I did an overseed about 4 weeks ago of TTTF with RTF. It is looking great although we had two tropical storm events come through in NJ. Now I am in the middle of a nitrogen blitz with liquid and granular. You just talked me into spending $95 on quick connects.
I'm a convert, crazy that I've been at this so long living in the dark ages of screwing things on hoses 😆 what ultimately sold me was the full flow internal diameter of their accessories. Their hose splitter is light-years better that what I've used from orbit all these years.
Buy Eleys swiveling shut off valve. That is an awesome combo between the shut off valve and the quick connects. I have their hose reel as well. That thing is a tank. Eley does it right. Not cheap but 'buy once, cry once' is a saying I live by.
no joke, that valve is in my cart right now. I already bought their free-standing hose reel for the front and I'm trying to get the stuff together for our back yard and garden area. I've been using a costco hose nozzle with a built in 360 swivel for a while now but it's starting to get banged up so this is my next upgrade. :D Anyone else out there want to check it out here's the link: turfmech.link/swiveling-hose-shutoff-valve
Greenshocker from Andersons is also a great product to use. It's a very fine granular that is fast release and only needs a small amount of water to activate it. It's a 7-1-2 so very similar to this green machine spray.
I like a lot of Andersons products and this one has it's place but I'm not as jazzed about it because it's basically a mix that focuses on ammonium sulfate for the super fast acting effect which can easily be purchased stand alone and 30% dg humic acid which is very easy to buy as a stand alone product. This does make it easier for the average home owner to apply of course making it a good value in that regard but the iron is likely a throwaway ingredient that is unlikely to have much effect on the lawn as it's only 0.5% in the mix and much of that will oxidize before the plant takes it up. I've turned into a foliar spray iron person; it's the only iron that makes sense to me when looking for an immediate response. Definitely nice to see some SOP (Potassium) in the bag though so if a person already had a granule spreader then yeah, this would push lateral growth quickly in the month of October for sure. For the comment readers out there here's the Green Shocker label: d2eh2cb2k6p9dt.cloudfront.net/documents/Labels/Green-Shocker-Label.pdf
Just laid down my first application of ammonium sulfate. Looking to do a weekly application of 0.5 pound/1000 square feet until the lawn starts to slow down later this month.
Agreed. I was looking at the forecast here in SoCal and it looks like October will stay near the 80s all month til the first week of November. Cant Reseed with Rye til then.
yeah, even us over here in Camarillo are looking at 90 in the forecast for Friday. Didn't expect any more of those this season but I wouldn't mind at all about dropping tttf today (monday), even if temps jump this week into the 90s the days are way shorter than they were a couple months back and sun positioning is less intense. Seed will pop just fine in nice warm soil and by the time it starts thickening up the peak heat will subside again. Remember, I seeded KBG in 90+ degree heat back in July and had no die off due to heat; I just had a couple washout events on my seed and then I applied some glyphosate on part of the space to kill off some extra bermuda in the zone. TTTF from seed will handle October 90+ degrees just fine...in fact, don't tell anyone but I may be dropping some TTTF seed in my back yard this week too! :D Just gotta find the time to flatten the area by our pigmy palms.
I'm assuming you are talking about overseeding bermuda with annual rye? yeah, for that wait until those 90's are in the rear view window for sure but perennial rye or fescue i'd say go for it.
I had a hard time with crab grass this past summer I mostly use spectercide 2x a month, all of a sudden it disappeared in September and my seeds filled in the bare spots.
I would push it with moderate rates of N & K but especially with kelp, rgs, or better yet Cytogrow, the fraction of Kelp that directs plant energy directly into rooting. KBG will spread on it's own and fill in this areas, it's slow in the beginning so don't fret. If you push as much lateral spread via rooting and rhizome development you'll have a knockout lawn in Spring. you can buy cytogrow here shrsl.com/2uzh9 or for simplicity head over to a local gardeners supply store and find a bottle of liquid sea kelp. I found one at my local hardware store a couple weeks ago for only $9.
