CZ P10c Complete Disassembly/Reassembly Down to Bare Frame
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ค. 2019
- Taking The CZ P10c down to bare frame and slide. Thanks everyone who watches. Almost to 200 subs
After watching the complete video at the 17:00 minute mark I kept saying “this piece” instead of the disconnector.
Follow me on IG for upcoming videos- / theshooterstable Get Protected, Sign Up With Aura 2 Weeks Completely Free with my sponsor
aura.com/thegunbench - กีฬา
![บุษบา - เมนทอล [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IGnWPokSEis/mqdefault.jpg)
![[TH] GEN vs SEN | FPX vs TH - VALORANT Champions 2024 DAY 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcyH-0LAlhs/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the absolute gold standard for P10C (and F). Great video still 4 years later!
Outside of the factory, we’ve also employed the services of an NIJ-certified independent third party to perform testing to the P-10 platform in accordance with NIJ-STD-0112.03, Autoloading Pistols.
During this outside testing, P-10s of various configurations/models were subjected to extremes of temperature and environment like sand, salt water immersion and more. Another aspect was extensive rough handling and drop tests. In those tests the P-10 performed as we knew it would - experiencing no failures.
The main safety systems, as you’ve mentioned in your write-up, are the trigger safety and the drop safety. Both of these mechanical safeties work to prevent the P-10 from firing without the trigger being pulled.
The safety in question is a third safety, known as the ‘automatic safety.’ For the automatic safety to ever need to be employed, either the firing pin, the sear surface of the trigger bar, the trigger bar spring pin or the frame itself would have to fail. In the incredibly rare instance of one of these items failing, the role of the automatic safety is to reduce the chance of the firing pin igniting a chambered round, adding a third layer to the robust safety system within the P-10.
There are many factors present in the 'testing' in question that are not able to be present in the P-10 during use in its assembled form. First and foremost, the firing pin travel exhibited in videos of these ‘tests’ is far greater than the maximum firing pin travel reached during the normal cocking/firing sequence (to the tune of 1.5x, resulting in a corresponding increase in inertia within the firing pin).
Realistically and in the worst case scenario, were a failure to happen the firing pin would be falling from its pre-cocked position with far less force, allowing the automatic safety to retard its forward travel. When in the pre-cocked position, the firing pin still has 3.5mm to travel before achieving its full travel and being released by the trigger bar.
A major factor in all of this is that the designers of the P-10 intended this tertiary safety to function once and as a last resort were a parts failure to have occurred, envisioning it much like an airbag in a car. During normal use of the firearm, the automatic safety never impacts the corresponding shoulder on the firing pin. As such, when called upon those two engagement surfaces are able to make positive contact, hampering the firing pin's forward progress.
Subjecting the system to non-standard testing such as this will in no question create undue wear to those engagement surfaces, and the more times the test is repeated, the less chance the automatic safety will be able to perform its function in the rare instance it were needed. Fully withdrawing the firing pin to that overdrawn position will exacerbate this greatly.
Like in other instances where faulty information on the internet has led folks to perform ill-advised 'testing' that ends up damaging guns
Dude this saved my ass! Last year I put the guide rod in the wrong way and the gun was stuck. I got angry, disassembled it poorly, put it in its factory box and kind of forgot about it. This morning I “found it” again and decided to put it back together, and luckily I still had all the pieces. Watched this video and I when a fully functioning P10 C again!!! Thank you!
Awesome glad it helped. Now get out and shoot that thing
The Gun Bench Oh for sure! I’ve had range trip ammo set aside for for weeks now, I’m not one of those panic buyers 😎
Jesus christ i put the whole thing back together and my trigger was dead, after banging my head against a wall for a moment i managed to dissasemble it by locking the slide, removing the rear cap, pulling the firing pin out and going from there... Took the whole thing apart again and realised that at some point the "striker" detent spring had decided to leave.. By some miracle i found it by shining a flashlight under my desk. So yeah basically did the whole dissasembly and assembly twice but it works now and trigger feels significantly smoother.. Also removed a shit ton of brass remaints from everywhere. Watch out for that little spring people, also found out you can put the whole rear striker double spring assembly together by hanging the springs downwards by gravity and putting the pin through that way, once the pin is through you just pull the assembly forward to insert the striker and the tiny spring.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. I was installing the Theta trigger. The slide was no problem. When I disassembled the frame, the pin holding the two springs fell out, and the piece behind it. No one on any TH-cam video about the HB Industries Theta installation ever said to make sure that pin doesn't come out. Anyway, the way I got those springs stretched over the pin was using a dental pick. Worked great.
Donald Vosburgh yeah I usually have some on my bench but I took them to the garage and forgot them before I made the video. They defiantly come in handy. Glad the video helped and thanks for the sub
Very helpful! Thanks
I use Alan keys as a punch. Short end to get it started, long end to push pins through
Nicely done - very helpful!
