Bonsai trunk chop | how to develop trunk movement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- The tools I used in this video are a Dremel Lite cordless (rechargeable) and a Bosch Rotary Professional "GRO" + L-Boxx Case, 2 Li-ion batteries and charger. You can see them at Amazon at these links:
Dremel Lite (US) - $49.97 - amzn.to/3fDt0Ms
Dremel Lite (UK) - amzn.to/3fFRTr0
Dremel Lite (DE) - amzn.to/31GLfII
Bosch GRO (UK) - amzn.to/3wjdWJX
Bosch GRO (DE) - amzn.to/2R4asuF
These links take you to Amazon with my affiliate ID. So if you decide to purchase the tool, you are also buying me a coffee without costing you any extra! Thank you.
I have both tools, but to help you decide: the Dremel is lightweight and great for carving jobs of up to 30 minutes. The Bosch is heavier and more powerful, and the li-ion battery lasts up to an hour.
I also used a Ryuga branch saw, but that appears not to be available now.
In this video, I show you how to develop interesting and natural looking trunk movement on your bonsai tree. Demo with a Portuguese oak (Quercus Fajigo).
After explaining this bonsai technique, I put it into practice on a Portuguese Oak pre-bonsai. I use a branch saw, a small rotational disc saw and a Dremel rotational sanding tool. I also show another oak on which I did the same procedure a year ago. Through the video, you can see plenty of snow scenes. Oak trees can survive the freezing temperatures without problem.
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Music credits:
Onycs - Enliven
- / onycsmusic - / onycsmusic
Infraction - Chill Glitch IDM / Abstract Wall
- inaudio.org/track/abstract-wa...
- • Chill Glitch IDM by In...
Nomyn - Flow
- / nomyn
- / @nomynmusic
Koshun Nakao - Winter Sky
- / user-46936542-391565998
00:00 Intro
00:56 Portuguese Oak
02:14 Developing Trunk Movement
05:09 Pruning & marking
06:02 Sawing
06:45 beautiful snow
08:24 Taper and carving
10:00 Inspecting & sealing
11:30 1 year later
12:33 Don't miss!
#bonsai #bonsaitree #trunkchop - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
This channel is super underrated, best video I've seen the last couple days
Thanks so much for your kind words and vote of confidence! Please share the video with your friends colleagues, with a bit of luck TH-cam will start offering my videos to new viewers!! 😊👍🏻
Such a good video Dave, animation, practical work and fun in the snow!
Thanks Nigel, you can probably see I enjoyed making this one!
I just notice. You also watch him. Both of you are my Idol. Keep all video coming Nigel.
instablaster
Watching in 2022, you are not only topical but have incredible premonition as "operation big dog" is launched to save the leader!
That is hilarious! At least he calls himself a big dog!
I'm certainly not going to try and discuss politics on a bonsai channel... but maybe that one liner could be true about any country's leader at some moment during their time on power...
Best bonsai channel
Thank you so much! 😊
Another great tutorial. Love your channel. One of the best. Thanks
Thanks Matt! Love your comments! 😊😊😊
Nicely done!
Thanks Jack! 🌳👍🏻
Great Dave. Very very good animation. Excelent!
Thanks so much, glad you liked it!
I love your videos! Please keep them coming!
Thank you! I will 😊
Wow! That was a ton of work but well worth it. Looking great. Quite an inspiration.
Thank you!! I think it'll be a few years before these get moved to a bonsai pot, but it's an enjoyable few years!
The rotary tool, a must have for every home.
Yes!!! 😊
Love the animation!
Thank you!!
Great new update ❤❤❤
Thanks!!
This video is my latest update: th-cam.com/video/F7o8z5eT_Uw/w-d-xo.html
Someone taught me to always let your trees grow crazy while achieving somewhat of the shape you want in the end but once you have the thickness you like that’s when you chop it and start the tapering process. I have a 40 year old ficus I just chopped hard last year and I feel like every two inches above my chop I’ll just continue chipping and creating nice movement. I’m glad I found this video cus that lets me know that I’m not doing anything wrong
Sounds like a great project. If it's every two years, you're lucky, and is probably possible because it is a ficus. Ficuses are great - both vigorous and forgiving.
But my oaks will need a new chop every three years, or maybe after four. Lots of patience required!
Thumbs up just for jumping in the snow at the end!! :) Nice video!
