i have also worked on tons of these things,the seq. is the 1st thing to ck,i have replaced so many of them,some later models came with contactors,then relay with small printed board on the relay,but the seq. controls are the worse things sometimes,they have that little small metal disc in them that when 24v energized heat rises it to activate the seq,crazy idea but some have lasted for yrs before they go bad,i really dont see how they last as long as some do,great video,thanks
Looking forward to more troubleshooting videos on electric furnaces. I would like to know what voltages I should be getting where, how to check for broken elements, and how heat pumps work together/ at the same time as an electric furnace. Thanks! I learn a lot from these videos and I've been in the field for a year and half.
Had one manual sitting close by going back to 1970 for Intertherm Electric and late 60's for Gas. Will look through some more to see if I can locate the other old ones. Seen them not long ago, so they are here somewhere . Take care, Brett
Thank you for the videos, i really enjoy them,they help me out more than you know,i like the way u explain things,i have got a lot from all these videos,they keep my mind working,i try to always comment,and 1 more thing i have had to rewire several of the elec. furns when the drain clogged and dripped water in the controls and burnt wiring and all controls,a lot of them so old the diagrams gone,thats when it gets to be a little hard,good thing they are fairly simple elec furns , thank as always!
They were probably the worst but most common of the sequencers. occasionally they would burn up and make quite the mess. I found quiet operating contactors made by honeywell that could be used and I never had a failure after that. Thanks for the comment. GFM
I was going to be so disappointed if no one questioned if this was hank hill or not and then the he only does proprane comment haha... why i love the comments man!
Sequencers and burned/loose connections are my most common electric furnace issues. I'd like to see sequencers disappear. They're easily prone to failure. I'd prefer a single contactor or even a solid state relay (pretty expensive but silent)
Lots of units use relays and I think they work well. Old trane units use contactors and I’ve encountered a lot of contactor hum that gets very annoying. When it comes to explaining something to a customer I would much rather tell a customer a sequencer is bad then tell them their contactor is working but is making noise and the only solution is to replace.
Why does my old 80's ruud have a resistor that hooks to the contactor from the element? Mine keeps burning one 120v leg. I get plenty voltage from the 24v transformer. Think the sequencer or resistor by the element could be the problem? I use a laser thermometer and its only the one leg that heats fast at the breaker like to 200 in 2 min. All my connections have been checked & cleaned. These elements seem to have constant power straight from the power source to the thermo disk to the elements and I'm guessing activated by that resistor somehow? They don't heat when the furnace is off even though they have power. Anyway I'm guessing and wandering from someone that has experienced with these old ruud. I'm stumped and been chasing my tail over and over. Pros are rare here and parts are 1.5 hour each way drive. Any help would be GREATLY GREATLY appreciated. Thanks for your videos
Can you tell me what would cause a blower motor to keep running on the electric furnace after the heat strips are off. Blower won't stop even after heat strips shut down; Thanks and love you youtube.
Love the videos u make. I'm not the handiest person but with these videos I am able to figure my problems out on my own. Hate paying for what I can learn and do. Without people like you I would have a much harder time learning. Thanks so much for your time!!!!
I have a vintage G.E. electric wall heater with the coils and a fan. How can I add a thermostat to it. All it has is a off on knob and one for the temp that has no numbers.
First, throw it away. most of these heaters with exposed coils are quite dangerous to use due to fire hazard. The knob for temp is also a limit that gives a small safety margin for overheat. If you must install a thermostat, it must be installed in series with the original thermostat. GFM
@@williamhiggs9646 There are many wall heaters, most use a fan to force the air. Much safer. The size won't be the same but any home store will have them. GFM
First, check for plugged filter. Then check all breakers related to the furnace. There may be several in the panel and in the furnace. Turn them off, then back on. If all is ok, it gets more complicated. You could have burned off wires in the furnace, failed elements or sequencers may have failed.
If anyone ever needs a wiring diagram for one by chance, give me a shout. Chances are I have one. Lots of old service manuals for them dating back to he 60's and 70's,lol. Great video series GFM as always. Take care, Brett
I'm gonna take a chance here and see if I get an answer. I checked a 20 kw today, and only the top 2 elements come on and the bottom 2 don't. I took the wires off to check for continuity on the sequencer and my meter beeped meaning "good". Then I checked the limit switches and they also beeped, and lastly the elements themselves and also beep. Both breakers show 240 volt. I'm at a lost on this one. Should I ohm it out instead of continuity?
Put away your ohmmeter. It is the last tool to be used in troubleshooting. Get out your clamp-meter first. Check amp draw on each element. When you determine which are not energizing, use your voltmeter. Check for voltage at the source of each circuit. Then check at the load. If you read the proper voltage at the source, and not at the load, then check each switch in the circuit. With these type of circuits, this simple method is foolproof. GFM
Can I please get your opinion on something? I have an electric furnace and I've had someone come look at it and he said everything was fine, but the heat that comes through the vents is luke warm. He said that's just part of having an electric heater but my electric bill goes through the roof in the winter and I only even run the central heat at night. What should I do? Should I get someone else to look at my furnace or is that just the luck of having electric and not gas?
If it is an electric furnace and not a heat pump, it should have about the same duct temperature as gas. There could be one or more of the elements not working. That would cause the low duct temp. GFM
The square footage is only one of many factors to take into account. You need to do a heat loss calculation for the home before deciding on that one. There are some simple ones on the internet. Hope thisd helps. GFM
My home is a 1984 Mobile Home all electric. I bought the heater elements setup to replace my heater elements on EBay. I didnt know what I was doing which is par for the course. My heating element has 3 coils and a Fuse Box. The Old Elements were just disintegrating. When I went to replace the wiring it started falling apart in my hands. I found one on EBay for $220 that had circuit breakers which meant I could replace the fuse box. (The box is OK because I changed it out 15 years ago). These elements had relays and limit switches everything was attached. 2 wires for the control board that hooks up to the AC RELAYS and 4 wires for the DC Relays. 2 wires to hook up to the fan switch. Today I started looking at the Schematics for the new Element System AND ALSO the schematic for my old system. WHERE IS THE DC? That was what jumped out at me. oh oh. The new elements have DC Relays on the Black wires and AC Relays on the Red wires. So What do I do Send it back? Or is there a Control Panel I could buy with a DC power supply on it that I could buy or what? Something about being 78 on verge of Alzheimers is basis of what I will have to plead should the house burn down I guess. What should I do?
intertherm F000993043. Am sending back the unit I ordered because it has DC relays, it is the wrong one. Tomorrow I am going to try to get a Resting Kit, I need one with the ceramic Ends because mine are broken.
