Nice fix Mick! You inspired me to fix a high amps 12V battery charger for my father this week. Was a pain to diagnose as the output was short circuited, and every component going between plus and minus had to be taken off for measurement. Started with witness marks, output capacitors had brown goo coming from them, turned out to be factory flux. Tested with mains and found the schottky diode package was getting really hot, removed and tested fine. With those removed the short was isolated to the output diodes or a 330k ohm resistor. Resistor was of course fine, but both diodes were fried. Luckily found some spares and soldered everything back together, and it works! Biggest hurdle was the big powerplanes with leadfree solder. Ended up needing dual soldering irons just to get things off 😂 Very satisfying repair, so I get why you do this👍 Keep on keeping on!
Thanks for this. Had one of these brought in to Tenby UK Repair Cafe, apparently dead. After seeing this, we went straight to check D12/D13 in the PSU. Simple diode-tester (in-circuit, unit powered off) gave approx 0V forward and reverse on D12, but more sensible numbers on D13. Replaced D12 with 5A 100V Schottky. Unit now fine.
Just found your channel and I’m fascinated, the amount of money I have lost over the years on things that probably only needed a simple fix is criminal. I am going to have to watch more videos as I am hooked. 👍
Just a tip, on hard to read part numbers you can usually use a tiny bit of thermal compound on the component and wipe off the excess to make the engraving more visible as the compound fills the engraved numbers/letters. Obviously this doesn't work with forcibly sanded part numbers but can really help in a pinch with ones that are technically still visible but hard to see. Another great fix!
Sometimes an easy fix is satisfying, a duff diode or bad caps can give a real sense of achievement, more complex fixes are great too until you end up in the rabbit hole..
Excellent work, as always. The way you effortlessly take components off the board to check them always amazes me. When I try doing that the SMB components just vanish into thin air, never to be seen again, the slippery little buggers... 🤣🤣
Expedient troubleshooting and repair, excellent. Still surprised at how adept you are at finding faults so quickly. I thought a cap at first then maybe a diode, you went right to the diode...impressive. Thanks for the video and great fix... See ya soon.
Yes, the Starlink router. I had been meaning to build one for quite some time but I didn't have any incandescent light bulbs. Managed to find some at a car boot sale👍
A thing i do to help read components is shine a torch across them at different angles while looking though the scope. Usually find an angle that shows it up clearly.
Very good, another saved from landfill (hopefully). Probably an illusion, the main smoothing cap looked very small and a floating earth wire. Bypass switch, perhaps, for version 2 of your dim bulb. I wonder at what point marketing decided that Gliderol sounded better than Roll-a-Glide.
Their most recent door opener is in fact the Gliderol Roll-a-Glide. I'm wondering if the issue wasn't marketing but legal; ie. if there was already a company called Roll-a-Glide and Gliderol had to wait until that company changed its name, was bought out, or folded before they could assume the trademark.
Cheers, yes I had thought of a bypass switch, but I'd perhaps forget it was bypassed and end up blowing something up 😂😂Yes I noticed that on the silkscreen of the board too 👍
You should only use the current limiter for a quick check whether you have a short or not. Ideally, you see a short flash of the bulb while the capacitors are charging. Expect weird behaviour (flickering) if there is PFC. Permanent light means "short". You should not test normal device operation with the bulb in series, as the voltage reaching the device is substantially lower than what is expected and this might cause problems.
When pulling caps to test them, I'd pull the one closes to the rectifier - it's the one that gets worked the hardest and most likely the first to fail.
Nice fix Mick as always you did a fantastic job of fault finding, with reference to your series light bulb make sure it’s 100w or more as I have still had things burn out as i had a 60w, normally on a power supply you get a brief flash and when it’s pulsing you know you’re ok 😊
Looks like you fixed it. I have to say I was surprised when you removed one of the 220 mfd capacitors and checked it and it was good, that you didn't read the others on that line while you had it out. But really doesn't matter since you did find the culprit part...
When you first measured 0.0 ohms on the Schottky diode, I saw the silkscreen with "L2" (Inductor #2). Once you removed the diode, the silkscreen showed it was a diode. The L2 must've been for an adjacent component. 😉
When you remove the diode or any component to check, you can solder one end to the pad you just removed it from so it does not move when trying to check it out of circuit.