Thanks so much!! 👍🏻
Love your videos keep them coming
Thank you so much! 😊👍🏻
looking forward to seeing how it has come along soon :) thanks for all your info. I have just started out and have found you the most helpful/easiest to understand. not to say others aren't i just understand you the best :) thanks for everything you do mate
Thank you Jamie! It's always good to hear when more people get into bonsai. 🌳👍🏻
Great explanation
Thank you! 😊
Great Video!
Thank you!
I love your videos!!!!!!
Thanks so much! 🌳👍🏻
I really liked the marker trick to outline what needs to be cut. Always learning from this channel! 👌
Thanks, glad to help! My daughter just watched the video and had a go at me for taking one of her markers! Oops 😊
@@BlueSkyBonsai Just don't use the wife's kitchenware without permission like I did. I used her colindier once because I didn't have a soil sifter. That was a bad choice. 😂 Since then I bought a soil sifter. Lesson learned.
@@bonsaipiper3773 I'm totally with you on this point, it was bad enough using tupperware pots for soil storage.. I was consigned to the dog house for a few days after that!
Hello from the snowy mountains Australia. Ive just found your channel and im liking it very much.
Thanks bunches for sharing.
Hi and thanks, glad you're liking my videos. Hope your winter wasn't too severe, enjoy the spring, it's my favourite time of year. Do you have many bonsai?
Nice one , nice bgm
Thanks! I wish everyone liked the bgm!!
great video
Thanks much!
Great video. Subscribed.
Thank you so much!
Great stuff. Both are coming along nicely. Crazy amounts of snow too!! I also didn’t think you’d own a coat, let alone gloves 😆
Cheers Ian! Hahaha I do, that coat is in the cupboard most of the time. But you're right, what was I thinking wearing a coat and gloves in a video?! 😂
Great content thanks.
Thank you Stephen!
Nice! that's what I'm talking about!
around here everybody calls me El Chop'o cus everything I get, I chop 🤣
Cheers Mr El Chopo! 😂👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai nice video bro I still haven't found how to make an intro and u get downn through the whole video 🤣 all I know is to trim the video 😅
@@cencalbonsai6429 yeah but whatever music you add there will always be someone who doesn't like it ... so anyways just do your thing and enjoy it! 🍻👍🏻
The snow made me happy. I am going to have to dig up the tree that I put in the ground a little over a week ago :/ I didn't know to leave the curve, and buried it so that the truck goes straight up. If I redo, it will have a beautiful curve to start with ♥
Sounds like a good plan! Be gentle with the roots, don't let them dry out now in the warmer months.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thanks 😊
Can't wait for an exciting 2021 and see the channel grow!
Thanks! Hey at least while it's a small channel I'm still able to respond to all the comments! 😊👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai even when you'll hit 10 million subscribers, I'll expect a reply!! Lol..
@@edinborogh lol, you're right I must give priority to all the first subscribers 😊
Smart about the lower root plane! :) It also happens for me when little trees grow up from the ivy by my house, the trunk bases have crazy movement where they grew up through the ivy. :)
Cheers Zack! The only thing to watch out for is if the lower trunk has some crazy movement then the upper trunk is dead straight, doesn't looks so good. I guess the ideal is the buried trunk has about the same level of curvature as the rest of the tree. Never quite seems to be that way though in reality!
@@BlueSkyBonsai lol, true, I trunk chop them as well :)
@@zackau9807 sounds like I'm in good company!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Yes! :)
Good work..my friend🤩
Thanks! Really enjoyed this one even though it was freezing cold!!
Thank you for this well explained video. That wood was hard to cut.
Thanks for watching and commenting! You're right it was a real tough little trunk. 💪🏻🌳
Great video Dave. My broski Ian at back garden recommended your channel. Im excited to catch up on some more this weekend. Cheers 😎🍺🍺
Thanks Jered, great to see you over here! Hope you enjoy them. Knowing you're a keen footy fan you might catch a clip of my son doing keepy uppy at the end of the second bonsai garden vid. Cheers! 🍻🍻👍🏻
Good technical , I am listening my friend
Thanks for listening and commenting!! 🌳👍🏻
Great video, really enjoyed it 👍
Thanks J, glad you enjoyed it! Probably won't see snow again here for a coyple of years ...
Sometimes I wish I could say that 😄
@@BonsaiJCan lol sounds like you need a vacation to somewhere warm 🌞
Watched this again with my newer account 😜
But also liked the look of 1:41 to.
