In my shop manual says there's a Tickler button on the left hand side of the Zenth 175CD carburetor facing the throat. When you lift up on the Tickler it supposed to change the RPM, or not depending on fat, or lean... 5:10, Much more accurate, instead of the screwdriver method, used.
Run-on can be a result of higher compression. You can try a colder plug, or even putting in some Techron. If there were any carbon deposits on the pistons, the higher compression of your refurbished head may be creating hot spots. Another thing to try is higher octane fuel.
Noticed the Tenon Magazine T, awesome, I assume you are a hand tool guy, so am I, how fun to see you and your dad tag team this car... I'm reviewing your videos as I go through my search for my own TR4!
Jim, thanks for checking out our videos. Hopefully we can at least teach you what NOT to do when you find your TR! I (Mark) enjoy restoring and working with hand tools. No expert here, but I find it almost therapeutic to unplug for a few hours and build something. No noisy machines or finger eaters. Dad, on the other hand, is all power, all the way! Haha
@@WegsGarage That’s a great combination between you and your dad that way. The thing I really like about hand tools is that you work at one RPM, power tools are 20,000 RPM and not forgiving! There’s something about making a shaving less than 0.001 inch and leave a surface that is accurate and smoother than you could with a machine or sandpaper. I have a hand plane addiction!!
Sounds great guys and it looks like a smooth pull on the road going thru the gears. On the run on after shut off, you don’t have a electric fuel pump by any chance? Can’t recall. Enjoy the hectic out of it before the snow arrives. Best part of it all the smile on your faces at the end. Doesn’t get any better than that. Cheers…
Nice job. I hope you can get a few more rides in before it gets too cold. It sounds great and seems to have clean exhaust. My original manual calls for an 850 RPM idle which is a little low unless the car is perfectly tuned up. Gauges should be from left to right Temp, Oil, Fuel, Amps. Also looks like you've got the fan knob on the choke cable. Those upper switches are Lights, Wipers, Washer, Choke. Have a great winter.
One item often overlooked that causes run-on is after a machine shop surfaces a TR head it will leave the shrouding in and around the combustion chamber much thinner which now makes the thinner shrouding act as a spark plug causing over-run and spark knock. If thats the case those thinner edges have to be trimmed back before installing the head. Since you just had a valve job, I suspect that the head was resurfaced at the same time. Always be ready to kill the engine by putting it in gear and releaseing the clutch to prevent damage to the engine after an ignition-cut. The engine will sometimes even try to run backwards if not stopped immediately. Since all of our TR's are now senior citizens its hard to tell in most cases how many times a head has been surfaced and how many thousands have been shaved off. There is a spec out there on how thick a new head is and where to measure it but at the time of this writing I could not find it. Good job getting your TR back on the road and for the excellent self-help videos, my son and I have shamelessly borrowed some of your great ideas when we were restoring our 1961 TR4!
Volvo cast iron heads have the same issue with run for exactly this reason. Hot spots can also cause detonation and knock, but can be improved by rounding all ridges and looking after combustion chamber flow. I always like to go over each combustion chamber and deburr after reconditioning at a shop.
WTG! Engine sounds great and seems to accelerate nicely. Regarding the "run-on" problem. Did you use the old spark plugs? The two that were in cylinders 3 & 4 may have deposits. I would try a new set of plugs. Good luck.
I must have missed a segment. How did you ever solve the over heating problem ? I have a red '66 TR4A that will get hot when climbing a steady grade for 5 to 8 miles ( im in the north East so there are lots of hills) on a hot day or sitting at idle for more than 5 minutes or so. Otherwise under normal running conditions it will stay fairly cool. I do not have an electric fan. All stock. I have tried electric fans on other British cars I have owned with absolutely no better results so trying to avoid going that route again. I am not mechanically inclined at all so I always appreciate the efforts of others showing their trials and tribulations. Have thought about getting a custom double core aluminum radiator but not sure if that would just be an expensive fail ?
