All the info to make your own shifter is here: beavismotorsport.com/sim-racing/ If you're interested in more details on my sim rig setup, I have heaps of info including free plans to make your own here: beavismotorsport.com/sim-racing/ Thanks for watching!!
I think this design could be simplified a bit more. There is no need of switches if you add a bolt on the shift rod and connect the two bolts that hold the spring to +vcc. So whenever the shift touches the bolt, you short two pins on arduino and you get the same result of a switch
The switches aren't that expensive, and are made for the purpose, while a bolt with some wire attached to it is pretty agricultural. It might work, but I'm comfortable that this design is a fair compromise between cost/complexity.
Great job Brendan! Very thorough explanation video. It would be a simple matter to print a second shifter and wire it into the same arduino to be configured as a handbrake. A few code changes and you could have another axis for the drifting action!
Yeah I suppose one way to make more use of all the arduinos inputs would be to rig up an "auxiliary" port - then wire in a button box or handbrake as you suggest.
@@Bbeavis This is actually similar to what I've done - I've made up a button box, and I'm using a 6.5mm stereo audio socket to plug in my DIY sequential shifter. I made a very nasty one out of plywood which had a switch fail, so I'm going to make a new one using your idea but probably fewer printed parts as I have tons of scrap wood. The button box uses a button matrix, hence I only need three wires coming in to the shifter rather than four. But it also means I can easily disconnect the shifter if I have to move things around rather than everything needing to be tethered together.
I'm thinking of getting into sim racing, currently restoring a 92 EUNOS mx5 mk1.I've done a few naughty drifts in wet roads but rather be safe and not in jail or run over a horse. Thinking of getting a T300 and make e break and shift DIY. Thanks for this :).
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I really appreciate you making the Fusion 360 file available. I converted the metric bolts to US standard sizes. Much easier to source here.
I'm currently building a transmission controller for my Ford Ranger, and I need something to let me shift the gears fully manually. I'm gonna make one of these but cast it with aluminum for my final install.
Excellent build, thanks for sharing! However, I noticed 1.4mm wire diameter for the springs was way way too stiff. Maybe I got the wrong ones or my rig isn't sturdy enough but I need to source some weaker springs to make this work
Lol im making a sim rig out of cardboard and home items. So far i have a wheel base of a bungee cord system, with a mouse tracking system. Basically theres a pole going through the base, and the mouse tracks the movement of the pole, simulating mouse movement. This is with mouse steering, for the pedals im working on with a xbox remote and connected pedals to the triggers. The remote is in a removable box. All im missing is the main wheel for the base and a shifter.
Could this be modified to be aluminum or has anyone done it? Looks could quality but looks like it could be a cool project to make it metal and maybe add some magnets for a snappier feeling. Great video
Another question is there a way to change the Ardunio code to work on a Micro Pro? It says to set in IDE as a Ardunio Leonardo. I ordered off the link in the description and they are the boards I received. The Ardunio you said to make sure is selected is not an option in the drop down list. Sorry for all the questions just stuck have everything printed just can't get the board to work. Thank you!
Yes I think that should be achievable, you will probably want to do some googling. Here's a link that may help. www.instructables.com/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/
Thanks a lot for this tutorial. Liked , commented and subbed. Keep the great work my guy. Also is it possible can u make a tutorial for people who dont have sim rig where we can mount on ur computer table.
Thanks! On the 3D printer as I type this. I've ordered the mechanical parts from McMaster Carr here in the USA and have added the parts list to the "comments" on your Thingiverse page.
Thanks for the video and hello from the US! I got to the end of your video, saw you have an NA Miata / MX-5 (as I do), and knew you must be at least semi-credible! :) Great work on the shifter. I may give it a go once I get my button box made. Cheers!
This is an awesome design! I was wondering that do I have to use "Shifter ball plungers" and is there any alternative to it? I could not find them in my district or on the internet. Thank you so much!
You do not need them, they just help give a more defined "click" to the shifting action. Sorry to advise I cannot suggest any alternative that would easily fit in the same place.
