These are gold for a beginner like me. Same with the Build with Blake series. And I mean literally, things that could become expensive quite fast otherwise.
At first i didn't like him that much, he had a bit of a grumpy grandpa feel from the outside, now he feels like that legendary retiree who shreds and helps thoose unaware.
Doddy...what an absolute unit of a man. He's basically that cool science teacher who's so into his craft even the dropouts are paying attention. Also at the end of class he gives you back the pack of cigarettes that fell from your jacket saying "I won't tell your father but please stop before you get cancer"
Funny how much mr. Gmbn tech wholeheartedly admits his many maintenance faults in these videos. Good to know you're just as normal as the rest of us doddy!
Look after your pedals! If they come loose you possibly won‘t notice it until it is too late and the thread in the cranks is ruined. Cost me a very expensive XTR crank last year.
If you are injecting sealant through the valve before you put the core back in attach your pump and give it a couple of pumps with the valve in a position where sealant will not flow back in. This will push the sealant out of the valve and possible increase the amount of time you get before it plugs up.
" have you ever had a strange creaking occuring at the back end you couldn't figure out?" Mate! Thats expected at my age and it's not mechanical! Just ignore it and ride! 😁
After adding sealant through the valve, I use a pipe cleaner to get the sealant cleaned out before I install the valve. Much fewer issues with clogged valves this way.
What I do is inject sealant through the valve, then put the valve at 9 o'clock while I blast air through it with a pump or compressor, so the sealant sprays through and drips away from the valve.
@@mattgies thats exactly what i do...give the open valve (with the core still removed) a blast of air. I usually just switch heads and hit it with the air nozzle.
The bolt check is such an overlooked thing. My main pivot was loose and my whole rear triangle would flex left and right like crazy. Really unsettling feeling when riding. Also the drops outs definitely keep checking those 😂
Agree, this christmas i thought one of the shock bolts had grown a worn area and now had some play on it. Turns out it was loose and i had been running it like that for a month risking the damage i feared i had! Never again!
Just picked up our bikes from our LBS. They did a complete tune and maintenance check. Good for us and good for them I hope. I’m sure most shops need some business since they are running out of bikes to sell.
I love these videos especially as someone who is just learning to work on their bike ☺. I have to say I am guilty of these, although yesterday I did take my bike apart fully clean and regrease and put it pack together. I even took out all the pivot bolts and bearings etc. I should really change my tyre sealent though, so today's job is clean the inside of my tyre and put fresh sealent in there. Thanks Doddy ☺
Just a heads up for anyone with a newer fox fork, the axle has an 4mm hex nut at the opposite end of the lever and is adjusted with the lever 90 degrees open then tightening or loosing that nut.
After all the frame bolts are torqued I index the bolt to the frame with a fine tip paint pen. After a ride if the marks are lined up the bolt is still properly torqued.
I strongly agree with Doddy on the last one, quick release lever orientation. I've seen SO many people riding around with them stick straight out, like a bayonet 😂😂. I always make my levers are in the right position. Also, don't forget the rear lever! Sometimes I'll see people with them stock straight down...
According to RockShocks, you can place the maxle lever either straight back or straight up. I place mine up. Keeps it mostly behind the fork leg for a little bit more protection.
@GMBNTech I marked all of my suspension bolts with silver sharpie at 90 degrees across the bolt. This way, I can tell with a quick look if any of my bolts have loosened. This keeps me from having to put a torque wrench on them to check and potentially breaking the thread lock bond in the process. I still remove completely, lube and re-threadlock a couple times a year. I then remove the old lines with a bit of acetone and remark them. It is cheap insurance. If one of those bolts works loose, it can damage your frame. The bolts themselves are also quite expensive if you lose them...
That’s a great tip! Talking from experience 🙄 those bolts are quite expensive and sometimes difficult to find, depending on the manufacturer of your bike. I check my bolts after every ride nowadays, but that’s not a bad idea..
Dang. Here in the PNW it is imperative to keep everything greased and lubed on a regular basis. Like he said, it is a water barrier. Works wonders. (I use marine grease). Also, when cleaning off your dirty axle, don't forget to clean the receiving end on the bike. Does you no good to clean only half of the assembly!
I pull out my brake pads fairly often and give them a spray with isopropyl alcohol and wipe all the dirt off, they get rather dirty. Even do a light sanding if necessary (due to poor conditions, salt, etc.). Also can clean out the calipers/pistons every so often by giving them a spray and wiping down with towel.
