Something I do, particularly with heavy doors, is to get a hardwood dowel and drill the holes out and glue in the dowels. After the glue sets up I sand the dowel flush. Pre-drill the holes for the new fasteners and it’s a permanent fix.
I was a furniture restoration professional for many years, and that is what I did on countless drop-leaf tables. The toothpick method is fine, but on a 200 year old piece of furniture that will probably last at least another century, I want to do the most reliable, long lasting repair as possible. Also, should the repair fail down the line, it's easy for the next restorer to to drill out the dowel and replace it without doing any additional damage to the piece itself. This is also one of the few places I don't use hide glue, but standard pva wood glue.
From a single mom who is very capable but not always knowledgeable, THANK YOU! This helped me repair my bathroom door without a full door replacement! ❤
If you have a lot of hinges holes to repair, I've used those children's medicine syringes to inject the glue into the holes. Then I just tap 2 or 3 toothpicks in there and chisel them flat a few hours later.
I have used toothpicks before. Never had a failure. Every household, including mine an I am a bachalor who avoids cooking, has toothpicks. Hadn’t used the fill until hammer inserting tight but I like it. Thanks for the follow-up
Even if you don't have toothpicks, so long as you have a chisel and some scrap wood, you can easily chisel a small corner of wood off. I've done this myself numerous times and I've never even used glue and I've never had a problem.
Yes, that will hold up nicely! Been doing this for decades. I don't squirt the glue in the hole. I just dip the toothpicks in the glue before hammering them in. Works like a champ!
Instead of toothpicks, I used fluted Hardwood quarter inch dowels into the hollow door that had a three-quarter inch thick wood strip at the hinge. The Dowels expanded with the glue that was used, filling the holes nicely. I then carefully drilled pilot holes into the center of the dowels. When I inserted the retaining screws, they felt perfectly tight.
Thank you. I actually have a fiberglass boat hatch with stripped out hinge screws. I will try this toothpick method and use JB weld as a strong sealant.
Hahaha- was literally writing vix bit when you said it!! Also, toothpicks or chopsticks, dipped in glue. Plus, they're actually quite useful for other stuff once in a while😁
I use golf tees and then drill pilot holes. You can reshaped the stub with a pocket knife or the old school pencil sharpener the cut off portion of the golf tee.
I've also used thin plastic wall anchors that work with my existing hinge screws and have never had one come loose. I take a drill bit the size of the head of the anchor for the first 1/8th or so of an inch and then widen the hole slightly for the anchor. Then, just tap it in with a hammer until the head of the anchor sits flush with the door casing, so the hinge sits correctly. If the hinge or hole is slightly off a 3/32 drill bit, it's good for a new center hole if the anchor can fill the gap. Make sure not to overtighten the screw. I never like using 3+ inch long screws if the trim and drywall are already installed because if there's a wire along the framing of the door, it can turn into a bad day...
Do you have to screw it in with the glue still wet? As a painter I would prefer that you wait until the glue dries. Sometimes you want to take the hinges off. I doubt the added strength of it being wet would actually do anything for a standard interior door.
I had a cabinet door in a bathroom with stripped screws the screws were 3/8 of an inch. Marked ware the hinges were.filled holes with plastic wood after it was dry drilled pilot holes put screws back in. This video was great always like to learn Thank you
Question and in need of help! Can I do the same method on the screws that attach to the actual door? I replaced our front door with a fiberglass door and after hanging the door realized that the manufacturer mis-installed the screws/hinge that attach to the door at a slight angle. The top of the door leans very slightly forward causing pressure at the top, making the door hard to close. I am wantint to pull the screws out and adjust it evenly but am worried I won't be able to reattach it securely. Any suggestions?
If you have owned an RV for any length of time, you know about glue with toothpicks for thread repair. Travel down the road in an RV is like an earthquake at 65+ mph for hours
Will this method work on spun out holes in drywall too or is the solution there the drywall anchor process always? My case is specifically about an HVAC register I replaced and having issue reinstalling the new one.
Ben what I use is a pencil. Just pull the hinge screws and flip it out of the way. take a drill and make a hole just a little bit smaller than your pencil. sharpen your pencil you can sand the paint off the pencil but not necessary. Put some glue on it put it in the hole and drive it home with a hammer. I take my oscillating tool to trim it off Flush. Now sharpen the pencil again and move to the next bad hole. Now flip the hinge back start the screws in the center of the pencil where the lead is now your done. I worked with a old handy man one time. He uses plastic hollow wall anchor. He filled the hole with some PL Adhesive tapped in the anchor took his very sharp chisel to shave the anchor flush put the screws in and it worked perfect. Just one word of ADVISE don't ask him if he's sure this will work. He will look at you over the top of his glasses and say. IF IT WOULDN"T OF WORKED I SURE WOULDN'T OF WASTED MY TIME.