Have done the prints, need to get the non printed components. looks awesome so far. unfortunately im not sure how im going to mount it as i dont have a rig as such but im sure ill work out a way to do so. dont suppose you have plans to do a handbrake?
I've already found the pinouts and what VCC state represents what to the fanatec wheel bases. They are all the same at least the ones with the RJ12 connector.
Hi there, I’m thinking of printing this but I just wanted to know what layer heights, nozzle and print speeds that you were running to only get 1.5 days of printing as mine are coming out to be about 2.5 days in total with a 0.2 nozzle, 60mm/s and a 0.2 layer height on an ender 3 v2?
Thanks for your interest. It will obviously depend on your printer capabilities, settings, etc. But, I use a 0.4mm nozzle which is likely the large cause for difference in print time.
i would love to make a double set up with a shifter and hand brake using the same Arduino but im wondering how would i code a 3rd switch im very new to anything that has to do with Micro components it would be great if you could reply and possibly give some pointers :D (essentially how do you program a third switch)
Springs shouldn't be too hard to find, try these in 14mm OD, 40mm long.: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000436939383.html And here's someone selling bolts: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002480877068.html
This specific is set to run as a 'joystick/gamepad" in windows. It cannot emulate a keyboard. You can probably find a keyboard library that can emulate what you want, you'll need to brush up on basic arduino Coding.
The Arduinos such as Leonardo and Micro that use the Atmega 32U4 chip have a completely different approach to implementing a USB connection compared to those using the Atmega 328 or Atmega 2560. With the 32U4 chip the ability to pretend to be a mouse or keyboard is much easier to implement.Similar solutions may not be as easy to find for a Nano.
Thanks , this is Cost effective by nearly 95pc. A question about the limit Switch, Is it like a button or it works like a lever. i mean if I press it slightly will he handbrake work a little?
Do you know if this shifter will work on a ps4? I've been looking for a sequential shifter for ages that works on a ps4 but doesn't break the bank but never thought about making one myself.
Did your Arduino board have the header pre installed? I purchased one and it has the header pins all soldered on already and will not fit in bottom of shifter. Can the pins be cut off on the bottom to make it fit after soldering?
Sketch -> Include Library -> Add .ZIP library Select the provided Joystick zip file. Sketch -> Include Library -> Choose "Joystick" from the contributed libraries section.
I had problems with the latest version of the IDE, I downloaded the version you had (1.18.3) and it worked perfectly fine. Not sure what's the reason but I post this for someone who may need it in the future.
They use a different ATmega chip which isn't as easily setup as a Joystick, for the sake of like $10 or less for a Leonardo/Micro compatible board, its almost not worth the fuss, just easier to get the Micro.
Thinking of building one of these since i recently got my first 3d printer, but I wanted to ask about mounting, what is the width of the holes on the base? I have a piece of 4080 mounted to my wheelstand for mounting my existing shifter along with some M6 T-nuts, so I need to know if the holes in the base can fit m6 bolts and how wide apart they are, or if I may need to modify the design slightly to accommodate my needs. Cheers.
The video describes the process, it is very simple. If you still cant work it out, try a basic tutorial first to get your feet wet with arduino programming, then come back!
You choose the board that matches the hardware you are using. As I mentioned in the video, there are many resources on how to use arduino, I suggest you scrub up on the basics. www.google.com/search?q=getting+started+with+arduino
It does work because I use it. If you cannot add the library, then that's not the codes fault. Perhaps try follow this tutorial from the arduino website: www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/libraries
Yes probably, you'd have to find some different code to make it work. Something like this might help you: create.arduino.cc/projecthub/vinvout1/arduino-uno-game-controller-a778c4
For a digital signal, you can run it exactly as is. If you wanted an analogue type handbrake, you'd need to change out the switches for something like a load cell.
Hello 👋🏻 I am trying to build a sequential shifter and I downloaded the arduino code from your thingiverse and I have the joystick library installed but I am getting an error. It is saying " 'joystick' not declared in this scope " Please can you help or if someone else has this problem please respond.
Awesome design, thanks for sharing! Just wondering, wouldn't a ball bearing placed in the pivot hole of the shifter shaft give a smoother feeling and more durabilty in the long run?
