I grow red wigglers. My suggestion is to feed the ashes to the worms first. They will break the nutrients down to a simpler form. Also, they will add microbiology and growth hormones.
Worms can be great at moderating and improving soil conditions. Red wigglers live best with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Most worm bins tend to be acidic so the addition of wood ash may balance the pH, but too much can harm the worms. A simple pH meter can help know how much ash to add.
I’ve been adding clean wood ash and char strictly to my compost pile. I’m relieved to hear you endorse this practice. As I sit through your videos, I don’t have to wait long before all my questions are answered. I only just discovered your channel and have listened to about a dozen of your videos, each one clarifying whether or not so much of the garden hype out there is reputable. I only wish the ads accompanying your videos were half as interesting!!!😉
This is the first time that i got correct and logical information regarding wood ash. For quite long i was very much confused about usage of wood ash and most of the time i got confusing replies from experienced gardeners without any logical explanations but now most of my confusion has been cleared and i can use wood ash accordingly if needed. Thanx for sharing this detailed informative video 👍
Thanks Scott. I do exactly what you said. I add ash to my compost pile. It always seems to turn to great compost. Same as seaweed. I have easy access to seaweed because I live less than a mile from the beach. Seaweed hurts my garden when I add it directly, but man when I compost the seaweed it makes an amazing soil amendment.
I had a pecan tree go down during a Texas storm..cut it up and burned the tree stump below the soil line. Planted a avocado tree in its place, its fruiting this year. I Posted a video of how I did it.
I used wood ash in Daytona beach , FL and the result was catastrophic on my potatoes. Thank you for your advice. I appreciate the expertise. I share your videos. God Bless !!!!
Great video. I hadn't thought of this and had used the ash at another home of mine here in the Phoenix area. The soil here is very high PH. Makes sense now why my shrubs kept dying.
@@GardenerScott the ph neutralizes as it compost. I compost it with my weeds. Sense I have done this I have not had a problem. My soil is neutral to slightly alki ph
@@maryjane-vx4dd It's not a good idea to compost your weeds as the seeds mix with the soil your going to spread on the garden, better to incinerate the weeds with the woody cuttings.
I personally use wood ash in my compost pile. It works out pretty well. I think i've got a high quality compost due to all the materiales I trhrow into the pile. My plants are green, growing very well and looking good all around. Must say though, that I have used ash directly in my plants from time to time. Thanks for this very educational video.
I am a compost maker by trade. I have always used a small amount of wood ash in my compost heaps.I have noticed if more than a light sprinkling is used, the surface of the compost heap will experience a very rapid decomposition, if watered, leaving a slimy surface. This tends to block transpiration. I imagine it is the ash producing sodium or potassium hydroxide, lye, which is highly alkaline to the point of being corrosive. I use one to three sprinkles of ash as I build my heaps, but even a five ton heap will have less than one half of a bucket of ash added in total.
Excellent video and a must watch for farmers and gardeners, whether or not one is using wood ash, the information on the pros and cons is worth knowing.
Here in the desert, gypsum is the key to lower ph and unlock the soils nutrients and of course compost, peat and mulch on top to preserve water. I use ash and gypsum at a 1:1 ratio twice a year.
Add a shitton of sh*t and straw/grass if you cant get anything to grow - give it 6 months - and it will be composted enough to use as a garden finally - also use a shtton of compost tea and food scraps - and get a bunch of worms - add it all in the bed. Sawdust if you can as well to keep the entire mix moist to keep the temps up.
@@sp7951 Peppers need more nitrogen - and the woodchips if there was some in it still - or char - soaked up all the nutrients - i bet this year they do perfect since it's been 9 months
My tomato plants have done the worst they ever have since I put wood ash in the soil. My plants planted in compost are doing amazing. Never again. The ash is getting thrown in the woods where I used to throw it.
Needed advice; When I was not home my wife thaught she would be helpful and put the wood ash around the rhododendrons. I screen my wood ash and spread it with a drop spreader on mossy areas of the lawn and fields. The carcoal I put in the compost to make biochar.
Get some garden sulfur,miracid and ask your local nurseryman what else to do about your wifes well intentioned addition of wood ashes around the Rhododendron.The rise in pH may kill them if you don't bring the pH down swiftly.@Hans Quistorff
I learned this the hard way...and lost a pine tree that I'd spent 5 years growing back from one branch which had been left when the previous house owners had chopped the tree down to nothing!
Good for my soil. Onions love it. My family tradition says never to use it for potatoes or other nightshades, so never tried. Thanks for the great video.
Yeah kinda killed my raspberries a bit (theyve grown back now) the first year throwing ash on them as I didnt think about them being acid loving. So will probably just stick em on vegetables now and use something else for those and the fruit trees.
Thanks for highlighting, I didn't know this, will check ph of my soil and tell others too, is vital we all do what we can to help look after God's green Earth, Gaia, mother nature .
My garden is surrounded with bush and fruit trees had been vandalised annually by wildlife. Pigs, deers, etc. I have uncovered by chance putting wood ashes around the trees and miracle happened. Wildlife doesn’t visit here for a year now. I don’t even have to worry about fixing the fences anymore!
Wow great to know. Thanks. Spotted a groundhog earlier. Flood light caught it. I've been putting organic scallion root ends rehydrated in water 3 inches long. around the garden to stop deer and rabbits but they are not in the ground yet.
I have a wood stove, plenty of wood ash I spread around and in the compost. but, I've never soaked the wood ash in water for fertilizer, which I will do come next garden season
SJ R if you do - look into what type of water to use. There appears to be a lot of discussion on using tap water or municipal water vs rain or purified.
old timers would say they put it around summer squash plants and the squash bugs didnt like to crawl thru it . I dont really know if that works . Not much will kill a squash bug before it kills the plants . I throw all my ash on one of my gardens but thats an acre or more and it lays there all winter . you are correct about the advice tho...it seems ebody has a different opinion on it.
Very interesting! I bought a soil tester so ill see where im at now, i was going to douse my beds with all this ash ive been saving,when in fact i may not need to!
Well I'm in Colorado also (Zone 5) and I'm going to put Charcoal Briquettes Ashes in an 8' x 8' garden bed for Tomatoes. I'm not going to PH test my soil. Just going to do it. So I'll let you know how it works out.
