first up great video as usual. Im just a DIYer myself but a number of years ago I laid out a patio slab foundation for myself with similar dimensions and at the rear of my property with no easy access. The delivery driver gave me a great tip for my type 1 and stacked the ton bags on top of each other to a max of 3 high, so that instead of shovelling the stuff into my barrow ( no mechanical aids for me) I simply cut the base of the bag and let the product virtually flow out into the barrow. Not perfect but saved loads of work. Hope this helps someone or even yourself on future jobs
Something us novices always find helpful is when you can show us how you mix your mortar especially if you are going to use a bell mixer. A bit of a master class on the proper steps and how you get the right consistency always gets a lot of views and how you ckean it when you've finished. You could also show how you work out the block work so that it fits your dimensions and how you make a corner. You have a great channel which is helping a lot of people so thanks for taking the time to get these videos out there 👍
You can buy bricklayer tapes to help estimate blocks or bricks usual mix for conny 1:6 cement/ ballast or 1:2:4 cement course sand agregate... hope that helps
Started watching your channel as I was installing a roller shutter garage door and it was from the company you did the job with. I have also built my own workshop, it was 6m x 8m and I wanted to have roof joists go across the whole 6m. The cost of those joists were astronomical so I built my own. Now have an insulated workshop and no supports in the middle, well chuffed.
Tomorrow, I have a slightly larger , 4x8 meter base to lay. At the top of a hill, up a 400 meter track that’s too steep for a trailer behind my old land rover with off road tyres. So, 8 dumpy bags, 4 trips each. Mixed with a small cement mixer, wheel barrow and rake. Alone. I’m 62. Wish me luck.
Brilliant video as always. As you did at the end, a breakdown of costs for materials would be great to give a rough estimate of the entire build cost for a DIYer to do. Keep the content coming 😊
Really, really good video, thank you for sharing.. Totally appreciate how tricky the camerawork would have been, particularly with all the muck of the build and lighting, sound, multi-cam considerations etc. Using this as inspiration for my own build.. 2 questions: 1. Did you consider including a pipe through the foundations for an electric feed? 2. Why did you build the base on top of level ground rather than digging down into the ground to make the base flush with ground level? Would digging down bring complications?
Wondered if you had considered using a vibe to help settle the concrete? Thanks for the video series. Have the very same project to do myself. Best of luck.
Yes, I did originally hire one however the hire company cancelled my hire 2 days before the project, leaving me having to make the tamp seen in the video. Originally we were using a 4.2 aluminium tamp. Best of luck with your project!
These are brilliant videos with so much information,I like the fact it's done in the rain because life is not perfect and sometimes you just have to get the job done,hats off to this man for the variation in videos he puts out and the effort that must go in to putting them together,excellent stuff
You have some of the best videos on TH-cam for helping ordinary people with everyday tasks/projects and jobs that need to be done,good on you and your consideration for those watching👍
I'm planning on doing the same (just on a smaller scale) in spring. I prepped the area last summer/autumn - the garden slopes (quite a lot) toward the house so the area of land I've dug out is now level but a small retaining wall will probably be needed at the highest point. Tempted just to hire some lads to do it to be honest as the prep work was absolutely back breaking...😅
If I did not lay the DPM membrane and now 2 year on I am having humidty issues, do you have any recommendation on how to fix it without breaking everything and starting the project from scratch.
Another great home project video, I like the way you explain the whole process, I like a good workshop building video and yours is certainly going to be good, looking forward to the next installment, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia
When you remove your shuttering boards you will expose the sides of the Type one and sand how do you propose stopping this from falling out as it will not be solid. Will you build yuor block work on the outside of the slab to protect the sides?
Any advice on how to finish off DPM when putting a log cabin on a concrete base, please? Should I leave the shuttering on and just overlap down the sides I plan to put gravel around the edge?
Put my 10 x 6 summerhouse on plastic grids filled with gravel, lovely base with good drainage and ventilation. I would recommend them for smaller projects rather than chucking down a load of concrete and I can always move them if I want to relocate it.
