Thank you Steven thats very kind of you, we have tried very hard to keep the content improving, its not always been easy, TH-cam has changed a lot over the years, and its great to still be involved.. take care and have a great weekend.. Del.
was having the same problem, so after watching your video I decided to check mine out. turns out it wasn't the switch sticking, it was the brake plunger not returning full stroke to keep pressure on the lever to keep the switch pushed in. there was some gunk in the fluid reservoir. cleaned it all out, put in new fluid and cleaned all around the plunger with WD-40 and now it returns all the way, the slop in the lever is gone and the light does not stay on! thanks for giving me a clue as where to start. saved a ton of money just cleaning things up myself!
Well done Steve.. glad you got it sorted out buddy, its not only cash effective to do it yourself, but I think it enhances the pride of ownership too to have the dignity in your own work....good on you fellah, take care and ride safe. Del.
Hi Gary.. thanks for your kind comments.. the tool is just a little hand driver for the TX bits.... its fixed and not ratchet...its a little set, came with the driver, 7 bits from T-10H to T-40H and a little clip to hold them all.. its by "Clarke Pro", and its model number "PRO 39" Part number 1700439. Handy and great quality, as i said, cheap torx bits will screw up the bolt heads in no time and these are sharp and precise.. i think i paid about £20 for the set... hope that helps mate. Del.
Your videos have been very helpful to me over the past few years. I've been able to fix things that on my Sporty that would have cost a lot at shops to repair. Thank you.
Cheers mate, that's Pennys' previous bike, and as she has small hands we needed to get the levers closer to the bar for her - they are a pretty cool trick accessory - made by Oberon, 6 way adjustable, which gives you 3 clicks closer than the OEM lever & actually 3 clicks further away for bigger hands - aircraft grade billet with a mechanism that would grace a watch - they do come at a price, but you get what you pay for - good luck with it, Del
Your videos are so simple and helpful. I've commented in the past but now spring is almost here in the USA EAST COAST I wanted to review. Well I followed everything you did with great confidence after watching and listening. The problem did not go away. BUT with the confidence and thought process you gave me I figured out the brake handle was the problem. Crazy I know but after 16 years of riding the Harley softail replacing the actual brake lever the problem was solved. I will mention that the HD Brake and Clutch lever set I purchased are vastly better made. The old one looks like a casting the New ones appear more machined. Either way I would not have done it without your help.Thanks
Hi Anthony, thank you for the kind feedback Sir, am glad it helped you... it's a simple enough process, but tricky if you've never done it before... good luck with your future projects and thank you for your support... ride safe!
Thanks Mr. I was scratching my head with this problem on a '92 soft-tail after watching you do it, Went to the driveway and fixed the issue in about 20 minutes. Now if I could fix the left fron turn signal I'll be able to get the wife off my back
Ok those units had dual wiring to feed both applications, so the next thing is to start tracing the connections starting at the back of the bulb and working back into the harness...
As always, thanks so much for the post. I just replaced throttle grips and messed up the switch, I was able to clean it with WD and plugged it back carefully and got it working as it should.
Hey Del thank you for leaving these videos up. I fixed the problem by spraying WD40 in. I loved when you asked a general question and Penny answered. I bet she could do most maintenance items on any bike by now. You have another tinder back on the road in Canada.
Thanks mate, am glad the video helped you... it's exactly this kind of content that we founded the Channel on in the first place all those years ago... so it's great that our core values are still being appreciated!
Good info, thanks. My mate got stung over 200 bucks from the Harley dealer to repair this. Mine cost me 20 minutes of my time plus some one on one time with my young bloke whilst we fixed it. Cheers
Thanks for another helpful video. My brake light was stuck on but I thought it wan't working. Anyway, after checking out the rear switch and test lighting the terminals, the test light lit up when I touched either terminal. It was then I realized the brake light was actually staying on all the time so I found your video. I followed the instructions, checked the switch and it was working.I cleaned it up and reinstalled the lever. Working properly again.
Cheers Del, glad this video is up, my Harley switch is doing the same, the light stays on and it takes a wiggle or two from the lever to get the light off, i'm going to try the wd40 trick and see if this helps. Legend as always. Jon.
Appreciate this, i dropped my bike and I think something broke because my brake light has been messed up since. This gives me an easy way to check which part it is. Cheers
Moonfleet41 Hope this isn't a forever thing! I found your videos and you have been extremely helpful with my recent purchase, a 2005 Sportster 883. Love the videos and excited to watch more!
Even though my Harley is under warranty you have saved me time, money, and travelling to the dealership. Your videos are very informative and your instructions are easy to follow. Thank you.
Thanks Marcus, you're most welcome Sir, glad they work for you... most the housekeeping jobs are not a dealer trip anyway! Ride safe my friend and well done, Del
Just found this channel...good on ya. Trouble shooting this "light stays on" problem now (after bringing it to a garage that buffooned it). Problem is intermittent so it ads to the challenge. Was ready to take that grip area apart yesterday but light started operating normal, brother took it out that day and problem back, time to turn wrenches ...Cheers from the USA
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, Gremlins 1 Biker 0. static ops check good. road test fail returns...couple more ideas to try...really thought I had it when I found a loose housing screw.
I have a 2022 forty eight that would flash the brakes constantly due to the connection between the lever and the button. I ended up just bending the aluminum tab on the lever so it would engage on the butto more. Worked a treat
Sir Delboy..... i love your videos and this is the first time i post a message. Finally mustered up the courage to take off my brake lever which was very straightforward...only a screw and a nut (btw ive got a sporty 2015) and found out that the pin which pushes the lever back to its place is on newer models enclosed in a rubber sleeve. However i did apply some all around silicone lubricant and pushed it a few times to get it all around and my brake lever works well... having said that it would be difficult to apply the red grease you have showed on another video with another harley, due to the pin being enclosed in the rubber sleeve, as opposed to the pin going in and out in an o type ring rubber. On another note i thank you both on all your videos on sportsters as i now have more confidence on working on mine. P.
Hi Padelis, don't worry, if you have the rubber boot over your switch, then it shouldn't need the red rubber grease.. what you've done is perfect with a little silicone grease just to keep it from getting dry... glad you enjoy the videos, always feel free to drop us a line if you need to... ride safe, good luck, Del & Pennyx
Hi Barry, im glad you can find them helpful,. welcome back to biking brother, where have you been, and dont go wandering off again, Biking is like the Borg..once you're one of us, you have been assimilated, you will always be back...lol... ride safe buddy, and have a good Christmas.. Del.
