Belle réalisation ! 2 questions me viennent à l'esprit en regardant les 2 vidéos: - les panneaux de vermiculite pour coiffer le foyer et pour le venturi sont-ils appropriés sur le long terme pour supporter de hautes températures ? - Où trouver les références du conduit en céramique de la cheminée interne ? . Je n'ai rien trouvé sur internet concernant Rhonda Plus, ni Shadow... . . S'agit-il d'une pièce moulée fait-maison par un internaute ? Merci pour vos réponses !
What, no oven???? Sigh.. And here I thought I could build mine in a few hours! Sigh... I'm using mine to heat the bed / stratification chamber, and then the whole 2 big rooms...
I saw 3 mistakes in this construction. This heater will work but it could have been much more energy efficient if there were no mistakes made in construction. 1. Why would you insulate a heat riser with a Rockwool? Rockwool does not accumulate heat. Makes no sense. 2. The brick with holes is made to insulate not to accumulate. While it still is going to accumulate and spread heat full brick would have done a much better job. 3. Why would you use the insulated chimney inside the space that needs to be heated? An insulated chimney is used on the outside! In the room, you want to use the heat of that chimney pipe! Possibly lay it down the side of some walls or make a hot bench before rising it up and out to the roof.
The riser is insulated with ceramic blanket, not rockwool. The riser needs to be insulated to help the draft which in turn makes for a better burn and increase overall efficiency. Please educate yourself before condemning the work of others.
1. The insulation on the heat riser concentrates the heat for a more complete burn of the smoke. This causes a cleaner burn. The whole burn chamber/riser should be insulated. 2. The stratification chamber should be pulling most of the heat out, so an insulated chimney can save the last bit needed for helping with the draft. 3. While I prefer the brick too, I think there's a reason for doing a double envelope that I can't remember for certain right now. Maybe the extra mass to hold and radiate the heat? Adding another layer of brick or maybe rock would appeal more to me, but it's not my heater so not my choice. 4. Not sure why he used bricks with holes, but a lot of people use secondhand bricks. Finding real red clay bricks instead of concrete bricks made to look like red clay can be difficult too.
Thanks for you queries. I'll try to address them here: 1) The ceramic blanket is there to heat the riser to even higher temperatures for a cleaner burn 2) I had access to hole bricks, and you're right, full bricks would be the better solution 3) Insulated chimney is the easier way to meet planning requirment locally (which are a boat load !) so I didn't want to use any more time on the chimney than was necessary.
♥ live long and heated matt and peter
Love the chicken monitor
Belle réalisation !
2 questions me viennent à l'esprit en regardant les 2 vidéos:
- les panneaux de vermiculite pour coiffer le foyer et pour le venturi sont-ils appropriés sur le long terme pour supporter de hautes températures ?
- Où trouver les références du conduit en céramique de la cheminée interne ?
. Je n'ai rien trouvé sur internet concernant Rhonda Plus, ni Shadow... .
. S'agit-il d'une pièce moulée fait-maison par un internaute ?
Merci pour vos réponses !
How cool!
So the white brick lining the walls are what
It's merely to insulate the wooden wall behind them from the oven. Planning requirements here insist on 10cm brick or similar.
What type of cement did you use to withstand the high heat/temperature?
either use clay slip or refractory cement.
clay slip was my choice. If you have a brick chiney you can use normal mortar once you get out of the "heat zone" of the oven
Did the heat riser not crack. I tried that chimney pipe and crack 5 mins into first burn
Same thing here, pipes cracked quickly. At the second stove I used refractory bricks.
What, no oven???? Sigh..
And here I thought I could build mine in a few hours! Sigh... I'm using mine to heat the bed / stratification chamber, and then the whole 2 big rooms...
I saw 3 mistakes in this construction. This heater will work but it could have been much more energy efficient if there were no mistakes made in construction.
1. Why would you insulate a heat riser with a Rockwool? Rockwool does not accumulate heat. Makes no sense.
2. The brick with holes is made to insulate not to accumulate. While it still is going to accumulate and spread heat full brick would have done a much better job.
3. Why would you use the insulated chimney inside the space that needs to be heated? An insulated chimney is used on the outside! In the room, you want to use the heat of that chimney pipe! Possibly lay it down the side of some walls or make a hot bench before rising it up and out to the roof.
plus the motor over the beautiful brick looks like shit
The riser is insulated with ceramic blanket, not rockwool. The riser needs to be insulated to help the draft which in turn makes for a better burn and increase overall efficiency.
Please educate yourself before condemning the work of others.
@loganm82
1. The insulation on the heat riser concentrates the heat for a more complete burn of the smoke. This causes a cleaner burn. The whole burn chamber/riser should be insulated.
2. The stratification chamber should be pulling most of the heat out, so an insulated chimney can save the last bit needed for helping with the draft.
3. While I prefer the brick too, I think there's a reason for doing a double envelope that I can't remember for certain right now. Maybe the extra mass to hold and radiate the heat? Adding another layer of brick or maybe rock would appeal more to me, but it's not my heater so not my choice.
4. Not sure why he used bricks with holes, but a lot of people use secondhand bricks. Finding real red clay bricks instead of concrete bricks made to look like red clay can be difficult too.
Thanks for you queries. I'll try to address them here:
1) The ceramic blanket is there to heat the riser to even higher temperatures for a cleaner burn
2) I had access to hole bricks, and you're right, full bricks would be the better solution
3) Insulated chimney is the easier way to meet planning requirment locally (which are a boat load !) so I didn't want to use any more time on the chimney than was necessary.
Dude get a lot of dust
Yup, and thankfully I didn't see the inside of my lungs after that :)