Great fix phil i really enjoy your content you really inspire me i really like to fix stuff but im only experienced in soldering so for christmas im getting the atten hot air station you recommended so i can start micro soldering keep up the incredible work
Very nice fix again! You said a this is the solution that works very often, do you also know what caused the solderconnection under the APU to break? Is it overheating of the console or moving a console when it is still hot or dropping it... just wondering. Keep up those great fixes we love them
@@virgildeklerk It's due to reducing lead in electronic waste - Manufacturers use non leaded solder which has a higher melt point and is inherently more brittle - heat cycles cause micro fissures as the solder is unable to withstand the expansion/contraction. When any of us reball we use leaded solder which is easier to work with and pretty much eradicates any further issues as lead is more pliable. Though in the case of PS4s bad prep at the manufacturer or something is an issue sometimes.... Always seems to be a couple of pads (the same ones) that are contaminated when encountering such systems. Some are bad enough that you have to physically scrape the pad clean to allow the solder to flow.... Reflows don't work on these ones and reballs are required to mechanically clean the pads
Not sure if you worked on PS3's or 360's. I did for years doing reflows on GPU's. Any reball i did never seemed to last more then 3 months. The reflows about a year. Could get more times overdriving fans. At the end of the day reflowing or reballing a bad chip is still a dead chip. From my understanding it was the dye. So I am curious, these repairs come back after so long? I have a station and skill but honestly I always tell customers its money better spent on a console with a good chip.
@@revokednetwork4212 to be honest most people aren't going to have a BGA machine, that's the bigger problem. They're too expensive and a lot of people would only need it once and never again so most the time it's not worth the investment for the average user
when i use hot air to reflow an apu or GPU , then after , i modify the fan circuit to run wide open anytime , it leave a chance to the part reflowed by heating less
People do have their preferences, but if I'm being honest one of the reasons I left my old job after covid was the boss was making me reflow GPUs and I didn't agree with it
im suprized you dont have a small electric heater out there even one on lowest settings should have you confratable judging by where your wearing a coat I'm guessing that would pop the breaker tho with the other stuff you run buts thats what I got out in my storm room is just a lil one running on lowest setting wich is only like 600w but it does got good fan makes it just enough where i don't need a coat out here sometimes I do need a sweatshirt tho but thats because I refuse to go above low setting lol.
To be fair I have a couple in there. I wired them back in today because it is getting pretty cold in there. I just have to remember to turn them off at night and when I'm using the BGA machine because yeah it does pop the breaker if I use everything at once. I actually had my cable catch fire once to the industrial extension i have lol
I do but they're all on motherboards mate. By the time I've paid for the electricity, flux and time it takes me to remove one you'd be better off buying donor boards from ebay if I'm honest
What is the profile and what's your payment I can pay you for that because I just bought the ir pro I don't know how to use the profiles on this machine because I always use the honton r490
My profile is set to increase the bottom plate at 1⁰C per second until it reached 220⁰C. Once the bottom plate is at 220⁰C the top plate turns on and heats up at 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 100⁰C. It will then hold for 30 seconds, then increase at 0.8⁰C until it reaches 140⁰C, hold for 15 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 180⁰C, hold for 15 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 200⁰C, hold for 10 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 220⁰C, hold for 10 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 235⁰C, hold for 30 seconds and then the profile is complete
A profile for one may not work for another - Air temp/humidity/draughts etc all play a role in what a profile is. Use phils as a baseline and adjust as needed ;)
My old xbox 360 slim was working fine so I unplugged the hdmi lead out of my telly to watch a dvd then plugged it back in after I watched the dvd now I'm getting no signal strange but yet the xbox works fine in the bedroom but it wunt work in the front room even though it's set the right input
@@triogaminggroup4180 I've tried 4 hdmi cables but no joy it's baffled me but it will work on my bedroom TV. At first I thought it was the hdmi port on my TV in the front room but no as my dvd player works fine 😕🤷♂️
@@djpaul146 Turn off the console then turn back on when the console starts, press and hold the Y button while pulling the right trigger on the controller. This will reset the display settings - do it while plugged into the TV you are having difficulties with - Hoping that helps ;)
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Another awesome repair done, any many many thanks for the shout out Phil much appreciated buddy 😘
No dramas matey you're welcome
I’m addicted to this guy. ❤️
Great work Phil. Thanks for the video. I think now you need to decompress with some COD, 😂
Haha too much work to do 😂
And thank you for the mention as always my love
You're welcome munchkin 😘
another great job phil well done keep up the good work.
