Good job, upgraded mine with Brembo X line and DS2500 and Premier in the back. Brakes like mad, ABS comes in a bit soon for my liking but I am used to old skool cars with no or simple ABS
Ideally want to put fresh discs on for a new pad compound. The pad grips against the transfer layer of pad on the discs, not the metal on the discs. So if there is a transfer layer from a different compound it's obviously not ideal. It'll work of course, but it's not optimum. Especially if you're doing any track days. You also crucially need to bed pads/discs in to get them most out of them, both new discs or old, to make sure there is a good even transfer layer on the disc. And condition the pad material with high temperatures. (assuming they're not bed in - in factory, which is not many brands). Bedding in procedure I use is 6-10 hard stops accelerating to 60 and decelerating had to 15/10 mph. Then drive for at least 10 mins at a decent speed (without braking if you can help it) to properly cool them off. Then you can get out of the car and let them get totally cold. When you're braking you want to give it a good amount of pressure to build up the heat, but not enough to set off the ABS which will leave and inconsistent layer and could lead to vibrations and other problems. With my BBK it's quite incredible the difference it makes, by the 7/8 go, it's braking with far more power than the first few. If budgets don't allow for new discs when you changed pads, just make sure you bed them in.
Superb site showing the servicing or any Problems in very good detail and really good clear filming and explaining on camera very clearly to your subscribers how to do things correctly with the fn2 Honda type R .Top marks To you and your father ..
Replacing the brake hardware affects the brakes, nothing dangerous, it just helps to keep a smooth motion between the caliper and the pads, less wear. Next time you get some brakes pads make sure it comes with new hardware, or you could just buy some, they're fairly cheap. In regards to the makeshift brake bleeder, I actually bought one for my Civic from halfords, I think it was about £4? For that price I'd recommend it, works wonders. Nice video though man!
Put my PBS pads on last week. Very good pads for road driving & I've got a track day coming up next month to test them there. I'm a bit sceptical about grinding the discs though, I'd get new one's if they've got a big lip on them. There's a company MTec Brakes that do grooved discs for about the same price as OEM, I have them & I've had no problems including doing two track days on them. Good tutorial on changing the front pads, people will always argue about copper grease. Each to their own is all I say.
Have you got a back brake changing video one thing you didn’t show anyone is putting the brake pads in with the metal brackets next time you do a video make sure include that please thanks you for the videos enjoy the Honda FN2 I have the same car live in Sydney Australia 🇦🇺
B REWEY I think I do but it's an older video calls "nuts, pads and jet tags" I didn't change my brackets on this one so I couldn't show putting them in sorry. Oh great! Glad you enjoy the car 👍🏻.
I thought wet temp. was the boiling temp after about a year of use (and mixed), and dry temp. was the temp straight after flushing and replacing the fluid?
kevin wallace you're very welcome ☺. I think I might have done a video called "nuts, pads and jet tags" where I mate have done the rears. Don't hold me to it though haha.
Bought a very low mileage full .13000 miles All checks been done on the car to verify the mileage and the authenticity of this car ...... 2011 Honda history superb FN2 HONDA TYPE R IN RED TOTALLY ORIGINAL GARAGED . we have been told off Honda that this is the lowest mileage FN2 HONDA TYPE R IN THE UNITED KINGDOM......
I've currently got protract on mine. The feel is great and the stopping power is more than enough for an occasional spirited drive and a track session. Not as powerful as Pro race but a lot less brake dust and last longer.
@@FNLEW thats what i wanted to hear! I cant decide though if i should go with oems for the rear. did you do pbs on the rear too? how is your view on that
@@TangASD I've actually not had to change my rears yet so I'm still on OEM brembo pads. Still do the job with most of the brake bias being at the front.
