i LOVE your stitch by stitch bridging soldering approach for beginners!!! It is AWESOME!!!! People who are very experienced often think beginners should be able to solder quickly - even with the solder held underneath the iron tip. I literally tore the first large leaded window apart as soon as I finished it because I had put a tremendous amount of work into very precisely cutting all the pieces - many out of expensive glass to boot - and I just couldn't accept my soldering!
Thanks, I've had hours of practice this week! It's funny that you can get out of practice easily and you have to do it regularly to stay competent! 😀😀😀
I am going to try this technique next time I solder. I like how you are not dragging it, which is how everyone else shows to do it. Your solder lines are so smooth and rounded. I'm so glad I came across this video! Thank you!
Thank you, we teach classes and often tell students that we don't really "teach" soldering, we "coach" it because it's a process that is best observed and then a little coaching helps. Happy Thanksgiving!! 🙂
Great video, thanks. I haven't tried the bridge method, I tend to just run the solder all along but like you said, it is difficult to get an even curve. Will try the bridge method next time. Thanks
Soldering is a skill that is best learned with some coaching. You solder and get guided by your coach who gives tips and guidance. Good luck with yours! 🙂🙂🙂
I just started doing stained glass, but I need work on my soldering skills, after watching your bridging technique, I think I can practice that. My first project is a stained glass guitar front.
Having your foil wrinkle up or come off the edge is common when doing suncatchers. (We don't have that problem when doing full size windows) There are some things that will help you. First, use a wider foil on the outside of the piece, the extra width will give the foil more sticking power. When soldering the edge, make sure you've burnished the foil down well, then use a rheostat to cool down the iron (or run it over a wet sponge to cool it down. Then drag the iron along the foil quickly so that the foil doesn't get over heated.
I started to learn with a piece similar to what you have in the video. Im finding when i flow one side, the otherside is melting & deforming to the point its no longer smooth & lump free. Would you have any advise. Thanks for the vid. Very informative
Usually you can solve or avoid the problem by doing the bridging method or the touch and pull up method with the solder. If you try to drag the solder along, it's easy to get run throughs and low spots that need to be fixed. Good luck! 🙂🙂🙂
Excellent tips, thanks as always for informative video. In case of double sided projects that you have to solder on the both sides, how you prevent having solder balls on the side where you just finished having a nice bead? Thanks.
We just turn them over and de-solder the extra bump by reheating it nd either flicking it off the panel or by lifting the excess up with the iron and tapping it over a table so the excess is dumped of. If necessary, reheat the spot where the lump has been lifted and lift up, allowing the new smooth area to cool.
We run our iron at full temperature unless doing suncatchers. When we need to cool things down, we just wipe the tip a time or two over a wet sponge, then as you steadily solder, the tip stays the best temperature.
you make the soldering look so easy; what temp is your iron set at, ? i have a weller 100 a and a hako 610 which is set at 410 degree, but if i move as slow as you are the solder goes straight through !!!, any idea why this may be
Run throughs can happen because the space between the glass was too large and also because it was too tight, both conditions can allow the run through. Also, they are more common on the back of the panel because the panel on the front is already soldered so held up from the table so there's someplace for the solder to go. Very often, when we have run through problems simply cooling the tip on a water soaked sponge helps. Check out our video on fixing run throughs th-cam.com/video/wo_bcbkbsVQ/w-d-xo.html
@@GommStainedGlass thanks for your reply, i think part of the problem is when im soldering a lamp panel which cannot be laid flat so its an easy route to the solder to leak through, but i will keep the practice up: do you think the temp of 410 degree is ok or is it too high ? i will also try varying the angle i hold to iron to the work piece, as i note you have it verticle ,,, great video's , thank you
@@MrFigero 410 is probably okay. When doing a lamp shade try this..tack all the pieces together then when soldering the lines place the shade in a cardboard box filled with crumpled newspaper. This will allow you to position each line horizontal so it won't run wrong. I have an article where I do a globe www.gsg-art.com/building-a-stained-glass-globe.html
Are you still using lead-free solder? If so what kind is that - tin-copper, tin-copper-silver or some other kind? Thank you for the great videos you share on your channel, I’ve learned a lot from you!
After grinding and fitting glass, we simply wipe off the glass dust and powder from the glass before foiling it. After soldering we go through the cleaning steps which we demonstrate in many of our videos.
Great video! Just curious why the fact this piece “had been sitting awhile” was mentioned so many times? I know that you shouldn’t leave a project half done with flux on it (without cleaning it off) but I can’t think of another reason.