6:37 I use stan's notubes race sealant and change it, at the very least, every 3 months, or if I stop hearing it slosh around/have a slow puncture. First day of January, of April etc... and yes, it congeals and sounds like you have a rock inside the tire sometimes. The race sealant variant has a lot of fibers and what not so it fills up holes really well, but that also counts for the valve cores and it can be a pain to get it inside the tire through a syringe.
My shifter was wobbly and so I looked down at the shifter housing and I was missing an entire mounting bolt! I check my cockpit bolts pretty much every other ride, just a quick twist of the multitool and it's peace of mind and shredding! (luckily my LBS was able to get one from Shimano in a couple days, why I'll always buy a bike from an LBS)
I made that mistake of not checking my bolts with my rear thru axle. I torqued it up, but I was careless enough to believe that it couldn’t really come loose on the trail. I was out night riding with one of my buddies when it started to come loose. My shifting got worse and worse so I thought it was something like a bent derailleur. While I was climbing up a hill, I heard a loud grinding noise from the back of my bike. I saw that it was my rear hub that made the noise and that’s when I realized it was toasted. I had to ride all the way back home with my pedals oscillating with the hub. When I got home and opened it up, the whole inside was torn up and that’s when I knew it was toasted. The only good thing that came out of it was an upgraded hub: The industry nine hydra. I love the new hub, but it cost me a good $600 to get my bike back up and running. The lesson learned is to always check your bolts before a ride, and if something seems a little off on the trail, check your bolts.
The only thing I had to deal with valve core being clogged Stan's sealant, and greasing the ball bearings on the headset so the bearings don't fall off easily. Doddy explained all of my problems I have on my hardtail.
In the manual that came with my bike, for Pike RC, it said to have the Maxle QR lever pointed up, parallel with the angle of the fork leg. And in the back, parallel with the angle of the seat stay.
If I had a colleague like Doddy I would leave my levers in the wrong position too. Chances are he will adjust it quickly, and at the same time fix all the bigger issues my bike has... ;-)
On spokes rubbing, you might not like the sound, but if spokes cross, they should be touching, it helps them distribute the load evenly, don't try to prevent them from touching
@gmbntech #feedback Doddy, what impeccable timing! I had a awful noise coming from what I could of sworn was BB. I couldn’t remove gx crank as the extraction bolt had decided to go it’s own way and you can’t get a new m30 bolt anyway right now. I didn’t think it was anything loose at back end as only torqued everything in feb. Decided to re-check after the show and found the culprit. One chainstay bolt had come loose, re-torqued and hey presto dreadful noise has gone. THANKYOU. You had better check your new spectral 29er too!!!
I use a fine paint pen to mark a line across fasteners and frame or whatever, so it's obvious if one has moved - ie. is coming loose. Very quick and easy to check pre-ride (though I generally 'see' them when cleaning the bike anyway). Need refreshing every so often, but only takes minutes. Of course it's not very pretty and if you are more into looks and fashion than function this will be fearsomely impossible to tolerate. But I'm an engineer and the bike is equipment that I expect to be reliable.
I haven't been able to get my forks/steerer out.. I remove the stem and there's some spacers which come off.. I think a little dust cover and then.. it's just rock solid i tap it with the rubber mallet but it doesn't move so I give up 🙃 it's a 2016ish Cannondale quick hybrid with the alu frame and carbon forks. I'll take it to the LBS I suppose if they open again. 😕
I know it might be difficult, but I'd wish for videos like this where gmbn explains certain systems like through axles, there would be every axle from major players. There isn't that many of them, but presenting rock shox and fox all the time just makes it more difficult for RST, Manitou, X-Fusion, SR Suntour to raise awareness about their proper suspension products even existing. And this way the 2-way monopoly keeps on growing (duopoly?) I'm pretty sure some of the brand's would actually send theirs axles or even forks if asked for by gmbn.
I like to clean my valve stems out with a cotton bud after I've filled through the valve, does a little to help stop the valves getting gummed up when you put them back in.
Another thing people tend to miss is pedals Me personally had to put new cranks because some pedals got stuck 😅 defenitely put grease and clean them from time to time now.
Excellent video, one thing you might consider though, if you have bolts repeatedly getting loose on your full suspension bike, most likely the bearings are seized. I was surprised to the amount of seized bearings I found after one (one!!) Bikepark Season on my DH. Especially when manufacturers save money and mount no-name cheap bearings. Also mark the bolts using a paint marker, so you don't have to torque check them.... If the paint is cracked, the bolt is loose... #gmbntech #askgmbntech
doing DH is really harsh on the bike, thoose are the ones that really need an eye up close because of the very extreme conditions, especially good riders capable of pushing limits
I am one of those guys that just lost a piece of suspension hardware on the trail. Where do I pick up this stuff? Surely their is Manuf that makes all this stuff. I lost the collared (2 tier) cylindrical shaped nut from the pivot where my chain stay attaches to seat stay. I live in US. LBS had no clue.