I have Bermuda and Bahia grass in a new construction home. There are many bare spots and very weak areas where grass isn’t growing. Should I put seed down to try to help these spots and if so what brand do you suggest. Thank You
At my old home in Klamath Falls, OR our first frost was usually first week of Oct as well. I don't miss the short season 😅 where I live now Ventura County, CA we probably won't ever frost and avg soil temps will probably never fall below 50 except in shady areas. Bermuda will go dormant but my kbg side yard will thrive all winter. It's a cool change. Enjoy the changing seasons though, I did enjoy the variety while I had it 😊
Yep, centipede doesn't usually get fertilized as heavily as the other warm season grasses and it's less aggressive but the procedure is the same. As Jaycee said, it's a warm season grass.
You should make a video on a better way to weigh nitrogen for the fall nitrogen blitz. Instead of putting .5 lb of n, put down 1 lb of urea at .46 or 2 lb of ams for .42 lbs per 1000. It's easier math for those who struggle in math.
Do you think a fertlizing a buffalo grass lawn is worth it now? Highs are in the 60s and 70s and lows in the 40s with full sun/ cloudless skies here in colorado.
I probably would, I did it last year around the last few days of Sept in similar conditions in Oregon, it will shut down on you soon though so any extra push you get now will give you better winter coverage. Here's the video I made last year th-cam.com/video/68Kvs3XBfkM/w-d-xo.html
ohh yeah for sure, also if you use a hose splitter ball valve at the spigot they have full flow splitters and even hose end shutoff valves. Lots of cool little accessories that don't limit water flow. I used to run three above ground sprinklers at the same time about 150 ft from the water source and water pressure was limited so much by the regular hose connectors, these wider flow things should be standard imo.
That is a spectacular question and one I'd have to do a lot of research on to give you an answer I'd be confident in. I think prodiamine won't slow rhizome growth in well established grass but I don't know for sure. Certainly the surest way to not stunt lateral growth is to skip prodiamine all together...but possibly switching to a dithiopyr application later in the Fall would be better also as your kbg can grow/spread longer into the fall before the weed prevention product is applied. Wish I could say definitively, but thank you for giving me a specific issue to research and learn more about. For all comment readers out there, I do my research in a variety of ways through at home testing, lots of label reading, but also by reading a lot of research papers from university and professional sources.
I will report back. I applied prodiamine at 4 month rate last week of August (for POA problem). Either I was in for a disaster come spring, or it didn't work too well. Been yanking the poa out of the lawn for days now. It was a huge problem for me, too much to pull in spring. I have KGB and the perennial rye I had in the lawn was decimated with pythium this summer. So I am pushing a nitrogen blitz (1/4 lb N per week). Started a couple weeks ago. Also I only covered about 80% of lawn with prodiamine because I had to seed some areas where I was killing Bermuda, so I have a good comparison.
I'd love to hear back from you on what you see, thanks Mark! I'm still torn on whether or not I'll apply a Prodiamine app this month. This house was brand new to me this year and I was surprised to see a TON of poa this spring in it. I made some apps to kill it off late Spring before major poa die-off and seeding happened but I'm sure I'll still have more in the lawn this spring if I do nothing...but on the other hand I want to push bermuda as hard and long as possible to crowd out kikuyu so we shall see what I do.
I used this product for this video because it's superior to Sunday but just as simple for the average lawn-owner to use...but Sunday is cheaper and just as easy, just doesn't have as many goodies in it. Last time I checked my local Target they had bags of Sunday hose-end urea that cost a lot less. If you have equipment like a granule spreader or tank sprayer then there are a lot of other doors to go through. Check out my choose-your-own adventure series on fall fertilizers that I made last year if you want to explore many other options some are more expensive and some are less. That video series starts here: th-cam.com/video/mk0NYL5T-Ic/w-d-xo.html
nutrient source is a big differentiator but in regards to the packaging, yes, that is often the main difference between lots of different mainstream products.
I've never recommended anyone do the Fall nitrogen blitz but there's nothing wrong with it either, that's what you are indirectly asking about. You can apply smaller doses of nitrogen weekly all the way into early November, so long as you used ammonium sulfate which will act regardless of fall soil temps the grass will respond very quickly each time. I'd probably not use full size fertilization rates weekly though and I'd be sure to apply a micronutrient application the first time along with something contains ample amounts of potassium to keep the lawn healthier as it grows as fast as it can. Make absolute certain that first dose or two of nitrogen is low as your new grass is so young, it's roots may not support heavy N so early.
