002 Galant ES and whenever I am in a red light or the engine is on it shakes, and stops shaking when put in neutral. I was told that it could use a new motor mount but I am not sure which one it may be or if it may be the Idle Air Control. I am planning on doing it myself since I am a student and money is a bit tight right now. If anyone can give me some tips or advice it would be much appreciated and thank you in advance!!!Good video by the way, will definitely follow each step correctly when changing the motor mount.
So “persuasion” seems to be the answer I’m looking for...currently can’t seem to get my new one in
I was looking to see how to replace the transmission mount on the 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander and I clicked on the most relevant link. I had no idea our host of this video is Jerry Rig Everything until his face up in the end!!!!
Have you ever worked on the newer 2004-2012 Galants? I have a 2011 Galant ES White Pearl and I've done the rear and front mounts. I plan on doing this transmission mount
I know it has been over two years. But I have the same problem with my 04 galant. and looks like a similar setup to this 99 galant. My question is: how did you support the engine while during the whole process? is all what you did is what I see at 2:50? I am planning on doing it this Thursday.
Hello friend... I'm halfway done with this job in my car. All I've used is a 2 ton hydraulic jack (same I use to lift the car). I also use some thick wooden boards on top of jack to not damage engine.
To change the mount on passenger side, I placed the board under oil pan. For the rest, I placed it under transmission. Make sure the board only touches the pan or the transmission to avoid breaking anything.
Hope it helps.
Hi Jerry, what about the setting for the torque wrench ?
Are u applying the same torque for the body bolt and mounting bolt ?
Good Afternoon, i just want to add this tidbit...please please please be very aware of how much you drop the engine when lowering it to access the mount. What you didn't see is that when you drop the frame that supports the engine and lower it, it places stress on the firewall mount and the main engine mount.
Remember that even though the mount by the radiator and the transmission will follow you as you lower. The firewall mount and the main mount will remain static and if you cannot judge how much to lower the engine you will either tear, hurt or stretch the other mounts. If you can get the bolt out the fire wall mount while you're doing this GREAT. If not just take care. I had to replace my firewall mount on my 6a12 trying this....and been seeing other customers bring cars to me for similar problems.
Be safe my ppl
Nice tutorial JerryRigEverything
chris elcock Thanks for the advice! TH-cam is a great place to learn new things.
indeed....
.
Excellent video im almost done can you tell me how to remove the one in the back.
Hey man, I konw this video is a bit old but I need to replace my 01 Galant motor mounts, however I couldn't find any OEM replacement in my country so I did buy some aftermarket mounts in my country. To be honest I'm afraid that these replacements by being aftermarket may not reduce the vibrations of my car and instead make it much noisy an less confortable. What do you think of replacing this mounts with the ones I bought? I don't really have any other choiceny the way. And all of them are different brands.
Would know why after I did the two top motor mounts my car sounds alot louder?
Thanks for the video! What brand of motor mount did you use? Hows it holding up? JerryRigEverything
I got the one that I linked in the video description. And it is holding up like a champ.
Hi, my galant 2003 is shacking a lot when is stopped or parked with the engine on. It gets better with i put on neutral. Do you think replacing the transmission mount my solve (At least partially) the problem?
Thanks in advance!
Thomas Lemke See if your mount is broken before replacing it. You can usually tell just by looking at it.
it was on the fash huh?
My trans mount did not show it was broken BUT the broken part was hidden inside the rubber part. I replaced it and now NO vibrations.
My trans mount did not show it was broken BUT the broken part was hidden inside the rubber part. I replaced it and now NO vibrations.
Can a bad transmission mount give you a low rpm shudder while already driving. When I'm already driving let's say 30mph and I'm barely giving any gas, I start to get a shudder so I give it some gas and it stops. I did hear a loud pop the other day when I was taking off. I pulled the batt and batt tray and looked at it but you cant really see much.