Somewhat related... On stripped holes where there is MDF or particle board, I fill the tear-out with baking soda, apply liberal amount of CYA glue (crazy glue) to soak the baking powder. Almost instantly it hardens into a very hard material that is extremely well bonded to the base material. If there is insufficient fill, repeat the step until its filled. If its too full use a sharp chisel to scrape it flat and then lay out a new hole, drill it., and re-attach the hinge, or whatever has been torn out. This is permanently fixed for normal use - until someone drives the vacuum cleaner into the cupboard door again.
This is a huge issue I have seen coming from 20 year in commercial apartment management. If anyone is having this issue with their door latch or dead bolt, There is a new hardware solution that sits inside the door along the latch that is threaded, called Resecure Latch. They have a channel here that shows how it works.
A "fix-it guy" is just like an MD except that your results are usually immediately visible! Diagnoses, influencing variables, hypotheses, looking at different solutions and their pros and cons, post- assessments, preventative measures...
At home, I would use the toothpick or matchstick repair. On a professional job, I usually drill the holes out to a few mm bigger than the screw thread and glue in a hardwood dowel pin, then do a fresh install on the hinge. I only do this because it looks good and appeases even the fussiest customer.
What do you think about doing this in an MDF or particleboard jamb? I notice in this video (and possibly the previous) it was a solid wood jamb. I came across one page advocating (at least for heavier loads) drilling out larger than the screw and gluing in a hardwood dowel instead. Definitely higher difficulty but is it overkill for a hollow core interior door?
No wonder it didn't work for me before, I was trying the toothpick method, but it wasn't working. I never thought to use wood glue as well. I was just trying it with only toothpicks 🤦♂
Tooth pick, in a pinch maybe. I save my old kabob skewers. Usually bamboo, they have more diameter, hold the glue well andaarw somewhere between flexible softwood and durable hardwood. With a little glue, will take a beating and deliver superior performance to tooth pick.😮
Never tried it that way while not dry. I usually put the toothpicks in with the glue and let dry over night and then chisel them off, pre drill and then add the screws.
My go to was always a piece of cedar shim cut to be a bit big that it needed to be pounded in, the soft wood would let the screw come in without trouble but keep it tight, at my house I just have longer deck screws on the hinges that gave me grief 😅 but I'm the farthest thing from fussy with my own place
But, you put the screw into wet glue, which means that the screw itself will be glued in there with those toothpicks. Like how would you get that screw out if you needed to? Why not wait for the glue to dry before drilling and placing the screw in?
I’ve used toothpicks, but I prefer drilling the hole out enough to get a wooden golf tee glued in. Then I just pre-drill and drive the screw in like it is a brand new casing, because it pretty much is.
I like to take a shim a cut small pieces off and shove them in with glue, sometimes I use 2P10. Like to see the Vancouver Sheetrock guy do some carpentry stuff...
PLEASE LET THE GLUE DRY FIRST! It took me forever to remove painted over glued in screws from my hinges. The old home owners have made all my fixer upper projects nightmares going behind their work. 😢
Ben, side comment here - I'm still waiting for the video explaining how your 'trowel talks to you' mentioned/discussed in the video where you coated the plaster chimney repair :(
I have a different approach. I use a step drill bit and a drill a cone shaped hole. Then screw in those plastic screw style drywall anchors. No glue needed and it works for the door or hinge side.
Something I do, particularly with heavy doors, is to get a hardwood dowel and drill the holes out and glue in the dowels. After the glue sets up I sand the dowel flush. Pre-drill the holes for the new fasteners and it’s a permanent fix.
sadly i have metal doors with a soft core😤
I was a furniture restoration professional for many years, and that is what I did on countless drop-leaf tables. The toothpick method is fine, but on a 200 year old piece of furniture that will probably last at least another century, I want to do the most reliable, long lasting repair as possible. Also, should the repair fail down the line, it's easy for the next restorer to to drill out the dowel and replace it without doing any additional damage to the piece itself. This is also one of the few places I don't use hide glue, but standard pva wood glue.