I have a Electric York funance , about 6 years old. My Ac coil on my furance was really dirty, so freeze. So, my blower fan was running all the time. I open my planum as say only 1 stage of 2 element working. I replace both Limit switch.... but still the same thing... i replace the motor board , same thing... i do have 4 relays.. i change 3.. still the same thing.... my fans still ON ans dont stop... blower is on safaty mode.. on the board.. it flash 3 time. Im not an expert on electricty.. but each relay seem to work fine BuT.. not sur if its normal. One have 110V all tbe time.. the second / 3 and 4 got 110 Volt only few second after the thermpstaht ask for heat.. and you can hear the " click ".. .. 110 Volt to each Element.. i got feeling 1 stage is of element not working du to overheating... Anything i shoud check? Any idea ? Sorry for my english
If you are seeing 120 volts, you are probably testing to chassis. If so, you will always see voltage. The furnace runs on 240 volts. Check voltage across the switches to determine which has failed. GFM
Your heat strip is very simple! Mine, a Mortex BMH-55-15 is a bit more complicated. I appreciate the videos though. I watched almost all of them and think I am going to start with replacing the sequencer.
Everything was the same the only thing I did was add another wire to the common post and now I dont have any power on the furnace. My thermostat says I don't have any power coming out from my furnace
Trying to help a buddy that is in a town without a service tech. Norton Broan electric furnace and he turns it on heat and nothing happens and he turn the fan on and it comes on. I got him to jump r&w at the thermostat and nothing happens. I don't know much about electric furnaces is there anything that would be likely to be the problem? Thanks in advance
I will check deeper into your playlist for sure. If I had him jump r&w and it still isn't working that I don't think it can be the thermostat. Thank you for the reply
This was a lucky find today for me, I have an 1982 York blower both ac and heat with pump. I have an issue with the blower thinking it's on heat when it's on AC. I was told it was the control board and have tried finding it to replace and was told the part was discontinued. However after watching this video. I'm wondering if it not the control board but a sequencer instead. I've replaced the thermostat and ac works fine. But in order to get the AC working I had to disconnect the wires for heat on the control board.wondering if you could shed some light on this matter thanks Birdie
@@grayfurnaceman ok I may just us a #4 awg and just run one wire to double 40 amp instead of two #6 awg wires to 2 40 amp breakers thanks.Better to run just one #4 awg wire and that should carry my 80 amps.
Just had a new Coleman electric furnace installed with a 3 ton unit outside the weird thing is the blower will continue to blow after the air conditioner shuts off at lower speed it also does it with the heater the installer told me that was the way it would work before he left.
Give me a few days and I'll pull them out and see how many different ones I have. When I was selling parts online, we were well known for old obsolete parts and wiring diagrams. Take care, Brett
Can you please tell me where can I find model name/number for my furnace. I'm trying to order a new heating element as half my element comes on (gets red) but other half doesn't. It's an old unit I'm not sure if I can find a replacement heating element for it. Can i rewire my current element ? And how ? Thanks
Make and model are in various places but most are on the panel you remove to get to the elements. Some elements can be rewired if the element runs thru circular ceramic insulators. Check my channel, I have a video on how to rewire an element. GFM
If a person is building and buying a new 15 kw electric furnace with air conditioning? What brand/model furnace would be one of the best to buy? Considering durability, ease of repair, cost of parts, and lastly initial cost?
Gary I want to install a iceco model 14AHJ11S01C01 downflow heat only for a crawl space. Never installed electric before. Do I have to use a heat pump or is it built into device? Also I'm not hooking to Central Air conditioning. Just heat so is pump necessary or just fan across the coils? geomessler at hotmail. Thanks
when replacing the seq with contactors,even using quiet contactors,they will get louder with time,but a lot less problems,and the contacter needs to be heavy duty not 30amp for cond,i have run across this and the 30 amp wont do for heat strips they burn up in no time at all,great video,cant wait for the next 1,keep em coming,thanks
Well.. All the relay are new. Im not an electric expert.. but when i test the resistance for each element.. i go 0 resitance where my first 110V come from.. and 12.2 if cross , witch is normal... I got 4 Relay. Each relay give 110V to the element ( black wire) stop and go , id jeating is call.. Each element have 110V on the other end... power from al relay ( yellow wire )
put on new thermostat and now heater will not work. put old thermostat back on and still nothing. Smelled something burnt. Any suggestions on what to check?
The electric heater I have in my condominium has 3 coils with thermal link fuse between coil and limit switch for all three. In last one week coil#1 thermal link fuse got open which stopped coil heating. I replaced with new thermal link fuse and coil started heating. It opened again today so I am not sure what is going wrong. Its 5KW coil with 250V/15AMP TF152degC. Is this thermal link important can I directly connect heating coil to limit switch like the one you have in your video, would there be any problem?
+snehalshankar Not only no, but heck no on the bypass. Unsafe. There are 2 reasons for the link to open. Low airflow from plugged filter, dirty blower wheel. Or an element sticking on due to sequencer stuck closed. Let me know what you find. GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thanks GFM for your quick reply. I really appreciate it. When I opened it yesterday to replace thermal link fuse I saw that heater coil#2 and #3 where not getting heated up much like coil#1 was. I see all three getting heated little differently like coil#1 is most then 2 is mild and 3 is less, is this the real experience or all 3 coils should heat up same at different times based on sequencer? Blower wheel looks good and no dust. I am not sure about what plugged filter means is it the filter 20 by 20 by 1 which is for air flow in? I replaced that recently unless there is some other filter. Just to note coil#1 5KW is new and changed last month other 2 coils are old and looks little sticky specially coil#2. I am thinking to change other two coils #2 and #3 to new to see if this helps. Can you please tell me where to get the push connectors and the good strand copper wire? I see some black color shades near connector but ohm meter says they are good and continuity works so not broken but I am thinking to change wires with push connectors for most of them.
+snehalshankar The sequencer turns on the elements after a time delay. The filter is mounted in the return air of the ductwork. No other filter. The 1/4" push on connectors (12-10AWG) are available at electrical outlets. The wire should be #10 105C temp rating. I would replace the connectors is they show signs of discoloration. Hope this helps. GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thanks GFM for part no for wire and connector. As you suggested I will replace wires. I noticed the current wires get so much hot so turn black on edges of connector not sure that causing the thermal link to blow. So no need of restring the other two 5KW coils?
