The Antihalation Backing coats the film base opposite the emulsion side. The purpose is to prevent light from passing through the emulsion and film base, striking the camera pressure plate and bouncing back. The antihalation backing is chemically inert and has no impact on development. The object of the development exercise, however, is to process the film with the minimum amount of "wet" time; a wet emulsion is a tender thing indeed. Unless specified by the film manufacturer, a pre-wash just extends wet time and is not necessary or a good idea.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The emulsion itself can be damaged since it is soft from being wet for a long while. The gel can stretch or move and if left long enough just drop off the base.
Jesus, just realised you only have 10.5 k subs...there’s no justice in this world your content is brilliant..and you don’t have a silly catchphrase about your hair somehow being sentient and able to verbalise it’s relationship to photography....👍
The prewash turning blue/pink (T-Max) is from the anti-Halation later that helps the film not reflect any light during long exposures ect ...pre-wash is not recommended for all development types ... like two bath /maybe stand Dev (over-rates/and sub par results usually)...keep up the great channel too !
That matting board machine looks great, would like to make one, could you please do a video on just how it works, as a guide to anyone of the DIY let's have a go frame of mind.
Well done! Very inspirational. I really appreciate your approach to these educational videos, starting from the initial concept, shoot, development, printing and framing. Enjoyed every minute.
i test my fixer every time by putting a bit of the film in it and se how long it takes to clear the strip, then i double that time when fixing for real.
so great, one of my favourites of your videos. so glad you’ve stuck at this cause your quality has gotten even better ! i bet it’s really educational for people starting out, wish i had you when i started. thanks
Another great video. I like these where you take it from the capture of the image through the printing process until it is put on the wall. I agree with a comment below, that a video on proper matting would be very helpful. I do not have the kit for it, nor do I know what I really need. A short video on that would be helpful. I like the idea of shooting the cameras and will give that a go. One last idea to share, I loved your contact sheet. It might be nice to properly print and display that. It would have a bit of the modern art feel, but mixed with a very traditional medium. Nothing imparts the artistic and scientific aspects of film photography better than a contact sheet.
Great video! I actually shot some HP5 in my Canon T90 today. I used my chrome nose 35mm f2, which is quite a heavy combination! Will develop and scan tomorrow.
Hi. Do you have a video explaining how to print with black borders? Would love to see a more detail video on hot to frame, including cutting of mat board.
As others have already said the dye in the pre wash water is the anti hilation layer dissolving off the film. Like you I always pre washed my films for years but on there website Ilford don't recommend doing it. Last couple of films I developed I skipped the pre wash and it didn't make any difference to the process.
Another great video, you should look into color photography as well before it goes away (likely in the next few years.) RA-4 printing is not hard and can be done in your condensor with a lifx bulb.
A brilliant video, really enjoyed it all the way through. I only have the ruler and cutter for mounting images, but as I have no upper body strength I only tried a couple of times and gave up. Perhaps if I got some better kit I might be able to give it a try again. I’ve always washed my colour film but never bothered with black and white...until now! Beautiful images, that looked even better mounted.
HP5, Rodinal and pushing doesn’t appear to be three things you often hear recommended together. But it seems to have turned out well. How was the grain?
it is the anti halo of the film. It dissolves with water. Some films are reccomanded to be prewashed (Pancro 400 for example) because they have a ticker emulsion so in order to let the chemical to go deep it's important. I always prewash films too also when not required, but just for a minute in order to bring the tank and the film at the temperature of the chemicals.
nice framing gear buddy so dig your 120mm macro lens gets her pretty sharp that black stuff after the pre wash I think only comes with 120 film Ive seen matt day have the same thing happen to him every time I pre wash my 35mm film it always comes out clear I think its just 120 emulation thinking
I mainly use Ilford HP5 and FP4 and I pre-wash them every time (if I remember...) but I've never had the water come out that colour! I used to use Rodinal and it always changed colour when I poured it out, I switched to D76 afterwards and it's only since then I've been pre-washing, so maybe the colour in the water comes from rodinal residue in your tank?
Great video, I'm glad you have an EF because I'm a little confused about mine, it has a mirror lock-up. In what circumstances would you want to use mirror lock-up, please? Also, have you made any videos on framing and mounting prints, please?
