Nice Soldering Iron, Jake! :) I noticed that you were checking Relay 13 (Cooling Fan) instead of the missing Relay 07 (Ignition) according to the fuse box cover... been down that road before LOL!
@@autodiagyt Judging by the broken crap inside and the missing relay.. It seems like this was sabotage by a couple fighting or something. Kinda strange.. there's a story there somewhere
Truely its a nightmare to diagnose already badly diagnosed vehicle 😢..people always mess up in fuse boxes they take out fuses and relays and forgets what gose to what and where...great diag sir..cheers
It looks very similar to my xtool D8.. So maybe the xtool is also based on autel, I wouldn't doubt it. It has been a killer scanner for me since early 2022. There seems to be a race to the bottom for all these scantools. Everyone keeps adding features and dropping prices. You love to see it. :)
Thanks for another great great! Makes getting ready for work easier. This particular vid just reminded me that every ticket in my dog bowl is THAT car. Leaking fuel from a rusty line or a compound Chrysler issue car. Too bad lm nowhere near as smart as the boss thinks I am. Keep watching you & Ivan , Eric & hopefully Mr.Staton Island will get back to making videos again & smarter by the day they say.
Great video. You have shown that even the best can make a newbie mistake when you are hurrying thru and your mind is not concentrated on the task at hand.
There was a passed out crack addict leaning against my work truck with one of those power probe butane torches in his lap. I was so tempted to take it. His torch was better than mine….
Be careful when swapping relays that aren't oem. I watched a video from Darren at Mechanic Mindset about a pcm that kept getting fried due to the resistor inside the relay being the wrong rating, so when the voltage spike occurred from it shutting off, it was sending too much current to the pcm. But fixing the pcm would be an additional upsell for you 😆. Good work!
The relays in the power distribution box labeled GM are rather pathetic, because GM by rebranding the relay (GM does not make relays), has removed the relay circuit diagram which is usually found on the top of the relay, it can be moved to the side but it is usually harder to read. This diagram will tell you if the relay is one of three types, coil resistor suppression, coil diode suppression, or no suppression. There are basically three sizes of automotive 12VDC relays (Micro, Mini, and HD, all relating to contact current capability) of either 4 or 5 pin. I have about 5 of each variant (so 3x3x2 x 5 each) I think with a couple strange old GM types I have about 100 automotive relays in total in my repair kit. Most are TE connectivity, Tyco, P&B and Hella. Virtually all of the 12VDC rated automotive relays which have resistive suppression the resistor value is 680 Ohms. The engine controller that Darren's colleague blew up was made by Bosch. Which is rather surprising because most Bosch relay output driver circuits have an active clamp on-board the smart power driver IC to protect it against the coil inductive kick. The resistor is for noise suppression in the harness (like radio noise) and not to protect the PCM against the inductive coil voltage. I would really like to dig into the module that Darren showed, because I have never seen a Bosch module that did not use protected smart power driver ICs for relay control.
Ivan did one the other day in an old car (Porsche I believe).. and the relay had the same pins except it was a special relay that was wired backwards or just in a different way. So it is possible to cause issues-- but usually only on strange specialty cars. Regular domestic vehicles are generally all the same; mostly.
German automobiles can have special relay modules (relays soldered to a PCB) and combo-relays (more than 5 pins like Porsche) in addition to the more common US domestic 4 and 5 pin (Micro, Mini and HD) relays. Darren was talking about how a 5 pin relay was changed with another generic 5 pin relay and damaged a Bosch engine controller. Usually you can tell the suppression approach by looking at the wiring diagram on the top, or in the case of GM and others, on the side. If the diagram is missing many times you can just pull off the relay plastic top and see how it is designed. In traditional modern PCM design, the relay is controlled with a fully protected low side switch. This is done to protect the power IC but also to have full diagnostic coverage for OBD I. There is virtually no way to damage this driver. The output is clamped, has a current limit, ESD protection and thermal cutout. I really would like to get my hands on the module to see what failed. @@calholli
@@windward2818The one that Ivan found was an absolutely standard looking five pin relay but one of the coil pins with swapped with one of the contact pins. With the wrong relay plugged in the PCM was powering the coils (possibly injectors) directly from the PCM output that was supposed to drive only the coil. Amazingly it would actually run.