With the side branch and the one on the main hiding the trunk chop a little 😂😉👍
And can't see the ugly root because of the subtitles 🤣🤣😜
Yup! Subtitles always encroach too much on the screen space. Anyway, yeah it's not a totally clear-cut decision where the front is, but now 2 years after this video, the carving is already looking better. Thanks for your comments! 😊👍
Nice video
Thank you!
Amazing
Thanks! 😊
This is very enteresting thaks for sharing.....
Thank you my friend!
I have an idea developing trunks but it is long process since i havent a knowledge about carving the trunks. I am still now practicing.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Have fun practicing!
Great video. I like the attention to detail when editing, excellent job with matching up your audio with the cuts. I need to improve my editing game, cause this is really pleasant to the viewer.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Some people complain about the music, but, you can never please everyone!
True that. Lol
I am really enjoying your videos sir. Since i discovered ur channel, there's an itch to view all ur videos. Very informative snd it really help me a lot on my bonsai journey. Btw, im just a newbie from the philippines. God bless snd more power
Thanks Jose Mg! Happy to hear you're enjoying my videos. Have fun!
Great Video Dave, and one does not see many video in trunk chop. It is hard to get a miniature Bonsai saw that will give a good clean cut.
Thanks Brendan! Yes that branch saw is great for branches but not so good for oak trunks... The disc saw is pretty good, but just didn't get deep enough.
I traditionally have always used sphagnum moss on all my trees straight after repotting to retain moisture through the hot summer months here in Melbourne but this summer I have decided to try without it for 2 reasons you have suggested.
1 when the moss dries it repels water 2 its difficult to tell how dry or moist the soil is meaning you could not be watering based on the moss when in fact the soil below the moss actually needs it.
I'm finding it's much more reliable knowing when you need to water without the moss and the trees seem to be fine.
Glenn
Yep those two reasons, plus the bird attacks in my case, that's why I don't intentionally 'seed' the moss but like I said there's enough of it about that each year the spores do their own distribution. After repotting sensitive or small trees, I just cover them with a clear plastic bag or put them in the humidity tent for a couple of weeks so that the leaves don't dry due to the depleted roots. I haven't really understood the practice of putting sphaggy on top of the soil, for your two reasons, also straight after repotting the root system is unable to 'drink' much water for a few days so it's not necessary to dress it with sphagnum anyway. Maybe it would be helpful on the cut roots themselves, but I've never found it necessary.
Merry Christmas!
Amazing.. I like this vidio.. 🙏
Thank you! 😊
I’ll be interested in seeing how the concave area ground out of the trunk calluses over.
Thanks! I'll be sure to update, if not during the year then definitely next winter when I go back to prune its little brother again. Cheers!
hello friend. Like the video and the tree.
Thank you my friend, glad you enjoyed it! It will be a few years before this is a beautiful bonsai of course. But like you said before, it's the "doing" that is the fun part 🌳👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai yes friend, "doing" is the best and fun part.
Those oaks should develop into beautiful trees in time.
Cheers Ben, yes I think so too. These trees are not 1- or 2-year projects.. maybe 10 years 👍🏻
thank you for sharing vidio,... demo with a Portuguese oak(quercus Fajigo)..
And thank you for watching and commenting! 🌳👍🏻
3:37 lol. Didnt see that one coming!
Thanks for calling it out! 😉
i would look at air-layering the oak tree quite high up..my personal opinion & try and create a nice nebari
Thanks, yes that might indeed be the best plan for this tree.
Wow! More snow than we have up here.
Hahaha Europe has turned upside down!! It's nearly all melted here by now though - only the biggest ice piles remain. Cheers for watching and commenting! 😊👍🏻
Waaaiiit a second...was that a SNOW WHITE BOARD?!?! BRILLIANT!!! I can’t wait till I’m in full screen mode tonight. I’ll be dropping full threads of comments on this excellent video! Cheers David, be back soon.
Heey I thought you'd like that! Although when I first read your comment I somehow read WHITE SNOW BOARD 😆 anyway I look forward to your threads of comments in the morning, off to bedfordshire now 🍻👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai so here’s something I’ve been wondering about: I only became aware of the concept of “winter pruning” for deciduous trees recently. For the past couple years (my entire bonsai career), I’ve been making the big structural moves in the early spring, as buds are swelling. From what I now understand, the problem with that is that the trees bleed more (though my Norway maples don’t seem to give a shit). My question: what risks do I run pruning now, in the middle of winter, when temperatures average below freezing and dip down pretty low at night? Do I wait for the freezing to ease up at this point?
