Originally didn't bypass the factory resistor wire to your msd coil? I ran a relay for ignition power-on, and fed a fused 12v line through the relay. Edit: there's an infamous pink wire that kicks voltage down to 6v to save the original points system. 10-12v usually fries them pretty quickly.
It was the oil pump drive shaft that was holding the distributor from dropping in. Rotating the crank 360* puts the distributor 180* out. Sounds like you had a power problem to the coil, possibly the OEM tach or the resistor wire under the dash. I would like to diagnose & refurbish your old points dist.
@@FootageFactory - Oh I damaged some wires while working on it but it is ok mostly. The insulation is getting stiff in some spots but since it just lays there, no problems.
I have no idea what y’all are saying yet. Just started fixing mine last week. Learned a lot already, it moved? Reddit and mustang forums helped. Got a 289 book so I learn so basics 🥲
Not sure if you've fixed it, but some ignition systems have a ballast resistor in the wiring to the coil, which will lower the voltage from 12v to somewhere around 6v-10v (I forget). In an original early Mustang wiring harness, the wire with the resistor is pinkish and under the dash. It's the same color in my 65 Ford F100 I believe. It has a push pin where it hooks via a push pin to another wire that runs to the ignition switch. If you put the switch in ON, and measure the voltage from positive on the coil, it will be lower than 12v because of that resistor. If you unplug the pink wire and measure from the ignition switch it may be 12v. It's possible later models / decades of wiring modifications moved the resistor elsewhere, but a points style ignition system will have it somewhere. The American Autowire harness doesn't have the resistor so it should work for an MSD ignition that needs 12v but would burn up a stock points ignition system.
I should’ve made that part of the video I’m sorry. Did you see the part of the video where I hot wired the car straight through the cab? I ran 12v battery to a relay, and I activate the relay with the old ignition wire…if this is confusing I can make a video once I’m around the car next in about 2 weeks. Would you like me to?
Originally didn't bypass the factory resistor wire to your msd coil? I ran a relay for ignition power-on, and fed a fused 12v line through the relay.
Edit: there's an infamous pink wire that kicks voltage down to 6v to save the original points system. 10-12v usually fries them pretty quickly.
It was the oil pump drive shaft that was holding the distributor from dropping in. Rotating the crank 360* puts the distributor 180* out. Sounds like you had a power problem to the coil, possibly the OEM tach or the resistor wire under the dash. I would like to diagnose & refurbish your old points dist.
I’ve got American auto wire going in soon. Especially since that wiring can’t be trusted at its age. I don’t have the old dist anymore.
@@FootageFactory - Gosh I’m trusting the oem wiring in Betsy. 😳
@@donsmanufactory Is that by choice, Is the OEM looking good on your car? When I pulled the wires out of my 65 is was scary what I pulled out!
@@FootageFactory - Oh I damaged some wires while working on it but it is ok mostly. The insulation is getting stiff in some spots but since it just lays there, no problems.
I have no idea what y’all are saying yet. Just started fixing mine last week. Learned a lot already, it moved? Reddit and mustang forums helped. Got a 289 book so I learn so basics 🥲
Hello were you have the cable 12 volts direct from inside I have same issue not having only 10 volts sometimes 12 v thanks
I’m about to re wire the whole dang thing bc I can’t figure out why this issue came about.
Not sure if you've fixed it, but some ignition systems have a ballast resistor in the wiring to the coil, which will lower the voltage from 12v to somewhere around 6v-10v (I forget).
In an original early Mustang wiring harness, the wire with the resistor is pinkish and under the dash. It's the same color in my 65 Ford F100 I believe. It has a push pin where it hooks via a push pin to another wire that runs to the ignition switch.
If you put the switch in ON, and measure the voltage from positive on the coil, it will be lower than 12v because of that resistor. If you unplug the pink wire and measure from the ignition switch it may be 12v.
It's possible later models / decades of wiring modifications moved the resistor elsewhere, but a points style ignition system will have it somewhere.
The American Autowire harness doesn't have the resistor so it should work for an MSD ignition that needs 12v but would burn up a stock points ignition system.
Where did you run that wire to to get it to have the 12v
I should’ve made that part of the video I’m sorry. Did you see the part of the video where I hot wired the car straight through the cab? I ran 12v battery to a relay, and I activate the relay with the old ignition wire…if this is confusing I can make a video once I’m around the car next in about 2 weeks. Would you like me to?
Did I hear an electric fuel pump?
More than likely, it’s loud as hell.
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