See Dr. Joel Wallach's mineral compendium Ashes are mostly about 70 minerals. The ancients put wood ashes in their food, in their soil to get those minerals. Perhaps there are ways to make soil more acid?
An interesting video, My soil is heavy clay, i was toying with the idea of making bio-char but figured my incinerator ash mixed with the bio-char method might be just as good but its recommended to mix worm soil from your compost with it so i've raised the bar and topped the mix with rotted leaves and covered with a cloth so i have a wormery which should be useful soil to add to the flower borders next spring.
Clay is difficult. I made raised beds for a friend. Layer of sand on bottom to help drainage. Your ideas sound good. Two tips. Add peat moss or cococoir to the mix. Also research "Hugelkultur." I have a mini farm in NC and raise lots of great fruits and vegetables. I Also harvest local fish and employ them in several ways. Cheers!
Wood ash contains heavy metals and accumulates naturally in the living tree. When burning wood collected from a large area and using it on a small area as your garden, these heavy metals like cadmium concentrates heavily. Many authorities advise against using wood ash for that reason.
I've generally found my wood-ash to be useful, especially as an addition to the compost pile. The biochar from the unburned charcoal is an excellent addition too, for all the reasons we already know. On the flip-side I've given up growing blueberries completely, as I've killed off so many expensive bushes. My soil is long-untouched bush (natural forest), and is close to pH7, as measured by a pH meter I own. When I use my woodash directly on the garden (either as a powder or in water) I do so indiscriminately = everywhere or no-where. Who has time to think through, "Well, these plants prefer higher pH, but THESE ones want low pH"? With solar system, water-catchment, firewood provision etc - there's too much to do already. It pisses me off that a healthy plant can be so touchy, but I've given up on keeping blueberries rather than throw good money after bad. Now my strawberries have stopped producing, and my other berries aren't looking very happy, so they may all be on the way out too. At the end of the day, you do what you can with what you've got available. I have lots of woodash, but sulphur for acidification is very expensive... so that's the direction my garden is going.
A) Is a ph meter the only way to discover if your soil is acidic or alkaline? B) Since potatoes need potassium, can fire ash/potash be put on top of the soil of potted potatoe plants? & if not, why not?
I dumped the ash from my grill in a low spot in my back yard about 4 weeks ago. This past weekend I went to dump some more but i noticed that the Bermuda grass has completely covered the ash. I pulled on the Bermuda runner and the roots were about 4 inches deep into he charcoal ash. Can someone tell me whats up with that?
Good explanations and perspectives, thank you Gardener Scott! All good thing need to be used in balance! I live in Canada, I have easy access to local Peat Moss, I "make" about 100 lbs of good wood ash every year. Is it a good idea to mix alkaline ash with acidic Peat Moss and/or coffee marc? Ratio data? Thanks!
You can mix them but the acidity of the peat should dissipate faster than the pH of the ash as it decomposes so it may result in fluctuating conditions for plants. I don't have a ratio to recommend.
Great info: I incorporate wood ash from my wood burning heat source to white pine needles and oak leaves near my garden and cover them with adjacent soil to make life easier. Also as Scott underlines I put it in my compost heap. Without his advice it seems this is the technique to use for PH neutrality balance. I have too much work to do on my homestead and shud be more scientific in my soil application, and do adjacent pH tests but then cutting, splitting 12 cords of maple hardwood for the cold winter here keeps these other tasks at bay, however I will buy a PH kit next time I venture out of my remote area. Saying that my mom made lye soap using this constituent and the causticity index is there as Scott highlights. It seems biochar is a better alternative but with buckets of ashes n being an eco friendly type- I believe in the adage, use what nature provides u and not the local nurseries, if U one has this option like I do. I am interested to know why with the Russian incursion into the Ukraine, the lack of potash may cause food shortages, and Brazil is obtaining 100s of shiploads of it to produce crops. Scott does that mean their soil (Brazil) is not PH neutral or semi-alkaline? Just curious!
Potash is used to make potassium fertilizer. In it's raw form it is alkaline, but when processed as a fertilizer it doesn't have the same effect. Brazil and most rainy regions tend to have acidic soil.
I have used ash from friends wood stoves or mine when I had one. But sparingly in two past gardens. My last soil test 3 years ago in this garden showed a phosphorus level of 352ppm. for the veggie gardens, on the high level of optimal. 3 years before that 565 ppm. That was almost off the charts so I have used only lime in this garden to keep the ph above 6.0 to around 6.5. this next test will be in the late fall and I'll make some changes based on those results . How do you feel about using mineral supplements every 5 or 6 years ? May be like Kozomite which seems to have a nice mix including green sand and crushed bathsalt rock . There are other brands available hear on the east coast. Like Azomite which is easier to find locally . I would value your opinion . Mike from Maryland
I have mixed feelings about mineral supplements. I think too many gardeners use them thinking they're a quick fix for garden problems. It can often lead to a soil so enriched in particular elements that plants actually suffer. You are doing it right. After a soil analysis, if deficiencies are noted, then mineral supplements can help. I'm not familiar with Kozomite, but because green sand adds potassium, I would be careful about adding additional wood ash; too much potassium can cause a few problems with plants. Easing it in over 5 to 6 years sounds like it can be a good strategy and periodic soil tests is a great idea. Thanks, Michael.
Beginner gardener here from Queensland Australia. Scott, can i make a wood ash and coffee grounds soup with a little organic matter like hay to use for an over all fertilizer on my garden or should I make 2 separate soups? 1 for my citrus trees and maybe potatoes and the other for my mangos and avocado?
Hi, Scott. I added plenty of wood ash a year ago (last winter) to my garden in Northern Ontario (soil is sandy - old sand esker, in an area normally gray clay). Well, I killed it! While the beans and peas loved it, the tomatoes, cukes, squashes, lettuces, beets... looked anemic. How do I bring it back? I am on a farm, lots of cow manure, and every fall I dump bushels of maple and birch leaves on it and till it in come spring. Ideas?
@@GardenerScott Thanks for the reply! I intend on doing that - it's the time frame that I'm concerned about, especially now that the world is suddenly remembering things like gardening and baking bread!!