Or, you could run tubes and avoid all those issues. Zero punctures with Ritchey WCS on my MTB and Gravelking SKs on gravel bike. At low pressure. Or on my tubulars when racing.
The Fox lever and nut shown at 18:15 are NOT the type where you make the angle adjustment by turning the captive nut. The captive nut shown in that clip has only one position it can be attached, and they are supplied with a lever that can have its tension adjusted by putting a hex wrench into a screw in the middle of the threaded end.
Tip with spokes. Use different colored electrical tape on the spokes you are working on. As you rotate your wheel around to check it's easy to lose track of which spoke is which. Then you play "The monkey chases the weasel" as you tighten and loosen the wrong ones. Not everyone can do this, but I prefer to support my local bike shop with this repair. Once a year for the riding I do works well.
Hi Doddy! Any tip about cleaning the old layer of sealant from tires and rims? Warm water and brush is the only way or there is any "magic product" on the market?
For grease as a barrier, I use anti-seize. Its thick as fuck and sticks in place. You'll not need to service your headset till the end of the season. Not because it's dirty, but because you've got to tear your bike down once a year anyway. I abuse my bikes with a high pressure sprayer so I've tested it.
Yea, me too, I don't like checking wheel and headset bearings, mainly because after disassembly 90% of the time they are fine, and I just wasted my time.
It's all about the rider and not the bike. You could consider a full suspension MTB a total overkill for urban environment, but if you watch Fabio Wibmer videos you will see that it makes perfect sense to use a DH MTB in the city :)
Can anything be done about creaky saddles? It sounds like the BB is dying up every hill but the bike is silent as soon as I stand up. This is with WTB saddles on two of my bikes and they both creak the same way. I've tried spraying silicone lube (Should be less hard on the plastic) where the saddle rails meet the plastic base of the saddle and greasing up the saddle clamp at the seatpost in case this is the issue, but it doesn't make much difference (And there's no sign of movement in the clamp either). I don't think it's the dropper post bushing as I have a KS on one bike and a Thomson on the other and the sound is exactly the same. Similarly I don't think it's the seatpost/frame contact either as that is well coated with anti-seize.
@@rusty2222 I'm already using that where the seatpost touches the frame and in the clamp on the rails. There's no good way to get it between the saddle rails and the plastic body of the saddle where the noise seems to be coming from though.
I have the same issue with my saddle. It's from the saddle flexing under your weight. I constantly have to shift my weight around a little before the creaking stops. Thinking of getting a new saddle just to stop going crazy.
I have some weird question - should you put some grease on spoke nipples? When I set wheel tension in my old junker I notice after 2 year riding some corrosion on nipples and spokes thread..
I put my Fox lever in that correct position on a new fork and caught it on a rock, punching the lever hard enough to push a hole in the lowers! I now run all my levers in the Rockshox position to avoid this happening again.
Ive slammed my rear wheel on the ground hard enough for the QR lever to open by itself. I was more surprised my tyre didnt take a puncture or rim took any damage.
UK slang, "tyre bogeys" I love it, does the US mob even know what a "bogey" is? Being Australian we have some common terms, I still remember Fungus the Bogeyman!
@@teundrumhead A bogey is the same as a booger is a piece of dried mucus that comes from inside your nose. Hence "tyre bogeys". Tyre boogers is interchangeable :)
Iv just got a brand new fuel ex 9.7. Should I re-grease up all the pivot points and bearings or should they be good to go, as I know ppl that always grease up a new bike!!
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy, because of annoying creaking sound while pedaling I just replaced BB and crankset on my aluminum hardtail (Sram DUB BSA and NX crank): at first ride it’s just creaking only under high load, pedaling both sit or stand up on pedals. I cleaned and regreased frame, BB, crankset and pedals bolts, tightened with correct torque. When reinstalling I noticed many grains of dust into the frame BB thread and tried to clean it as good as possible using WD40, a clean rag and toothbrush. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks a lot
applied very little pressure to my rear shock bolt a few days ago, there was the slightest resistance then it was spinning in place, the head had come off the inner bolt which I suspect was caused by a worn flip chip, can't get a replacement until the end of next month so using a brake caliper bolt and shaped a washer to fit in the meantime.........is that a bodge? #AskGMBN
#ask gmbn tech I got a brand new scott ransom and my headset makes terrible cracking noises. I'm in holiday with my new beauty right now. Can I risk it to use it like this for one week and let it check when I'm back home? Or is this urgent?