What an excellent result given the tough conditions, I'm sure the team were well rewarded. The content, pace and edit of your videos is brilliant. Good luck with the next phase of works
Nice video - looking forward to the next part 👍. When laying the Type 1 how do you make sure you have the correct depth of 100mm across the entire base? I guess you can mark 100mm on the wood at edges but what would a string line work for the middle?
Great vid, was hoping to put 100mm insulation underneath a 4.5m x 4.5m pad, would you put the insulation on top of the membrane and then pour the concrete directly on top of the insulation, or would you put the insulation underneath the membrane?
I’ve been watching your channel and watching your journey! You’re very good at instructing and very inspiring! I look forward to the videos in 2024 and keep doing what your doing! all the very best! mike
Always the way in the UK, the weather always is out to get you. Do you not need to add a slight pitch to run the water off? Please make sure you do an in depth vid on how to get your workshop built dry with no condensation or mould problems in the future. Great vid mate keep em coming.
Absolutely. No, no run off required due to the building being build the complete size of the pad. No rain water will come in contact with the pad itself but will instead run off the fall on the workshop roof. Will do 👍
Hi, great video, horrible weather. But,,, when you take the boards away, how do you shore up the edges, and would the edges not normally be deeper than the middle to support the walls going on top (unless it's a wooden structure). Your jobs are always great, so maybe the level pour is adequate. Thanks
Perfectly times video. You're my "go-to" for technique and inspiration right now and I'm about to take on the exact same challenge as you Base/Shed wise. So this really helps.
10:47 just wondering you said about postponing it if you could just after the blinding sand. If you were to postpone and the type 1 and blinding were to get to wet at this point would it need redone or just topped off before the concrete is laid.
Thank you so much for this video. If I am digging deeper into the ground and building onto a clay base, would I still need to use the type 1 + building sand, etc? Thank you!
I had to comment, U lot R fooking MaChInEs! 🌧️🌧️🌧️ Well dun on not just getting that job completed but also getting it filmed! 🤩 Bravo that man, bravo! 👏
Hi. Does sub base need to be put down for an extension of two feet for a concrete base to put a shed on? Also Do the holes for the stakes need to be filled in afterwards? My shed has been put up don’t think the builder put a sub base down. And there’s a hole next to the shed where one of the stakes were. At one corner of the shed at the front. The door of the shed is hard to open. The job was recently completed.
Great video which gave me the confidence to tackle my own project. I'm almost at the stage to pour the concrete but I just read that a 6x3m base needs an expansion or a control joint. What do you think about this? I'd appreciate your advice. Cheers!
Doing 6.4 m x 4.7 m 230mm high concrete delivered and pumped 1700 hopefully that's a good deal. 160 feet from road side to site needed 8 m3 16 tonnes of concrete
Hi, Great video, I am doing my own so will be watching all your videos!! I Take it you leave the timbers in place then to stop the MOT spreading? would that not eventually rot and cause problems way down the line? Thanks Andy
Enjoyed this vid and the series so far. Just a quick question on the boundary stuff, for permitted development I've seen it has to be 2m away from the boundary wall doesn't it? Am I right in thinking you did a little less on yours? I'm hoping to build something similar and 600mm would be a lot better than 2m which I've read online as I'm limited on space as it is
Question: Why do you need to place DPM underneath the concrete? Will the water within the concrete otherwise be soaked up by the sand underneath it, or is it there for another reason?
Hi , really cool footage and tips. So base is perfectly level everywhere ? I've heard base should have some fall for rain otherwise water may stay in one place and make moisture?
Thanks. The base is perfectly level. No need for run off when building a garden room on top of it because the structure and cladding fly past the base so no water will ever come in contact with it.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Im planning to do garden house with pergola so arround that concrete base will be porcelan slabs so I recon I should think about some fall for water right? Is the slabs should have a bit fall as well ?
Should have kept the mini excavator for loading the mini dumper with stone , also that dumper looked like a struggle by not tipping itself , the tracked dumpers are better ,they have hydraulic tipping and also carry up to 1 ton
Forgive me for going slightly off topic, but I'd like to know how you did the invisible mending of the fence. One day the bird box is quietly thinking that its days are numbered, then there's a gurt big hole for a support beam, then all put back with bird box on a batten where the hole was. Is it the magic of filming hiding it, or have you magically mended the fence slats?