My car has had the same run-on issues for thirty years. The problem is the gas we have available. Not high enough octane. I have always just stalled my engine out when turning it off. Foot on the brake, gear in second release the clutch as you turn the key off. I don’t even think about it it’s just automatic. If you mix in a half aviation fuel it will also stop it.
Sounds Great, do you have an owners manual? if you do look at the dash page I think you have the gauges mixed up. Mine will knock on 91 but is ok 93 octane
Sound good . Check spark plugs for heat if glazed could be a hot spot.is fuel mixture a bit weak? All you can do is what your doing start at plugs mixture,timing. Good luck but it looks great and sounds great a superb job for father and son👍
Yeah, others have pointed out the gauges too...oopsies 😂. Will get that sorted out... eventually. Definitely need to try some higher octane fuel. Thanks for the tip!
You might try retarding the timing a little further to see if that helps with the run-on. This assumes the vacuum advance is working properly and allowing the advance to return fully at idle. Premium gas would probably help, too. If the head was skimmed during the recent work, that may have increased compression a little. I agree about trying one step cooler plugs, too. With the fresh work done one the engine, it's probably not carbon. After the head work, were there any burrs or sharp corners in the combustion chambers? If so, those can glow and cause an engine to "diesel" after it's been run for a while. I must say, that air flow meter looks great for balancing the carbs. I have a little tool made just for the purpose, but it's a little fiddly to work with because it blocks too much of the flow.
1. I can see in the movie, temperature is still significant too high. On a normal Road with let's say 60 - 80km/h the gauge should be right in the middle. If you get stuck, it might be as yours is normal, but comes down as soon as you hit the open road again. Not good. 2. Run-on after turn off appears, if the sparks are too hot. Might come because the compression is good again. Try "colder" sparks, read Wokshop-manual and turn in the right sparks with the right temperature-coefficient. 3. Does your TR has an Overdrive? Is it working?
That's the overdrive switch. It would normally be up for disengaged, down for engaged. (There are also switches on the gearbox that prevent the OD from engaging in 1st gear, but allow it to operate in the other forward gears.) Maybe it's the lever we're seeing is in the engaged position, but the OD isn't wired up to it yet. If there is even one installed... I don't recall if their car has one... there was a "blanked off" eustacion and no lever/switch on the non OD cars. TR4 with OD from the factory had an "O" suffix after the commission or VIN #. For example, the # for my TR4 is CT17602L without an O, so it didn't come with factory OD, although it now has one installed.
I’m sure you figured it out by now. Bing watching the episodes. My money is on your electric fan turning into a generator when you shut off the ignition.
Regarding the run on. Looks like you are still running a little hot. My run on finally stopped when I got my 4 back to 70c. My heat problem started when I put a new six blade pump in..go figure. New pump forced even more non cooled water into the cool start bypass loop. Restricted the hose with a 3/4 inch copper pipe fitters cap with 3/8 drilled hole. Brought it back to a sweet 70C from a scary 90C. And no run on. Did you stick with that plugged bypass port and holes on the thermo approach from an earlier vid??
Isn't run-on usually caused by carbon deposits? We all saw that you have a pretty clean there, so that wouldn't be the problem. Could be that it's too lean I suppose.
Whooo Yah! Sounds great and looks like Dad and son are both happy, and should be. Hope you get some more driving time in.
Great to see the both of you enjoying it!
Great job guy’s. Drive the hell out of it before your cold and snow is upon you 👍🏻
That is the plan! Running out of time 🥶
Great to see the car on the road! I know you are happy to have it running so smoothly - nice accomplishment!
Yep nite and day! Good going guys!
Thanks! It is fun to listen back on these old videos. We have come a long way!
In my shop manual says there's a Tickler button on the left hand side of the Zenth 175CD carburetor facing the throat. When you lift up on the Tickler it supposed to change the RPM, or not depending on fat, or lean... 5:10, Much more accurate, instead of the screwdriver method, used.
Awesome guys!
Woohoo!