If you update your topdon the topology is more accurate. It actually says what pins the network is on now instead of labeling them power chais etc. noticed it in the update this week
“I guess the rest of the cylinder decided to come out” 😂😂😂 You should add more of that dead pan humor and acting into the videos. I’ve watched that bit a bunch of times already. 😂
Yeah but it’s hard to do when your mobile lol. I’m honestly really impressed with how good the little thing works. I do need to make the battery wire longer though.
I'm pretty sure the butane soldering gun is the same one that snapon makes. It looks exactly like mine. The tips always go bad though so I'm going to try the ts101 next.
I came across the exact same issue on a 2015 Cruze, DLC looked the same with connectors and bare copper showing, the engine had been replaced, the engine harness was a mess with bare wires everywhere, The car wasn't worth what I had in mind, spoke to the customer / lady and right off the bat, She was not interested in spending much money on repairs, I collected my call out fee and I was Out of there.!!! 😂
When I was a punk kid and worked for an Auction company, we would pick up repos. Jump pack and booster cables, full gas can, and air pig. Always dead, out of gas, and flat tires.l
I have the Otofix/Autel D1 for DIY. Would love to get your feedback and thoughts on it. It doesn’t have the visual module bus mapping that other units do.
Another great video! Like that you showed the newer Otofix scanner in action but in your prior videos you use the Topdon, Also seems the Otofix still has a few bugs they need to work out. I think it'll be great for us DIYers to see you do a scanner shoot out video..I have the Xtool A30M bluetooth and it's pretty good for the price but I would like to upgrade to something in the $500 range which is mostly feasible for a DIY guy because it's not practical for us to spend $1,000 or more on a scanner..What would be your recommendation for a scanner that actually has Bi-directional and Key fob programming capabilities like the Autel IM508/IM608? I recently also returned the Launch X431BT($400 range)because it didn't seem to do much more that the Xtool A30M which only cost me about $220 a year ago.
When it comes to key programming there isn’t a cheap good option. The 508 is about as cheap as it gets. Most scan tools can do a little bit bet of key programming, it just depends on the model of car.
@@autodiagyt OK, Thanks, I mainly have been learning on and have GM vehicles and Chrysler( one 2010 Caliber and one 2017 Challenger)but the Launch X431BT did not have the capability to do the key programming on either.
After a basic inspection of the vehicle (which includes the battery and battery cables), even before pulling codes, you should measure the battery voltage with a DMM and if you don't suspect a shorted cell, or battery leakage (if a flooded type) attach a vehicle power sustainer to the main 12V power. Why? Because virtually all batteries, especially in the winter time, are never fully charged, and more often or not they are dead. Even after driving the vehicle for 4 hours you may complete the bulk charge and part of the absorption charge, but the battery will not be fully charged. When the battery is cold it needs to heat up in order to take a full charge. Its almost like you would want to put a battery heater on a cold battery first, let it heat up, and then apply the battery sustainer to quickly charge up the battery, or as quickly as possible. You must be careful that the battery is not frozen (a frozen flooded batter will have a abnormally very low terminal voltage). I use a sustainer because it has a regulated voltage output and I can manually set the initial charging current to 1/10 C battery rating as a starting point when I first start working on the vehicle. My sustainer has a current output reading. So basically, the sustainer is acting as dumb battery charger. My sustainer has battery charging modes, but I prefer to use the basic sustaining mode for vehicle troubleshooting. For soldering in the field, which I do not do that often any more unless it is a special needs customer or some type of high priority repair, I use my custom jump box (which has a huge 12V Optima Yellow Top AGM, which is dual purpose, meaning starting as well as a deep cycle) and a marine 12V inverter (pure sine wave Victron Energy), and run an extension cord out to the vehicle to run both my soldering iron and my heat gun. My field soldering station is a very nice Weller station and I use the Weller 6966C small heat gun for heat shrink.