Since adding wood ash to a garden increases its pH, how would adding vinegar to the ash before its addition to the soil work? If the ash is neutralized to roughly 7.0 by the vinegar, would that leave the minerals in the ash available to the plants?
Dear Gardener Scott, would you happen to know the main characteristics for Palawan soil? Will try to get my hands on a ph test kit, once the pandemic lockdown here in El Nido is lifted :)
How do I test the PH of my soil after years of applying composted horse manure? How do I take a reliable sample of my garden soil with all this unspent horse manure compost? Tomatoes do very well in this soil - just about everything I've tried to grow does very well actually...and it's a sandy soil with good drainage and lots of organic material thanks to probably about 100 tons of aged/composted horse manure added over a period of several years - without being utilized until I started my first small garden last year...I've been piling up and composting my 2 horses' manure for years - I started doing this as a means to reduce the parasitic load on my horse's pasture land - as well as a means to break the fly cycle. But now I want to grow veggies with this new super soil... Finally, I think I have some Mosaic Leaf virus on some of my squash plants (due to cucumber beetle infestation that is worse now than it was last year)...but I want to know with greater confidence that this is the problem and not due instead to some mineral deficiency...which is why I'd like to know the true PH of my soil.
@@GardenerScott Thanks Scott. There are labs in my State that I can send soil samples to, but I am wondering about how to best collect the samples since the PH is bound to vary because of all the composted horse manure? Perhaps I should try collecting a soil sample from an area that has received no compost and another sample from the area where my squashes are growing - the ones that look like they have leaf mosaic virus?
ph change depends on in-situ soil buffering capacity, whether acidic or alkaline. in other words, if you have highly buffered soil, it will take a lot of ash to raise ph. it has also been shown that plants can and do create their own soil microvlimate around roots. a lot of the best lemons come from regions of highly calcerous soil, regardless of lemon tree preference for low ph. Additionaly, i have a neutral ph soil with high clay content substrate. i've added bags and bags of hydrated lime (super high ph) with absolutely zero negative effects on all perennials and vegies. the old ph story is outdated and has had much more science done. the old stories about dangers of ph change need to be updated.
Wood ashes tend to temporarily raise the pH high and then it drops down again unless you use a lot.I use dolomitic limestone and wood ashes whenever I can get them.Clay soils are indeed a different animal and you might want to try some garden gypsum in addition to organic matter and limestone.It can help loosen clay and compensate for salt damage.If your soil is already around neutral and tends to stay there,do you really need to add limestone every year?My region(NY) is prone to a lot of rain and the soils tend to be well leached,thus they tend toward lower pH and don't usually have a great buffering capacity.They can be improved.One can always go with what would grow well given the existing conditions,but basically,be careful with the ashes as your soil tends to be around neutral anyway.Perhaps you might skip the limestone when you use the ashes as you will be getting a good pH buffer and plenty of Calcium,Magnesium,Potassium and more.
Scott is right, however as the comments below state: know your pH. The benefits of wood ash are unbelievable, however if your pH is high you'll never see those benefits because your plants will be locked out from processing nutes. Don't use on blueberries or other acid lovers.
HOW ABOUT ALSO ADDING SOME SULPHUR, OR OTHER ACIDIC SUBSTANCES, TO "NEUTRALIZE" THE ASH?!..... HOW ACCURATE ARE THE HAND HELD SOIL PROBE Ph METERS?!....
I've used sulfur in alkaline soil, but not in ash. Chemically, it could help neutralize it, but I don't know what the ratio would be. Most pH meters for the garden are accurate enough to identify acidic or alkaline soil, but they won't give you a precise, accurate reading. Ones I've used have varied by about .5 from each other.
@@weisemari ....hmmm, I would've thought that adding wood chips/sawdust, might require adding some "nitrogen" in order to help balance the added carbon, in the wood. I wish there was more info on using the "hand held" pH meters, => are they "accurate/reliable, and, then how to read the results, as to how to procede (what to add to the soil, to keep things in the proper range, for the crops/orchard planted there. Also, how does "ash" compare to adding charred (charcoal), or only "partially burned materials"?!.. Thanks for the response! ;D
@@guloguloguy Yes, you're right. Add some green grass for nitrogen to the wood stuff, because you need wood stuff, IF your soil has that high ph and would not tolerate your ash. - The word "compost" means literally "put things together". - After seen the video, I'm wondering about the recommended size a garden should normally have in order to assimilate the amount of a household's ash...
Yes exactly ash is not good for gardening I an experience if I applied for vegetables farming plants are not healthy the colour of leaves and stems are not healthy plants became unhealthy if we were applied ash
If the soil is PH balanced already could we mix in Iron sulfate with the ash before spreading. If so would you have a practical recommendation of how much Iron sulfate to add to a 5 Gallon bucket of ash?
I'm not aware of a recommended mix of iron sulfate and ash. Buckets of wood ash can vary a lot. Here's a link that discusses some of that variation: extension.umaine.edu/publications/2279e/
I live in India Goa I'm a retired nursen am interested in doin a little gardening but one place i have is a pile of discarded things burnt for years n it's a big plie now I've sorted it out there's a lot of ash (it's a ash heap ) along wit sand n mud n compost etc but the ash is more n the pH is alkaline i tested it with vinegar I cannot get pH strips here so what should be i do to this soil , the online stores too r not reliable , very costly I'm deciding to add fresh soil to theses raised beds or should I use mulch can u advise if any other
Thank you Mr. Scott, thats what i also think about wood ash. However, have you ever thought about mixin Wood ash with old urine? Urine contains urea that turns into ammonia wich, after a while turns into nitric acid. Mixig nitric acid with an alkaline O 1 3 fertelizer shold be an interesting idea. What do you think?
@@GardenerScott Thank you for your quick reply :). Yes testing would be essential. In addition to nitric acid from urine, there would be another aspect that could buffer the alcality of the ash. If the ash its moist, be it beacause of urine or simple water, carbondioxid from the air would come into it to forme carbonic acid that could nutralize the alcalic compounds and forms something like potassiumhydrogenecarbonat which should no loger be so harmful to a soil. So just keeping woodash moist for a while could make it a better fertalizer over a period of time. Maybe you could even speed up the process by using water that contains sparkling CO2?