Are you referring to the fulcrum point of the shifter? I don't think there is really a large amount of wear expected there over time, eventually yes it may wear down, but I guess that depends how heavily one uses their shifter, and the convenience of 3d printing is, it's not too hard to make another one.
@@Bbeavis no doubt the switches work, and are cheap. A reed switch is actually cheaper though, and takes up less space. Food for though. The beauty of the reed switch is it will only activate once per exposure to the magnetic field of a magnet. One of the 2-3 filaments inside is ferrous and twitches(touch) when the magnetic field first affects it. The filament almost immediately retracts and go back to it's original position until the magnetic field is removed and then reintroduced. Can get them as normally open, normally closed, or both.
As far as I'm aware it's native to the arduino ide, if its missing I can only assume you're in the wrong menu or something went wrong, perhaps try reinstall the IDE. I show where in the menu you find it in this video. Tools->Board->Arduino/Genuino Micro
@@Bbeavis might need to reach out to you as I have no clue about it bought it cheap off fb not working could be a easy fix as it was working and then stopped so when I get a hold of it as it’s 300 mile away I will give you a message if that’s okay
Whatever they want to charge for their time and materials. Raw filament cost is $15 AUD. Plus the time, effort and cost to run the printer itself for 1.5 days. If it's a good friend, maybe they will just cover the cost of the filament.
So is £40 too much considering a full metal hydro handbrake on Amazon is like £34? A few springs and switches I'd have the same thing I'm just unsure if £40 is too much for it lol, thanks beavis
Be good if you said what to wire the other wire too. You have one wire. From each swich going to Pin 5 and 8 on one side and then what about the second wire.
@@Bbeavis sorry I must of miss that... Too hard... Yea nice one for being rude.... Fyi done so far rev counter, gear indicator and button box... Oh yea built a full sim rig among other projects completed ... But then you don't know me so...
@@matk22 You were the rude one with your initial comment buddy, all the instructions are there, including links to all the files and written documentation.
Yeah absolutely. In theory if you already had a shifter such as one from fanatec or logitech, then you could certainly use this shifter exactly as is for a digital hand brake. A few tweaks to the spring setup could make it even more legit.
If you print two of these and use one as a handbrake, could you wire the handbrake's switch to the same arduino as the shifter? So you don't have to use a separate USB for every peripheral :)
@@Pypamid I just done that, only difference is that I have modified code from my analogue handbrake (using hall sensor) so that I could use 1 Arduino for both handbrake and sequential as I already have another one that is H-pattern. (not too many free USB ports left unoccupied lol)
hi i get this error when trying to set up the arduino C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino: In function 'void setup()': C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino:24:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token Joystick.begin(); ^ C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino: In function 'void loop()': C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino:34:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token Joystick.setButton(0,!Up); ^ C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino:35:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token Joystick.setButton(1,!Down); ^ exit status 1 Compilation error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
![Aliexpress 'Budget' Sequential Shifter [REVIEW] A surprisingly robust tactile feel!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uVmNa6rmC18/mqdefault.jpg)
![Aliexpress 'Budget' Sequential Shifter [REVIEW] A surprisingly robust tactile feel!](/img/tr.png)
All the info to make your own shifter is here: beavismotorsport.com/sim-racing/
If you're interested in more details on my sim rig setup, I have heaps of info including free plans to make your own here: beavismotorsport.com/sim-racing/
Thanks for watching!!
It is compatible for ps4 ?
@@cr1gang737 No, there is currently no way to appear as a native PS4 controller using the Arduino.
@@Bbeavis ok
@@Bbeavis and if i connected it to g29, where is my ps4 connected?
What is the minimum length needed for the M12 spring ball plungers? Would 20mm be long enough?
today I have completed the construction of this gearshift. thank you very much buddy. it is absolutely rock solid. I love it
Glad you like it, happy driving!
Oh my ... I recently bought a 3d printer and never thought about making my own. Thank you for this video ❤
You are so welcome!
I was looking for a simple 3d print shifter and this one works absolutely perfect. Thanks
Glad I could help!