I got a new heat strip kit for a Rheem. Its a 15kw kit and it came with 2 (two) 60amp breakers installed on the kit. I have 100amp breaker at main box with single feed coming to air handler. I have the breaker jumper for the 1 supply 2 breaker configuration. 2 heating elements are connected to 1 60 amp breaker and the other 60 amp breaker has 1 element connected. Shouldn't the single element and blower motor be connected to a 30amp instead of a 60? Thanks
Usually, they are. If it is the factory kit for your furnace (on older furnaces that can be kind of a joke), it should work. The 100 amp breaker is there to protect the field installed wire, not the furnace. My opinion is go for it. GFM
I have a furnace element heats up cycles on and of but fan won’t run. Then fan will function normal sometimes for a week and stop running again any ideas?
do u have a facebook? so i can go live with u and u can talk me through my problem its a payne airhandler electric heat strip and im telling u its rigged ive been trying to figure it out for a week now been through 2 sequencer 2 ttats and 2 relays please help!!!!!
Really need some help all the other videos on TH-cam are for newer furnaces. I have about the same furnace you had in the video I cross some wires with the common wire now something went wrong and now it dose nothing. I know on the newer furnace is you would probably only have to replace the fuse but I have older furnace what would I have to replace. Please help
isaias torres Did you change some of the power leads? If there are 2 or more circuits, you could have the same side of line to both sides of the circuit. Let me know what you changed. GFM
I'm trying to take out a gas furnace and put in an electric furnace but my element has six wires into a male fitting but the funace doesn't have a female fitting. I can't figure out where the fitting plugs into the furnace?
You could have a build up of lime covering the element. If it continues, it will burn out the element. Mostly it means a new heater. You can try removing the element and scooping out the lime. Pretty long job. GFM
Thanks for the video. We’re installing a used electric furnace. Now we are running the main power to the unit and we can’t find a grounding bar or where to connect our 6ga ground wire. We looked pretty good but can’t figure it out.
@@jeffsond Most electric furnaces do not have a neutral. They operate on 240 volts only. In any case, the neutral should not be connected to the chassis. GFM
I'm working on a very similar heating system of 1979 or so vintage. It doesn't have any sequencers, but does have a couple of Robertshaw relays (TDS-3LA and TDS-3GA) that look to be relatively new. Did a visual inspection of heating elements (3) and can't find any breaks. Limit switches do not appear to have overheated. Tested fuses and they all check out. Suggestions? Carrier system BTW
@@grayfurnaceman After some additional reading I've discovered the Robertshaw TDS-3LA IS a sequencer. In testing the 24v side it appears that the sequencer heater element has failed and is not activating the 220v side and the second sequencer (Robertshaw TDS-3GA). One parts house lists a White Rogers 24A34-6 as a replacement for the 3LA and presumably the 3GA. Have you had any experience in making a swap like this?
thank you for the video. my electric furnace smells funny when it comes on, like burning electronics. So I was gunna call to have it looked at, serviced, or replaced. It is 30 years old and I live in a mobile home.
Costello heating and cooling installed a new furnace. They installed a Goodman mbr1200aa-1 ac, or tried to install. Very disappointed and frustrated. The owner, Gene, gave us a estimate. Then the next day had 2 young guys install the furnace. They did not know what they were doing. The job was supposed to take less than two hours. They worked from 9am to 2pm with the job not completed. After they got "done" wiring the furnace, they flipped the Goodman breaker then flipped the main breaker.... sparked started flying, lit up the house! They wired it wrong and screwed up my new furnace. The owner went to go get a circuit board and came back around 6pm. During that time, the Goodman was left running, blower did not shut off and the furnace heat did not shut off either. So for hours the thermostat was set at 63 degrees Fahrenheit and the temperature in the house kept raising up to 88 degrees. Unbearable and the breaker was too hot to touch to shut it off. The owner arrived around 6pm to fix everything, the circuit board part, then realized he needs another part, a relay. Left to go get the relay, and came back around 8pm. He got the furnace up and running on 1 element. So it didn't blow hot air, and it's 19 degrees outside! He said he would come back tomorrow with a contact and hook up the 2nd element. Very frustrating and scary. I would like a new furnace, one that didn't have sparks flying out of it, which could shorten it's life or damage the furnace. And a new blower, one that wasn't running nonstop for 6 hours, what a break in cycle! Last but not least, when they removed the old furnace, there was a door. Now they took that and are not supplying us with a door. When I asked about a furnace door, he said "put a sheet up". Not only is the unsafe and a fire hazard, but ugly and unprofessional. I need a door so kids don't get hurt or my cat doesn't jump up and get hurt. I paid all that money and you took and used my warranty AND I don't have a cover/door. $ 2,200 Goodman electric furnace 10kw MBR1200AA-1 ac serial number 1602059038
I have a 2 circuit Electical heater 15K in my air handler Trane Gam 5 Installed 6/15 . It has 3 heater Relays A -B- C . A&C heater coils are on circuit 1. # 1 htr A coil is connected to relay A . # 2 htr C coil is connected to relay C Coil 2c glows and cycles on and off and appears to work(blower door is off) to view ... Heater 1A coil never llights up. Nor does Heater coil 2B . they never cycle on even in Emer setting .When htr coil 1 lights there is 24v at relay C lower pins and 240 at top 4 pins . No other relays show and voltage at all . Check the 2 CTCOs? Or 2 NTCOs? Very difficult to get meter on to pins . Continuity was good on htr coils as far as I could hook meter. Hope I havent confused the wording? Please,, whats your take ? Thank you
+oldtimedrumcorps I usually check these things hot. So be very careful. First check amperage with clamp on meter. No amp draw, there is an open somewhere. Then voltage across all switches. If voltage is read, switch is open. Voltage at the element and no amp draw, either element is open or the element fuse inside is open. Hope this helps. GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thank you you have confirmed troubleshooting guide that states if 24 vac to 4 pin connector wh to pb and pk to pb . then use clamp on amp meter on relay. Right on relay? was what I didnt quite understand . I need a clamp on Amp meter Thank you and I will keep you posted .
+oldtimedrumcorps Problem solved Just what the schematic showed . Relay Band C was not energized with 24 volts to open . There was two wires from relays that needed to be jump wired to white to complete relay circuit . All elements are now on . The service tech fiest checked AMP{ draw and knew something was wrong as he was only showing 20 amps when it should have showed 40. I did not have a clamp on Amp Meter. First Tech never checked amp draw and from then his evaluation went downhill . Thank you !
