Toyota is the biggest and most profitable auto manufacturer in the world. Build a good car and people will flock to it, as Americans did with GM back when they were reliable.
I am out of business now. However when I was 85% of the vehicles that came into the shop were dangerously low on oil and several thousand miles over due.
So true. Most Humans procrastinate more than they think they do. Now with 8k-10k oil change intervals....... I cant imagine how far some go. I would never buy any of these newer vehicles on the used market. EVER!!!! 3k-5k....... at the absolute most and transmission oil change ever 60k or so........ I have 3 cars.... Dodge Dakota, 3.9, Dodge Caravan 3.3, Jeep patriot 2.4....... All over 200k.. All original engines and transmissions..... all still run fine.
@@bradleyfarnham2951Thankfully not that bad on my Ecotec vehicles... My 2003 Saturn ION (2.2L Ecotec, Factory Interval Conventional - 6 months/6000 miles/OLM 6-8000 miles) ran mostly Full Synthetic for 20 years and Oil Analysis showed 6000 or the OLM was a good spot for an Oil change. Mind you this was Full Synthetic Before and After Dexos came out... Not what the Factory was expecting (Manual even calls out that it doesn't need Synthetic Oil) so I wouldn't be surprised if I had stuck with Conventional needing to stay in the 3-5K range. Even with Full Synthetic over the last few years it had begun burning Oil so even more proof I should have done 3-5K mile intervals from Day 1. For my 2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L Ecotec (Dexos 12 months/7500 miles) I and others "know" that 12 months is too long. 5000 miles is too long. (So the General advice given in this Video isn't a good fit for the 2010-2017 2.4L common in the Equinox/Terrain etc ) Heck the OLM at 50% may or may not be a good cutoff point... I've got excessive Oil Dilution these last two Cold Weather/"Winter" Seasons (5.3%/5.8%) after Changes between 3-8 months/3000 miles/OLM 56%)... While "Summer" was under the "Acceptable" 2% holding "stable" at 1.3%, sampled at 4 months/2000 miles and after 7 months/3500+ miles/OLM 56%. So basically everyone should realistically do what they can to a "baseline" for their vehicle. Don't overextend and if there are Consumption/level/Oil Condition Problems... Not to mention things like "Severe" Driving Conditions... It's probably best to start reducing the Intervals accordingly. Oil Analysis suggested 4-5K during "Summer" and with Winter... I'm unsure but I'll likely be testing at 2000 miles and changing before 3000 if I can't eliminate the issue completely
I spent years in the business, I don't care what the manufacturers claim. I have the oil changed on all my vehicles every 3k. No matter what every 3k. I also expect to get 300k out of them without major engine work.
Maybe, but I had some 3800s that became annoying - valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, coolant elbows - like every 10k miles it was leaking from somewhere new!
I had a 2013 Verano. I loved the car bc it was my first brand new car. However it had a thrash drivetrain. Burned so much freaking oil pretty much started at 25k and the dealer stated “that’s normal”. Transmission was laggy. Sold it at 99k miles and traded it for a Toyota Avalon, best car I’ve ever owned currently at 120k miles.
we had the same engine in the Equinox. After arguing with the dealer, at 90k miles I found a service bulletin that showed the pressure regulators were failing and oil would get diluted with gas. Dealer FINALLY replaced the engine under the powertrain warranty. 40K miles later, it started using oil like crazy again. Couldn't wait to get rid of that thing
Yesss I had a 14 with 285k it burnt oil so bad internally (not out the exhaust) that I had to switch to shell rosella t4 diesel oil to slow it down the transmission was WHACK lazy jerky clunky then dint get me started on the timing chain issues because of oil starvation I had changed so many oxygen sensors on that car and fuel pressure sensors and high pressure fuel pumps I only had the car for ten months and I’d buy one again…. If it was free
Wizard, love the new intro! Nice and short. I never understood why some of these TH-camrs have to have these long complex intros. It ain’t tv let’s just get into it. 😁
AND Buick knew exactly which plastic to make the headlights out of for our Rivieras, so why doesn't this car have it (not to mention our cornering lamps)?!?
@@marko7843 - I bought my Riv a year ago. I wondered why the headlight lenses looked clear as glass. I thought maybe the owner did something special or replaced them. You're saying it is typical for Riviera headlight lenses to never get cloudy like all the rest?
Yup Timing chains and hpfp. That Hp pump fails pumps fuel in oil, oil goes thin, hydraulic tensioners fail and timing chain fails. Yeah ive done lots of em
I put between 300-600 miles a night as a courier and I’m constantly changing that oil at 5k and all my other fluids at 50k but it pays off as I have 235k miles with only an alternator and a water pump replaced. Yea I did the belt and tension while there.
You probably didn't get a problematic model car either. The push to get better fuel economy gave us direct injection which no amount of maintenance can fix. The engineering best solution was to add a small amount of non direct injection as well. It also gave us turbo charged cars, no amount of maintenance can remove the extra destructive heat created. It also gave us weaker piston rings to lower friction, but that means burning more oil and quicker deposit buildup around the rings making it a cascading failure even with frequent oil changes. Maintenance sure helps, but sacrificing reliability for better fuel mileage is the primary issue.
Same reason you replace the throw out bearing when you replace the clutch. It's the same amount of labor to replace the bearing as it is the clutch. An extra $50 spent now eliminates a known future failure and another $1,500 repair bill.
On the other hand, we have engineers combining the slave cylinder with the throwout bearing... So if all you need is a $30 cylinder, normally bolted to the outside of the tranny, you now have to pull the whole thing apart.
We had our mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection on our 2010 HHR before we bought it and, he told us straight up. The car only had 86k on it, and had been very well maintained so, keep the oil changed at 3k-4k and check it often. Number one thing to longevity in these little engines is keep the oil clean and make sure it stays at the proper level. Everything inside of these Ecotec engines relies on oil pressure/condition . Luckily our has the port injected 2.2 so, no worries about anything like this.
none of the HHRs got the 2.4 version with Direct Injection. So a few of the issues the Wizard are talking about are not even applicable to your car (nor half of his list for that matter)
@@engineer_alvall the new especially four cylinder engines are pushed to the limit and cannot take any issues w oil or coolant or anything else as catastrophic failure is eminent
Back in 1990 I stuck to the every 3K/6 month oil change interval. Now with a RAV4 I do 4K/6 months. When I was “in warranty” when it was new I let the dealer do the by the book maintenance so it would be documented if I ever needed it but I still always stuck to my own interval. Over 200K miles now and it still runs smooth.
Yeah BUT some people don’t want to buy Japanese manufactured vehicles because then they would not “fit in” Remember: High school never ended for many people….
If a fuel problem develops 2000 miles after an oil change. It will only dilute the oil for 1000 miles, and hopefully will be caught at the oil change. If you change it every 6000. It will see 4000 miles of diluted oil, if it even makes it that far. I do 5000 on non-turbo and hybrid models.
I'm in the process of fixing oil pan and oil cooler leaks on a 1.4T Ecotec engine. Car has about 70k miles, and already had an oil pan leak before (judging by the wrench marks on the bolt heads), the turbo has been replaced too. Least to say, to fix those you have to tear half of the engine apart, between 8-10h labour. All because they decide to save a few cents on the gaskets.
That engine is a great example of how the ridiculous tightening of emission standards to go after just a fraction of a percent compared to 1965 has ruined modern engines... and BRAKES. Just wait until Joe & Kamala's latest "groundbreaking" rules go into effect.
Sell it! That 1.4L is absolutely terrible. You’ll be chasing coolant leaks forever. We have an elderly woman that has one and it literally gets towed in once a week
@brettconv83 I bought it cheap from the salvage auction thinking of flipping it, but the accident damage didn't take 1/3 of the time I'm spending fixing other things in the car. Not worth the time.
PCV clogging is a common issue. It might drive oil consumption. The PCV "orifice" is in the intake manifold and can be cleaned by removing the intake, per a GM service note. There is a "hack" to just drill into the intake and clear the "orifice" with a paper clip, then seal the hole with a short screw. There is a risk of cracking the intake and one can not confirm that the PCV orifice flows to all four intake runners (one can do that by removing the manifold and on the bench blowing some mild liquid into the "orifice". Also clogged PCV might be a driver for rear main seal blow outs. GM makes a vented oil cap for some of the 2.4L engines that might help prevent that...but might not.
That was an excellent and well informed presentation. My guess is that the customer thought he was saving money by not doing frequent oil changes. Guess he was wrong!
15 วันที่ผ่านมา +1
Might have happened even if they changed the oil, who knows?