Great work , good repair 👍👍👍👍👍 Why didn't Steven send the garage to you ?. Where is the garage?.😭😭 Is eventuelly the garage faulty ??🤔🤔 Is this only a great box with two lights they noisy clicks do ??🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣 Nice gestern from Steven to send you treads👌👌👌
Hi Mike , I was wondering if you could have a look at a Micro gridtied inverter that’s been running flawlessly for the last four years , but now seems to stop working . After trawling utube for the last year I came across your channel and promptly devoured all your videos (over the last month)Now m am looking at electronics in a whole new way .No longer seems like Black Magic ,,,, but still not got the confidence to actually undertake my own repairs YET ! . As a kid I was always interested in how things work and learnt a lot by watching others ,mainly mechanical but always shied away from electronics I would love to see you diagnose n repair the inverter as I have three others (still in service ) , As the saying goes Teach a man to Fish !, Cheers Phil Keep up the great videos Thanks
Hey! I’ve got a broken windshield wiper stalk if you’re interested in taking a look at it. The intermittent wiper function is broken on it. I’ve already replaced the stalk with a new one and it is working again. Let me know and I can mail it over to you for analysis. Cheers! Montana
Thanks Andymouse 👍No it's the tip I use most often. I find it has more thermal mass than the pointy tips. It came with 3 tips when I got it, the knife one, a straight point and an angled point.
Would have changed the first 220uF capacitor after the diode, those will fail before the others, as they have a 2 stage LC filter. The first capacitor is likely going high ESR already, and will fail in a few more months, as it dries out. Also with the TOPswitch change the primary side small capacitor, as that is the power for the chip, and when that goes low value or high ESR it pops the chip.
lol We used to Test, Review, some MREs at work, have to admit most not bad, or i was really hungry. Tested 'Shakes' when on TDA in Kansas, only 1\4 was enough, if not moving about, you'd nod off. lol Now i know what's meant by Carb overload. [not use to sweet stuff]
@@kareno8634 I often watch Steve1989MRE and wonder how he eats some of the stuff in those MREs. He must be severely constipated all the time...🤣🤣 I often wonder if his mother, or partner is just keeping him locked in that room and sliding MREs under the door to him. Let's get this out onto a tray...NICE...🤣🤣🤣 www.youtube.com/@Steve1989MRE
@@kareno8634 I often watch Steve1989MREInfo and wondered how he can eat some of the stuff in those MREs. Apologies for the grossness but he must be seriously backed up after eating that stuff. I imagine he's trapped in that room and his captor just slides MREs under the door to him...🤣🤣
I enjoyed watching your vid my friend. I also have a faulty board. The controller will lower the door just fine, but when i press the button for it to go up, it goes up maybe 6 inches or so and then stops. I have checked for obstructions etc and there is no problem. I can also wind it up and down manually. I am no great shakes at electronics, but to my feeble uneducated brain i suspect one of the relays is bad. Does that makes sense ? I saw the relays on amazon for £78 ! Bought two from ebay for about £14 instead. Can i send it to you ? Or is that being a bit cheeky 😂
It does indeed sound like one of the relays could be at fault. If the contacts are burnt inside of them it might give symptoms similar to what you describe. I would expect it to sometimes not do anything a all too. A dry joint (bad solder connection) on one of the relays would also do similar. They aren't too hard to chance if you have the right stuff. I would suggest some flux, solder wick and a decent soldering iron.
@@BuyitFixit thanks for that. The joints to the relays did look solid and not dry. Looking around the board all does seem ok joint wise. I’ll fit a new relay I think when they arrive. Both seem to click ok so I could be wrong. Many thanks once again
Hi slightly digressing from the topic but I currently have a bell fruit slot machine with a problem I've tried to look at it and gone round in more circles than the beater on your bread machine in a previous video Would you in the interest of great you tube content be able to have a look at the components power supply and main board and hopefully come up with solution for me
It might be hard for me to test it without the rest of the machine.. postage might be an issue 😂😂Drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com and I'll try to help 👍
It's called a dim bulb tester. An old style filament lamp is just placed in series with the device, so if the device has a short on it, it just makes the bulb light up instead of the device exploding everywhere 🙂
Yes, pretty much all stuff over here and Europe runs that, apart from building site tools which then use a 110V centre tapped transformer so the maximum shock you get from a live wire is 55V.
😂😂Yes my eyesight has really gone down hill the last couple of years. I never had to wear glasses, and now I can't see anything closer than arms length clearly without them.
