O-Ring Kit & Sleeve Seal (402011): amzn.to/44GaPvo (affiliate*) Post Bumper (500453): amzn.to/3Z0wrS2 (affiliate*) Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/3eHsQ5l (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
A buddy gave me this gun so I didn't know what was wrong with it except it wouldn't fire. Not miss but not fire at all. I went through the inside striker, cylinder, etc. last night and every thing looked good. Cleaned and lubed good. Tonight I'm taking the nail chamber, nose, etc. off. I believe it's the safety mechanism out of adjustment that keeps it from firing.. Any suggestions on that?@@Mikeattempts
@@dougjohn45 If that safety linkage is bent or misaligned, it might not be able to push the hinged metal plate behind the trigger, which contacts the valve pin. Or, it might have been reinstalled incorrectly and isn't on the correct side of that metal plate.
So fixed my leak from other comments I left, now I'm not able to drive nails however. First time dealing with piston problem for me. I can drive the first nail but doesn't sink, then the next won't feed because driver doesn't retract far enough to allow clearance for next one Where should I start diagnosing this issue? Keep in mind just did full gasket/seal rebuild on the top of the gun
I had this problem recently with a pneumatic stapler. It turned out to be the front bumper. It was still in one piece, but it had no "bounce" left at all. Also be sure to pre-lube the inside of the cylinder/sleeve and the new driver O-ring liberally during re-assembly.
I replaced everything and o rings weren't even bad. New seal and it leaks out the side of the back cover. Only damage is the guide pin for the back cover is broken. But I don't see how that would effect anything being the seal covers it.
I'm no pro but you might just need a new gasket for the back cover. I could have tears, cracks, or just over compressed at this point. Just be sure you hand tighten those bolts so you're sure they're good and tight.
@@Mikeattemptsit is also new. It seems like because the guide pin is broken air is getting through that hole and expanding the seal. I don't know why they designed the hole to go straight into the back.
@@Matt91593 Maybe you could just fill that hole with a little RTV silicone, let it set up a bit, and then reinstall the gasket and back cover. Hopefully that'll seal it up.
Lots of pitting on the aluminum (magnesium?) sleeve from water corrosion. This tells me a better water separator and a tool oiler would be advisable on the compressor. I would have enjoyed seeing an attempt to rehab the sleeve with a cylinder hone. Hard to tell how deep the pitting was.
I'm not sure how bad it would have been if I had just cleaned it by hand. Soaking it, at least for the amount of time I did, completely ruined it. I assume the sleeve was made from a composite of 2 or more types of metal and the cleaner I used ate one of the metals away, leaving the white deposits. I might have been able to save it before the soak, but no amount of honing would have saved it after. :)
Got another F350S in for repair, trigger not actuating. Basically perpetually pressed in and won't release outwards Took out retaining pin and grommet, pulled trigger out and saw there is no spring behind the trigger like at 03:28 in your video So now I went into the diagram for it to order part and notice there's not even a spring in the diagram. But I definitely have that little nipple to catch the spring just like in your video Any ideas?
@@caminotorino4547 Oh, sorry, I thought the valve pin spring was the one you were talking about. I don't see that spring in my parts diagram either but any spring that fits around the little nubs would work fine. However, I can't imagine that's why it's leaking. I would assume issue is with the valve. With the trigger off, if you connect an air hose, does it still leak? If so then it doesn't have anything to do with the trigger.
@@Mikeattempts no leaks at all on this specific gun, gun just won't fire cause trigger is basically like it's being held down, I'm assuming since there's no spring
O-Ring Kit & Sleeve Seal (402011):
amzn.to/44GaPvo (affiliate*)
Post Bumper (500453):
amzn.to/3Z0wrS2 (affiliate*)
Snap Ring Pliers:
amzn.to/3eHsQ5l (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Mike, this is the best tutorial I have ever seen. Thanks
Thank you!
Wow piece by piece step for step and very easy to understand
Thank for the comment, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! :)
Very good job Mike. Thanks for sharing. With this video I'm gonna try it. I can always refer back to your video.
