Hey, just wanted to mention something that might help! When using cable clamps, it’s important to ‘never saddle a dead horse’ - meaning the saddle should go on the working end of the cable, not the loose (dead) end. It helps keep the connection strong and safe! Just thought I’d share in case it’s helpful. 🙂
When i worked the drilling rigs years ago we always used two clamps, but faced the saddles opposite so they would "lock in together" . I've seen the cable snap before the clamps slipped with this setup.
Thanks PaMac. Could you maybe do a video about a few basic knots every farmer should know? With some detailed (close up shots) instructions. I think rope and twine are some of the most important tools on a farm or even in life in general. Definitely one of my favorites, probably one of yours too. 😊 💕
0:26 Looks like you could use the Wagoneers Hitch, it has an upper and lower loop. Works the same as you have like pulley but no super hard knot to untie when you put your rope away. That's what we used back on the farm hauling bales.
Thanks Pa Mac, great job with the cable . Has plenty of uses around the farm and buildings, safety is the big concern. Keep up the great videos around there and have fun next weekend. Fred.
As an ironworker (by trade) I can appreciate this subject. Shackles can secure even better than hooks. I use chokers daily so double wrapping can create a better bite that doesn’t allow it to slip. Braiding cable can help when you do not have cable clamps/u bolts ( crosby’s made in the USA is what I prefer) are what we use in the trade. Love this video!!!!! So glad you posted this. Again, As a certified rigger I am glad you produced this video. When using shackles always back that pin back a half round so the pin doesn’t get jammed!
Don't forget eyelets! When creased it causes a weak spot. Even if you pull a loop of it into a crease it can ruin the strength of it. Trees aren't pulleys, & cheap pulleys aren't pulleys. The chains at the ends give you lots of options. Watch the U bolts stay tight, I put 3 big ones on each end with lock washers & check tightness regularly. Finally DONT get up speed and SNAP on IT! The tension (tree plus tractor momentum) in the cable when a tractor gets speed and snaps on it, is far more than the load and likely the rating! TY
The "eyelets" being referred to are more commonly known as thimbles. Thimbles are metal reinforcements placed inside the loop or eye of a steel cable to prevent it from bending or creasing. Without a thimble, the cable can develop weak spots, reducing its overall strength and durability. A winch dampener or rope/cable damper can significantly reduce the risk of the cable whipping if it breaks. Place it midway along the length of the cable/rope. These are specially designed blankets or heavy-duty bags. The weight of the dampener helps slow down and absorb the energy of the whipping rope or cable if it breaks. If you don’t have a dedicated damper, at least throw some heavy items on like blankets or floor mats.
@@ErikLibertyI use thimbles also because after some pulling, the cable eye without thimble will stretch and become too tight to insert the tractor hitch pin
The loop in the eye prevents kinking more than wear. Repeated flexing in the same place weakens cables fast. Think of bending a paperclip back and forth in the same spot and it makes the reason for the thimble (proper name for the eye) easier to understand. Also, use a line damper. When a cable breaks it doesn't go limp like a chain will. A line damper can be a simple as a half full sand bag, but it deflects the cable toward the ground. That can literally save your life. If you've ever seen one cook off, it's pretty sobering.
I love your method for unloading those round bails of hay. I like 1/4" chains. They're strong enough for almost all of my pulling needs yet aren't nearly as cumbersome as the larger diameter chains. Something I keep on the tractor is an 8 foot chain with a ring on one end and a hook on the other along with a clevis.
Several years ago I made a wood gate for my driveway. Instead of putting one of those wheels on the end that opened I added a 3rd hinge on the post up high and used a thin wire rope that I cut in half, attached one end to the hinge and the other to an eye bolt that I put on the end of the gate that opened with a turnbuckle in the middle to keep it from sagging.
I become very fond of a tool called the more power puller,by the wyeth Scott company. Its a very heavy duty come a long type device that uses wire rope and it comes with a sheave block to redirect your pull when necessary. I use it in conjunction with chains or other cables to move large rocks,firewood logs,and unsticking vehicles. I think they come in 2 ton and 3 ton versions,very handy.
