Great video. Got the same rig with the cartridge. When replacing the bag, I always struggled to get it in the right spot to do up the clamp. Until someone told me to use magnets. 5 small magnets make the job almost hassle free.
I tell you what Steve, I was told about that little trick and never bloody did anything about it. Just kept struggling with my clamp 😂 I’m pretty sure I’ve got some magnets laying around as well so I’ll get on that next change!
Hello my friend, As a dust collector, I made 3 types myself. However, I realized that the best thing is to buy it from the ready-made store. Because I didn't do very well. It is one of the most important machines for the workshop. And it is definitely a great need. I watched a good video. Thank you for explaining the details. stay healthy and happy. Stay dust free :-) see you soon. big greetings.
Yeah man! Great review of a classic tool design. One thing I would add, with all extractors with the felt bags on them, be sure to have the door open and a mask on when next you fire up the machine. If you work all day with it running static builds in the bag and the little shit will actually collect on the outside of the bag. You turn it off for the night, it settles down, the static dissipates, and when next you turn it on the bag does that big thwump thing that they do and through the tiny bits everywhere. And it’s the tiny bits that’ll kill you. That’s the main reason I upgraded to a cartridge years ago. That lung pump is brutal.
Helpful reveiw, thank you, love watching aussie videos! Is it important to use a grounding kit? Also do you recommend the Hi Flex PVC hose? I would be mainly connecting the dust extractor to my Carbetec Jointer/thicknesser and tablesaw.
@@stephduncan9194 to be honest I haven’t done enough research into grounding kits to make comment on whether they are important. I haven’t had any issues with my setup as is, touch wood. Yeah I’ve always used the flex hose. It does great, unless you accidentally step on it, then you get holes 😂 but it’s really handy when you’ve got portable machines or are unable to hook up permanent lines
I'm struggling to find any info on how to connect the 1200 to my other machines, all of which, except the thicknesser, have smaller than 4 inch dust outlets
Reducers mate. If you head into your local Carbatec they will have a range of different dust collection accessories. It can be a bit like a puzzle, but they will have a solution!
I'm with you, mate, bag changes are the pits, I'm thinking about a cyclone attachment hook up.🤔 That's a grouse deal with the two pipes at the bottom.👌🏽 Cheers for the rundown. 👍🏽
Carbatec actually sell a big cyclone with a drum bin that hooks up to this. Footprint is the issue for me at the moment. Could be a worthy investment though!
@@JNDCreations Yeah, footprint is a big issue when you don't have any to spare. I've seen some cleverly wall mounted units with the cyclone sitting underneath.👍🏽
For just a scroll saw mate I’d probably recommend a shop vac that fits your budget. I’ve got a Festool one which is great, turns on when the tool does etc, but you can get them super cheap and basic as well!
ever thought of creating an all metal cylinder container or a wooden box to replace the plastic bag? obviously you'll have to use some rubber seals to seal the gaps but could be better than the bloody plastic bag?! If you decide on doing this make a video on it id love to see what you do !
Well, if it's that bad, make a reusable head you connect the bag to then connect the head to the unit. You can incorporate any means of shutting the heads opening prior to disconnecting it as you choose. Then you take the bag to wherever you dispose of the sawdust and deal with it there in whatever fashion you usually do. May I recommend viewing the material as a raw product for another manufactured product, chemical treatment of wood permitting.... U could add an epoxy/adhesive and vacuum form it into whatever shaper you want and paint/seal it with whatever suits the use/nature that the shapes design is intended for... Or you could possibly add a lightly combustible material and binding agent and press it into small-large briquettes for home/outdoor fire starting. You could vacuum form it into flat sheets for use as sacrificial surfaces.... Anything.
