The best way I found of doing it, and I would recommend you try! You melt the lead into a bar/ chunk and suspend it over the bucket. You then heat it (but not too quick) with a torch. As the lead drips off its at the minimum melting temp. as what it's coming off is still solid. I don't even deed to sort it!
You can learn a lot about our colonial period by looking at what they bought and sold. I pay particular attention to the guns, the accoutrements and supplies offered in the 18th century, and one of the neatest things I’ve run across is the way they described the sizes of shot offered for their smoothbores. My database begins in 1728, and at that time there was apparently no numerical system for categorizing shot. Instead, they named each size according to the game for which it was appropriate. So, in increasing size, shot was offered as mustard seed shot, bird, dove, pidgeon, partridge, duck, high duck, low duck, goose, turkey, swan, small deer, deer and buck shot. I know that at some point this quaint system was replaced by the more practical but less charming numerical size scheme, but I didn’t, and don’t, have any idea when that happened. It occurred to me that I might get a clue by looking at advertisements for shot in the newspapers of the day, so I searched every offering from 1728 to 1763, several thousand hits, looking for the first numbered shot offered for sale. I was about to give up when I found this: The Pennsylvania Gazette Date: December 21, 1758 Imported in the ship Myrtilla, from London, and to be sold by SAMUEL HUDSON, .... ink powder, cutlary, S.B. No. 1, 2, 3 and 8 shot. Not quite sure if that was what I was looking for, I kept looking and came to this one: The Pennsylvania Gazette Date: July 3, 1760 Title: Just imported in the last vessels from London .... best long narrow back Pennsylvania scythes, bar lead, mustard seed, pidgeon, duck and swan shot, gun flints, F and FF gunpowder, 4 and an half, 4, 12, 11, and 10 shot , White and lilliken pins, .... Not sure about that one, but then this one: The Pennsylvania Gazette September 30, 1762 Imported in the last Vessels from London, Liverpool and Bristol... .... frying pans, No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and B shot , sad irons.... And one last one: Publication: The Pennsylvania Gazette Date: September 22, 1763 Title: To be SOLD by RICHARD WALN, jun. .... flat irons, swan, duck, No. 1, 2 and 3 shot, F and FF gunpowder, oil flints , copper tea kettles.... I have no idea how long it took to discard most of the named shot, but Ezekial Baker still used the terms for some British shot as late as 1821: Shot Name---Pellets/Oz. Buckshot-------5 Ditto small------7 Grape Musket----9 Swan----------15 Goose---------24 Duck----------34 BB------------50 B-------------72 No.1----------94 2------------120 3------------140 4------------175 5------------240 6------------260 7------------320 8------------622 9------------900 10----------1600 Dust---------4300 Maybe they had used both systems all along, as in the ads which offered both. Don't know how you could ever find that out. Whatever, at least some of the names stuck around for a long time, we still use the term "buck" to describe shot, today.
I made a ton of this growing up with plumbers lead sticks and a bernzomatic over a bucket ,you can get the heat to the point the lead will drip like a faucet very uniform , when the bars got down to half and you couldn't hold em we made weights or conicals with the other half melting them in a small cast skillet. I'd try melting the lead into sticks then apply direct heat with a long drop like 2 feet over the bucket . Keep your powder dry.
This drop shot really works in my smoothbore muskets. I find they are great on squirrels and rabbits! I don't always make drop shot, sometimes I us cut shot. I pound a musket ball flat to the right thickness then cut it up into little squares. It's a short range affair, and they spread out rather quickly, but they will tear up a rattlesnake!
You need a ramp to impart spin to the droplets before it drops into the water to help make the droplets round due to centrifugal force. A piece of bedrail angle iron should do the job. Have the angle iron at a serious angle (30 to 40 degrees) to force the droplets to roll all the way down.
I found a way to make swan shot without a tail. its not perfectly round. I heat up a ladle like in the video you need to wait for the lead to get to the right temp. I do this by pouring a little and if it does a popping sound it's too hot. if it doesn't then its the right temp. I get the lead to the right temp then I aim the propane torch across the water and have the lead dribble through the flame before it hits the water.
I haven't used buffers in the shot. But I shoot a lot of pigeons with a couple thin wads over the powder, and a paper shot cup around the shot. And a thin wad over that. I no longer get lead on my barrel when I clean it.
It 'was' mostly dropped from a shot tower when available. Here in Melbourne we have a shopping center built AROUND one {I kid you not, look up Melbourne central shot tower}
I see no reason why that shot could not be loaded into a modern reloading shell. Patterning would be a problem but SHTF situation it would be fine I think.THX
Try dropping molten lead from a height into bucket. Pour lead onto an angle iron that will drop into water. Would be round shot formed better than that
What do u suggest then, to do it better, without having to buy expensive equipment? If u r gonna talk shit then tell us a better way then. Cuz we r all here to learn.
The best way I found of doing it, and I would recommend you try!
You melt the lead into a bar/ chunk and suspend it over the bucket. You then heat it (but not too quick) with a torch. As the lead drips off its at the minimum melting temp. as what it's coming off is still solid. I don't even deed to sort it!