Thanks Very Much! My rear brake light was staying on because the front lever switch stayed in the "ON" position. The end result of this was heat damage to the wiring in the rear light, and the light being on got to the point where the rear brake light lens softened up and split, thus letting in moisture and then exploding the bulb when water hit it. I have the factory manual for my Fatboy, and it doesn't even address this. 6 minutes on TH-cam and my problem was solved.
Hey William, glad you got it sussed out buddy....there is a lot thats not in the manual, i guess they cant second guess every fault...thank god for the tube aye...puts us in touch wiuth each other too... take care fellah, and ride safe.. Del.
Hi mate, the rear brake light is operated by a pressure switch mount to a 'T'-piece in your rear brake line, you'll find it mounted under your left hand side panel above the swing arm and when you apply the rear brake the increase in hydraulic pressure inside the hose feeds to the switch as well and operates the back light ... Del
I have not heard of them 'wearing down' so they cant be pushed...but if adding a small extra piece made it work then perhaps the lever has worn. not easy to know without seeing it....but if its possible, what about drilling a very tiny hole in the 'push face' and screwing in a tiny screw so the head forms a new block to bear on... other than that, it sounds like you may need to replace it... but again, ive never heard of that before..its certainly not common.. good luck with it, cheers, Del.
Hi Brian. Having never had cause to deal with such an issue, i have no experience of it. . But if mine was playing up i would read the Harley manual and that would soon tell me... if you don't have one, then its a worthy investment as everything is in there, you'll find your switch and a how-to trouble shooter in there too... Get the proper Harley Davidson one and not a Haynes or other..and you'll soon find what you need... cheers mate, Del.
This has been a new discovery to me..it seems that some later Sporties have the pin workin in , and some when out...best way to check it take the lever out of the way, do the switch block back up round the bar, switch the ignition on, then poke the pin 'in and out' to check which way yours works....then you can see also if its sticking...sorry to be vague, but im getting contradictions here, so clearly the mechanism has changed... good luck, Del.
Hi there, they are made by "Oberon", and are fully adjustable for small hands.. made from aircraft grade alloy and extremely strong, they cost about £75 each... hope that helps, Del.
Hi mate, as it's the rear, there is no mechanical switch to speak of,it is instead a hydraulic pressure switch and unlike the front, rarely goes wrong..trace the rubber hose forwards from the brake caliper & approx. 1foot along (beneath the side panel) you'll find a metal 'T' piece,this has 2 wires plugged into it,all you can do is ensure they are both plugged in & you've not knocked one off. You could have broken a wire,so check it's all connect properly,have a look,& let me know how you go Del
Thanks Michael, knowing that re-affirms exactly why we started posting and makes it all worthwhile my friend, good luck and thanks for your support, take care, Del
The indicators and brake light are the same bulb. They are working fine it's just the brake lights are out. I'm going to check the fuses then check all of the wires after that. Thanks
Have just found your videos, what a fantastic job, easy to follow, informative even for a novice like me. I also own an 883 Iron so I have to thank you for these amazing videos. Now to change the handle bars...Thanks again
Ho Andy, welcome to the channel mate, and thanks for watching, im glad the videos can help you, its why we load them, so its good ot know they are finding an audience... good luck with your projects, take it easy and ride safe.. Del.
Hi mate... sorry you had that happen, its just horrible to see your pride and joy fall over...at least it didn't fall on you aye. The indicators are pretty simple to change, the back ones are bolted in from the inside of the fender, and the fronts are mounted to the swith blocks....have a good explore and look, its pretty self evident how they come off, so let me know if you get stuck... take care..(next time), and thanks for watching. Del.
on the heritage could be as simple as pushing the switch block back up hard against the lever mount on handle bar to eliminate gap between lever and switch node, in other words slide the switch housing once loosened off a bit ,hard up against the mount for lever,i also honed out the hole a little to allow switch node to slide in and out of its hole easier ,thus eliminating dirt build up ,and as Del boy said check that little spring in the switch box is not broken and still alined
Man, I love your videos. My '13 FXDWG was giving me a b2262 "Front Brake Switch Stuck" code. I think this is the answer. I'll investigate and post back. FYI, I've been noticing your videos for a few years now and want to say thanks and keep up the good work! Oh, and please don't start charging people to watch them... please and thank you again. Edit/Update: The switch is fine. It seems the lever is worn where it's supposed to depress the switch. The controls are stock, so I'm a little baffled as to how it could have happened. I'm looking for a new lever nonetheless. I wouldn't have figured this out without the video. Thanks and ride safe. Edit 2: Apparently, when I installed my bars, almost 3 YEARS ago, I removed or broke off a rubber boot sort of thing that goes over the metal "button" of the switch. What I was checking just now was a metal "button". It works, but, apparently that rubber "boot".cover (like on your video) not only protects it from the weather, but, it helps with depressing the switch. I suppose I could have lost it by some other means too. Anyways, that's that. I'm gonna figure a fix until I can get a new one.
Hey buddy, thanks for your kind message, we will never charge for our videos, and we always peldged this from the beginning, but some while ago, when we moved in to the new place, many of our closest viewers who wanted to send us a little support in return for the huge help that we have given them, started suggesting Patreon... we had never heard of it, but looked in to it, and it turns out that those who want to, people can donate from $1 a month upwards, but it is, and will always remain an entirely voluntary contribution to anyone who feels they want to support us... but we disagree with actively charging! With your switch, would you believe, I had the same problem recently on my old Sportster... broke the tip of that little switch off and the brake light stayed on all the time... it left a hole in the end of the switch, and made it about 3mm too short, so I simply cut a tiny panel pin down to just the button head and about 4mm of the shaft and glued it in the hole, which have it a metal tip that stuck out by the exact amount, and still working fine till this day ! The original plastic tip gets commonly broken off if you're a little bit clumsy when fitting the switch gear... hope that helps, good luck with it my friend, Del
Hah! I was coming across my light coming on again and decided to revisit the issue. Initially, I didn't totally fix it- I simply adjusted the position of the lever. I know it's the problem though. I'm pretty sure I broke off/lost that rubber cap for it during one of my grip changes. Now that I am back on the issue, I'm going to break it down and do a good cleaning and the pin cap thing. Thanks again folks!