It's happening allover the place! I'm in the middle of building up a bike, had a list of parts links ready to pull the trigger, but half of'em have run out of stock across different shops - same response everywhere: _"waiting for overseas shipments!"_
Rubbing alcohol and 3M scrub pad to rotors. Then take out and clean pads, or just replace as they are cheap. I usually use rubbing alcohol and a bit of fine sandpaper and try and remove the contamination layer. Make sure to always use a clean spot and rinse frequently. You can use brake cleaner as well for both if you need something stronger.
I always wandered how sealant doesn't immediately start to dry the moment you inflate the tyre, just after the tubeless installation. I thought sealant activates with air (from a puncture)
I guess that it technically does, but it doesn't dry completely and once the air is damp enough from the sealant, it only dries as it comes out. Pressure differentials could also play a role with this
My headset keeps clicking badly when pedalling hard as I drop In, I’ve tightened everything and realised the lower headset bearing had some scores on it, could it be loose, some dirt?
@@jaydunn2898 Had the same problem with a "new" headset and I just cleaned the outside of the bearings, cleaned the inside of the frame and just put new grease in there. Very easy and in the end it works like new.
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy. I realized you have the bikes hanging on the wall verticaly. I use to do the same until I was told by my local bike shop not to hang the in that way, insted always to be horizotal to the ground. The reason was for the bakes, as they felt later like having air inside or missing oil. How true is that? Thank you.
It is true, reason being the air gets to the top of the brakes where you can feel it. Vertically has the benefit of re-lubing your inners in your fork.
@@erickmtz11 well vertically with a slight overhang so all the fluids lube your seals. The air in your brakes will rise up, but see this as a chance to bleed them
I gotta say doddy makes some of my favorite videos
Better than blake tho... IDK
Doddy is a deadset legend!!!!
He explains things so well that a dumb dumb like me has a chance to understand 🤪
These are gold for a beginner like me. Same with the Build with Blake series. And I mean literally, things that could become expensive quite fast otherwise.
At first i didn't like him that much, he had a bit of a grumpy grandpa feel from the outside, now he feels like that legendary retiree who shreds and helps thoose unaware.
Doddy...what an absolute unit of a man. He's basically that cool science teacher who's so into his craft even the dropouts are paying attention. Also at the end of class he gives you back the pack of cigarettes that fell from your jacket saying "I won't tell your father but please stop before you get cancer"
this sounds way too specific, i bet you had a fun science class
Dude, if you tell me you're spanish i'd bet my ass that i know who you're talking about, because that teacher is a goddamn saint
Big up doddy for all the work he does to keep us riding
Love gmbn
dude this made me double check every thing and one of my bolts that hold my rear shock was loose thanks man saved me from a expensive problem.
Funny how much mr. Gmbn tech wholeheartedly admits his many maintenance faults in these videos. Good to know you're just as normal as the rest of us doddy!
Look after your pedals! If they come loose you possibly won‘t notice it until it is too late and the thread in the cranks is ruined. Cost me a very expensive XTR crank last year.
Same as your cleats if you ride clipped in! Learned that the hard way...
You may want to add the freehub to the maintenance list. The ratchet mechanism needs oil occasionally.
Not on a hope pro4, rode my bike for 3 years in all the nasty UK weather every weekend without touching it once 😅
@@dicksplatts007 my hope pro 4 trials is 2 months old you wouldn't believe the crap in it
If you are injecting sealant through the valve before you put the core back in attach your pump and give it a couple of pumps with the valve in a position where sealant will not flow back in. This will push the sealant out of the valve and possible increase the amount of time you get before it plugs up.
Good tip. Hadn't thought of using the pump before. Thanks
I add triflow to my valve cores. Treating the inside of your steel bike frame is one that no one mentions.
" have you ever had a strange creaking occuring at the back end you couldn't figure out?"
Mate! Thats expected at my age and it's not mechanical! Just ignore it and ride! 😁
After adding sealant through the valve, I use a pipe cleaner to get the sealant cleaned out before I install the valve. Much fewer issues with clogged valves this way.
What I do is inject sealant through the valve, then put the valve at 9 o'clock while I blast air through it with a pump or compressor, so the sealant sprays through and drips away from the valve.
@@mattgies thats exactly what i do...give the open valve (with the core still removed) a blast of air. I usually just switch heads and hit it with the air nozzle.
@@scotth1362 Yep, that'll do it!
The bolt check is such an overlooked thing. My main pivot was loose and my whole rear triangle would flex left and right like crazy. Really unsettling feeling when riding. Also the drops outs definitely keep checking those 😂
Agree, this christmas i thought one of the shock bolts had grown a worn area and now had some play on it. Turns out it was loose and i had been running it like that for a month risking the damage i feared i had! Never again!