@@JNDCreations Thankyou for your polite response. I was half wondering if it would be received on the manner I intended. (As a hopefully helpful and thought provoking comment, not only for yourself and/or your own circumstances, but more so for anyone reading who may have a similar issue and be producing the same byproduct in lesser volumes, that would make such suggestions more feasible/applicable. For these people the repurposing of the wasted byproduct may infact offer a supplementary income source that utilises unused downtime anyway and can be used to supplement their woodworking tooling budget. And not as some kind of condescending, dickhead know-it-all enthusiast thinking he can tell a pro something they haven't heard of or considered before on multiple occasions. Thanks mate. 👍)
@@JNDCreations PS, is there a viable means of transforming the high airflow to high pressure without causing a surge environment at the impeller? Possibly by bleeding excess air flow while incorporating the correct edge radius for the profile of the reducer? (I have amateur enthusiast type experience with fluid dynamics from my experience in the turbocharger field but unsure how it translates to these types of air pumps with their massive tolerances and sub-optimal design for the interior surfaces of the impellers housing....) The impeller could be alleviated from some of the back-pressure characteristicw associated (which are outside it's intended envelope of function.) with increasing the resistance to the airflow by reducing the piping cross section. This could be done by utilising the excess air which is bled off, to create a low pressure zone at correct points within the reduced cross section which in turn 'pull' the high pressure into it, accelerating the airflow and reducing the parasitic effects at the reducer point. I know this is outside the scope of woodworking expertise but anyone listening/reading that is proficiently experienced with forced induction systems will know that some homework and scaled proof-of-concepts with a 3d printer would easily be able to identify a feasible and simple housing that has no internal parts in its functionality, with only a sprung valve fully/partially reducing the exhaust ports of the bled off air. And this device could be easily sold as a finished product or in plan form, as an additional component to be incorporated into a HVLP system. Giving the ability to use the same system for both applications. *And at a fraction of a shop vac.
Hey Jax, Great video. I am setting up a home workshop and I just bought the Carbatec DC-2300P 2 3/4 HP unit with twin 1micron filters and bags. Its a big unit, but after inhaling a bunch of dust on a recent project I felt the need to go a bit overboard on it. But a question. What do you think would be more effective, Do I run 4" into the surface of the table for my mitre saw and point the outlet of my saw at it, or step the 4" down to 2" for a direct fit to the outlet of my mitre saw? I am a real novice but have made some nice pieces so far and just looking to learn more.
Sounds like you've got an awesome set up with that beast Ben! When it comes to dust extraction I'm of the opinion that the bigger you keep your hoses the better, just allowing more air flow. Mitre saws are notoriously bad for dust collection, but the set up I've made works extremely well for me. You can check out my build here if you haven't seen it already: th-cam.com/video/0y4aoL4HL2k/w-d-xo.html By building a box around the saw and having the outlet at the bottom, it catches 95% of the dust. Im hoping to upgrade my mitre saw in the next 12 months which will require building a new station for it, but i intend on keeping a similar design for the dust. If you want any more info mate feel free to reach out on instagram!
@@JNDCreations thanks mate, I just watched your mitre saw station build and it helped a lot. Love the reclaimed wood. Admittedly, I may build the extraction port into the side of the dust shroud box as the bosch saw I have is almost up against the wall. - Cheers from NSW.
@@mpgcamo is that the Bosch glide? I’m hoping to get the same one! I’ve been thinking of using the same square port I’ve got but putting it under the saw. I just think if the port is on the side, over time you will get a large build up of dust around the base of the saw that never makes it to the extractor.
@@JNDCreations Yes mate that's the one. It is an awesome saw. I am sure that there will be some large particle dust that don't make it to the extractor, but I am sure that could be pushed into the pickup after a couple of sessions. but I just want to manage the dust enough where I don't die from it. But I am quickly finding out that short of wearing a facemask I am probably chasing a unicorn.
One thing to be aware of: at least on the current version the power switch is a relay, which means you can't control power on/off remotely. When you turn off power at the wall, the relay drops out and it won't power back on until you press the green button on the motor.
Way too easy to bypass that power switch. Then Won’t be able to use that switch any longer. But I have a remote that would require the switch to be permanently on anyway.
Urgh... Im wating for the new wall mounted unit coming out soon... but it will be only 1HP. I simply can't fit that thing in the shop sadly. Shame, it looks grouse.
I used the 1hp version for 2 years with a hobby jointer, thicknesser, and bandsaw and it worked nice (still going strong). I upgraded to the 2hp when I got a table saw and drum sander. Great pieces of gear. I vacuum the inside of my fabric bag with every empty, it's a prick of a job.
Hey legend! I'm looking to get one for my home workshop. Are you able to get a free decibel meter app on your phone and let us know how loud the machine is from say 1m away when running on its own? If not, is it really loud? Like can you have a normal conversation while it's running? Cheers!
Great question dude, I should’ve included that info in my video 🤦♂️ didn’t even think of it. You’re looking at about 86dB from approximately 1 meter away. I’ve got this one in the far corner of my shop. I can have a conversation easily enough on the opposite side of the shop while it’s running.
I’d try and knock them down to around $250 if it’s in good nick. Hose you’re looking at about $15 per meter I think from Carbatec. I paid around the $200 mark for mine second hand
@@JNDCreations thanks saw it photos online and mine is missing but doesn’t really matter $10 for new part but won’t bother works perfect sucks real hard!