I drove taxis for 6 years and we were mostly using Buicks and Chevys 9c1 Chevys Buick roadmasters unlimited the wagons the Chevy wagons! 5.7 l V8 engines! Boy those suckers took a beating .That's why I end up buying me a 1996 Buick Roadmaster state wagon collector's edition! All the problems with these '90s cars are figured out. They have forums all on the internet! My Buick Roadmaster wagon was rear-ended by a Sissy Transit bus! The fireman and policemen said if it was a new vehicle the rear end would be pushed in about 2 ft easy! The wagon is still kicking and blowing fire like a dragon lol!
i have a 2007 G6 with this engine and it has 162k miles and runs really well. i’ve kept up with oil changes the life of the car every 3k miles. at 162k now it did need a timing chain replacement and i’ve replaced the vvt solenoids as well. it still runs strong and is actually really peppy, still doesn’t burn any oil. changing the oil is a must
I replaced the timing components on my 2006 Grand Marquis around 280,000 miles. Now at 391,000 miles. I'm going to get well over 500,000 miles out of it. And I have a 2007 model I bought with 36,000 miles. I have added 9,000 highway miles since buying it, and have changed the oil three times.
@ oh so you also have a 2007 G6? i love mine but was a little surprised it needed a timing chain replacement at 160k miles but it has never burned oil and i’ve changed it every 3k for the past 18 yrs, so i guess the timing components last a different amount of time depending on the make/model
Several weeks ago I did this hi pressure pump replacement on a 13 Equinox for a friend. I examined the cam follower carefully and only saw a single faint line. I cleaned and reused it. No issue with VVT solenoids per my scanner. I also replaced the oil with Valvoline Restore and Protect. So far, oil level has not dropped after several hundred miles.
HPFPs can leak fuel into the oil too. I think GM redesigned that part. Sometimes a code will pop up, but tell tales could be oil that smells like gasoline or fuel trims.
Thanks Car Wizard!!!!!!!!!! You saved me tons of guesswork with my 2007 chevy cobalt. This video came out just when I needed it. by the way my cobalt has 298,00 km's on it and still going strong
Ditto to comments on timing chain and timing chain guides. Had a 2.4 with debris / shavings showing up the variable valve timing solenoid screen like the Verano in this video. It came from the timing chain and guide wear problem.
I have a 2022 Blazer with a 2.0 turbo EcoTec knowing that I would change it every 3,000-4,000 miles. The reminder tells me to change it at 5,000 miles and GM says 7,000 miles. Back in the earlier days of the EcoTec with the 2.2 in the Cavaliers and Cobalts and Ions and more, and the EcoPower by Saab at about the same time, they were pretty much indestructible but their oil change intervals were at 3,000 miles. The early 2.0 turbo's in the Saturn Sky/Pontiac Solstice, HHR/Cobalt SS, Fisker Karma and Saab 9-3's all suffered from head gaskets no matter what you do. But I know these later EcoTec engines and early ones that aren't aspirated can last awhile. Infact my father's 2013 Equinox with a 2.4 took a ton of abuse from his teenage son and his friends and the oil was changed every 5,000 miles, but that thing wouldn't die no matter how long it was held at 6900rpm before trading it for a 2025 TrailBlazer with a 1.3 turbo 3 cylinder. It did blow a rear main seal which is also common for these due to the PCV valve clogging up but again, changing the oil every 3,000 miles prevents that from happening. You just have to aim to change the oil every 3,000 miles which when you really think about it is a small price to pay for salvation compared to other manufacturers and their more catastrophic issues just from existing and what you should really be doing anyway. I fully expect my Blazer to reach 200,000 miles if I keep it that long with this method at least when it comes to the engine. If you plan to buy a used 2.4 or 2.0 EcoTec/EcoPower (Which is basically the same thing as Saab had a part in the design process dubbed the L850 series.) make sure you get a service history and see when they changed the oil. If they did it every 3,000-4,000 miles, you should be golden as long as you do the same. If not, walk away immediately and keep looking.
I had a 2.2 EcoTec in a 2002 Saturn L200. Bought it new, changed the oil every 3000 miles. Sold it 9 years later with 126k miles running perfect. I knew the person that bought the car for a girlfriend and in no short order she killed it. Probably never saw another oil change.
One year/3000 miles. I put about 2000 miles/year on my '14 981 Cayman S and about 2500 miles per year on my airport car, an '01 Subaru Outback LL Bean, and they get changed yearly. When I change the oil, it is brown but still translucent. That is because over time the frequent oil changes have removed any sludge that was in the engines when I bought them. That and they are both simply in good shape. Other items to change: Coolant, which I do on the Subaru every other year, and brake fluid, which really shouldn't see a fifth year on any car. Great video!
I have that car, give it highway driving and 5k on the oil changes. I check the oil at every fill up because i am afraid it will burn oil and run low, but at 100k miles it hasn’t happened yet. I suspect the engine gets a bad rap because people don’t maintain it.
Well that was a gen one small block Chevy 350 tried and true the same basic design since 1955 w out a lot of changes so yeah it may have been a little thirsty but as far as reliable goes there's not much more reliable than a first gen small block well it's possible that the L.S. based vortec gen 3 engine before they started using dod or displacement on demand where the lifters would fail and Eat the camshafts the gen 3 vortec did not have the dod and quite possibly were even more reliable and certainly easier to work on than the first gen small block because gm took fifty years of experience and put it into the L.S . Engine and added a lot of greatness to it I've seen gen 3 L.S . Engines with over 250 thousand miles on them that when disassembled were in pristine condition still crosshatch in the bores and the bearings looked like brand new from the factory also they added so much strength to the block and rigidity that they stay together even under extreme conditions and extreme abuse far more than the first gen could handle ..
@@markiangooley my father had a 1989 Firebird with a 305 up until about a year after I was born. For some reason he intentionally tried to blow this car up because he wanted to get a minivan after having kids and he just couldn't do it. No matter how hard he tried within reason, he just couldn't do it. He then traded that Firebird for a 2002 Chrysler Voyager which was a mistake, but that Firebird was pretty much indestructible.
I had a 2013 verano with this same engine. got 224k miles out of it before I traded it in. It was starting to have big time electric issues. couldn't take it thru a full service car wash without the traction control freaking out and de-rating engine power! I was also getting the fuel pump error codes too
I do my own oil changes myself, with the best oil and filter, always full synthetic, always on time, even though most of my driving is highway drive and my engine doesn't have a turbo.
My oil changes on my 2002 Taurus with a 3.0 run around $80. No complaints. The mechanic uses nothing but the best NAPA offers and gives my car a careful once over looking for other problems. I'm a very senior citizen and don't want car problems. My Dad always said, "Grease is cheaper than machinery". I once had a Regal with a 3.8 at Jiffy Lube and ended up in the pit showing the kid where the oil filter was located. I didn't get upset; I understand places like that have staffing problems with few young people who overhauled a John Deere in a hay field with a crescent wrench and a screwdriver.
Even that list is incomplete on the list of cars that use that 2.4 engine. However, some of those cars have that engine WITHOUT direct injection and are actually decent engines, like the Cobalt, G5, and older malibus.
When I make things other people problems and drop them off to the shop to fix I usually give a general description of what is wrong in case I am missing an obvious easy thing. Things like it makes a sound when I do this. If after their estimate I feel they are not on the right path I elaborate. You know after thinking about it check the U joint, or whatever that’s a little closer to what I suspect to guide them in.
Modern engines require oil changes every 5,000 miles. Modern engines are a lot more complex and are built to a lot higher tolerance than engines 20+ years ago and thats why they need clean, lightweight oil. Car manufacturers might say its ok to wait longer but thats because the warranty is only good for 4 or 5 years or 60-80k miles and after that you're on your own.
Some of those earlier cars (HHR, Cobalt, G5, Solstice, maybe others) had the port injected 2.4, not DI. The 2.0 turbo on the high performance variants were all DI.
I work for a security company that drives Nissan Rogue 3 cylinder turbos. We have one person maintaining well over 200 cars, maybe 300. Needless to say if we don't take it in for an oil change it doesn't get done. We've gone over 10,000 miles overdue. Cars are being driven into the ground.
i have a G6 with that engine too and mine is actually very peppy and responsive. it’s noisy but still in good shape with 162k miles and a recent timing chain replacement, and doesn’t burn oil and never has
Car wizard is incorrect. The G6 has the LE5 2.4L which doesn't have direct injection (could have the VVT issue with the solenoid though). The HPFP and direct injection is the newer 2.4L engines (LAF).
Good information, thank you. That will be very helpful to me since my 2017 GMC Terrain also has the 2.4L. However, the first 7 models you listed ( 1:36 ) have the previous generation 2.4L that has port fuel injection (i.e., not direct injection). All of those 7 models except the Saturn Aura did, however, have an available direct-injected, turbo 2.0L engine.