I just said what you said great minds think alike
You can learn a lot about our colonial period by looking at what they bought and sold. I pay particular attention to the guns, the accoutrements and supplies offered in the 18th century, and one of the neatest things I’ve run across is the way they described the sizes of shot offered for their smoothbores. My database begins in 1728, and at that time there was apparently no numerical system for categorizing shot. Instead, they named each size according to the game for which it was appropriate. So, in increasing size, shot was offered as mustard seed shot, bird, dove, pidgeon, partridge, duck, high duck, low duck, goose, turkey, swan, small deer, deer and buck shot.
I know that at some point this quaint system was replaced by the more practical but less charming numerical size scheme, but I didn’t, and don’t, have any idea when that happened. It occurred to me that I might get a clue by looking at advertisements for shot in the newspapers of the day, so I searched every offering from 1728 to 1763, several thousand hits, looking for the first numbered shot offered for sale. I was about to give up when I found this:
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Date: December 21, 1758
Imported in the ship Myrtilla, from London, and to be sold by SAMUEL HUDSON,
.... ink powder, cutlary, S.B. No. 1, 2, 3 and 8 shot.
Not quite sure if that was what I was looking for, I kept looking and came to this one:
The Pennsylvania Gazette
Date: July 3, 1760
Title: Just imported in the last vessels from London
.... best long narrow back Pennsylvania scythes, bar lead, mustard seed, pidgeon, duck and swan shot, gun flints, F and FF gunpowder, 4 and an half, 4, 12, 11, and 10 shot , White and lilliken pins, ....
Not sure about that one, but then this one:
The Pennsylvania Gazette
September 30, 1762
Imported in the last Vessels from London, Liverpool and Bristol...
.... frying pans, No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and B shot , sad irons....
And one last one:
Publication: The Pennsylvania Gazette
Date: September 22, 1763
Title: To be SOLD by RICHARD WALN, jun.
.... flat irons, swan, duck, No. 1, 2 and 3 shot, F and FF gunpowder, oil flints , copper tea kettles....
I have no idea how long it took to discard most of the named shot, but Ezekial Baker still used the terms for some British shot as late as 1821:
Shot Name---Pellets/Oz.
Buckshot-------5
Ditto small------7
Grape Musket----9
Swan----------15
Goose---------24
Duck----------34
BB------------50
B-------------72
No.1----------94
2------------120
3------------140
4------------175
5------------240
6------------260
7------------320
8------------622
9------------900
10----------1600
Dust---------4300
Maybe they had used both systems all along, as in the ads which offered both. Don't know how you could ever find that out. Whatever, at least some of the names stuck around for a long time, we still use the term "buck" to describe shot, today.
You would need to find the logbooks from the actual shipping inventory.
I made a ton of this growing up with plumbers lead sticks and a bernzomatic over a bucket ,you can get the heat to the point the lead will drip like a faucet very uniform , when the bars got down to half and you couldn't hold em we made weights or conicals with the other half melting them in a small cast skillet. I'd try melting the lead into sticks then apply direct heat with a long drop like 2 feet over the bucket . Keep your powder dry.
This drop shot really works in my smoothbore muskets. I find they are great on squirrels and rabbits! I don't always make drop shot, sometimes I us cut shot. I pound a musket ball flat to the right thickness then cut it up into little squares. It's a short range affair, and they spread out rather quickly, but they will tear up a rattlesnake!
You need a ramp to impart spin to the droplets before it drops into the water to help make the droplets round due to centrifugal force. A piece of bedrail angle iron should do the job. Have the angle iron at a serious angle (30 to 40 degrees) to force the droplets to roll all the way down.
he's making "swan shot", it resembles a Rupert Drop. You're thinking of round shot.
I found a way to make swan shot without a tail. its not perfectly round. I heat up a ladle like in the video you need to wait for the lead to get to the right temp. I do this by pouring a little and if it does a popping sound it's too hot. if it doesn't then its the right temp. I get the lead to the right temp then I aim the propane torch across the water and have the lead dribble through the flame before it hits the water.
I haven't used buffers in the shot. But I shoot a lot of pigeons with a couple thin wads over the powder, and a paper shot cup around the shot. And a thin wad over that. I no longer get lead on my barrel when I clean it.
It 'was' mostly dropped from a shot tower when available. Here in Melbourne we have a shopping center built AROUND one {I kid you not, look up Melbourne central shot tower}
good idea. I am going to give this a try
I see no reason why that shot could not be loaded into a modern reloading shell. Patterning would be a problem but SHTF situation it would be fine I think.THX
Brilliant. Glad I watched.
Try dropping molten lead from a height into bucket. Pour lead onto an angle iron that will drop into water. Would be round shot formed better than that
Di you sperate them all are so you shoot them mix 6,7,8
thx for haring
still lookingforward to the hunting vido with that
Ingenious. :)
Awesome.
Oye que likido sé utiliza para enfriar él plomo
Amistad es agua tibia q puedas aguantar el dedo hay
I hear doves in the backround!
36 seconds of intro is too much.
Sorry but that is both terrible quality shot and very slow process
What do u suggest then, to do it better, without having to buy expensive equipment? If u r gonna talk shit then tell us a better way then. Cuz we r all here to learn.
@@suzz1776 making good shot requires good equipment, its a fact