@@TheDIYGuy1 Hmm. It doesn't look big enough for the grey squirrels, so I hope that you're lucky enough to have the smaller red ones where you are. Guess invisible mending of fence panels is a trade secret. I was a bit over enthusiastic with my ivy clearance and have buggered one up is all.
I've been looking forward to this episode for a few weeks now and it didn't disapoint. Fantastic work. Thanks for making the effort to show us how it's done 👍
I did consider it and if it were being used as a garden room I would have. The pros are you I create your internal head height. Con is the amount of extra ground that would have to be removed for the insulation.
It’s based off Pythagorus theorem for a right angle triangle a^2 + b^2 = c^2 where c is the longest (diagonal) side So 3^2 + 4^2 = 25 = 5^2 As long as you use the same unit it will always work
Can't i just pour concrete mix straight onto soil without the sub base? I was thinking 1:5 cement to 20mm ballast sand ratio with rebar. Obviously making sure i compact the soil before pouring.
Hi great video. Quick question. Could you have used latex self leveller instead of that concrete so you didn't have to go through the trouble of levelling it out which seamed hard to do?
Hi diy guy. Did you wet cure your shed bases ? I just had one done and everything I google says I should spend the next 7 days wetting it 5-10 times a day
i know I'm late since the video was first posted but I've been thinking of building a 6mx7m garage im my back garden. it doesnt take up more than half of my garden space but im not sure will i need planning permission? or can i construct under permitted development?
Are the steels and the dpm because your doing a proper brick build off it? I wanna make a concrete base for a shed and wood store/rack would I need these or would just the aggregates be fine?
Very nice! How would you go about doing that inside an already built garage with paving slabs? Id like to replace them with a concrete slab. I can't see how it can be smoothed if the concrete goes wall to wall, unless its made in multiple sections.
@@JP_TaVeryMuch I've seen the concrete base made before the walls go up. If there's concrete from wall to wall, and there is the wooden strip at wach side, there isn't much space to move it from side to side. Then the strips would be stick in place. Ideally I'd like the concrete go from wall to wall unless there's not a good reason not to. This is a job I'll pay a professional to do. Its too big and expensive for me to screw it up. I'm not a builder.
@@paulklasmann1218 I'm sure that you will have seen floors being poured and levelled on countless property programmes. Channel 4 is good for those, especially Grand Designs and that George bloke's Restoration or Ugly house to whatever it's called. The best bit about indoor floors is that there's almost always no need for shuttering except maybe at the doors. Best let a pro do it as you say, especially if you want those trendy polished concrete floors.
@@JP_TaVeryMuch Id like a polished and level floor because I'd like to be able to use it as a workshop with large machine tools etc. Its a huge garage and seperate workshop but its old. A new floor would be a nice upgrade. Ill check out more videos but for the large floor I'll get local builders in. Maybe I will do the workshop in the future. It already has a concrete floor but its pretty rough. Its great to have building skills. I can do some things but not the big jobs.
Love all your videos mate well done ypu have inspired me to start my own channel and I woukd really appreciate it if you could let me know what editing software you us as i just do everything on my phone and now my channel is getting bugger i would like it to be a bit more professional. Keep up the good work and congratulations on having a great youtube channel 😀
I realised you posted this 6 months ago, but I i'd like to know why you didn't go for ready mix concrete and have it piped direct to your pad out back to save transporting it from the mixer using the dumper truck and barrow? Otherwise excellent video series of your build.
I think he said no, anything less than 30 square foot does not require it. Which is good to know as I want a workshop so good to know, , as long as you are less 2.5m hight, less than 30 sq, you don't need planning permission. I think he so said you need to have sort wall to as well.
Dont you just love the british weather 😵💫😵💫😵💫 keep up the great work love the videos - am interested in the dpm stuff and how that gets integrated into the walls etc...