I think this design could be simplified a bit more. There is no need of switches if you add a bolt on the shift rod and connect the two bolts that hold the spring to +vcc. So whenever the shift touches the bolt, you short two pins on arduino and you get the same result of a switch
The switches aren't that expensive, and are made for the purpose, while a bolt with some wire attached to it is pretty agricultural. It might work, but I'm comfortable that this design is a fair compromise between cost/complexity.
Great job Brendan! Very thorough explanation video. It would be a simple matter to print a second shifter and wire it into the same arduino to be configured as a handbrake. A few code changes and you could have another axis for the drifting action!
Yeah I suppose one way to make more use of all the arduinos inputs would be to rig up an "auxiliary" port - then wire in a button box or handbrake as you suggest.
@@Bbeavis This is actually similar to what I've done - I've made up a button box, and I'm using a 6.5mm stereo audio socket to plug in my DIY sequential shifter. I made a very nasty one out of plywood which had a switch fail, so I'm going to make a new one using your idea but probably fewer printed parts as I have tons of scrap wood. The button box uses a button matrix, hence I only need three wires coming in to the shifter rather than four. But it also means I can easily disconnect the shifter if I have to move things around rather than everything needing to be tethered together.
I'm thinking of getting into sim racing, currently restoring a 92 EUNOS mx5 mk1.I've done a few naughty drifts in wet roads but rather be safe and not in jail or run over a horse.
Thinking of getting a T300 and make e break and shift DIY. Thanks for this :).
Sounds great! I've got a few MX5 videos on this channel too if you are into that sorta thing.
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I really appreciate you making the Fusion 360 file available. I converted the metric bolts to US standard sizes. Much easier to source here.
Glad it helped!
You read my mind. Would you be willing to share the imperial version of the model?
I'm currently building a transmission controller for my Ford Ranger, and I need something to let me shift the gears fully manually. I'm gonna make one of these but cast it with aluminum for my final install.
Nice, would love to see the end result in metal... good luck
Excellent build, thanks for sharing! However, I noticed 1.4mm wire diameter for the springs was way way too stiff. Maybe I got the wrong ones or my rig isn't sturdy enough but I need to source some weaker springs to make this work
Thanks for sharing mate, spring effort is certainly going to be a user preference kind of thing!
We made that! thank you for sharing everything about this project, you made my rally simulation much better!
That's awesome!
This is a beautiful piece of work. Works like a champ. Thank you.
You're welcome!
I finished mine today and i love it! Thanks alot for sharing this with us.
Youre the best!!
You're welcome.
Lol im making a sim rig out of cardboard and home items. So far i have a wheel base of a bungee cord system, with a mouse tracking system. Basically theres a pole going through the base, and the mouse tracks the movement of the pole, simulating mouse movement. This is with mouse steering, for the pedals im working on with a xbox remote and connected pedals to the triggers. The remote is in a removable box. All im missing is the main wheel for the base and a shifter.
Good luck in your DIY sim rig build :)
@@Bbeavis Just finished the wheel with a stronger shaft, inverted pedals, and a sequential shifter. GG bois.
bruh just buy a proper wheel pleaseeeee
well guess what, i did. And i have a diy cockpit. Fyi the diy wheel, pedal, and shifter set works fin.
@@3toinsanity good. the sim racing experience would be abysmal without an actual wheel and pedals
very nice, can't wait to give it a shot
Thanks, hope it works well for you.
Could this be modified to be aluminum or has anyone done it? Looks could quality but looks like it could be a cool project to make it metal and maybe add some magnets for a snappier feeling. Great video
Sure, if you have the money and machines to make it happen.
Thank you so much man, great use of time during this quarantine. Keep up the good work.👌
No problem 👍
I made a great project with my son and it works very well
That's great!
Another question is there a way to change the Ardunio code to work on a Micro Pro? It says to set in IDE as a Ardunio Leonardo. I ordered off the link in the description and they are the boards I received. The Ardunio you said to make sure is selected is not an option in the drop down list. Sorry for all the questions just stuck have everything printed just can't get the board to work. Thank you!
Yes I think that should be achievable, you will probably want to do some googling. Here's a link that may help.
www.instructables.com/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/
Cheers mate, cool design.