I literally came to the comments to write this very thing. You beat me to it! 😂
Me too. If the door is heavy I drill out the hole then glue in a dowel then trim it off with a chisel when dry.
ohhh also another use for golf tees? haha I live near a golf course and always find them laying around!
From a single mom who is very capable but not always knowledgeable, THANK YOU! This helped me repair my bathroom door without a full door replacement! ❤
If you have a lot of hinges holes to repair, I've used those children's medicine syringes to inject the glue into the holes. Then I just tap 2 or 3 toothpicks in there and chisel them flat a few hours later.
I still enjoy watching your videos even when I'm not working on any projects. Always useful info.
I'm impressed with myself (self-backpat) for thinking of this years ago.. Glad to see a pro is doing it.
Definitely good advice to pre-drill your holes to avoid splitting the wood.
Saved my hind end many a time.
@@Joetime90 wish I knew that a couple of weeks ago, great advice!
I used this method for five stripped screws and it worked perfectly.
Thanks.
I have used toothpicks before. Never had a failure. Every household, including mine an I am a bachalor who avoids cooking, has toothpicks. Hadn’t used the fill until hammer inserting tight but I like it. Thanks for the follow-up
Sorry to burst your bubble, but I don't have toothpicks in my house 😅
Even if you don't have toothpicks, so long as you have a chisel and some scrap wood, you can easily chisel a small corner of wood off. I've done this myself numerous times and I've never even used glue and I've never had a problem.
Wood matchsticks used to be the go to before lighters came around 😂 now toothpicks and skewer sticks are the king in hole fixing 👑💕👍
Yes, that will hold up nicely! Been doing this for decades. I don't squirt the glue in the hole. I just dip the toothpicks in the glue before hammering them in. Works like a champ!
charm*
Glue and toothpicks or glue with cotton balls works really well too
If you don't have a drill, can you use 2 toothpicks and safely not split the door or frame?
Very nice. I used this toothpick method on my guitar on the strap mounts when I was younger when it pulled out.
This video helped me fix my bathroom door. I didn't wait for the glue to dry, and so far it's holding up great
I never thought of putting the screw in when the glue was wet. Good idea.
Instead of toothpicks, I used fluted Hardwood quarter inch dowels into the hollow door that had a three-quarter inch thick wood strip at the hinge. The Dowels expanded with the glue that was used, filling the holes nicely. I then carefully drilled pilot holes into the center of the dowels. When I inserted the retaining screws, they felt perfectly tight.
thanks for pointing out the objects real name. was previously calling it screw holes, not knowing any better
Thank you. I actually have a fiberglass boat hatch with stripped out hinge screws. I will try this toothpick method and use JB weld as a strong sealant.
Chop sticks are also free and great for that application.
You’re awesome bro! Thank you for your time and knowledge
Hahaha- was literally writing vix bit when you said it!! Also, toothpicks or chopsticks, dipped in glue. Plus, they're actually quite useful for other stuff once in a while😁
I use golf tees and then drill pilot holes. You can reshaped the stub with a pocket knife or the old school pencil sharpener the cut off portion of the golf tee.
I use either 3 or 6mm dowel, drill glue bang it flush. Self c bit, done. Dowel fills the hole
As a fellow skater, im going to use this video to fix my door, thank you Ben!
I've also used thin plastic wall anchors that work with my existing hinge screws and have never had one come loose. I take a drill bit the size of the head of the anchor for the first 1/8th or so of an inch and then widen the hole slightly for the anchor. Then, just tap it in with a hammer until the head of the anchor sits flush with the door casing, so the hinge sits correctly. If the hinge or hole is slightly off a 3/32 drill bit, it's good for a new center hole if the anchor can fill the gap. Make sure not to overtighten the screw. I never like using 3+ inch long screws if the trim and drywall are already installed because if there's a wire along the framing of the door, it can turn into a bad day...
Do you have to screw it in with the glue still wet? As a painter I would prefer that you wait until the glue dries. Sometimes you want to take the hinges off. I doubt the added strength of it being wet would actually do anything for a standard interior door.
I use wooden golf tees they go in like a nail and work really well
Your video was very helpful to me. Thank you so much👍🏽
I had a cabinet door in a bathroom with stripped screws the screws were 3/8 of an inch. Marked ware the hinges were.filled holes with plastic wood after it was dry drilled pilot holes put screws back in. This video was great always like to learn Thank you
I have a suggestion for you! When I'm fixing holes I use golf tees instead of toothpicks. They fill the hole completely.
I think you missed the previous video where he did what you suggested.