This will be long term project and I will probably stay as love the area. I do however have some other property interests in the pipeline for the future 😊
@@TheDIYGuy1 I think you should clarify this in your next video. If the ground level was not being raised to contain the sub-base then i'd have suggested thickening the edges of the concrete before pouring to contain it all. Also i'd advise you cut a control joint at the 3m mark to help with cracking and maybe even one centrally down the length. Its also worth a mention that the longer you keep the slab covered the harder it will become as it slows down the curing process by keeping the moisture in the slab, this is really effective but time does not always allow. Also for a "Pro" finish i'd have bull floated the slab to further smooth it out. Anyway, good job overall concrete is always harder work than anticipated on the day.
The great British weather made this one a challenge. More workshop content to come once I dry out 😂
What would Labour cost have been??
first up great video as usual. Im just a DIYer myself but a number of years ago I laid out a patio slab foundation for myself with similar dimensions and at the rear of my property with no easy access. The delivery driver gave me a great tip for my type 1 and stacked the ton bags on top of each other to a max of 3 high, so that instead of shovelling the stuff into my barrow ( no mechanical aids for me) I simply cut the base of the bag and let the product virtually flow out into the barrow. Not perfect but saved loads of work. Hope this helps someone or even yourself on future jobs
Good tip 👍
Genius!!!!!
Thanks for the cost breakdown always nice to see the transparency 👍
Sure, your welcome.
Something us novices always find helpful is when you can show us how you mix your mortar especially if you are going to use a bell mixer. A bit of a master class on the proper steps and how you get the right consistency always gets a lot of views and how you ckean it when you've finished. You could also show how you work out the block work so that it fits your dimensions and how you make a corner. You have a great channel which is helping a lot of people so thanks for taking the time to get these videos out there 👍
This one will be a timber building but thanks for the suggestion
You can buy bricklayer tapes to help estimate blocks or bricks usual mix for conny 1:6 cement/ ballast or 1:2:4 cement course sand agregate... hope that helps
Started watching your channel as I was installing a roller shutter garage door and it was from the company you did the job with. I have also built my own workshop, it was 6m x 8m and I wanted to have roof joists go across the whole 6m. The cost of those joists were astronomical so I built my own. Now have an insulated workshop and no supports in the middle, well chuffed.
Tomorrow, I have a slightly larger , 4x8 meter base to lay. At the top of a hill, up a 400 meter track that’s too steep for a trailer behind my old land rover with off road tyres. So, 8 dumpy bags, 4 trips each. Mixed with a small cement mixer, wheel barrow and rake. Alone. I’m 62. Wish me luck.
Wow sounds like a bit of work. Good luck 👍
Brilliant video as always. As you did at the end, a breakdown of costs for materials would be great to give a rough estimate of the entire build cost for a DIYer to do. Keep the content coming 😊
Thanks, will do!
Really, really good video, thank you for sharing.. Totally appreciate how tricky the camerawork would have been, particularly with all the muck of the build and lighting, sound, multi-cam considerations etc. Using this as inspiration for my own build.. 2 questions: 1. Did you consider including a pipe through the foundations for an electric feed? 2. Why did you build the base on top of level ground rather than digging down into the ground to make the base flush with ground level? Would digging down bring complications?
Great video, couldnt find the bit where you show why the dpm was folded over the shuttering bud...?
Wondered if you had considered using a vibe to help settle the concrete? Thanks for the video series. Have the very same project to do myself. Best of luck.
Yes, I did originally hire one however the hire company cancelled my hire 2 days before the project, leaving me having to make the tamp seen in the video. Originally we were using a 4.2 aluminium tamp. Best of luck with your project!
Have you a calculation to work out how much hardcore, cement and that you need ??
These are brilliant videos with so much information,I like the fact it's done in the rain because life is not perfect and sometimes you just have to get the job done,hats off to this man for the variation in videos he puts out and the effort that must go in to putting them together,excellent stuff
I’m glad you like the videos and see the effort I’m going to for the audience to learn and enjoy. Means a lot that people notice 👍
You have some of the best videos on TH-cam for helping ordinary people with everyday tasks/projects and jobs that need to be done,good on you and your consideration for those watching👍
Thanks a lot!
Great job and great wellies/rubberboots!! Would like to see these again.... :)
More to come!