Been having a problem with my softail's brake light not coming on. Glad I found this video before spending money on a new switch. Thanks a lot. Also been watching your softail service playlist. Keep it up. Your videos have been very helpful.
all very confusing thanks Del good stuff....if your not holding lever and brake light is on the block is not pressing switch in, you have to get block hard up against switch...the surface area margin for area is ridiculously low so it can be tricky, i gave throttle grip a tap and it put it in the right place ...twice changed bars twice had stuff around get block over switch...putting 36 inch drag bars on next hd iron 883 wide is best pour moi...geoffrey
Hey Delroy, I've been watching you a long time it's amazing how long and how far you came bro from this video till today.. and Penny got much better lol
Hi, Your 2 front brake vids have been very helpful as I've got same prob on my 2002 XLH 1200. Do you have a similar vid to help with a back brake light that only partly illuminates when the brake pedel is pushed REALLY hard. Cheers, Rick.
Thank you I think I have a good idea of what could be wrong with my front or rear brake on my Harley because it some time I am not able to turn the brake light on when I pull or press the front or rear brake.
Hey I just added 16 inch apes to my iron and I wired everything internally. I put everything back together and everything works except for the brake lights. I was wondering if that switch would cause this? Even the foot brake will not set off the brake lights
Hey Todd... if the brake light doesnt work with the foot pedal, then its not likely that its the bar switch....try the earth to the light, or even the fuse, do you have the brake lights in the indicators..? and are they working ok? hard to tell without running some current tests..! hope that helps..
Ha ha, Hi Claus, very far from a Haynes, maybe a 'how-to-bodge-it-for-cheap' manual aye..lol... No sadly no takers on the Harley, we did have bids, and a couple of offers from dealers in Germany, but not nearly enough for a bike of that standard, so it stays in the garage, and ill have to have a rethink... maybe ill build the bike i have planned little by little as cash allows...either way, it will get built.. take care mate.. Del.
So just so I get this right. By that little pin sticking it would cause my brake lights to stay lit? Because that is the problem that I am have with an 08 nightster. Seems to be a reoccurring theme here.
Glad you found the video useful - always good to fix yourself - have plenty of Harley fixes in the back catalogue, check 'em out and shout if you need any help! Cheers, mate, Del
Hi Delboy! Thanks for all your videos! My issue is that my break light won't turn on as I'm riding at night. It turns on when I put on the brakes, but not when I turn the bike on. Any suggestions ?
Hi! Del: Your videos are very informative. I have a 2006 Sportster 1200 and the "Neutral Safety Light" doesn't come on. I changed the bulb & it still doesn't work so it must be the "switch" but how do I get to it and which side of the bike is it on? Thanks you
I have a question. I just bought a 2012 nightster 1200. i noticed that only one tail light will stay solid while i ride but it will turn on when i brake. Same goes for the front indicators. Any advice??
I came across this Harley brake light switch video by chance as I was having a similar problem - and I'm so, so grateful that I did. Excellent information and well presented. One question - I asked HD Edinburgh for a price of a new switch - surely this little switch doesn't cost the best part of £80 to buy?
It wouldn't surprise me at all mate.... HD parts are space ship money... i was once quoted £390 for some 'Fatboy Low' bars... thats a single piece of steel tubing with 4 bends in it..!!!!!!!!
Hi Anthony, im sorry buddy, i don't have a V-Rod Muscle (i wish) so have never had the chance to make a video on them...all i can constructively suggest my friend would be to purchase the genuine Harley Davidson manual from the main dealer because that will give you a blow by blow how-to on most jobs on the bike....it wont be a long job, $250 for labor is probably about three hours tops....so i would think any practically minded person could follow the book... sorry not to be more help.Del.
Thanks for the video! Having the same problem, I lubricated the switch and it all worked fine when I push it with my finger (sounded akward dindt it! ha!), the brake light turned off as it should. BUT I found out that the brake lever doesnt get tu push the switch when I let lose. It looks like the switch as worn out (is 12 years old). Is this possible?. I glued a piece of plastic to it as a temporal solution. That worked for a while. but it falls out. NOW do I have to buy a new one?.THNKS!
what other things could cause Brake light to stay on ,I have cleaned and checked handle switch it go's in and out,could it be a bad switch or is it the pressure switch on the bottom center of the bike.is that switch made for other bikes as well or only Harleys.
I have a real good question.We have a 1992 harley FXRP and our lights will all work when the switch is turned on but not when the bike is started.Any suggestions?
Suzanne Bolyard Hey Suzanne, so are you saying that all the bike's lights work fine when the ignition is switched on but nothing works once the motor is running?... is that correct..!
Moonfleet41 Sorry I have it slightly wrong.There are 3 positions on our switch on our 1992 Harley FXRP.When turned to the second position they are on but when turned to start position which is third they go off.They are also off when started.Trying to get them working for inspection.Thanks.
Suzanne Bolyard Hi Suzanne, ok, got it now... diagnosing electrical faults is near on impossible on email... as you need so much information and history about the bike... As I don't know your bike, did it work ok before?? Meaning, did position on the switch that currently starts the bike previously have the lights working on it and now have stopped working?? Or have they never worked in this position?? Also, does the bike start in any other switch position?? Do you have switches to turn the lights off on the '92 bikes?? etc... As you can see, electrical faults need investigation and I have to be stood by it really to run through the basics at least before I would start doing electrical testing... you could check all the fuses, but logically, if it's working in one position and not another, then it shouldn't be a fuse! Can't think of much else without seeing the bike, really sorry!
Moonfleet41 We have owned our bike since 2005 and it used to work in that position.We parked it for the winter and got this result.Our bike starts in the 3rd position only and I spoke with the hubby and he says we don't have fuses but we have relays.I appreciate you trying to get us a answer.I thought I'd look around on the net before we took it to a Tec. Thanks for the help though.
Suzanne Bolyard Moonfleet41 just wanted to let ya know we traced the wires down and the ground wire had broke loose from the brake light.The brake lights were the issue when we turned the key to start position.We couldn't get those to work hand or foot.All fixed and ready to go.Thanks so much for trying to help us figure this out.Have a Great Day and thanks for your quick responces.We apprciate it.
your videos are very interesting, I'd like you to do one on how to change the rear brake switch itself, in my case I stopped working Sportster 883 1991, thanks. Mexico city.