I’m getting a ton of golf tee comments. I think I just did a better title and thumbnail on this one
@@vancouvercarpenter Most people have toothpicks around the house, but maybe not golf tees. Pieces of pencils work great for larger holes.
Ben, do you recommend use something like called "Screw it again", I am concern it may splitting the wood. Please advise.
I used chopsticks when I replaced all my doors last year. They fit the hole perfectly and didn't need glue.
i do the same. never fails and no need for glue
Golf Tees are one of the best I have used
Thank you. This video helps a lot 🙏
Question and in need of help! Can I do the same method on the screws that attach to the actual door? I replaced our front door with a fiberglass door and after hanging the door realized that the manufacturer mis-installed the screws/hinge that attach to the door at a slight angle. The top of the door leans very slightly forward causing pressure at the top, making the door hard to close. I am wantint to pull the screws out and adjust it evenly but am worried I won't be able to reattach it securely.
Any suggestions?
If you have owned an RV for any length of time, you know about glue with toothpicks for thread repair. Travel down the road in an RV is like an earthquake at 65+ mph for hours
Any tips on stripped holes on a metal door??
Hi. Thanks for the video. My hinge keeps snapping and I can't keep it open to put in the screw. I think it's a boomer hinge. How could I keep it open
Cool Ben! I had no idea! Thanks!
Hi Ben, what if the screws on the door are stripped? There isn't much material in hollow core doors, so would toothpicks still work?
Yes. Exact same fix should work.
Will this method work on spun out holes in drywall too or is the solution there the drywall anchor process always? My case is specifically about an HVAC register I replaced and having issue reinstalling the new one.
What if place I need to do it on plastic????? Pool filter
What type of glue would I use?
Wood glue. Obviously.
thanks
Golf tee works great.
Will this work with mdf kitchen drawers?
How hard is it to get the hinge back off in a few years? Does the wood glue bind the screw?
Chopsticks and glue work great.
Chopsticks was the second most mentioned fix. Dowels was third.
Would you do the same method into a metal frame ???
Totally different beast. Not sure what I would do. I would need it in front of me to figure it out.
what if the hinge is disconnected from the door itself?
Love this great tips...thanks a lot...
Golf tees work great, too
thats how i do it. i prefer properly sized dowels tho, but have certainly used toothpicks.
Match sticks?
Thanks.
Would an alternative like an epoxy work as well?
Probably but wood glue is so effective and easy to clean I personally wouldn’t try epoxy.
Wood golf tees I use
Matchsticks work great also!
Thanks! Fixed my door
Ben what I use is a pencil. Just pull the hinge screws and flip it out of the way. take a drill and make a hole just a little bit smaller than your pencil. sharpen your pencil you can sand the paint off the pencil but not necessary. Put some glue on it put it in the hole and drive it home with a hammer. I take my oscillating tool to trim it off Flush. Now sharpen the pencil again and move to the next bad hole. Now flip the hinge back start the screws in the center of the pencil where the lead is now your done. I worked with a old handy man one time. He uses plastic hollow wall anchor. He filled the hole with some PL Adhesive tapped in the anchor took his very sharp chisel to shave the anchor flush put the screws in and it worked perfect. Just one word of ADVISE don't ask him if he's sure this will work. He will look at you over the top of his glasses and say. IF IT WOULDN"T OF WORKED I SURE WOULDN'T OF WASTED MY TIME.
Would you recommend gorilla glue?
Somewhat related... On stripped holes where there is MDF or particle board, I fill the tear-out with baking soda, apply liberal amount of CYA glue (crazy glue) to soak the baking powder. Almost instantly it hardens into a very hard material that is extremely well bonded to the base material. If there is insufficient fill, repeat the step until its filled. If its too full use a sharp chisel to scrape it flat and then lay out a new hole, drill it., and re-attach the hinge, or whatever has been torn out. This is permanently fixed for normal use - until someone drives the vacuum cleaner into the cupboard door again.
I have seen this method also used on wood furniture they even used food coloring in the baking soda to give it a different color for looks etc.
electrical wire works really well also
Keep up the amazing work Ben you always do and amazing job on your work and your videos. Your videos never disappoint.
This is a huge issue I have seen coming from 20 year in commercial apartment management.
If anyone is having this issue with their door latch or dead bolt, There is a new hardware solution that sits inside the door along the latch that is threaded, called Resecure Latch. They have a channel here that shows how it works.
Plastic drywall anchors. Get the appropriate size and they work great. Or drill the stripped hole bigger and use larger anchors.