I ALMOST bought an identical Buick Verano, I was choosing between it and a 2014 Mazda 3. I'm SO glad I went with the Mazda it's been the best vehicle I've ever owned. 10 years trouble free and still runs like a dream!
A lot of good information. Back in the 70’s I managed a service station for a retirement home and they also had a fleet of vehicles, everything from several leased buses to older Plymouth station wagons for landscaping. They had just purchased 8 1977 Caprice for taxi use. It was the start of a lot of electronic control systems. I asked for training and tools but was told no. I could see the writing on the wall and started looking for a different job. Ended up moving and going into a dealership parts department. Second note. I’ve owned two diesel trucks, a 7.3 and now the 6.7. With the issue of the 6.7 and the high pressure fuel pump. A neighbor worked at Ford dealership and now teaches at a college. His suggestion match’s yours, stay up on the oil changes, more often the better. Mine’s a 2013 and they don’t seam to have as many failures. I have started using a fuel additive at 100,000 miles.
been using a 2009 cobalt as a commuter since 2011. Other than timing chain going out around 110k miles, really no issues. Like others have said here, i stay on top of oil changes religiously and assume thats the main factor.
@@BrockOBauma When the screen name matches the IQ of the poster. Say it with me: the service interval of the timing chain is 90k miles per the owner's manual. It failing at 110k miles, assuming it wasn't serviced, is... like... what you'd expect it to do. I do like how he's living in your pipsqueak "brain" some 13 years later, though.
@tim3172 how tf is it ok that the timing chain needs to be swapped every 90k? Unacceptable. Timing BELTS need to be changed and are easily serviceable.
I enjoy changing oil myself. Just put the ramps at the front wheels and drive up, drain the oil, replace the filter with best product, fill oil with best product. Look at everything top and bottom.
Had a 2009 HHR with a 5spd stick, replaced the synthetic oil every 5K. Ran like a top. I did have the solenoid fail at 80K+ miles but was replaced under warranty as at that time GM had a 100K mile powertrain warranty. Other than that it was a durable tough little lunch box that I put 160K hard miles on it and then I gave it to my niece and she put another 20K on it until her cousin backed into totaling it.. It was ugly.. but it was reliable.
Half the models you mentioned don't use the direct injected 2.4L engine which wasn't used until the 2010 model year. The older, non-DI engines are a completely different animal and far more reliable.
Any engine with VVT solenoids needs a Seafoam treatment in the crankcase to flush out the dirty oil. After only two treatments, my Ecotec 2.4L with over 180K miles, and now at 2700 miles on the current oil, and that oil is still very clean. I also recommend switching to a DEXOS 1 Gen 3 rated oil. I just did this, and my oil consumption has dropped.
I own a Buick Regal with 2.0 Ecotec with a 6 speed manual. That car is the Opel (or Vauxhall) Insignia built in Germany and was a smash hit in Europe; it was awarded car of year in 2009. Note: the Ecotec 2.0 engine is a update of the Saab 4 cylinder engine that was used for decades... so it has a long record of reliability. OK, perhaps it's a bit finicky, parts can be expensive, and working on it can be bit labor intensive like many Euro design cars. Oh, and I will say the normal operation of this engine is definitely noisy with a lot of clicks and clanks LOL. All in all it's a cool underrated car. The Verano shown in the video is bit less interesting though.
Another excellent, revealing video of the auto industries intentional design discrepancies that take advantage of the consumer under the guise of saving fuel, the planet, money, and other abstract, hypothetical reasons. I want to apologize to you and Mrs. Wizard for making an inconsiderate comment recently regarding your desire to abbreviate the format of your videos. If you and your wife determine a shorter format is required to attract more viewers, so be it, I wish you well with your endeavors. Regardless, every one of your premium videos speaks the candid, technical truth combined with a good dose of humor for levity. I have always gravitated towards technical analysis, scan tool applications with o-scope diagnosis. Your videos never skimp on rich, useful content that educates the public and hopefully keeps them from avoiding the pitfalls of gross negligence and incompetence that plagues the auto repair industry. Thank you, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!
Last month I replaced the PCV valve on my Tahoe. Nothing wrong with the original, just figured after 25 (that’s Twenty Five) years it was due. Chevrolet is not what it used to be.
I know that carquest or whoever Mr. Wizard uses is more expensive than parts on Rockauto, but I did the exact same order on Rockauto selecting only genuine gm parts and selected Fedex early am next day shipping(most expensive shipping ($86.99). The total came out to $411.15 plus tax so around $450 depending on where you live. I feel the Wizard should change parts suppliers. It would be interesting to do the order on carquest since I think that is what he uses or used to use according to his videos to see how much it costs on their website.
I own a 2011 Jeep compass and it has gone strong over 180,000 miles and it still runs well. I have kept up on all maintenance and I do believe that is the reason it has gone that long. I haver heard time and time again that death of engines usually are caused by failed maintenance.
There is a website that tests motor oils and similar products, and they found that oil tends to lose viscosity under use, and one of the things that causes the viscosity loss is things such as timing chains grinding up the oil. The viscosity loss is a major contributor of engine wear and parts failure. Most of the newer vehicles have timing chains and other features that contribute to that viscosity breakdown, more so than simpler engines of the past. I use the calculator that is built into my Chevy’s computer, but instead of changing oil at 0% I change oil when it’s on 40% to 50%. That usually happens at 3,000 to 4,000 miles. I Hope it helps, because I have one of those famous 3.6 liter engines.
I've done that with our Acuras since day 1. At 40-50 % I change the oil, which is usually around 5000 miles. I've only used Mobil 1 and their filter. 186k miles on the Honda 3.5 V6 and 132k miles on their 2.4 KA 4 cylinder. I've had the dealer do the timing belt twice on the V6 (90k mile intervals). The 2.4 has a chain. Knock on wood, both are still going.
my verano i just replaced my exaust solonoid at 120km....my o2 sensor just went....thanks to this video i now know to expect that high pressure fuel pump is next....thanks wizard!!
Your 2.4 was the LE5 port injected engine, these issues apply only to the direct injected engines - the HHR SS has a 2.0 liter version of that (the LNF)
I've dealt with bad service sales people who heard me say oil cooler leak but told the tech intercooler leak. Same person asked me if i have a warranty when my car was 3 years old and 30k miles. Im like yeah the manufacture's warranty that you know i haveThat person was promoted to service Manger.
I work at a gm dealer and I see a lot of the eco tec poop come in. A lot of stupid stuff, people lack oil change intervals so timing chains get stretched frequently. High pressure fuel Pumps going bad and injecting gas into the oil a lot
This engine is known as the L850 engine; and they are also infamous for excessive oil consumption. I tell customers to go by the old school 3,000 mile/3 month interval because like you said this engine DOES NOT TOLERATE ANY maintenance negligence PERIOD. Another mechanic TH-camr (Rob the Mechanic) actually calculated how much oil there would be if you followed the GM oil life monitor with the “acceptable” amount of oil consumption from GM and by the time the car says to change the oil with, he found out the engine would be basically bone dry because the engine consumed it all!
Hope you don't mind me asking you the following question, @digitalrailroader - are you familiar with the Theta II 4-cylinder engines used in a lot of Hyundais and Kias from the 2010s? I have a 2.4-liter Theta II in my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport (2WD). Currently has 62k miles on it. My father was the original owner and changed the oil every 5,000 miles using only synthetic. Should I stick with the 5,000 mile interval or go down to 3,000 miles?
What I think is happening to many people who take their car in for a problem and they think they know what's wrong: they bought a BT code reader off of Amazon. They mave have the raw information, but lack the experience to properly diagnose the fault. The Dunning-Kruger Effect, in the age of the cell phone.
I suppose you might be right, but, it is way cheaper to grab the codes, google them, grab some parts and try them versus bringing your car to damn near any mechanic or heaven forbid dealer, pay them to “diagnose” your car, mark up the parts and wallop you on labor. If the guy who brought this car into the wizard would have done that, he would have found the same thing the shop did, and saved a little. And, the wizard is actually an honest mechanic, but it still would have been cheaper to diy.
@jltsoyowdycjltsoyowdyc1076 Sure DIY is cheaper. If you have the skill. But any internet commando can buy a scanner and try to tell a shop what's wrong. The very thing Wizard is warning against.
When it first appeared Direct Injection seemed like a good idea. My last few years as a tech I saw that it caused lot's of problems such as high carbon deposits in the engine, Boost pumps that failed causing particles to get into the crankcase. It also seems that the high pressure injector acts as a water pick washing the oil on the cylinder wall. They might have developed this idea a bit more before applying it.