Any trouble with my bike ,I go to Doddys videos free off charge thank you so much best channel ever!!😃👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thank you so much for the support! It's great having awesome supporters of the channel! 👍
Just picked up our bikes from our LBS. They did a complete tune and maintenance check. Good for us and good for them I hope. I’m sure most shops need some business since they are running out of bikes to sell.
I love these videos especially as someone who is just learning to work on their bike ☺. I have to say I am guilty of these, although yesterday I did take my bike apart fully clean and regrease and put it pack together. I even took out all the pivot bolts and bearings etc. I should really change my tyre sealent though, so today's job is clean the inside of my tyre and put fresh sealent in there. Thanks Doddy ☺
Thanks doddy. Love your videos; they've helped me out a grip
Just a heads up for anyone with a newer fox fork, the axle has an 4mm hex nut at the opposite end of the lever and is adjusted with the lever 90 degrees open then tightening or loosing that nut.
After all the frame bolts are torqued I index the bolt to the frame with a fine tip paint pen. After a ride if the marks are lined up the bolt is still properly torqued.
BuT wHaT iF tHe BoLt HaS mAgIcAlLy TuRnEd OnE fUlL rOtAtIoN?
Doddy - what a man
I strongly agree with Doddy on the last one, quick release lever orientation. I've seen SO many people riding around with them stick straight out, like a bayonet 😂😂. I always make my levers are in the right position. Also, don't forget the rear lever! Sometimes I'll see people with them stock straight down...
According to RockShocks, you can place the maxle lever either straight back or straight up. I place mine up. Keeps it mostly behind the fork leg for a little bit more protection.
@GMBNTech I marked all of my suspension bolts with silver sharpie at 90 degrees across the bolt. This way, I can tell with a quick look if any of my bolts have loosened. This keeps me from having to put a torque wrench on them to check and potentially breaking the thread lock bond in the process. I still remove completely, lube and re-threadlock a couple times a year. I then remove the old lines with a bit of acetone and remark them. It is cheap insurance. If one of those bolts works loose, it can damage your frame. The bolts themselves are also quite expensive if you lose them...
That’s a great tip! Talking from experience 🙄 those bolts are quite expensive and sometimes difficult to find, depending on the manufacturer of your bike. I check my bolts after every ride nowadays, but that’s not a bad idea..
I've had the worst clicking noise for months and blamed it on the pressfit bb, turns out my rear thru axle was fully dry and needed some grease.
Dang. Here in the PNW it is imperative to keep everything greased and lubed on a regular basis. Like he said, it is a water barrier. Works wonders. (I use marine grease).
Also, when cleaning off your dirty axle, don't forget to clean the receiving end on the bike. Does you no good to clean only half of the assembly!
man its always the pressfit bb😂
Wow, very helpful. I didn't know that the thru-axle "tight" position was adjustable. Thanks!
2:45 "If you are trying to depress the valve (da presta valve)" ahhh i see what you did there! 😂😂😂😎
I pull out my brake pads fairly often and give them a spray with isopropyl alcohol and wipe all the dirt off, they get rather dirty. Even do a light sanding if necessary (due to poor conditions, salt, etc.). Also can clean out the calipers/pistons every so often by giving them a spray and wiping down with towel.
I honestly believe that Presta valves are meaningless nowdays. The rims are so wide so Schrader valves fit and they dont clog that easily.
I think the same , presta sucks and breaks with hand pumps
Presta valves will just cause more maintenance and parts to adapt on but with a schrader it's just plug and play.
Yes!! Kill Presta! So annoying breaking that shitty valve core and buying tubes just for the spares!
Without threads on the outside for the nut, how would schrader valve be held to the rim for tubeless??
@@GHinWI There are schrader valves with locknuts you can buy.
5:06 Nice personalized pick Doddy. Love the videos.
6:37 I use stan's notubes race sealant and change it, at the very least, every 3 months, or if I stop hearing it slosh around/have a slow puncture. First day of January, of April etc... and yes, it congeals and sounds like you have a rock inside the tire sometimes. The race sealant variant has a lot of fibers and what not so it fills up holes really well, but that also counts for the valve cores and it can be a pain to get it inside the tire through a syringe.