@@TurfMechanic thank you for the quick reply! Since the new grass has established I added a 18-18-18 two days ago but wanted to switch to ammonium nitrate and wanted to seek the correct frequency without overdosing the lawn. I have spoon fed all summer so I don’t have any problem doing the same for the fall. Thank you so much for your channel and valuable information.
What are you thoughts on lawn season potassium increasing chances of snow mold? I'm personally putting down .5 of nitrogen every two weeks via granular Ammonium Sulfate 22-0-0.
I personally think adding extra K will decrease your chances of getting snow mold. If you are planning on 1.5 lbs over 6 weeks of straight amsul then adding a bit of SOP (sulfate of potash) can help a lot for over-wintering. Just make sure to bring that height of cut down low by mid-Nov as Fall starts winding down and then do the occasional fluff of the lawn on dry winter days. I would be surprised if the extra potassium did any harm and would expect it to only help.
@@TurfMechanic I have read some evidence to believe that extra K does increase potential for snow mold. Check these out: www.hort.cornell.edu/turf/cutt/2008v4.pdf www.blog.asianturfgrass.com/2013/03/10-years-ago-today-a-startling-observation-about-potassium-and-snow-mold.html I do also plan on lowering my Tall Fescue down to about 2.5" and my bluegrass down to 2". Hoping to have my lawn in a bit better shape then last spring next year.
I've added straight silica before and I know it helps with rigidity so it can be helpful. I wouldn't recommend it to everybody at seeding or baby grass stage but if you wanted to do everything possible to harden off baby grass as quick as possible then go for it, its one of those diminishing retyrn products that do help but probably not enough for the average person to care! For what it's worth though applying trace elements via greensand, azomite, or even Black Gold (something new im trying from Lawnbright) you'll get silica in the mix without having to do a dedicated product. Not sure if Black Gold actually contains silica but it does provide a bit of nearly all trace minerals.
Brian thanks. i core aerated and over seeded on 9/5. only about 3/4 of it came up so I am going to Aerate once more and overseen one more time on 10/4. See any problems with a second aeration. RTF
If it was me I wouldn't aerate a second time. if you have a lot of baby grass a month old already I don't see the need to disturb those small root systems. Just overseed and spread a couple bags of peat moss on it, water it well for about 5 days then mow, mulching those clippings right on top of the peat and seed and a day or two later you'll have a lot of new sprouts coming up in the gaps. I'd doing this right now on my side of the driveway yard space with KBG. Overseeded a couple washout areas and covered with peat, I'm on day 5 or 6 now and should start seeing new sprouts any day this week. Going into winter you don't want to slow the root development of new grass IMO. An extra aeration is probably more detrimental than helpful at this time.
Thanks Brian, The one hard thing about anOctober seeding is that the leaves are falling already. Normally I mulch them into my mower bag. Should I rake , mulch or blow them off the lawn?
I see your videos, and every now and then I click on them, and every time your lawn looks bad, I would assume it due to excessive fertilization and pesticide abuse. You work so hard for a perfect lawn, and act as an authority on the topic, but it just never really pans out. A healthy lawn in a self sustaining lawn, and you can pretend you are doing something healthy for it by dumping lots of nitrogen on it but really your opening the door to pests and diseases because the plants can't balance their micronutrients due to the force-feeding of nitrogen, which promotes a lot of top growth, tricking you in to thinking you've done something beneficial, farmers have been falling for this since the start of the green revolution. I'm not going to tell anyone how to live there lives, and really I have no business commenting here, but I am sick and bored, so I just gotta say, this may be what you want to do with your time on this earth, but the use of these types of materials is leading to poisoning of the water table, soil erosion, hormonal imbalances in your children, disgusting smells, compaction, I could go on but I'm sure you've already heard all this and refuse to accept it. Anyone here interested in growing actual health plants, whether it be a lawn or a pasture or a forest, look up John Kempf, or Elaine Ingham, or Gabe Brown, to name just a few, and maybe get some perspective as to why this behaviour displayed in this video is ignorant and sort of psychotic.