![Faulty Roberts R900 Radio [Repair Cafe] | Can I Fix It?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D3DBieGSNq8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks again really appreciate it. Great work
Cheers Steve, and thanks again for the goodies! I'll get it boxed up for you 🙂👍
Lovely gesture Steve
That's a considerate and generous viewer, to include spare parts as well as tasty treats!!
Absolutely! I'd prefer the treats to the parts though 😂😂😂
Nice fix Mick! You inspired me to fix a high amps 12V battery charger for my father this week. Was a pain to diagnose as the output was short circuited, and every component going between plus and minus had to be taken off for measurement. Started with witness marks, output capacitors had brown goo coming from them, turned out to be factory flux. Tested with mains and found the schottky diode package was getting really hot, removed and tested fine. With those removed the short was isolated to the output diodes or a 330k ohm resistor. Resistor was of course fine, but both diodes were fried. Luckily found some spares and soldered everything back together, and it works! Biggest hurdle was the big powerplanes with leadfree solder. Ended up needing dual soldering irons just to get things off 😂 Very satisfying repair, so I get why you do this👍 Keep on keeping on!
Nice work.
Thanks 👍and well done on fixing your battery charger 👏👏👏
Nice job fixing that. As a bonus you got some snacks too. It's been almost forty years since I got snacks for fixing stuff for grateful people.
Thanks 👍Yes I think it's the first time someone has sent me snacks! It was a very welcome bonus!
Thanks for this. Had one of these brought in to Tenby UK Repair Cafe, apparently dead. After seeing this, we went straight to check D12/D13 in the PSU. Simple diode-tester (in-circuit, unit powered off) gave approx 0V forward and reverse on D12, but more sensible numbers on D13. Replaced D12 with 5A 100V Schottky. Unit now fine.
Excellent 👍Really glad it was helpful. I also volunteer at or local repair cafe in Alston 👍
Just found your channel and I’m fascinated, the amount of money I have lost over the years on things that probably only needed a simple fix is criminal. I am going to have to watch more videos as I am hooked. 👍
Cheers Keith, I've got one such repair coming out on Saturday which cost around 50p for a part 😂😂👍
Great fault finding Mick!
@@Mymatevince Cheers Vince 👍
Just a tip, on hard to read part numbers you can usually use a tiny bit of thermal compound on the component and wipe off the excess to make the engraving more visible as the compound fills the engraved numbers/letters. Obviously this doesn't work with forcibly sanded part numbers but can really help in a pinch with ones that are technically still visible but hard to see.
Another great fix!
Thanks 👍and cheers for the tip 🙂
Another successful repair save from going to the Wastelands 🎉 keep those videos coming appreciate your work
Thank you 👍
Sometimes an easy fix is satisfying, a duff diode or bad caps can give a real sense of achievement, more complex fixes are great too until you end up in the rabbit hole..
Cheers Roy 👍
Excellent work, as always.
The way you effortlessly take components off the board to check them always amazes me. When I try doing that the SMB components just vanish into thin air, never to be seen again, the slippery little buggers... 🤣🤣
Cheers mate 👍Yes I've had a couple ping off too!
@@BuyitFixit That is why tech keep one end solder to the board my friend.
A shot Schottky diode 🤣, great fix thanks Mick 😁
Oh thanks a bunch, like spoiler alert much??? 🤣🤣🤣
@@generaldisarray watch the video first lol
@@mikecass8306 I did, the schottky diode did it... 🤣🤣
😂😂😂Thanks Mike 👍
Expedient troubleshooting and repair, excellent. Still surprised at how adept you are at finding faults so quickly. I thought a cap at first then maybe a diode, you went right to the diode...impressive. Thanks for the video and great fix... See ya soon.
Cheers 👍Sometimes it can take me a while and sometimes I get lucky. I guess part of it is knowing the rough area of where the suspected fault lies.
finally seeing a series protection outlet, you have been blowing components 😁
Yes, the Starlink router. I had been meaning to build one for quite some time but I didn't have any incandescent light bulbs. Managed to find some at a car boot sale👍
A thing i do to help read components is shine a torch across them at different angles while looking though the scope. Usually find an angle that shows it up clearly.
Good idea 👍
Another good one, always waiting for your videos, thanks for sharing 👍.
Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹
Thank you 👍and greetings from the UK 🙂
Interesting Fix Mick. Thanks for posting
Cheers Neil 👍
Hello from Australia again Mick🙃
Nice work as per usual and yes I thoroughly enjoyed your process of diagnosis. Great Job.
