If you want to purchase this board, un-populated, then you can from here: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/RF_Power_Sensor_as_shown_on_Tech_Minds_TH-cam_d04f8aab.html
It looks like TH-cam has been removing comments on this video. If your comment disappears, please try adding it again, it wasn’t me removing them. Thanks.
Just for my understanding, as I am fairly new to this: Does the power get reflected back to the source when you connect this sensor? Isn't it a bad idea to reflect that much power or is the idea to connect a known attenuator in between that reduces the reflected power? Or could you use a T-shaped splitter with a load on the third leg?
But… when I attached the final build to a UHF (70cm) repeater 110 Watt transmitter output… I just heard a “pop” and smoke filled the room. Did I do something wrong? 🫣🤣 Just Kidding! Relax… Seriously. Thanks for a phenomenal project! I have AS (a form of spinal arthritis) that makes assembly impossible. I just wish this project had been out there before I lost my assembly skills. It really looks amazing!
Can I give you some feedback? 1) A couple of extra via's would be good, especially at such high frequencies. 2) you better place all the components on the board and then solder it with hot air, all at once. And use less solder paste. Bottom line, nice project :-)
Hello. Nice project! Please tell me where did you bought black enclosure for this ? I bought on ali similar but screws not fit together with N connector...
Beware of fake ADS1115 which only resolve 12 bit (relabeled ADS1015). Easy to spot as the 4 LSBs always return zero. Any book recommendations for RF/microwave newbies, describing circuits like this and how to layout them?
Great video Matt, a populated board on pcbway would be awesome for those of use with Big fingers and no tweezers!! you inspired me to get on QO-100 NB and Now just waiting for my mini tiouner parts to arrive to do DATV. hopefully catch you on the sat sometime G5ART
Funny you should publish this just as I ordered a few RF schottkys for a similar project - I like to call mine “hot shack indicators”. I like the design, but you probably want to at least give the illusion of the correct footprints - even if the copper layer is different for impedance matching you can improve solderability by having the solder mask match the component.
@@TechMindsOfficial my bad i understand now, i need a attenuator. thanks for the reply. one more question. would a BAT62E6327HTSA1 be a good replacement for the BAT62-02W
Think you might need to clean your ears out as I said Scotchy as in Scotch-eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
@@TechMindsOfficial I'd also recommend making the board so that the only exposed pad area is what is needed by the specific components. Having those massive pads didn't do your soldering any favors, nor did the amount of paste. Remember the 4 rules of SMD soldering: more heat, less solder, flux is magic, use magnification.
@@TechMindsOfficial there is a trick to that too. Don't hold the tweezers like a pencil and instead pinch them with all your fingers. That way the tips of your fingers can be firmly planted against the table and thus will not shake and be incredibly steady. If you are using solder paste then you can actually use the blunt end of a cotton swab to lightly press down on the part while you flow the solder with an iron tip. Though I personally like to use a fine chisel tip iron and thin solder wire and a flux pen to get the job done
If you want to purchase this board, un-populated, then you can from here: www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/RF_Power_Sensor_as_shown_on_Tech_Minds_TH-cam_d04f8aab.html
It looks like TH-cam has been removing comments on this video. If your comment disappears, please try adding it again, it wasn’t me removing them. Thanks.
TH-cam is the worst
Yes i added yrstarday and yt remove!! Wtf
RF Power Snitch uses the diode detector but adds an amplifier. Breakout pins let you measure the amplified voltage or you can connect an Arduino.
good job! But I need up to 36-39dbm. Could you help with this?
Just for my understanding, as I am fairly new to this: Does the power get reflected back to the source when you connect this sensor? Isn't it a bad idea to reflect that much power or is the idea to connect a known attenuator in between that reduces the reflected power? Or could you use a T-shaped splitter with a load on the third leg?
Look at the schematic. The input resistors create a 50 ohm input impedance so little power will be reflected.
@@paulrandall7243 Thanks! That makes sense 👍
But… when I attached the final build to a UHF (70cm) repeater 110 Watt transmitter output…
I just heard a “pop” and smoke filled the room.
Did I do something wrong?
🫣🤣
Just Kidding! Relax…
Seriously.
Thanks for a phenomenal project!
I have AS (a form of spinal arthritis) that makes assembly impossible.
I just wish this project had been out there before I lost my assembly skills.
It really looks amazing!
The VSWR of this power sensor input is too high, so the return power presents.
@fixthetempo7276 and?