No problem 👍
Thanks a lot for this tutorial. Liked , commented and subbed. Keep the great work my guy. Also is it possible can u make a tutorial for people who dont have sim rig where we can mount on ur computer table.
Thanks very much. You need to get creative with how you mount it... i.e screw it to a piece of timber, and clamp that to your desk...
Thanks! On the 3D printer as I type this. I've ordered the mechanical parts from McMaster Carr here in the USA and have added the parts list to the "comments" on your Thingiverse page.
Enjoy!
Do you happen to still have this list? I think your comment was removed
awesome work mate
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the video and hello from the US! I got to the end of your video, saw you have an NA Miata / MX-5 (as I do), and knew you must be at least semi-credible! :)
Great work on the shifter. I may give it a go once I get my button box made. Cheers!
Thanks Jamie, I have a few MX-5's actually, and lots of videos on this channel about them too :-)
@@Bbeavis I'll be sure to check them out! There goes my productivity for the next week lol
Mine came out 128x85 for some reason, but I can deal with it. Awesome shifter thx! 👍
No problem 👍
Nice design mate... great video :)
Thanks a lot!
I uploaded the sketch to the Arduino Micro Pro, it's as if it only reads the gear activation switch
now I don't know how to recover my card
I do not understand your question.
you can also use a arcade stick and a usb encoder
Yeah there's lots of ways to do this kind of thing.
This is an awesome design! I was wondering that do I have to use "Shifter ball plungers" and is there any alternative to it? I could not find them in my district or on the internet. Thank you so much!
You do not need them, they just help give a more defined "click" to the shifting action. Sorry to advise I cannot suggest any alternative that would easily fit in the same place.
Awesome! ... now I just need a 3d printer... aaand a sim rig... 😔
I feel you
Or a mate with a 3D printer :-)
@@Bbeavis you can send jobs to office works for printing.
time to play some my summer car
Haha excellent.
What length are the ball plunger things
Ball Spring Loaded Grub Screw - M12x1.75 - 20mm.
Link in the description has details on all the non 3d printed parts.
How long are the grub screws?
Just printed the pieces and now just need the grub screws but there doesn't seem to be a length specified.
The ball plunger grub screws in M12x1.75, around 20-25mm long.
Excuse me sir can you make a gameplay around a nurburgring using a time attack rx7.wanna see a gear shifting around the ring if you can
Maybe someday I will get more time to make Sim racing videos again, will try do some laps of nurburgring.
Have done the prints, need to get the non printed components. looks awesome so far. unfortunately im not sure how im going to mount it as i dont have a rig as such but im sure ill work out a way to do so. dont suppose you have plans to do a handbrake?
You could easily use this same design for a hand brake, just use only one switch.
Could you program an Arduino like this to provide the necessary outputs for hooking up to a fanatec wheel base?
Possibly, it might depend on which wheel base. You'd have to google or perhaps check the fanatec forums.
I've already found the pinouts and what VCC state represents what to the fanatec wheel bases. They are all the same at least the ones with the RJ12 connector.
Hi there, I’m thinking of printing this but I just wanted to know what layer heights, nozzle and print speeds that you were running to only get 1.5 days of printing as mine are coming out to be about 2.5 days in total with a 0.2 nozzle, 60mm/s and a 0.2 layer height on an ender 3 v2?
Thanks for your interest. It will obviously depend on your printer capabilities, settings, etc. But, I use a 0.4mm nozzle which is likely the large cause for difference in print time.
@@Bbeavis sorry I did mean to say 0.4 mm nozzle
@@Bbeavis what slicer settings do you use, could you provide a link to yours if possible?
Great guide mate.
Thanks!
i would love to make a double set up with a shifter and hand brake using the same Arduino but im wondering how would i code a 3rd switch im very new to anything that has to do with Micro components it would be great if you could reply and possibly give some pointers :D
(essentially how do you program a third switch)
I'm sure it'd be easy enough to do if you ran wires across from one of the shifters to the other, and just connect it up to another input.