Run-on can be a result of higher compression. You can try a colder plug, or even putting in some Techron. If there were any carbon deposits on the pistons, the higher compression of your refurbished head may be creating hot spots. Another thing to try is higher octane fuel.
Fuel is a likely culprit. The gas station in town only has 87. We will have to try some better stuff once we venture out away from home.
when the valves are reseated, it happens quite frequently that the carburetors needs a readjustment, not an insulated case.
Noticed the Tenon Magazine T, awesome, I assume you are a hand tool guy, so am I, how fun to see you and your dad tag team this car... I'm reviewing your videos as I go through my search for my own TR4!
Jim, thanks for checking out our videos. Hopefully we can at least teach you what NOT to do when you find your TR!
I (Mark) enjoy restoring and working with hand tools. No expert here, but I find it almost therapeutic to unplug for a few hours and build something. No noisy machines or finger eaters. Dad, on the other hand, is all power, all the way! Haha
@@WegsGarage That’s a great combination between you and your dad that way. The thing I really like about hand tools is that you work at one RPM, power tools are 20,000 RPM and not forgiving! There’s something about making a shaving less than 0.001 inch and leave a surface that is accurate and smoother than you could with a machine or sandpaper. I have a hand plane addiction!!
Nice job, Sounds good! You have it so "tight" now, perhaps you need a colder plug. Since there is no glowing carbon deposits, might be a hot plug?
This video made my day! Great adventures to come for this sweet ride!
High fives! Enjoy.
Sounds great guys and it looks like a smooth pull on the road going thru the gears. On the run on after shut off, you don’t have a electric fuel pump by any chance? Can’t recall. Enjoy the hectic out of it before the snow arrives. Best part of it all the smile on your faces at the end. Doesn’t get any better than that. Cheers…
Nice job. I hope you can get a few more rides in before it gets too cold. It sounds great and seems to have clean exhaust. My original manual calls for an 850 RPM idle which is a little low unless the car is perfectly tuned up. Gauges should be from left to right Temp, Oil, Fuel, Amps. Also looks like you've got the fan knob on the choke cable. Those upper switches are Lights, Wipers, Washer, Choke. Have a great winter.
One item often overlooked that causes run-on is after a machine shop surfaces a TR head it will leave the shrouding in and around the combustion chamber much thinner which now makes the thinner shrouding act as a spark plug causing over-run and spark knock. If thats the case those thinner edges have to be trimmed back before installing the head. Since you just had a valve job, I suspect that the head was resurfaced at the same time. Always be ready to kill the engine by putting it in gear and releaseing the clutch to prevent damage to the engine after an ignition-cut. The engine will sometimes even try to run backwards if not stopped immediately. Since all of our TR's are now senior citizens its hard to tell in most cases how many times a head has been surfaced and how many thousands have been shaved off. There is a spec out there on how thick a new head is and where to measure it but at the time of this writing I could not find it. Good job getting your TR back on the road and for the excellent self-help videos, my son and I have shamelessly borrowed some of your great ideas when we were restoring our 1961 TR4!
Volvo cast iron heads have the same issue with run for exactly this reason. Hot spots can also cause detonation and knock, but can be improved by rounding all ridges and looking after combustion chamber flow. I always like to go over each combustion chamber and deburr after reconditioning at a shop.
Use Premium Gas to stop the run-on. Works for mine. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks, TJ! We will definitely try premium. Seems like the easiest solution.
Have you thought about your next project? You and your father have developed some first-rate restoration skills.
There have been lots of discussions about this topic lately. No decisions yet, but we are on the lookout!
WTG! Engine sounds great and seems to accelerate nicely. Regarding the "run-on" problem. Did you use the old spark plugs? The two that were in cylinders 3 & 4 may have deposits. I would try a new set of plugs. Good luck.
That run on condition is called dieseling and means that you need to run a higher octane fuel.