Cheers mate 🙃
I always have a great day when I see one of your videos Mick! The subscriber pays well, eh? Good job.
Thanks 👍Yes tasty treats FTW 🙂
Hands of sorcery and a mind of wisdom. Well done sir!
😂😂Thanks 👍
Now that's great diagnostics!
Thanks 👍🙂
Heya, nice repair vlog again loved it
Thanks 👍
I always enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the great work. 👍👍
Cheers mate 👍
Very good, another saved from landfill (hopefully). Probably an illusion, the main smoothing cap looked very small and a floating earth wire. Bypass switch, perhaps, for version 2 of your dim bulb. I wonder at what point marketing decided that Gliderol sounded better than Roll-a-Glide.
Their most recent door opener is in fact the Gliderol Roll-a-Glide. I'm wondering if the issue wasn't marketing but legal; ie. if there was already a company called Roll-a-Glide and Gliderol had to wait until that company changed its name, was bought out, or folded before they could assume the trademark.
Cheers, yes I had thought of a bypass switch, but I'd perhaps forget it was bypassed and end up blowing something up 😂😂Yes I noticed that on the silkscreen of the board too 👍
You should only use the current limiter for a quick check whether you have a short or not. Ideally, you see a short flash of the bulb while the capacitors are charging. Expect weird behaviour (flickering) if there is PFC. Permanent light means "short". You should not test normal device operation with the bulb in series, as the voltage reaching the device is substantially lower than what is expected and this might cause problems.
Thanks for that 👍
Fantastic repair!!
Cheers 👍🙂
The tatty end on your test probe is getting to me!
😂
Yes, I did chop it slightly half way through the video as it was getting to me too! I'll have to sort it before the next video 🙂
When pulling caps to test them, I'd pull the one closes to the rectifier - it's the one that gets worked the hardest and most likely the first to fail.
Thanks for that. I've still got it on the bench so I might check those before returning it 👍
Really enjoying your vids
Thanks mate 👍😊
Nice fix Mick as always you did a fantastic job of fault finding, with reference to your series light bulb make sure it’s 100w or more as I have still had things burn out as i had a 60w, normally on a power supply you get a brief flash and when it’s pulsing you know you’re ok 😊
Cheers Gary 👍
Nice troubleshooting mate. Well done. Cheers!
Cheers mate 👍
Great fix 👍
Thanks 👍
Looks like you fixed it. I have to say I was surprised when you removed one of the 220 mfd capacitors and checked it and it was good, that you didn't read the others on that line while you had it out. But really doesn't matter since you did find the culprit part...
Since the whole parallel group measured about 1300 uf, he surmised the others were ok.
Nice fix. You could measure from the motor output relay connectors to see if its putting anything out when using remote.
Cheers 👍
You're not just trying, you are knowing what you do! I really would like to know more about your background. Is this all self taught?
See the "About" page on the channel. I wrote a brief history :)
When you first measured 0.0 ohms on the Schottky diode, I saw the silkscreen with
"L2" (Inductor #2). Once you removed the diode, the silkscreen showed it was a diode.
The L2 must've been for an adjacent component. 😉
Yes I noticed that too. It was a little confusing!
The voltage up and down was known as Tripping as the safety circuit shut the PSU down then reset over and over.
Yes 👍I've had the same when the bootstrap cap fails and the chip doesn't get enough power to startup properly too.
Thanks. Very enjoyable. 😊
Cheers 👍
Enjoying the vids so far mate
Cheers 👍
Single blue band = zener diode
Single black band = general purpose diode
Single green band = Schottky diode
Single yellow band = switching diode
Hi! Nice, had no idea. *Thanks*
Thanks for that, everyday is a schoolday! Something I didn't know either 👍
When you remove the diode or any component to check, you can solder one end to the pad you just removed it from so it does not move when trying to check it out of circuit.
Thanks for the tip. I actually did that with the two resistors 🙂
Nice fix, Mick. Thanks for sharing.
Cheers Brian 👍
Surface mount components are a backward step in terms of reliability it seems. I've seen quite a few .1 mfd bypass caps going short. Nice video.
Thanks 👍Yes I've had that a few times. Once in a Hikvision camera, and on the SSD I repaired on the channel (if you didn't see that one)
Nice work.
Thanks!
You should consider getting a Peak ESR70 - brilliant bit of kit for the price.