I really wish someone would sell some of the parts needed. the springs are hard to find and the bolts are hard to get in small numbers
Springs shouldn't be too hard to find, try these in 14mm OD, 40mm long.:
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000436939383.html
And here's someone selling bolts:
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002480877068.html
Is there a code where i can sign a key to the limit switches? Like the key o and then in the game is set o as gear up.
This specific is set to run as a 'joystick/gamepad" in windows. It cannot emulate a keyboard.
You can probably find a keyboard library that can emulate what you want, you'll need to brush up on basic arduino Coding.
@@Bbeavis I'll do some digging, thank you and btw this 3d design is really strong build, good job.
Ive got a Pro Nano sitting around, can i adapt the code to suit it as to buying pro micro?
The Arduinos such as Leonardo and Micro that use the Atmega 32U4 chip have a completely different approach to implementing a USB connection compared to those using the Atmega 328 or Atmega 2560.
With the 32U4 chip the ability to pretend to be a mouse or keyboard is much easier to implement.Similar solutions may not be as easy to find for a Nano.
Do you printed the shaft and mainbody in draft mode?
I am not sure what you mean by draft mode.
@@Bbeavis so fast Mode which you can select in your slicer. Its often Set as 0,3mm per Layer. But i guess you did Not
Nice one, kind of you to share
No worries
Thanks , this is Cost effective by nearly 95pc. A question about the limit Switch, Is it like a button or it works like a lever. i mean if I press it slightly will he handbrake work a little?
Glad to help. The switch is digital, on or off.
@@Bbeavis Thanks 🙏 ❤
Do you know if this shifter will work on a ps4? I've been looking for a sequential shifter for ages that works on a ps4 but doesn't break the bank but never thought about making one myself.
It is for PC only sorry.
You da man, Beavis!
Cheers ya goose!
nice vid, would this work as an e brake?
Yes it does.
@@Bbeavis cool
Did your Arduino board have the header pre installed? I purchased one and it has the header pins all soldered on already and will not fit in bottom of shifter. Can the pins be cut off on the bottom to make it fit after soldering?
Usually you have to solder pins/wires yourself. Assume you can 'unsolder' the pins that are on there.
Im having problems with the arduino, it doesn´t let me include the library into the IDE, so I can´t compile it ¿Any ideas?
Sketch -> Include Library -> Add .ZIP library
Select the provided Joystick zip file.
Sketch -> Include Library -> Choose "Joystick" from the contributed libraries section.
I had problems with the latest version of the IDE, I downloaded the version you had (1.18.3) and it worked perfectly fine. Not sure what's the reason but I post this for someone who may need it in the future.
@Beavis Motorsports could a Nano be used over the Micro pro? thanks
They use a different ATmega chip which isn't as easily setup as a Joystick, for the sake of like $10 or less for a Leonardo/Micro compatible board, its almost not worth the fuss, just easier to get the Micro.
@@Bbeavis thank you for the help
Can someone tell me how they printed the main body? There is no way I get the support out of the threads and holes
Keep support density to a minimum, remove with needle nose pliers, then clean threads with a tap.
Thinking of building one of these since i recently got my first 3d printer, but I wanted to ask about mounting, what is the width of the holes on the base? I have a piece of 4080 mounted to my wheelstand for mounting my existing shifter along with some M6 T-nuts, so I need to know if the holes in the base can fit m6 bolts and how wide apart they are, or if I may need to modify the design slightly to accommodate my needs.
Cheers.
The mounting holes are 74mm x 116mm centre to centre.
Function for G29 Ps4 if I connect the DB9 cable?
No, there is currently no way to appear as a native PS4 controller using the Arduino.
@@Bbeavis how do i create a sequencial shifter that i can link directly under my G29?
what kind of springs do you recommend? I kind of want a stiff and raw mechanical feel but I have no idea how to tell springs apart
Link for details on all the parts used, including springs, is in the description.
@@Bbeavis thanks. I have ordered all the parts and have just finished printing the main body. I cant wait to build it!!
Mistakenly ive bought 1.8mm wire springs, for anyone wondering these are WAY too hard for this project :D
Sorry to hear, thanks for sharing the warning with others.