Pretty rough comment but it's ok, I'm sure lots have the same thoughts but don't say so. For what it's worth I don't use any pesticides and I always fertilize on the low end of the spectrum year after year after year, almost always with omri listed products. This is the season that I decided to incrementally work on my front yard throughout the season instead of bringing out a bulldozer and starting over. I moved into this lawn during the off season blind and have found the lawn to be fully infested with kikuyu, Bermuda, poa, crabgrass, and nutsedge with acidic soil in the 5.5 ph zone. It was like a perfect storm of a difficult situation and yeah, it doesn't look perfect but I never anticipated it would this year. I hope you'll occasionally give the content here a chance and periodically into 2024...and maybe I'll win you over and maybe not, but I'm happy to be known as the guy with a real lawn that does things as organically and naturally as possible, getting dirt under my fingernails every day because I love it. I will never pretend my lawn is perfect but I will never not make a video that I believe can help someone just because my lawn hasn't been fixed into a state of perfection. Long term viewers of mine know what I stand for, it's not what you are suggesting. Thanks for the opportunity to let me say this. 😀
@@TurfMechanic herbicides are pesticides, and they kill soil biology and function, along with your synthetic salt fertilizer chemicals, but Whatever helps you sleep at night man.
I did an overseed about 4 weeks ago of TTTF with RTF. It is looking great although we had two tropical storm events come through in NJ. Now I am in the middle of a nitrogen blitz with liquid and granular. You just talked me into spending $95 on quick connects.
Great info. Exactly what I need to do to my lawn.
👊🤝
The Eley quick connects are key. I have them on all hoses and attachments. Very convenient
I'm a convert, crazy that I've been at this so long living in the dark ages of screwing things on hoses 😆 what ultimately sold me was the full flow internal diameter of their accessories. Their hose splitter is light-years better that what I've used from orbit all these years.
Another mind reading vid ! Thanks for the great vids Brian. Always on point 👌🏼🙏🏼
Lol, mind reading 😁 always glad to make something timely that applies to most of you all, thanks peupeu!
Buy Eleys swiveling shut off valve. That is an awesome combo between the shut off valve and the quick connects. I have their hose reel as well. That thing is a tank. Eley does it right. Not cheap but 'buy once, cry once' is a saying I live by.
no joke, that valve is in my cart right now. I already bought their free-standing hose reel for the front and I'm trying to get the stuff together for our back yard and garden area. I've been using a costco hose nozzle with a built in 360 swivel for a while now but it's starting to get banged up so this is my next upgrade. :D Anyone else out there want to check it out here's the link: turfmech.link/swiveling-hose-shutoff-valve
Greenshocker from Andersons is also a great product to use. It's a very fine granular that is fast release and only needs a small amount of water to activate it. It's a 7-1-2 so very similar to this green machine spray.
I like a lot of Andersons products and this one has it's place but I'm not as jazzed about it because it's basically a mix that focuses on ammonium sulfate for the super fast acting effect which can easily be purchased stand alone and 30% dg humic acid which is very easy to buy as a stand alone product. This does make it easier for the average home owner to apply of course making it a good value in that regard but the iron is likely a throwaway ingredient that is unlikely to have much effect on the lawn as it's only 0.5% in the mix and much of that will oxidize before the plant takes it up. I've turned into a foliar spray iron person; it's the only iron that makes sense to me when looking for an immediate response. Definitely nice to see some SOP (Potassium) in the bag though so if a person already had a granule spreader then yeah, this would push lateral growth quickly in the month of October for sure. For the comment readers out there here's the Green Shocker label: d2eh2cb2k6p9dt.cloudfront.net/documents/Labels/Green-Shocker-Label.pdf
Great advice
Thanks Dan, always shooting to be helpful 👍
Just laid down my first application of ammonium sulfate. Looking to do a weekly application of 0.5 pound/1000 square feet until the lawn starts to slow down later this month.
sounds like a super fun month for you! Chances are good with that plan you'll have some growth all the way into Nov :D
Was going to aerate, level and overseed my tttf lawn here in socal today but just noticed we're going to get a week off 90f heat in a few days :(
Agreed. I was looking at the forecast here in SoCal and it looks like October will stay near the 80s all month til the first week of November. Cant Reseed with Rye til then.