Had a pad laid, very similar to the way you have done it. Good job, wooden outhouse has been on it for the past 5 years no problems
I'm planning on doing the same (just on a smaller scale) in spring. I prepped the area last summer/autumn - the garden slopes (quite a lot) toward the house so the area of land I've dug out is now level but a small retaining wall will probably be needed at the highest point. Tempted just to hire some lads to do it to be honest as the prep work was absolutely back breaking...😅
👍 it is hard work!
If I did not lay the DPM membrane and now 2 year on I am having humidty issues, do you have any recommendation on how to fix it without breaking everything and starting the project from scratch.
Another great home project video, I like the way you explain the whole process, I like a good workshop building video and yours is certainly going to be good, looking forward to the next installment, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia
Thank you very much!
I love these vids, real down to earth, hands dirty stuff. Nice one matey.
When you remove your shuttering boards you will expose the sides of the Type one and sand how do you propose stopping this from falling out as it will not be solid. Will you build yuor block work on the outside of the slab to protect the sides?
The sides will have a cheaper hardcore backfilled against them before the drainage and paving goes down.
Any advice on how to finish off DPM when putting a log cabin on a concrete base, please? Should I leave the shuttering on and just overlap down the sides I plan to put gravel around the edge?
Put my 10 x 6 summerhouse on plastic grids filled with gravel, lovely base with good drainage and ventilation. I would recommend them for smaller projects rather than chucking down a load of concrete and I can always move them if I want to relocate it.
What an excellent result given the tough conditions, I'm sure the team were well rewarded. The content, pace and edit of your videos is brilliant. Good luck with the next phase of works
Thank you very much! Oh yes, I always go out of my way to pay the guys back 👍
Proper job. Nice one just what I needed to know
Nice video - looking forward to the next part 👍. When laying the Type 1 how do you make sure you have the correct depth of 100mm across the entire base? I guess you can mark 100mm on the wood at edges but what would a string line work for the middle?
Great vid, was hoping to put 100mm insulation underneath a 4.5m x 4.5m pad, would you put the insulation on top of the membrane and then pour the concrete directly on top of the insulation, or would you put the insulation underneath the membrane?
I’ve been watching your channel and watching your journey! You’re very good at instructing and very inspiring! I look forward to the videos in 2024 and keep doing what your doing! all the very best!
mike
Thanks very much for following along,much appreciated. Loads to come in 2024 and beyond
Always the way in the UK, the weather always is out to get you. Do you not need to add a slight pitch to run the water off?
Please make sure you do an in depth vid on how to get your workshop built dry with no condensation or mould problems in the future. Great vid mate keep em coming.
Absolutely. No, no run off required due to the building being build the complete size of the pad. No rain water will come in contact with the pad itself but will instead run off the fall on the workshop roof. Will do 👍
Respect on the hard graft, made worse by the bad weather
Thanks a lot!
Brilliant, I now know the use of Pythagoras theorem
Great video Cameron even with all the bad weather, looking forward to the next episode and you'll definitely have a big workshop there.👍👍
Thanks 👍 glad you liked it
Hi, great video, horrible weather. But,,, when you take the boards away, how do you shore up the edges, and would the edges not normally be deeper than the middle to support the walls going on top (unless it's a wooden structure). Your jobs are always great, so maybe the level pour is adequate. Thanks
Hi, edges get backfilled with a cheaper hardcore before the drainage and paving go down. The level pour is plenty for a timber frame structure.
I think the penny has dropped and you can see when you strike that shutter that it's back to front
Perfectly times video. You're my "go-to" for technique and inspiration right now and I'm about to take on the exact same challenge as you Base/Shed wise. So this really helps.
Awesome! Thank you! Good luck with your project
10:47 just wondering you said about postponing it if you could just after the blinding sand. If you were to postpone and the type 1 and blinding were to get to wet at this point would it need redone or just topped off before the concrete is laid.
Thank you so much for this video. If I am digging deeper into the ground and building onto a clay base, would I still need to use the type 1 + building sand, etc? Thank you!
I love watching all your vids...always well explained, never seen you lose your cool and always with great tips and results.
Thanks very much 😊, glad you like my vids
I had to comment, U lot R fooking MaChInEs! 🌧️🌧️🌧️ Well dun on not just getting that job completed but also getting it filmed! 🤩 Bravo that man, bravo! 👏
Thanks 👍
Hi. Does sub base need to be put down for an extension of two feet for a concrete base to put a shed on?