Great video. That car is a mess. I picked up the Otofix D1 when Amazon was having their big two-day sale. I like it quite a bit and is the first time I have used Autel software so it's a little getting used to compared to my Launch powered Thinktool Pros. The one thing I don't like about the Otofix is that after updating the tool twice, I've used 45 gb out of the 64 gb of memory. I added a 128 gb SD card but I cannot figure out how to transfer files to it. I guess maybe updates will automatically go to the SD card when the internal memory is full. I also have that TS101 soldering iron and really like it. I made some test leads and fused jumper wires with it and it works well.
I tried calling tech support but it just said that no one was available and then would hang up. I emailed them as well so hopefully they will respond. My Thinktool Pros has been getting updated for the past two years and still has 45 GB out of the 64 GB available so something is not right with this Otofix.
Nice work! Have you ever come across any ECM problems for the 00-06 Duramax’s shorting to ground? I’ve gone through 3-4 ecm’s. Looked over every wire and can’t find the issue. Now I’m at the point that I’ve yanked out all the wire harness under the hood and gonna start fresh. I hope🤦🏻♂️ Q; can or could the ficm burn down the ecm?
Interesting.. now I'm not sure between this Otofix D1 Lite or Xtool IP819 for DIY two home cars .. looking for graphing and cheap ~$100 or so yearly updates ..
I bought the otofix d1 lite 5 or 6 months ago. As far as I can tell, it has all the data pids and bidirectional controls that the autel ultra has. Only thing it's lacking is some coding functions and topology. I rarely have to grab the shops ultra. My only complaint with it is, for some reason, alldata won't work. It goes to the site, try to log in and it just stays on the loading screen.
I didn't catch it at first, until the fan turned on.. and then I looked back and noticed it was the wrong relay. :) Everybody makes these little mistakes at least once
So I went into your amazon link to purchase the soldering iron, and battery, and charger. I'm curious where the little cord that goes from the battery (yellow connector end) and turns into the single round connector that plugs into the soldering iron comes from? It's not in the soldering iron, nor the battery, and the charger hasn't gotten here yet, but in the pics, it doesn't seem to be in there either! Help!
Actually I think I’ve linked the wrong one. It’s from the same company but mine is the “Field Repair” kit. I’ll get that changed. It was the same price and looked the same. It’s to short though. Look for a xt60 to dc adapter cable
Me either, LOL. The more I use a test light of any form the more value they have to me. Plus the scope. Actually just diagnosed a sticking exhaust valve with a pressure transducer today. That’s pretty high tech for a self taught Oklahoma guy like me.
😂😂😂😂😂 i was oh look the relay is missing . then you took the other one out and i was wtf have i missed something there . i rewound that bit 4 times thinking man what has he seen that i haven’t 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 . you certainly get some right old dogs mate that’s for sure . must be stolen and recovered. man that iron is well cool . i have got through many of those gas irons over the years . cheap ones expensive ones they all give up the ghost sooner or later and you have to pony then the right way or the exhaust will burn the carpet
Talking about days going to 💩 how about one day c230 kompressor idler pulley bearing comes apart Belt snaps wraps around crank pulley yanks out front main seal 7 hrs later daughter in law has flat tire at 7 am taking gkids to school 2 major wrecks shut down the only roads to her and then no spare tire no Jack no lug wrench but a Firestone in walking distance 😅
I still dont get why you couldnt get a windows tablet with upgraded memory and just be able to download the software to it no matter what system you like to use.. seems like itd be faster, more diverse, and add abilities to store all the info diags in one place where you could import and export to whatever.. id put money into that over a stupid tablet that doesnt have any upgradable options and will go obsolete in a few years at most..
Some codes require a 2 clear cycles to clear just like some require 2 set cycles to set. Well done my friend.
Nice Soldering Iron, Jake! :) I noticed that you were checking Relay 13 (Cooling Fan) instead of the missing Relay 07 (Ignition) according to the fuse box cover... been down that road before LOL!