@@MrPESensationthought we were actually getting fall weather with the cooler weekend...but yah back to 80s and 90s...
yeah, even us over here in Camarillo are looking at 90 in the forecast for Friday. Didn't expect any more of those this season but I wouldn't mind at all about dropping tttf today (monday), even if temps jump this week into the 90s the days are way shorter than they were a couple months back and sun positioning is less intense. Seed will pop just fine in nice warm soil and by the time it starts thickening up the peak heat will subside again. Remember, I seeded KBG in 90+ degree heat back in July and had no die off due to heat; I just had a couple washout events on my seed and then I applied some glyphosate on part of the space to kill off some extra bermuda in the zone. TTTF from seed will handle October 90+ degrees just fine...in fact, don't tell anyone but I may be dropping some TTTF seed in my back yard this week too! :D Just gotta find the time to flatten the area by our pigmy palms.
I'm assuming you are talking about overseeding bermuda with annual rye? yeah, for that wait until those 90's are in the rear view window for sure but perennial rye or fescue i'd say go for it.
I was a nice week of mild temps for sure, 95% humidity (where I'm at) almost made 70 degrees feel cold when a breeze kicked up. LOL
I had a hard time with crab grass this past summer I mostly use spectercide 2x a month, all of a sudden it disappeared in September and my seeds filled in the bare spots.
I renovated kbg in September 2nd and have bare spots. Should I push the new grass???
I would push it with moderate rates of N & K but especially with kelp, rgs, or better yet Cytogrow, the fraction of Kelp that directs plant energy directly into rooting. KBG will spread on it's own and fill in this areas, it's slow in the beginning so don't fret. If you push as much lateral spread via rooting and rhizome development you'll have a knockout lawn in Spring. you can buy cytogrow here shrsl.com/2uzh9 or for simplicity head over to a local gardeners supply store and find a bottle of liquid sea kelp. I found one at my local hardware store a couple weeks ago for only $9.
I have Bermuda and Bahia grass in a new construction home. There are many bare spots and very weak areas where grass isn’t growing. Should I put seed down to try to help these spots and if so what brand do you suggest. Thank You
Up here in Northern New Hampshire we have about a week left before our first hard frost (which is late this year)
At my old home in Klamath Falls, OR our first frost was usually first week of Oct as well. I don't miss the short season 😅 where I live now Ventura County, CA we probably won't ever frost and avg soil temps will probably never fall below 50 except in shady areas. Bermuda will go dormant but my kbg side yard will thrive all winter. It's a cool change. Enjoy the changing seasons though, I did enjoy the variety while I had it 😊
Would you do this with centipede as well?
Centipede is a warm season spreading grass, so yes, it falls in the categories he mentioned.
Yep, centipede doesn't usually get fertilized as heavily as the other warm season grasses and it's less aggressive but the procedure is the same. As Jaycee said, it's a warm season grass.
You should make a video on a better way to weigh nitrogen for the fall nitrogen blitz. Instead of putting .5 lb of n, put down 1 lb of urea at .46 or 2 lb of ams for .42 lbs per 1000. It's easier math for those who struggle in math.
Do you think a fertlizing a buffalo grass lawn is worth it now? Highs are in the 60s and 70s and lows in the 40s with full sun/ cloudless skies here in colorado.
I probably would, I did it last year around the last few days of Sept in similar conditions in Oregon, it will shut down on you soon though so any extra push you get now will give you better winter coverage. Here's the video I made last year th-cam.com/video/68Kvs3XBfkM/w-d-xo.html
Ok great. Appreciate the response!
Would also using those full flow nozzles help increase the water flow out of a connected lawn sprinkler as well?
ohh yeah for sure, also if you use a hose splitter ball valve at the spigot they have full flow splitters and even hose end shutoff valves. Lots of cool little accessories that don't limit water flow. I used to run three above ground sprinklers at the same time about 150 ft from the water source and water pressure was limited so much by the regular hose connectors, these wider flow things should be standard imo.
Will prodiamine prevent kbg from spreading during the fall nitrogen blitz. Does prodiamine prevent stolen ryzome spreading?
I have the same question.