My 2011 HHR runs like a steel top. Very little maintenance required in the 8 year owned engine wise. Exhaust and a hub was replaced. But pretty much started every fricken day. I'm letting my friend borrow it currently because his Subaru blew a head gasket. I paid $3200 in 2017. And it still runs fine for local use. No long drives over 600 miles would be advised just in case. But for a 4 banger it's pretty cheap to run 😮😂😅😊😊😊
I had a 2011 Chevy Equinox with the 2.4L engine, and I think I changed the exhaust cam solenoid maybe 5 times with the original ACDelco parts. And I was changing oil every 5k miles or less with Mobil 1 Dexos oil, and still. My high-pressure fuel pump never failed, and when I sold the truck it had 150k miles.
Car wizard, may I say your program is just brilliant , I watch it in the UK regularly, I have a question we have a very stringent MOT test in the UK, why in the states has this not been taken up to ensure safe driving and that a second hand car sold gives to some degree a element of assurance that it will not be a total rust bucket. Thanks again not sure if you watch the program BBC The Repair Shop , but I deal with the electronics on the program, regards Mark Stuckey
Freedom! Freedom! Freedom! 50 different states with 50 different laws and standards for motor vehicles. No one impinges on my freedom! to drive a rust bucket on the road No sirree!
So some states have inspection procedures, but even then it can depend on the county or city within a state. In NY it's a 2 part yearly inspection with one part being a safety inspection (for all cars regardless of age), and the other part is an OBDII inspection for emissions (only applies to cars between 2-25 years old), and any check engine light will fail even if it's super trivial unfortunately (I call small evap leaks the code of death once the simple stuff has been done).
Just replace the oil with Full Synthetic as recommended (Dexos spec) every 5,000mi and you won’t have this problem. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. And keep the oil level full.
Owned a 2012 Equinox with the 2.4. The previous owner neglected that car. I changed the oil myself every 5k miles, with Mobil 1 full synthetic. I swear, I replaced the intake and exhaust solenoids so many times. That was easily the worst car I’ve ever owned.
I have a 2014 Buick Regal GS. With the turbo LTG engine. Kept up on oil changes and only used Mobil1 or valvoline full synthetic. Car now has over 250k miles. Very little in the way of problems. DO YOUR OIL CHANGES.
I always change my oil 3 to 3.5 K miles. I use Motorcraft semi-blend and Castrol ultimate full synthetic 5-30 weight and new premium oil filter. DO the work myself and NO PROBLEMS. Changing fluids is the cheapest way for LONGEVITY. 😀😀😀😀
It's not the solenoids. Either low oil or every 100k miles the timing chain and cam phasers need to be replaced. I am at 225k miles with that engine. Typically timing guides blow apart every 125k miles like clockwork too. If you don't plan on doing oil changes every 5k miles and timing chains + phasers every 100k miles, that is definitely not an engine for you.
Replace the sensors twice on my 2014 verano first time had all kinds of camshaft codes, second time had similar camshaft codes nothing to do with the oil pressure sensor replaced myself for about a hundred bucks from RockAuto for both some years back after COVID. The first time cost me quite a bit because I had to get a diagnosed
i like the new introduction i was also wondering any updates on the old bus motor home you were working on and finding parts to fix the steering i really like the bus conversions it’s interesting what can be done with an old bus
It's winter. It's entirely possible he might either be waiting on parts, or he might be waiting on warmer weather to resume working on it. Or the shop might be busy with cars.
Cool video, but with so many hits found on your database from those specific engine codes, I bet a cheap scan tool, a quick google search and a few bucks in aftermarket parts would be the logical DIY move here. Remember, the people who actually watch these types of videos, are not the type of people who skip oil changes by much. And, we are also the type of people who know honest mechanics are few and far between. So we will only bring a car to a mechanic as a very last resort. Swapping those parts looks way easier than most of the things we have to deal with. Also, being such an easy job, trying some Amazon parts here makes sense IMO, I mean, I would check the reviews first, but I would definitely look for cheaper alternatives.
I absolutely hate direct injection. The minimal benefits are not anywhere close to worth it when compared to the cost to repair and maintain direct injection
I grew up living religiously with changing the oil every 3,000 miles. I've been changing the oil on my cars, myself, for 40 years now. It really isn't difficult. It isn't too messy either. What I have gotten lazy on are tire rotations. At least I still check the tire pressures every week.
it used to be 2 to 3,00 miles for a oil change so by 5,000 miles you have already skipped one oil change already. i think 3500 miles is more realistic unless you make 3 or 4 hour trips at highway speed, then 5000 is more appropriate.
I change my oil on 14 ATS 2.0t every 5k and I use only amsoil signature series and amsoil filter. In @ 107k now and the car runs like a champ. Tuned for e50 full bolt on making 330 wheel hp.
Yeah my gf had a 2016 Equinox RECENTLY and she had MAJOR issues with oil consumption. The rear main seal went out and that engine that had less than 100k took the A train out of there 😢
Hi Wizard and C0. It seems changing parts that are a problem in the future is good practise, but then the customer questions why. WHY, because I don't want you back here in a while when that part that you questioned why I replaced it while I was elbow deep in the engine fails.
Well I used to own a Solstice and now I drive a Benz. I had to pay $3,600 to fix the Benz, I would have been better off with a $1,000 repair on the Solstice.
As the Wizard demonstrates it's crucial to replace all ancillary devices related to the failed parts. However that won't keep the other parts of a non-maintained vehicle from failing in a few days or weeks. You never know when the Hodge-Podge modulator will detonate and take out the flambickle diversion switch. Thankfully that doesn't happen too often.
It seems that after decades of increasing reliability, it has been determined that reliability is not as profitable as unreliability.
Something called planned obsolescence, look it up.
Pass on the costs of improving fuel efficiency with Direct Injection to the customer while retaining your 1990s designed engine family.
Sacrifice reliability to get better fuel economy on the (relatively) cheap, and keep the government regulators off your back, is my guess.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 No need, it's in the name.
Toyota is the biggest and most profitable auto manufacturer in the world. Build a good car and people will flock to it, as Americans did with GM back when they were reliable.
I am out of business now. However when I was 85% of the vehicles that came into the shop were dangerously low on oil and several thousand miles over due.
If you don’t mind me asking, are you out of business because of retirement or another reason?
So true. Most Humans procrastinate more than they think they do. Now with 8k-10k oil change intervals....... I cant imagine how far some go. I would never buy any of these newer vehicles on the used market. EVER!!!!
3k-5k....... at the absolute most and transmission oil change ever 60k or so........ I have 3 cars.... Dodge Dakota, 3.9, Dodge Caravan 3.3, Jeep patriot 2.4....... All over 200k.. All original engines and transmissions..... all still run fine.
I've seen these consume 4qrts in 5000 miles of oil
@@bradleyfarnham2951Thankfully not that bad on my Ecotec vehicles... My 2003 Saturn ION (2.2L Ecotec, Factory Interval Conventional - 6 months/6000 miles/OLM 6-8000 miles) ran mostly Full Synthetic for 20 years and Oil Analysis showed 6000 or the OLM was a good spot for an Oil change. Mind you this was Full Synthetic Before and After Dexos came out... Not what the Factory was expecting (Manual even calls out that it doesn't need Synthetic Oil) so I wouldn't be surprised if I had stuck with Conventional needing to stay in the 3-5K range.
Even with Full Synthetic over the last few years it had begun burning Oil so even more proof I should have done 3-5K mile intervals from Day 1.
For my 2014 GMC Terrain 2.4L Ecotec (Dexos 12 months/7500 miles) I and others "know" that 12 months is too long. 5000 miles is too long. (So the General advice given in this Video isn't a good fit for the 2010-2017 2.4L common in the Equinox/Terrain etc )
Heck the OLM at 50% may or may not be a good cutoff point... I've got excessive Oil Dilution these last two Cold Weather/"Winter" Seasons (5.3%/5.8%) after Changes between 3-8 months/3000 miles/OLM 56%)... While "Summer" was under the "Acceptable" 2% holding "stable" at 1.3%, sampled at 4 months/2000 miles and after 7 months/3500+ miles/OLM 56%.
So basically everyone should realistically do what they can to a "baseline" for their vehicle. Don't overextend and if there are Consumption/level/Oil Condition Problems... Not to mention things like "Severe" Driving Conditions... It's probably best to start reducing the Intervals accordingly.
Oil Analysis suggested 4-5K during "Summer" and with Winter... I'm unsure but I'll likely be testing at 2000 miles and changing before 3000 if I can't eliminate the issue completely
I spent years in the business, I don't care what the manufacturers claim. I have the oil changed on all my vehicles every 3k. No matter what every 3k. I also expect to get 300k out of them without major engine work.
Proof that Buick died when the 3.8L died.
Very true that 3800 series 11 was legendary and a beast.
That time when GM made a Toyota engine😂
I used to make fun of those cars because of how "playskool" the interiors looked, but I'd totally buy a 3.8 GM car as my first GM vehicle.
