Wow That Was Great Shooting 😮😀 That Spencer Carbine Really Is a Sweet Shooter I Love That Sound Of The Rifle Shot Echoing Thru That Valley Looking Forward To Your Other Spencer Carbine 😊👍🏼
Thank you! My other Spencer is an original model 1867 full length rifle in .56-50. I hope to film our next trail walk match with that later this summer.
I'm glad you did. I don't post that often. I thought a tad about your channel since YOU ARE THE LEVER GUN GUY, and you could say this is one of the forerunners of lever guns. Normally, I only single load the Spencer in practice and just reload the same brass case all day. It was nice to shoot it as an early repeater in the trail walk. I do have a hypothesis about the jamming, which they are apparently notorious for. Many times, you have to point that gun back and use gravity to help the extractor and then point it down to help the round chamber. Also, when it did jam, I saw deep ridges in the side of the slug, which is much broader than the more conically shaped originals. I somehow think that the broad shape of the slug hangs up more on a sharp edge. The same thing happens in my other Spencer rifle that I hope to debut on the last Sunday of August. Nevertheless, it's great working history in my hands! The cartridges are pretty wimpy, however....especially compared to the manly stuff you run through your rifles!
Lastly, I have noticed that my Spencers tend to jam more when I have fully loaded the magazine tube with 7 rounds. I think the spring pushes harder and harder on the cartridges the fuller the magazine is, and that may also lead to more jamming with the broader reproduction slug forced up against whatever it rubs against in the chambering process.
Little House Guy how hard is it to get cartridges and stuff for the reloading? I’ve always been interested in spencers, I think it would be a cool hunting gun. I really am enjoying your videos.
@@Leverguns50 The primary difference in getting loading paraphernalia for Spencer rifles and carbines is the distinction between replica and original Spencers. Although replicas can be chambered in other rounds (.45 Colt is common), many prefer the cartridge that simulates the original as closely as possible, which is the .56-.50. You can easily get .56-.50 brass from Starline, but that brass is for replica Spencers only. If you have an original, the replica .56-.50 brass will not chamber. If you acquire an original, you'll need to buy cut down .50-70 brass, which has been reamed out a bit, but more importantly, has had the case rims thinned to match the rim thickness of original cases. To my knowledge, originals between 1860 and 1865 shot the .56-.56 cartridge, which commonly used a .539 heeled projectile (370 grains). Not only did I buy the modified brass from Buffalo Arms in Idaho, I also bought the mold. To my knowledge, originals also had slight variations in bore size. I slugged mine and decided the common .539 would be fine. I believe the model 1865 and later all switched to the improved cartridge of .56-50. Again, it is the same thing for replicas and originals, the latter requiring a cut down, reamed out, and rim-thinned .50-70 case. Also, those cartridges didn't use a heeled bullet. My model 1867 Spencer full length rifle that I've yet to debut shoots the same weight slug (370 grains) but is .520 in diameter. With the .56-.56 cartridges, I can only get 35 grains of FF Goex in them, and that is really compressing the hell out of the powder. With my .56-.50 (a longer case too), I can get 40 grains of FF Goex in them. The cracked centerfire-conversion breech blocks came from Buffalo Arms, so the one that has held up came from S & S Firearms in New York. Perhaps the mainsprings of my Spencers hit them too hard? I hope this all helps; write to me anytime. This has all been a long laborious learning process. My employment has been affected by this Covid debacle, so I won't be purchasing additional black powder pieces for a while. Darn, I have others on my list I wish I could go for but can't at the moment. Finally, casting my own projectiles for my 19th century originals has set me free, so I do recommend learning how to do it if you ever do get into black powder originals. Either way, if you ever acquire an original, I don't mind casting up some projectiles and mailing them to you to get you at least started.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Where is this range your shooting on? I haven't seen you picking up your empties in this and others videos. Spencers take work getting overall length right which depends a lot on case length is why I ask. Thanks for your work.