Thanks, let me know how it goes! :)
A buddy gave me this gun so I didn't know what was wrong with it except it wouldn't fire. Not miss but not fire at all. I went through the inside striker, cylinder, etc. last night and every thing looked good. Cleaned and lubed good. Tonight I'm taking the nail chamber, nose, etc. off. I believe it's the safety mechanism out of adjustment that keeps it from firing.. Any suggestions on that?@@Mikeattempts
@@dougjohn45 If that safety linkage is bent or misaligned, it might not be able to push the hinged metal plate behind the trigger, which contacts the valve pin. Or, it might have been reinstalled incorrectly and isn't on the correct side of that metal plate.
So fixed my leak from other comments I left, now I'm not able to drive nails however. First time dealing with piston problem for me.
I can drive the first nail but doesn't sink, then the next won't feed because driver doesn't retract far enough to allow clearance for next one
Where should I start diagnosing this issue? Keep in mind just did full gasket/seal rebuild on the top of the gun
I had this problem recently with a pneumatic stapler. It turned out to be the front bumper. It was still in one piece, but it had no "bounce" left at all. Also be sure to pre-lube the inside of the cylinder/sleeve and the new driver O-ring liberally during re-assembly.
That's usually the top plastic seal on the sleeve that causes that issue. I've had that happen on both of my F350s'. rebuild kits are cheap.
great job dude!
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
Video, really well done. Can u guve me an idea of cost, i just inherited one nyself. Btw. Merry x!
The parts were only around $25 - $30, there are links in the video description if you need 'em. Merry XMas!
I replaced everything and o rings weren't even bad. New seal and it leaks out the side of the back cover. Only damage is the guide pin for the back cover is broken. But I don't see how that would effect anything being the seal covers it.
I'm no pro but you might just need a new gasket for the back cover. I could have tears, cracks, or just over compressed at this point. Just be sure you hand tighten those bolts so you're sure they're good and tight.
@@Mikeattemptsit is also new. It seems like because the guide pin is broken air is getting through that hole and expanding the seal. I don't know why they designed the hole to go straight into the back.
@@Matt91593 Maybe you could just fill that hole with a little RTV silicone, let it set up a bit, and then reinstall the gasket and back cover. Hopefully that'll seal it up.
@@Mikeattempts was planning on trying that or super glue. Glue gun didn't work. Thanks, this thing has been driving me crazy!
@Matt91593 The RTV should fill the void from the missing guide pin and make an airtight seal, let me know how it goes!
Lots of pitting on the aluminum (magnesium?) sleeve from water corrosion. This tells me a better water separator and a tool oiler would be advisable on the compressor.
I would have enjoyed seeing an attempt to rehab the sleeve with a cylinder hone. Hard to tell how deep the pitting was.
I'm not sure how bad it would have been if I had just cleaned it by hand. Soaking it, at least for the amount of time I did, completely ruined it. I assume the sleeve was made from a composite of 2 or more types of metal and the cleaner I used ate one of the metals away, leaving the white deposits. I might have been able to save it before the soak, but no amount of honing would have saved it after. :)
It worked 😉
Great! :)
For a novice, what angle nails does this gun take. I can't find anywhere that is says.
Should be 30*
30-33 degree nails will work in this nailer.
Good Desciption video...Just the facts...!! Thanks!!!
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
Got another F350S in for repair, trigger not actuating. Basically perpetually pressed in and won't release outwards
Took out retaining pin and grommet, pulled trigger out and saw there is no spring behind the trigger like at 03:28 in your video
So now I went into the diagram for it to order part and notice there's not even a spring in the diagram.
But I definitely have that little nipple to catch the spring just like in your video
Any ideas?
I see a valve pin spring on my F-350S parts diagram, it's part number 097748.
@@Mikeattemptsisn't that for the spring that sits behind the valve body though? Or maybe same spring\part # is used twice in the gun?
@@caminotorino4547 Oh, sorry, I thought the valve pin spring was the one you were talking about. I don't see that spring in my parts diagram either but any spring that fits around the little nubs would work fine. However, I can't imagine that's why it's leaking. I would assume issue is with the valve. With the trigger off, if you connect an air hose, does it still leak? If so then it doesn't have anything to do with the trigger.
@@Mikeattempts no leaks at all on this specific gun, gun just won't fire cause trigger is basically like it's being held down, I'm assuming since there's no spring
@@caminotorino4547 Hmm, that's odd, I would think air would be rushing out of the valve body if the pin is pressed all the way back.