I’ve noticed on other straight sided pieces, like squares or rectangles, that you often use all horseshoe nails to constrain the pieces. Why don’t you use linear straps of wood or aluminum. Even if your not fitting the piece into a window or cupboard door frame I would think it would result the desired shape better than 80 horseshoe nails.
Since we only have one camera right now, it is difficult to show the action in the most observable manner, we might start setting up an additional camera on future videos. Thanks for the comment..it teaches us how we can be better.
You bet, horseshoe nails have a flat side and a curved side. Flat side keeps glass contained on the line we want them and curved side tightens things up. It's a traditional nail that has been used for hundreds of years in the industry.
I just love watching other people solder to, beautiful built up beading ❤ it 😊
Thanks.
i LOVE your stitch by stitch bridging soldering approach for beginners!!! It is AWESOME!!!! People who are very experienced often think beginners should be able to solder quickly - even with the solder held underneath the iron tip. I literally tore the first large leaded window apart as soon as I finished it because I had put a tremendous amount of work into very precisely cutting all the pieces - many out of expensive glass to boot - and I just couldn't accept my soldering!
Practice makes perfect! We find you've got to keep at it, because it's easy to get out of practice. Thanks for your nice comments!!!
That's the best soldering I've seen so far
Thanks, I've had hours of practice this week! It's funny that you can get out of practice easily and you have to do it regularly to stay competent! 😀😀😀
Great analogy to sewing!
Thanks!
Great tips
Glad it was helpful!
Nice nice demo
Thanks, soldering is my favorite part of doing stained glass 😀😀😀
I am going to try this technique next time I solder. I like how you are not dragging it, which is how everyone else shows to do it. Your solder lines are so smooth and rounded. I'm so glad I came across this video! Thank you!
We're happy to help. they aren't wrong, this is just another way to do it that works. Let us know if you any other questions.
Thank you for the video!
Soldering is my favorite step in doing stained glass. 😀😀😀
This was so helpful! The solder on my first project was so flat and I didn't know why. This has helped me so much - thank you!
Thank you, we teach classes and often tell students that we don't really "teach" soldering, we "coach" it because it's a process that is best observed and then a little coaching helps. Happy Thanksgiving!! 🙂
thanks Jeanne for the great instruction
My pleasure, I hope it was helpful
You're welcome John, I don't usually show techniques, so I'm glad you liked it
I've gotten the best lessons on soldering from you and David. Thank you! I was wondering what temp you have you iron set at in this.
We run our irons at full temp except on rare occasions. This is because when we start soldering, we generally don't stop during the process. 😎
Great video, thanks. I haven't tried the bridge method, I tend to just run the solder all along but like you said, it is difficult to get an even curve. Will try the bridge method next time. Thanks
Soldering is a skill that is best learned with some coaching. You solder and get guided by your coach who gives tips and guidance. Good luck with yours! 🙂🙂🙂
I just started doing stained glass, but I need work on my soldering skills, after watching your bridging technique, I think I can practice that. My first project is a stained glass guitar front.
Cool, I'd love to see a photo when you get it complete. Send it to david.gsglass@gmail.com
I just finished guitar face, sent it to you by email
@@shawndonato7437 Your Guitar Face is really great, I will share it on our newsletter
Can you recommend a tip? Thanks so much awesome video
I prefer a 1/4" tip, Jeanne likes a 3/16" They come sized for the iron you buy! 🙂
Thanks for the super instructions! I’m sure this is a very basic question- my foil peels up when I solder. Any suggestions?
Having your foil wrinkle up or come off the edge is common when doing suncatchers. (We don't have that problem when doing full size windows) There are some things that will help you. First, use a wider foil on the outside of the piece, the extra width will give the foil more sticking power. When soldering the edge, make sure you've burnished the foil down well, then use a rheostat to cool down the iron (or run it over a wet sponge to cool it down. Then drag the iron along the foil quickly so that the foil doesn't get over heated.
So much easier to understand how to soldier
Thanks
I started to learn with a piece similar to what you have in the video. Im finding when i flow one side, the otherside is melting & deforming to the point its no longer smooth & lump free. Would you have any advise. Thanks for the vid. Very informative
Usually you can solve or avoid the problem by doing the bridging method or the touch and pull up method with the solder. If you try to drag the solder along, it's easy to get run throughs and low spots that need to be fixed. Good luck! 🙂🙂🙂
Excellent tips, thanks as always for informative video. In case of double sided projects that you have to solder on the both sides, how you prevent having solder balls on the side where you just finished having a nice bead? Thanks.
