You guys ALWAYS give great info, you really should EDIT this video with some popup text WARNING PEOPLE IF YOUR CRANK HAS MOVED AFTER THE SENSOR DIED, OR IF YOURE REPLACING A PHYSICALLY BROKEN SENSOR, YOU MUST RESET TO TDC USE THE ALIGNMENT PEG, COUNT 20 TEETH FROM THE GAP TOOTH UP TOP, ALIGN THE CPS WITH T20 DEAD CENTER. REPLACE TDC PEG WITH THE PLUG. I replaced my sensor just like this video and almost scrapped the car because it wouldnt start. I decided to look at the service manual and found the alignment proceedure!! VITAL information. You really should warn people!
This is not the correct install method according to the engine manual. You need to get the 1st cylinder in the top dead center before installing the sensor. Also, you need to draw a line right in the middle of the sensor and make sure it is perfectly aligned with the middle of the tooth on the signal wheel, not just get the bolts in the middle of the sensor. Depending on the engine, you need to make sure the sensor is facing the right tooth. For example, on L3 with TC, it is the 20th tooth counter-clockwise from the empty space on the wheel that has no teeth. For other Mazda engines, I've seen 5th, 8th tooth, etc.
The reason that the sensor position is adjustable is to center it on the 20th tooth on that gear. If you look up there is a tooth gap that is essentially a mission gear tooth - count 20 to the left from that one and you center on that 20th tooth. If you fail to do so - you'll still have issues
Along with what Alex Ivanov stated, there is also an alignment access hole on some engines on the back of the block near the sensor mount area to get it exactly to TDC #1 compression stroke and then align the new sensor metal pickup face to the tooth of the reluctor wheel so it looks like what she aligned nearest the tooth in the video so I actually believe the video was set up in advance without showing all the steps making it look easier than it really is. What A1 is also advertising is that their part is shaped exactly like OEM so installing it in the exact slot location should get you running again, as the tutorial shows with no concern for exacting alignment. In the real world, if this adjustment is off too far, the engine will not start.
for those of you saying its incorrect. thats not technically true. if you use a straight edge to make the crank pulley with the alignment mark of the ckp, as long as you align the new one with the mark you made, its totally fine. its when you install without making a mark. but if you take the sensor off without making a mark, or its a fresh rebuild or you just did timing, using the tdc peg, crank pulley alignment bolt and set to the correct tooth count (all different based on what engine you have i.e. 2.3 mzr disi is 2pth tooth) would be the correct method.
I appreciate the vid upload. But according to some Mazda technical bulletins this is not the correct way to install crank shaft sensor. You have to set the vehicle to TDC and align the sensor with a certain tooth number on the crank wheel
You should mark the pully tab with a paint pen and also centre the line on the sensor on the tab when removing and reinstalling this makes it perfect, what you did was dodgy as.
+Sde7th Offical This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto Not according to the factory service manual. At least matchmark the pulley to the alignment groove on the sensor, then align the new sensor with the mark on the pulley.
@@1AAuto Best to back up your code being read by a scanner with a double test with an oscilloscope to be sure the code is not a false positive, happens all the time. Could have a broken wire with no sign of burnt connector as mentioned in the video. Too many technicians trust their scanner, not me buddy.
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You guys ALWAYS give great info, you really should EDIT this video with some popup text WARNING PEOPLE IF YOUR CRANK HAS MOVED AFTER THE SENSOR DIED, OR IF YOURE REPLACING A PHYSICALLY BROKEN SENSOR, YOU MUST RESET TO TDC USE THE ALIGNMENT PEG, COUNT 20 TEETH FROM THE GAP TOOTH UP TOP, ALIGN THE CPS WITH T20 DEAD CENTER. REPLACE TDC PEG WITH THE PLUG. I replaced my sensor just like this video and almost scrapped the car because it wouldnt start. I decided to look at the service manual and found the alignment proceedure!! VITAL information. You really should warn people!
This is not the correct install method according to the engine manual. You need to get the 1st cylinder in the top dead center before installing the sensor. Also, you need to draw a line right in the middle of the sensor and make sure it is perfectly aligned with the middle of the tooth on the signal wheel, not just get the bolts in the middle of the sensor. Depending on the engine, you need to make sure the sensor is facing the right tooth. For example, on L3 with TC, it is the 20th tooth counter-clockwise from the empty space on the wheel that has no teeth. For other Mazda engines, I've seen 5th, 8th tooth, etc.