Do you think a joystick usb encoder work instead of the Arduino?
Yeah you could make something work, its just 2 switches essentially.
Is there a specific code for use with an Xbox?
The code provided is for Windows only sorry.
Hello
awesome design.
any chance you could do some mods to it?
id like to mount mine to my rig vertically.
could you make an L shaped shifter shaft?
Hi Karl, I've added a new shaft to the thingiverse link for you
@@Bbeavis you sir are a hero.
much appreciated
How about the program sir?🙏🙏🙏 Please the tutor🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
The video describes the process, it is very simple. If you still cant work it out, try a basic tutorial first to get your feet wet with arduino programming, then come back!
Can i use this on playstation3 ?
Not with what is outlined in the video, you'd need to find out if there's a way to have an Arduino interface with a PS3.
cool video
might make it one day, when i have money to buy the steering wheel.. haha
You can do it!
@@Bbeavis welp, im working on it alright
looking forward to that day
can i choose "sparkfun pro micro"?
You choose the board that matches the hardware you are using. As I mentioned in the video, there are many resources on how to use arduino, I suggest you scrub up on the basics.
www.google.com/search?q=getting+started+with+arduino
@@Bbeavis thanks👍😊
the arduino code doesnt even work i cant ad the zip to library
It does work because I use it. If you cannot add the library, then that's not the codes fault.
Perhaps try follow this tutorial from the arduino website:
www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/libraries
Can this be done with an arduino Uno?
Yes probably, you'd have to find some different code to make it work. Something like this might help you:
create.arduino.cc/projecthub/vinvout1/arduino-uno-game-controller-a778c4
It's a nice project!
Thank you.
#error The Joystick library requires Arduino IDE 1.6.6 or greater. Please update your IDE.
Sorry to hear, let us know if you get it fixed up.
how can i run a handbrake code with this ?
For a digital signal, you can run it exactly as is. If you wanted an analogue type handbrake, you'd need to change out the switches for something like a load cell.
Hello 👋🏻
I am trying to build a sequential shifter and I downloaded the arduino code from your thingiverse and I have the joystick library installed but I am getting an error.
It is saying " 'joystick' not declared in this scope "
Please can you help or if someone else has this problem please respond.
Sounds like you need to include the library.
whats the overall height of this shifter
About 236mm without the shift knob. 326mm with the shift knob.
Great job, make a h shifter, handbrake and pedals tutorial to
Thanks mate.
Being a fellow Aussie myself, how much would you sell all the 3d printed parts for? 😉
Sorry Jimmy I'm not selling these mate, plans are free for you to download though :-)
Will this work with a g920 on Xbox?
No. PC only.
Ok, thanks!
where can i ge the code?
You can download the 3D model and Arduino code via Thingiverse , link is in the description.
bro i upload the sim shifter in aduino ide but ide said joystick.h: No such file or directory.
can i change -> "joystick.h"?
Sketch -> Include Library -> Add .ZIP library...
Select the included joystick zip library provdied in the download.
@@Bbeavis thanks bro! U are
nice!!
I am so Thankfull to you. i dont need to creat it my self
Thanks for stopping by.
You awesome bro!
You too 😆
Awesome design, thanks for sharing! Just wondering, wouldn't a ball bearing placed in the pivot hole of the shifter shaft give a smoother feeling and more durabilty in the long run?
Are you referring to the fulcrum point of the shifter? I don't think there is really a large amount of wear expected there over time, eventually yes it may wear down, but I guess that depends how heavily one uses their shifter, and the convenience of 3d printing is, it's not too hard to make another one.
Nice mechanical design there mate looks the goods
Thanks 👍
Willing to make me one for commision?
Thanks for asking, but sorry I cannot. If you don't have a 3d printer, maybe try asking a mate to print the parts for you?
Is this possible for Xbox?
Love the tutorial. Thanks :)
Unfortunately not with the arduino code used here.
@@Bbeavis What code would i use?
Can it be used on Ps4
Unfortunately it is for PC.
just waiting for a e brake and then im all set up
You could make two of these shifters and, with a few tweaks, use one as a hand brake.