Love this mate, hahah the audacity of that bitch to expect YOU to empty it. What is this world coming to?!?!? Mate I have the 2HP HAFCO model and the best thing I did was knock up a separator out of an olive barrel - no more bags!! It's on my Insta, ill have to get it on TH-cam at some point. Easy as mate!
Great video. Got the same rig with the cartridge.
When replacing the bag, I always struggled to get it in the right spot to do up the clamp. Until someone told me to use magnets. 5 small magnets make the job almost hassle free.
I tell you what Steve, I was told about that little trick and never bloody did anything about it. Just kept struggling with my clamp 😂 I’m pretty sure I’ve got some magnets laying around as well so I’ll get on that next change!
This is a great tip thank you.
Kia Ora & Good Afternoon from Unsworth Heights, North Shore, Auckland, New Zealand …Great Video Bro …
Kia Ora bro! Thanks for checking out the video 🤙
Hello my friend,
As a dust collector, I made 3 types myself. However, I realized that the best thing is to buy it from the ready-made store. Because I didn't do very well. It is one of the most important machines for the workshop. And it is definitely a great need. I watched a good video. Thank you for explaining the details. stay healthy and happy. Stay dust free :-) see you soon. big greetings.
Certainly is an important machine mate! Glad you enjoyed the video!
@@JNDCreations 💫🙏🕊💥
Time Stamp: 3:11 Good advice, listen to this very wise man!!! 🙂
😂🤣
Yeah man! Great review of a classic tool design. One thing I would add, with all extractors with the felt bags on them, be sure to have the door open and a mask on when next you fire up the machine. If you work all day with it running static builds in the bag and the little shit will actually collect on the outside of the bag. You turn it off for the night, it settles down, the static dissipates, and when next you turn it on the bag does that big thwump thing that they do and through the tiny bits everywhere. And it’s the tiny bits that’ll kill you. That’s the main reason I upgraded to a cartridge years ago. That lung pump is brutal.
Good point mate! I’ve since switched to a cartridge filter myself! It’s much better!
@@JNDCreations yeah man.
Helpful reveiw, thank you, love watching aussie videos!
Is it important to use a grounding kit?
Also do you recommend the Hi Flex PVC hose? I would be mainly connecting the dust extractor to my Carbetec Jointer/thicknesser and tablesaw.
@@stephduncan9194 to be honest I haven’t done enough research into grounding kits to make comment on whether they are important. I haven’t had any issues with my setup as is, touch wood.
Yeah I’ve always used the flex hose. It does great, unless you accidentally step on it, then you get holes 😂 but it’s really handy when you’ve got portable machines or are unable to hook up permanent lines
@@JNDCreations fair enough, thank you, note to self, don't stand on hose haha
@@stephduncan9194 unfortunately for me it seems to happen way more often than you’d expect 😂 I really need to mound it all to the walls
Fantastic video. Setting up my workshop and your videos are brilliant.
Thank you Justin I appreciate that mate! Glad you’re enjoying the content!
G'day mate, great vid. I have the same set up. Im looking at a separator bin for mine. Cuz i hate bag changes too.
Cheers mate! Yeah getting a separate bin would be a great solution!
How long is the longest hose I could connect and it still draw well?
Not sure on that one mate. I’ve got 5m of hose on mine with no drama though
@@JNDCreations do you reckon it could suck small pieces of wool through it?. Like cotton wool balls.
Yeah easily, why’s that?
@@JNDCreations blow wool into roof cavity for insulation
@@scottmccormick8964 yeah I’d say so. The full specs should be on the Carbatec website, but I reckon it could work
Great video mate, thanks!
No problem Adam, thanks for checking it out mate!
Great video mate, yet again!! I have the sameone, but green? Highly recommend an older version of the Carbatec dust collector.... built to last!
Really, a green Carbatec one?
Yeah they are absolute tanks!
@@JNDCreations actually just checked nah it's a Rexon one.... old Carbatec 15inch thicknesser
Great review video, thank you 😊
@@driftslipandslide no worries mate 😁
I'm struggling to find any info on how to connect the 1200 to my other machines, all of which, except the thicknesser, have smaller than 4 inch dust outlets
Reducers mate. If you head into your local Carbatec they will have a range of different dust collection accessories. It can be a bit like a puzzle, but they will have a solution!