Hi..I have just found a really nice 2009 Honda Type R FN2 with only 35000 miles One owner. full Honda service history. after several weeks of looking every single day for my son .. We are Traveling to Bristol a 400 mile round trip to pick the car up next Jan 2019 next Monday day .... After much research on the fn2 have come across so many yes hundreds owners of the Honda Type R fn2 which have a problem with rust under the rubber windscreen seal we're the roof and the windscreen meet many of the owners took there cars back to Honda and they had a respray on the roof the rubber Honda used was a very hard rubber when dust or Dirt was trapped underneath the rubber seal and friction and movement caused the Dirt .Dust. to scrape away the paint between the hard rubber seal and on top of the paint Honda's have got thin paint on there cars the only way for this to stop was to remove the windscreen to deal with the rust issue properly get rid of the rust and prime and repainted correctly then put a softer rubber seal around the window after so many Honda owners complaining to them about the rust problem they good there cars done by Honda but some the problem came back only after a year And these were Honda dealership did not remove the seal and wind and do the job properly there many out of warranty and never was repaired ..Could anyone tell me if they have had this issue..or any issue's of rust around the Doors and boot seals and area...I really how after all the time I have been looking for the car my son wanted that this car as not got any issue's like this I will be looking under of all the seals to see if there is any rust appearing at all . I would be very great full to the owner of this site and is father or any member any information would be helpful,Thank you
P J mines an 07 and has very slight rust under the rubber seal, only really visible when pulling it back, the rust hasn’t spread far I recommend just taking a blower to remove debris and a small detailing brush to clean and decontaminate. There’s a product called “gummi pfledge stift” which swells up rubber seals like that making it harder for dirt to find its way under and I swear by it. If the rust has spread to be visible easily it’s not worth the respray and replace unless you plan on keeping the car a very long time. If there’s no rust just be sure to remove all water after washing and give it a good coating with that product I mentioned and a good wax on the paint close to the seal.
Hi, looking for bit of advice. You started bleeding from driver’s front, should it not be from the wheel that is the most further from brake cylinder which is passenger rear? Thanks
@@FNLEW thanks mate, will be the same brake fluid what goes in the main tank?, its just because its below minimum line got me abit worried lol, cheers mate
Hi mate, they did have a bit of noise but pbs have brought out new pads since then that don't really make noise at all. I've also tested these new pads 👍🏻
Hi.. please can you check at the front windscreen seal connected to the roof of the car .when slightly lift the lip of the seal can you tell me if you have any rust at all there as been so many fn 2 with this problem ...
Dry boiling point and wet boiling point has nothing to do with the weather or temperature of the weather. Dry boiling point at 312c is when the fluid is new, wet boiling at 205c is when the fluid has been used for a period of time as brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture over time, hence wet boiling point. Just some info for you :-)
![How to change front brake disc and pads set on HONDA CIVIC 8 [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
Good job, upgraded mine with Brembo X line and DS2500 and Premier in the back. Brakes like mad, ABS comes in a bit soon for my liking but I am used to old skool cars with no or simple ABS
Ideally want to put fresh discs on for a new pad compound. The pad grips against the transfer layer of pad on the discs, not the metal on the discs. So if there is a transfer layer from a different compound it's obviously not ideal. It'll work of course, but it's not optimum. Especially if you're doing any track days.
You also crucially need to bed pads/discs in to get them most out of them, both new discs or old, to make sure there is a good even transfer layer on the disc. And condition the pad material with high temperatures. (assuming they're not bed in - in factory, which is not many brands).
Bedding in procedure I use is 6-10 hard stops accelerating to 60 and decelerating had to 15/10 mph. Then drive for at least 10 mins at a decent speed (without braking if you can help it) to properly cool them off. Then you can get out of the car and let them get totally cold. When you're braking you want to give it a good amount of pressure to build up the heat, but not enough to set off the ABS which will leave and inconsistent layer and could lead to vibrations and other problems.
With my BBK it's quite incredible the difference it makes, by the 7/8 go, it's braking with far more power than the first few.
If budgets don't allow for new discs when you changed pads, just make sure you bed them in.
Superb site showing the servicing or any Problems in very good detail and really good clear filming and explaining on camera very clearly to your subscribers how to do things correctly with the fn2 Honda type R .Top marks To you and your father ..
Thank you very much ☺️
Replacing the brake hardware affects the brakes, nothing dangerous, it just helps to keep a smooth motion between the caliper and the pads, less wear. Next time you get some brakes pads make sure it comes with new hardware, or you could just buy some, they're fairly cheap.