Thank you, Sir! I marvel at the history in my hands when I shoot it! My Grandmother took me to France in 1989. Yeah, I'm still looking for an 1866 Chassepot.
Thanks! I must remain politically correct. However, a few have commented to me on some of my politically incorrect accoutrements I have worn in some of my other videos.
Awesome shooting I love these old firearms,I will most likely be purchasing one in 50-65.Where is the best place to buy blackpowder shells.I fully restored an 1852 John Hetrick in 36 cal that was a great squirrel gun.I have a real fascination with these old Civil War firearms probably because my Great Great Grandfather's photo from 1862 intrigues me.
Are you looking for empty cases or cartridges that are already loaded using black powder? It really depends upon the round. However, Buffalo Arms in Idaho sells quite a few black powder cases and different loaded ammunition.
I cast all of my own projectiles, but I got the brass at Buffalo Arms in Idaho. You do have an original, right? That distinction is important when ordering reloading paraphernalia.
I bought this piece at the 2019 Las Vegas Antique Arms Show for $3,000. It had the original rimfire breech block in it, and I use this centerfire conversion that conveniently fits in both this carbine and my other Spencer piece that I have yet to debut- a model 1867 Spencer rifle in .56-.50.
@@littlehouseguy7782 I’m looking at an 1860 Spencer right now at auction. It’s only going for $200 with a few days left as many people around here don’t know what a spender is
Nice shooting Presbyopia sucks. I really need different glasses for iron sights. I keep thinking about getting the S&S conversion block for my 1865 Burnside production Spencer. Any thoughts. A few months ago I ordered a NOS replacement rim fire firing pin off eBay. I have been around the Carbine for decades and never realized the firing pin was missing until I pulled it out of the safe along with several other Civil War Carbines after InRange posted a video on them. Cleaning a Model 1843 Hall Carbine is a lot of work. I am not sure it had been done in 80 to 100 years, or more. I have questions about loading for a Burnside. I would really like to find a video on loading Burnside Cartridges with .562 round balls. Not knowing how to clean black powder firearms has prevented me form considering firing much of my collection. Now that I have learned what is required. I am considering firing more of it. Still not sure about a flintlock. Cleaning is still a consideration. How do you clean a Spencer, Burnside. Or Trapdoor.? A muzzle loader like an 1841/ 1861 I can see and have made tube adapters for connecting plastic tubing to the nipple threads after watching videos from Cap and Ball, and MannyCA on cleaning muzzle loaders. Proper cleaning is a big deal and not often shown in enough detail. Of all the black powder guns I have the Maynard is the easiest to clean after making an o-ring jag. Keep the videos coming Geoff
I am sorry to hear about your presbyopia. I myself am starting to have problems seeing up close. The breech block conversion that I used in this video is one from S&S. Make sure not to buy .56-.50 cases for replica Spencers. You'll need cases that are meant for originals. The rims are different. I don't use round balls in my Burnside, but there are reloading videos for it on you tube. Here's one: th-cam.com/video/HVo1CZ0BM2E/w-d-xo.html. The main issue is coming up with a tool or way to seat the projectile in the case since there really is no die set. I use a two-step process my .50-70 die set with no shell holder since the case is narrow at the bottom and sits in the slot where the shell holder would go. Then I raise it to start the projectile in making sure it goes in straight. In regard to cleaning, I think I would say that cleaning a black powder gun is an issue in the sense that you generally need to do it immediately following your practice session. Letting it sit dirty is certainly not what I would recommend. If your bore is good and not as pitted, using hot, soapy water or other black powder solvent mixed with water is fine using a tight-fitting patch. If it is really dirty (and slightly pitted) then I may put a patch on a brush to clean it better. I also frequently use mop brushes dipped in the solution and will even run water in a funnel down in the breech. For the Spencer and Burnside, I do remove the breech block and clean those in soapy water with a tooth brush. I usually dry things off with an air compressor. Following, you'll need to oil the piece. I prefer Ballistol, for it works as a solvent and oiler; however there are also other great substitutes. For muzzle loaders, I normally remove the barrel and let the breech end sit in a bucket of soapy water while I go up and down in it with a mop brush, pulling the water up it. Following, I use a solvent and then some gun oil. I do remove nipples and/or touch hole screws when possible. For me, black powder cap and ball revolvers take the longest to clean properly. Good luck!