That is a spectacular question and one I'd have to do a lot of research on to give you an answer I'd be confident in. I think prodiamine won't slow rhizome growth in well established grass but I don't know for sure. Certainly the surest way to not stunt lateral growth is to skip prodiamine all together...but possibly switching to a dithiopyr application later in the Fall would be better also as your kbg can grow/spread longer into the fall before the weed prevention product is applied. Wish I could say definitively, but thank you for giving me a specific issue to research and learn more about. For all comment readers out there, I do my research in a variety of ways through at home testing, lots of label reading, but also by reading a lot of research papers from university and professional sources.
@@TurfMechanic thank you Brian. I appreciate it.
I will report back. I applied prodiamine at 4 month rate last week of August (for POA problem). Either I was in for a disaster come spring, or it didn't work too well. Been yanking the poa out of the lawn for days now. It was a huge problem for me, too much to pull in spring. I have KGB and the perennial rye I had in the lawn was decimated with pythium this summer. So I am pushing a nitrogen blitz (1/4 lb N per week). Started a couple weeks ago. Also I only covered about 80% of lawn with prodiamine because I had to seed some areas where I was killing Bermuda, so I have a good comparison.
I'd love to hear back from you on what you see, thanks Mark! I'm still torn on whether or not I'll apply a Prodiamine app this month. This house was brand new to me this year and I was surprised to see a TON of poa this spring in it. I made some apps to kill it off late Spring before major poa die-off and seeding happened but I'm sure I'll still have more in the lawn this spring if I do nothing...but on the other hand I want to push bermuda as hard and long as possible to crowd out kikuyu so we shall see what I do.
That boost pack is definitely a little too wealthy for me. the pricing on fertilizers are getting out of control
Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium-it’s all the same despite the packaging.
I used this product for this video because it's superior to Sunday but just as simple for the average lawn-owner to use...but Sunday is cheaper and just as easy, just doesn't have as many goodies in it. Last time I checked my local Target they had bags of Sunday hose-end urea that cost a lot less. If you have equipment like a granule spreader or tank sprayer then there are a lot of other doors to go through. Check out my choose-your-own adventure series on fall fertilizers that I made last year if you want to explore many other options some are more expensive and some are less. That video series starts here: th-cam.com/video/mk0NYL5T-Ic/w-d-xo.html
nutrient source is a big differentiator but in regards to the packaging, yes, that is often the main difference between lots of different mainstream products.
How often can I apply fertilizer at this time to maximize benefit to get my newly seeded (9/10/23) KBG to spread ?
I've never recommended anyone do the Fall nitrogen blitz but there's nothing wrong with it either, that's what you are indirectly asking about. You can apply smaller doses of nitrogen weekly all the way into early November, so long as you used ammonium sulfate which will act regardless of fall soil temps the grass will respond very quickly each time. I'd probably not use full size fertilization rates weekly though and I'd be sure to apply a micronutrient application the first time along with something contains ample amounts of potassium to keep the lawn healthier as it grows as fast as it can. Make absolute certain that first dose or two of nitrogen is low as your new grass is so young, it's roots may not support heavy N so early.
@@TurfMechanic thank you for the quick reply! Since the new grass has established I added a 18-18-18 two days ago but wanted to switch to ammonium nitrate and wanted to seek the correct frequency without overdosing the lawn. I have spoon fed all summer so I don’t have any problem doing the same for the fall. Thank you so much for your channel and valuable information.
What are you thoughts on lawn season potassium increasing chances of snow mold? I'm personally putting down .5 of nitrogen every two weeks via granular Ammonium Sulfate 22-0-0.
I personally think adding extra K will decrease your chances of getting snow mold. If you are planning on 1.5 lbs over 6 weeks of straight amsul then adding a bit of SOP (sulfate of potash) can help a lot for over-wintering. Just make sure to bring that height of cut down low by mid-Nov as Fall starts winding down and then do the occasional fluff of the lawn on dry winter days. I would be surprised if the extra potassium did any harm and would expect it to only help.
@@TurfMechanic I have read some evidence to believe that extra K does increase potential for snow mold. Check these out:
www.hort.cornell.edu/turf/cutt/2008v4.pdf
www.blog.asianturfgrass.com/2013/03/10-years-ago-today-a-startling-observation-about-potassium-and-snow-mold.html
I do also plan on lowering my Tall Fescue down to about 2.5" and my bluegrass down to 2". Hoping to have my lawn in a bit better shape then last spring next year.
do you recommend Silicon boost after you have baby grass or at seeding time?