Thank you for your work in this video. I recently had a severe malfunction where the the got jammed. I had to punch out all pins and just everything out along with the slide and barrel! I lost a few parts; the magazine catch and the spring it sits on and the slide stop spring. I found the first two but have no idea where the magazine catch spring went to. I'm waiting for the new one in the mail.
I wouldn't have been able to reassemble my CZ P10C were it not for your video. Thank you!! You saved me alot of money
Damn, Definitely going to keep trigger assembly stock on my P10 C. Already replaced stock mag release with one that actually works, the APEX Tactical. Anyway, watching this breakdown really made me appreciate the beautiful simplicity of my Glocks. Fewer parts equals fewer things to break or malfunction and greater reliability. I can tear down and reassemble those with my eyes closed. The CZ is a nightmare. Thanks for the video!
There is literally nothing better about glocks. They can’t take nearly the abuse a CZ can right out of the box, they have terrible triggers, and CZs don’t blow up in your hand. Glock is a zombie brand that hasn’t innovated in decades, CZ makes an objectively better product for less.
@VideoStartsAt1 glocks can't take abuse? Glocks blow up in hands?
Lol what?
Love the video
Thanks for your efforts. It was a big help.
Good job!
Do I need to take the entire gun apart to get the mag release/spring back in correctly?
Hello. Thank you for going through the p10c. I love it but I find that the left corner (from the rear) of the beaver tail digs into my right thumb. I’m trying to see if the corner can be sanded down or the tang deepened so my knuckle clears the corner. Do you have a pic or measurement of the beaver tail thickness and would you think taking off some material would compromise the structural integrity of the pistol? It’s not like the Glock trigger guard that’s why I’m hesitant to sand anything down. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks for giving us a deep dive into the p10c :)
Thank you for the video my mag relates fell out of my P10c st the range.
Your mag release system is very different. Mine catches on the side of the mag. I have a p10c.
ok so is the extractor pin metal or plastic? You said it was plastic be careful....then you said im gonna leave it in there its just a little metal pin....?
Hey man super niche question
When changing out the trigger the trigger bar disconnect came out when trying to hammer in the rear roll pin
I fiddled with it to get it back in and it went in
However I didn’t check to see if the spring was still positioned correctly so I don’t know if it’s still under tension or if the spring just fell in and it is sitting there. Is that even possible? Could it go back in with the spring dislodged in there? I don’t have the tools to easily disassemble again so I figured I’d ask
Great video
Have you ever noticed how that striker block safety actually works?? According to cz its only meant to SLOW down the striker in the event of a malfunction not stop it like a plunger system found in a glock or smith for example, i think alot of people carry this gun without really understanding how it works.. Whats your opinion on it???
It’s a lot
You don’t need spend money on a new set of longer punches, just flip some old drill bits of the appropriate diameter. Thx for the video 👍
People are so funny. Fudydud: "Glock is so lame hasn't innovated since the 80's, blocky horrible grip angle." CZ: "here you go!" Fudydud: "aghhh there's so many pins, aghhh it's harder to take down and replace with Gucci shit, aghhh I don't care if it's got a better trigger or feels better than whacking in my basement aghhhh."
I did not see how you placed the Recoil Spring/Rod on barrel block. There is this grooved half-moon that it gets me confused.
The solid black portion of the rod is the part that will sit against the groove. Best way to seat it in the groove is to actually place it a tad bit underneath it and it will push itself into the spot. You should hear a click
Mega554321. Thank you sir. I asked the question because when I bought the gun I was told exactly the same thing. I cleaned it for the first time and put it back together (the same way), but I dropped the gun by accident upside down and heard the recoil spring/rod pop inside. Thinking I did not do it right I disassembled the gun again I found the rod resting against the barrel/chamber block not on groove. I’m just worried if it is a specific manufacturing issue for my gun or I’m not doing it right.
I would have my Glock completely stripped and re-assembled in the first 15 minutes of this video. I like to shoot the P-10 as much as my Glock19 but hate the stripping compared to the Glock.
Thanks for the video, but in Serbia we use CZ 99 not SIG p226 🇷🇸 👍
Get a nylon or rubber hammer
Can't reinvent the wheel. Glock is the superior weapon for simplicity
You have a shrine dedicated to Gaston Glock don't you?
Sure, it's simple but it's also too fat and the trigger is garbage forever
Shit man it’s a good video, but would’ve appreciated a warning that you missed a step before so that i didn’t follow along and make the same mistake
TOO MANY PARTS, TOO MANY PLASTICS THAT MY DEFORM OR BREAK IN THE LONG RUN
If you Thatcher something due show man
Those pins should have been pushed off on the frame from right to left every CZ operates in that manner
It doesn’t matter on these or many other CZs, unless the pin is tapered, has a head, staked or has a retention groove it doesn’t matter, as most of the pins in this gun are standard roll pins there is no direction, the other 2 pins push out easily either way.
According to Cajun they and another gunsmith said right to left the left to right back in tell them I guess as they are give false information @@TheGunBench