Can I give you some feedback? 1) A couple of extra via's would be good, especially at such high frequencies. 2) you better place all the components on the board and then solder it with hot air, all at once. And use less solder paste.
Bottom line, nice project :-)
"Can I give you some feedback?"- No. Awe shucks....Just kidding- interesting feedback none the less...
Could you share a link to the housing? Would love to use it in a project of my own
Pcb heater matt great kit
this is awesome. Thank you for this
Hello. Nice project! Please tell me where did you bought black enclosure for this ? I bought on ali similar but screws not fit together with N connector...
It was on Ebay UK. The seller didn't have many left when I purchased mine, but they might have re-listed some more, hopefully :-)
@@TechMindsOfficial Could you provide the name of product ?
@@lucjann.577 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325138192173
Why somebody is still removing my comments about the alu case where to buy? Is it yt or you?
Defo not me removing comments, and the link to buy the case is above your comment.
Looks nice!
Beware of fake ADS1115 which only resolve 12 bit (relabeled ADS1015). Easy to spot as the 4 LSBs always return zero.
Any book recommendations for RF/microwave newbies, describing circuits like this and how to layout them?
Hi Matt, what size SMD components did you use 0805? Great vids BTW! 73 G0FVI
Great video Matt, a populated board on pcbway would be awesome for those of use with Big fingers and no tweezers!! you inspired me to get on QO-100 NB and Now just waiting for my mini tiouner parts to arrive to do DATV. hopefully catch you on the sat sometime G5ART
Funny you should publish this just as I ordered a few RF schottkys for a similar project - I like to call mine “hot shack indicators”.
I like the design, but you probably want to at least give the illusion of the correct footprints - even if the copper layer is different for impedance matching you can improve solderability by having the solder mask match the component.
Thanks for the video!
Can i get the cad file so i can order some boards from PCBway ?
Great job!
Perfect 🙂💪
But why u not try with AD8317/8318? Or you’re try and results not perfect?🙂
I have tried but calculations are difficult because of calibration and I don’t have another power meter to check against. Maybe I will try again
Nice info, thank you for sharing it :)
does anyone have bom and centroid files (or kicad source) for this board?
Hello, can I purchase the PCB please? Petr
www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/RF_Power_Sensor_as_shown_on_Tech_Minds_TH-cam_d04f8aab.html
great job
Nice job Matt. 73 ZS6YI
Thanks Gary!
Where did you get the box, i looked on ebay and didn't see it. also will you be posting the pcb files? Thanks
www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/RF_Power_Sensor_as_shown_on_Tech_Minds_TH-cam_d04f8aab.html
These cases are available on famous china web page. 25mmx25mmx80mm. I tried to add link several times but somebody is removing this...
Where can we get the case with the N flange connector? Thanks. 73 de N1FBZ
SV1AFN sell cases like that.
He have a kit with 2 flange and 2 N sockets
@@ericpilboue3276 Thank you. 73 de N1FBZ
Can i use this to test 5 or 10w handheld radios?
You would need to attenuate the signal so not to damage the sensor.
@@TechMindsOfficial how would i do that?
@@TechMindsOfficial my bad i understand now, i need a attenuator. thanks for the reply. one more question. would a BAT62E6327HTSA1 be a good replacement for the BAT62-02W
Awesome
IMSAI Guy explains the detector circuit in his video #752
Never heard someone pronounce Schottky (shot-key) as Scotchy (scotch-ee) 😂
Think you might need to clean your ears out as I said Scotchy as in Scotch-eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Nicely Said Matt
@@TechMindsOfficial I'd also recommend making the board so that the only exposed pad area is what is needed by the specific components. Having those massive pads didn't do your soldering any favors, nor did the amount of paste.
Remember the 4 rules of SMD soldering: more heat, less solder, flux is magic, use magnification.
And a steady hand! lol
@@TechMindsOfficial there is a trick to that too. Don't hold the tweezers like a pencil and instead pinch them with all your fingers. That way the tips of your fingers can be firmly planted against the table and thus will not shake and be incredibly steady.
If you are using solder paste then you can actually use the blunt end of a cotton swab to lightly press down on the part while you flow the solder with an iron tip.
Though I personally like to use a fine chisel tip iron and thin solder wire and a flux pen to get the job done
do you have a component BOM
Cool
next revision might be like, OXCOs, to include a heater to keep the sensor enclosure at a constant temperature, well above ambient.
"High performance"