@@BostonBonsaiIdiot Right. Great question. I'm really a scientist at heart and I'm not content giving an answer without knowing all the underlying biochemical processes, which I don't.
But I can tell you I have never lost any tree or plant after chopping branches in midwinter. I've always used a wound sealant around the cut, because I've read that fungal spores in water can enter the tree around the broken cambium. Also, at this time of year deciduous trees outside in total dormancy don't "bleed" sap, but in spring they do. But the jury is out, some horticulturists say that a tree's own sap is the best natural sealant for that tree... But to me, regardless of the efficacy of a sealant, when you chop off a big branch in spring you're also removing a significant percentage of the tree's sugars that were stored as starch in the root base over winter. Hence the old practice, prune branches in winter, prune roots in spring. (I learnt that in UK, which is probably closer to the Boston climate than Madrid). The energy is in the roots and trunk base over winter, and in spring it's all up in the branches pushing out buds.
But here's the part that I would say is on scientifically shaky ground:
I have also read that trees with a major branch cut in winter lose their cold tolerance for 5-10 days, so don't do a big chop if you're expecting hard frost in the next 5 days... but I'm dubious about that because I have found no biological explanation or evidence-based information to back it up. And nor have I had any trees die on me after winter pruning... so I probably haven't answered your question exactly but does this help?
@@BlueSkyBonsai right?? I feel like the idea that’s it’s dangerous has also found its way into my head but I totally can’t substantiate it. It may be anecdotal, but I can at least rely on my experience (what little there is) and say that Norway Maples seem to respond well to early spring prunings. I may just wait till the worst of the winter is over, do the hard chops, and use sealant, but ONLY because my sister got me some for Christmas. Also I have no desire to crawl under the deck and dislodge the pots from the frozen ground at this point. Just not appealing. Next year I will do some early December pruning. Thanks bro, this is the best comment that anyone has ever left on any TH-cam video in the history of TH-cam. Fact.
@@BostonBonsaiIdiot Hahaha cheers bro, but you'll need to substantiate that with irrefutable evidence!
I can totally relate to not wanting to do any work outdoors on the wee trees in the worst of winter. As an alternative I have a few indoor trees that need some work, but indoor videoing is nearly impossible with the amount of commotion and noise that my kids permanently emit. So I will just do some unrecorded pruning today, a guilty pleasure which takes about a third the time that filming it would take.
I would love to have a dedicated plant room like Nigel but there is NO WAY IN HELL that the boss here would sign off that proposition. 🤔
Thank Dave for another amazing video! So many questions about what I saw here...... Is there a way to determine if wiring into S shape is better than growing it into an S shape? I picked up a little mame/shohin sized pre bonsai california live oak and I've been contemplating what kind of techniques I want to apply to it. I've heard that oaks in general don't tolerate wiring as well, would you consider that a good reason to use the trunk chop method? Or would that not matter since the material I have is so young?
Thanks Garrett! A lot of bonsai nurseries use wiring for the typical S shape because it's a lot quicker than the chop and grow method. Young oaks can take wiring fine, up to about 1/4" inch diameter but like with all trees you need to keep a close eye so the wiring doesn't dig in and spoil the bark.
California live oak is beautiful species.. enjoy ot! 🌳👍🏻
I’m envious of all your oaks 😊 are these the ones that produce cork bark? How many oaks do you have?
Cheers Darren 👍🏻 These Portuguese oaks aren't cork oaks, but they look similar. Most of my oak collection are still seedlings, it's been quite an eye opener just how many species of oak there are!!
Super
Thanks 😊👍🏻
Great video! I've got a trident maple in the ground that needs a trunk chop. It's currently winter. Would it be acceptable to chop the trunk now and do root work in a month when it starts to bud? My concern is that I haven't dug it up in a couple of years and it really needs root work (but also starting to develop a reverse taper so needs trunk chop too!). Thanks!