I have a surefire 101ce When using the electic evrey once and awhile it will start short cycling. As its doing this the furnace/elements are still heating up, creating alot of heat best the fan only cycles for 20sec or so. Was wondering what you might think? thanks
@@grayfurnaceman Well i swapped the one(thermostat) from the wood damper with the electric one(have a 2 thermostat system) they are the same and ended up getting the same problem after. This doesnt happen all the time just he now and then. When running wood we've never had a problem with the fan shutting off ever and will run for days sometimes as we are in Northern Ontario and winters are cold haha. But when this has happened ive pulled the manual fan tab on the limit switch and the fan runs fine, just to get the temp down from the elements.
raherahe The limit switch is made to occasionally open on high temp. If it has to open regulary, such as with a plugged filter, will fail. It may fail open or closed. If it fails closed, the element may cause a fire. So as an ultimate shut down, the fuse blows and shuts it down permanently. GFM
As a general rule, electric furnaces will have a 240 volt motor. As with any electric appliance, they can be ordered with any voltage from 120 volt to 440 volt. GFM
ok, so I know someone who just had their heater wiring catch fire and it needs replacing. the a coil might be good, might not be though. I talked to a guy that said it would be $1300 to replace the furnace. is that a fair price?
The price for the furnace is not so bad. However, electric furnaces seldom need to be replaced. Most every part is available and it can be repaired. Merry Christmas GFM
A low voltage transformer that needs a sequencer?... correct? Is it possible to put a capacitor on the output side of the transformer to prevent that pull down? Just a thought.
grayfurnaceman, I understand that, but if the draw is too much for the transformer then it needs something. I take it that's what the sequencer is for to reduce that instant draw??? If the draw is too much at once then a capacitor on the output side of the transformer would reduce that instant draw. All your basic pwm power supplies have a capacitor for that very reason, I wouldn't think this would be any different.
It is very different. A PWM power supply produces DC. The capacitors are there to smooth the pulsing DC. The transformer is AC. A capacitor would be useless. If the sequencer heater does have high initial draw, the transformer will absorb the high draw. The transformer will only fail if its draw is excessive continuously. GFM
grayfurnaceman, true a pwm PSU, at that stage is DC, however the circuit down stream of the cap still modulates, that's the purpose of the cap to prevent under current in a modulating circuit. There's also caps that work on AC circuits, they're used in both AC and DC.
Great video my problem is the furnace comes on then the blower shuts down,you can hear it click and try but does not,you can wait awhile and turn the thermostat up and same thing happens,any help is apreciated. @bbinva
Don't know how ---unfortunately the furnace is at my daughters in S.C. and I am in VA. Son in law is not real handy with anything. I could try a few things if i were there.Do you mean dypass the thermostat?
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much for the explanation. I appreciate the help and understanding 🙏.
i have also worked on tons of these things,the seq. is the 1st thing to ck,i have replaced so many of them,some later models came with contactors,then relay with small printed board on the relay,but the seq. controls are the worse things sometimes,they have that little small metal disc in them that when 24v energized heat rises it to activate the seq,crazy idea but some have lasted for yrs before they go bad,i really dont see how they last as long as some do,great video,thanks
Looking forward to more troubleshooting videos on electric furnaces. I would like to know what voltages I should be getting where, how to check for broken elements, and how heat pumps work together/ at the same time as an electric furnace. Thanks! I learn a lot from these videos and I've been in the field for a year and half.
Thank you for your video it help a lot
Had one manual sitting close by going back to 1970 for Intertherm Electric and late 60's for Gas. Will look through some more to see if I can locate the other old ones. Seen them not long ago, so they are here somewhere . Take care, Brett
Thank you for the videos, i really enjoy them,they help me out more than you know,i like the way u explain things,i have got a lot from all these videos,they keep my mind working,i try to always comment,and 1 more thing i have had to rewire several of the elec. furns when the drain clogged and dripped water in the controls and burnt wiring and all controls,a lot of them so old the diagrams gone,thats when it gets to be a little hard,good thing they are fairly simple elec furns , thank as always!
They were probably the worst but most common of the sequencers. occasionally they would burn up and make quite the mess. I found quiet operating contactors made by honeywell that could be used and I never had a failure after that. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
Give me a day or so. I will do a short vid on backup heat that hopefully will help.
GFM
If you have one for an early 60s Intertherm electric, I would love that. Thanks for the offer.
GFM
I do have more coming on electrics. Thanks for the support.
GFM
Great video and keep up the good work. Your videos are a big help
What would cause our heater to keep gettin stuck on for long times. And today it's went out completely 😊
Are you Hank Hill?
charles turner come on, man... Everyone knows Hank only deals with propane.
I was going to be so disappointed if no one questioned if this was hank hill or not and then the he only does proprane comment haha... why i love the comments man!
Hank wouldn't be caught dead working with electric heat.
Hwhat
You always have good info. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
Sequencers and burned/loose connections are my most common electric furnace issues. I'd like to see sequencers disappear. They're easily prone to failure. I'd prefer a single contactor or even a solid state relay (pretty expensive but silent)
Lots of units use relays and I think they work well. Old trane units use contactors and I’ve encountered a lot of contactor hum that gets very annoying. When it comes to explaining something to a customer I would much rather tell a customer a sequencer is bad then tell them their contactor is working but is making noise and the only solution is to replace.
Unfortunately, I cannot remember the model#. It was the most complex electric furnace I ever saw and it was used exclusively in mobile homes.
GFM
Why does my old 80's ruud have a resistor that hooks to the contactor from the element? Mine keeps burning one 120v leg. I get plenty voltage from the 24v transformer. Think the sequencer or resistor by the element could be the problem? I use a laser thermometer and its only the one leg that heats fast at the breaker like to 200 in 2 min. All my connections have been checked & cleaned. These elements seem to have constant power straight from the power source to the thermo disk to the elements and I'm guessing activated by that resistor somehow? They don't heat when the furnace is off even though they have power. Anyway I'm guessing and wandering from someone that has experienced with these old ruud. I'm stumped and been chasing my tail over and over. Pros are rare here and parts are 1.5 hour each way drive. Any help would be GREATLY GREATLY appreciated. Thanks for your videos
Would a sequencer cause me not to get 24 volta
Can you tell me what would cause a blower motor to keep running on the electric furnace after the heat strips are off. Blower won't stop even after heat strips shut down; Thanks and love you youtube.