Hi Andrew. I do have a video on mounting prints somewhere on the channel. Try this one. th-cam.com/video/uW3wl27Jg1M/w-d-xo.html Mirror lock up is often used to eliminate shake on longer tripod exposures. To stop the mirror slapping and causing vibration. Although I don't tend to use it much. I've not had any reason to as I've never seen any problems with the mirror slapping. YET
Great video and love your channel. I have learned a lot from you. I noticed you printed on 8 x 10s in this video. Question, how far would you push your prints (for example 11 x 14 +) from the 35mm negative to preserve clarity? It would be nice to see you do a video on this subject. :-)
I don't like taking 35mm past 10x8 to be honest. But you can achieve arty results enlarging a 35mm neg on large paper. A more grainy broken up looking print. Even taking a portrait, say on 50mm lens, from afar, so your subject is smaller on the negative, then enlarging in to head and shoulders on a 10x8 paper which will make your subject more grainy and broken for an arty look. I have never done this so I may do a video on this soon and see what results I get!
Thank you so much to clarifying this for me!! This would be very interesting to see your results should you do a video on this subject. :-) Thank you for replying!! Off to the darkroom. :-)
@@d3DMediaPaintStudio I should also add finer grain films like Kodak Tmax 100 which is a fine grain film will produce a better result enlarged than say Kodak Tri-x 400 which is a more grainy film.
That's really interesting. I always thought that HP5 and Rodinal pretty much don't like each other and result is quite ugly grain. I guess that in MF it is not as visible as it would be on 35mm film.
Hi there! What's your developer of choice for finest grain with HP5? I have just been pleasantly surprised by Percepetol! Have used ilfasol 3 and ID11 in the past and Percepetol beats them hands down!! Not tried any other brands yet just Ilford; )..
awesome stuff u are doing i really like your videos........did u also print that panorama in the beginning of the video ?..........is there any way to stitch a panorama in the dark room ? if possible to make a video on that (it will be one of a kind video ;) )
I just recently discovered your channel and love it. I'm looking for a good used medium format camera and very much like the results your kit produced, would you mind sharing which 120 macro you used...beside being a Mamiya of coarse?
The Antihalation Backing coats the film base opposite the emulsion side. The purpose is to prevent light from passing through the emulsion and film base, striking the camera pressure plate and bouncing back. The antihalation backing is chemically inert and has no impact on development. The object of the development exercise, however, is to process the film with the minimum amount of "wet" time; a wet emulsion is a tender thing indeed. Unless specified by the film manufacturer, a pre-wash just extends wet time and is not necessary or a good idea.
Cheers Jim. Good info!
So what's the damaging effects to the developed negative from a longer wet time?
A wet emulsion is easy to damage, and the longer it stays wet the softer it becomes
@@bigjim4231 so the silver halides get damaged probably resulting in less quality tones and sharpness
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss The emulsion itself can be damaged since it is soft from being wet for a long while. The gel can stretch or move and if left long enough just drop off the base.
what a fantastic idea! great video.
Jesus, just realised you only have 10.5 k subs...there’s no justice in this world your content is brilliant..and you don’t have a silly catchphrase about your hair somehow being sentient and able to verbalise it’s relationship to photography....👍
😂😂
Really nice video. Photos look amazing
Cheers Terry
Amazing!!
Looks great! I’m definitely going to steal this idea
Your my great inspiration!
You are really the boss! That video helped me out.
The prewash turning blue/pink (T-Max) is from the anti-Halation later that helps the film not reflect any light during long exposures ect ...pre-wash is not recommended for all development types ... like two bath /maybe stand Dev (over-rates/and sub par results usually)...keep up the great channel too !
Great results Roger
That matting board machine looks great, would like to make one, could you please do a video on just how it works, as a guide to anyone of the DIY let's have a go frame of mind.
Beautiful images and framing.
Is it just me or is the film advance lever on the pentax spotmatic a beautiful shape?
Really nice video. Those prints look amazing. Hard to choose just three. Keep it up 😀
BEAUTIFUL... GREAT JOB! I LOVE shooting & developing 35mm and 120 B&W film. But I scan 'em to my MBP. No room for a darkroom.