In regards to the makeshift brake bleeder, I actually bought one for my Civic from halfords, I think it was about £4? For that price I'd recommend it, works wonders. Nice video though man!
Liam Conway thanks for your advice mate ☺!
Put my PBS pads on last week. Very good pads for road driving & I've got a track day coming up next month to test them there.
I'm a bit sceptical about grinding the discs though, I'd get new one's if they've got a big lip on them. There's a company MTec Brakes that do grooved discs for about the same price as OEM, I have them & I've had no problems including doing two track days on them.
Good tutorial on changing the front pads, people will always argue about copper grease. Each to their own is all I say.
Have you got a back brake changing video one thing you didn’t show anyone is putting the brake pads in with the metal brackets next time you do a video make sure include that please thanks you for the videos enjoy the Honda FN2 I have the same car live in Sydney Australia 🇦🇺
B REWEY I think I do but it's an older video calls "nuts, pads and jet tags" I didn't change my brackets on this one so I couldn't show putting them in sorry. Oh great! Glad you enjoy the car 👍🏻.
Love your videos mate. If you see a boggo standard type S around Sheffield, who pips ya. It's me haha. Keep em coming mate, love 'em...
Haha fair play mate. Thank you 😊
I thought wet temp. was the boiling temp after about a year of use (and mixed), and dry temp. was the temp straight after flushing and replacing the fluid?
year of use (ish) reducing the boiling temp as it has slowly absorbed moisture over time
Why did you grind the lip off?!?
How will you know it’s time to change your discs now?
In hindsight I'd probably not do that in future. It's best to change the disks aswell.
Another informative article about something I wanted to know about ,yer dad is great .Lets see the back pads done soon so I can av ago ,thanks
kevin wallace you're very welcome ☺. I think I might have done a video called "nuts, pads and jet tags" where I mate have done the rears. Don't hold me to it though haha.
Bought a very low mileage full .13000 miles All checks been done on the car to verify the mileage and the authenticity of this car ...... 2011 Honda history superb FN2 HONDA TYPE R IN RED TOTALLY ORIGINAL GARAGED . we have been told off Honda that this is the lowest mileage FN2 HONDA TYPE R IN THE UNITED KINGDOM......
Well done! 👍🏻
Keep the videos coming. Love them
Oliver Granger thank you will do ☺️
"That rings on your finger, your family". All you need is Gollum popping up and saying " My Precious!". Anyway, great video mate!
Gurb123 hahaha sounds about right 😂. Cheers mate 👍🏻!
nice vid! im thinking of purchasing pbs aswell for my fn2. did you have the prorace or protrack pads? and how is the brake dust and feel?
I've currently got protract on mine. The feel is great and the stopping power is more than enough for an occasional spirited drive and a track session. Not as powerful as Pro race but a lot less brake dust and last longer.
@@FNLEW thats what i wanted to hear! I cant decide though if i should go with oems for the rear. did you do pbs on the rear too? how is your view on that
@@TangASD I've actually not had to change my rears yet so I'm still on OEM brembo pads. Still do the job with most of the brake bias being at the front.
Hi..I have just found a really nice 2009 Honda Type R FN2 with only 35000 miles One owner. full Honda service history. after several weeks of looking every single day for my son .. We are Traveling to Bristol a 400 mile round trip to pick the car up next Jan 2019 next Monday day .... After much research on the fn2 have come across so many yes hundreds owners of the Honda Type R fn2 which have a problem with rust under the rubber windscreen seal we're the roof and the windscreen meet many of the owners took there cars back to Honda and they had a respray on the roof the rubber Honda used was a very hard rubber when dust or Dirt was trapped underneath the rubber seal and friction and movement caused the Dirt .Dust. to scrape away the paint between the hard rubber seal and on top of the paint Honda's have got thin paint on there cars the only way for this to stop was to remove the windscreen to deal with the rust issue properly get rid of the rust and prime and repainted correctly then put a softer rubber seal around the window after so many Honda owners complaining to them about the rust problem they good there cars done by Honda but some the problem came back only after a year And these were Honda dealership did not remove the seal and wind and do the job properly there many out of warranty and never was repaired ..Could anyone tell me if they have had this issue..or any issue's of rust around the Doors and boot seals and area...I really how after all the time I have been looking for the car my son wanted that this car as not got any issue's like this I will be looking under of all the seals to see if there is any rust appearing at all . I would be very great full to the owner of this site and is father or any member any information would be helpful,Thank you
P J mines an 07 and has very slight rust under the rubber seal, only really visible when pulling it back, the rust hasn’t spread far I recommend just taking a blower to remove debris and a small detailing brush to clean and decontaminate.