Yeah for sure, I'm having the same exact issue, I thought it was a fuel mixture problem/idle problem but after replacing a faulty alternator, bad o2 sensor, and bad EGR valve. The problem is this exact motor mount. You can really hear it clunk of the motor mount when shifting 1st and 2nd gear when the engine is cold.
Exactly what i was looking for. Thanks.
Gabriel Moreno No problem! Thanks for watching.
hi jerry!! a question , how remove the retainer , engine?, i'ts difficult , i can't
Hi i know this video was posted a while ago i just wanted to know if anyone knows since im changing all 4 is there a certain order i should change them in since when u let the motor down its pulling on the other mounts i dont want to replace one and accidently break it trying to put this one in.
Would this also work on a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse?
any vidz on replacing the rear motor mount?
Jerry, How long did it take you to do this from beginning to end?
The support bar connects the front and the back engine mounts right?
No, there are 4 mounts surrounding the engine, and then the support bar underneath is separate.
i have a 2000 mitsubishi galant, how many tranmission mouts are, my car still shaking after we put all 3 new motor mounts (had 2 bad) but i did not know about this mount, the only way to stop the vibration is in parking or neutral, do you think is the transmission mount, thanks
All 4 mounts need to be replaced. My trans mount did not show wear BUT it was still broken inside the rubber part.
I had the identical vibration problems.
Thanks Douglas, all 4 mounts are new we decided to replace the transmission mount too but the problem still there, any other idea
Thanks
Well Cesar, I don't know what to say. I had all four mounts replaced and now my 2005 Galant runs like a new car. Maybe something is defective with one of your mounts. [?].
only happens when is in Drive but reverse, neutral or parking is fine even 3 different mechanics see motor mount and they say is good, no one knows the problem, thanks anyway
Cesar Gomez ...I had the identical problem as your engine. I drove care for one year. finally I took car to mechanic. He fooled around, called me twice and said trans mount was OK...but it was NOT ok. ...My trans mount ''looked" good BUT was totally broken on the inside where the mechanic could not see. I said replace the trans mount ....he did replace it with a new Mitsubishi dealer part and now there is no shaking.
I tried to do it myself one day and was nearly able to do it without fooling with the crossmember, there is a way to actually get those 4 bolts that hold the mount in place to come out completely (certain technique to get that done) vs just the nuts, and then you have more than enough clearance to both take out the mount and put the new one in place and then insert the bolts back into place. You familiar with that?
Interesting idea. You mean unthread the bolts themselves from the frame of the car? That seems like it might take more time/ cause more damage than just loosening up that cross member below the engine. I could be wrong though, I've just never tried it that way.
I figured how to take the studs out. The first "funny nut looking thing" JerrRigEverything took of the top of the first probably assist with taking the studs out. I did not have one on my car so I used the nut off the bolt that goes through the top of the motor mount. Screw another bolt or the "funny nut looking thing" over the stud of your choice. Then unscrew the nut holding the motor mount down until it reaches the bottom of the nut or the "funny nut looking thing". Use a wrench and a ratchet or two wrench. Use one wrench to unscrew the bottom nut and the other to screw down on the top. You want to make the top nut prevent the bottom one from moving. This should unscrew the studs. When I changed my motor mount, after looking at this video, the stud came out with the nut. So I had to figure how to screw it back in. I did the opposite of what I described. I'm sure it is probably an easy way of doing this and probably faster to just drop the motor. I hope everyone can understand what I described.
JerryRigEverything Excellent video.
Ladawn I saw a TH-cam video a few years back that described exactly the way you did it, using a 2nd nut, and it appeared simple and safe.
How has the item from Amazon held up over the past year? Planning on doing this to my 02 Galant soon
Touge Drfter Well... I did this repair on a facebook friends car.... We never really talked much before, and we never really talked much after. If it would have failed though... she probably would have messaged me.
Just what I needed! Thank you!
Yaoska Rivas No problem! Thanks for watching!