Hi Erick! Im having a problem whit mine and i wondered if you could help me out!!! i have the same gun but something failed, the magazine tube is stucked in the gun but the spring and cap are still toguether, i went shoting and as soon as i wanted to remove the tube it was gone! it just fell apart!!! you know how can i get the tube out of there and fix it after that? Sadly im currently living in a country where this firears cant be easily treated, hope you can help me, thanks.!
Other than buying original ammo, which is expensive and collectible, you'll need to make your own cartridges for it. It is possible to reload a rimfire case using a .22 blank that you put in. Dixie Gun Works sells all that. However, the best thing to do is to get a centerfire breechblock conversion and centerfire brass and learn how to load and cast your own projectiles for it. Be sure to read the description in my video before ordering brass as originals and replicas in the same caliber fire a different case.
@@HistoryChannel1776 If you are looking for modern-made rimfire ammo then no, not to my knowledge. They still made black powder rimfire cartridges for Spencers up until the 30s. Buffalo Arms in Idaho may make centerfire ammo, which you would need a conversion block for it to shoot. If you have a model 1860, then it will most likely be in .56-.56, not the more common .56-50 ammo.
Eric, Great Shooting as Always! I even saw myself in the background miss a shot, thanks, LOL! BTW, any difference in accuracy between your 56-56 & your 56-50? Thanks again.
Yeah, that was a good day. In regard to your question, no real difference. The model 1867 rifle I have in in .56-.50 doesn't have as good of a bore as this model 1860, so I can't really make a good assessment. The bore in my model 1860 looks like it was never used! It was nice to be out making movies again! Remember to start practicing with a cap and ball revolver for the 18-shot handgun walkthrough I have in the works!
This piece doesn't take paper cartridges and never did.. It takes a rimfire metallic cartridge. I have a centerfire breech block conversion that allows me to use centerfire, not rimfire, cartridges in this piece.
I fabricate all my own ammo in my garage. Last I checked, I saw that Buffalo Arms did sell preloaded .56-.50 ammo for centerfire converted rifles but not .56--.56. You'll want to take a look at (expand) the description paragraph I have written below the video. I give quite a few details about how I make the ammo. Let me know if you need more specific help.
@@joelfurrow3810 I ordered two centerfire breechblocks from Buffalo Arms, but they both cracked on me. I have settled on one I bought at S&S in New York, which can be purchased here: www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SP176. Is your Spencer .56-.56 or .56-50? I don't (and don't think I can legally) ship ammunition from California. However, message me privately, and I will see what I can do to help you get your Spencer shooting.
The mould I bought for this came from Buffalo Arms. I have thought of using round balls in it with a reloadable "rimfire" cartridge using .22 blanks that Dixie sells, but I I wanted the ballistic performance of conicals. Otherwise, I may not have become so dangerous with this carbine!
@@robertrobert7924 Their website is, unfortunately, difficult to navigate. If you go to google, type in Buffalo Arms and then what you want, it should pop right up.
I brought my Spencer home after 10 days (California), but there is no sign of 44=40 ammunition. I will have to do some serious looking as I don't have the ability to load my own yet.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Thank you for the offer, but I live in the San Francisco Bay Area and it is a bit of a drive. ;-) I am somewhat familiar with the area as my wife is from the Cuyama Valley. I have been to Newhall and Castic on some of my trips to Southern California.
I meant to reply to you but did it incorrectly: I cast all of my own projectiles, but I got the brass at Buffalo Arms in Idaho. You do have an original, right? That distinction is important when ordering reloading paraphernalia.
