One of the best things about the vp44 is how easy it is to tune. I made my own tuner with an Arduino and can dial timing up to 30 and max the fuel out at full throttle. I'm planning on adding a wide band oxygen sensor next and tuning it full loop to cut smoke . Fun stuff.
Semi-retired welder-fabricator here. 1989, project was a 1987 Jaguar XJS. I removed the V-12 and TH400 (three speed!), and installed a Chevy 350 and 700R4. . I added ground straps from each head to the firewall. I added ground straps block-to-frame. I added a ground strap tailhouse-to-cross-member. . Every time I approached the Jag, I thought "This's a well-grounded vehicle!". . Last fine-tune to the mod, going to dual-exhaust, the starter rubbed on the exhaust. At the muffler shop, we altered that route to eliminate the squeak... ... and no-start. . Turned out, the only effective ground was the starter rubbing the exhaust. . Cripes.
The bosh replacement vp44 are pretty decent now they fixed a lot of the soldering and plunger problems I wouldn’t mind having a vp44 truck to go with my 12 valve😁 and like Rob said grounding is important with any vehicle. I had a transmission rebuilt in a 99 F150 and the company that did it left the ground loose on the bell housing, which caused erratic shifting tightened it up and it was good to go
My mate has had 3 VP44 failures on his D22 Navaras, each resulted in a PITA pump removal job. 1 was the timing solenoid and it was seized in it. 2 were electrickery brain farts. All 3 03-04 machines. The VE pump on his '98 D21 still works fine as do the VEs on my 200tdi engines last made in 94. So I reckon the hate is justified. Although it applies to all electrickery controlled pumps. What do electrics hate?, Heat cycles and vibration. What do diesel engines do?....
👍👍 right on feller...ecms fail too..ugh.. perhaps wise to remove it from the block and remote mount it,idk..so the vp44 gear case flange can't be modified to fit 7100 ?...at the moment ,I don't have both side by side to compare and i didn't bother comparing last spring when i vp44 deleted one...but anyway 👍👍👊
Who would you recommend buying a pump from when the day comes, and would you be willing to do a video going over all the grounds and ones you would add? I just bought a cherry 01 6 speed truck and want to go over it with a fine tooth comb
Hey rob! Awesome video! Greta topic as of lately, I take it you read my comment on your last video about my 2002 25v HO and the vp44 problems I thought I might be having. I think I've diag'd it down to the tps/ apps sensor, I still need to throw one at it and see what that does. My end goal is still to p pump swap it in the future. I want all mechanical as the end goal. A cherry 🍒 mint nicely done up and dressed up 24v HO 6 speed p pumped swaped low mileage unicorn 🦄. You touched on the all the chassis, and body grounds, and yes that is one thing I was very specific and spent some extra time doing and upgrading, and went excessive. Both optima yellow top deep cycle batts are grounded to block, body and chassis. The Engine block to chassis and body, Alternator pos (+) to both battery pos (+). ALL double ought (00 guage) done stranded oxygen free copper amplifier cable. The pos (+) to pos (+) cable linking both batts across the core support is a custom sourced 0000 guage (that's 4 ought!) huge massive piece of cable! Finding 0000 gauge copper ring terminals was tricky. Haha. But as you get the point I went excessive on electrical and grounding upgrades. Even the little ground straps from the ECM and pcm to the body ground straps I re did with bigger larger 2 or 0 guage oxygen free amp cable with nicely crimped copper ring terminal and heat shrinked ends. Even that one ground strap in the rear that grounds the bed to the frame I made bigger! I do need to find that one spot where several grounds come together on the front of the motor that are 'glued' together. That problem area comes up a lot in discussions talking about 'bad grounds' on second gen's. Most grounds are in the inner fender wells on the drivers and pass side. The ECM chassis to block, and the pcm chassis to body. Having extra larger paths to 'ground' for electricity to take back to 'home base' is always better. I spent a lot of money in amplifier/ welding cable haha. It's cheapest to buy a large spool 🧵. Of course my front and rear winch power supply's are extra large power wire. The rear winch connector I still need to do and with such a large run I want to source some 0000 guage again. It's not cheap. That's gunna be a several hundred dollar length of cable. Back to the vp's, On the Bosh electrical boards, are they easily replaced and rebuilt ? You compared a cheaper $800 'reman' to a more expensive rebuilt pump using factory OE Bosch parts. Let's say that If I know that my '02 HO does not have the original 23 year old OE Bosch pump, and that it was replaced with one say 50k ago, and most of that milage it's had a fass on it. I installed the fass 165 the first thing I did when I bought the truck and