Do you know how long you leave it in the compost pile before its neutralized? Is it something I need to add only at the beginning of starting my pile, or could I put it in when my compost pile is finishing up? Also, the left over charcoal from the burned wood can be ground up and added to the compost pile also since the fancy word for that is biochar. :)
I would put it in at the beginning of composting. When it is finished and ready to use it should have buffered. Biochar is more than just charcoal. I have a video next month to explain it.
It depends on the concentration of the ash and the time involved, as mentioned in this study: www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmicb.2017.01400/full
It depends on what you burn in your grill. Wood charcoal makes good ash, but charcoal briquets are made with chemicals that you may not want to add to your soil.
@@GardenerScott good to know! If I want tart tomatoes (I love fried green tomatoes with a bit of a zing) what variety, or type of fertilizer do i use? I've been getting some tasteless tomatoes lately. (Well, the past few years)
When you look for tart tomatoes look for ones that are described as high-acid. Many of us prefer low-acid, which tends to mean sweet. There is no special fertilizer to get that tart flavor.
I blindly followed a very popular gardening expert in the 70's. Always go to the local experts before the National Experts. I could not grow a thing in my garden. My mom asked why it was so bad. I told her what I had done. She was polite. My dad started laughing.🤣🤣🤣
@Johnny AppleStead I live where the geology is limestone and all the soil is eroded limestone which is alkaline. I suspected it wasn't helping, and I was beginning to suspect it is reducing fertility. I'm going to do a professional soil test.
@Johnny AppleStead assuming my soil is alkaline (probably) I will try making an ash slurry and neutralizing it with acid, such as phosphoric acid which I can buy as hydroponic ph down. This way I get the K from the ash and the P from the acid without further raising the ph of the soil. I heat with wood so I have loads of ash to dispose of.
Rory, urine is actually a very good nutrient source and your idea is a valid one. The hygienic aspect is a concern of many, but if you're comfortable with it I say go for it. I would caution against using such a fertilizer directly on food crops because there is a possible risk of pathogens being distributed on your crops.
I grow red wigglers. My suggestion is to feed the ashes to the worms first. They will break the nutrients down to a simpler form. Also, they will add microbiology and growth hormones.
Worms can be great at moderating and improving soil conditions. Red wigglers live best with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Most worm bins tend to be acidic so the addition of wood ash may balance the pH, but too much can harm the worms. A simple pH meter can help know how much ash to add.
Have you done that with sucess?
I agree also use it with the bokasi compost
If you put wood Ash on the lawn and water it the worms Will come up out of the ground everywhere you apply it.
@@phildimick3219 great info . Is It because they LOVE it or is It because they are running away from it ?
I’ve been adding clean wood ash and char strictly to my compost pile. I’m relieved to hear you endorse this practice.
As I sit through your videos, I don’t have to wait long before all my questions are answered. I only just discovered your channel and have listened to about a dozen of your videos, each one clarifying whether or not so much of the garden hype out there is reputable.
I only wish the ads accompanying your videos were half as interesting!!!😉
This is the first time that i got correct and logical information regarding wood ash. For quite long i was very much confused about usage of wood ash and most of the time i got confusing replies from experienced gardeners without any logical explanations but now most of my confusion has been cleared and i can use wood ash accordingly if needed.
Thanx for sharing this detailed informative video 👍
I'm so glad I could help. I agree that it's often difficult to get accurate gardening information. Thanks for the nice comment.
Thanks Scott. I do exactly what you said. I add ash to my compost pile. It always seems to turn to great compost. Same as seaweed. I have easy access to seaweed because I live less than a mile from the beach. Seaweed hurts my garden when I add it directly, but man when I compost the seaweed it makes an amazing soil amendment.
What a great idea! I'll have to remember this next time I visit the Ocean (30 minute drive) ... free seaweed laying around everywhere! :D
@@AA-zq1sx fyi seaweed has salt in it, accumulation of salt over long-term will permanently destroy the soil
be sure to rinse, soak, the seaweed then rinse again. This helps in removal of salts.
@@narinthebeardedalien2994 thanks
For me i mix ash with vinegar and compost tea = ph 6.5 and spray it to my plant, its very helpful.
In MA I pour it on by the buckets every fall and veggies love it.
Here in NH we do the same because we have acidic soil, too. BUT: never put it near your blueberries or other acid-loving plants.
Lol here in Vermont too.
I had a pecan tree go down during a Texas storm..cut it up and burned the tree stump below the soil line. Planted a avocado tree in its place, its fruiting this year. I Posted a video of how I did it.
I used wood ash in Daytona beach , FL and the result was catastrophic on my potatoes. Thank you for your advice. I appreciate the expertise. I share your videos. God Bless !!!!
Great video. I hadn't thought of this and had used the ash at another home of mine here in the Phoenix area. The soil here is very high PH. Makes sense now why my shrubs kept dying.
Thanks. You're not the only one to make that mistake because so many gardening sources recommend ashes with no regard for pH. Glad I could help.
@@GardenerScott the ph neutralizes as it compost. I compost it with my weeds. Sense I have done this I have not had a problem. My soil is neutral to slightly alki ph
@@maryjane-vx4dd It's not a good idea to compost your weeds as the seeds mix with the soil your going to spread on the garden, better to incinerate the weeds with the woody cuttings.
I personally use wood ash in my compost pile. It works out pretty well. I think i've got a high quality compost due to all the materiales I trhrow into the pile. My plants are green, growing very well and looking good all around. Must say though, that I have used ash directly in my plants from time to time. Thanks for this very educational video.
I am a compost maker by trade. I have always used a small amount of wood ash in my compost heaps.I have noticed if more than a light sprinkling is used, the surface of the compost heap will experience a very rapid decomposition, if watered, leaving a slimy surface. This tends to block transpiration. I imagine it is the ash producing sodium or potassium hydroxide, lye, which is highly alkaline to the point of being corrosive. I use one to three sprinkles of ash as I build my heaps, but even a five ton heap will have less than one half of a bucket of ash added in total.
Interesting insights. Thanks for sharing.
use it as fongicide on your fruits trees : just blowing dry ashes on leaves every two weeks
for years I have been putting wood ash on a Paeony bed and they love it.
Excellent video and a must watch for farmers and gardeners, whether or not one is using wood ash, the information on the pros and cons is worth knowing.