It happens
@@autodiagyt Judging by the broken crap inside and the missing relay.. It seems like this was sabotage by a couple fighting or something. Kinda strange.. there's a story there somewhere
I know that road very well
Im glad im not the only one who makes mistakes on camera...its easy to do especially when shooting a video adds another distraction. Good diagnosis!
It absolutely does lol
Old school here again, I always start with a thorough fuse panel inspection, been burned many times by missing fuses and relays.Good show❤
Truely its a nightmare to diagnose already badly diagnosed vehicle 😢..people always mess up in fuse boxes they take out fuses and relays and forgets what gose to what and where...great diag sir..cheers
It looks very similar to my xtool D8..
So maybe the xtool is also based on autel, I wouldn't doubt it. It has been a killer scanner for me since early 2022.
There seems to be a race to the bottom for all these scantools. Everyone keeps adding features and dropping prices. You love to see it. :)
That car is a classic Southern "Hooptie Wagon" if ever I have seen one.
Gotta love the pre-diag repairs needed just so you can do the diagnostic
Nice!! However... At 22.30min marker... Right when you said "bug"... You had one crawling on your lapel!!! I would have freaked out 😂
Lol I didn’t even see I don’t guess lol
looks like the owner got real mad when he couldn't fix it. Hulk Smash lol 😊😊👍👍
Crazy stuff we get to see in this field, never gets old.
Thanks for another great great! Makes getting ready for work easier. This particular vid just reminded me that every ticket in my dog bowl is THAT car. Leaking fuel from a rusty line or a compound Chrysler issue car. Too bad lm nowhere near as smart as the boss thinks I am. Keep watching you & Ivan , Eric & hopefully Mr.Staton Island will get back to making videos again & smarter by the day they say.
Great video. You have shown that even the best can make a newbie mistake when you are hurrying thru and your mind is not concentrated on the task at hand.
There was a passed out crack addict leaning against my work truck with one of those power probe butane torches in his lap. I was so tempted to take it. His torch was better than mine….
Nice car! , great soldering iron, I use a dewalt battery adapter since I have dewalt batt's also use a 12 to 24v boost adapter with battery clips
Be careful when swapping relays that aren't oem. I watched a video from Darren at Mechanic Mindset about a pcm that kept getting fried due to the resistor inside the relay being the wrong rating, so when the voltage spike occurred from it shutting off, it was sending too much current to the pcm. But fixing the pcm would be an additional upsell for you 😆. Good work!
The relays in the power distribution box labeled GM are rather pathetic, because GM by rebranding the relay (GM does not make relays), has removed the relay circuit diagram which is usually found on the top of the relay, it can be moved to the side but it is usually harder to read. This diagram will tell you if the relay is one of three types, coil resistor suppression, coil diode suppression, or no suppression. There are basically three sizes of automotive 12VDC relays (Micro, Mini, and HD, all relating to contact current capability) of either 4 or 5 pin. I have about 5 of each variant (so 3x3x2 x 5 each) I think with a couple strange old GM types I have about 100 automotive relays in total in my repair kit. Most are TE connectivity, Tyco, P&B and Hella. Virtually all of the 12VDC rated automotive relays which have resistive suppression the resistor value is 680 Ohms.
The engine controller that Darren's colleague blew up was made by Bosch. Which is rather surprising because most Bosch relay output driver circuits have an active clamp on-board the smart power driver IC to protect it against the coil inductive kick. The resistor is for noise suppression in the harness (like radio noise) and not to protect the PCM against the inductive coil voltage. I would really like to dig into the module that Darren showed, because I have never seen a Bosch module that did not use protected smart power driver ICs for relay control.
Ivan did one the other day in an old car (Porsche I believe).. and the relay had the same pins except it was a special relay that was wired backwards or just in a different way. So it is possible to cause issues-- but usually only on strange specialty cars. Regular domestic vehicles are generally all the same; mostly.
