@@Xynudu cheers, happy to be settling with it then. Could you please tell me which configuration represents high/low power settings? My unit had been painted
The work lead is at bottom left. The electrode leads are far right 45 volts (general welding) at top, and 70 volts (specialty welding) at bottom. For most welding use the 45 volt outlet. Cheers Rob
Hey Rob, sorry to bother you again. I just acquired another one of these however this one needs a rebuild (for aesthetics mostly) but I cannot remove the knob on the power set locking handle so I can slide the cover up and off the unit. My first was actually a screw adjust this one is a slide and lock. Does the entire lock shaft back out unthreading? Do you remove the knob then push the shaft inside? There is slight movement on the knob either way attempting to remove the clamp lock knob but it locks up both ways at about a degree. The clamp does function but locks at the back end of thread, do I keep going and back it all out?
Hi, from memory I think the locking shaft unscrews and can be removed completely. The whole design was pretty simple and I think it just tightens a split collar the variable choke slide rod passes through. It's been a long time since I had that welder apart. Quite probably the end of the thread may be exposed and dirty and thus binding when you try to remove it. Good luck. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu thanks very much! So possibly unscrew or back out the lock shaft till it "bottoms out" then use say vice grips on the shaft to unscrew the knob and shaft out together as one? I considered a monkey wrench on knob to see wich thread let go first but I'll try a softer approach first ha ha the knob would likely be what let's go. Anyway thanks again, Brett
Hi Brett, I had a look at the video and it appears that the lock rod simply screws up against the side of the movable choke block, so disregard what I said earlier.. That being the case, it's quite possible that the thread is flared/spread on the end where it makes contact, making it difficult to unscrew back through the nut. I doubt these units were ever made to be pulled apart. Some brute force may be in order. Unscrewing the rod without marking it will be a challenge. Good luck. Cheers Rob
I've gotta get myself one of these old AC welders, I have a little 170 amp inverter but the thing overheats to easily, it's great for small, intermittent jobs but sometimes I need some indestructible brute force
These old welders have got guts. Can lay down beads on heavy plate no worries. The current Peerless 160 is the best I've used on 240 AC. Takes a lot to overheat them. Cheers Rob
Ned, have you checked how clean the unit is on the inside? You may have a build up of workshop dirt, grit and gunk that has been sucked in by the cooling fan and now it is adding to the heat build up problem. Obviously unplug the welder before opening up the insides for a look.
I'd expect that DC would be better for heavy stuff, with DC electrode negative more of the heat ends up in the work piece somewhat related picture ; i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff150/inspector72/funny%20stuff/thirdworldarcwelder3.jpg
No gloves. Can't tell if he's wearing eye protection. I'm sorry for him. The strange thing is, he would need a great deal of ingenuity and knowledge to cobble that thing together, but how would he then not know the dangers of UV exposure?
What Rob didn't point out is that this type of "Old School" welder is an AC unit, ie it produces AC current at the electrode, whereas many of the welders available today are electronic "inverter" welders which produce DC current at the electrode. This kind of AC welder is heavy, but basically bullet proof, whereas the DC inverter welders are much smaller and lighter, but as with anything with electronics in them, require more careful handling, but they do offer a smoother, easier to start arc.
Rob you really need to try a variable shade auto darkening helmet for welding, makes life so much easier. Keep the flip front for looking at solar eclipses.
The difference is like walking to the shop in the rain or taking the Roller. The auto darkening helmet gives me an extra hand to use. The inverter is a TIG/ fantastic plasma cutter/ and stick welder that welds more like a mig than a stick , super controllable. I would never go back. My tip is NEVER try one, you might like it too much.
Yes, I agree about the extra hand side of things with auto darkening - certainly a plus when welding round stuff etc. So which welding unit have you got ? Cheers Rob
Thanks @@Xynudu, however the Peerless I have has the same locking knob on the front and I can't lift off the case without removing it or the rod. I figured it would just unscrew? Also, the tired old unit I bought was rivetted close, not screwed or bolted. Odd.