Thank you! By now it's quite late winter, so if there's any chance that the sap has started to rise up again then I wouldn't risk the chop. Can you tell if the buds are still totally dormant, and for example when did it start budding last year? Maybe it will be okay. Purely from a health point of view I would say the root work is more important and probably if it were mine I would leave the trunk chop until December. You *can* chop a trunk in June and have it recover over the remainder of summer. But personally I prefer in December or early January because it doesn't "bleed" any sap then. You could pinch out a lot of the top growth in spring when then the first flush is pushing out, to try to limit any further inverse taper. Or in summer keep pruning back everything above the point you're concerned about, consider defoliating to reduce the vigour. HTH.
Nice...
Thanks!
Master 🙏🙏
Thanks! But I'm just a humble hobbiest!
0:33 stunning snowing scenes there Dave, thanks for sharing.
Perfect timing again for me, as you've demonstrated what I need to do with my chunky Hornbeam with a very similar trunk chop - can I borrow that Dremel? 🤪
Awesome Friday night viewing... now where's my Jager!
Thanks Kate! The dremel lite was only 50€ in Amazon, its great. Lasts for abour 25 minutes running time before battery recharge, which is enough for one tree. Had to buy the metal bits separately. Jager sounds good, is that your lockdown medicine? 😉👍🏻
Another great and informative video Dave. Thanks for sharing your knowledge 😁 why would you hollow away the chop? Doesn't that make the wound even deeper?
Thanks so much! The REAL wound wood is only round the edge: the cork and cambium layers. The central wood is more or less dead, so you can carve that out without harming the tree. If I left it a flat plane (like last year's chop) then the callus grows upwards in a ring around the wound and that happened a bit on last year's tree but not too bad. By hollowing into the chop this year, I'm trying to get the callus to grow inwards rather than upwards. So the wound will hopefully get covered over in a few years. That's the theory anyway 😊🌳👍🏻
@@_mu. thank you!! I haven't heard of using aluminium to heal calluses, but I have often scratched the inside of callus wood to break the periderm and make it continue callusing towards the centre. In summer the callusing happens much quicker. Cheers 🌳👍🏻
When is the best time to do this on a deciduous ?
Hey Dave, i have a question. Do you need to chop the trunk higher everytime? Or can you also choose to chop the trunk even lower the next year?
Great video btw.
Thanks!
You can chop it lower. But when you do that you "reset the timer", as it were. That's to say, you start again from your new chop location. Considering after each chop you need to wait a few years for the new shoot to thicken before your next chop, depending on the species. HTH.
Plus a bigger callus with each chop
Thank you for such an inspiring video! One question, are you worried about the frost with winter pruning, and is there something to keep an eye on when we do winter pruning? Very Best!
Thanks Slobodan! That wood sealant should protect the wound from die back caused by frost. Nothing specifically to watch for, but I did make a couple of recommendations in this video about winter pruning: th-cam.com/video/TROnvlE4JF4/w-d-xo.html
Cheers 🍻👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you for your time!
@@MisterBobi glad to help!
Very helpful! Do you have any examples of chopped trunks that have been healing for several years? I'd like to see how this turns out in the long run.
Glad you found it helpful! Take a look at this picture, I usually face this chop towards the side or rear but it has nearly healed over completely: flic.kr/p/2iGuvKb
Very nice! Thanks for your response
Hi there! Awesome, informative video. Thank you so much. I was wondering how the process is to work a tree of that size into such a small pot? I bought some net pots for aquascapes but they are like colanders for pasta. I would like to get a small oak tree into one of them but I am scared to cut so many roots off and also trunk chop. Do you recommend one before the other?
Hi, and thanks!
It *is* possible to do a major trunk chop and root work in the same year, but personally I wouldn't risk it. I would do the trunk chop one year and root pruning the following year. To try to keep the tree's energy levels always high.
When you're adapting a large tree to a small pot you usually need to do it over a few years.
Also, oaks are wonderful but it's really time-critical that the repotting is in early spring just as you see the leaf buds swelling. I have lost oaks by repotting too late in summer, when the fewer roots just couldn't support the large leaf area.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you so much! Would you recommend the trunk chop first in the larger nursery pot that it is in? And then once that starts to heal over in a year or two, I can gradually decrease the size of pot since there will be less foliage for the tree to maintain?
@@ilowmein yes that's the order I would do it in. A stump with good roots can push out a lot of new top growth this year. Then start the root work next year late-winter or early spring. If you did both jobs this winter, it might survive with lower energy, but why risk it??
Also, a tall tree with relatively few roots is a big risk in the wind. The reverse isn't so... there's no risk having a short tree with lots of roots!