German automobiles can have special relay modules (relays soldered to a PCB) and combo-relays (more than 5 pins like Porsche) in addition to the more common US domestic 4 and 5 pin (Micro, Mini and HD) relays. Darren was talking about how a 5 pin relay was changed with another generic 5 pin relay and damaged a Bosch engine controller. Usually you can tell the suppression approach by looking at the wiring diagram on the top, or in the case of GM and others, on the side. If the diagram is missing many times you can just pull off the relay plastic top and see how it is designed.
In traditional modern PCM design, the relay is controlled with a fully protected low side switch. This is done to protect the power IC but also to have full diagnostic coverage for OBD I. There is virtually no way to damage this driver. The output is clamped, has a current limit, ESD protection and thermal cutout. I really would like to get my hands on the module to see what failed. @@calholli
@@windward2818The one that Ivan found was an absolutely standard looking five pin relay but one of the coil pins with swapped with one of the contact pins. With the wrong relay plugged in the PCM was powering the coils (possibly injectors) directly from the PCM output that was supposed to drive only the coil. Amazingly it would actually run.
If you update your topdon the topology is more accurate. It actually says what pins the network is on now instead of labeling them power chais etc. noticed it in the update this week
Yeah I seen it’s got a few updates I need to do lol
Props to you on this one! This would definitely be one of those cars that I would say no too.
“I guess the rest of the cylinder decided to come out” 😂😂😂 You should add more of that dead pan humor and acting into the videos. I’ve watched that bit a bunch of times already. 😂
“Links to my Amazon store!” Yay!
Nice troubleshooting jàke, Visual inspection is always an awesome Technique yoo
I went to a soldering station years ago it elevated my soldering
Yeah but it’s hard to do when your mobile lol. I’m honestly really impressed with how good the little thing works. I do need to make the battery wire longer though.
I have two autel scan tools and they are similar to the oto scan tool. For GM vehicles you have to clear the codes twice.
Real like my Milwaukee soldering iron. Even has angle head . Replacement tips are $14 . Still on first tip 👊🏻
I'm pretty sure the butane soldering gun is the same one that snapon makes. It looks exactly like mine. The tips always go bad though so I'm going to try the ts101 next.
Nice job 👍🏼 ! Great tutorial !! Thanks for sharing this one with us ! Learning lots !! 👊🏼
I came across the exact same issue on a 2015 Cruze, DLC looked the same with connectors and bare copper showing, the engine had been replaced, the engine harness was a mess with bare wires everywhere, The car wasn't worth what I had in mind, spoke to the customer / lady and right off the bat, She was not interested in spending much money on repairs, I collected my call out fee and I was Out of there.!!! 😂
I started 'yelling at the screen at 12:15
Everyone makes I typically don’t edit them out lol I think it’s more important to show it happens and then correct yourself.
Missing relay HMMMMMM!
Well, you got it running.
Good job and video.
17:00 Is that a Cruze with a good radiator fan? Iv never seen that before.
When I was a punk kid and worked for an Auction company, we would pick up repos. Jump pack and booster cables, full gas can, and air pig. Always dead, out of gas, and flat tires.l
I have the Otofix/Autel D1 for DIY. Would love to get your feedback and thoughts on it. It doesn’t have the visual module bus mapping that other units do.
Visual inspection. Is a great Technique.
Yo pensé que los ventiladores se encendían por qué estaba desconectada la ampolleta jajaja 😂 saludos desde el salvador
Another great video! Like that you showed the newer Otofix scanner in action but in your prior videos you use the Topdon, Also seems the Otofix still has a few bugs they need to work out. I think it'll be great for us DIYers to see you do a scanner shoot out video..I have the Xtool A30M bluetooth and it's pretty good for the price but I would like to upgrade to something in the $500 range which is mostly feasible for a DIY guy because it's not practical for us to spend $1,000 or more on a scanner..What would be your recommendation for a scanner that actually has Bi-directional and Key fob programming capabilities like the Autel IM508/IM608? I recently also returned the Launch X431BT($400 range)because it didn't seem to do much more that the Xtool A30M which only cost me about $220 a year ago.