+Joseph Dailey Probably a stuck sequencer. The M1 and M2 contacts will start and stop the fan and usually the first element. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman thanks a lot and I love your you tubes
Love the videos u make. I'm not the handiest person but with these videos I am able to figure my problems out on my own. Hate paying for what I can learn and do. Without people like you I would have a much harder time learning. Thanks so much for your time!!!!
Welcome
GFM
Great and thank you
Why is my electric furnace so noisy! I have to turn up the TV when it comes on. The blower is on the lowest setting. Can anything be done?
Unless you have a plugged filter or some other restriction, there is nothing you can do.
GFM
I have a vintage G.E. electric wall heater with the coils and a fan. How can I add a thermostat to it. All it has is a off on knob and one for the temp that has no numbers.
First, throw it away. most of these heaters with exposed coils are quite dangerous to use due to fire hazard.
The knob for temp is also a limit that gives a small safety margin for overheat.
If you must install a thermostat, it must be installed in series with the original thermostat.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman is there a new stile I can replace it with? I'd like to upgrade the room.
@@williamhiggs9646 There are many wall heaters, most use a fan to force the air. Much safer. The size won't be the same but any home store will have them.
GFM
My electric mobile home heater blowing cold air what is the problem it's freezing help ?
First, check for plugged filter. Then check all breakers related to the furnace. There may be several in the panel and in the furnace. Turn them off, then back on.
If all is ok, it gets more complicated. You could have burned off wires in the furnace, failed elements or sequencers may have failed.
When I get one from the junk pile I will.
GFM
If anyone ever needs a wiring diagram for one by chance, give me a shout. Chances are I have one. Lots of old service manuals for them dating back to he 60's and 70's,lol. Great video series GFM as always. Take care, Brett
where is wire coming from which goes which
All I can give you is a link to my electric furnace playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLItXrh64d2JOEOk-99TDdGHnNfB18YgnW.html
GFM
I'm gonna take a chance here and see if I get an answer. I checked a 20 kw today, and only the top 2 elements come on and the bottom 2 don't. I took the wires off to check for continuity on the sequencer and my meter beeped meaning "good". Then I checked the limit switches and they also beeped, and lastly the elements themselves and also beep. Both breakers show 240 volt. I'm at a lost on this one. Should I ohm it out instead of continuity?
Put away your ohmmeter. It is the last tool to be used in troubleshooting.
Get out your clamp-meter first. Check amp draw on each element. When you determine which are not energizing, use your voltmeter.
Check for voltage at the source of each circuit. Then check at the load. If you read the proper voltage at the source, and not at the load, then check each switch in the circuit. With these type of circuits, this simple method is foolproof.
GFM
These dating back to 11/70 are MAC models. Brett
omg I can't get my sequencer wired up I'm bout to loose it
Can I please get your opinion on something? I have an electric furnace and I've had someone come look at it and he said everything was fine, but the heat that comes through the vents is luke warm. He said that's just part of having an electric heater but my electric bill goes through the roof in the winter and I only even run the central heat at night. What should I do? Should I get someone else to look at my furnace or is that just the luck of having electric and not gas?
If it is an electric furnace and not a heat pump, it should have about the same duct temperature as gas. There could be one or more of the elements not working. That would cause the low duct temp.
GFM
What kind of electric heater furnace would you recommend for a 1700 square foot home?
The square footage is only one of many factors to take into account. You need to do a heat loss calculation for the home before deciding on that one. There are some simple ones on the internet. Hope thisd helps.
GFM
My electric heater is on for like 30 minutes then the breaker breaks on the panel .. My a/c doesn't have this problem. What could be the issue.
First, I would check the breaker terminal for tight. The terminal should be very tight. If it continues, the breaker may be failing.
GFM
I have a Norton electric furnace with 3 elements , why does my furnace fan not go to high speed, the switch is set to high heat ?????
Most electric furnaces have only one fan speed for heat.
GFM
What is the sequence of operation on an electric furnace?
SombraLocs I covered this in this video: th-cam.com/video/Sn5zye-wIBI/w-d-xo.html Hope it helps.
GFM
Heat constantly running even with thermostat off.... Stuck sequencer?
Probably
GFM
It's great to have an electric furnace to warm up your home. Unlike gas furnaces they can generate heat with heating elements.
My home is a 1984 Mobile Home all electric.
I bought the heater elements setup to replace my heater elements on EBay. I didnt know what I was doing which is par for the course. My heating element has 3 coils and a Fuse Box. The Old Elements were just disintegrating. When I went to replace the wiring it started falling apart in my hands.
I found one on EBay for $220 that had circuit breakers which meant I could replace the fuse box. (The box is OK because I changed it out 15 years ago). These elements had relays and limit switches everything was attached. 2 wires for the control board that hooks up to the AC RELAYS and 4 wires for the DC Relays. 2 wires to hook up to the fan switch.
Today I started looking at the Schematics for the new Element System AND ALSO the schematic for my old system. WHERE IS THE DC? That was what jumped out at me.
oh oh. The new elements have DC Relays on the Black wires and AC Relays on the Red wires.
So What do I do Send it back? Or is there a Control Panel I could buy with a DC power supply on it that I could buy or what?
Something about being 78 on verge of Alzheimers is basis of what I will have to plead should the house burn down I guess.
What should I do?
What brand and model #?
GFM
intertherm F000993043. Am sending back the unit I ordered because it has DC relays, it is the wrong one. Tomorrow I am going to try to get a Resting Kit, I need one with the ceramic Ends because mine are broken.
grayfurnaceman. I have an electric furnace in my mobile home its on but is only blowing cold air .do you know what could be wrong and how to fix it
I bought an old upflow furnace but I need a downflow, can I simply turn it upside down?
If its electric, yes.
GFM
I have a Electric York funance , about 6 years old. My Ac coil on my furance was really dirty, so freeze. So, my blower fan was running all the time. I open my planum as say only 1 stage of 2 element working. I replace both Limit switch.... but still the same thing... i replace the motor board , same thing... i do have 4 relays.. i change 3.. still the same thing.... my fans still ON ans dont stop... blower is on safaty mode.. on the board.. it flash 3 time. Im not an expert on electricty.. but each relay seem to work fine BuT.. not sur if its normal. One have 110V all tbe time.. the second / 3 and 4 got 110 Volt only few second after the thermpstaht ask for heat.. and you can hear the " click ".. .. 110 Volt to each Element.. i got feeling 1 stage is of element not working du to overheating...
