Folks let's all take a moment to appreicate the time it takes Kevin to prep, film, and edit while doing an install or modification. I can't imagine the extra time it adds to the install process. Very clear and easy to follow on small parts like the intake to this one. Can't wait to see where you take your red rocket next, it's coming along great!
I feel privileged to be here this early on a future big channel. Dudes videos are super high quality. Angles are on point, dude isnt camera shy. Keep up the good work! 🔥
So I'm not interested in gutting my FRS or anything nearly like what you're doing, but this video was awesome to just see the whole process should I ever have a need to get into the details of taking the interior apart. This video is great for the purposes of thinking about future stereo modifications or sound proofing... Thank you for getting into this process for us!
I haven't yet. In all reality, I'm not going to be saving much weight because the roll bar itself will offset most of it. I'm doing it more for the safety aspect. I need to replace the passenger seat though, that'll save a decent amount of weight since I still have the stock one.
You should learn how to weld. It's fun and relatively easy to do (difficult to master though). At least you guys have the right tools available which is a huge leg up.
When you drilled out the bolts, did you have to use any special bits? I'm drilling mine out right now and it's having trouble going through the part after the head of the e-torx bolt.
Safer in what way? The stock seat and seatbelt does not hold you in well when you're driving at the limit on track. A proper bucket seat, harness, and roll bar allows you to focus on trying while not being tossed around. It'll also provides rollover protection. Roll bars just like this one have been used in countless applications.
@@KevinVo Mariner is referring to being upside down and the collapse of the roof/a-pillar in that event. The roll hoop provides some rollover protection but using a 5pt/6pt harness doesn't allow the driver's head/body the freedom of movement and therefore a collapse of the roof/a-pillar means the head and neck are subjected to those forces - and the collapse of the roof/a-pillar can still happen even with a roll bar. Many folks argue that it's safer to use the bucket seat to keep you in place while using the 3pt OEM belts so you have some freedom of movement just in case you're "squeezed from above". It's hard to find data to properly quantify this which is why the debate still rages on. If you were going "full racecar" you would have a full welded in cage especially if you're removing air bags and eliminating front/side impact protections.
@@KevinVo Personally, no. I have extracted myself from a racecar while upside along with few hard collisions I walked away from and I would not have wanted to do any of them with only a 4pt cage - getting out of a fully caged race car upside down, even in optimal conditions is a pain in the ass. Because there's no official testing of this type of crash dynamic (like how production cars are crash tested for things like overlap), there is little firm quantifiable data and this is why the debate around 3pt vs 5pt belts when combined with 4pt roll hoop lingers on (for decades). You'll have to make the call for yourself, I'm not in the business of your safety, I just wanted to point out why people bring it up why it's a valid debate. It falls into the "it depends" category as the nature of the crash could dictate the value of the option: upside down with collapsed roof? - probably better for 3pt so you spine has somewhere to go, but Head on collision with a wall with a 5pt and a HANS - probably best to have a 5pt. Since the interior is out and you're "going full race car" - you might as well go "Full cage" since technically "full racecars" require them. I hope you do go "full cage" and ultimately join us in some W2W racing because your videos are great and you've been a fantastic resource for folks on this platform. Keep up the good work Kevin.
Folks let's all take a moment to appreicate the time it takes Kevin to prep, film, and edit while doing an install or modification. I can't imagine the extra time it adds to the install process. Very clear and easy to follow on small parts like the intake to this one. Can't wait to see where you take your red rocket next, it's coming along great!
Thank you for the appreciation and support! Couldn't do it without viewers like you!
I feel privileged to be here this early on a future big channel. Dudes videos are super high quality. Angles are on point, dude isnt camera shy. Keep up the good work! 🔥
You don't understand how much these comments mean to me! Thank you so much for the support!
The blue on that new GR86 is Hottttt!
It looks so good!
It's about time!