got it home. I wasn't taking any chances. I knew it had a reman pump that was installed by a shop in Denver co. It still had their sticker on it the pump. I'll have to look again and see what the sticker says. But it's got yellow marked fasteners on the pump top, so it's definitely a reman/replaced pump. How hard is the new Bosch boards to replace if you think it's just the boards and not the internals? I've seen all sorts of 'how to' vp44 videos on utube, all though I haven't went down the rabbit hole on them yet heh, maybe if the time comes? But how hard or complicated could it be? If someone else can do it I bet I could! Seriously tho. I'm educated and experienced enough to take on a p pump swap. Or to R&R a vp44. Maybe dive a video into o pump swaping a vp truck? There's all sorts of videos o it bothers for it, I'm sure you know some of the guys. Maybe VE swaping a vp44 truck?! I think it would be a viable idea, being as p pumps are getting scarce and harder to get ahold of with out spending a chunk of change. VE pumps are a Dime a dozen and for someone that isn't interested in 1000+ hp and is ok with keeping it reliable in the 300-500hp range a VE rotary pump with reliably and easily support that whole being mechanical, simple, easy and ditched the electronics that are a on a vp44 pump. Are the gear cases different from a first gen VE 12 valve to a second gen p7100 12 valve? The secound gen 24v's and still the same as the blood form first gen's and secound gen 12v's. Heck a 24v block has the mechanical fuel pump 'window' hole in the block to run a hvlp mech pump, ironically the bracket that holds the 'carter' oe lift pumps on the 24v's covers the mech fuel pump hole in the block and is the block off plate. lol I learned this the hard way. And had to scramble to find a block off plate. Mr gasket part number #1516 $9.99 chrome Chevy big block fuel pump block off plate. Avalon's any auto parts store in stock always!
One of the best things about the vp44 is how easy it is to tune. I made my own tuner with an Arduino and can dial timing up to 30 and max the fuel out at full throttle. I'm planning on adding a wide band oxygen sensor next and tuning it full loop to cut smoke . Fun stuff.
Holy moly that's interesting! Where can I find info on that? :D
@@casmitherz Probably right here in this comment thread. Not everyone is youtube documenter of every project they take on.
I would like to see a video on a temu p-pump , a teardown of said such pump. I’m sure they are sub standard but by how much .
Semi-retired welder-fabricator here.
1989, project was a 1987 Jaguar XJS.
I removed the V-12 and TH400 (three speed!), and installed a Chevy 350 and 700R4.
.
I added ground straps from each head to the firewall.
I added ground straps block-to-frame.
I added a ground strap tailhouse-to-cross-member.
.
Every time I approached the Jag, I thought "This's a well-grounded vehicle!".
.
Last fine-tune to the mod, going to dual-exhaust, the starter rubbed on the exhaust.
At the muffler shop, we altered that route to eliminate the squeak...
... and no-start.
.
Turned out, the only effective ground was the starter rubbing the exhaust.
.
Cripes.
Not going to lie, I love the vp44.
Same
The bosh replacement vp44 are pretty decent now they fixed a lot of the soldering and plunger problems I wouldn’t mind having a vp44 truck to go with my 12 valve😁 and like Rob said grounding is important with any vehicle. I had a transmission rebuilt in a 99 F150 and the company that did it left the ground loose on the bell housing, which caused erratic shifting tightened it up and it was good to go
Vp44 gets way more hate than it deserves. Give it good fuel and they’re amazing. Can run black diesel, can be electronically tuned.
My mate has had 3 VP44 failures on his D22 Navaras, each resulted in a PITA pump removal job.
1 was the timing solenoid and it was seized in it.
2 were electrickery brain farts.
All 3 03-04 machines.
The VE pump on his '98 D21 still works fine as do the VEs on my 200tdi engines last made in 94.
So I reckon the hate is justified. Although it applies to all electrickery controlled pumps.
What do electrics hate?, Heat cycles and vibration.
What do diesel engines do?....
My 4th failed last year.
Good video. The crankshaft position sensor/circuit needs to be good with the VP44.
Previous owner replaced pump and a fass fuel pump aid. It's a badd ass pump like a VW Bosch tdi
👍👍 right on feller...ecms fail too..ugh.. perhaps wise to remove it from the block and remote mount it,idk..so the vp44 gear case flange can't be modified to fit 7100 ?...at the moment ,I don't have both side by side to compare and i didn't bother comparing last spring when i vp44 deleted one...but anyway 👍👍👊
Who would you recommend buying a pump from when the day comes, and would you be willing to do a video going over all the grounds and ones you would add? I just bought a cherry 01 6 speed truck and want to go over it with a fine tooth comb
I have had good luck with Oregon Fuel Injection. They have a website.