Maybe, but I had some 3800s that became annoying - valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, coolant elbows - like every 10k miles it was leaking from somewhere new!
Ah yes. The Chevrolet 3.8L was very Buick.
Btw the early Gen was Buick. Hasn’t been a Buick for 30 years.
I had a 2013 Verano. I loved the car bc it was my first brand new car. However it had a thrash drivetrain. Burned so much freaking oil pretty much started at 25k and the dealer stated “that’s normal”. Transmission was laggy. Sold it at 99k miles and traded it for a Toyota Avalon, best car I’ve ever owned currently at 120k miles.
we had the same engine in the Equinox. After arguing with the dealer, at 90k miles I found a service bulletin that showed the pressure regulators were failing and oil would get diluted with gas. Dealer FINALLY replaced the engine under the powertrain warranty. 40K miles later, it started using oil like crazy again. Couldn't wait to get rid of that thing
Yesss I had a 14 with 285k it burnt oil so bad internally (not out the exhaust) that I had to switch to shell rosella t4 diesel oil to slow it down the transmission was WHACK lazy jerky clunky then dint get me started on the timing chain issues because of oil starvation I had changed so many oxygen sensors on that car and fuel pressure sensors and high pressure fuel pumps I only had the car for ten months and I’d buy one again…. If it was free
I had a Co-worker with a Verano and her did that too. She traded it for a Honda CRV and hasnt looked back.
I own one it’s an oil burner GM makes nothing but junk.
Smart man!
Wizard, love the new intro! Nice and short. I never understood why some of these TH-camrs have to have these long complex intros. It ain’t tv let’s just get into it. 😁
but they want to show off like look what I can do with my video editing skills💪
@ lol. I’m sure that’s part of it but I always fast forward thru it anyway.
I agree why do I have to surrender two or more minutes on idiocy . Get to the point or at least the topic asap.
Breaks my heart you say Buick and problems in same sentence
Still driving my 98 Riv
I just bought a '97 LeSabre with 125k miles.
97 Riv here!
Hang on to it!
AND Buick knew exactly which plastic to make the headlights out of for our Rivieras, so why doesn't this car have it (not to mention our cornering lamps)?!?
@@marko7843 - I bought my Riv a year ago. I wondered why the headlight lenses looked clear as glass. I thought maybe the owner did something special or replaced them. You're saying it is typical for Riviera headlight lenses to never get cloudy like all the rest?
Yup Timing chains and hpfp. That Hp pump fails pumps fuel in oil, oil goes thin, hydraulic tensioners fail and timing chain fails. Yeah ive done lots of em
I put between 300-600 miles a night as a courier and I’m constantly changing that oil at 5k and all my other fluids at 50k but it pays off as I have 235k miles with only an alternator and a water pump replaced. Yea I did the belt and tension while there.
It’s a chain
Please change the oil earlier like 4k miles.
@@fredbarnes196 serpentine belt and tensioner.
@@littlejefe494 with premium full synthetic and long miles?
@@NoName-tz5ji no keep at 5k thats just fine. jefe dumb
I’m a maintenance freak….I’m convinced that most car “issues” are end user caused and not the cars problem.
Absolutely! People just put gas in the car and drive.
You probably didn't get a problematic model car either. The push to get better fuel economy gave us direct injection which no amount of maintenance can fix. The engineering best solution was to add a small amount of non direct injection as well. It also gave us turbo charged cars, no amount of maintenance can remove the extra destructive heat created.
It also gave us weaker piston rings to lower friction, but that means burning more oil and quicker deposit buildup around the rings making it a cascading failure even with frequent oil changes.
Maintenance sure helps, but sacrificing reliability for better fuel mileage is the primary issue.
My brother owns an 06 camry 4 cylinder late oil changes and he's swapped the trans oil once he's at 318,000
Same reason you replace the throw out bearing when you replace the clutch. It's the same amount of labor to replace the bearing as it is the clutch. An extra $50 spent now eliminates a known future failure and another $1,500 repair bill.
On the other hand, we have engineers combining the slave cylinder with the throwout bearing... So if all you need is a $30 cylinder, normally bolted to the outside of the tranny, you now have to pull the whole thing apart.
We had our mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection on our 2010 HHR before we bought it and, he told us straight up. The car only had 86k on it, and had been very well maintained so, keep the oil changed at 3k-4k and check it often. Number one thing to longevity in these little engines is keep the oil clean and make sure it stays at the proper level. Everything inside of these Ecotec engines relies on oil pressure/condition . Luckily our has the port injected 2.2 so, no worries about anything like this.
none of the HHRs got the 2.4 version with Direct Injection. So a few of the issues the Wizard are talking about are not even applicable to your car (nor half of his list for that matter)
@@engineer_alvall the new especially four cylinder engines are pushed to the limit and cannot take any issues w oil or coolant or anything else as catastrophic failure is eminent
Back in 1990 I stuck to the every 3K/6 month oil change interval. Now with a RAV4 I do 4K/6 months. When I was “in warranty” when it was new I let the dealer do the by the book maintenance so it would be documented if I ever needed it but I still always stuck to my own interval. Over 200K miles now and it still runs smooth.
Yeah BUT some people don’t want to buy Japanese manufactured vehicles because then they would not “fit in”
Remember: High school never ended for many people….
I have a 2013 Buick Regal with the 2.0 turbo, I change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles with Mobil1 5w30 full synthetic.
Not needed with premium synthetic oil. Waste of money.
If a fuel problem develops 2000 miles after an oil change. It will only dilute the oil for 1000 miles, and hopefully will be caught at the oil change. If you change it every 6000. It will see 4000 miles of diluted oil, if it even makes it that far. I do 5000 on non-turbo and hybrid models.
I'm in the process of fixing oil pan and oil cooler leaks on a 1.4T Ecotec engine. Car has about 70k miles, and already had an oil pan leak before (judging by the wrench marks on the bolt heads), the turbo has been replaced too. Least to say, to fix those you have to tear half of the engine apart, between 8-10h labour. All because they decide to save a few cents on the gaskets.
That engine is a great example of how the ridiculous tightening of emission standards to go after just a fraction of a percent compared to 1965 has ruined modern engines... and BRAKES. Just wait until Joe & Kamala's latest "groundbreaking" rules go into effect.
Sell it! That 1.4L is absolutely terrible. You’ll be chasing coolant leaks forever. We have an elderly woman that has one and it literally gets towed in once a week
@brettconv83 I bought it cheap from the salvage auction thinking of flipping it, but the accident damage didn't take 1/3 of the time I'm spending fixing other things in the car. Not worth the time.
PCV clogging is a common issue. It might drive oil consumption. The PCV "orifice" is in the intake manifold and can be cleaned by removing the intake, per a GM service note. There is a "hack" to just drill into the intake and clear the "orifice" with a paper clip, then seal the hole with a short screw. There is a risk of cracking the intake and one can not confirm that the PCV orifice flows to all four intake runners (one can do that by removing the manifold and on the bench blowing some mild liquid into the "orifice".
Also clogged PCV might be a driver for rear main seal blow outs. GM makes a vented oil cap for some of the 2.4L engines that might help prevent that...but might not.
That was an excellent and well informed presentation. My guess is that the customer thought he was saving money by not doing frequent oil changes. Guess he was wrong!
Might have happened even if they changed the oil, who knows?
"well informed"
I drove taxis for 6 years and we were mostly using Buicks and Chevys 9c1 Chevys Buick roadmasters unlimited the wagons the Chevy wagons! 5.7 l V8 engines! Boy those suckers took a beating .That's why I end up buying me a 1996 Buick Roadmaster state wagon collector's edition! All the problems with these '90s cars are figured out. They have forums all on the internet! My Buick Roadmaster wagon was rear-ended by a Sissy Transit bus! The fireman and policemen said if it was a new vehicle the rear end would be pushed in about 2 ft easy! The wagon is still kicking and blowing fire like a dragon lol!
i have a 2007 G6 with this engine and it has 162k miles and runs really well. i’ve kept up with oil changes the life of the car every 3k miles. at 162k now it did need a timing chain replacement and i’ve replaced the vvt solenoids as well. it still runs strong and is actually really peppy, still doesn’t burn any oil. changing the oil is a must
I replaced the timing components on my 2006 Grand Marquis around 280,000 miles. Now at 391,000 miles. I'm going to get well over 500,000 miles out of it. And I have a 2007 model I bought with 36,000 miles. I have added 9,000 highway miles since buying it, and have changed the oil three times.
@ oh so you also have a 2007 G6? i love mine but was a little surprised it needed a timing chain replacement at 160k miles but it has never burned oil and i’ve changed it every 3k for the past 18 yrs, so i guess the timing components last a different amount of time depending on the make/model
@@lucasjs1207 I believe that your timing chain has a recommendation from GM to be changed at 150,000 miles anyway.