We just turn them over and de-solder the extra bump by reheating it nd either flicking it off the panel or by lifting the excess up with the iron and tapping it over a table so the excess is dumped of. If necessary, reheat the spot where the lump has been lifted and lift up, allowing the new smooth area to cool.
Would you be able to share where we could purchase the pattern? It is lovely 🙂
I'm considering putting it on Etsy, but it was originally drawn by hand so it'll take awhile for me to do that. 😎
Thank you for your video. Can you please tell me what temperature do you have the soldering iron?. Thank you again
We run our iron at full temperature unless doing suncatchers. When we need to cool things down, we just wipe the tip a time or two over a wet sponge, then as you steadily solder, the tip stays the best temperature.
you make the soldering look so easy; what temp is your iron set at, ? i have a weller 100 a and a hako 610 which is set at 410 degree, but if i move as slow as you are the solder goes straight through !!!, any idea why this may be
Run throughs can happen because the space between the glass was too large and also because it was too tight, both conditions can allow the run through. Also, they are more common on the back of the panel because the panel on the front is already soldered so held up from the table so there's someplace for the solder to go. Very often, when we have run through problems simply cooling the tip on a water soaked sponge helps. Check out our video on fixing run throughs th-cam.com/video/wo_bcbkbsVQ/w-d-xo.html
@@GommStainedGlass thanks for your reply, i think part of the problem is when im soldering a lamp panel which cannot be laid flat so its an easy route to the solder to leak through, but i will keep the practice up: do you think the temp of 410 degree is ok or is it too high ? i will also try varying the angle i hold to iron to the work piece, as i note you have it verticle ,,, great video's , thank you
@@MrFigero 410 is probably okay. When doing a lamp shade try this..tack all the pieces together then when soldering the lines place the shade in a cardboard box filled with crumpled newspaper. This will allow you to position each line horizontal so it won't run wrong. I have an article where I do a globe www.gsg-art.com/building-a-stained-glass-globe.html
@@GommStainedGlass thank youn=, i will give that a try, thanks for the help
Lovely work. Do you pop pieces of copper wire into your larger gaps to help bridge the solder?
I could but I don't. If I have a bad gap, I'll clean the area and put a piece of copper foil over the gap.
Are you still using lead-free solder? If so what kind is that - tin-copper, tin-copper-silver or some other kind? Thank you for the great videos you share on your channel, I’ve learned a lot from you!
Within a month of trying lead free solder, I went back to 50/50 lead/tin solder, the lead free stuff was just so hard to work with.
this is a great instructional video! Thank you! what temperature is your iron when you do these bridges?
I run my iron on full and when it needs to be a little cooler, I wipe the tip on a sponge.
Do you clean the glass before you solder it? If so what do you use? If not how to you make sure the foil sticks to the glass?
After grinding and fitting glass, we simply wipe off the glass dust and powder from the glass before foiling it. After soldering we go through the cleaning steps which we demonstrate in many of our videos.
Thanks.
What kind of solder do you recommend?
We use 50/50 solder, it's cheaper, strong and gives a good solder line.🙂🙂🙂
Great video! Just curious why the fact this piece “had been sitting awhile” was mentioned so many times? I know that you shouldn’t leave a project half done with flux on it (without cleaning it off) but I can’t think of another reason.
The copper foil corrodes and solder won't stick to it as well, if at all.
Copper foil can oxidize after awhile so it doesn't take flux as readily. It takes on a harsh, brassy look. Then you have to flux heavily.
@@kristy2451 mineral spirits will clean it up!
I’ve noticed on other straight sided pieces, like squares or rectangles, that you often use all horseshoe nails to constrain the pieces. Why don’t you use linear straps of wood or aluminum. Even if your not fitting the piece into a window or cupboard door frame I would think it would result the desired shape better than 80 horseshoe nails.
I could and have done occasionally, but just find this method works well for me, it's not necessarily the only way to do it as you point out.
Great tip but can’t always see what she is doing
Since we only have one camera right now, it is difficult to show the action in the most observable manner, we might start setting up an additional camera on future videos. Thanks for the comment..it teaches us how we can be better.
Are those horseshoe nails?
You bet, horseshoe nails have a flat side and a curved side. Flat side keeps glass contained on the line we want them and curved side tightens things up. It's a traditional nail that has been used for hundreds of years in the industry.