So I'm not interested in gutting my FRS or anything nearly like what you're doing, but this video was awesome to just see the whole process should I ever have a need to get into the details of taking the interior apart. This video is great for the purposes of thinking about future stereo modifications or sound proofing... Thank you for getting into this process for us!
Thanks for the support!!!
Thank you for doing this video! I will going through the exact same process this spring with my 2013 FRS
Thanks for watching!
Keep up the great work man
Thank you!
Really cool content. Keep it up.
Appreciate it!
Great content as always!
Appreciate the support!
We can't wait to get our hands on the new chassis and start offering all those mods!
She gonna be light
Great job! Have you weighed all the parts being removed to see how much weight saved?
I haven't yet. In all reality, I'm not going to be saving much weight because the roll bar itself will offset most of it. I'm doing it more for the safety aspect. I need to replace the passenger seat though, that'll save a decent amount of weight since I still have the stock one.
Saw your instagram story on this and thought you were just deep cleaning lmao
Oh don't worry I'm doing a lot of cleaning too! haha
Take the dash out!!! 😂
If clubtr allowed it I'd completely gut it hahaha
You should learn how to weld. It's fun and relatively easy to do (difficult to master though). At least you guys have the right tools available which is a huge leg up.
Hmmm, one of my goals for this year was to learn something new so who knows maybe I will give it a try!
@@KevinVo Might make for some new/different content too! I'm sure some of your viewers would like to learn as well.
When you drilled out the bolts, did you have to use any special bits? I'm drilling mine out right now and it's having trouble going through the part after the head of the e-torx bolt.
I used a bit that was specifically meant to drilled hard steel. I would also suggest using some cutting oil.
I just rediscovered Kevin's channel and now I'm behind..
New content every week!
Leaving the stock seat and seatbelts is way safer vs that one rollbar and a harness.
Safer in what way? The stock seat and seatbelt does not hold you in well when you're driving at the limit on track. A proper bucket seat, harness, and roll bar allows you to focus on trying while not being tossed around. It'll also provides rollover protection. Roll bars just like this one have been used in countless applications.
Remember this car is no longer street driven. Agree to this point if street driven but pure track car is not the case.
@@KevinVo Mariner is referring to being upside down and the collapse of the roof/a-pillar in that event. The roll hoop provides some rollover protection but using a 5pt/6pt harness doesn't allow the driver's head/body the freedom of movement and therefore a collapse of the roof/a-pillar means the head and neck are subjected to those forces - and the collapse of the roof/a-pillar can still happen even with a roll bar. Many folks argue that it's safer to use the bucket seat to keep you in place while using the 3pt OEM belts so you have some freedom of movement just in case you're "squeezed from above". It's hard to find data to properly quantify this which is why the debate still rages on. If you were going "full racecar" you would have a full welded in cage especially if you're removing air bags and eliminating front/side impact protections.
Do you have any cases where a properly welded roll bar has failed and a driver been crushed?
@@KevinVo Personally, no. I have extracted myself from a racecar while upside along with few hard collisions I walked away from and I would not have wanted to do any of them with only a 4pt cage - getting out of a fully caged race car upside down, even in optimal conditions is a pain in the ass.
Because there's no official testing of this type of crash dynamic (like how production cars are crash tested for things like overlap), there is little firm quantifiable data and this is why the debate around 3pt vs 5pt belts when combined with 4pt roll hoop lingers on (for decades). You'll have to make the call for yourself, I'm not in the business of your safety, I just wanted to point out why people bring it up why it's a valid debate. It falls into the "it depends" category as the nature of the crash could dictate the value of the option: upside down with collapsed roof? - probably better for 3pt so you spine has somewhere to go, but Head on collision with a wall with a 5pt and a HANS - probably best to have a 5pt.
Since the interior is out and you're "going full race car" - you might as well go "Full cage" since technically "full racecars" require them. I hope you do go "full cage" and ultimately join us in some W2W racing because your videos are great and you've been a fantastic resource for folks on this platform. Keep up the good work Kevin.