When it comes to key programming there isn’t a cheap good option. The 508 is about as cheap as it gets. Most scan tools can do a little bit bet of key programming, it just depends on the model of car.
@@autodiagyt OK, Thanks, I mainly have been learning on and have GM vehicles and Chrysler( one 2010 Caliber and one 2017 Challenger)but the Launch X431BT did not have the capability to do the key programming on either.
After a basic inspection of the vehicle (which includes the battery and battery cables), even before pulling codes, you should measure the battery voltage with a DMM and if you don't suspect a shorted cell, or battery leakage (if a flooded type) attach a vehicle power sustainer to the main 12V power. Why? Because virtually all batteries, especially in the winter time, are never fully charged, and more often or not they are dead. Even after driving the vehicle for 4 hours you may complete the bulk charge and part of the absorption charge, but the battery will not be fully charged.
When the battery is cold it needs to heat up in order to take a full charge. Its almost like you would want to put a battery heater on a cold battery first, let it heat up, and then apply the battery sustainer to quickly charge up the battery, or as quickly as possible. You must be careful that the battery is not frozen (a frozen flooded batter will have a abnormally very low terminal voltage).
I use a sustainer because it has a regulated voltage output and I can manually set the initial charging current to 1/10 C battery rating as a starting point when I first start working on the vehicle. My sustainer has a current output reading. So basically, the sustainer is acting as dumb battery charger. My sustainer has battery charging modes, but I prefer to use the basic sustaining mode for vehicle troubleshooting.
For soldering in the field, which I do not do that often any more unless it is a special needs customer or some type of high priority repair, I use my custom jump box (which has a huge 12V Optima Yellow Top AGM, which is dual purpose, meaning starting as well as a deep cycle) and a marine 12V inverter (pure sine wave Victron Energy), and run an extension cord out to the vehicle to run both my soldering iron and my heat gun. My field soldering station is a very nice Weller station and I use the Weller 6966C small heat gun for heat shrink.
Great video. That car is a mess.
I picked up the Otofix D1 when Amazon was having their big two-day sale. I like it quite a bit and is the first time I have used Autel software so it's a little getting used to compared to my Launch powered Thinktool Pros. The one thing I don't like about the Otofix is that after updating the tool twice, I've used 45 gb out of the 64 gb of memory. I added a 128 gb SD card but I cannot figure out how to transfer files to it. I guess maybe updates will automatically go to the SD card when the internal memory is full.
I also have that TS101 soldering iron and really like it. I made some test leads and fused jumper wires with it and it works well.
Sounds like it’s not deleting the old versions. Maybe send them an email.
@@autodiagyt I will have to do that. Thanks.
I tried calling tech support but it just said that no one was available and then would hang up. I emailed them as well so hopefully they will respond.
My Thinktool Pros has been getting updated for the past two years and still has 45 GB out of the 64 GB available so something is not right with this Otofix.
Repo cars are the best. I used to haul repo cars out of Alaska down to Washington for Toyota financial and I have seen some good ones. 😂😂
All of us have brain farts occasionally. If the camera hadn't been on, no one would know. Probably won't be the last time.
Nice work! Have you ever come across any ECM problems for the 00-06 Duramax’s shorting to ground? I’ve gone through 3-4 ecm’s. Looked over every wire and can’t find the issue. Now I’m at the point that I’ve yanked out all the wire harness under the hood and gonna start fresh. I hope🤦🏻♂️
Q; can or could the ficm burn down the ecm?
I don’t ever work on those trucks. Usually I just see 5v ref issues where the harness is shorted at the ac pressure sensor.
Interesting.. now I'm not sure between this Otofix D1 Lite or Xtool IP819 for DIY two home cars .. looking for graphing and cheap ~$100 or so yearly updates ..
I don’t like the xtool. I have the ik618 I believe and I never use it.
I bought the otofix d1 lite 5 or 6 months ago. As far as I can tell, it has all the data pids and bidirectional controls that the autel ultra has. Only thing it's lacking is some coding functions and topology. I rarely have to grab the shops ultra.