Hi Geordie, I have had two of these units and both cases came off without disturbing the choke. One was top and one front choke rod. There's really no point in taking off the case as there's just a (couple of ) transformer inside. They are a great little welder. Easily the best small AC welder I have used. I have a 4 coil copper wound unit, but the ally wound ones are also very good. You can buy them for like $10 these days as everyone has gone DC inverter happy. For rough dirty, oily, rusty conditions nothing comes close to an AC stick welder. DC just runs away and hides ;) However for some jobs DC is very good - thick to thin is a breeze, but everything must be sparkly clean. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Many thanks for the detailed reply, Rob. I must have a different model to the one you've taken apart in the video. This one I've got will need the locking rod for the choke removed as it passes through the front panel which is part of the case that covers the top and all four sides as one piece. As much as I'd like to use it as is, with the amount of mouse droppings and filth falling out of it, I'd rather clean and inspect it before powering it up. Cheers, Geordie.
Good idea to clean it out then Geordie. Mice can also eat through insulation, so check that. The only moving part inside is the metal transformer choke core/block. All wiring is rigid and fixed. It's been quite a while since I had mine apart. They may vary as Peerless have been making welders for a very very long time. The AC ones can be dirt cheap now if you look around. I bought the copper four coil for $20 or $30 dollars and the ally wound one for $10 for my Bro Inlaw. I also bought an old Lincoln with the big switch on the front for $10 as it had heavy duty 12 foot cables which I then cannibalized to put on my DC welder. Try buying those cables new . LOL they cost a fortune. I scrapped the rest of the welder. So old AC welders are almost a throw away item now, but they can be a cheap way to do cable upgrades. I smile when I see the prices some people ask for them and will never get. Cheers Rob
The magnetic shunt got me to think a little. At first I thought having it in the not pulled out position would allow a greater magnetic path for the coils, thus, higher current. Then, after you said pulling it out increased the current output it has to be that the removal of the shunt allows more magnetic flux to pass through the coils increasing the current. Interesting video, as I did not know about this type, just the ones with various taps. Also noticed comments about using a basic AC unit for tig. Yes it can be done, but lacks most of the control features an actual TIG unit has. Maybe where one would very seldom use TIG it would make sense. Adding an external high frequency start unit's cost to a basic AC welder would push the cost into "just buy a tig read unit" in the first place. Plus most inverters now days have Stick and AC/DC TIG. But nothing wrong with a basic AC unit like yours, they get the job done!
Hi Tom, I think the metal choke interrupts the magnetic fields, and prevents them from forming correctly when it's in. Same effect as surrounding a magnet with a steel cover effectively stops the magnetic fields on the covered sides. People seem to write off the old style AC welders these days, but prior to modern electronics pretty much everything was welded with AC - including tanks, trains, ships, high rise etc. The later welders may be easier to use, but if your technique is right, it's no problem. Cheers Rob
Satincraft are expensive, but good. Recommended for beginners. Most Chinese rods I've tried are rubbish, BUT there is one brand used by industry that is excellent, and not expensive. The brand is SWEC (Shanghi Welding Electrical Company) and these rods are great. That's mostly what I currently use. Chinese rods generally seem to need a few more amps, but the SWEC weld beautifully, and in any position. Very good penetration and slag removal. Try some, you won't be disappointed, if you're a half decent welder. Cheers Rob
While the AC machines are simple and pretty much indestructible, I gotta say, DC inverters are *much* nicer to weld with. Apart from the smoother, quieter DC arc, the inverter machines can include things like hot start and anti-stick, which make life a lot easier for less-than-expert welders. Yes they've got a lot more electronics in the guts that might be more likely to fail than a few coils of wire, bit I've got a BOC Smootharc 130 lunchbox welder that I've mistreated in the workshop, up a ladder over my shoulder and out in the bush off a generator for many years and I don't think it's failing any time soon.
Supposedly it gives better starting voltage for striking specialty rods - ie. low hydrogen. I never use it, as I find the normal outlet does everything quite OK. Rob
Just bought one of these, exact model for $120 aud at a farm town garage sale.
Can't wait to need it 😀
Good choice! Quite user friendly and probably the best AC welder brand I've used. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu cheers, happy to be settling with it then.
Could you please tell me which configuration represents high/low power settings? My unit had been painted
The work lead is at bottom left.
The electrode leads are far right 45 volts (general welding) at top, and 70 volts (specialty welding) at bottom.
For most welding use the 45 volt outlet.
Cheers Rob
Can be used for thick metals
Yes. These will run 3.2 mm rods OK.
Hey Rob, sorry to bother you again. I just acquired another one of these however this one needs a rebuild (for aesthetics mostly) but I cannot remove the knob on the power set locking handle so I can slide the cover up and off the unit. My first was actually a screw adjust this one is a slide and lock. Does the entire lock shaft back out unthreading? Do you remove the knob then push the shaft inside? There is slight movement on the knob either way attempting to remove the clamp lock knob but it locks up both ways at about a degree. The clamp does function but locks at the back end of thread, do I keep going and back it all out?
