1:00 you need to put an auto reset breaker next to the car start battery - having that 10 gauge wire traveling through the car unprotected is a potential fire risk if it shorts to the car body anywhere. Other than that, nice setup!
Cool vid. looking to do something similar. Don't need a lot of power, but enough to run a mini fridge, charge phones, Laptop and cameras, etc. Only out for 2-3 days/nights at a time, so this may be all I would ever need. Thanks.
Pretty involved system!! Don’t see any problems with it. I wonder why you didn’t go to LiFePO4 batteries instead. Your temperature monitors would be unnecessary as the BMS in the Li based batteries would take care of things. You will generally get about 4 x the number of charge cycles. If this was done a couple of years ago, there was a much more significant price difference than there is today, so that would be understandable. With todays prices, I just couldn’t justify the AGMs I had been using before, myself. Like I said, your system is great!! Only had the one question. Neither system is incorrect, just different. I have a 2100 sq ft cabin that is off grid, has a 40 x 42 attached garage/shop with a 240 volt Level 2 car charger and a 240 volt for the air compressor. I may install another for the welder, but it’s a smaller welder, enough for me, and I just have wired it so I can use the same plug as the EV charger. It’s just charging up a Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4xe. I use all LiFEPO4 server rack batteries and the system is rated at 15 KW currently. More than enough to run the air conditioning even. The big benefit to the system that’s impractical for automotive systems, is a 2 KW windmill that runs almost constantly. That makes up for bad weather, snow, shorter winter days (in Southern Alberta Canada). The system has its own dedicated 8 x 8 room with cooling and heat that is its own system. It was not cheap though,,,,,,,,. Fun to play with and experiment with!! You are doing quite well!!
If the wire to the DC to DC charger is overheating, you're pushing more amps through than it is rated for. I've most often seen 2 or 4 guage wire for that purpose.
I still don't get the green wire purpose. Why the turn signal fuse? My goal is to set up a 12v battery for the truck cap camper recharged by both car alternator and solar, but I don't want the car battery get drained if the car is not on.
The turn signal is only active when my truck is running. Which is why spliced into it with the y adapter fuse adding in a extra fuse spot would've cost me more money. The green wire is the power wire for the DC to DC charger and is required
Shouldn't directly connect your inverter to your charge controller. It should go charge controller to fuse to battery, then battery to fuse to inverter. If you pop your 100amp breaker the inverter can still try to pull from your charge controller and cause it to short out. Also you Shouldn't run a larger fuse than your controller can handle. Your using a 40a when you have a 20a controller. Just my 2 cents. I'm running a 400 watt renogy system on my truck with the renogy 40amp rover mppt.
I have the 30amp Renogy Wanderer. The 25amp fuse pops if the solar panels surge towards the charge controller. The 40amp fuse on the charge controller pops if a surge goes towards the charge controller from the battery, inverter or fuse panel. When my 100amp fuse pops the entire system shuts off because all the negative and positive wires loop though it. I've tested it many times.
It's around 100 amp hours of usable battery. I run a 12v dometic fridge 24/7 and can charge my phone and run a laptop 3 to 4 hours a day with full sun.
wow, this is a perfect example of why you never buy used. This is a disaster with unprotected, undersized wires just cobbled together by a guy that has no clue what he was doing...
1:00 you need to put an auto reset breaker next to the car start battery - having that 10 gauge wire traveling through the car unprotected is a potential fire risk if it shorts to the car body anywhere. Other than that, nice setup!
holy electrical tape batman!
Thank you. I'm ground zero and this was very helpful.
Thanks for the explanation, great video!
Nice, simple, and clear explanations. Thanks for sharing and happy camping
Interested to how you mounted panels to roof so can handle 70mPH drive wind! Holes in roof? Tilt or not on solar? Thanks
great video!