Also Do the holes for the stakes need to be filled in afterwards?
My shed has been put up don’t think the builder put a sub base down. And there’s a hole next to the shed where one of the stakes were. At one corner of the shed at the front. The door of the shed is hard to open.
The job was recently completed.
Great video which gave me the confidence to tackle my own project. I'm almost at the stage to pour the concrete but I just read that a 6x3m base needs an expansion or a control joint. What do you think about this? I'd appreciate your advice. Cheers!
Go for it. Not needed with the mesh in there.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Thanks for the advice, I have mesh to go in! 😊👍
Why do some people not sweep the finish? I really enjoyed this video.
Very informative vid. I learned lots. I’ve subscribed and will watch other video in the future. Well done guys. 🙌🏽 🙌🏽
Doing 6.4 m x 4.7 m 230mm high concrete delivered and pumped 1700 hopefully that's a good deal. 160 feet from road side to site needed 8 m3 16 tonnes of concrete
Hi, Great video, I am doing my own so will be watching all your videos!! I Take it you leave the timbers in place then to stop the MOT spreading? would that not eventually rot and cause problems way down the line? Thanks Andy
What would you recommend when this is needed on ground with bad drainage?
Another good video don’t listen to people putting you down
Thanks. I don’t 😊. It’s just part of TH-cam that unfortunately all creators have to face into.
Really interested.📯 finally rain stopped.
Thanks. I know right!
Is there a thing about the slump test?
Thanks
Enjoyed this vid and the series so far. Just a quick question on the boundary stuff, for permitted development I've seen it has to be 2m away from the boundary wall doesn't it? Am I right in thinking you did a little less on yours? I'm hoping to build something similar and 600mm would be a lot better than 2m which I've read online as I'm limited on space as it is
You can go closer but you are then required to make the boundary facing walls non combustible 👍
Put a concrete base down some 30 years ago, just hardcore / rubble at the bottom then concrete at top ...... Still going strong
An outstanding video. Really well explained as you went along. That Hyundai compactor looks a good little bit of kit
👍 glad you liked it
Would that thickness of base be suitable for a 4 x 3m traditional conservatory? thanks
You did a great job mate 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Question: Why do you need to place DPM underneath the concrete? Will the water within the concrete otherwise be soaked up by the sand underneath it, or is it there for another reason?
It is to eliminate the possibility of damp/moisture rising up through the concrete.
Really useful video. Nice pace, and clear instructions. Very useful.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi , really cool footage and tips. So base is perfectly level everywhere ? I've heard base should have some fall for rain otherwise water may stay in one place and make moisture?
Thanks. The base is perfectly level. No need for run off when building a garden room on top of it because the structure and cladding fly past the base so no water will ever come in contact with it.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Im planning to do garden house with pergola so arround that concrete base will be porcelan slabs so I recon I should think about some fall for water right? Is the slabs should have a bit fall as well ?
Nice videos really helpful, how long did you let the concrete cure before fixing the framework with concrete screws ?
👍 it was left for about a week if I remember but after a couple of days it would of been ok
I reckon you could get a pool table in there 😊
Should have kept the mini excavator for loading the mini dumper with stone , also that dumper looked like a struggle by not tipping itself , the tracked dumpers are better ,they have hydraulic tipping and also carry up to 1 ton
Your right. They are a lot more than 35 pounds for the day though. I guess I was trying to pull back some costs due to it already being fairly pricey
Great work/vid in tough conditions. Look forward to the follow up.
Thanks 👍
Forgive me for going slightly off topic, but I'd like to know how you did the invisible mending of the fence.
One day the bird box is quietly thinking that its days are numbered, then there's a gurt big hole for a support beam, then all put back with bird box on a batten where the hole was.
Is it the magic of filming hiding it, or have you magically mended the fence slats?
😂😂 my other half complained that her squirrel house had been tampered with so I had to put it back!
@@TheDIYGuy1
Hmm. It doesn't look big enough for the grey squirrels, so I hope that you're lucky enough to have the smaller red ones where you are.