Always a pleasure to watch you work! Whether it's live or not!
Cheers buddy 😛🥰
hi phiil nice work like always. You realy skilled in console repair. .keep up the good work.
great video!!
I noticed that the link in your description points to another reworkstation as the IR PRO SC.
I'll look into that mate and sort the links out
Very nice fix and explanation how it works. Great video!
Great job phil I dont fix anything but I love watching your videos
Thank you mate
Love your videos mate, thanks a lot!
Great fix phil i really enjoy your content you really inspire me i really like to fix stuff but im only experienced in soldering so for christmas im getting the atten hot air station you recommended so i can start micro soldering keep up the incredible work
Thanks mate, that's awesome. The Atten is a great station. All it takes is practice as with any skill 😁
Dust for tea and trash for supper, followrd by gunk for dessert. Somebody help him and send a mayonaise sandwich with every repairjob 😅
Awesome job, I thought these machines were used for reballing but i didn´t think of reflowing, man I wish i could afford one, amazing job as always!
Thanks bud, yeah reflows are pretty successful on these machines but they are expensive
Very nice fix again! You said a this is the solution that works very often, do you also know what caused the solderconnection under the APU to break? Is it overheating of the console or moving a console when it is still hot or dropping it... just wondering. Keep up those great fixes we love them
@@virgildeklerk It's due to reducing lead in electronic waste - Manufacturers use non leaded solder which has a higher melt point and is inherently more brittle - heat cycles cause micro fissures as the solder is unable to withstand the expansion/contraction. When any of us reball we use leaded solder which is easier to work with and pretty much eradicates any further issues as lead is more pliable.
Though in the case of PS4s bad prep at the manufacturer or something is an issue sometimes.... Always seems to be a couple of pads (the same ones) that are contaminated when encountering such systems. Some are bad enough that you have to physically scrape the pad clean to allow the solder to flow.... Reflows don't work on these ones and reballs are required to mechanically clean the pads
Modern game systems freak me out because of the BGA issues. Great video as always
Cheers mate, they're not too bad, just have to get used to them that's all. That and the expensive equipment you need lol
Nice fix like always Phil 😉
Thanks buddy. Hey by the way I filmed a video earlier and got a shout in for you ;)
@@TheCod3r thanks mate, I really appreciate it 🙂
Well done phil, a successful ps4 reball job 😊
Kinda, reflow but same thing lol
Bro love the work u put out u know your stuff 💯👍🏾
Thanks mate, much appreciated
Great video, you covered a lot.
Not sure if you worked on PS3's or 360's. I did for years doing reflows on GPU's. Any reball i did never seemed to last more then 3 months. The reflows about a year. Could get more times overdriving fans. At the end of the day reflowing or reballing a bad chip is still a dead chip. From my understanding it was the dye. So I am curious, these repairs come back after so long? I have a station and skill but honestly I always tell customers its money better spent on a console with a good chip.
Good job phill
Cheers pal
Its just me first pressing like on video then starting to watch ?:D
Grate job Phil
Cheers bud
@@TheCod3r no problem
Nice repair Phil
Thank you ;)
I reflowed 1 with a heat gun and flux 6 years ago still works to this day
That's sweet, but most the time it'll end badly (ask MMV lol)
@@TheCod3r yes but at the time the costs of the repair whoud of been more then the console was worth so I didn’t have much to lose
@@revokednetwork4212 to be honest most people aren't going to have a BGA machine, that's the bigger problem. They're too expensive and a lot of people would only need it once and never again so most the time it's not worth the investment for the average user
So when you have long blue light of death but SB ok you have to have power in USB ports?