Awesome!
A "fix-it guy" is just like an MD except that your results are usually immediately visible! Diagnoses, influencing variables, hypotheses, looking at different solutions and their pros and cons, post- assessments, preventative measures...
very helpful. TY!
bamboo barbeque skewers dia. 3.5mm.
I've done that. It works Bamboo actually splinters lot's more than "normal" wood.
At home, I would use the toothpick or matchstick repair. On a professional job, I usually drill the holes out to a few mm bigger than the screw thread and glue in a hardwood dowel pin, then do a fresh install on the hinge. I only do this because it looks good and appeases even the fussiest customer.
Wood glue and toothpicks or wood dowels work wonders. The wood glue is the equalizer and the hammer drives this home.
Another glue that works really great for these fixes: brown gorilla glue. I find it superior to wood glue for these jobs.
Thank you for your video. Just have a quick question: What type of glue did you used on that hole?
I like chop stick.
The other day i ran out, but on the bright side, i had sushi for lunch ... lol.
Golf tees baby!
That was the last hinge video
I've never found toothpicks or matches good enough to hold heavy doors. I just ended up inserting dowel rod in, and drilling a new hole when it's set.
What do you think about doing this in an MDF or particleboard jamb? I notice in this video (and possibly the previous) it was a solid wood jamb.
I came across one page advocating (at least for heavier loads) drilling out larger than the screw and gluing in a hardwood dowel instead. Definitely higher difficulty but is it overkill for a hollow core interior door?
The dowel is a solid fix. Might work better for particle board.
No wonder it didn't work for me before, I was trying the toothpick method, but it wasn't working. I never thought to use wood glue as well. I was just trying it with only toothpicks 🤦♂
Tooth pick, in a pinch maybe. I save my old kabob skewers. Usually bamboo, they have more diameter, hold the glue well andaarw somewhere between flexible softwood and durable hardwood. With a little glue, will take a beating and deliver superior performance to tooth pick.😮
i did this and the screws just continue to spin
Never tried it that way while not dry. I usually put the toothpicks in with the glue and let dry over night and then chisel them off, pre drill and then add the screws.
Might be the difference between working on your own home or someone else's. We often don't have the time to come back for another visit.
I measure the size of the stripped out hole, then turn an exact fitting plug on my lathe using the same species of wood.
My go to was always a piece of cedar shim cut to be a bit big that it needed to be pounded in, the soft wood would let the screw come in without trouble but keep it tight, at my house I just have longer deck screws on the hinges that gave me grief 😅 but I'm the farthest thing from fussy with my own place
Golf tees work great if you have some.
Yup. That was in my first video.
use scrap piece of electrical wire or chopstick
In 2:38 my doesn't stay open
But, you put the screw into wet glue, which means that the screw itself will be glued in there with those toothpicks. Like how would you get that screw out if you needed to? Why not wait for the glue to dry before drilling and placing the screw in?
I have the same question but see no answers , perhaps no one tried as the hardened glue & toothpicks might crack whilst screwing?
I’ve used toothpicks, but I prefer drilling the hole out enough to get a wooden golf tee glued in. Then I just pre-drill and drive the screw in like it is a brand new casing, because it pretty much is.
I use golf tee's
I like to take a shim a cut small pieces off and shove them in with glue, sometimes I use 2P10. Like to see the Vancouver Sheetrock guy do some carpentry stuff...
Can you do a kickflip before next time?
PLEASE LET THE GLUE DRY FIRST! It took me forever to remove painted over glued in screws from my hinges. The old home owners have made all my fixer upper projects nightmares going behind their work. 😢
You definitely need a Fast cap knuckle bender
Ive used matchsticks, bamboo skewers, and actual sticks from the yard.
I prefer drywall anchors.
Dang. I drilled it out and glued in a dowel. Then re piloted it. Guess I over thunk a bit.
No. You did a good job. Just slightly more work than toothpicks.
Ben, side comment here - I'm still waiting for the video explaining how your 'trowel talks to you' mentioned/discussed in the video where you coated the plaster chimney repair :(
I find a chop stick works well with glue.
I have a different approach. I use a step drill bit and a drill a cone shaped hole. Then screw in those plastic screw style drywall anchors. No glue needed and it works for the door or hinge side.
Another great method is wood glue saturated cotton ball stuffed in hole, haven’t had a failure using this method either
The hollow core door is stripped and wallowed out ,I wonder if there is a repair ....6.3.2024