My shifter was wobbly and so I looked down at the shifter housing and I was missing an entire mounting bolt! I check my cockpit bolts pretty much every other ride, just a quick twist of the multitool and it's peace of mind and shredding! (luckily my LBS was able to get one from Shimano in a couple days, why I'll always buy a bike from an LBS)
This could use a revisit, on my 2021 fox 38 the floating axle has an allen head adjuster inside the threadded end
I made that mistake of not checking my bolts with my rear thru axle. I torqued it up, but I was careless enough to believe that it couldn’t really come loose on the trail. I was out night riding with one of my buddies when it started to come loose. My shifting got worse and worse so I thought it was something like a bent derailleur. While I was climbing up a hill, I heard a loud grinding noise from the back of my bike. I saw that it was my rear hub that made the noise and that’s when I realized it was toasted. I had to ride all the way back home with my pedals oscillating with the hub. When I got home and opened it up, the whole inside was torn up and that’s when I knew it was toasted. The only good thing that came out of it was an upgraded hub: The industry nine hydra. I love the new hub, but it cost me a good $600 to get my bike back up and running. The lesson learned is to always check your bolts before a ride, and if something seems a little off on the trail, check your bolts.
I replaced my Hope head set that i fitted to the bike over 20yrs ago, was in perfect condition.
Once again a bunch of great tips.
Great work Doddy 👍
I’m guilty to almost everything on this list 🤣🤣
Doddy speaking of axle's I think the DT Swiss rws option is the best, soo simple yet effective and the easiest to set up
The only thing I had to deal with valve core being clogged Stan's sealant, and greasing the ball bearings on the headset so the bearings don't fall off easily. Doddy explained all of my problems I have on my hardtail.
In the manual that came with my bike, for Pike RC, it said to have the Maxle QR lever pointed up, parallel with the angle of the fork leg. And in the back, parallel with the angle of the seat stay.
If I had a colleague like Doddy I would leave my levers in the wrong position too. Chances are he will adjust it quickly, and at the same time fix all the bigger issues my bike has... ;-)
On spokes rubbing, you might not like the sound, but if spokes cross, they should be touching, it helps them distribute the load evenly, don't try to prevent them from touching
just got my first hardtail today coming from bmx
@gmbntech #feedback Doddy, what impeccable timing! I had a awful noise coming from what I could of sworn was BB. I couldn’t remove gx crank as the extraction bolt had decided to go it’s own way and you can’t get a new m30 bolt anyway right now. I didn’t think it was anything loose at back end as only torqued everything in feb. Decided to re-check after the show and found the culprit. One chainstay bolt had come loose, re-torqued and hey presto dreadful noise has gone. THANKYOU. You had better check your new spectral 29er too!!!
I use a fine paint pen to mark a line across fasteners and frame or whatever, so it's obvious if one has moved - ie. is coming loose. Very quick and easy to check pre-ride (though I generally 'see' them when cleaning the bike anyway). Need refreshing every so often, but only takes minutes.
Of course it's not very pretty and if you are more into looks and fashion than function this will be fearsomely impossible to tolerate. But I'm an engineer and the bike is equipment that I expect to be reliable.
Is there an explenation to the quick release lever positioning?
11 o' clock position. Parelllel to the fork. Imo 9 o' clock can be hit by ground, a log or a rock if you do a lot of jumps.
But why rockshox 9 o'clock and fox 11 o'clock?
sometimes I have not checked my bolts and my rear Axl has come undone a couple of times, luckily on the climb up.
Another great info. video. Please keep them coming.
I haven't been able to get my forks/steerer out.. I remove the stem and there's some spacers which come off.. I think a little dust cover and then.. it's just rock solid i tap it with the rubber mallet but it doesn't move so I give up 🙃 it's a 2016ish Cannondale quick hybrid with the alu frame and carbon forks. I'll take it to the LBS I suppose if they open again. 😕
I know it might be difficult, but I'd wish for videos like this where gmbn explains certain systems like through axles, there would be every axle from major players. There isn't that many of them, but presenting rock shox and fox all the time just makes it more difficult for RST, Manitou, X-Fusion, SR Suntour to raise awareness about their proper suspension products even existing.
And this way the 2-way monopoly keeps on growing (duopoly?)
I'm pretty sure some of the brand's would actually send theirs axles or even forks if asked for by gmbn.
Thanks doddy , this is time maintenance.
Good stuff Doddy, thanks!
I like to clean my valve stems out with a cotton bud after I've filled through the valve, does a little to help stop the valves getting gummed up when you put them back in.
8:09 I don't have a rear shock, I have a hardtail! Woohoo, no shock maintenance for me!
Another thing people tend to miss is pedals
Me personally had to put new cranks because some pedals got stuck 😅 defenitely put grease and clean them from time to time now.