@@Bbeavis i think i Ude the Same Base but with a Metal Pipe and Just one switch
can´t find the code
Go to the download link from thingiverse, there is a file named Arduino.zip:
beavismotorsport.com/sim-racing/diy-sequential-shifter/
Why not just use magnets and reed switches? No contact, so will last alot lo gee.
Why not do a lot of things differently.... These switches worked, are cheap, are easy to use. I'm sure they'll outlast some of the other components.
@@Bbeavis no doubt the switches work, and are cheap. A reed switch is actually cheaper though, and takes up less space. Food for though.
The beauty of the reed switch is it will only activate once per exposure to the magnetic field of a magnet. One of the 2-3 filaments inside is ferrous and twitches(touch) when the magnetic field first affects it. The filament almost immediately retracts and go back to it's original position until the magnetic field is removed and then reintroduced. Can get them as normally open, normally closed, or both.
@@exisfohdr3904 Cool. Sounds like you could design a shifter to use reed switches then.
@@Bbeavis yeah, sure seems that way. Isn't sharing ideas awesome!
bro i have a more question
i can't find genuino microㅠㅠ
As far as I'm aware it's native to the arduino ide, if its missing I can only assume you're in the wrong menu or something went wrong, perhaps try reinstall the IDE. I show where in the menu you find it in this video. Tools->Board->Arduino/Genuino Micro
going to have to dig out my printer and give this ago just hop it still works. if not would you make one for me and ill buy it :D
Fix that printer, it's worth it!
@@Bbeavis might need to reach out to you as I have no clue about it bought it cheap off fb not working could be a easy fix as it was working and then stopped so when I get a hold of it as it’s 300 mile away I will give you a message if that’s okay
what should i pay for somebody to print this in £'s ?
Whatever they want to charge for their time and materials. Raw filament cost is $15 AUD. Plus the time, effort and cost to run the printer itself for 1.5 days. If it's a good friend, maybe they will just cover the cost of the filament.
So is £40 too much considering a full metal hydro handbrake on Amazon is like £34? A few springs and switches I'd have the same thing I'm just unsure if £40 is too much for it lol, thanks beavis
Be good if you said what to wire the other wire too. You have one wire. From each swich going to Pin 5 and 8 on one side and then what about the second wire.
I did say, but if you can't work it out, then this build is too hard for you.
@@Bbeavis sorry I must of miss that... Too hard... Yea nice one for being rude.... Fyi done so far rev counter, gear indicator and button box... Oh yea built a full sim rig among other projects completed ... But then you don't know me so...
@@matk22 You were the rude one with your initial comment buddy, all the instructions are there, including links to all the files and written documentation.
This wouldn’t be hard to repurpose into a hand brake for the guys into drift. Keen to give it a crack..
Yeah absolutely. In theory if you already had a shifter such as one from fanatec or logitech, then you could certainly use this shifter exactly as is for a digital hand brake. A few tweaks to the spring setup could make it even more legit.
If you print two of these and use one as a handbrake, could you wire the handbrake's switch to the same arduino as the shifter? So you don't have to use a separate USB for every peripheral :)
@@Pypamid I think all you would have to do is add a pin number in the code
@@Pypamid I just done that, only difference is that I have modified code from my analogue handbrake (using hall sensor) so that I could use 1 Arduino for both handbrake and sequential as I already have another one that is H-pattern. (not too many free USB ports left unoccupied lol)
I clicked this thinking it was for the mx5 😔
That's a very reasonable assumption. :-) Sadly, not yet!
i this on thingy verse
Yes, all the details are in the video and the description - you could've answered your own question with 30seconds of effort. Don't be so lazy.
hi i get this error when trying to set up the arduino
C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino: In function 'void setup()':
C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino:24:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.begin();
^
C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino: In function 'void loop()':
C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino:34:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.setButton(0,!Up);
^
C:\Users\camer\OneDrive\Desktop\Arduino\DIYSimShifter\DIYSimShifter.ino:35:11: error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Joystick.setButton(1,!Down);
^
exit status 1
Compilation error: expected unqualified-id before '.' token
Did you install the joystick library in your ide?