@@mikellmoore2911 I bought both the brass cases and the bullet mould from Buffalo Arms in Idaho. Make sure you get the cases for original .56-.56 Spencers, not replicas. Also, you may want to slug your barrel. My Spencer takes a .539-inch projectile, 370 grains. I DON'T recommend that you buy the centerfire breech block conversion from Buffalo Arms. I had THREE of them crack in the first few shots; the metal is too brittle, I think. I got mine from S&S Firearms in New York, and it is holding up reasonably well- www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SP176. Let me know what else you're having trouble with and good luck!
I forgot to mention at the end that I loaded the .56-.56 cartridge with 35 grains of FF Goex. It is a wimpy charge but is the maximum I can get in the case using a lot of compression. It is a heeled bullet with an exposed grease groove.
@@littlehouseguy7782 how.. You hit everything. You can hit a fly mid air with one eye closed with the rifle behind your back shooting from your weak side.
@@northernwoodsman The "power" of editing! Yes, I hit a lot of dingers (that's true), but they are bigger. I don't win bench matches shooting on paper. I don't do poorly, but I am not even close to winning those. Those guys can shoot circles around me as they get 3 inch groups at 100 yards, all with original 19th century rifles.
If any are interested in acquiring brass for Spencers and reloading paraphernalia, please see my final reply to Leverguns 50. There's a big difference between replica and original Spencers, so check it out before you drop mega bucks!
Once one gets used to simi-cocking then lever in a round then full cock.. not real hard to fire with some speed. Way way ahead of the standard Civil War muzzle loaders of that day!
Came here to see him reload the rifle and that's tge *one thing* he skips. 🤦🏻♂️ Surprisingly hard to find a video that shows a reload. Great video though.
Sorry to disappoint you on the reloading. However, my latest Spencer video with my 1867 Spencer new model military rifle does show me reload from a Blakeslee box.
Wow That Was Great Shooting 😮😀 That Spencer Carbine Really Is a Sweet Shooter I Love That Sound Of The Rifle Shot Echoing Thru That Valley Looking Forward To Your Other Spencer Carbine 😊👍🏼
Thank you! My other Spencer is an original model 1867 full length rifle in .56-50. I hope to film our next trail walk match with that later this summer.
Yeah, the thunder of black powder is indescribable!
I really enjoyed this video loved hearing about the conversion to centerfire, thanks for the info, I need to get me one of these Lever action rifles
I'm glad you did. I don't post that often. I thought a tad about your channel since YOU ARE THE LEVER GUN GUY, and you could say this is one of the forerunners of lever guns. Normally, I only single load the Spencer in practice and just reload the same brass case all day. It was nice to shoot it as an early repeater in the trail walk. I do have a hypothesis about the jamming, which they are apparently notorious for. Many times, you have to point that gun back and use gravity to help the extractor and then point it down to help the round chamber. Also, when it did jam, I saw deep ridges in the side of the slug, which is much broader than the more conically shaped originals. I somehow think that the broad shape of the slug hangs up more on a sharp edge. The same thing happens in my other Spencer rifle that I hope to debut on the last Sunday of August. Nevertheless, it's great working history in my hands! The cartridges are pretty wimpy, however....especially compared to the manly stuff you run through your rifles!
Lastly, I have noticed that my Spencers tend to jam more when I have fully loaded the magazine tube with 7 rounds. I think the spring pushes harder and harder on the cartridges the fuller the magazine is, and that may also lead to more jamming with the broader reproduction slug forced up against whatever it rubs against in the chambering process.
Little House Guy how hard is it to get cartridges and stuff for the reloading? I’ve always been interested in spencers, I think it would be a cool hunting gun. I really am enjoying your videos.