I must have missed a segment. How did you ever solve the over heating problem ? I have a red '66 TR4A that will get hot when climbing a steady grade for 5 to 8 miles ( im in the north East so there are lots of hills) on a hot day or sitting at idle for more than 5 minutes or so. Otherwise under normal running conditions it will stay fairly cool. I do not have an electric fan. All stock. I have tried electric fans on other British cars I have owned with absolutely no better results so trying to avoid going that route again. I am not mechanically inclined at all so I always appreciate the efforts of others showing their trials and tribulations. Have thought about getting a custom double core aluminum radiator but not sure if that would just be an expensive fail ?
My car has had the same run-on issues for thirty years. The problem is the gas we have available. Not high enough octane. I have always just stalled my engine out when turning it off. Foot on the brake, gear in second release the clutch as you turn the key off. I don’t even think about it it’s just automatic. If you mix in a half aviation fuel it will also stop it.
Sounds Great, do you have an owners manual? if you do look at the dash page I think you have the gauges mixed up. Mine will knock on 91 but is ok 93 octane
Sound good . Check spark plugs for heat if glazed could be a hot spot.is fuel mixture a bit weak? All you can do is what your doing start at plugs mixture,timing. Good luck but it looks great and sounds great a superb job for father and son👍
Yeah, others have pointed out the gauges too...oopsies 😂. Will get that sorted out... eventually. Definitely need to try some higher octane fuel. Thanks for the tip!
John, mixture could be a bit weak. Still learning how to tune mixture so maybe we are not quite there yet. It's a process!
You might try retarding the timing a little further to see if that helps with the run-on. This assumes the vacuum advance is working properly and allowing the advance to return fully at idle.
Premium gas would probably help, too. If the head was skimmed during the recent work, that may have increased compression a little. I agree about trying one step cooler plugs, too.
With the fresh work done one the engine, it's probably not carbon. After the head work, were there any burrs or sharp corners in the combustion chambers? If so, those can glow and cause an engine to "diesel" after it's been run for a while.
I must say, that air flow meter looks great for balancing the carbs. I have a little tool made just for the purpose, but it's a little fiddly to work with because it blocks too much of the flow.
1.
I can see in the movie, temperature is still significant too high. On a normal Road with let's say 60 - 80km/h the gauge should be right in the middle. If you get stuck, it might be as yours is normal, but comes down as soon as you hit the open road again. Not good.
2.
Run-on after turn off appears, if the sparks are too hot. Might come because the compression is good again. Try "colder" sparks, read Wokshop-manual and turn in the right sparks with the right temperature-coefficient.
3.
Does your TR has an Overdrive? Is it working?
Sounds a lot better but what’s up with the column switch on the right side is it upside down.
That's the overdrive switch. It would normally be up for disengaged, down for engaged. (There are also switches on the gearbox that prevent the OD from engaging in 1st gear, but allow it to operate in the other forward gears.)
Maybe it's the lever we're seeing is in the engaged position, but the OD isn't wired up to it yet. If there is even one installed... I don't recall if their car has one... there was a "blanked off" eustacion and no lever/switch on the non OD cars. TR4 with OD from the factory had an "O" suffix after the commission or VIN #. For example, the # for my TR4 is CT17602L without an O, so it didn't come with factory OD, although it now has one installed.
@@alanm.4298 Their TR4 has overdrive, see the earlier episodes on how they worked on it and reinstalled into the gearbox.
Good work guys, now to keep it in that great condition!!
I’m sure you figured it out by now. Bing watching the episodes. My money is on your electric fan turning into a generator when you shut off the ignition.
93 Octane ?
Regarding the run on. Looks like you are still running a little hot. My run on finally stopped when I got my 4 back to 70c.
My heat problem started when I put a new six blade pump in..go figure. New pump forced even more non cooled water into the cool start bypass loop. Restricted the hose with a 3/4 inch copper pipe fitters cap with 3/8 drilled hole.
Brought it back to a sweet 70C from a scary 90C. And no run on.
Did you stick with that plugged bypass port and holes on the thermo approach from an earlier vid??
Isn't run-on usually caused by carbon deposits? We all saw that you have a pretty clean there, so that wouldn't be the problem.
Could be that it's too lean I suppose.