Guess invisible mending of fence panels is a trade secret. I was a bit over enthusiastic with my ivy clearance and have buggered one up is all.
Hi..
So when doing the base you don't need to put a weed membrane down... just type 1.
No weed membrane needed in this application
I've been looking forward to this episode for a few weeks now and it didn't disapoint. Fantastic work. Thanks for making the effort to show us how it's done 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Did you consider insulating the slab? What are the pros and cons of that?
I did consider it and if it were being used as a garden room I would have. The pros are you I create your internal head height. Con is the amount of extra ground that would have to be removed for the insulation.
What concrete did you use? Strength of it? C20?
Fantastic video, then again that can be said for all your videos, top man we’ll done 😊
Thanks a ton!
Nice job mate . Hard work
Thanks 😊
Does the 3,4,5 rule work with any unit of measurement? Apologies if that’s a silly question, my head hurts. 😁
It’s based off Pythagorus theorem for a right angle triangle a^2 + b^2 = c^2 where c is the longest (diagonal) side
So 3^2 + 4^2 = 25 = 5^2
As long as you use the same unit it will always work
Can't i just pour concrete mix straight onto soil without the sub base? I was thinking 1:5 cement to 20mm ballast sand ratio with rebar. Obviously making sure i compact the soil before pouring.
I wouldn’t recommend this personally for a few reasons.
Amazong video, looked like alot of effort went into this one 👏👏👏
Thanks a lot. It certainly did 😊
Should have used a length of 110mm drainage pipe to tamp / float it - you get a much smoother finish.
I'm looking at buying a 1970s house, when you cut parts of the ceilings out did you test the artex for asbestos or does it not matter too much?
Yeah, test it.
Great team work, it’s a massive job that - well done 👍🏻
Thank you! 👍
Thanks for the video mate - will be saving to my playlists and have subbed 😄
Awesome, thank you!
Great video and thanks for letting us know the costs
Well done
No problem 👍 thanks
Hi great video. Quick question. Could you have used latex self leveller instead of that concrete so you didn't have to go through the trouble of levelling it out which seamed hard to do?
Doesn't work outside and also can't have it as thick
Hi diy guy. Did you wet cure your shed bases ? I just had one done and everything I google says I should spend the next 7 days wetting it 5-10 times a day
i know I'm late since the video was first posted but I've been thinking of building a 6mx7m garage im my back garden. it doesnt take up more than half of my garden space but im not sure will i need planning permission? or can i construct under permitted development?
Do you need dpm for an outside concrete slap?
You made it look easy - fantastic vid!
Thanks 😊
What calculator would you recommend to use because the last one I used got the ratio wrong so I didn't have enough materials.
Have I missed Part 4 - putting the roof on the workshop? Can't seem to find it and now totally addicted.....
Coming tomorrow at 3pm 😊👍
4m by 6m would make it 24 sq.m, isn't this over the permitted 15 sq.m?
Nope 😃
@TheDIYGuy1 correction, isn't it over the building regulation limit for an outbuilding? Triggering build inspection?
absolutely great job, too bad the weather was rainy
Yeah was tough going!
how much did that lot cost? is that motorway foundations you are building ? ridiculous over spec for a a big shed base
Are the steels and the dpm because your doing a proper brick build off it? I wanna make a concrete base for a shed and wood store/rack would I need these or would just the aggregates be fine?
The steels are just anti crack mesh, they don't add much strength.
Top notch mate looking forward to the next part of the build
👍 been working on the workshop today in fact and filming
Very nice! How would you go about doing that inside an already built garage with paving slabs? Id like to replace them with a concrete slab. I can't see how it can be smoothed if the concrete goes wall to wall, unless its made in multiple sections.
Step backwards with your leveling board.
How d'you think they do it in houses?
@@JP_TaVeryMuch I've seen the concrete base made before the walls go up. If there's concrete from wall to wall, and there is the wooden strip at wach side, there isn't much space to move it from side to side. Then the strips would be stick in place. Ideally I'd like the concrete go from wall to wall unless there's not a good reason not to. This is a job I'll pay a professional to do. Its too big and expensive for me to screw it up. I'm not a builder.