Do you know which tooth it goes on for the 2012 mazda 6 2.5l engine?
@@gian-lucbrasseur207 The manual for CX-7 says it's the 20th tooth. Might be the same, or you can just count the teeth before removing the old sensor.
@@gian-lucbrasseur207 Good question!
@@gian-lucbrasseur207 Can you you tell me the answer please?
The reason that the sensor position is adjustable is to center it on the 20th tooth on that gear. If you look up there is a tooth gap that is essentially a mission gear tooth - count 20 to the left from that one and you center on that 20th tooth. If you fail to do so - you'll still have issues
Along with what Alex Ivanov stated, there is also an alignment access hole on some engines on the back of the block near the sensor mount area to get it exactly to TDC #1 compression stroke and then align the new sensor metal pickup face to the tooth of the reluctor wheel so it looks like what she aligned nearest the tooth in the video so I actually believe the video was set up in advance without showing all the steps making it look easier than it really is. What A1 is also advertising is that their part is shaped exactly like OEM so installing it in the exact slot location should get you running again, as the tutorial shows with no concern for exacting alignment. In the real world, if this adjustment is off too far, the engine will not start.
+Duane Donaldson Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Mark one tooth with white paint and rotate pulley toward sensor tip. Replace a new one without moving pulley.
for those of you saying its incorrect. thats not technically true. if you use a straight edge to make the crank pulley with the alignment mark of the ckp, as long as you align the new one with the mark you made, its totally fine. its when you install without making a mark.
but if you take the sensor off without making a mark, or its a fresh rebuild or you just did timing, using the tdc peg, crank pulley alignment bolt and set to the correct tooth count (all different based on what engine you have i.e. 2.3 mzr disi is 2pth tooth) would be the correct method.
I appreciate the vid upload. But according to some Mazda technical bulletins this is not the correct way to install crank shaft sensor. You have to set the vehicle to TDC and align the sensor with a certain tooth number on the crank wheel
As per other comments, you need to align the new sensor precisely using the prescribed procedure. This is sloppy and unprofessional.
I'm glad you added the lock tab part to the sensor because I ordered one and it didn't come with now im mad
Would the crankshaft sensor have to be re-learned or reprogrammed?
I'm looking for cam sensor and cranksensor on Mazda astina 1996 model 1800 DOCH engine nr bp22598 can't find it???
You should mark the pully tab with a paint pen and also centre the line on the sensor on the tab when removing and reinstalling this makes it perfect, what you did was dodgy as.
do the 3.0l and 2.3l have the sensor in the same position on the engine?
+Sde7th Offical This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Best guide!
Is it true if u change the crank sensor that you gotta change the cam sensor to
ive read you should disconnect the battery first before replacing sensors.
No need , I have workshop manual for mazda 6 from 02 to 08 it's not mentioned to disconnect battery terminal to replace CKP Sensor.
@@mohammadamro4132 Still better to disconnect. Logique
most mazda 6 have a 2.5 l
I'm agree with Alex Ivanov in the previous comment, it is not the right way to do it. , so don't do it in this way
+Vanesa Olds We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
@@1AAuto Not according to the factory service manual. At least matchmark the pulley to the alignment groove on the sensor, then align the new sensor with the mark on the pulley.
VERY GOOD THANK TOU
What to do when connector won't unplug
how much creck sensor
When should you replace the sensor for the car
+Deo Shivute When it goes out and you have a code for it
@@1AAuto Best to back up your code being read by a scanner with a double test with an oscilloscope to be sure the code is not a false positive, happens all the time. Could have a broken wire with no sign of burnt connector as mentioned in the video. Too many technicians trust their scanner, not me buddy.
@@1AAuto my Mazda vibrates a lot, someone told me it’s the crankshaft sensor. Can vibrations be caused by a bad sensor??
@@isaakruvalcaba824 i know it's a year old, but mine were caused by the front motor mount.
This video was NO help i have a 3.7 engine
very good thank you