I've added straight silica before and I know it helps with rigidity so it can be helpful. I wouldn't recommend it to everybody at seeding or baby grass stage but if you wanted to do everything possible to harden off baby grass as quick as possible then go for it, its one of those diminishing retyrn products that do help but probably not enough for the average person to care! For what it's worth though applying trace elements via greensand, azomite, or even Black Gold (something new im trying from Lawnbright) you'll get silica in the mix without having to do a dedicated product. Not sure if Black Gold actually contains silica but it does provide a bit of nearly all trace minerals.
Brian thanks.
i core aerated and over seeded on 9/5. only about 3/4 of it came up so I am going to Aerate once more and overseen one more time on 10/4. See any problems with a second aeration. RTF
My core aerator is one i put behind my Cub Cadet. It works great holes in the ground and plugs. So it doesn't cost me anything to aerate
If it was me I wouldn't aerate a second time. if you have a lot of baby grass a month old already I don't see the need to disturb those small root systems. Just overseed and spread a couple bags of peat moss on it, water it well for about 5 days then mow, mulching those clippings right on top of the peat and seed and a day or two later you'll have a lot of new sprouts coming up in the gaps. I'd doing this right now on my side of the driveway yard space with KBG. Overseeded a couple washout areas and covered with peat, I'm on day 5 or 6 now and should start seeing new sprouts any day this week. Going into winter you don't want to slow the root development of new grass IMO. An extra aeration is probably more detrimental than helpful at this time.
Thanks Brian,
The one hard thing about anOctober seeding is that the leaves are falling already. Normally I mulch them into my mower bag. Should I rake , mulch or blow them off the lawn?
Moral of the story. DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY SEEDING IN SUMMER.
I see your videos, and every now and then I click on them, and every time your lawn looks bad, I would assume it due to excessive fertilization and pesticide abuse. You work so hard for a perfect lawn, and act as an authority on the topic, but it just never really pans out.
A healthy lawn in a self sustaining lawn, and you can pretend you are doing something healthy for it by dumping lots of nitrogen on it but really your opening the door to pests and diseases because the plants can't balance their micronutrients due to the force-feeding of nitrogen, which promotes a lot of top growth, tricking you in to thinking you've done something beneficial, farmers have been falling for this since the start of the green revolution.
I'm not going to tell anyone how to live there lives, and really I have no business commenting here, but I am sick and bored, so I just gotta say, this may be what you want to do with your time on this earth, but the use of these types of materials is leading to poisoning of the water table, soil erosion, hormonal imbalances in your children, disgusting smells, compaction, I could go on but I'm sure you've already heard all this and refuse to accept it.
Anyone here interested in growing actual health plants, whether it be a lawn or a pasture or a forest, look up John Kempf, or Elaine Ingham, or Gabe Brown, to name just a few, and maybe get some perspective as to why this behaviour displayed in this video is ignorant and sort of psychotic.
Pretty rough comment but it's ok, I'm sure lots have the same thoughts but don't say so. For what it's worth I don't use any pesticides and I always fertilize on the low end of the spectrum year after year after year, almost always with omri listed products. This is the season that I decided to incrementally work on my front yard throughout the season instead of bringing out a bulldozer and starting over. I moved into this lawn during the off season blind and have found the lawn to be fully infested with kikuyu, Bermuda, poa, crabgrass, and nutsedge with acidic soil in the 5.5 ph zone. It was like a perfect storm of a difficult situation and yeah, it doesn't look perfect but I never anticipated it would this year. I hope you'll occasionally give the content here a chance and periodically into 2024...and maybe I'll win you over and maybe not, but I'm happy to be known as the guy with a real lawn that does things as organically and naturally as possible, getting dirt under my fingernails every day because I love it. I will never pretend my lawn is perfect but I will never not make a video that I believe can help someone just because my lawn hasn't been fixed into a state of perfection.
Long term viewers of mine know what I stand for, it's not what you are suggesting. Thanks for the opportunity to let me say this. 😀
@@TurfMechanic herbicides are pesticides, and they kill soil biology and function, along with your synthetic salt fertilizer chemicals, but Whatever helps you sleep at night man.