@@JP_TaVeryMuch But a base like in this video I would try myself.
@@paulklasmann1218
I'm sure that you will have seen floors being poured and levelled on countless property programmes. Channel 4 is good for those, especially Grand Designs and that George bloke's Restoration or Ugly house to whatever it's called.
The best bit about indoor floors is that there's almost always no need for shuttering except maybe at the doors.
Best let a pro do it as you say, especially if you want those trendy polished concrete floors.
@@JP_TaVeryMuch Id like a polished and level floor because I'd like to be able to use it as a workshop with large machine tools etc. Its a huge garage and seperate workshop but its old. A new floor would be a nice upgrade. Ill check out more videos but for the large floor I'll get local builders in. Maybe I will do the workshop in the future. It already has a concrete floor but its pretty rough. Its great to have building skills. I can do some things but not the big jobs.
Thanks for sharing costs. Really helpful🙂
My pleasure 😊
Love all your videos mate well done ypu have inspired me to start my own channel and I woukd really appreciate it if you could let me know what editing software you us as i just do everything on my phone and now my channel is getting bugger i would like it to be a bit more professional.
Keep up the good work and congratulations on having a great youtube channel 😀
Thanks a lot. Good luck on your TH-cam journey. I use a MacBook Pro with a mixture of final cut or iMovie depending on the project.
@@TheDIYGuy1 cheers
I realised you posted this 6 months ago, but I i'd like to know why you didn't go for ready mix concrete and have it piped direct to your pad out back to save transporting it from the mixer using the dumper truck and barrow? Otherwise excellent video series of your build.
I would think it’s cost, I just had a quote for a pump and it was £650 on top of the £500 of the concrete
Brilliant video mate! Enjoying this series 👍
Glad you enjoy it!
just wandering what will be the labour cost on this job!
Hi I'm from Canada, and we dont use sand before concrete. Why you did that ?
It's to protect the damp proof membrane (dpm) from accidentally being punctured by the sharp mot type 1 sub base.
Do you need planning permission for something this size?
I think he said no, anything less than 30 square foot does not require it. Which is good to know as I want a workshop so good to know, , as long as you are less 2.5m hight, less than 30 sq, you don't need planning permission. I think he so said you need to have sort wall to as well.
Rules differ depending on how close to the boundary you are too. Further away from the boundary can be taller so best to check with the local council
Absolutely. Over 2m from boundary you can go taller than 2.5
Correct. Under 30sqm, your good as long as you stay at 2.5m or below and use a non combustible on the boundary facing walls.
@@TheDIYGuy1 when you say non combustible material, can you give a example that you could buy that doesn't break the bank???
So I've tried calculator .. how much sand do I need for 3.4 x 2.5 metres / 100mm deep . I'm stumped
Well done that was done properly.
Thanks 👍
Thank you
You're welcome
Dont you just love the british weather 😵💫😵💫😵💫 keep up the great work love the videos - am interested in the dpm stuff and how that gets integrated into the walls etc...
Thank you! Will do! Ah it will all make sense in future episodes 😊
@@TheDIYGuy1 are you looking to sell this house once you have done all your work to it then move onto another? Or are you going to live there?
This will be long term project and I will probably stay as love the area. I do however have some other property interests in the pipeline for the future 😊
Brilliant mate
Thanks a lot
what stops the sides of type 1 and sand spilling out when you strike the shuttering?
The sides will be back filled with a cheaper hardcore before drainage and paving is installed.
gotcha@@TheDIYGuy1
@@TheDIYGuy1 I think you should clarify this in your next video. If the ground level was not being raised to contain the sub-base then i'd have suggested thickening the edges of the concrete before pouring to contain it all. Also i'd advise you cut a control joint at the 3m mark to help with cracking and maybe even one centrally down the length. Its also worth a mention that the longer you keep the slab covered the harder it will become as it slows down the curing process by keeping the moisture in the slab, this is really effective but time does not always allow. Also for a "Pro" finish i'd have bull floated the slab to further smooth it out.
Anyway, good job overall concrete is always harder work than anticipated on the day.
Surely you need to dig down to clay / rock? Not just laying on top of soil?
He put type 1.subbase down, so its fine