Thanks for your kind comments mate, however, we only make a video on something if we have cause to do it ourselves on our bikes and also the 1991 switch is different from the 2010 bike we have here... if it is a pressure switch in the rear brake line, which the later bike is, then you can simply unscrew it and screw in a new one... maybe if you can send me some photos or a short video of your switch, I can talk you through how do to it... let me know, Del
Moonfleet41 Would you need to bleed the line on hydraulic switch? I just discovered that is the issue on my bike. If anyone would like a Video on that I would be happy to do one.
macthemechanic no, not necessary... just bleed the caliper through a few times when you break in to the line to change it... just to expel any air, a normal bleed is fine, which you would do anyway!
I need to replace the switch inside housing (the very tip of current one is broken off).....can you make a video showing the process of replacing the switch please?!
Hi buddy, never done it (or never needed to, replaced with a new one), because it's horribly expensive for what it is and as it's a plastic spike that snaps off, the new ones are just as prone to do it as well... if you look down inside the broken off part, it's a hole, on both occasions I did this, I bonded a steel panel pin in to the hole with some epoxy, sticking it out just enough to emulate the factory spike, and on both cases they work perfectly to this day... hope that helps in some way, Good Luck with it.
@@Moonfleet41 I've made several attempts to epoxy something to the original switch but they keep falling off....so I decided to replace the switch and be done with the headaches. (real pain in the butt design/location....not an easy job to replace....$25.00 for new switch and another $100.00 to have someone install it....SUCKS).... I appreciate your advice and I enjoy watching your videos. (btw....my girlfriend lives near Brighton, England) :)
Another very good instructional being cranked out of Delboys' Garage! Hey that little tool you were using that was holding the Torx bits, what is that? Where did you get it?
TheNajSD My issue was having the brake light ON all the time. After simple deduction, unplugging brake control wiring and finding that the brake light turns off, I found the problem was in the brake switch. This video showed me how to open everything up to inspect the switch and I realized that the tip of the switch was broken off. A dab of hot glue fixed the problem. I'm not paying $65 for the replacement OEM part. Works once again.
Thanks a lot for your video, gave me the idea of how to fix it. so I saw that levers on sportster are not the originals, could you tell me witch are, or how can I adapt it.
I think it might be the same problem with mine. It won't retract back completely and it's loose from top to bottom not side to side. I still have the same problem but this video helped. If I slightly press the brakes it retracts just enough for the lights to go back to normal.
I have an 09 street glide. Brake light stays ON after rather than off. The cruise is not working. So ive been trying to diagnose this. So far came up with brake light switch... ideas? Now gotta figure out how to change it
tommy rutledge, jr Hi Tommy, don't fully understand your question, you said "Brake light stays ON after rather than off" .... how did you arrive at the brake light switch being to blame for your cruise control not working??? Usually, a dab of the brakes turns off the cruise control... so are the brakes actually releasing physically, or are they binding due to dirt in the calipers?? ...when was the last time the calipers were cleaned out?? And also when was the last time the brake fluid was changed front & rear??
Plz help . Lowered my suspension. Tried to remove the right rear tail light signal / break light / running light on my iron 883. Bolt was froze could not remove . So decided to put everything back together . On start up the right side tail light / indicator/ break light the red running light came on dim . Indicator worked but on applying break pressure both front and back the dim red light went out and stays out . Indicator still works . But the running might / brake light part will only return on after turning the ignition off and then back on and will only return on dim . Any ideas as to what is happening . Thanks .
Oh how far your videos have come since 2012, yet just as helpful and appreciated
Thank you Steven thats very kind of you, we have tried very hard to keep the content improving, its not always been easy, TH-cam has changed a lot over the years, and its great to still be involved.. take care and have a great weekend.. Del.
was having the same problem, so after watching your video I decided to check mine out. turns out it wasn't the switch sticking, it was the brake plunger not returning full stroke to keep pressure on the lever to keep the switch pushed in. there was some gunk in the fluid reservoir. cleaned it all out, put in new fluid and cleaned all around the plunger with WD-40 and now it returns all the way, the slop in the lever is gone and the light does not stay on! thanks for giving me a clue as where to start. saved a ton of money just cleaning things up myself!
Well done Steve.. glad you got it sorted out buddy, its not only cash effective to do it yourself, but I think it enhances the pride of ownership too to have the dignity in your own work....good on you fellah, take care and ride safe. Del.
Hi Gary.. thanks for your kind comments.. the tool is just a little hand driver for the TX bits.... its fixed and not ratchet...its a little set, came with the driver, 7 bits from T-10H to T-40H and a little clip to hold them all.. its by "Clarke Pro", and its model number "PRO 39" Part number 1700439. Handy and great quality, as i said, cheap torx bits will screw up the bolt heads in no time and these are sharp and precise.. i think i paid about £20 for the set... hope that helps mate. Del.
Your videos have been very helpful to me over the past few years. I've been able to fix things that on my Sporty that would have cost a lot at shops to repair. Thank you.
Most welcome Albert. Glad to help.
Cheers mate, that's Pennys' previous bike, and as she has small hands we needed to get the levers closer to the bar for her - they are a pretty cool trick accessory - made by Oberon, 6 way adjustable, which gives you 3 clicks closer than the OEM lever & actually 3 clicks further away for bigger hands - aircraft grade billet with a mechanism that would grace a watch - they do come at a price, but you get what you pay for - good luck with it, Del
Your videos are so simple and helpful. I've commented in the past but now spring is almost here in the USA EAST COAST I wanted to review. Well I followed everything you did with great confidence after watching and listening. The problem did not go away. BUT with the confidence and thought process you gave me I figured out the brake handle was the problem. Crazy I know but after 16 years of riding the Harley softail replacing the actual brake lever the problem was solved. I will mention that the HD Brake and Clutch lever set I purchased are vastly better made. The old one looks like a casting the New ones appear more machined. Either way I would not have done it without your help.Thanks
Hi Anthony, thank you for the kind feedback Sir, am glad it helped you... it's a simple enough process, but tricky if you've never done it before... good luck with your future projects and thank you for your support... ride safe!
Thanks Mr. I was scratching my head with this problem on a '92 soft-tail after watching you do it, Went to the driveway and fixed the issue in about 20 minutes. Now if I could fix the left fron turn signal I'll be able to get the wife off my back
Nice going Tom, Glad to hear the video could help you out... whats the issue with the turn signal..?