Here in the desert, gypsum is the key to lower ph and unlock the soils nutrients and of course compost, peat and mulch on top to preserve water. I use ash and gypsum at a 1:1 ratio twice a year.
I've never used gypsum, Bryon, but it sounds great. I'm glad you've found a nice way to mitigate a problem.
I like how Scott begins with, it may be the best or it could be the worst.
I use wood ash every year but sparingly, so far so good. 4 years in a row now. Indiana
I absolutely love these videos, so much information explained in a way a noob like me can easily understand, thank you gardener Scott!!!
Thanks. So glad you find them helpful.
This video made me a better gardener thank you
You sir have a nice quality camera
Well I just dumped a metric shitload on my garden last week haha.. I'll be sure to test the soil next time
Hahaha... A metric shitload...
But have you tried growing anything in it?
@@mibi2999 well the tomatoes absolutely exploded, they're still producing fruit
@@mibi2999 capsicum and squash didnt like it though
Add a shitton of sh*t and straw/grass if you cant get anything to grow - give it 6 months - and it will be composted enough to use as a garden finally - also use a shtton of compost tea and food scraps - and get a bunch of worms - add it all in the bed. Sawdust if you can as well to keep the entire mix moist to keep the temps up.
@@sp7951 Peppers need more nitrogen - and the woodchips if there was some in it still - or char - soaked up all the nutrients - i bet this year they do perfect since it's been 9 months
you can add lemon juice or vinegar to to balance out the PH then you can use it in any soil/garden .
My tomato plants have done the worst they ever have since I put wood ash in the soil. My plants planted in compost are doing amazing. Never again. The ash is getting thrown in the woods where I used to throw it.
Needed advice; When I was not home my wife thaught she would be helpful and put the wood ash around the rhododendrons. I screen my wood ash and spread it with a drop spreader on mossy areas of the lawn and fields. The carcoal I put in the compost to make biochar.
Thanks, Hans. I'm glad it's helpful.
Get some garden sulfur,miracid and ask your local nurseryman what else to do about your wifes well intentioned addition of wood ashes around the Rhododendron.The rise in pH may kill them if you don't bring the pH down swiftly.@Hans Quistorff
Hi Scott, just to say you are the best. Greetings.
I learned this the hard way...and lost a pine tree that I'd spent 5 years growing back from one branch which had been left when the previous house owners had chopped the tree down to nothing!
That's a tough lesson. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you
Good for my soil. Onions love it. My family tradition says never to use it for potatoes or other nightshades, so never tried. Thanks for the great video.
You're welcome. Thanks.
Yeah kinda killed my raspberries a bit (theyve grown back now) the first year throwing ash on them as I didnt think about them being acid loving. So will probably just stick em on vegetables now and use something else for those and the fruit trees.
Thanks, your video is very informative.
Thanks for highlighting, I didn't know this, will check ph of my soil and tell others too, is vital we all do what we can to help look after God's green Earth, Gaia, mother nature .
Snow is acidic so should somewhat neutralize it if spread in the fall/winter.
My garden is surrounded with bush and fruit trees had been vandalised annually by wildlife. Pigs, deers, etc.
I have uncovered by chance putting wood ashes around the trees and miracle happened. Wildlife doesn’t visit here for a year now. I don’t even have to worry about fixing the fences anymore!
Wow great to know. Thanks. Spotted a groundhog earlier. Flood light caught it.
I've been putting organic scallion root ends rehydrated in water 3 inches long. around the garden to stop deer and rabbits but they are not in the ground yet.
I have a wood stove, plenty of wood ash I spread around and in the compost. but, I've never soaked the wood ash in water for fertilizer, which I will do come next garden season
SJ R if you do - look into what type of water to use. There appears to be a lot of discussion on using tap water or municipal water vs rain or purified.
Thanks for great clear content and God bless Scott today 😂❤
Very informative. Thank you.
old timers would say they put it around summer squash plants and the squash bugs didnt like to crawl thru it . I dont really know if that works . Not much will kill a squash bug before it kills the plants . I throw all my ash on one of my gardens but thats an acre or more and it lays there all winter . you are correct about the advice tho...it seems ebody has a different opinion on it.
I don't know if it works either, but have heard that some gardeners think it does. Thanks.
10gm per squre foot per month is totally safe dose in alkaline soils too
Excellent information, thank you !!
You're welcome, Jeff.
Very interesting! I bought a soil tester so ill see where im at now, i was going to douse my beds with all this ash ive been saving,when in fact i may not need to!
That's a great idea, Kelly.
Well I'm in Colorado also (Zone 5) and I'm going to put Charcoal Briquettes Ashes in an 8' x 8' garden bed for Tomatoes. I'm not going to PH test my soil. Just going to do it. So I'll let you know how it works out.
Be careful about using briquette ashes; they may have some residual chemicals from processing. Good luck.
See Dr. Joel Wallach's mineral compendium
Ashes are mostly about 70 minerals.
The ancients put wood ashes in their food, in their soil to get those minerals.
Perhaps there are ways to make soil more acid?
An interesting video, My soil is heavy clay, i was toying with the idea of making bio-char but figured my incinerator ash mixed with the bio-char method might be just as good but its recommended to mix worm soil from your compost with it so i've raised the bar and topped the mix with rotted leaves and covered with a cloth so i have a wormery which should be useful soil to add to the flower borders next spring.
Thanks. Leaves and worm castings will help your clay soil. Consider adding compost too.
Clay is difficult. I made raised beds for a friend. Layer of sand on bottom to help drainage. Your ideas sound good. Two tips. Add peat moss or cococoir to the mix. Also research "Hugelkultur." I have a mini farm in NC and raise lots of great fruits and vegetables. I Also harvest local fish and employ them in several ways. Cheers!
This is the very reason why certain veg, fruit trees and plants like or don't like ash due to their prefernce of soil type.
Wood ash contains heavy metals and accumulates naturally in the living tree. When burning wood collected from a large area and using it on a small area as your garden, these heavy metals like cadmium concentrates heavily. Many authorities advise against using wood ash for that reason.
But it's only a problem if the ph is low.
Thank you so much, Now i can save a lot of my money. I will do so charity with that money seriously. God Bless.