Thanks I'll have a look into that 👍
Great work , good repair 👍👍👍👍👍
Why didn't Steven send the garage to you ?. Where is the garage?.😭😭
Is eventuelly the garage faulty ??🤔🤔
Is this only a great box with two lights they noisy clicks do ??🤔🤣🤣🤣🤣
Nice gestern from Steven to send you treads👌👌👌
Thanks 👍Hopefully the garage isn't faulty, as I'm no bricklayer 😂😂😂😂
Nice fix, but to me a lot of the soldering looks very suspect (but unleaded soldre always looks crap!)
Thanks 👍Yes agree. Sometimes the microscope lighting shows it worse than it actually is too.
Great stuff as usual. Many thanks.
Cheers 👍
He should have sent you the garage door so you could test it. 😄
😂😂😂I'd need a bigger bench!
Fixing the garage door opener surely gave your day a lift, Mick.
😂😂😂😂😂👍
Epic fix😊
Cheers 👍
Learn alot from you.
Thanks 👍🙂
Lovely work
Thanks Paul 👍
You should still test all the caps, especially the first ones after the output diode. The first ones are the most stressed.
Even though the one you tested was ok, the others could be starting to go bad.
Cheers Simon I've still got it on the bench so I'll have a quick look before I return it 👍
Hi Mike , I was wondering if you could have a look at a Micro gridtied inverter that’s been running flawlessly for the last four years , but now seems to stop working . After trawling utube for the last year I came across your channel and promptly devoured all your videos (over the last month)Now m am looking at electronics in a whole new way .No longer seems like Black Magic ,,,, but still not got the confidence to actually undertake my own repairs YET ! .
As a kid I was always interested in how things work and learnt a lot by watching others ,mainly mechanical but always shied away from electronics
I would love to see you diagnose n repair the inverter as I have three others (still in service ) , As the saying goes Teach a man to Fish !,
Cheers Phil Keep up the great videos Thanks
Thanks Phil👍 drop me an email (name of the channel) at out look dot com
Hi sir, you have an american plug but you have 230V on the main?? thanks for all your work.
It's a UK plug, not American 🙂
Hey! I’ve got a broken windshield wiper stalk if you’re interested in taking a look at it. The intermittent wiper function is broken on it. I’ve already replaced the stalk with a new one and it is working again. Let me know and I can mail it over to you for analysis.
Cheers!
Montana
Thanks for the offer Montana, I would think it would be something like a bad contact in the stalk. I don't think there's much in them tbh.
Awesome ! Have you always used that Knife tip on your iron please ? If it's new how do you find it ?......cheers.
Thanks Andymouse 👍No it's the tip I use most often. I find it has more thermal mass than the pointy tips. It came with 3 tips when I got it, the knife one, a straight point and an angled point.
@@BuyitFixit :)
wow nice fix :D
Thanks 👍
I just replaced that LNK in a washing machine board, what's killing it it's that blown burden resistor in that PCB
Nice 👍yes I've seen these in a few products now. The Dyson fan and a dehumidifier that someone brought into our local repair cafe.
Would have changed the first 220uF capacitor after the diode, those will fail before the others, as they have a 2 stage LC filter. The first capacitor is likely going high ESR already, and will fail in a few more months, as it dries out. Also with the TOPswitch change the primary side small capacitor, as that is the power for the chip, and when that goes low value or high ESR it pops the chip.
I've still got it on my bench, I think I'll check those and perhaps the mains smoothers before returning it 👍
@@BuyitFixit Big mains ones not really going to fail, the small decoupling cap for the chip itself is most likely to fail.
Where can you get a component tester like that?
See video description 👍
I'm guessing Steven's Scottish given the included goodies are basically the contents of a Scottish Army MRE...🤣🤣🤣
lol We used to Test, Review, some MREs at work, have to admit most not bad, or i was really hungry. Tested 'Shakes' when on TDA in Kansas, only 1\4 was enough, if not moving about, you'd nod off. lol Now i know what's meant by Carb overload. [not use to sweet stuff]
@@kareno8634 I often watch Steve1989MRE and wonder how he eats some of the stuff in those MREs. He must be severely constipated all the time...🤣🤣
I often wonder if his mother, or partner is just keeping him locked in that room and sliding MREs under the door to him.