Hi, from memory I think the locking shaft unscrews and can be removed completely. The whole design was pretty simple and I think it just tightens a split collar the variable choke slide rod passes through. It's been a long time since I had that welder apart. Quite probably the end of the thread may be exposed and dirty and thus binding when you try to remove it. Good luck. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu thanks very much! So possibly unscrew or back out the lock shaft till it "bottoms out" then use say vice grips on the shaft to unscrew the knob and shaft out together as one? I considered a monkey wrench on knob to see wich thread let go first but I'll try a softer approach first ha ha the knob would likely be what let's go. Anyway thanks again, Brett
Hi Brett, I had a look at the video and it appears that the lock rod simply screws up against the side of the movable choke block, so disregard what I said earlier.. That being the case, it's quite possible that the thread is flared/spread on the end where it makes contact, making it difficult to unscrew back through the nut. I doubt these units were ever made to be pulled apart. Some brute force may be in order. Unscrewing the rod without marking it will be a challenge. Good luck. Cheers Rob
I've gotta get myself one of these old AC welders, I have a little 170 amp inverter but the thing overheats to easily, it's great for small, intermittent jobs but sometimes I need some indestructible brute force
These old welders have got guts. Can lay down beads on heavy plate no worries.
The current Peerless 160 is the best I've used on 240 AC.
Takes a lot to overheat them.
Cheers Rob
Ned, have you checked how clean the unit is on the inside? You may have a build up of workshop dirt, grit and gunk that has been sucked in by the cooling fan and now it is adding to the heat build up problem. Obviously unplug the welder before opening up the insides for a look.
I'd expect that DC would be better for heavy stuff, with DC electrode negative more of the heat ends up in the work piece
somewhat related picture ; i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff150/inspector72/funny%20stuff/thirdworldarcwelder3.jpg
Crikey.
That looks dangerous.
Rob
No gloves. Can't tell if he's wearing eye protection. I'm sorry for him. The strange thing is, he would need a great deal of ingenuity and knowledge to cobble that thing together, but how would he then not know the dangers of UV exposure?
Nice video. 4 coil best welder , agree with you . I have aluminum coil transformer (ТДМ-305 love this shit) :)
What Rob didn't point out is that this type of "Old School" welder is an AC unit, ie it produces AC current at the electrode, whereas many of the welders available today are electronic "inverter" welders which produce DC current at the electrode.
This kind of AC welder is heavy, but basically bullet proof, whereas the DC inverter welders are much smaller and lighter, but as with anything with electronics in them, require more careful handling, but they do offer a smoother, easier to start arc.
Good point Mark.
I guess I'm old school - flip helmet, never tried a DC welder.
Still manage to weld OK though.
Cheers Rob
Rob you really need to try a variable shade auto darkening helmet for welding, makes life so much easier. Keep the flip front for looking at solar eclipses.
He He. Maybe one day.
Rob
The difference is like walking to the shop in the rain or taking the Roller.
The auto darkening helmet gives me an extra hand to use.
The inverter is a TIG/ fantastic plasma cutter/ and stick welder that welds more like
a mig than a stick , super controllable.
I would never go back.
My tip is NEVER try one, you might like it too much.
Yes, I agree about the extra hand side of things with auto darkening - certainly a plus when welding round stuff etc.
So which welding unit have you got ?
Cheers Rob
How the devil do you get the locking bolt out of the front of the dang thing to remove the case? Can anyone tell me?
You don't. The case has perimeter bolts and lifts off.
Thanks @@Xynudu, however the Peerless I have has the same locking knob on the front and I can't lift off the case without removing it or the rod. I figured it would just unscrew? Also, the tired old unit I bought was rivetted close, not screwed or bolted. Odd.
Hi Geordie, I have had two of these units and both cases came off without disturbing the choke. One was top and one front choke rod.
There's really no point in taking off the case as there's just a (couple of ) transformer inside. They are a great little welder. Easily the best small AC welder I have used. I have a 4 coil copper wound unit, but the ally wound ones are also very good. You can buy them for like $10 these days as everyone has gone DC inverter happy. For rough dirty, oily, rusty conditions nothing comes close to an AC stick welder. DC just runs away and hides ;) However for some jobs DC is very good - thick to thin is a breeze, but everything must be sparkly clean.
Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Many thanks for the detailed reply, Rob. I must have a different model to the one you've taken apart in the video.
This one I've got will need the locking rod for the choke removed as it passes through the front panel which is part of the case that covers the top and all four sides as one piece.
As much as I'd like to use it as is, with the amount of mouse droppings and filth falling out of it, I'd rather clean and inspect it before powering it up.
Cheers, Geordie.
Good idea to clean it out then Geordie. Mice can also eat through insulation, so check that. The only moving part inside is the metal transformer choke core/block. All wiring is rigid and fixed.
It's been quite a while since I had mine apart. They may vary as Peerless have been making welders for a very very long time. The AC ones can be dirt cheap now if you look around.
I bought the copper four coil for $20 or $30 dollars and the ally wound one for $10 for my Bro Inlaw. I also bought an old Lincoln with the big switch on the front for $10 as it had heavy duty 12 foot cables which I then cannibalized to put on my DC welder. Try buying those cables new . LOL they cost a fortune. I scrapped the rest of the welder.
So old AC welders are almost a throw away item now, but they can be a cheap way to do cable upgrades. I smile when I see the prices some people ask for them and will never get.
Cheers Rob
The magnetic shunt got me to think a little. At first I thought having it in the not pulled out position would allow a greater magnetic path for the coils, thus, higher current. Then, after you said pulling it out increased the current output it has to be that the removal of the shunt allows more magnetic flux to pass through the coils increasing the current.
Interesting video, as I did not know about this type, just the ones with various taps.
Also noticed comments about using a basic AC unit for tig. Yes it can be done, but lacks most of the control features an actual TIG unit has. Maybe where one would very seldom use TIG it would make sense.
Adding an external high frequency start unit's cost to a basic AC welder would push the cost into "just buy a tig read unit" in the first place. Plus most inverters now days have Stick and AC/DC TIG.
But nothing wrong with a basic AC unit like yours, they get the job done!
Hi Tom,
I think the metal choke interrupts the magnetic fields, and prevents them from forming correctly when it's in.
Same effect as surrounding a magnet with a steel cover effectively stops the magnetic fields on the covered sides.
People seem to write off the old style AC welders these days, but prior to modern electronics pretty much everything was welded with AC - including tanks, trains, ships, high rise etc.
The later welders may be easier to use, but if your technique is right, it's no problem.
Cheers Rob
Good explanation.......................Cheers
I used to hate using mine till I discovered satincraft electrodes. They are the ducks guts.
Yes, Satincraft weld very nicely.
Can't go far wrong with them.
Rob
Yes it is an amazing difference between satincraft and other rods, but it also comes down to work preparation as well.
Satincraft are expensive, but good. Recommended for beginners.
Most Chinese rods I've tried are rubbish, BUT there is one brand used by industry that is excellent, and not expensive.
The brand is SWEC (Shanghi Welding Electrical Company) and these rods are great. That's mostly what I currently use.
Chinese rods generally seem to need a few more amps, but the SWEC weld beautifully, and in any position. Very good penetration and slag removal.
Try some, you won't be disappointed, if you're a half decent welder.
Cheers Rob
While the AC machines are simple and pretty much indestructible, I gotta say, DC inverters are *much* nicer to weld with. Apart from the smoother, quieter DC arc, the inverter machines can include things like hot start and anti-stick, which make life a lot easier for less-than-expert welders. Yes they've got a lot more electronics in the guts that might be more likely to fail than a few coils of wire, bit I've got a BOC Smootharc 130 lunchbox welder that I've mistreated in the workshop, up a ladder over my shoulder and out in the bush off a generator for many years and I don't think it's failing any time soon.
My stick welder is AT LEAST 50 years old still works like a beauty ,no idea what the brand is but weighs about 1cwt..
Hi Rob Great video and interesting as well
Inherited one of these, great little welder, but what is the "special welding" for? Mine has the same "plunger" style choke.
Supposedly it gives better starting voltage for striking specialty rods - ie. low hydrogen.
I never use it, as I find the normal outlet does everything quite OK.
Rob
xynudu thanks Rob, good to know, like you I'll probably never use it either :). Cheers!
I didn't know I always wanted to know what was inside my 140 amp welder and how it worked. Thanks.
G'day mate. Your welder looks better with its clothes on. Great video anyway. Keep on keeping on.