Moonfleet41 as a running light it's fine but goes out when I turn the signal on. the rear one still flashes but slowly.
I know it sounds obvious, but they are a twin filament bulb, have you checked that the signal filament is ok... maybe change the bulb.. ?
Moonfleet41 oh yeah first thing I did and changed out all the bulbs just in case
Ok those units had dual wiring to feed both applications, so the next thing is to start tracing the connections starting at the back of the bulb and working back into the harness...
As always, thanks so much for the post. I just replaced throttle grips and messed up the switch, I was able to clean it with WD and plugged it back carefully and got it working as it should.
Hey Del thank you for leaving these videos up. I fixed the problem by spraying WD40 in. I loved when you asked a general question and Penny answered. I bet she could do most maintenance items on any bike by now. You have another tinder back on the road in Canada.
Thanks mate, am glad the video helped you... it's exactly this kind of content that we founded the Channel on in the first place all those years ago... so it's great that our core values are still being appreciated!
My problem is the brake lights staying on. I'm almost positive, the brake switch being gunked up is the culprit. Easy fix. Thanks. Saved me $50 bucks.
Good info, thanks. My mate got stung over 200 bucks from the Harley dealer to repair this. Mine cost me 20 minutes of my time plus some one on one time with my young bloke whilst we fixed it. Cheers
You're welcome buddy, glad it helped, saved you a few pennies, and also, like you say, some good times in the garage! Ride safe!
Thanks for another helpful video. My brake light was stuck on but I thought it wan't working. Anyway, after checking out the rear switch and test lighting the terminals, the test light lit up when I touched either terminal. It was then I realized the brake light was actually staying on all the time so I found your video. I followed the instructions, checked the switch and it was working.I cleaned it up and reinstalled the lever. Working properly again.
just getting back into bikes after 30yrs....your vids are excellent...many thanx
Cheers Del, glad this video is up, my Harley switch is doing the same, the light stays on and it takes a wiggle or two from the lever to get the light off, i'm going to try the wd40 trick and see if this helps. Legend as always. Jon.
What was the fix? Cheers
Appreciate this, i dropped my bike and I think something broke because my brake light has been messed up since. This gives me an easy way to check which part it is. Cheers
Most welcome, hope you can get it fixed!
It would be great if you showed a full disassembly of the switch housing so those of us with broken switches could see how to replace them.
Could have done that Luke.. but currently dont own a Harley, so not possible right now.. !
Moonfleet41 Hope this isn't a forever thing! I found your videos and you have been extremely helpful with my recent purchase, a 2005 Sportster 883. Love the videos and excited to watch more!
Even though my Harley is under warranty you have saved me time, money, and travelling to the dealership.
Your videos are very informative and your instructions are easy to follow.
Thank you.
Thanks Marcus, you're most welcome Sir, glad they work for you... most the housekeeping jobs are not a dealer trip anyway! Ride safe my friend and well done, Del
Just found this channel...good on ya. Trouble shooting this "light stays on" problem now (after bringing it to a garage that buffooned it). Problem is intermittent so it ads to the challenge. Was ready to take that grip area apart yesterday but light started operating normal, brother took it out that day and problem back, time to turn wrenches ...Cheers from the USA
Good luck with it David, hope you can source the problem and get it fixed.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks, Gremlins 1 Biker 0. static ops check good. road test fail returns...couple more ideas to try...really thought I had it when I found a loose housing screw.
I have a 2022 forty eight that would flash the brakes constantly due to the connection between the lever and the button. I ended up just bending the aluminum tab on the lever so it would engage on the butto more. Worked a treat
Sir Delboy..... i love your videos and this is the first time i post a message. Finally mustered up the courage to take off my brake lever which was very straightforward...only a screw and a nut (btw ive got a sporty 2015) and found out that the pin which pushes the lever back to its place is on newer models enclosed in a rubber sleeve. However i did apply some all around silicone lubricant and pushed it a few times to get it all around and my brake lever works well... having said that it would be difficult to apply the red grease you have showed on another video with another harley, due to the pin being enclosed in the rubber sleeve, as opposed to the pin going in and out in an o type ring rubber. On another note i thank you both on all your videos on sportsters as i now have more confidence on working on mine. P.
Hi Padelis, don't worry, if you have the rubber boot over your switch, then it shouldn't need the red rubber grease.. what you've done is perfect with a little silicone grease just to keep it from getting dry... glad you enjoy the videos, always feel free to drop us a line if you need to... ride safe, good luck, Del & Pennyx
Thank you kindly for your generous comment...i appreciate you watching... cheers, Del
Delboy I actually have to change mine could you shed some light on how to actually get to that booger
Thanks for the good advice. I understand your process a lot better than some of the other guys on here.
Hi Barry, im glad you can find them helpful,. welcome back to biking brother, where have you been, and dont go wandering off again, Biking is like the Borg..once you're one of us, you have been assimilated, you will always be back...lol... ride safe buddy, and have a good Christmas.. Del.
Thanks Very Much! My rear brake light was staying on because the front lever switch stayed in the "ON" position. The end result of this was heat damage to the wiring in the rear light, and the light being on got to the point where the rear brake light lens softened up and split, thus letting in moisture and then exploding the bulb when water hit it. I have the factory manual for my Fatboy, and it doesn't even address this. 6 minutes on TH-cam and my problem was solved.
Hey William, glad you got it sussed out buddy....there is a lot thats not in the manual, i guess they cant second guess every fault...thank god for the tube aye...puts us in touch wiuth each other too... take care fellah, and ride safe.. Del.
Hi mate, the rear brake light is operated by a pressure switch mount to a 'T'-piece in your rear brake line, you'll find it mounted under your left hand side panel above the swing arm and when you apply the rear brake the increase in hydraulic pressure inside the hose feeds to the switch as well and operates the back light ... Del
I have not heard of them 'wearing down' so they cant be pushed...but if adding a small extra piece made it work then perhaps the lever has worn. not easy to know without seeing it....but if its possible, what about drilling a very tiny hole in the 'push face' and screwing in a tiny screw so the head forms a new block to bear on... other than that, it sounds like you may need to replace it... but again, ive never heard of that before..its certainly not common.. good luck with it, cheers, Del.
Solved my problem....I ended up having to shim the switch out just about a mm. Thank you so much!
+David Robinson Glad it worked buddy !