Great content as per usual!
I have one suggestion though. I find the volume levels of you speaking and the music a bit off. I usually turn the volume up when you speak, and turn the volume down for the music.
I dunno if it has anything to do with that I'm viewing on the phone.
Looking forward for the next video!
Thanks Robbas! I appreciate the suggestion. Yes the trouble is I like the music more than my own voice 😂 anyway, perhaps I liked the music in the middle a bit too much so yes it's too loud. Sorry bout that!
Hi Robert! I have created a non-music version of this video, and a few others, to see if this works. Are you interested in seeing the same video but without music? It only has the music at the introduction and in the snow fun scenes. Not during my talking. If you're interested, please consider watching it on my Patreon channel here: www.patreon.com/blueskybonsai - Because it's Patreon it would cost money to view the videos - as little as only $1 US Dollar. But I'm *not* doing this to make money, in fact I will donate the earnings to three charities (Cancer research, Alzheimers and Save the Children). I hope you decide to subscribe there. If you do, I will continue to post ALL my videos there with no background music while I'm talking. That's a promise.
While I've got you if you don't mind 2 questions
In Melbourne here it gets very hot at times, it's 33c tomorrow and 37c Tuesday and concerning my Chinese Elm and Trident maple.
The Elm is doing fantastic beautiful dark green leaves and now 5-6 cm of new growth on the 2nd flush but the original dark green leaves are starting to drop of, so interesting.
Similar thing with the Maple, doing very well and then the tips of the leaves started turning brown, has gradually overtaken the whole leaf on some and they to are falling off.
Bit different as the Elm leaves didn't turn brown but both frustrating. Any thoughts?
One of my contacts here thought the Maple was lack of nitrogen but I'm not so sure.
Do both trees have a temperature tolerance do you think and maybe just too hot and need to be brought inside if temperatures get above say 26c as an example or is it under or over watering. They are both in an open mix so I would think over watering is not the issue but then I give them enough water in my opinion so I don't know, the Maple is putting on its 2nd flush so the tree can't be that unhappy but I'm nearly at my wits end as to what's going on and that's the main reason for taking the sphag moss off so I can actually view the soil and moisture level.
Any imput would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Glenn
Hi Glenn, could I ask you a favour, could you please copy and paste your question to the comments on my latest video, th-cam.com/video/ObHCDv2-2MA/w-d-xo.html - that way other viewers watching it can also get the benefit of my answer, which tends not to be the case on older videos! In the meantime I'll go drafting my answers. Thanks!
When is the best time to do big trunk chops ?
It ultimately depends on the species. And your climate. In general terms, deciduous trees can be chopped in late autumn, a couple of weeks after they drop their leaves, and before the weather gets too cold. The tree is dormant so all its energy is stored in the trunk base and roots. But tropical and evergreen trees are more complex. Tropical - better in early summer. Conifers - don't chop the trunk unless you keep at least 50% of the foliage on the tree.
Other experts might give different advice, but these are my recommendations to give your tree the best chance if survival and recovery. Hope that helps!
Did you deliberaty leave such a long time back between the initial mark off followed by the first session of sawing & the final sawing session?
Not deliberately; family matters got in rhe way. Ideally I would have liked to finish the job in the same day.
@@BlueSkyBonsai : Thank you Dave.
Hi Dave thanks for the video! I recently aquired a lovely european beech which I'm considering giving the a similar treatment. I'm also concerned that the lower branches have become too thick and are out of proportion with the main trunk. Could you possibly give me any advice if I send some photos your way?
Hi Toby, the beech sounds great, yes please send the photos to dave@blueskybonsai.net I'll be happy to look. Keep in mind though, if you ask 10 different bonsai aficionados their advice you'll probably get 10 different opinions! It's possible that a large low branch can look too big, but that happens all the time in nature. Also, the alternative, a large trunk scar visible for many years can look manmade. It's always a tough decision.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Hi Dave I've finally sent the photos to you! Thanks very much in advance
@@tobywilson4876 received - just replying now. It's a really nice beech! A good acquisition 🌳👍🏻
Hi Dave, I have a question. I just got a bonsai tree (it looks like a Ficus Microcarpa ) and it kinda looks like the stump is sort of cut off but not by too much. It isn’t too big and its growing some branches. The top of the stump is like a dark brown ish. Will it grow taller or will it just stay that size?
