Check if radiator is warming as fast as the block...if so, thermostats are being bypassed by vent hoses etc. Depending where hooked, heater core and air comp cooling may circulate in the block by water pump action only, and not be bypassing the thermostats. make sure water is contacting the thermostat pellets so they can actuate. meaning vent hoses or drilled holes ... also nice to have a heat sensor.gun to look for hot/cold spots....the heat must be concentrated somewhere? Good Luck
@@larryanderson8049 I'm yanking this engine out. New T-stats shutters closed and runs cold. Thinking my hose mixup created a bypass. So switched it back to way it was. Thankfully I had pic's to look back on
Hi from Sydney mate. How are the thermostats in it? I can’t imagine bypassing with those smaller size hoses having too much effect on the engine getting to temperature. Possibly may take a bit longer but it would still get there I’d imagine. It’s like the thermostats are both open all the time
@@stevesplacedownunder new OEM Detroit t-stats. I'm also leaning towards my water loss be to fact that it doesn't get up to temp. So there a weak seal somewhere that doesn't hold. Or I have a bad head that consumes water at a certain temperature. Not sure. My plan is to disassemble the 2 8-71N engine's and try make 1 runner
I'm thinking heater core acted as a radiator and pulled heat out and because it was on a small loop it pulled all heat out. This theory from hydronic heating. You will blow cold air from heat exchanger if fan to big. I put a heat exchanger in for heater core. Should be video on it. So I think I can pull all heat out if flow not right
It's a bit of a pain but if you run it without the exhaust manifolds you should be able to locate the cylinder that's consuming the antifreeze. If the 110 degree heat level is accurate you probably have non-functioning thermostats. I'd check those first.
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Check if radiator is warming as fast as the block...if so, thermostats are being bypassed by vent hoses etc. Depending where hooked, heater core and air comp cooling may circulate in the block by water pump action only, and not be bypassing the thermostats. make sure water is contacting the thermostat pellets so they can actuate. meaning vent hoses or drilled holes ... also nice to have a heat sensor.gun to look for hot/cold spots....the heat must be concentrated somewhere? Good Luck
@@larryanderson8049 I'm yanking this engine out. New T-stats shutters closed and runs cold. Thinking my hose mixup created a bypass. So switched it back to way it was. Thankfully I had pic's to look back on
Hi from Sydney mate. How are the thermostats in it? I can’t imagine bypassing with those smaller size hoses having too much effect on the engine getting to temperature. Possibly may take a bit longer but it would still get there I’d imagine. It’s like the thermostats are both open all the time
@@stevesplacedownunder new OEM Detroit t-stats. I'm also leaning towards my water loss be to fact that it doesn't get up to temp. So there a weak seal somewhere that doesn't hold. Or I have a bad head that consumes water at a certain temperature. Not sure. My plan is to disassemble the 2 8-71N engine's and try make 1 runner
I'm thinking heater core acted as a radiator and pulled heat out and because it was on a small loop it pulled all heat out. This theory from hydronic heating. You will blow cold air from heat exchanger if fan to big. I put a heat exchanger in for heater core. Should be video on it. So I think I can pull all heat out if flow not right
It's a bit of a pain but if you run it without the exhaust manifolds you should be able to locate the cylinder that's consuming the antifreeze. If the 110 degree heat level is accurate you probably have non-functioning thermostats. I'd check those first.
@@greatnorthernn-3154 new t-tat's. Never showed anything in exhaust. Thinking opened up under a load and puked out
@@greatnorthernn-3154 I'm replacing engine with an 8-71T . Switching lines back to where they where and getting rid of some