There’s a product called “gummi pfledge stift” which swells up rubber seals like that making it harder for dirt to find its way under and I swear by it. If the rust has spread to be visible easily it’s not worth the respray and replace unless you plan on keeping the car a very long time.
If there’s no rust just be sure to remove all water after washing and give it a good coating with that product I mentioned and a good wax on the paint close to the seal.
Hi, looking for bit of advice.
You started bleeding from driver’s front, should it not be from the wheel that is the most further from brake cylinder which is passenger rear?
Thanks
hi mate im pretty know to these cars, whats the little reservoir tank, its in front of them main brake fluid tank? cheers
I think it may possibly be a small overflow tank but I'm not 100% on that myself buddy.
@@FNLEW thanks mate, will be the same brake fluid what goes in the main tank?, its just because its below minimum line got me abit worried lol, cheers mate
Yeah mate there's no separate brake fluid. Do double check it's not something else but I can't see why it wouldn't be.
@@england22222 update dude, it's your clutch fluid. Also uses brake fluid 👍🏻
@@FNLEW I done it mate, dot 4 I used, thanks mate 👍
Try keeping the grinder still and turn the disc
Always entertaining dude, you should get you’re dad to start a TH-cam channel
Nathan Carpenter haha don't get him started 😂
Did you go with pbs pro track or pro race?
Pro track. It's more of an all rounder for road and track where as Pro race needs to get more up to temp to be at max performance.
Hi mate, how have you found the pads? Any squealing?
Hi mate, they did have a bit of noise but pbs have brought out new pads since then that don't really make noise at all. I've also tested these new pads 👍🏻
@@FNLEW oh thanks! Even on 4pot calipers? Where can i buy the newer PBS pads please
@@Dav1072 I think so. Try the pbs website or even RHD Performance.
@@FNLEW good man! Thank you and hope all is well
Hi.. please can you check at the front windscreen seal connected to the roof of the car .when slightly lift the lip of the seal can you tell me if you have any rust at all there as been so many fn 2 with this problem ...
th-cam.com/video/-HOrbQmAcKI/w-d-xo.html
What no painted calliper😳 ? Shocking !! You best paint them before mimms 🤣
Mugen Mugen I haven't got time 😂
hi can you use the pads out on weekdays driving or they only for race, or trackdays?
They're an all round performance pad so can be used anywhere.
Is your pads pro track or race track?
@@zhanrakipovski4232 I'm not sure but I know they're not race competition level so not the highest spec they do.
ok i would like to try it see how they are. I have to change brakes for my FN2 would like to try some pads that are stronger better than standard
@@zhanrakipovski4232 well then I highly recommend these pads
Dry boiling point and wet boiling point has nothing to do with the weather or temperature of the weather. Dry boiling point at 312c is when the fluid is new, wet boiling at 205c is when the fluid has been used for a period of time as brake fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb moisture over time, hence wet boiling point. Just some info for you :-)
Cheers for the info mate 👍🏻 😁
/how did you find the pbs pads on road ? as im looking at red stuff ebc and pbs seem to be for race use only. and say no road use at all???
Tony Prince they work perfectly fine on road. They're just squeal a lot at road driving temps 😂
I am on my second set of pbs. Less fade on the track compared to ebc yellows, but they do eat rotors..
Your dad should be in more he looks a good laugh !
Haha he'll be in plenty don't worry 😉
Brake****
Sick Will shit cheers 😂