Several weeks ago I did this hi pressure pump replacement on a 13 Equinox for a friend. I examined the cam follower carefully and only saw a single faint line. I cleaned and reused it. No issue with VVT solenoids per my scanner. I also replaced the oil with Valvoline Restore and Protect. So far, oil level has not dropped after several hundred miles.
All that work on such an awful vehicle
HPFPs can leak fuel into the oil too. I think GM redesigned that part. Sometimes a code will pop up, but tell tales could be oil that smells like gasoline or fuel trims.
Thanks Car Wizard!!!!!!!!!! You saved me tons of guesswork with my 2007 chevy cobalt. This video came out just when I needed it. by the way my cobalt has 298,00 km's on it and still going strong
Ditto to comments on timing chain and timing chain guides. Had a 2.4 with debris / shavings showing up the variable valve timing solenoid screen like the Verano in this video. It came from the timing chain and guide wear problem.
I have a 2022 Blazer with a 2.0 turbo EcoTec knowing that I would change it every 3,000-4,000 miles. The reminder tells me to change it at 5,000 miles and GM says 7,000 miles. Back in the earlier days of the EcoTec with the 2.2 in the Cavaliers and Cobalts and Ions and more, and the EcoPower by Saab at about the same time, they were pretty much indestructible but their oil change intervals were at 3,000 miles. The early 2.0 turbo's in the Saturn Sky/Pontiac Solstice, HHR/Cobalt SS, Fisker Karma and Saab 9-3's all suffered from head gaskets no matter what you do. But I know these later EcoTec engines and early ones that aren't aspirated can last awhile. Infact my father's 2013 Equinox with a 2.4 took a ton of abuse from his teenage son and his friends and the oil was changed every 5,000 miles, but that thing wouldn't die no matter how long it was held at 6900rpm before trading it for a 2025 TrailBlazer with a 1.3 turbo 3 cylinder. It did blow a rear main seal which is also common for these due to the PCV valve clogging up but again, changing the oil every 3,000 miles prevents that from happening. You just have to aim to change the oil every 3,000 miles which when you really think about it is a small price to pay for salvation compared to other manufacturers and their more catastrophic issues just from existing and what you should really be doing anyway. I fully expect my Blazer to reach 200,000 miles if I keep it that long with this method at least when it comes to the engine. If you plan to buy a used 2.4 or 2.0 EcoTec/EcoPower (Which is basically the same thing as Saab had a part in the design process dubbed the L850 series.) make sure you get a service history and see when they changed the oil. If they did it every 3,000-4,000 miles, you should be golden as long as you do the same. If not, walk away immediately and keep looking.
Chevy and all are garbage today
All
And I mean the the new stuff . Good times are older
@stravis3269 Not if you know what you're looking at.
I had a 2.2 EcoTec in a 2002 Saturn L200. Bought it new, changed the oil every 3000 miles. Sold it 9 years later with 126k miles running perfect. I knew the person that bought the car for a girlfriend and in no short order she killed it. Probably never saw another oil change.
@@LongIslandMopars That's very disappointing. I love L100/L200's. Happens way too much.
@@C1XX_TurboBlazer it was my first new car. Drove great, very comfortable, excellent gas mileage.
One year/3000 miles. I put about 2000 miles/year on my '14 981 Cayman S and about 2500 miles per year on my airport car, an '01 Subaru Outback LL Bean, and they get changed yearly. When I change the oil, it is brown but still translucent. That is because over time the frequent oil changes have removed any sludge that was in the engines when I bought them. That and they are both simply in good shape.
Other items to change: Coolant, which I do on the Subaru every other year, and brake fluid, which really shouldn't see a fifth year on any car.
Great video!
I have that car, give it highway driving and 5k on the oil changes. I check the oil at every fill up because i am afraid it will burn oil and run low, but at 100k miles it hasn’t happened yet. I suspect the engine gets a bad rap because people don’t maintain it.
My last GM had a TBI 5.7-liter engine. Totaled it in 2001. Very thirsty but a reliable engine.
Well that was a gen one small block Chevy 350 tried and true the same basic design since 1955 w out a lot of changes so yeah it may have been a little thirsty but as far as reliable goes there's not much more reliable than a first gen small block well it's possible that the L.S. based vortec gen 3 engine before they started using dod or displacement on demand where the lifters would fail and Eat the camshafts the gen 3 vortec did not have the dod and quite possibly were even more reliable and certainly easier to work on than the first gen small block because gm took fifty years of experience and put it into the L.S . Engine and added a lot of greatness to it I've seen gen 3 L.S . Engines with over 250 thousand miles on them that when disassembled were in pristine condition still crosshatch in the bores and the bearings looked like brand new from the factory also they added so much strength to the block and rigidity that they stay together even under extreme conditions and extreme abuse far more than the first gen could handle ..
My 95 5.7 tbi has 280k miles on it. Running strong
@@markiangooley my father had a 1989 Firebird with a 305 up until about a year after I was born. For some reason he intentionally tried to blow this car up because he wanted to get a minivan after having kids and he just couldn't do it. No matter how hard he tried within reason, he just couldn't do it. He then traded that Firebird for a 2002 Chrysler Voyager which was a mistake, but that Firebird was pretty much indestructible.
I had a 2013 verano with this same engine. got 224k miles out of it before I traded it in. It was starting to have big time electric issues. couldn't take it thru a full service car wash without the traction control freaking out and de-rating engine power! I was also getting the fuel pump error codes too
I do my own oil changes myself, with the best oil and filter, always full synthetic, always on time, even though most of my driving is highway drive and my engine doesn't have a turbo.
My oil changes on my 2002 Taurus with a 3.0 run around $80. No complaints. The mechanic uses nothing but the best NAPA offers and gives my car a careful once over looking for other problems. I'm a very senior citizen and don't want car problems. My Dad always said, "Grease is cheaper than machinery".
I once had a Regal with a 3.8 at Jiffy Lube and ended up in the pit showing the kid where the oil filter was located. I didn't get upset; I understand places like that have staffing problems with few young people who overhauled a John Deere in a hay field with a crescent wrench and a screwdriver.
Even that list is incomplete on the list of cars that use that 2.4 engine. However, some of those cars have that engine WITHOUT direct injection and are actually decent engines, like the Cobalt, G5, and older malibus.
When I make things other people problems and drop them off to the shop to fix I usually give a general description of what is wrong in case I am missing an obvious easy thing. Things like it makes a sound when I do this. If after their estimate I feel they are not on the right path I elaborate. You know after thinking about it check the U joint, or whatever that’s a little closer to what I suspect to guide them in.
Modern engines require oil changes every 5,000 miles. Modern engines are a lot more complex and are built to a lot higher tolerance than engines 20+ years ago and thats why they need clean, lightweight oil. Car manufacturers might say its ok to wait longer but thats because the warranty is only good for 4 or 5 years or 60-80k miles and after that you're on your own.
Some of those earlier cars (HHR, Cobalt, G5, Solstice, maybe others) had the port injected 2.4, not DI.
The 2.0 turbo on the high performance variants were all DI.
The 2.2 and 2.4 Ecotec motors are great.
Friend has an HHR with no issues.
Another friend had two of them, no issues.
My pops had a grand am with the 2.4 rusted out before the engine died had like 320k
I work for a security company that drives Nissan Rogue 3 cylinder turbos. We have one person maintaining well over 200 cars, maybe 300. Needless to say if we don't take it in for an oil change it doesn't get done. We've gone over 10,000 miles overdue. Cars are being driven into the ground.
My Pontiac G6 has that engine. It is noisy and gutless and gets lousy gas mileage, but has been reliable so far.
i have a G6 with that engine too and mine is actually very peppy and responsive. it’s noisy but still in good shape with 162k miles and a recent timing chain replacement, and doesn’t burn oil and never has
Car wizard is incorrect. The G6 has the LE5 2.4L which doesn't have direct injection (could have the VVT issue with the solenoid though). The HPFP and direct injection is the newer 2.4L engines (LAF).
@ true
Thought the G6 had the 3.6.
@ you could get a 2.4, 3.5, 3.6, or 3.9 depending on trim and model year
Outstanding "tech" video, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!!~ That is what/why I (personally) watch for, Thanks!!!!~
Yeah you gotta get rid of any sparkles in the oil system for sure! Nice work Wizard!!
Had a 2009 Malibu with 124k miles with zero engine problems from the 2.4l. Just sold it last year.
Good information, thank you. That will be very helpful to me since my 2017 GMC Terrain also has the 2.4L.