Hi Brian. Having never had cause to deal with such an issue, i have no experience of it. . But if mine was playing up i would read the Harley manual and that would soon tell me... if you don't have one, then its a worthy investment as everything is in there, you'll find your switch and a how-to trouble shooter in there too... Get the proper Harley Davidson one and not a Haynes or other..and you'll soon find what you need... cheers mate, Del.
AGAIN a video that helps me understand my bike. Cheeers man thanks for the help!
You're most welcome mate!
Thanx mate. Still using all you old stuff as well as new. Excellent stuff mate.
Safe rides. 👍🤜
This has been a new discovery to me..it seems that some later Sporties have the pin workin in , and some when out...best way to check it take the lever out of the way, do the switch block back up round the bar, switch the ignition on, then poke the pin 'in and out' to check which way yours works....then you can see also if its sticking...sorry to be vague, but im getting contradictions here, so clearly the mechanism has changed... good luck, Del.
Hi there, they are made by "Oberon", and are fully adjustable for small hands.. made from aircraft grade alloy and extremely strong, they cost about £75 each... hope that helps, Del.
Hi mate, as it's the rear, there is no mechanical switch to speak of,it is instead a hydraulic pressure switch and unlike the front, rarely goes wrong..trace the rubber hose forwards from the brake caliper & approx. 1foot along (beneath the side panel) you'll find a metal 'T' piece,this has 2 wires plugged into it,all you can do is ensure they are both plugged in & you've not knocked one off. You could have broken a wire,so check it's all connect properly,have a look,& let me know how you go Del
Amazing video!!! I have done all mods on my 1200XL on all tutorials you have posted!!
Huge Fan!!!!
Frank B Thanks Frank, you're very kind mate, im glad the videos can help you sir... ride safe buddy, and thanks for watching... Del.
this video, like a lot of Del's videos have saved me a lot of money.
cheers mate
Thanks Michael, knowing that re-affirms exactly why we started posting and makes it all worthwhile my friend, good luck and thanks for your support, take care, Del
THank you. Love to ride but I don't know much as far as mechanics. Your video saved me time and money. Thank you so much!
Thanks Tim, im glad we could help you out with this... good luck with it... take care. Del.
The indicators and brake light are the same bulb. They are working fine it's just the brake lights are out. I'm going to check the fuses then check all of the wires after that. Thanks
Your video helped but I just sprayed WD40 as I squeezed the brake. Now it's not stuck on. Try the easiest solution before surgery. Thumbs up Mate.
Have just found your videos, what a fantastic job, easy to follow, informative even for a novice like me. I also own an 883 Iron so I have to thank you for these amazing videos. Now to change the handle bars...Thanks again
Ho Andy, welcome to the channel mate, and thanks for watching, im glad the videos can help you, its why we load them, so its good ot know they are finding an audience... good luck with your projects, take it easy and ride safe.. Del.
Thanks Dellboy! Video helped. The last question on the carburetor striped screw easy out didn't work I use vise grips.
Why thank you kindly, Sir, you are very generous, glad it helps, Cheers Del
Hi mate... sorry you had that happen, its just horrible to see your pride and joy fall over...at least it didn't fall on you aye. The indicators are pretty simple to change, the back ones are bolted in from the inside of the fender, and the fronts are mounted to the swith blocks....have a good explore and look, its pretty self evident how they come off, so let me know if you get stuck... take care..(next time), and thanks for watching. Del.
Thanks for your attention, and gave me the idea of how to fix it, I'll send the video if I can repair this fault, greetings from mexico
on the heritage could be as simple as pushing the switch block back up hard against the lever mount on handle bar to eliminate gap between lever and switch node, in other words slide the switch housing once loosened off a bit ,hard up against the mount for lever,i also honed out the hole a little to allow switch node to slide in and out of its hole easier ,thus eliminating dirt build up ,and as Del boy said check that little spring in the switch box is not broken and still alined
This video resolved my brake light issue. Thank you
Man u just made my life easier and less of pain in the ass. Thank you.
Most welcome, glad it helped you Bryan!
Hi Gary, if you cant get one id be surprised, Clarke-Pro are an American company as far as i know...
Man, I love your videos. My '13 FXDWG was giving me a b2262 "Front Brake Switch Stuck" code. I think this is the answer. I'll investigate and post back. FYI, I've been noticing your videos for a few years now and want to say thanks and keep up the good work! Oh, and please don't start charging people to watch them... please and thank you again.
Edit/Update: The switch is fine. It seems the lever is worn where it's supposed to depress the switch. The controls are stock, so I'm a little baffled as to how it could have happened. I'm looking for a new lever nonetheless. I wouldn't have figured this out without the video. Thanks and ride safe.
Edit 2: Apparently, when I installed my bars, almost 3 YEARS ago, I removed or broke off a rubber boot sort of thing that goes over the metal "button" of the switch. What I was checking just now was a metal "button". It works, but, apparently that rubber "boot".cover (like on your video) not only protects it from the weather, but, it helps with depressing the switch. I suppose I could have lost it by some other means too. Anyways, that's that. I'm gonna figure a fix until I can get a new one.
Hey buddy, thanks for your kind message, we will never charge for our videos, and we always peldged this from the beginning, but some while ago, when we moved in to the new place, many of our closest viewers who wanted to send us a little support in return for the huge help that we have given them, started suggesting Patreon... we had never heard of it, but looked in to it, and it turns out that those who want to, people can donate from $1 a month upwards, but it is, and will always remain an entirely voluntary contribution to anyone who feels they want to support us... but we disagree with actively charging!
With your switch, would you believe, I had the same problem recently on my old Sportster... broke the tip of that little switch off and the brake light stayed on all the time... it left a hole in the end of the switch, and made it about 3mm too short, so I simply cut a tiny panel pin down to just the button head and about 4mm of the shaft and glued it in the hole, which have it a metal tip that stuck out by the exact amount, and still working fine till this day ! The original plastic tip gets commonly broken off if you're a little bit clumsy when fitting the switch gear... hope that helps, good luck with it my friend, Del
Hah! I was coming across my light coming on again and decided to revisit the issue. Initially, I didn't totally fix it- I simply adjusted the position of the lever. I know it's the problem though. I'm pretty sure I broke off/lost that rubber cap for it during one of my grip changes. Now that I am back on the issue, I'm going to break it down and do a good cleaning and the pin cap thing. Thanks again folks!