(sorry im new to bonsai trees 😅)
Hi! It will grow shoots in an upward direction, and after a time you can choose one of those as the new main leader and let it grow big. But the trunk chop itself will not grow. It's possible that from the bark around the chop could produce new shoots. If not you will need to choose one from a bit lower.
Thank you so much! That was really helpful and I’m looking forward to seeing it grow! You’re amazing!
Can a trunk chop fail? Like the tree won't produce new shoots ? And can the tree eventually die off?
Good question, yes on a coniferous evergreen tree, a trunk chop can potentially kill the tree if you remove too much foliage.
But I have never killed a deciduous tree by chopping the trunk in winter.
You could probably seriously jeopardise its health if you chop the top half in spring while it is just budding out. Maybe that would kill a week specimen.
Do you know to best grow linden (tilia) trees from seeds? I couldn't really find much useful online. But I picked a bunch of seeds off a tree today. XD
Hi I've never grown Tilia, but I hear they make excellent bonsai. Be aware that growing bonsai from seed, while tremendously satisfying, also takes a lot of patience because it will be several years before it looks like an image of a big tree. But it's truly worth the wait 😊
Informative - but I didn't understand why you carved in a depression in the trunk. Is it to avoid excessive bulging when the cut is closed by new growth, "compartmentalised" as they say?
Thanks Sergy! Yes basically I want the callusing to form inwards across the wound and not bulge upwards. Also, looking at the flat diagonal chop on the smaller shohin, that chop is nice because it follows the line of the new leader, but that's not possible on this year's chop. I think dipping in the depression there may look more natural in the future - like the original trunk snapped from a lightning strike and the wood inside has gradually hollowed over years. Maybe! We'll see how it looks in a few years...
Is it possible to tidy up the chop in spring as well or should i wait for the next winter to do that?
You can do it in summer. Spring is delicate because you have all the sap rising up and pushing out new buds. In summer, wounds heal quickly and tou don't have to use wound sealant. Disadvantage is that you have lots of leaves in the way, so I usually wait for winter. HTH
@@BlueSkyBonsai okay I see, thank you for the quick response👌🏽
@@elvinush9528 🌳👍🏻
Hello. Why are you making a recess on the cut? does it heal better?
Hi, it's because when the bark at the edges starts to callus, that can make a big bulge each side of the chop.. we want that callousing to grow across the dead wood, rather than bulging outwards. By carving the concave recess, we give space for that callus wood to
grow into.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you
I wish...i can get more friends..🤘😎
I'm sure you can! 🌳👍🏻
Thank you..
👍👌
Have you ever tried this with a Wisteria?
No, never tried. It's a flowering species I would love to have - you don't see wisteria bonsai much here in Spain. 7 or 8 years ago I made myself a lilac bonsai and it's just flowering this spring for the first time since I potted it. Perhaps that's my cue to go and seek out a wisteria that flowers much more prolifically than lilac.
Parece que no corta bien la sierra, pero sospecho que no es culpa de la herramienta por lo que veo en el vídeo. Hay que hacer la fuerza de corte en el movimiento de retroceso, no en el de avance. En el movimiento de avance la sierra no corta bien, por mucha fuerza que se haga. Los dientes de esa sierra están diseñados para cortar en el retorno, así se evita que una hoja tan estrecha de la sierra se doble accidentalmente y quede inutilizada. ¡Un saludo!
¡Muchas gracias! Sí, esta sierra corta otros árboles sin problema, ramas y troncos, pero los fajigos han sido muy duros. Además el árbol se movía mucho en la maceta, a pesar de la presión de mi otra mano. Me preocupaba el movimiento en las raices. Por eso también utilicé la sierra de disco de bosch. La verdad es que tenía que haber esperado otro año antes de hacer este corte, ya que transplanté el arbol en primavera y las raices no habrán crecido lo suficiente todavía para sujetarlo firme el la maceta.
Agradezco tus comentarios. Un saludo! 🌳👍
@@BlueSkyBonsai / Muchas gracias por la respuesta y el vídeo. ¡Salud!
Ok yeah 👏👏👍 ok
Thanks! 😊
I would have thought water will collect in the dish you have created with the dremel and cause rot.
The dish shape is angled slightly downwards so no water actually remains in it. Otherwise I agree, standing water could rot the wood.