However, the first 7 models you listed ( 1:36 ) have the previous generation 2.4L that has port fuel injection (i.e., not direct injection). All of those 7 models except the Saturn Aura did, however, have an available direct-injected, turbo 2.0L engine.
I ALMOST bought an identical Buick Verano, I was choosing between it and a 2014 Mazda 3. I'm SO glad I went with the Mazda it's been the best vehicle I've ever owned. 10 years trouble free and still runs like a dream!
A lot of good information.
Back in the 70’s I managed a service station for a retirement home and they also had a fleet of vehicles, everything from several leased buses to older Plymouth station wagons for landscaping. They had just purchased 8 1977 Caprice for taxi use. It was the start of a lot of electronic control systems. I asked for training and tools but was told no. I could see the writing on the wall and started looking for a different job. Ended up moving and going into a dealership parts department.
Second note. I’ve owned two diesel trucks, a 7.3 and now the 6.7. With the issue of the 6.7 and the high pressure fuel pump. A neighbor worked at Ford dealership and now teaches at a college. His suggestion match’s yours, stay up on the oil changes, more often the better. Mine’s a 2013 and they don’t seam to have as many failures. I have started using a fuel additive at 100,000 miles.
The 1977-1990 Caprice was the second most reliable car ever made, with the carbureted models being the most reliable.
@ unless you had problems and no equipment to test or the information on what the electronic controlled.
been using a 2009 cobalt as a commuter since 2011. Other than timing chain going out around 110k miles, really no issues. Like others have said here, i stay on top of oil changes religiously and assume thats the main factor.
A major repair like a timing chain at 110k miles is unacceptable.
@BrockOBauma seems common on gm vehicles from what my mechanic said. he said same thing. its a sad fact
@@BrockOBauma When the screen name matches the IQ of the poster.
Say it with me: the service interval of the timing chain is 90k miles per the owner's manual.
It failing at 110k miles, assuming it wasn't serviced, is... like... what you'd expect it to do.
I do like how he's living in your pipsqueak "brain" some 13 years later, though.
@tim3172 how tf is it ok that the timing chain needs to be swapped every 90k?
Unacceptable. Timing BELTS need to be changed and are easily serviceable.
I enjoy changing oil myself. Just put the ramps at the front wheels and drive up, drain the oil, replace the filter with best product, fill oil with best product. Look at everything top and bottom.
Disposing of the old oil is the main problem.
Great explanation and understanding of how one thing effects another. Amazing 😮
So true about those euros. Keep up the maintenance and they are generally fine. The maintenance just might not be very cheap...
Had a 2009 HHR with a 5spd stick, replaced the synthetic oil every 5K. Ran like a top.
I did have the solenoid fail at 80K+ miles but was replaced under warranty as at that time GM had a 100K mile powertrain warranty.
Other than that it was a durable tough little lunch box that I put 160K hard miles on it and then I gave it to my niece and she put another 20K on it until her cousin backed into totaling it..
It was ugly.. but it was reliable.
Half the models you mentioned don't use the direct injected 2.4L engine which wasn't used until the 2010 model year. The older, non-DI engines are a completely different animal and far more reliable.
Any engine with VVT solenoids needs a Seafoam treatment in the crankcase to flush out the dirty oil. After only two treatments, my Ecotec 2.4L with over 180K miles, and now at 2700 miles on the current oil, and that oil is still very clean.
I also recommend switching to a DEXOS 1 Gen 3 rated oil. I just did this, and my oil consumption has dropped.
the older ones before 07 were pretty solid, never seen one break, only the car rusted to death lol
I own a Buick Regal with 2.0 Ecotec with a 6 speed manual. That car is the Opel (or Vauxhall) Insignia built in Germany and was a smash hit in Europe; it was awarded car of year in 2009. Note: the Ecotec 2.0 engine is a update of the Saab 4 cylinder engine that was used for decades... so it has a long record of reliability. OK, perhaps it's a bit finicky, parts can be expensive, and working on it can be bit labor intensive like many Euro design cars. Oh, and I will say the normal operation of this engine is definitely noisy with a lot of clicks and clanks LOL. All in all it's a cool underrated car. The Verano shown in the video is bit less interesting though.
Another excellent, revealing video of the auto industries intentional design discrepancies that take advantage of the consumer under the guise of saving fuel, the planet, money, and other abstract, hypothetical reasons. I want to apologize to you and Mrs. Wizard for making an inconsiderate comment recently regarding your desire to abbreviate the format of your videos. If you and your wife determine a shorter format is required to attract more viewers, so be it, I wish you well with your endeavors. Regardless, every one of your premium videos speaks the candid, technical truth combined with a good dose of humor for levity. I have always gravitated towards technical analysis, scan tool applications with o-scope diagnosis. Your videos never skimp on rich, useful content that educates the public and hopefully keeps them from avoiding the pitfalls of gross negligence and incompetence that plagues the auto repair industry. Thank you, Mr. and Mrs. Wizard!
Last month I replaced the PCV valve on my Tahoe. Nothing wrong with the original, just figured after 25 (that’s Twenty Five) years it was due.
Chevrolet is not what it used to be.
I know that carquest or whoever Mr. Wizard uses is more expensive than parts on Rockauto, but I did the exact same order on Rockauto selecting only genuine gm parts and selected Fedex early am next day shipping(most expensive shipping ($86.99). The total came out to $411.15 plus tax so around $450 depending on where you live. I feel the Wizard should change parts suppliers. It would be interesting to do the order on carquest since I think that is what he uses or used to use according to his videos to see how much it costs on their website.
check Rockauto first. $1,000? I'd buy a beater & load it with RA parts before any buick gets a thousand in parts. Nope.
100% ditto.
This engines technical name is the gm lea engine was also available in the 2nd gen equinox and siblings
I own a 2011 Jeep compass and it has gone strong over 180,000 miles and it still runs well. I have kept up on all maintenance and I do believe that is the reason it has gone that long. I haver heard time and time again that death of engines usually are caused by failed maintenance.
There is a website that tests motor oils and similar products, and they found that oil tends to lose viscosity under use, and one of the things that causes the viscosity loss is things such as timing chains grinding up the oil. The viscosity loss is a major contributor of engine wear and parts failure. Most of the newer vehicles have timing chains and other features that contribute to that viscosity breakdown, more so than simpler engines of the past. I use the calculator that is built into my Chevy’s computer, but instead of changing oil at 0% I change oil when it’s on 40% to 50%. That usually happens at 3,000 to 4,000 miles. I Hope it helps, because I have one of those famous 3.6 liter engines.
I have ‘08 Enclave 3.6 change oil every 4000mi now at 280000mi
Oil is cheap, new engines are expensive. Smart choice for 4000 to 5000k oil change frequency 😊
I've done that with our Acuras since day 1. At 40-50 % I change the oil, which is usually around 5000 miles. I've only used Mobil 1 and their filter. 186k miles on the Honda 3.5 V6 and 132k miles on their 2.4 KA 4 cylinder. I've had the dealer do the timing belt twice on the V6 (90k mile intervals). The 2.4 has a chain. Knock on wood, both are still going.
It’s crazy because I had one of these engines go for 240k miles and sold it with no issues. Sounds like I got lucky
my verano i just replaced my exaust solonoid at 120km....my o2 sensor just went....thanks to this video i now know to expect that high pressure fuel pump is next....thanks wizard!!
I had an HHR with the 2.4. It was a fine engine. It had over 250k when we sold it. Never had any big issues with it.
One person's experience is not statistically meaningful.
Your 2.4 was the LE5 port injected engine, these issues apply only to the direct injected engines - the HHR SS has a 2.0 liter version of that (the LNF)
I've dealt with bad service sales people who heard me say oil cooler leak but told the tech intercooler leak. Same person asked me if i have a warranty when my car was 3 years old and 30k miles. Im like yeah the manufacture's warranty that you know i haveThat person was promoted to service Manger.
I work at a gm dealer and I see a lot of the eco tec poop come in. A lot of stupid stuff, people lack oil change intervals so timing chains get stretched frequently. High pressure fuel
Pumps going bad and injecting gas into the oil a lot
This engine is known as the L850 engine; and they are also infamous for excessive oil consumption. I tell customers to go by the old school 3,000 mile/3 month interval because like you said this engine DOES NOT TOLERATE ANY maintenance negligence PERIOD. Another mechanic TH-camr (Rob the Mechanic) actually calculated how much oil there would be if you followed the GM oil life monitor with the “acceptable” amount of oil consumption from GM and by the time the car says to change the oil with, he found out the engine would be basically bone dry because the engine consumed it all!
Hope you don't mind me asking you the following question, @digitalrailroader - are you familiar with the Theta II 4-cylinder engines used in a lot of Hyundais and Kias from the 2010s? I have a 2.4-liter Theta II in my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport (2WD). Currently has 62k miles on it. My father was the original owner and changed the oil every 5,000 miles using only synthetic. Should I stick with the 5,000 mile interval or go down to 3,000 miles?