As a wire rope can whip badly if it breaks you should put a sack or tarp or heavy blanket across the cable. When the cable breaks the sack slows down the recoil in the cable and reduces the chance of injury.
PaMac, when my grand dad and uncle both were alive, they had a trick to get rid of those "frayed" ends. For wire rope or "cable" as most call it, nothing more than 1/2" is needed, 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" is far stronger than most give them credit for. I know there's a way to "tie" cables or wire rope together but, that's a bit more smarter than I am. For ratchet straps, go to TSC, they sell good one's that are reasonably priced and they work wonders, just mini come along. Great video as always, cheers :)
Great video as always keep up the great work i use a cables myself very carefully thou i seen one snap once and whip a tree near it and cut a nice groove and them nylon straps are nice but like you i fight with them and they get bullheaded and stop working then someone else gets them going for me lol have a great and safe day and god bless
i worked on a farm orchard for a few weeks and spent a lot of time installing steel cable supports on rows tensioned using these “gripple” things. Thought it was pretty nifty.
Synthetic cable is excellent for strength + length + safety (they do not recoil if something gives.) Much cheaper than steel cable ( which has its place. ) Thank you as always, PaMac.
the clamps u have r on wrong never sadle a dead horse the sadle it gives the wire a chance to slip through so if on the cut side might slip out on the live side if it slips it will only gett tighter ull see the meatal u digging into the wire that helps to hold it tight we used alot of wire to haul thing in the mines
when installing the clamps always mount the threaded side to the long side of the cable the U side to the short or cut end. if using more than 1 mount them all the same way, the U when tightened will bite into the cable stopping the slip, your flat side is only a support for the U portion
Overkill is good regarding safety. That's why I always use rings and shackles, not hooks. Especially for heavy loads, like towing or pulling a log. That's also why the cat-choker is used, it is much less likely to let go than a hook.
Last time I used a cable, I needed about 130 feet. 1 cable was 100', 2nd cable was about 30' and then a chain. I had to pull our old cow out of a swampy area when she died. We had trouble with dogs and we don't live at the pasture. Dogs pushed her into the deep water (3' with a boggy bottom) and she couldn't get out. It was a nice mess.
Know the dangers of cables, pulling with cables is extremely dangerous, never stand within the reach of a cable under tension, I lost a high skool classmate when the cable snapped and he was standing within the reach.
It's the same with rope too. Especially when you get to the larger diameters. I worked on the rivers for a bit, and heard stories of guys losing legs and hands from a snapped line. Just be careful!
you don't like ratchet straps?! blasphemy! I actually made a video about all the little details of them just a few weeks ago. You can check it out and tell me if you still don't like em
Amen and amen! Especially around a farm! Too many things you can't get a come along around. Ratchet straps are quick and versatile. You can get them rated into the thousands of pounds but the 400 lb straps (that's 181.4 techno-heavies for you Brits) can do most jobs. PS I saw your ratchet strap video a while back and it is good.
If I came to your house, and used your best ratchet strap, I can pretty much guarantee it would quit workin'. (Don't know why they hate me. I'm a pretty nice guy.)
Never saddled a dead horse!
You should have mentioned this good advice about cable clamps.
I sure didn't; but you did! and I'm sure glad!
Hey, just wanted to mention something that might help! When using cable clamps, it’s important to ‘never saddle a dead horse’ - meaning the saddle should go on the working end of the cable, not the loose (dead) end. It helps keep the connection strong and safe! Just thought I’d share in case it’s helpful. 🙂
I just learned that saying in rigging class last week.
Well someone should have told me that saying by now. Its amazing all of the little things you miss
When i worked the drilling rigs years ago we always used two clamps, but faced the saddles opposite so they would "lock in together" . I've seen the cable snap before the clamps slipped with this setup.