@@Leverguns50 The primary difference in getting loading paraphernalia for Spencer rifles and carbines is the distinction between replica and original Spencers. Although replicas can be chambered in other rounds (.45 Colt is common), many prefer the cartridge that simulates the original as closely as possible, which is the .56-.50. You can easily get .56-.50 brass from Starline, but that brass is for replica Spencers only. If you have an original, the replica .56-.50 brass will not chamber. If you acquire an original, you'll need to buy cut down .50-70 brass, which has been reamed out a bit, but more importantly, has had the case rims thinned to match the rim thickness of original cases. To my knowledge, originals between 1860 and 1865 shot the .56-.56 cartridge, which commonly used a .539 heeled projectile (370 grains). Not only did I buy the modified brass from Buffalo Arms in Idaho, I also bought the mold. To my knowledge, originals also had slight variations in bore size. I slugged mine and decided the common .539 would be fine. I believe the model 1865 and later all switched to the improved cartridge of .56-50. Again, it is the same thing for replicas and originals, the latter requiring a cut down, reamed out, and rim-thinned .50-70 case. Also, those cartridges didn't use a heeled bullet. My model 1867 Spencer full length rifle that I've yet to debut shoots the same weight slug (370 grains) but is .520 in diameter. With the .56-.56 cartridges, I can only get 35 grains of FF Goex in them, and that is really compressing the hell out of the powder. With my .56-.50 (a longer case too), I can get 40 grains of FF Goex in them. The cracked centerfire-conversion breech blocks came from Buffalo Arms, so the one that has held up came from S & S Firearms in New York. Perhaps the mainsprings of my Spencers hit them too hard? I hope this all helps; write to me anytime. This has all been a long laborious learning process. My employment has been affected by this Covid debacle, so I won't be purchasing additional black powder pieces for a while. Darn, I have others on my list I wish I could go for but can't at the moment. Finally, casting my own projectiles for my 19th century originals has set me free, so I do recommend learning how to do it if you ever do get into black powder originals. Either way, if you ever acquire an original, I don't mind casting up some projectiles and mailing them to you to get you at least started.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Where is this range your shooting on? I haven't seen you picking up your empties in this and others videos. Spencers take work getting overall length right which depends a lot on case length is why I ask.
Thanks for your work.
Great aim and nice filming! I enjoyed watching you do something you love.
Oh my! Thanks! Family fans! Can you believe it is all filmed on an iPhone?
If any are interested in seeing the centerfire breechblock conversion and the ammunition, be sure to start watching at 10 minutes, 23 seconds.
Nice vidéo dude! Greetings from France 🇨🇵
Thank you, Sir! I marvel at the history in my hands when I shoot it! My Grandmother took me to France in 1989. Yeah, I'm still looking for an 1866 Chassepot.
Pretty good shootin for a Yankee. Glad to see a new video stay healthy brother.
Thanks! I must remain politically correct. However, a few have commented to me on some of my politically incorrect accoutrements I have worn in some of my other videos.
Great video!!! I would have like to seen the sword in action too since he brought it with him!!!
I would need to take some lessons with that in order not to be a dufus wirh it.
I find cutting down 8mm Label and fire forming the case makes a great 56-56 cartridge case. These have very good brass cases with thin walls.
That sounds nice. Mine are cut down, reemed out, rim thinned .50-.70 cases.
Awesome shooting I love these old firearms,I will most likely be purchasing one in 50-65.Where is the best place to buy blackpowder shells.I fully restored an 1852 John Hetrick in 36 cal that was a great squirrel gun.I have a real fascination with these old Civil War firearms probably because my Great Great Grandfather's photo from 1862 intrigues me.
Are you looking for empty cases or cartridges that are already loaded using black powder? It really depends upon the round. However, Buffalo Arms in Idaho sells quite a few black powder cases and different loaded ammunition.
I cast all of my own projectiles, but I got the brass at Buffalo Arms in Idaho. You do have an original, right? That distinction is important when ordering reloading paraphernalia.
How much does an original run you? Did you buy the centerfire conversion or did it come installed?