Let's get this out onto a tray...NICE...🤣🤣🤣
www.youtube.com/@Steve1989MRE
@@kareno8634 I often watch Steve1989MREInfo and wondered how he can eat some of the stuff in those MREs. Apologies for the grossness but he must be seriously backed up after eating that stuff.
I imagine he's trapped in that room and his captor just slides MREs under the door to him...🤣🤣
I wonder whether the radioactive heater was included and whether the same tastes apply, that far south.
Guilty😂😂🤷♂️
You couldn't say what you use to wash off the flux after soldering.
Thank you and best regards.
Just IPA, isopropyl alcohol 👍
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the answer. Have a good day. And good content.
Very good
Cheers 👍
I enjoyed watching your vid my friend. I also have a faulty board. The controller will lower the door just fine, but when i press the button for it to go up, it goes up maybe 6 inches or so and then stops. I have checked for obstructions etc and there is no problem. I can also wind it up and down manually. I am no great shakes at electronics, but to my feeble uneducated brain i suspect one of the relays is bad. Does that makes sense ? I saw the relays on amazon for £78 ! Bought two from ebay for about £14 instead. Can i send it to you ? Or is that being a bit cheeky 😂
It does indeed sound like one of the relays could be at fault. If the contacts are burnt inside of them it might give symptoms similar to what you describe. I would expect it to sometimes not do anything a all too. A dry joint (bad solder connection) on one of the relays would also do similar. They aren't too hard to chance if you have the right stuff. I would suggest some flux, solder wick and a decent soldering iron.
@@BuyitFixit thanks for that. The joints to the relays did look solid and not dry. Looking around the board all does seem ok joint wise. I’ll fit a new relay I think when they arrive. Both seem to click ok so I could be wrong. Many thanks once again
hi my lab power supply got a emf shock and the display reads 0v 0a 0w and nothing is coming out any advice thanks
I'm not sure on that, hard do say without looking at it.
@@BuyitFixitcan i send it to you to have a look at it
Drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com
Hi slightly digressing from the topic but I currently have a bell fruit slot machine with a problem I've tried to look at it and gone round in more circles than the beater on your bread machine in a previous video
Would you in the interest of great you tube content be able to have a look at the components power supply and main board and hopefully come up with solution for me
It might be hard for me to test it without the rest of the machine.. postage might be an issue 😂😂Drop me an email at the channels name at out look dot com and I'll try to help 👍
Off-line means "off the mains voltage line", I had to Google that
Cheers Nick 👍at least it's not internet connected 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit Yep, no cloud subscription for that garage door opener
4:25 the famous UK HIGHish mains voltage
Indeed 😂😂👍
Can you explain light bulb in a video a bit more?
It's called a dim bulb tester. An old style filament lamp is just placed in series with the device, so if the device has a short on it, it just makes the bulb light up instead of the device exploding everywhere 🙂
@@BuyitFixit interesting and completely logical. Great idey. Only problem will be finding old school filament bulb 😁. Thank you
I fix a charger today hehe bad diode also 🎉
Excellent! Well done 👍
start dropping hints as to your favourite treats ;-)
😂😂😂😂👍
A lot of circuitry in there just to receive inputs from a remote and flick a relay on and off lol.
Yes, I think a fair bit of it is power supply.
At some point I may have to get a microscope. So far I have stayed with larger components, but there will be that day...
Yes unfortunately most things now seem to be surface mount, and getting increasingly smaller!
Its weird seeing 220 volts on a circuit board , but then again I’m in the USA , lol
Yes, pretty much all stuff over here and Europe runs that, apart from building site tools which then use a 110V centre tapped transformer so the maximum shock you get from a live wire is 55V.
Nice fix, better to throw out a diode than a whole PCB.
Cheers 👍Yes and a lot less expensive (although I think Steve said he had already bought a replacement).
a lot of bad looking solder joints
Yes, although the lighting on the microscope casts shadows that make them look worse than they actually are at times.
Dirty screen on your component tester bothers me immensely.
Yes, I should have sorted that (I think some of it may be scratches too)
as needs glasses now thats my knew saying lol
😂😂Yes my eyesight has really gone down hill the last couple of years. I never had to wear glasses, and now I can't see anything closer than arms length clearly without them.
Faulty. Gliderol. Garage. Door. Opener. Controller can. l. Fix. It
Has Boeing called you yet to ask you how to fix Starliner?
I've got a call scheduled with them next week 😂😂😂😂
You need to get a better camera.
Was there an issue with the video quality?