Anything i shoud check? Any idea ? Sorry for my english
If you are seeing 120 volts, you are probably testing to chassis. If so, you will always see voltage. The furnace runs on 240 volts. Check voltage across the switches to determine which has failed.
GFM
Your heat strip is very simple! Mine, a Mortex BMH-55-15 is a bit more complicated. I appreciate the videos though. I watched almost all of them and think I am going to start with replacing the sequencer.
Everything was the same the only thing I did was add another wire to the common post and now I dont have any power on the furnace. My thermostat says I don't have any power coming out from my furnace
Don't do it .back away from the unit.go down to the next college and take a class in wiring.thanks and have a blessed day.
wonderful information on changing over to an electric furnace 🧐 thanks now in 2022 which DIY brands to pick from for home use?
Trying to help a buddy that is in a town without a service tech. Norton Broan electric furnace and he turns it on heat and nothing happens and he turn the fan on and it comes on. I got him to jump r&w at the thermostat and nothing happens. I don't know much about electric furnaces is there anything that would be likely to be the problem? Thanks in advance
First, I would check my "electric furnace" playlist. It has some training on electrics.
No heat at all, check for low voltage at the thermostat.
GFM
I will check deeper into your playlist for sure. If I had him jump r&w and it still isn't working that I don't think it can be the thermostat. Thank you for the reply
Sucker sounds like Hank Hill
This was a lucky find today for me, I have an 1982 York blower both ac and heat with pump. I have an issue with the blower thinking it's on heat when it's on AC. I was told it was the control board and have tried finding it to replace and was told the part was discontinued. However after watching this video. I'm wondering if it not the control board but a sequencer instead. I've replaced the thermostat and ac works fine. But in order to get the AC working I had to disconnect the wires for heat on the control board.wondering if you could shed some light on this matter thanks Birdie
why not start with looking at the thermostat terminals it probably has the wires reversed
What is the proper way to hook furnace up to breaker box.Furnace max 80 amp it has to 40 amp breakers in the furnace
You can either use one conductor of 80 amps capacity or 2 conductors of 40 amp capacity.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman ok I may just us a #4 awg and just run one wire to double 40 amp instead of two #6 awg wires to 2 40 amp breakers thanks.Better to run just one #4 awg wire and that should carry my 80 amps.
Just had a new Coleman electric furnace installed with a 3 ton unit outside the weird thing is the blower will continue to blow after the air conditioner shuts off at lower speed it also does it with the heater the installer told me that was the way it would work before he left.
Give me a few days and I'll pull them out and see how many different ones I have. When I was selling parts online, we were well known for old obsolete parts and wiring diagrams. Take care, Brett
Can you please tell me where can I find model name/number for my furnace. I'm trying to order a new heating element as half my element comes on (gets red) but other half doesn't. It's an old unit I'm not sure if I can find a replacement heating element for it. Can i rewire my current element ? And how ?
Thanks
Make and model are in various places but most are on the panel you remove to get to the elements. Some elements can be rewired if the element runs thru circular ceramic insulators. Check my channel, I have a video on how to rewire an element.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thanks
If a person is building and buying a new 15 kw electric furnace with air conditioning? What brand/model furnace would be one of the best to buy? Considering durability, ease of repair, cost of parts, and lastly initial cost?
The best I know of is Trane.
GFM
Gary I want to install a iceco model 14AHJ11S01C01 downflow heat only for a crawl space. Never installed electric before. Do I have to use a heat pump or is it built into device? Also I'm not hooking to Central Air conditioning. Just heat so is pump necessary or just fan across the coils? geomessler at hotmail.
Thanks
You do not need a heat pump. The unit should have electric elements.
GFM
My dad's furnace works fine until he tries to use the Emergency heat, it doesn't work. What should I check?
when replacing the seq with contactors,even using quiet contactors,they will get louder with time,but a lot less problems,and the contacter needs to be heavy duty not 30amp for cond,i have run across this and the 30 amp wont do for heat strips they burn up in no time at all,great video,cant wait for the next 1,keep em coming,thanks
Any possibility of wiring 3ph heat element to 1ph (2 hots and ground)
I have a 2300 sq. ft. home with 2 10kw electric heat furnaces. My upstairs furnace keeps blowing the 60w fuses. Can you tell me what causes that?
Good possibility that the wires to the fuses are loose or the fuse clamps are loose.
GFM
Well.. All the relay are new. Im not an electric expert.. but when i test the resistance for each element.. i go 0 resitance where my first 110V come from.. and 12.2 if cross , witch is normal...
I got 4 Relay. Each relay give 110V to the element ( black wire) stop and go , id jeating is call.. Each element have 110V on the other end... power from al relay ( yellow wire )
You are still reading 120 volts. The unit runs on 240. If you are checking from the terminal to chassis, the reading is meaningless.
GFM
put on new thermostat and now heater will not work. put old thermostat back on and still nothing. Smelled something burnt. Any suggestions on what to check?
Check the low voltage. You may have shorted the transformer. That would be the smell.
GFM
The electric heater I have in my condominium has 3 coils with thermal link fuse between coil and limit switch for all three. In last one week coil#1 thermal link fuse got open which stopped coil heating. I replaced with new thermal link fuse and coil started heating. It opened again today so I am not sure what is going wrong. Its 5KW coil with 250V/15AMP TF152degC. Is this thermal link important can I directly connect heating coil to limit switch like the one you have in your video, would there be any problem?
+snehalshankar Not only no, but heck no on the bypass. Unsafe. There are 2 reasons for the link to open. Low airflow from plugged filter, dirty blower wheel. Or an element sticking on due to sequencer stuck closed. Let me know what you find.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thanks GFM for your quick reply. I really appreciate it. When I opened it yesterday to replace thermal link fuse I saw that heater coil#2 and #3 where not getting heated up much like coil#1 was. I see all three getting heated little differently like coil#1 is most then 2 is mild and 3 is less, is this the real experience or all 3 coils should heat up same at different times based on sequencer? Blower wheel looks good and no dust. I am not sure about what plugged filter means is it the filter 20 by 20 by 1 which is for air flow in? I replaced that recently unless there is some other filter. Just to note coil#1 5KW is new and changed last month other 2 coils are old and looks little sticky specially coil#2. I am thinking to change other two coils #2 and #3 to new to see if this helps. Can you please tell me where to get the push connectors and the good strand copper wire? I see some black color shades near connector but ohm meter says they are good and continuity works so not broken but I am thinking to change wires with push connectors for most of them.