I bought this piece at the 2019 Las Vegas Antique Arms Show for $3,000. It had the original rimfire breech block in it, and I use this centerfire conversion that conveniently fits in both this carbine and my other Spencer piece that I have yet to debut- a model 1867 Spencer rifle in .56-.50.
@@littlehouseguy7782 I’m looking at an 1860 Spencer right now at auction. It’s only going for $200 with a few days left as many people around here don’t know what a spender is
wow this is awesome
You give me too much credit! It is a satisfying original carbine, though!
Very nice video. I will probably be buying a reproduction Spencer this week. It will be in 44-40 as that is the only one the store has in stock.
That's a nice cartridge.
Nice shooting
Presbyopia sucks. I really need different glasses for iron sights.
I keep thinking about getting the S&S conversion block for my 1865 Burnside production Spencer. Any thoughts.
A few months ago I ordered a NOS replacement rim fire firing pin off eBay. I have been around the Carbine for decades and never realized the firing pin was missing until I pulled it out of the safe along with several other Civil War Carbines after InRange posted a video on them. Cleaning a Model 1843 Hall Carbine is a lot of work. I am not sure it had been done in 80 to 100 years, or more.
I have questions about loading for a Burnside. I would really like to find a video on loading Burnside Cartridges with .562 round balls.
Not knowing how to clean black powder firearms has prevented me form considering firing much of my collection. Now that I have learned what is required. I am considering firing more of it. Still not sure about a flintlock. Cleaning is still a consideration. How do you clean a Spencer, Burnside. Or Trapdoor.? A muzzle loader like an 1841/ 1861 I can see and have made tube adapters for connecting plastic tubing to the nipple threads after watching videos from Cap and Ball, and MannyCA on cleaning muzzle loaders. Proper cleaning is a big deal and not often shown in enough detail.
Of all the black powder guns I have the Maynard is the easiest to clean after making an o-ring jag.
Keep the videos coming
Geoff
I am sorry to hear about your presbyopia. I myself am starting to have problems seeing up close. The breech block conversion that I used in this video is one from S&S. Make sure not to buy .56-.50 cases for replica Spencers. You'll need cases that are meant for originals. The rims are different. I don't use round balls in my Burnside, but there are reloading videos for it on you tube. Here's one: th-cam.com/video/HVo1CZ0BM2E/w-d-xo.html. The main issue is coming up with a tool or way to seat the projectile in the case since there really is no die set. I use a two-step process my .50-70 die set with no shell holder since the case is narrow at the bottom and sits in the slot where the shell holder would go. Then I raise it to start the projectile in making sure it goes in straight. In regard to cleaning, I think I would say that cleaning a black powder gun is an issue in the sense that you generally need to do it immediately following your practice session. Letting it sit dirty is certainly not what I would recommend. If your bore is good and not as pitted, using hot, soapy water or other black powder solvent mixed with water is fine using a tight-fitting patch. If it is really dirty (and slightly pitted) then I may put a patch on a brush to clean it better. I also frequently use mop brushes dipped in the solution and will even run water in a funnel down in the breech. For the Spencer and Burnside, I do remove the breech block and clean those in soapy water with a tooth brush. I usually dry things off with an air compressor. Following, you'll need to oil the piece. I prefer Ballistol, for it works as a solvent and oiler; however there are also other great substitutes. For muzzle loaders, I normally remove the barrel and let the breech end sit in a bucket of soapy water while I go up and down in it with a mop brush, pulling the water up it. Following, I use a solvent and then some gun oil. I do remove nipples and/or touch hole screws when possible. For me, black powder cap and ball revolvers take the longest to clean properly.
Good luck!
Hi Erick! Im having a problem whit mine and i wondered if you could help me out!!! i have the same gun but something failed, the magazine tube is stucked in the gun but the spring and cap are still toguether, i went shoting and as soon as i wanted to remove the tube it was gone! it just fell apart!!! you know how can i get the tube out of there and fix it after that? Sadly im currently living in a country where this firears cant be easily treated, hope you can help me, thanks.!