Hahaha. "that's what she said"
You caught that then 😂
Great fix
when i use hot air to reflow an apu or GPU , then after , i modify the fan circuit to run wide open anytime , it leave a chance to the part reflowed by heating less
People do have their preferences, but if I'm being honest one of the reasons I left my old job after covid was the boss was making me reflow GPUs and I didn't agree with it
What about ESD?
im suprized you dont have a small electric heater out there even one on lowest settings should have you confratable judging by where your wearing a coat I'm guessing that would pop the breaker tho with the other stuff you run buts thats what I got out in my storm room is just a lil one running on lowest setting wich is only like 600w but it does got good fan makes it just enough where i don't need a coat out here sometimes I do need a sweatshirt tho but thats because I refuse to go above low setting lol.
To be fair I have a couple in there. I wired them back in today because it is getting pretty cold in there. I just have to remember to turn them off at night and when I'm using the BGA machine because yeah it does pop the breaker if I use everything at once. I actually had my cable catch fire once to the industrial extension i have lol
Do you have any broken APus for the PlayStation and Xbox a Nintendo Swich
I do but they're all on motherboards mate. By the time I've paid for the electricity, flux and time it takes me to remove one you'd be better off buying donor boards from ebay if I'm honest
@@TheCod3r Cool never hurts to ask
and the xclamp is easier to remove on the ps4 with that fix! lol, nice fix!
Haha yup 😆
You are awsome 💙
Don’t let him eat dust for tea lol 😂
Haha thanks big mac... Wait, your name looks like food...
@@TheCod3r Hahahahah your not eating me mate
@@Mark1971-1 haha that's just mean 😂😂
What is the profile and what's your payment I can pay you for that because I just bought the ir pro I don't know how to use the profiles on this machine because I always use the honton r490
My profile is set to increase the bottom plate at 1⁰C per second until it reached 220⁰C. Once the bottom plate is at 220⁰C the top plate turns on and heats up at 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 100⁰C. It will then hold for 30 seconds, then increase at 0.8⁰C until it reaches 140⁰C, hold for 15 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 180⁰C, hold for 15 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 200⁰C, hold for 10 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 220⁰C, hold for 10 seconds, 0.8⁰C per second until it reaches 235⁰C, hold for 30 seconds and then the profile is complete
A profile for one may not work for another - Air temp/humidity/draughts etc all play a role in what a profile is. Use phils as a baseline and adjust as needed ;)
@@TheCod3r I mean I understand but my machine have set of L1 R1 D1
IF YOU NEED MONEY FOR THE PROFILE I CAN PAY FOR THAT MAN
شكراً أخي الكريم
another great video! and ive got my eye on yu? (O-O) lol
Haha thanks buddy 😄
My old xbox 360 slim was working fine so I unplugged the hdmi lead out of my telly to watch a dvd then plugged it back in after I watched the dvd now I'm getting no signal strange but yet the xbox works fine in the bedroom but it wunt work in the front room even though it's set the right input
I honestly can't help with 360s, I don't repair them so I don't know anything about them unfortunately
Tried another HDMI cable fella?
@@triogaminggroup4180 I've tried 4 hdmi cables but no joy it's baffled me but it will work on my bedroom TV. At first I thought it was the hdmi port on my TV in the front room but no as my dvd player works fine 😕🤷♂️
@@djpaul146 Turn off the console then turn back on when the console starts, press and hold the Y button while pulling the right trigger on the controller. This will reset the display settings - do it while plugged into the TV you are having difficulties with - Hoping that helps ;)
So a (heat Gun) is not commended ???
Definitely not recommended mate. Most of the time it'll end badly with either torn traces or a popcorned chip
@@TheCod3r ok thanks bro 🙏🏾
i could have sent you my ps4 when the hdmi port was faulty.
What's that machine called?
Where can I find it?
This machine is an Achi IR Pro SC. You can buy them from China but they're not cheap. Here's a link to them: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_EQD1pdt