+snehalshankar The sequencer turns on the elements after a time delay. The filter is mounted in the return air of the ductwork. No other filter. The 1/4" push on connectors (12-10AWG) are available at electrical outlets. The wire should be #10 105C temp rating. I would replace the connectors is they show signs of discoloration. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thanks GFM for part no for wire and connector. As you suggested I will replace wires. I noticed the current wires get so much hot so turn black on edges of connector not sure that causing the thermal link to blow. So no need of restring the other two 5KW coils?
+snehalshankar Not if they are working.
GFM
I got a new heat strip kit for a Rheem. Its a 15kw kit and it came with 2 (two) 60amp breakers installed on the kit. I have 100amp breaker at main box with single feed coming to air handler. I have the breaker jumper for the 1 supply 2 breaker configuration. 2 heating elements are connected to 1 60 amp breaker and the other 60 amp breaker has 1 element connected. Shouldn't the single element and blower motor be connected to a 30amp instead of a 60? Thanks
Usually, they are. If it is the factory kit for your furnace (on older furnaces that can be kind of a joke), it should work. The 100 amp breaker is there to protect the field installed wire, not the furnace. My opinion is go for it.
GFM
I have a furnace element heats up cycles on and of but fan won’t run. Then fan will function normal sometimes for a week and stop running again any ideas?
Check bearings to see if they are tight. Also be sure there are no connection problems in the fan wiring.
GFM
do u have a facebook? so i can go live with u and u can talk me through my problem its a payne airhandler electric heat strip and im telling u its rigged ive been trying to figure it out for a week now been through 2 sequencer 2 ttats and 2 relays please help!!!!!
Try sending pics to grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
Really need some help all the other videos on TH-cam are for newer furnaces. I have about the same furnace you had in the video I cross some wires with the common wire now something went wrong and now it dose nothing. I know on the newer furnace is you would probably only have to replace the fuse but I have older furnace what would I have to replace. Please help
isaias torres Did you change some of the power leads? If there are 2 or more circuits, you could have the same side of line to both sides of the circuit. Let me know what you changed. GFM
I'm trying to take out a gas furnace and put in an electric furnace but my element has six wires into a male fitting but the funace doesn't have a female fitting. I can't figure out where the fitting plugs into the furnace?
Kristie Hughes Can you send a pic of the plugs? Send it to grayfurnaceman@gmail.com
GFM
American Standard elec heater makes loud ticking noises, which component is causing that? What could be the issue?
You could have a build up of lime covering the element. If it continues, it will burn out the element. Mostly it means a new heater. You can try removing the element and scooping out the lime. Pretty long job.
GFM
Great!!
GFM
Does the Contactor do the same as a Sequencer? Because I don't have any Sequencers on my Electric heat pump unit?
Yes. Many units, notably Trane uses contactors.
GFM
Great to see that Avasva has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
Thanks for the video. We’re installing a used electric furnace. Now we are running the main power to the unit and we can’t find a grounding bar or where to connect our 6ga ground wire. We looked pretty good but can’t figure it out.
If there is no grounding lug, you can buy one at an electric supply store. You must connect ground the chassis.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks, Can I
do the same for the neutral? We couldn’t figure out where it went also
@@jeffsond Most electric furnaces do not have a neutral. They operate on 240 volts only. In any case, the neutral should not be connected to the chassis.
GFM
I'm working on a very similar heating system of 1979 or so vintage. It doesn't have any sequencers, but does have a couple of Robertshaw relays (TDS-3LA and TDS-3GA) that look to be relatively new. Did a visual inspection of heating elements (3) and can't find any breaks. Limit switches do not appear to have overheated. Tested fuses and they all check out. Suggestions? Carrier system BTW
Most your testing should be done while the unit is operating. amp draw, duct temp rise. Be sure all wiring terminals are tight.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman After some additional reading I've discovered the Robertshaw TDS-3LA IS a sequencer. In testing the 24v side it appears that the sequencer heater element has failed and is not activating the 220v side and the second sequencer (Robertshaw TDS-3GA). One parts house lists a White Rogers 24A34-6 as a replacement for the 3LA and presumably the 3GA. Have you had any experience in making a swap like this?
@@bluiewest1 I can't say I recognize the Robertshaw number, but if you have 4 elements in your furnace, the White Rodgers unit will work.
GFM
thank you for the video. my electric furnace smells funny when it comes on, like burning electronics. So I was gunna call to have it looked at, serviced, or replaced. It is 30 years old and I live in a mobile home.
Costello heating and cooling installed a new furnace. They installed a Goodman mbr1200aa-1 ac, or tried to install. Very disappointed and frustrated. The owner, Gene, gave us a estimate. Then the next day had 2 young guys install the furnace. They did not know what they were doing. The job was supposed to take less than two hours. They worked from 9am to 2pm with the job not completed.
After they got "done" wiring the furnace, they flipped the Goodman breaker then flipped the main breaker.... sparked started flying, lit up the house! They wired it wrong and screwed up my new furnace.
The owner went to go get a circuit board and came back around 6pm. During that time, the Goodman was left running, blower did not shut off and the furnace heat did not shut off either. So for hours the thermostat was set at 63 degrees Fahrenheit and the temperature in the house kept raising up to 88 degrees. Unbearable and the breaker was too hot to touch to shut it off.
The owner arrived around 6pm to fix everything, the circuit board part, then realized he needs another part, a relay. Left to go get the relay, and came back around 8pm.
He got the furnace up and running on 1 element. So it didn't blow hot air, and it's 19 degrees outside! He said he would come back tomorrow with a contact and hook up the 2nd element.
Very frustrating and scary.
I would like a new furnace, one that didn't have sparks flying out of it, which could shorten it's life or damage the furnace. And a new blower, one that wasn't running nonstop for 6 hours, what a break in cycle!
Last but not least, when they removed the old furnace, there was a door. Now they took that and are not supplying us with a door. When I asked about a furnace door, he said "put a sheet up". Not only is the unsafe and a fire hazard, but ugly and unprofessional. I need a door so kids don't get hurt or my cat doesn't jump up and get hurt.
I paid all that money and you took and used my warranty AND I don't have a cover/door.