I've generally found my wood-ash to be useful, especially as an addition to the compost pile. The biochar from the unburned charcoal is an excellent addition too, for all the reasons we already know.
On the flip-side I've given up growing blueberries completely, as I've killed off so many expensive bushes. My soil is long-untouched bush (natural forest), and is close to pH7, as measured by a pH meter I own. When I use my woodash directly on the garden (either as a powder or in water) I do so indiscriminately = everywhere or no-where.
Who has time to think through, "Well, these plants prefer higher pH, but THESE ones want low pH"? With solar system, water-catchment, firewood provision etc - there's too much to do already. It pisses me off that a healthy plant can be so touchy, but I've given up on keeping blueberries rather than throw good money after bad.
Now my strawberries have stopped producing, and my other berries aren't looking very happy, so they may all be on the way out too. At the end of the day, you do what you can with what you've got available. I have lots of woodash, but sulphur for acidification is very expensive... so that's the direction my garden is going.
Good to use ash in my garden to grow corn and squash but bad to grow beans and tomato
A) Is a ph meter the only way to discover if your soil is acidic or alkaline? B) Since potatoes need potassium, can fire ash/potash be put on top of the soil of potted potatoe plants? & if not, why not?
You can check pH with chemical tests. Potassium is mostly immobile in soil and doesn't move well with water so doesn't do much on the soil surface.
Thanks for info scott!
i wonder what would happen if u put it by a planted tree like a crape myrtle?
I dumped the ash from my grill in a low spot in my back yard about 4 weeks ago. This past weekend I went to dump some more but i noticed that the Bermuda grass has completely covered the ash. I pulled on the Bermuda runner and the roots were about 4 inches deep into he charcoal ash. Can someone tell me whats up with that?
Sound s like the grass liked it.
Good video
Good explanations and perspectives, thank you Gardener Scott! All good thing need to be used in balance! I live in Canada, I have easy access to local Peat Moss, I "make" about 100 lbs of good wood ash every year. Is it a good idea to mix alkaline ash with acidic Peat Moss and/or coffee marc? Ratio data? Thanks!
You can mix them but the acidity of the peat should dissipate faster than the pH of the ash as it decomposes so it may result in fluctuating conditions for plants. I don't have a ratio to recommend.
Can't you add sulfur to the ash to neutralize the alkaline?
The proper ratio should neutralize.
Thankyou!,,
First evaluate pH and plant needs, then proceed.
Great info: I incorporate wood ash from my wood burning heat source to white pine needles and oak leaves near my garden and cover them with adjacent soil to make life easier. Also as Scott underlines I put it in my compost heap. Without his advice it seems this is the technique to use for PH neutrality balance. I have too much work to do on my homestead and shud be more scientific in my soil application, and do adjacent pH tests but then cutting, splitting 12 cords of maple hardwood for the cold winter here keeps these other tasks at bay, however I will buy a PH kit next time I venture out of my remote area. Saying that my mom made lye soap using this constituent and the causticity index is there as Scott highlights. It seems biochar is a better alternative but with buckets of ashes n being an eco friendly type- I believe in the adage, use what nature provides u and not the local nurseries, if U one has this option like I do. I am interested to know why with the Russian incursion into the Ukraine, the lack of potash may cause food shortages, and Brazil is obtaining 100s of shiploads of it to produce crops. Scott does that mean their soil (Brazil) is not PH neutral or semi-alkaline? Just curious!
Potash is used to make potassium fertilizer. In it's raw form it is alkaline, but when processed as a fertilizer it doesn't have the same effect. Brazil and most rainy regions tend to have acidic soil.
It seems that adding wood ash to the wood mulch, in my back to Eden gardening method, might work to neutralize the acidic nature of the wood mulch?
Yes, that may help. As the wood mulch and ash decompose they become a neutral pH. The hardest part is not using too much of the ash.
I was wondering the same thing, makes sense.
YYeP1 Heree in Mexico's deserts caliche (CaCO3) is a PROBLEM!
Using wood ash with urine corrects the ph issue and makes for an amazing fertilizer.
It can be, but it can be difficult to determine the best ratio without a pH tester.
Couldn't you add sulphur, lime juice or vinegar to make the wood ash more neutral?
Lime juice or vinegar will have temporary impact but sulfur is a long-term solution.
I have used ash from friends wood stoves or mine when I had one. But sparingly in two past gardens. My last soil test 3 years ago in this garden showed a phosphorus level of 352ppm. for the veggie gardens, on the high level of optimal. 3 years before that 565 ppm. That was almost off the charts so I have used only lime in this garden to keep the ph above 6.0 to around 6.5. this next test will be in the late fall and I'll make some changes based on those results . How do you feel about using mineral supplements every 5 or 6 years ? May be like Kozomite which seems to have a nice mix including green sand and crushed bathsalt rock . There are other brands available hear on the east coast. Like Azomite which is easier to find locally . I would value your opinion . Mike from Maryland
I have mixed feelings about mineral supplements. I think too many gardeners use them thinking they're a quick fix for garden problems. It can often lead to a soil so enriched in particular elements that plants actually suffer. You are doing it right. After a soil analysis, if deficiencies are noted, then mineral supplements can help. I'm not familiar with Kozomite, but because green sand adds potassium, I would be careful about adding additional wood ash; too much potassium can cause a few problems with plants. Easing it in over 5 to 6 years sounds like it can be a good strategy and periodic soil tests is a great idea. Thanks, Michael.
Beginner gardener here from Queensland Australia. Scott, can i make a wood ash and coffee grounds soup with a little organic matter like hay to use for an over all fertilizer on my garden or should I make 2 separate soups? 1 for my citrus trees and maybe potatoes and the other for my mangos and avocado?
Hi, Scott. I added plenty of wood ash a year ago (last winter) to my garden in Northern Ontario (soil is sandy - old sand esker, in an area normally gray clay). Well, I killed it! While the beans and peas loved it, the tomatoes, cukes, squashes, lettuces, beets... looked anemic. How do I bring it back? I am on a farm, lots of cow manure, and every fall I dump bushels of maple and birch leaves on it and till it in come spring. Ideas?
Keep adding manure and other organic matter like leaves. Eventually that material should moderate the soil pH.
@@GardenerScott Thanks for the reply! I intend on doing that - it's the time frame that I'm concerned about, especially now that the world is suddenly remembering things like gardening and baking bread!!