I'm with you, mate, bag changes are the pits, I'm thinking about a cyclone attachment hook up.🤔
That's a grouse deal with the two pipes at the bottom.👌🏽
Cheers for the rundown. 👍🏽
Carbatec actually sell a big cyclone with a drum bin that hooks up to this. Footprint is the issue for me at the moment. Could be a worthy investment though!
@@JNDCreations
Yeah, footprint is a big issue when you don't have any to spare.
I've seen some cleverly wall mounted units with the cyclone sitting underneath.👍🏽
If im just using a scroll saw, what dusk collection system would you recommend
For just a scroll saw mate I’d probably recommend a shop vac that fits your budget. I’ve got a Festool one which is great, turns on when the tool does etc, but you can get them super cheap and basic as well!
Check out stumpy nubs he adds a bucket with bag it’s a great idea 👍🏻
I’ll have to suss it out mate cheers!
ever thought of creating an all metal cylinder container or a wooden box to replace the plastic bag? obviously you'll have to use some rubber seals to seal the gaps but could be better than the bloody plastic bag?! If you decide on doing this make a video on it id love to see what you do !
There’s similar designs out there mate. Honestly I haven’t given it much thought but it’s certainly worth a ponder!
Well, if it's that bad, make a reusable head you connect the bag to then connect the head to the unit. You can incorporate any means of shutting the heads opening prior to disconnecting it as you choose. Then you take the bag to wherever you dispose of the sawdust and deal with it there in whatever fashion you usually do.
May I recommend viewing the material as a raw product for another manufactured product, chemical treatment of wood permitting.... U could add an epoxy/adhesive and vacuum form it into whatever shaper you want and paint/seal it with whatever suits the use/nature that the shapes design is intended for...
Or you could possibly add a lightly combustible material and binding agent and press it into small-large briquettes for home/outdoor fire starting.
You could vacuum form it into flat sheets for use as sacrificial surfaces....
Anything.
the possibilities are endless! I like your thinking!
@@JNDCreations
Thankyou for your polite response. I was half wondering if it would be received on the manner I intended.
(As a hopefully helpful and thought provoking comment, not only for yourself and/or your own circumstances, but more so for anyone reading who may have a similar issue and be producing the same byproduct in lesser volumes, that would make such suggestions more feasible/applicable. For these people the repurposing of the wasted byproduct may infact offer a supplementary income source that utilises unused downtime anyway and can be used to supplement their woodworking tooling budget. And not as some kind of condescending, dickhead know-it-all enthusiast thinking he can tell a pro something they haven't heard of or considered before on multiple occasions. Thanks mate. 👍)
@@JNDCreations
PS, is there a viable means of transforming the high airflow to high pressure without causing a surge environment at the impeller? Possibly by bleeding excess air flow while incorporating the correct edge radius for the profile of the reducer?
(I have amateur enthusiast type experience with fluid dynamics from my experience in the turbocharger field but unsure how it translates to these types of air pumps with their massive tolerances and sub-optimal design for the interior surfaces of the impellers housing....)
The impeller could be alleviated from some of the back-pressure characteristicw associated (which are outside it's intended envelope of function.) with increasing the resistance to the airflow by reducing the piping cross section. This could be done by utilising the excess air which is bled off, to create a low pressure zone at correct points within the reduced cross section which in turn 'pull' the high pressure into it, accelerating the airflow and reducing the parasitic effects at the reducer point. I know this is outside the scope of woodworking expertise but anyone listening/reading that is proficiently experienced with forced induction systems will know that some homework and scaled proof-of-concepts with a 3d printer would easily be able to identify a feasible and simple housing that has no internal parts in its functionality, with only a sprung valve fully/partially reducing the exhaust ports of the bled off air. And this device could be easily sold as a finished product or in plan form, as an additional component to be incorporated into a HVLP system. Giving the ability to use the same system for both applications. *And at a fraction of a shop vac.
@@muntee33 yep, that is well outside my scope of knowledge 😂
Hey Jax, Great video. I am setting up a home workshop and I just bought the Carbatec DC-2300P 2 3/4 HP unit with twin 1micron filters and bags. Its a big unit, but after inhaling a bunch of dust on a recent project I felt the need to go a bit overboard on it. But a question. What do you think would be more effective, Do I run 4" into the surface of the table for my mitre saw and point the outlet of my saw at it, or step the 4" down to 2" for a direct fit to the outlet of my mitre saw? I am a real novice but have made some nice pieces so far and just looking to learn more.