Been having a problem with my softail's brake light not coming on. Glad I found this video before spending money on a new switch. Thanks a lot. Also been watching your softail service playlist. Keep it up. Your videos have been very helpful.
Thank you sir ,, you saved me a ton of money ,, a have seen your vedio and fixed my cvo ultra my self
Hey Delboy...good vid! You should've included a shot of your Harley!
all very confusing thanks Del good stuff....if your not holding lever and brake light is on the block is not pressing switch in, you have to get block hard up against switch...the surface area margin for area is ridiculously low so it can be tricky, i gave throttle grip a tap and it put it in the right place ...twice changed bars twice had stuff around get block over switch...putting 36 inch drag bars on next hd iron 883 wide is best pour moi...geoffrey
Hey Delroy, I've been watching you a long time it's amazing how long and how far you came bro from this video till today.. and Penny got much better lol
Thanks for your long term support, it's great to hear from you again, and we're really glad to know the videos are still useful!
thanks bro, you saved me a few pesos! Greetings from Mexico.
Glad I could help, no problem!
AWESOME 😁👍 I’ve got this issue soon as I’ve ordered some talked heads I’m gonna have a go at this thank you
Glad it was helpful. Good luck!
Excellent. I am having the same problem. I will refer back to this video and apply the lesson. Hopefully it works. Thanks!!!
Thanks Rob, it was just a quick response to a guy who asked for help, easier to poke up a short video than try to explain it in words... :0
Thanks for the video. My brake light was an all the time. Watched the video and was able to fix my bike (FLSTCI). Just took a little WD40.
Wow the best vid I seen for this part/issue- thank you And Merry Christmas 🎄
Glad it helped buddy, you're very welcome, enjoy your Christmas holidays!
Your video is really useful, Greetings from Zagreb
Welcome aboard my friend, how wonderful to hear from you, thank you for your support!
Great video! This helped me a lot with my '07 Ultra Classic.
Hi, Your 2 front brake vids have been very helpful as I've got same prob on my 2002 XLH 1200. Do you have a similar vid to help with a back brake light that only partly illuminates when the brake pedel is pushed REALLY hard. Cheers, Rick.
Thanks Dan, good to hear form you buddy, oh, and can i be your friend when you strike gold with your pan kit...lol... take care... Del.
Thank you I think I have a good idea of what could be wrong with my front or rear brake on my Harley because it some time I am not able to turn the brake light on when I pull or press the front or rear brake.
Great video buddy! Always a pressure watching you demonstrate your talent with bikes :)
Hey I just added 16 inch apes to my iron and I wired everything internally. I put everything back together and everything works except for the brake lights. I was wondering if that switch would cause this? Even the foot brake will not set off the brake lights
Hey Todd... if the brake light doesnt work with the foot pedal, then its not likely that its the bar switch....try the earth to the light, or even the fuse, do you have the brake lights in the indicators..? and are they working ok? hard to tell without running some current tests..! hope that helps..
what controls the rear Brake light,is everything in the handle control the rear as well or is there a relay somewhere that is bad.
Cool, thought it might ratchet, and had not seen one like it before, will see if they are available here...
Ha ha, Hi Claus, very far from a Haynes, maybe a 'how-to-bodge-it-for-cheap' manual aye..lol... No sadly no takers on the Harley, we did have bids, and a couple of offers from dealers in Germany, but not nearly enough for a bike of that standard, so it stays in the garage, and ill have to have a rethink... maybe ill build the bike i have planned little by little as cash allows...either way, it will get built.. take care mate.. Del.
Exactly what I need brother… thank you!
Thank you, fixed mine saved time and money.
I did everything you said to clean the switch but my break light is still on, what could I do next?
What if tour lights and headlights stay on like in a dual sport but now when you break they don't dim
So just so I get this right. By that little pin sticking it would cause my brake lights to stay lit? Because that is the problem that I am have with an 08 nightster. Seems to be a reoccurring theme here.
Thank you very much for the great videos! They really help me save a lot of time and money!
You're most welcome Patrick, im glad we could be of help... all the best. Del.
Glad you found the video useful - always good to fix yourself - have plenty of Harley fixes in the back catalogue, check 'em out and shout if you need any help! Cheers, mate, Del
Hi Delboy! Thanks for all your videos!
My issue is that my break light won't turn on as I'm riding at night. It turns on when I put on the brakes, but not when I turn the bike on. Any suggestions ?
Hi You've lost me, is yours sticking then..?
Hi! Del:
Your videos are very informative. I have a 2006 Sportster 1200 and the "Neutral Safety Light" doesn't come on. I changed the bulb & it still doesn't work so it must be the "switch" but how do I get to it and which side of the bike is it on?
Thanks you
I have a question. I just bought a 2012 nightster 1200. i noticed that only one tail light will stay solid while i ride but it will turn on when i brake. Same goes for the front indicators. Any advice??
Sorry its a 2011 nightster
Thanks Pete.... checked out Rob's F/Bird?.... looks phackin awesome mate...!
I came across this Harley brake light switch video by chance as I was having a similar problem - and I'm so, so grateful that I did. Excellent information and well presented. One question - I asked HD Edinburgh for a price of a new switch - surely this little switch doesn't cost the best part of £80 to buy?
It wouldn't surprise me at all mate.... HD parts are space ship money... i was once quoted £390 for some 'Fatboy Low' bars... thats a single piece of steel tubing with 4 bends in it..!!!!!!!!
Hi Anthony, im sorry buddy, i don't have a V-Rod Muscle (i wish) so have never had the chance to make a video on them...all i can constructively suggest my friend would be to purchase the genuine Harley Davidson manual from the main dealer because that will give you a blow by blow how-to on most jobs on the bike....it wont be a long job, $250 for labor is probably about three hours tops....so i would think any practically minded person could follow the book... sorry not to be more help.Del.
Great help man! Thanks for the videos!
Thanks for the video! Having the same problem, I lubricated the switch and it all worked fine when I push it with my finger (sounded akward dindt it! ha!), the brake light turned off as it should. BUT I found out that the brake lever doesnt get tu push the switch when I let lose. It looks like the switch as worn out (is 12 years old). Is this possible?. I glued a piece of plastic to it as a temporal solution. That worked for a while. but it falls out. NOW do I have to buy a new one?.THNKS!