Do you have any tips on replacing the front motor mount and right one as well. Can't find any videos of it
They should be easier than the transmission mount. You still will probably need to lower that supporting bar under the car, but other than that they should all be the same.
K thanks
Today change the transmission mount still rough idle and I need your help
Check CV joint
How many motor mounts are there on the 02 Galant ?
Steven Daniels same ! Does this still aply even with 02s??
When u say there's 4 mounts ,does tht include the transmission mount?
Props to you for an excellent video.
Thank you! I try and make them as 'to the point' as possible.
oh my god ! that was easy to change, thkns a lot, greetings from Mexico :)
jerrry mabe you can help me i have problem with a idel motor for galand 32003 ,,,,,,the problem is when i stop the car for 34 hour or all night the car its difficulty to turn on its on but turn off like 3 or 4 times some friend tell its a idel me how i know if you can help me with that friend
JerryRigEverything I need some help with my 02 Galant, I have yet to inspect which mount it is though I have been told it's the front right. I wanna attempt to do it myself after I buy the piece but I am afraid to mess it up more than it is haha I have the vib at idel and I am just sick and tired of it (after 9 months with it) so yeah please some advice or a little more video? Thanks! JerryRigEverything
-Giovani
HollowGEO There isnt much you can mess up. Its only a few bolts. Just make sure to get them all tight again before you start driving around again.
How can i check to see which ones are cracked, so that i know which ones to replace?
***** You can do it visually, or you can reach in and feel the rubber inside the mounts and see if its torn or shredded.
wats up man was wondering if you can help. i changed all my mounts and my galant still shakes when im at a stop and i have it in drive
thats exactly what happens to my galant.
I have a mittsubishi galant 2001 and had the same problem. try to clean your idle air control that might fix the problem
Should upload one with an engine mount
The D4 light on my 95 Honda accord starts blinking when i go past 40 MPH,Any tips??
It is kind of a 'check engine' light for your transmission. I would take it into your dealer to get it checked out. Its kind of a big deal so don't drive it too much longer or you might have a bigger issue on your hands.
JerryRigEverything One more thing. SOmetimes when i start to slow down while pressing the brakes i will hear a loud pop from under the car?
I'm in the process of replacing the transmission mount right now. Can I place the jack under the transmission instead of the support bar to lower the engine? I'll still remove the support bar while the transmission is jacked up in order to lower the engine.
Ya, you can, I would put a block of wood between your jack and the transmission though. To distribute the weight better.
And will it Work for mitsubishi lancer 03
***** Should be pretty similar. Engine mounts are all pretty much the same.
anyone remove the 4 studs instead of dropping the transmission that far? I think I have to do this shit and I dread getting under there to remove the centermember bolts if I dont have to I'd rather just work from the top even if I have to buy or borrow a set of stud extractors.
Wow I didn't know you had a Galant
thanks bro i just replace mine just exactly how you explane
That's awesome! Glad to hear I could help out.
Gracias (Thanks), excelente video...
Thanks a ton buddy
Nice video
thank you sir
Cool
great good
hahaha, love it. me and my brother had quite a head ache taking this piece of shit out. :P
Lol, I know! you think you are all done taking it apart and then you realize you dont have enough room to wedge that mount out. And you have to spend another 30 minutes dropping the entire engine farther.
JerryRigEverything Dude, thank you! I was stuck cos the engine wouldn't drop low enough so I can slide the mount in. Can't thank you enough. What kind of symptoms were you getting that drew you to check the mount? I have a harsh clunk when the trans shifts from 1st to 2nd upon inspection I saw all mounts were torn lol.
When u say there's 4 mounts ,does tht include the transmission mount?
For the galant it’s 3 motor mounts and 1 transmission mount, this was for the transmission mount
Are the motor mount and transmission mounts different? On my 2011, the rear engine mount is bad. So is the transmission mount.
When u say there's 4 mounts ,does tht include the transmission mount?
mj mj no