Blue Chip Diesel
You get a better lift pump behind it and it's the best injection pump.
Hey rob! Awesome video! Greta topic as of lately, I take it you read my comment on your last video about my 2002 25v HO and the vp44 problems I thought I might be having.
I think I've diag'd it down to the tps/ apps sensor, I still need to throw one at it and see what that does.
My end goal is still to p pump swap it in the future. I want all mechanical as the end goal. A cherry 🍒 mint nicely done up and dressed up 24v HO 6 speed p pumped swaped low mileage unicorn 🦄.
You touched on the all the chassis, and body grounds, and yes that is one thing I was very specific and spent some extra time doing and upgrading, and went excessive. Both optima yellow top deep cycle batts are grounded to block, body and chassis. The Engine block to chassis and body, Alternator pos (+) to both battery pos (+). ALL double ought (00 guage) done stranded oxygen free copper amplifier cable. The pos (+) to pos (+) cable linking both batts across the core support is a custom sourced 0000 guage (that's 4 ought!) huge massive piece of cable! Finding 0000 gauge copper ring terminals was tricky. Haha.
But as you get the point I went excessive on electrical and grounding upgrades. Even the little ground straps from the ECM and pcm to the body ground straps I re did with bigger larger 2 or 0 guage oxygen free amp cable with nicely crimped copper ring terminal and heat shrinked ends.
Even that one ground strap in the rear that grounds the bed to the frame I made bigger! I do need to find that one spot where several grounds come together on the front of the motor that are 'glued' together. That problem area comes up a lot in discussions talking about 'bad grounds' on second gen's. Most grounds are in the inner fender wells on the drivers and pass side. The ECM chassis to block, and the pcm chassis to body. Having extra larger paths to 'ground' for electricity to take back to 'home base' is always better. I spent a lot of money in amplifier/ welding cable haha. It's cheapest to buy a large spool 🧵. Of course my front and rear winch power supply's are extra large power wire. The rear winch connector I still need to do and with such a large run I want to source some 0000 guage again. It's not cheap. That's gunna be a several hundred dollar length of cable.
Back to the vp's,
On the Bosh electrical boards, are they easily replaced and rebuilt ? You compared a cheaper $800 'reman' to a more expensive rebuilt pump using factory OE Bosch parts. Let's say that If I know that my '02 HO does not have the original 23 year old OE Bosch pump, and that it was replaced with one say 50k ago, and most of that milage it's had a fass on it. I installed the fass 165 the first thing I did when I bought the truck and got it home. I wasn't taking any chances. I knew it had a reman pump that was installed by a shop in Denver co. It still had their sticker on it the pump. I'll have to look again and see what the sticker says. But it's got yellow marked fasteners on the pump top, so it's definitely a reman/replaced pump.
How hard is the new Bosch boards to replace if you think it's just the boards and not the internals? I've seen all sorts of 'how to' vp44 videos on utube, all though I haven't went down the rabbit hole on them yet heh, maybe if the time comes? But how hard or complicated could it be? If someone else can do it I bet I could! Seriously tho. I'm educated and experienced enough to take on a p pump swap. Or to R&R a vp44.
Maybe dive a video into o pump swaping a vp truck? There's all sorts of videos o it bothers for it, I'm sure you know some of the guys. Maybe VE swaping a vp44 truck?! I think it would be a viable idea, being as p pumps are getting scarce and harder to get ahold of with out spending a chunk of change. VE pumps are a Dime a dozen and for someone that isn't interested in 1000+ hp and is ok with keeping it reliable in the 300-500hp range a VE rotary pump with reliably and easily support that whole being mechanical, simple, easy and ditched the electronics that are a on a vp44 pump. Are the gear cases different from a first gen VE 12 valve to a second gen p7100 12 valve?
The secound gen 24v's and still the same as the blood form first gen's and secound gen 12v's. Heck a 24v block has the mechanical fuel pump 'window' hole in the block to run a hvlp mech pump, ironically the bracket that holds the 'carter' oe lift pumps on the 24v's covers the mech fuel pump hole in the block and is the block off plate. lol I learned this the hard way. And had to scramble to find a block off plate. Mr gasket part number #1516 $9.99 chrome Chevy big block fuel pump block off plate. Avalon's any auto parts store in stock always!
What is ur recommendation for a place to buy one ?
Vp44s we’re never as bad as they are said to be and easy to replace tons of original runs still running around
I have a Cummins ISB 5.9 24v with a CP3 pump I need to swap it to a P pump do you if this is possible?
Thank you