Cool vid. looking to do something similar. Don't need a lot of power, but enough to run a mini fridge, charge phones, Laptop and cameras, etc. Only out for 2-3 days/nights at a time, so this may be all I would ever need. Thanks.
Pretty involved system!! Don’t see any problems with it.
I wonder why you didn’t go to LiFePO4 batteries instead. Your temperature monitors would be unnecessary as the BMS in the Li based batteries would take care of things. You will generally get about 4 x the number of charge cycles. If this was done a couple of years ago, there was a much more significant price difference than there is today, so that would be understandable. With todays prices, I just couldn’t justify the AGMs I had been using before, myself.
Like I said, your system is great!! Only had the one question. Neither system is incorrect, just different.
I have a 2100 sq ft cabin that is off grid, has a 40 x 42 attached garage/shop with a 240 volt Level 2 car charger and a 240 volt for the air compressor. I may install another for the welder, but it’s a smaller welder, enough for me, and I just have wired it so I can use the same plug as the EV charger. It’s just charging up a Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4xe. I use all LiFEPO4 server rack batteries and the system is rated at 15 KW currently. More than enough to run the air conditioning even. The big benefit to the system that’s impractical for automotive systems, is a 2 KW windmill that runs almost constantly. That makes up for bad weather, snow, shorter winter days (in Southern Alberta Canada). The system has its own dedicated 8 x 8 room with cooling and heat that is its own system. It was not cheap though,,,,,,,,.
Fun to play with and experiment with!! You are doing quite well!!
Wires are way too thin. I would recommend 4/0 wire.
If the wire to the DC to DC charger is overheating, you're pushing more amps through than it is rated for. I've most often seen 2 or 4 guage wire for that purpose.
it's a 20 amp dc to dc charger 2 to 4 guage is overkill. 2 to 4 guage would be used for something pulling over 80 amps
@@kman8001 Maybe, but if the wire is overheating the guage you're using is not enough
I still don't get the green wire purpose. Why the turn signal fuse?
My goal is to set up a 12v battery for the truck cap camper recharged by both car alternator and solar, but I don't want the car battery get drained if the car is not on.
The turn signal is only active when my truck is running. Which is why spliced into it with the y adapter fuse adding in a extra fuse spot would've cost me more money. The green wire is the power wire for the DC to DC charger and is required
Ah thanks. I will try my ignition circuit then.
nice setup. how much was the system?
Rough estimate would be $900 to $1100. Solar panels and battery tech fluctuate in price. This system is a few years old.
Shouldn't directly connect your inverter to your charge controller. It should go charge controller to fuse to battery, then battery to fuse to inverter. If you pop your 100amp breaker the inverter can still try to pull from your charge controller and cause it to short out. Also you Shouldn't run a larger fuse than your controller can handle. Your using a 40a when you have a 20a controller. Just my 2 cents. I'm running a 400 watt renogy system on my truck with the renogy 40amp rover mppt.
I have the 30amp Renogy Wanderer. The 25amp fuse pops if the solar panels surge towards the charge controller. The 40amp fuse on the charge controller pops if a surge goes towards the charge controller from the battery, inverter or fuse panel. When my 100amp fuse pops the entire system shuts off because all the negative and positive wires loop though it. I've tested it many times.
@@kman8001 no problem. I was just letting you know that it isn't the correct way to wire it in but if it works for you that's all that matters!
Do you have a list of materials used?
For gods sake dude buy some shrink tubing
those batteries give off gassing during charging not a good idea inside of a camper
Bro wtf 😳
I need all this?
What could I run on this battery?.
How much can the charge hold?
It's around 100 amp hours of usable battery. I run a 12v dometic fridge 24/7 and can charge my phone and run a laptop 3 to 4 hours a day with full sun.
How much$ ?
I would say around $1500. Solar panels and batteries were more expensive when I bought them.
wow, this is a perfect example of why you never buy used. This is a disaster with unprotected, undersized wires just cobbled together by a guy that has no clue what he was doing...