Why not add sulfur powder to the wood ashes? Sulfur is both an essential nutrient and a soil acidifier.
That is an option, but figuring out the ratio of ingredients can be difficult without a pH tester.
Since adding wood ash to a garden increases its pH, how would adding vinegar to the ash before its addition to the soil work? If the ash is neutralized to roughly 7.0 by the vinegar, would that leave the minerals in the ash available to the plants?
Vinegar works short-term but the acidity dissipates as it evaporates.
Dear Gardener Scott, would you happen to know the main characteristics for Palawan soil? Will try to get my hands on a ph test kit, once the pandemic lockdown here in El Nido is lifted :)
I do not know about Palawan soil. Sorry I can't help.
How do I test the PH of my soil after years of applying composted horse manure? How do I take a reliable sample of my garden soil with all this unspent horse manure compost? Tomatoes do very well in this soil - just about everything I've tried to grow does very well actually...and it's a sandy soil with good drainage and lots of organic material thanks to probably about 100 tons of aged/composted horse manure added over a period of several years - without being utilized until I started my first small garden last year...I've been piling up and composting my 2 horses' manure for years - I started doing this as a means to reduce the parasitic load on my horse's pasture land - as well as a means to break the fly cycle. But now I want to grow veggies with this new super soil...
Finally, I think I have some Mosaic Leaf virus on some of my squash plants (due to cucumber beetle infestation that is worse now than it was last year)...but I want to know with greater confidence that this is the problem and not due instead to some mineral deficiency...which is why I'd like to know the true PH of my soil.
The best test is a professional one sent to a state university or private lab.
@@GardenerScott Thanks Scott. There are labs in my State that I can send soil samples to, but I am wondering about how to best collect the samples since the PH is bound to vary because of all the composted horse manure? Perhaps I should try collecting a soil sample from an area that has received no compost and another sample from the area where my squashes are growing - the ones that look like they have leaf mosaic virus?
ph change depends on in-situ soil buffering capacity, whether acidic or alkaline. in other words, if you have highly buffered soil, it will take a lot of ash to raise ph.
it has also been shown that plants can and do create their own soil microvlimate around roots. a lot of the best lemons come from regions of highly calcerous soil, regardless of lemon tree preference for low ph.
Additionaly, i have a neutral ph soil with high clay content substrate. i've added bags and bags of hydrated lime (super high ph) with absolutely zero negative effects on all perennials and vegies.
the old ph story is outdated and has had much more science done. the old stories about dangers of ph change need to be updated.
Wood ashes tend to temporarily raise the pH high and then it drops down again unless you use a lot.I use dolomitic limestone and wood ashes whenever I can get them.Clay soils are indeed a different animal and you might want to try some garden gypsum in addition to organic matter and limestone.It can help loosen clay and compensate for salt damage.If your soil is already around neutral and tends to stay there,do you really need to add limestone every year?My region(NY) is prone to a lot of rain and the soils tend to be well leached,thus they tend toward lower pH and don't usually have a great buffering capacity.They can be improved.One can always go with what would grow well given the existing conditions,but basically,be careful with the ashes as your soil tends to be around neutral anyway.Perhaps you might skip the limestone when you use the ashes as you will be getting a good pH buffer and plenty of Calcium,Magnesium,Potassium and more.
Totally agree, in most situation you can not really change the PH of the soil for long term.
I read that you can put ash on leaves go prevent powder mildew, is that good?
Possibly. The alkalinity of the ash can kill fungal problems like that, but it can also harm many plants.
Scott is right, however as the comments below state: know your pH. The benefits of wood ash are unbelievable, however if your pH is high you'll never see those benefits because your plants will be locked out from processing nutes. Don't use on blueberries or other acid lovers.
HOW ABOUT ALSO ADDING SOME SULPHUR, OR OTHER ACIDIC SUBSTANCES, TO "NEUTRALIZE" THE ASH?!..... HOW ACCURATE ARE THE HAND HELD SOIL PROBE Ph METERS?!....
I've used sulfur in alkaline soil, but not in ash. Chemically, it could help neutralize it, but I don't know what the ratio would be. Most pH meters for the garden are accurate enough to identify acidic or alkaline soil, but they won't give you a precise, accurate reading. Ones I've used have varied by about .5 from each other.
You could use sawdust or make use of woodchips in your garden to get a lower ph.
@@weisemari ....hmmm, I would've thought that adding wood chips/sawdust, might require adding some "nitrogen" in order to help balance the added carbon, in the wood. I wish there was more info on using the "hand held" pH meters, => are they "accurate/reliable, and, then how to read the results, as to how to procede (what to add to the soil, to keep things in the proper range, for the crops/orchard planted there. Also, how does "ash" compare to adding charred (charcoal), or only "partially burned materials"?!.. Thanks for the response! ;D
@@guloguloguy Yes, you're right. Add some green grass for nitrogen to the wood stuff, because you need wood stuff, IF your soil has that high ph and would not tolerate your ash. - The word "compost" means literally "put things together". - After seen the video, I'm wondering about the recommended size a garden should normally have in order to assimilate the amount of a household's ash...
oh no i dumped a bout 5 gallons on my garden over the winter
That's not a problem unless you know your soil is alkaline. If it is, just keep adding compost and eventually it will balance out.
how about the ash used with barbecue with lots of fats drained into it ? can you still use it? would it do any harm ?
The fats might attract rodents or other animals, but it shouldn't cause harm to the soil.
@@GardenerScott thanks.I can continue utilizing the burned ash from my barbecue grill. no worry, no rodents here in my rooftop :)
Yes exactly ash is not good for gardening I an experience if I applied for vegetables farming plants are not healthy the colour of leaves and stems are not healthy plants became unhealthy if we were applied ash
Manure is great for lowering soil pH.
If the soil is PH balanced already could we mix in Iron sulfate with the ash before spreading. If so would you have a practical recommendation of how much Iron sulfate to add to a 5 Gallon bucket of ash?
I'm not aware of a recommended mix of iron sulfate and ash. Buckets of wood ash can vary a lot. Here's a link that discusses some of that variation: extension.umaine.edu/publications/2279e/
If chemicals are entering my yard from sources that I can't control, would wood ash neutralize them?