$ 2,200
Goodman electric furnace 10kw MBR1200AA-1 ac serial number 1602059038
I have a 2 circuit Electical heater 15K in my air handler Trane Gam 5 Installed 6/15 . It has 3 heater Relays A -B- C . A&C heater coils are on circuit 1. # 1 htr A coil is connected to relay A . # 2 htr C coil is connected to relay C Coil 2c glows and cycles on and off and appears to work(blower door is off) to view ... Heater 1A coil never llights up. Nor does Heater coil 2B . they never cycle on even in Emer setting .When htr coil 1 lights there is 24v at relay C lower pins and 240 at top 4 pins . No other relays show and voltage at all . Check the 2 CTCOs? Or 2 NTCOs? Very difficult to get meter on to pins . Continuity was good on htr coils as far as I could hook meter. Hope I havent confused the wording? Please,, whats your take ? Thank you
+oldtimedrumcorps I usually check these things hot. So be very careful. First check amperage with clamp on meter. No amp draw, there is an open somewhere. Then voltage across all switches. If voltage is read, switch is open. Voltage at the element and no amp draw, either element is open or the element fuse inside is open. Hope this helps.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thank you you have confirmed troubleshooting guide that states if 24 vac to 4 pin connector wh to pb and pk to pb . then use clamp on amp meter on relay. Right on relay? was what I didnt quite understand . I need a clamp on Amp meter Thank you and I will keep you posted .
+oldtimedrumcorps Problem solved Just what the schematic showed . Relay Band C was not energized with 24 volts to open . There was two wires from relays that needed to be jump wired to white to complete relay circuit . All elements are now on . The service tech fiest checked AMP{ draw and knew something was wrong as he was only showing 20 amps when it should have showed 40. I did not have a clamp on Amp Meter. First Tech never checked amp draw and from then his evaluation went downhill . Thank you !
Awsome simple video. Hooking up a new electric furnace and from what i understood is that the thermostat hooks up to r and w1. Is that right?
You got it.
GFM
I have a surefire 101ce When using the electic evrey once and awhile it will start short cycling. As its doing this the furnace/elements are still heating up, creating alot of heat best the fan only cycles for 20sec or so. Was wondering what you might think? thanks
First, I would jumper the thermostat terminals to see if it is the thermostat. You could also have a problem with the fan overheating.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Well i swapped the one(thermostat) from the wood damper with the electric one(have a 2 thermostat system) they are the same and ended up getting the same problem after. This doesnt happen all the time just he now and then. When running wood we've never had a problem with the fan shutting off ever and will run for days sometimes as we are in Northern Ontario and winters are cold haha. But when this has happened ive pulled the manual fan tab on the limit switch and the fan runs fine, just to get the temp down from the elements.
@@joe281977 Its possible the the fan is overdrawing power and shutting down.
GFM
The advantage of a stack sequencer is that they make less noise when it opens and closes the contacts than does a contactor.
Honeywell make quiet operating contactors that work well for electric furnaces.
GFM
It seems that a fusible link and an overload limit both detect high temps, so why do you need both when the both safety's seem to do the same thing?
raherahe The limit switch is made to occasionally open on high temp. If it has to open regulary, such as with a plugged filter, will fail. It may fail open or closed. If it fails closed, the element may cause a fire. So as an ultimate shut down, the fuse blows and shuts it down permanently.
GFM
Thanks!
Do the breakers have to be on if we are running the ac only?
Yes.
GFM
is a heating furnace better than central heat and air unit in your opinion?
I am not sure of your meaning. Are you meaning single source such as a wood stove compared to a ducted heating system?
Can you do a video on a Three phase heater pack? How it's wired, The difference between Y And Delta, And trouble shooting?
That is one I have been meaning to do. Should be by the end of summer.
GFM
grayfurnaceman that would be great! I always get confused when I get to one of those.
if I needed to run a common wire what would I need to do?
Does all electric furnaces have 220 volt blower motors?
As a general rule, electric furnaces will have a 240 volt motor. As with any electric appliance, they can be ordered with any voltage from 120 volt to 440 volt.
GFM
Wiring the double breaker furnace to the service box need help
What is the specific problem?
GFM
grayfurnaceman do we need to run separate lines from each breaker or do I need a jumper
ok, so I know someone who just had their heater wiring catch fire and it needs replacing. the a coil might be good, might not be though.
I talked to a guy that said it would be $1300 to replace the furnace.
is that a fair price?
Is this an electric furnace?
GFM
yes, 15.8 kw unit
The price for the furnace is not so bad. However, electric furnaces seldom need to be replaced. Most every part is available and it can be repaired. Merry Christmas
GFM
ah, Roger. ty for the feedback. ill look and see if that's our best option. merry Christmas!
spunkyprep good to know
Can u make a vid of a air handler?
A low voltage transformer that needs a sequencer?... correct? Is it possible to put a capacitor on the output side of the transformer to prevent that pull down? Just a thought.
The transformer does not need a sequencer. The sequencer is there to limit the instant amperage draw on the pole transformer.
GFM
grayfurnaceman, I understand that, but if the draw is too much for the transformer then it needs something. I take it that's what the sequencer is for to reduce that instant draw??? If the draw is too much at once then a capacitor on the output side of the transformer would reduce that instant draw. All your basic pwm power supplies have a capacitor for that very reason, I wouldn't think this would be any different.
It is very different. A PWM power supply produces DC. The capacitors are there to smooth the pulsing DC. The transformer is AC. A capacitor would be useless. If the sequencer heater does have high initial draw, the transformer will absorb the high draw. The transformer will only fail if its draw is excessive continuously.
GFM
grayfurnaceman, true a pwm PSU, at that stage is DC, however the circuit down stream of the cap still modulates, that's the purpose of the cap to prevent under current in a modulating circuit. There's also caps that work on AC circuits, they're used in both AC and DC.
interesting, thank you...
Great Video
If I was to install this unit in my home would I still need a gas or oil source?
No. Electric is fully capable of heating a structure. It does require 200 amp electrical service.
GFM
grayfurnaceman ok so basically I would still need a act and heating combo all in one?
If you are asking if you will need an air handling system, then yes. The electric furnace is both a heat source and an air handler.
GFM
Hank hill?
Great video my problem is the furnace comes on then the blower shuts down,you can hear it click and try but does not,you can wait awhile and turn the thermostat up and same thing happens,any help is apreciated. @bbinva
Mark Cregger I need a lot more than that. Electric or gas first.
GFM
Electric, coleman central elect furnace mod eb12b cut it on heat comes on and the blower but then the blower cut off.
Mark Cregger Have you tried jumping out the thermostat?
GFM
Don't know how ---unfortunately the furnace is at my daughters in S.C. and I am in VA. Son in law is not real handy with anything. I could try a few things if i were there.Do you mean dypass the thermostat?
Mark Cregger Yes.
GFM
he sounds like Kermit the frog