Thanks PaMac. Could you maybe do a video about a few basic knots every farmer should know? With some detailed (close up shots) instructions. I think rope and twine are some of the most important tools on a farm or even in life in general. Definitely one of my favorites, probably one of yours too. 😊 💕
Sure will; coming up, so stay tuned
0:26 Looks like you could use the Wagoneers Hitch, it has an upper and lower loop. Works the same as you have like pulley but no super hard knot to untie when you put your rope away. That's what we used back on the farm hauling bales.
Thanks Pa Mac, great job with the cable . Has plenty of uses around the farm and buildings, safety is the big concern. Keep up the great videos around there and have fun next weekend. Fred.
I enjoyed your revelation about buying cheap. The look on your face felt familiar. "Maybe it's been me the whole time"! ;)
As an ironworker (by trade) I can appreciate this subject. Shackles can secure even better than hooks. I use chokers daily so double wrapping can create a better bite that doesn’t allow it to slip. Braiding cable can help when you do not have cable clamps/u bolts ( crosby’s made in the USA is what I prefer) are what we use in the trade. Love this video!!!!! So glad you posted this. Again, As a certified rigger I am glad you produced this video. When using shackles always back that pin back a half round so the pin doesn’t get jammed!
Thank you, and great advice, cubsadventures2172
Don't forget eyelets! When creased it causes a weak spot. Even if you pull a loop of it into a crease it can ruin the strength of it. Trees aren't pulleys, & cheap pulleys aren't pulleys. The chains at the ends give you lots of options. Watch the U bolts stay tight, I put 3 big ones on each end with lock washers & check tightness regularly. Finally DONT get up speed and SNAP on IT! The tension (tree plus tractor momentum) in the cable when a tractor gets speed and snaps on it, is far more than the load and likely the rating! TY
The "eyelets" being referred to are more commonly known as thimbles. Thimbles are metal reinforcements placed inside the loop or eye of a steel cable to prevent it from bending or creasing. Without a thimble, the cable can develop weak spots, reducing its overall strength and durability.
A winch dampener or rope/cable damper can significantly reduce the risk of the cable whipping if it breaks. Place it midway along the length of the cable/rope. These are specially designed blankets or heavy-duty bags. The weight of the dampener helps slow down and absorb the energy of the whipping rope or cable if it breaks. If you don’t have a dedicated damper, at least throw some heavy items on like blankets or floor mats.
@@ErikLibertyI use thimbles also because after some pulling, the cable eye without thimble will stretch and become too tight to insert the tractor hitch pin
The loop in the eye prevents kinking more than wear. Repeated flexing in the same place weakens cables fast. Think of bending a paperclip back and forth in the same spot and it makes the reason for the thimble (proper name for the eye) easier to understand. Also, use a line damper. When a cable breaks it doesn't go limp like a chain will. A line damper can be a simple as a half full sand bag, but it deflects the cable toward the ground. That can literally save your life. If you've ever seen one cook off, it's pretty sobering.
I love your method for unloading those round bails of hay. I like 1/4" chains. They're strong enough for almost all of my pulling needs yet aren't nearly as cumbersome as the larger diameter chains. Something I keep on the tractor is an 8 foot chain with a ring on one end and a hook on the other along with a clevis.
Yes, I keep two chains on my tractor too; and absolutely, the rings are another great option to have on the end of a chain or cable.
Several years ago I made a wood gate for my driveway. Instead of putting one of those wheels on the end that opened I added a 3rd hinge on the post up high and used a thin wire rope that I cut in half, attached one end to the hinge and the other to an eye bolt that I put on the end of the gate that opened with a turnbuckle in the middle to keep it from sagging.
Great episode, thank you for making these.
You betcha, Douglas!
Cordage is the most overlooked tool we have.
I become very fond of a tool called the more power puller,by the wyeth Scott company. Its a very heavy duty come a long type device that uses wire rope and it comes with a sheave block to redirect your pull when necessary. I use it in conjunction with chains or other cables to move large rocks,firewood logs,and unsticking vehicles. I think they come in 2 ton and 3 ton versions,very handy.
Very informative!