My only complaint with it is, for some reason, alldata won't work. It goes to the site, try to log in and it just stays on the loading screen.
Yeah alldata is not great on several android versions.
The codes maybe returned because you pulled out the bridge wires while engine was running.
First!
I was wondering what you were doing You were freaking me out. Glad you got it sorted out. Good job on a janky special
I didn't catch it at first, until the fan turned on.. and then I looked back and noticed it was the wrong relay. :)
Everybody makes these little mistakes at least once
Great video , even thou you said your day was s###! If it makes you feel any better my day was s###! Too
Good job 👍
nice video. tips are available. too bad i can leave the link here.
No some people if they made a vehicle as a complete solid whole, they would manage to bust it up.
Welcome to Autel!
Nice job!
the person who damaged the car on purpose cant figure out why they are poor /might just be the poor decisions you make that keep you poor
Just a missing relay, happens all the time 😊. Actually in 12 years I've never seen it, missing fuses, yes. But not a relay.
That’s probably partly why I was testing the wrong one lol
So I went into your amazon link to purchase the soldering iron, and battery, and charger. I'm curious where the little cord that goes from the battery (yellow connector end) and turns into the single round connector that plugs into the soldering iron comes from? It's not in the soldering iron, nor the battery, and the charger hasn't gotten here yet, but in the pics, it doesn't seem to be in there either! Help!
It’s with the soldering iron
Actually I think I’ve linked the wrong one. It’s from the same company but mine is the “Field Repair” kit. I’ll get that changed. It was the same price and looked the same. It’s to short though. Look for a xt60 to dc adapter cable
Were these not sabotaged from factory?
Is your test light meter lead set up like the infamous “LOAD PRO”?
Idk I’ve never used a load pro lol I like my cheap bulbs lol
Me either, LOL. The more I use a test light of any form the more value they have to me.
Plus the scope. Actually just diagnosed a sticking exhaust valve with a pressure transducer today. That’s pretty high tech for a self taught Oklahoma guy like me.
@@kc360awareness what part of Oklahoma
Oklahoma City
How about you? Your southern accent makes me think Deep South, but even some of us citified Okies sound pretty hick. So accents can be deceiving.
😂😂😂😂😂 i was oh look the relay is missing . then you took the other one out and i was wtf have i missed something there . i rewound that bit 4 times thinking man what has he seen that i haven’t 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 . you certainly get some right old dogs mate that’s for sure . must be stolen and recovered. man that iron is well cool . i have got through many of those gas irons over the years . cheap ones expensive ones they all give up the ghost sooner or later and you have to pony then the right way or the exhaust will burn the carpet
🤷🏻♂️ I’m human lol
@@autodiagyt 🤣🤣🤣 ain’t we all . i have dropped some right howlers in my time
It's to really similar to Autel
Awesome
Grasias
Did they get it running for an enduro race? 😂😂😂
Just the tip?
❤❤❤❤❤
That car is a mess good job
👍
Talking about days going to 💩 how about one day c230 kompressor idler pulley bearing comes apart Belt snaps wraps around crank pulley yanks out front main seal 7 hrs later daughter in law has flat tire at 7 am taking gkids to school 2 major wrecks shut down the only roads to her and then no spare tire no Jack no lug wrench but a Firestone in walking distance 😅
That’s a bad day for sure.
@@autodiagytI bought some of your leads off Amazon now I’ll have to learn how to use them 😅
i have to clear 90% of my time with an autel, i have to clear the code twice
I still dont get why you couldnt get a windows tablet with upgraded memory and just be able to download the software to it no matter what system you like to use.. seems like itd be faster, more diverse, and add abilities to store all the info diags in one place where you could import and export to whatever.. id put money into that over a stupid tablet that doesnt have any upgradable options and will go obsolete in a few years at most..
seein all that broken crap i would have refused the car lol
stop talking dude.... or is this a vlog? or a podcast?
Obviously the owner has an anger management problem...like who distroy's their car