Excellent video, one thing you might consider though, if you have bolts repeatedly getting loose on your full suspension bike, most likely the bearings are seized. I was surprised to the amount of seized bearings I found after one (one!!) Bikepark Season on my DH. Especially when manufacturers save money and mount no-name cheap bearings. Also mark the bolts using a paint marker, so you don't have to torque check them.... If the paint is cracked, the bolt is loose... #gmbntech #askgmbntech
doing DH is really harsh on the bike, thoose are the ones that really need an eye up close because of the very extreme conditions, especially good riders capable of pushing limits
I am one of those guys that just lost a piece of suspension hardware on the trail. Where do I pick up this stuff? Surely their is Manuf that makes all this stuff. I lost the collared (2 tier) cylindrical shaped nut from the pivot where my chain stay attaches to seat stay. I live in US. LBS had no clue.
Or, you could run tubes and avoid all those issues. Zero punctures with Ritchey WCS on my MTB and Gravelking SKs on gravel bike. At low pressure. Or on my tubulars when racing.
The Fox lever and nut shown at 18:15 are NOT the type where you make the angle adjustment by turning the captive nut. The captive nut shown in that clip has only one position it can be attached, and they are supplied with a lever that can have its tension adjusted by putting a hex wrench into a screw in the middle of the threaded end.
THAT HANGAR TRICK IS DEFENITELY WHAT IS CAUSING MY CREAKING!!!!
Tip with spokes. Use different colored electrical tape on the spokes you are working on. As you rotate your wheel around to check it's easy to lose track of which spoke is which. Then you play "The monkey chases the weasel" as you tighten and loosen the wrong ones. Not everyone can do this, but I prefer to support my local bike shop with this repair. Once a year for the riding I do works well.
The thru-axle walk of shame!
Haven't even serviced my fork or shock yet and have had the bike since August 2020
How many spokes can I lose before I need to rebuild a rear wheel? Most of the remaining ones spin freely too... Are they reverse threaded?
Great video
Thank you
Hi Doddy! Any tip about cleaning the old layer of sealant from tires and rims? Warm water and brush is the only way or there is any "magic product" on the market?
For grease as a barrier, I use anti-seize. Its thick as fuck and sticks in place. You'll not need to service your headset till the end of the season. Not because it's dirty, but because you've got to tear your bike down once a year anyway. I abuse my bikes with a high pressure sprayer so I've tested it.
Is there a video, which explains what bolts i should check from time to time?
Nice stem.
How can a stem with carbon gripper on a bar start creaking? Uneaven torque?
Yea, me too, I don't like checking wheel and headset bearings, mainly because after disassembly 90% of the time they are fine, and I just wasted my time.
at the headset I said "oh gosh I got to titen my headset on my enduro.lol
It's all about the rider and not the bike. You could consider a full suspension MTB a total overkill for urban environment, but if you watch Fabio Wibmer videos you will see that it makes perfect sense to use a DH MTB in the city :)
Do you have any feedback on those new Vittoria tires?
Can anything be done about creaky saddles? It sounds like the BB is dying up every hill but the bike is silent as soon as I stand up. This is with WTB saddles on two of my bikes and they both creak the same way. I've tried spraying silicone lube (Should be less hard on the plastic) where the saddle rails meet the plastic base of the saddle and greasing up the saddle clamp at the seatpost in case this is the issue, but it doesn't make much difference (And there's no sign of movement in the clamp either). I don't think it's the dropper post bushing as I have a KS on one bike and a Thomson on the other and the sound is exactly the same. Similarly I don't think it's the seatpost/frame contact either as that is well coated with anti-seize.
Try copper grease. Get it from any Halfords.
@@rusty2222 I'm already using that where the seatpost touches the frame and in the clamp on the rails. There's no good way to get it between the saddle rails and the plastic body of the saddle where the noise seems to be coming from though.
I have the same issue with my saddle. It's from the saddle flexing under your weight. I constantly have to shift my weight around a little before the creaking stops. Thinking of getting a new saddle just to stop going crazy.
You missed checking your piviot bearing, they over go bad well before shock needs service and can seize.
I have some weird question - should you put some grease on spoke nipples? When I set wheel tension in my old junker I notice after 2 year riding some corrosion on nipples and spokes thread..
I put my Fox lever in that correct position on a new fork and caught it on a rock, punching the lever hard enough to push a hole in the lowers! I now run all my levers in the Rockshox position to avoid this happening again.
Ive slammed my rear wheel on the ground hard enough for the QR lever to open by itself. I was more surprised my tyre didnt take a puncture or rim took any damage.
Gmbn is getting worse but we still have doddy @gmbntech 🏆
UK slang, "tyre bogeys" I love it, does the US mob even know what a "bogey" is? Being Australian we have some common terms, I still remember Fungus the Bogeyman!
dutchie here, no idea! buggers?