Sounds like you've got an awesome set up with that beast Ben! When it comes to dust extraction I'm of the opinion that the bigger you keep your hoses the better, just allowing more air flow. Mitre saws are notoriously bad for dust collection, but the set up I've made works extremely well for me. You can check out my build here if you haven't seen it already: th-cam.com/video/0y4aoL4HL2k/w-d-xo.html
By building a box around the saw and having the outlet at the bottom, it catches 95% of the dust. Im hoping to upgrade my mitre saw in the next 12 months which will require building a new station for it, but i intend on keeping a similar design for the dust. If you want any more info mate feel free to reach out on instagram!
@@JNDCreations thanks mate, I just watched your mitre saw station build and it helped a lot. Love the reclaimed wood. Admittedly, I may build the extraction port into the side of the dust shroud box as the bosch saw I have is almost up against the wall. - Cheers from NSW.
@@mpgcamo is that the Bosch glide? I’m hoping to get the same one! I’ve been thinking of using the same square port I’ve got but putting it under the saw. I just think if the port is on the side, over time you will get a large build up of dust around the base of the saw that never makes it to the extractor.
@@JNDCreations Yes mate that's the one. It is an awesome saw. I am sure that there will be some large particle dust that don't make it to the extractor, but I am sure that could be pushed into the pickup after a couple of sessions. but I just want to manage the dust enough where I don't die from it. But I am quickly finding out that short of wearing a facemask I am probably chasing a unicorn.
One thing to be aware of: at least on the current version the power switch is a relay, which means you can't control power on/off remotely. When you turn off power at the wall, the relay drops out and it won't power back on until you press the green button on the motor.
This is true! I’ve seen a few other guys create work around for their machines, but I just hit the green button each time!
Way too easy to bypass that power switch. Then Won’t be able to use that switch any longer. But I have a remote that would require the switch to be permanently on anyway.
Urgh... Im wating for the new wall mounted unit coming out soon... but it will be only 1HP. I simply can't fit that thing in the shop sadly. Shame, it looks grouse.
Modify it man. Didn’t Dainer just do a wall mounted mod on his? The 1hp was seriously only good for selling to get some cash towards a 2hp 😂😂
I’ve got a 2HP wall mounted dust extractor. It’s orange though…
I used the 1hp version for 2 years with a hobby jointer, thicknesser, and bandsaw and it worked nice (still going strong). I upgraded to the 2hp when I got a table saw and drum sander. Great pieces of gear. I vacuum the inside of my fabric bag with every empty, it's a prick of a job.
You did well to manage with that mate! I replaced my 1hp asap hahaha.
Hey legend! I'm looking to get one for my home workshop. Are you able to get a free decibel meter app on your phone and let us know how loud the machine is from say 1m away when running on its own? If not, is it really loud? Like can you have a normal conversation while it's running? Cheers!
Great question dude, I should’ve included that info in my video 🤦♂️ didn’t even think of it. You’re looking at about 86dB from approximately 1 meter away. I’ve got this one in the far corner of my shop. I can have a conversation easily enough on the opposite side of the shop while it’s running.
Thanks for vid, how much did you pay? About to buy one second hand for $270 is that a good deal? No hoses included. CHeers for vid
I’d try and knock them down to around $250 if it’s in good nick. Hose you’re looking at about $15 per meter I think from Carbatec. I paid around the $200 mark for mine second hand
Sweet thanks for it for $200 with 3m hose and 2 bags!!
@@JNDCreations how does your bag at the top stay up? Mine sits on top of extractor flat
@@ollief9375 awesome deal mate! There is a support bar that attached to the side of the extractor that hooks through the loop on top of the bag
@@JNDCreations thanks saw it photos online and mine is missing but doesn’t really matter $10 for new part but won’t bother works perfect sucks real hard!
How tall is it? What's the floor space required? Does it prefer scotch or vodka?
Oh no… have you not learnt the real way to measure yet Ron. 😂😂
It prefers vodka 🤷🏻♂️
Love this mate, hahah the audacity of that bitch to expect YOU to empty it. What is this world coming to?!?!? Mate I have the 2HP HAFCO model and the best thing I did was knock up a separator out of an olive barrel - no more bags!! It's on my Insta, ill have to get it on TH-cam at some point. Easy as mate!
Thanks man I’ll check it out! Not sure why but I’ve only just seen this comment now!
Little mod 44 gallon drum
@@nickking8317 make one from a 44 gallon drum?
@@JNDCreations nah put the drum where the bag is and adapt it so you.dont have to change bags all the time
@@nickking8317 that’s a good idea mate!
You should sell these things. What enthusiasm, it's infectious
Maybe one day mate 😂
This review sucks .Dust.
😂😂😂