As a wire rope can whip badly if it breaks you should put a sack or tarp or heavy blanket across the cable. When the cable breaks the sack slows down the recoil in the cable and reduces the chance of injury.
That's a really great tip, Anthony!
Thank you!
PaMac, when my grand dad and uncle both were alive, they had a trick to get rid of those "frayed" ends. For wire rope or "cable" as most call it, nothing more than 1/2" is needed, 3/8", 5/16" and 1/4" is far stronger than most give them credit for. I know there's a way to "tie" cables or wire rope together but, that's a bit more smarter than I am.
For ratchet straps, go to TSC, they sell good one's that are reasonably priced and they work wonders, just mini come along. Great video as always, cheers :)
Great video and the comment are a treasure of ideas, also.
Great video as always keep up the great work i use a cables myself very carefully thou i seen one snap once and whip a tree near it and cut a nice groove and them nylon straps are nice but like you i fight with them and they get bullheaded and stop working then someone else gets them going for me lol have a great and safe day and god bless
i worked on a farm orchard for a few weeks and spent a lot of time installing steel cable supports on rows tensioned using these “gripple” things. Thought it was pretty nifty.
Synthetic cable is excellent for strength + length + safety (they do not recoil if something gives.) Much cheaper than steel cable ( which has its place. ) Thank you as always, PaMac.
Whenever I see a froe working like that in the intro I wonder how the handle can take the stress.🤗😮🤗
the clamps u have r on wrong never sadle a dead horse the sadle it gives the wire a chance to slip through so if on the cut side might slip out on the live side if it slips it will only gett tighter ull see the meatal u digging into the wire that helps to hold it tight we used alot of wire to haul thing in the mines
For cord ends I use heat shrink. This might work on the cable when cutting.
Very cool 🙌
when installing the clamps always mount the threaded side to the long side of the cable the U side to the short or cut end. if using more than 1 mount them all the same way, the U when tightened will bite into the cable stopping the slip, your flat side is only a support for the U portion
It’s so easy to make a farmer eye in your cable. Using clamps seams real hoky
Overkill is good regarding safety. That's why I always use rings and shackles, not hooks. Especially for heavy loads, like towing or pulling a log. That's also why the cat-choker is used, it is much less likely to let go than a hook.
Would like some tips on skidding logs with a small tractor with no A frame or other adaptions. Thanks.
By no A frame, do you mean no 3-point hitch attachments, etc, that are dedicated to skidding?
Last time I used a cable, I needed about 130 feet. 1 cable was 100', 2nd cable was about 30' and then a chain. I had to pull our old cow out of a swampy area when she died. We had trouble with dogs and we don't live at the pasture. Dogs pushed her into the deep water (3' with a boggy bottom) and she couldn't get out. It was a nice mess.
Know the dangers of cables, pulling with cables is extremely dangerous, never stand within the reach of a cable under tension, I lost a high skool classmate when the cable snapped and he was standing within the reach.
It's the same with rope too. Especially when you get to the larger diameters. I worked on the rivers for a bit, and heard stories of guys losing legs and hands from a snapped line. Just be careful!
👍🏽
What are your favorite farm knots?
Great question, cpthoward; I'm gonna answer it in an upcoming Q & A
👍🤠
👍
you don't like ratchet straps?! blasphemy!
I actually made a video about all the little details of them just a few weeks ago. You can check it out and tell me if you still don't like em
Amen and amen! Especially around a farm! Too many things you can't get a come along around. Ratchet straps are quick and versatile. You can get them rated into the thousands of pounds but the 400 lb straps (that's 181.4 techno-heavies for you Brits) can do most jobs. PS I saw your ratchet strap video a while back and it is good.
If I came to your house, and used your best ratchet strap, I can pretty much guarantee it would quit workin'.
(Don't know why they hate me. I'm a pretty nice guy.)
@@farmhandscompanion haha yeah I know that feeling for some tools
@@KnowArt Keep up the great videos, KnowArt!
@@farmhandscompanion you too!
you can rove an eye