@@jsrosa1282 Not a mechanic but 5000 synthetic is very good, keep that as it is! 3000 is for regular oil, synthetic is better but cost more...
Gm has a tsb on those engines when the cam sensors fail you just replace them super common problem
I really enjoy your videos. Good information. But it's something up with ads? Only 3-5 minutes between ads on this video
My OCD is screaming to vacuum all the leaves and debris off the firewall. 🙃
What I think is happening to many people who take their car in for a problem and they think they know what's wrong: they bought a BT code reader off of Amazon. They mave have the raw information, but lack the experience to properly diagnose the fault. The Dunning-Kruger Effect, in the age of the cell phone.
I suppose you might be right, but, it is way cheaper to grab the codes, google them, grab some parts and try them versus bringing your car to damn near any mechanic or heaven forbid dealer, pay them to “diagnose” your car, mark up the parts and wallop you on labor. If the guy who brought this car into the wizard would have done that, he would have found the same thing the shop did, and saved a little. And, the wizard is actually an honest mechanic, but it still would have been cheaper to diy.
@jltsoyowdycjltsoyowdyc1076 Sure DIY is cheaper. If you have the skill. But any internet commando can buy a scanner and try to tell a shop what's wrong. The very thing Wizard is warning against.
Looks almost like a CP4 fuel pump from a diesel. Is the lubricity of the gasoline a factor in the wear of these fuel pumps?
When it first appeared Direct Injection seemed like a good idea. My last few years as a tech I saw that it caused lot's of problems such as high carbon deposits in the engine, Boost pumps that failed causing particles to get into the crankcase. It also seems that the high pressure injector acts as a water pick washing the oil on the cylinder wall. They might have developed this idea a bit more before applying it.
My 2011 HHR runs like a steel top. Very little maintenance required in the 8 year owned engine wise. Exhaust and a hub was replaced. But pretty much started every fricken day. I'm letting my friend borrow it currently because his Subaru blew a head gasket. I paid $3200 in 2017. And it still runs fine for local use. No long drives over 600 miles would be advised just in case. But for a 4 banger it's pretty cheap to run 😮😂😅😊😊😊
Nice buy! I'd pick up an HHR if I found one in good shape.
My 2006 was at 250k miles when we sold it. Kind of wish we kept it.
I don't know about that vehicle list. The Impala never used the 2.4L but did use the 2.5L. They are different engines.
I had a 2011 Chevy Equinox with the 2.4L engine, and I think I changed the exhaust cam solenoid maybe 5 times with the original ACDelco parts. And I was changing oil every 5k miles or less with Mobil 1 Dexos oil, and still. My high-pressure fuel pump never failed, and when I sold the truck it had 150k miles.
Five times, I’m thinking these should have been a recall.
Car wizard, may I say your program is just brilliant , I watch it in the UK regularly, I have a question we have a very stringent MOT test in the UK, why in the states has this not been taken up to ensure safe driving and that a second hand car sold gives to some degree a element of assurance that it will not be a total rust bucket. Thanks again not sure if you watch the program BBC The Repair Shop , but I deal with the electronics on the program, regards Mark Stuckey
Freedom! Freedom! Freedom!
50 different states with 50 different laws and standards for motor vehicles.
No one impinges on my freedom! to drive a rust bucket on the road No sirree!
So some states have inspection procedures, but even then it can depend on the county or city within a state. In NY it's a 2 part yearly inspection with one part being a safety inspection (for all cars regardless of age), and the other part is an OBDII inspection for emissions (only applies to cars between 2-25 years old), and any check engine light will fail even if it's super trivial unfortunately (I call small evap leaks the code of death once the simple stuff has been done).
My Audi has same high pressure fuel pump but it has a cam follower if follower fails it will detonate pump into the cam !
Just replace the oil with Full Synthetic as recommended (Dexos spec) every 5,000mi and you won’t have this problem. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. And keep the oil level full.
Owned a 2012 Equinox with the 2.4. The previous owner neglected that car. I changed the oil myself every 5k miles, with Mobil 1 full synthetic. I swear, I replaced the intake and exhaust solenoids so many times. That was easily the worst car I’ve ever owned.
I have a 2014 Buick Regal GS. With the turbo LTG engine. Kept up on oil changes and only used Mobil1 or valvoline full synthetic. Car now has over 250k miles. Very little in the way of problems. DO YOUR OIL CHANGES.
I always change my oil 3 to 3.5 K miles. I use Motorcraft semi-blend and Castrol ultimate full synthetic 5-30 weight and new premium oil filter. DO the work myself and NO PROBLEMS. Changing fluids is the cheapest way for LONGEVITY. 😀😀😀😀
Hope this Channel realized people don't care about exotic cars . But about the cars we poor people are stuck with.
It's not the solenoids. Either low oil or every 100k miles the timing chain and cam phasers need to be replaced. I am at 225k miles with that engine. Typically timing guides blow apart every 125k miles like clockwork too. If you don't plan on doing oil changes every 5k miles and timing chains + phasers every 100k miles, that is definitely not an engine for you.
Those Saturns and G5 were never DI, were they?
PCV? Rear main seal? Ask me how I know and spent my Christmas vacation. 😢
Replace the sensors twice on my 2014 verano first time had all kinds of camshaft codes, second time had similar camshaft codes nothing to do with the oil pressure sensor replaced myself for about a hundred bucks from RockAuto for both some years back after COVID. The first time cost me quite a bit because I had to get a diagnosed
i like the new introduction i was also wondering any updates on the old bus motor home you were working on and finding parts to fix the steering i really like the bus conversions it’s interesting what can be done with an old bus
It's winter. It's entirely possible he might either be waiting on parts, or he might be waiting on warmer weather to resume working on it. Or the shop might be busy with cars.
So very knowledgeable like a professor!! Great job
I've got the 3.0L from GM and I change my oil every 3,000 mi or 6 months
I like the shorter intro. Love the channel.
Cool video, but with so many hits found on your database from those specific engine codes, I bet a cheap scan tool, a quick google search and a few bucks in aftermarket parts would be the logical DIY move here. Remember, the people who actually watch these types of videos, are not the type of people who skip oil changes by much. And, we are also the type of people who know honest mechanics are few and far between. So we will only bring a car to a mechanic as a very last resort. Swapping those parts looks way easier than most of the things we have to deal with. Also, being such an easy job, trying some Amazon parts here makes sense IMO, I mean, I would check the reviews first, but I would definitely look for cheaper alternatives.
I absolutely hate direct injection. The minimal benefits are not anywhere close to worth it when compared to the cost to repair and maintain direct injection
Perhaps it's only the direct injected ones only? I've had my Solstice for almost 15 years and never heard of these fuel issues.
The solstice 2.4 did not have a high pressure fuel pump.
I grew up living religiously with changing the oil every 3,000 miles. I've been changing the oil on my cars, myself, for 40 years now. It really isn't difficult. It isn't too messy either. What I have gotten lazy on are tire rotations. At least I still check the tire pressures every week.
it used to be 2 to 3,00 miles for a oil change so by 5,000 miles you have already skipped one oil change already. i think 3500 miles is more realistic unless you make 3 or 4 hour trips at highway speed, then 5000 is more appropriate.
Ive seen those leak fuel into the crankcase and cause rich codes as well as completely waste that roller follower from being washed with fuel
I change my oil on 14 ATS 2.0t every 5k and I use only amsoil signature series and amsoil filter. In @ 107k now and the car runs like a champ. Tuned for e50 full bolt on making 330 wheel hp.
Yeah my gf had a 2016 Equinox RECENTLY and she had MAJOR issues with oil consumption. The rear main seal went out and that engine that had less than 100k took the A train out of there 😢
Isn't it a 2.5l not a 2.4l. My 2012 Malibu had the 2.4 with port injection. The next year they changed to a 2.5 with direct injection.
Hi Wizard and C0.
It seems changing parts that are a problem in the future is good practise, but then the customer questions why. WHY, because I don't want you back here in a while when that part that you questioned why I replaced it while I was elbow deep in the engine fails.
Well I used to own a Solstice and now I drive a Benz. I had to pay $3,600 to fix the Benz, I would have been better off with a $1,000 repair on the Solstice.
1000 bux fixes ALOT of things on a solstice. Most of which you can do standing next to it.
Great video as always 👍
As the Wizard demonstrates it's crucial to replace all ancillary devices related to the failed parts. However that won't keep the other parts of a non-maintained vehicle from failing in a few days or weeks. You never know when the Hodge-Podge modulator will detonate and take out the flambickle diversion switch. Thankfully that doesn't happen too often.