No entiendo exactamente qué es el problema por su descripción.. ¿Lo puede disparar cargando sólo un cartucho a la vez por la culata?
¿Es que el cargador no sale del tubo?
@@littlehouseguy7782 are you writing in spanish? Or is youtube traducing to me
@@moresupervivenciaespanol1369 I can write in Spanish. I don't use translators.
@@littlehouseguy7782 okkkk el problema que tiene es que el tubo quedó dentro del arma, y el resorte y la tapa de este salieron expulsados
I have an 1860 Spencer carbine. Can I buy ammo for it ?
Other than buying original ammo, which is expensive and collectible, you'll need to make your own cartridges for it. It is possible to reload a rimfire case using a .22 blank that you put in. Dixie Gun Works sells all that. However, the best thing to do is to get a centerfire breechblock conversion and centerfire brass and learn how to load and cast your own projectiles for it. Be sure to read the description in my video before ordering brass as originals and replicas in the same caliber fire a different case.
Little House Guy Thanks for your response. Does any company make the ammo ?
@@HistoryChannel1776 If you are looking for modern-made rimfire ammo then no, not to my knowledge. They still made black powder rimfire cartridges for Spencers up until the 30s. Buffalo Arms in Idaho may make centerfire ammo, which you would need a conversion block for it to shoot. If you have a model 1860, then it will most likely be in .56-.56, not the more common .56-50 ammo.
If you send me your phone number to littlehouseguy@gmail.com, I will give you a call and help you the best that I can.
Eric, Great Shooting as Always! I even saw myself in the background miss a shot, thanks, LOL! BTW, any difference in accuracy between your 56-56 & your 56-50? Thanks again.
Yeah, that was a good day. In regard to your question, no real difference. The model 1867 rifle I have in in .56-.50 doesn't have as good of a bore as this model 1860, so I can't really make a good assessment. The bore in my model 1860 looks like it was never used! It was nice to be out making movies again! Remember to start practicing with a cap and ball revolver for the 18-shot handgun walkthrough I have in the works!
How you reload whit paper catridge???
This piece doesn't take paper cartridges and never did.. It takes a rimfire metallic cartridge. I have a centerfire breech block conversion that allows me to use centerfire, not rimfire, cartridges in this piece.
Awesome stuff. Where do you get the ammo? Would love to get mine in shooting condition and try it.
I fabricate all my own ammo in my garage. Last I checked, I saw that Buffalo Arms did sell preloaded .56-.50 ammo for centerfire converted rifles but not .56--.56. You'll want to take a look at (expand) the description paragraph I have written below the video. I give quite a few details about how I make the ammo. Let me know if you need more specific help.
@@littlehouseguy7782 good stuff. thanks for that info. how would I source a center fire breechblock? And do you do any custom orders for ammo?
@@joelfurrow3810 I ordered two centerfire breechblocks from Buffalo Arms, but they both cracked on me. I have settled on one I bought at S&S in New York, which can be purchased here: www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SP176. Is your Spencer .56-.56 or .56-50? I don't (and don't think I can legally) ship ammunition from California. However, message me privately, and I will see what I can do to help you get your Spencer shooting.
Eric, who makes your moulds for you (56-56 heeled bullets, .539). Have you ever used a .535 or larger lead round ball as a single shot experiment?
The mould I bought for this came from Buffalo Arms. I have thought of using round balls in it with a reloadable "rimfire" cartridge using .22 blanks that Dixie sells, but I I wanted the ballistic performance of conicals. Otherwise, I may not have become so dangerous with this carbine!
@@littlehouseguy7782 Thankyou for your reply. I guess I need to look at Buff Arms website. Have not been there for quite a while.
@@robertrobert7924 Their website is, unfortunately, difficult to navigate. If you go to google, type in Buffalo Arms and then what you want, it should pop right up.