It depends on many factors so would be difficult to generalize whether it would act as a neutralizer.
I am making my way through all your videos...
Tell me, would ash be a good addition to my worm bins?
It will affect the pH and really isn't necessary.
I live in India Goa I'm a retired nursen am interested in doin a little gardening but one place i have is a pile of discarded things burnt for years n it's a big plie now I've sorted it out there's a lot of ash (it's a ash heap ) along wit sand n mud n compost etc but the ash is more n the pH is alkaline i tested it with vinegar I cannot get pH strips here so what should be i do to this soil , the online stores too r not reliable , very costly I'm deciding to add fresh soil to theses raised beds or should I use mulch can u advise if any other
I don't know of a source for information about an ash pile. Without pH testing I would be hesitant to use it for growing plants.
How to make wood ash safe where it no longer affects microbes and mycrrorizae and other fungi ?
Ash will be alkaline and will have an impact. Using less of it can help.
the ph probes work good u can buy them at many places
Thank you Mr. Scott, thats what i also think about wood ash. However, have you ever thought about mixin Wood ash with old urine? Urine contains urea that turns into ammonia wich, after a while turns into nitric acid. Mixig nitric acid with an alkaline O 1 3 fertelizer shold be an interesting idea. What do you think?
Urine can work, but it's hard to determine the pH effect beforehand so testing would be necessary to know for sure.
@@GardenerScott Thank you for your quick reply :). Yes testing would be essential. In addition to nitric acid from urine, there would be another aspect that could buffer the alcality of the ash. If the ash its moist, be it beacause of urine or simple water, carbondioxid from the air would come into it to forme carbonic acid that could nutralize the alcalic compounds and forms something like potassiumhydrogenecarbonat which should no loger be so harmful to a soil. So just keeping woodash moist for a while could make it a better fertalizer over a period of time. Maybe you could even speed up the process by using water that contains sparkling CO2?
Some times urine goes way alkaline so you would need to know before adding it... I ph test my urine occasionally and I have seen an 8.
We highly recommended you stop using railroad ties to make garden beds.
YES! But they maybe old barn beams / purlins; it looks like a rafter 'cut out' in the lower right corner of scene.
I did not see any railroad ties. Only one shot showed thick beams, and railroad ties would not have been that rotted and disintegrated.
Do you know how long you leave it in the compost pile before its neutralized? Is it something I need to add only at the beginning of starting my pile, or could I put it in when my compost pile is finishing up?
Also, the left over charcoal from the burned wood can be ground up and added to the compost pile also since the fancy word for that is biochar. :)
I would put it in at the beginning of composting. When it is finished and ready to use it should have buffered. Biochar is more than just charcoal. I have a video next month to explain it.
How much can you raise the ph with wood ash?
It depends on the concentration of the ash and the time involved, as mentioned in this study: www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fmicb.2017.01400/full
Would you consider S. Florida sandy soil alkaline? I save my potash for my compost piles and mangos. Thx
Generally, sandy soils are more acidic, but the natural limestone in Florida means they might be alkaline. The only way to be sure is to do a pH test.
Gardener Scott thank you appreciate your response.
To much wood ash will set up compaction in your soil. Potash is used to set up soil in roads and under cement slabs.
Exactly. Look up Roman road building. If you get pot holes around farm. You use wood ash it is like concrete lol
What about ashes from the charcoal grill? I have a lot of those. Never know what to do with them.
It depends on what you burn in your grill. Wood charcoal makes good ash, but charcoal briquets are made with chemicals that you may not want to add to your soil.
@@GardenerScott good to know! If I want tart tomatoes (I love fried green tomatoes with a bit of a zing) what variety, or type of fertilizer do i use? I've been getting some tasteless tomatoes lately. (Well, the past few years)
When you look for tart tomatoes look for ones that are described as high-acid. Many of us prefer low-acid, which tends to mean sweet. There is no special fertilizer to get that tart flavor.
@@GardenerScott thank you!
I blindly followed a very popular gardening expert in the 70's.
Always go to the local experts before the National Experts.
I could not grow a thing in my garden. My mom asked why it was so bad. I told her what I had done. She was polite. My dad started laughing.🤣🤣🤣
Good lesson. Thanks for sharing.
Alkaline doesn’t refer to pH... it refers to carbonate/bicarbonate content.. basic is the correct term.
Add hcl then
And some plants like acidic soil.
What about in red Georgia clay?
You would have to have a soil test done to determine pH.
Uh, oh. I have been doing this.
@Johnny AppleStead I live where the geology is limestone and all the soil is eroded limestone which is alkaline. I suspected it wasn't helping, and I was beginning to suspect it is reducing fertility. I'm going to do a professional soil test.
@Johnny AppleStead assuming my soil is alkaline (probably) I will try making an ash slurry and neutralizing it with acid, such as phosphoric acid which I can buy as hydroponic ph down. This way I get the K from the ash and the P from the acid without further raising the ph of the soil. I heat with wood so I have loads of ash to dispose of.
This may sound rather unhygienic... would a urine (nitrogen rich) and wood ash tea be a good source of plant nutrition in acidic soils?
Rory, urine is actually a very good nutrient source and your idea is a valid one. The hygienic aspect is a concern of many, but if you're comfortable with it I say go for it. I would caution against using such a fertilizer directly on food crops because there is a possible risk of pathogens being distributed on your crops.
@@GardenerScott urine is sterile
@@mmccrownus2406 It is sterile, but it also contains good levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. All things that plants need.
@@GardenerScott Urine can go alkaline I've tested my urine sometimes and it's an 8. So just to be sure use ph strips before adding it.
What state are you located in Scott?
I'm in Colorado.
I mix wood ash with coffee grounds
That can be a good way to add nutrients if the soil pH allows. Thanks.
Used coffee grounds or regular coffee grounds? Used coffee grounds are fairly neutral - around 6.5. However, unused coffee grounds are very acidic.
Not only the wood ash just burned wood. It's all the minerals and nutritions the trees has sucked up..
Absolutely. With the exception of nitrogen, which is lost in high heat.
I'm not sure that I'll follow this fella's advice. None of the plants in the background seem to be alive: there's no trace of green!
It's called winter in Colorado.
@@GardenerScott Exactly :)