Where did you buy the torx set?
what other things could cause Brake light to stay on ,I have cleaned and checked handle switch it go's in and out,could it be a bad switch or is it the pressure switch on the bottom center of the bike.is that switch made for other bikes as well or only Harleys.
Did you ever find the fault? I am in the same situation? Can't seem to locate why my brake light is still on?
I have a real good question.We have a 1992 harley FXRP and our lights will all work when the switch is turned on but not when the bike is started.Any suggestions?
Suzanne Bolyard Hey Suzanne, so are you saying that all the bike's lights work fine when the ignition is switched on but nothing works once the motor is running?... is that correct..!
Moonfleet41 Sorry I have it slightly wrong.There are 3 positions on our switch on our 1992 Harley FXRP.When turned to the second position they are on but when turned to start position which is third they go off.They are also off when started.Trying to get them working for inspection.Thanks.
Suzanne Bolyard Hi Suzanne, ok, got it now... diagnosing electrical faults is near on impossible on email... as you need so much information and history about the bike...
As I don't know your bike, did it work ok before?? Meaning, did position on the switch that currently starts the bike previously have the lights working on it and now have stopped working?? Or have they never worked in this position?? Also, does the bike start in any other switch position?? Do you have switches to turn the lights off on the '92 bikes?? etc...
As you can see, electrical faults need investigation and I have to be stood by it really to run through the basics at least before I would start doing electrical testing... you could check all the fuses, but logically, if it's working in one position and not another, then it shouldn't be a fuse! Can't think of much else without seeing the bike, really sorry!
Moonfleet41 We have owned our bike since 2005 and it used to work in that position.We parked it for the winter and got this result.Our bike starts in the 3rd position only and I spoke with the hubby and he says we don't have fuses but we have relays.I appreciate you trying to get us a answer.I thought I'd look around on the net before we took it to a Tec. Thanks for the help though.
Suzanne Bolyard Moonfleet41 just wanted to let ya know we traced the wires down and the ground wire had broke loose from the brake light.The brake lights were the issue when we turned the key to start position.We couldn't get those to work hand or foot.All fixed and ready to go.Thanks so much for trying to help us figure this out.Have a Great Day and thanks for your quick responces.We apprciate it.
Thats it!!!.. the drilling&screw option will do it!!!.... Thanks a lot man!
your videos are very interesting, I'd like you to do one on how to change the rear brake switch itself, in my case I stopped working Sportster 883 1991, thanks. Mexico city.
Thanks for your kind comments mate, however, we only make a video on something if we have cause to do it ourselves on our bikes and also the 1991 switch is different from the 2010 bike we have here... if it is a pressure switch in the rear brake line, which the later bike is, then you can simply unscrew it and screw in a new one... maybe if you can send me some photos or a short video of your switch, I can talk you through how do to it... let me know, Del
Moonfleet41 Would you need to bleed the line on hydraulic switch? I just discovered that is the issue on my bike.
If anyone would like a Video on that I would be happy to do one.
macthemechanic no, not necessary... just bleed the caliper through a few times when you break in to the line to change it... just to expel any air, a normal bleed is fine, which you would do anyway!
Great video mate, it helped me plenty good !!😊thanks.👍
I need to replace the switch inside housing (the very tip of current one is broken off).....can you make a video showing the process of replacing the switch please?!
Hi buddy, never done it (or never needed to, replaced with a new one), because it's horribly expensive for what it is and as it's a plastic spike that snaps off, the new ones are just as prone to do it as well... if you look down inside the broken off part, it's a hole, on both occasions I did this, I bonded a steel panel pin in to the hole with some epoxy, sticking it out just enough to emulate the factory spike, and on both cases they work perfectly to this day... hope that helps in some way, Good Luck with it.
@@Moonfleet41 I've made several attempts to epoxy something to the original switch but they keep falling off....so I decided to replace the switch and be done with the headaches. (real pain in the butt design/location....not an easy job to replace....$25.00 for new switch and another $100.00 to have someone install it....SUCKS).... I appreciate your advice and I enjoy watching your videos. (btw....my girlfriend lives near Brighton, England) :)
Another very good instructional being cranked out of Delboys' Garage! Hey that little tool you were using that was holding the Torx bits, what is that? Where did you get it?
Thanks for the help!
TheNajSD My issue was having the brake light ON all the time. After simple deduction, unplugging brake control wiring and finding that the brake light turns off, I found the problem was in the brake switch. This video showed me how to open everything up to inspect the switch and I realized that the tip of the switch was broken off. A dab of hot glue fixed the problem. I'm not paying $65 for the replacement OEM part. Works once again.
TheNajSD Thats a great fix buddy, just my kind of thinking too.... glad it helped you out, take care and ride safe.. Del.
Thanks mate....
Thanks a lot for your video, gave me the idea of how to fix it. so I saw that levers on sportster are not the originals, could you tell me witch are, or how can I adapt it.
Hi Roderigo. The levers are made by "Oberon" and are available from eBay. thanks for watching, good luck. Del.
I think it might be the same problem with mine. It won't retract back completely and it's loose from top to bottom not side to side. I still have the same problem but this video helped. If I slightly press the brakes it retracts just enough for the lights to go back to normal.
Good vid. Im doing upgrade to all chrome controls and instructions included with MOCO parts is vague.
Awesome video...this helped me with my scooter.
I have an 09 street glide. Brake light stays ON after rather than off. The cruise is not working. So ive been trying to diagnose this. So far came up with brake light switch... ideas? Now gotta figure out how to change it
tommy rutledge, jr Hi Tommy, don't fully understand your question, you said "Brake light stays ON after rather than off" .... how did you arrive at the brake light switch being to blame for your cruise control not working??? Usually, a dab of the brakes turns off the cruise control... so are the brakes actually releasing physically, or are they binding due to dirt in the calipers?? ...when was the last time the calipers were cleaned out?? And also when was the last time the brake fluid was changed front & rear??
Plz help . Lowered my suspension. Tried to remove the right rear tail light signal / break light / running light on my iron 883. Bolt was froze could not remove . So decided to put everything back together . On start up the right side tail light / indicator/ break light the red running light came on dim . Indicator worked but on applying break pressure both front and back the dim red light went out and stays out . Indicator still works . But the running might / brake light part will only return on after turning the ignition off and then back on and will only return on dim . Any ideas as to what is happening . Thanks .
Great help with all your vidoes, thanks