Nice video! I just fumbled through my first bit of carving on a couple Willows. After watching you I don't think I went deep enough. I know totally different species but any thoughts? Thank you!
Thank you! I watched your willow work. Maybe you could have carved even more taper, but, it looks good for now. Take care of the health of the tree and there will always be a next year to refine any of this year's work! Those roots looked like it might need repotting in Springtime when the buds start to swell. If you don't this spring then it will probably be okay, but definitely you'll need to in spring 2022. HTH.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you for your thoughts! I really enjoy the root work so I’ll definitely be repotting this spring.
@@bonedrybonsai4109 good decision! 🌳👍🏻
What is the purpose of carving the crater?
When the bark at the side creates callus tissue, you want it to grow in across the cut wound. If you leave the cut a flat plane, the callus will bulge outwards as it grows.
Thank you!
All your presentations are very attractive, informative and I enjoy them. But one thing I want to request you, although it was mentioned earlier by some other people, sudden high volume of the back ground music distract the attention. So it would be better if you can keep it low and make your speech high. Thank you for all your endeavors. I try to watch all your presentations and learned many things. Keep going.❤️
Thanks Dr.Khan for your kind words and helpful suggestion. Maybe I went too loud with the music again.
May I ask you a question: Would you prefer to watch the videos without any background music at all? (I would still keep the music at the introductions and end sections).
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you for quick response. Yes, you said what is in my mind. Introduction and end section can have music and in between no music or music at a very low volume, because I want to listen all your words with equal attention. Your explanations on different technique and their out come is very important.Thank you again and keep posting new video.
@@dr.atiquzzamankhan2724 thanks again!
@@dr.atiquzzamankhan2724 Hi! I have created a non-music version of this video, and a few others, to see if this works. Are you interested in seeing the same video but without music? As I mentioned before, it only has the music at the introduction and in the snow fun scenes. Not during my talking. If you're interested, please consider watching it on my Patreon channel here: www.patreon.com/blueskybonsai - Because it's Patreon it would cost money to view the videos - as little as only $1 US Dollar. But I'm *not* doing this to make money, in fact I will donate the earnings to three charities (Cancer research, Alzheimers and Save the Children). I hope you decide to subscribe there. If you do, I will continue to post ALL my videos there with no background music while I'm talking. That's a promise.
Something I find odd with Bonsai art is 'ugly' visible roots. In the pursuit of a natural looking tree you see so many that have high roots in nature but in bonsai we see it as unnatural.
In the bonsai world unfortunately there is quite a bit of snobbery and some people pay more attention than others to the "rules" that make bonsai more valuable or show-perfect. If we instead take the naturalistic tree view, that is, just try to gradually make your bonsai look like a tree in nature, we find that after several years the tree starts to look really beautiful and for example those unruly roots could be considered a naturalistic feature. It should be in keeping with the rest of the tree though otherwise its natural appearance is betrayed.
Biden reference caught me off guard
Haha, not many folks noticed that! ;)
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank u for confirming, I thought after posting that I misread it ! Great channel, subbed to you 3 days ago as I am on my first tree.
@@jasonmoloney5796 thanks for your kind words and for subbing! 🍻👍🏻
Translate to espanish please. Thanks
Hola! El título es: Desarollar movimiento en el tronco de tu bonsái. Si ves los vídeos en un PC, tienes la opción de automáticamente traducir los CC subtítulos en español. Desafortunadamente el app de TH-cam en el móvil no da esa opción, solo tienes la opción de CC subtítulos en inglés.
Gracias por tu sugerencia! 😊
Muchas Gracias
de nada 😊
Unfortunately, we didn't get to "choose" our new "leader"...
Where are you based?
@@BlueSkyBonsai SE United States
@@illicit_fpv8208 cool👍🏻 well at least we all have horticultural pursuits to keep the mind off politics!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Sorry for the political pontification.
@@illicit_fpv8208 no worries at all. It's far worse on the tv!! 🤣
Love your videos man! I’m in central Florida and I am gathering equipment I need to do videos similar to this. Is there any way you could email me I had a couple questions on what you used to cut your clips and such. I downloaded Videoleap because I have an ipad and iPhone that I’ll be doing video with for now until I get a camera. Im picking up a usb mic as wel. You do good work.
Thank you! I use Magix Movie edit pro on a PC. I have a wide screen which helps editing / splicing / merging multiple video tracks. Editing takes considerably longer than filming. HTH