@@teundrumhead A bogey is the same as a booger is a piece of dried mucus that comes from inside your nose. Hence "tyre bogeys". Tyre boogers is interchangeable :)
Tyre snotters 😂
Iv just got a brand new fuel ex 9.7. Should I re-grease up all the pivot points and bearings or should they be good to go, as I know ppl that always grease up a new bike!!
My friends and I were riding so hard that our threw axles back out. New England jank will do it.
Can i attach a pannier rack?
Using regular grease when they should be using anti-seize or lock-tight
In what scenario would one use loctite instead of grease?
What rear shock? I love my hardtail!!
Mmm. My Maxle has always been up. Not sure that's a problem though.
according to rock shox both is fine
th-cam.com/video/gE5cU0xUKWM/w-d-xo.html
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy, because of annoying creaking sound while pedaling I just replaced BB and crankset on my aluminum hardtail (Sram DUB BSA and NX crank): at first ride it’s just creaking only under high load, pedaling both sit or stand up on pedals. I cleaned and regreased frame, BB, crankset and pedals bolts, tightened with correct torque. When reinstalling I noticed many grains of dust into the frame BB thread and tried to clean it as good as possible using WD40, a clean rag and toothbrush. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks a lot
Love that bike, I do take donations... good overlooked info, never hurts to hear more as a reminder if nothing else
What tea is your favourite doddy?
What's chances of that? I just gone round my bike and tightened the exact bolt that's used in this video screen shot on my nukeproof mega 😅
applied very little pressure to my rear shock bolt a few days ago, there was the slightest resistance then it was spinning in place, the head had come off the inner bolt which I suspect was caused by a worn flip chip, can't get a replacement until the end of next month so using a brake caliper bolt and shaped a washer to fit in the meantime.........is that a bodge? #AskGMBN
#ask gmbn tech
I got a brand new scott ransom and my headset makes terrible cracking noises. I'm in holiday with my new beauty right now. Can I risk it to use it like this for one week and let it check when I'm back home? Or is this urgent?
#askgmbntech is it me or is there a shortage of 12 speed chains particularly SRAM ones.
It's happening allover the place!
I'm in the middle of building up a bike, had a list of parts links ready to pull the trigger, but half of'em have run out of stock across different shops - same response everywhere: _"waiting for overseas shipments!"_
@@geemail369 I guess all these shipping delays and container ships running around without being unloaded fully too.
Could the creaking from the rear have anything to do with the rear wheel bearings being worn?
most probably yes
@@elvisp8104 It was and the hub was pooched
#askgmbntech my rebound adjuster isnt working when I turn it. Have you got any idea on how i can fix it.
#askgmbntech When my brakes are dry they squeal, however when they’re wet they’re silent... Any advice?
Rubbing alcohol and 3M scrub pad to rotors. Then take out and clean pads, or just replace as they are cheap. I usually use rubbing alcohol and a bit of fine sandpaper and try and remove the contamination layer. Make sure to always use a clean spot and rinse frequently. You can use brake cleaner as well for both if you need something stronger.
I always wandered how sealant doesn't immediately start to dry the moment you inflate the tyre, just after the tubeless installation. I thought sealant activates with air (from a puncture)
I guess that it technically does, but it doesn't dry completely and once the air is damp enough from the sealant, it only dries as it comes out. Pressure differentials could also play a role with this
My headset keeps clicking badly when pedalling hard as I drop
In, I’ve tightened everything and realised the lower headset bearing had some scores on it, could it be loose, some dirt?
2 new bearings
Smashy Rashy the bottom one is new
@@jaydunn2898 clean and new grease
@@jaydunn2898 Had the same problem with a "new" headset and I just cleaned the outside of the bearings, cleaned the inside of the frame and just put new grease in there. Very easy and in the end it works like new.
valve no. i use Schrader valves, those Presta valves are just crap.
Pedals and BB...
Doddy. I didn't know you rode downhill bikes...
#askgmbntech Hi Doddy.
I realized you have the bikes hanging on the wall verticaly. I use to do the same until I was told by my local bike shop not to hang the in that way, insted always to be horizotal to the ground. The reason was for the bakes, as they felt later like having air inside or missing oil. How true is that?
Thank you.
It is true, reason being the air gets to the top of the brakes where you can feel it.
Vertically has the benefit of re-lubing your inners in your fork.
What would be the best way to storage the bike then? 🤔
@@erickmtz11 well vertically with a slight overhang so all the fluids lube your seals.
The air in your brakes will rise up, but see this as a chance to bleed them