@@littlehouseguy7782 OK, thanks again.
I brought my Spencer home after 10 days (California), but there is no sign of 44=40 ammunition. I will have to do some serious looking as I don't have the ability to load my own yet.
If you live by Piru, CA, I can load some up for you to shoot at our black powder range.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Thank you for the offer, but I live in the San Francisco Bay Area and it is a bit of a drive. ;-) I am somewhat familiar with the area as my wife is from the Cuyama Valley. I have been to Newhall and Castic on some of my trips to Southern California.
can these be loaded one round at a time ?
Yes, they can. The Model 1860 is tricky, but it can be done. The extractor can get in the way.
Where are you locating .56-56 ammo have my own spencer and all I've found is .56-50
I meant to reply to you but did it incorrectly: I cast all of my own projectiles, but I got the brass at Buffalo Arms in Idaho. You do have an original, right? That distinction is important when ordering reloading paraphernalia.
Yes I do ive had it for month now and have had issues finding supplies I need
@@mikellmoore2911 I bought both the brass cases and the bullet mould from Buffalo Arms in Idaho. Make sure you get the cases for original .56-.56 Spencers, not replicas. Also, you may want to slug your barrel. My Spencer takes a .539-inch projectile, 370 grains. I DON'T recommend that you buy the centerfire breech block conversion from Buffalo Arms. I had THREE of them crack in the first few shots; the metal is too brittle, I think. I got mine from S&S Firearms in New York, and it is holding up reasonably well- www.ssfirearms.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SP176. Let me know what else you're having trouble with and good luck!
That laugh when he scores a hit. :)
It's all natural too!
Always have a sabre on the other side of the hip, or saber (In American English).
Yep!
Neat
Thanks. I have enjoyed getting to know and respect this great historical piece.
Can you show us the ammo?
I do show it a tad at the end of the video. It was all in just one take, unfortunately.
I am sorry that I have been reticent to do extended talking in videos.
I forgot to mention at the end that I loaded the .56-.56 cartridge with 35 grains of FF Goex. It is a wimpy charge but is the maximum I can get in the case using a lot of compression. It is a heeled bullet with an exposed grease groove.
Was finally able to find some 44-40 ammunition today. Now I will be able to shoot my Spencer.
Good to hear!
I wish I could shoot like that! I just put a shooting video up but it isnt anything liked this!
You are too kind and humble!
@@littlehouseguy7782 Not really, just honest :D
@@northernwoodsman I ain't nothing compared to the more senior members in my group. I rarely win a match!
@@littlehouseguy7782 how.. You hit everything. You can hit a fly mid air with one eye closed with the rifle behind your back shooting from your weak side.
@@northernwoodsman The "power" of editing! Yes, I hit a lot of dingers (that's true), but they are bigger. I don't win bench matches shooting on paper. I don't do poorly, but I am not even close to winning those. Those guys can shoot circles around me as they get 3 inch groups at 100 yards, all with original 19th century rifles.
*Union Dixie plays aggressively in the background*
Yeah, that would get me really going!
If any are interested in acquiring brass for Spencers and reloading paraphernalia, please see my final reply to Leverguns 50. There's a big difference between replica and original Spencers, so check it out before you drop mega bucks!
Once one gets used to simi-cocking then lever in a round then full cock.. not real hard to fire with some speed. Way way ahead of the standard Civil War muzzle loaders of that day!
Came here to see him reload the rifle and that's tge *one thing* he skips. 🤦🏻♂️
Surprisingly hard to find a video that shows a reload. Great video though.
Sorry to disappoint you on the reloading. However, my latest Spencer video with my 1867 Spencer new model military rifle does show me reload from a Blakeslee box.
@@littlehouseguy7782 Thanks! I'll check that out.
The more I learn about history the More I convert from being pro-North anti-South
I find value in being knowledgeable about a variety and often conflicting perspectives. Perhaps, it actually facilitates tolerance!
The south was on the right.