I started off in the bath. It was tight but manageable.
yah, I don't have enough experience to even use a darkroom... lol shooting, developing, and scanning works for me.
Well done! Very inspirational. I really appreciate your approach to these educational videos, starting from the initial concept, shoot, development, printing and framing. Enjoyed every minute.
Thanks Andrew! Kind words.
You are well equipped, knowledgeable and talented! Thanks for this very interesting video showing the backstage of the process 👌
Agathe DAVAIN Thanks Agathe!
Enjoyed the process
i test my fixer every time by putting a bit of the film in it and se how long it takes to clear the strip, then i double that time when fixing for real.
Beautiful prints my goodness 😍
Thanks Jeremy. They worked out well.
so great, one of my favourites of your videos. so glad you’ve stuck at this cause your quality has gotten even better ! i bet it’s really educational for people starting out, wish i had you when i started. thanks
Thanks Beck. Encouraging words. :)
Another great video. I like these where you take it from the capture of the image through the printing process until it is put on the wall. I agree with a comment below, that a video on proper matting would be very helpful. I do not have the kit for it, nor do I know what I really need. A short video on that would be helpful. I like the idea of shooting the cameras and will give that a go. One last idea to share, I loved your contact sheet. It might be nice to properly print and display that. It would have a bit of the modern art feel, but mixed with a very traditional medium. Nothing imparts the artistic and scientific aspects of film photography better than a contact sheet.
Thanks Patrick. Okay, I'll rattle something up for those interested matting.
This might be one of the best videos I've seen... Keep it up!!! :)
I did once brok my thermometer cuz I used to mix with it! Great vid thanks!
Thanks for watching! Mercury everywhere! Ouch. Not happened to me.... yet
Brilliant and productive video :-) Cheers chap :-)
Thanks Iain
The blue colour of the pre-wash is, I think, the anti-halation layer coming off
Thanks for great content
Yes I believe it is
incredible channel
Great video! I actually shot some HP5 in my Canon T90 today. I used my chrome nose 35mm f2, which is quite a heavy combination! Will develop and scan tomorrow.
What was you shooting Ian?
Wow! Amazing!!!!🔥 I have never done darkroom printing and this makes me excited!
Hi. Do you have a video explaining how to print with black borders? Would love to see a more detail video on hot to frame, including cutting of mat board.
I do, scroll throughy vids :)
Nice work! I have a enlarged as well but never tried to use it. Maybe it is time to start.
You should. It's great
As others have already said the dye in the pre wash water is the anti hilation layer dissolving off the film. Like you I always pre washed my films for years but on there website Ilford don't recommend doing it. Last couple of films I developed I skipped the pre wash and it didn't make any difference to the process.
Thanks Clive!
Another great video, you should look into color photography as well before it goes away (likely in the next few years.) RA-4 printing is not hard and can be done in your condensor with a lifx bulb.
flam3srock can you elaborate on that, as I have a lifx bulb already; what is your RA-4 workflow?
A brilliant video, really enjoyed it all the way through. I only have the ruler and cutter for mounting images, but as I have no upper body strength I only tried a couple of times and gave up. Perhaps if I got some better kit I might be able to give it a try again. I’ve always washed my colour film but never bothered with black and white...until now! Beautiful images, that looked even better mounted.
Thanks Mark! I got it years ago second hand.y back starts to ache after a while cutting mounts!
I think it's the anti-halation mask being washed off during the pre wash procedure. As always, great video!
Thanks Borys!
cool
HP5, Rodinal and pushing doesn’t appear to be three things you often hear recommended together. But it seems to have turned out well. How was the grain?
Clean prints. They are only 10x8 from a 645 neg. Maybe a different story if it was 35mm.
THIS WAS GREAT AM GONNA HAVE TO DO IT LOL
Still on my wall!
Thank you for the great video! I don’t remember if you said what type of paper you used? Pictures came out very nice I think!
Long time ago scuba. Probably Kentmere or Ilford but definitely Resin
it is the anti halo of the film. It dissolves with water. Some films are reccomanded to be prewashed (Pancro 400 for example) because they have a ticker emulsion so in order to let the chemical to go deep it's important. I always prewash films too also when not required, but just for a minute in order to bring the tank and the film at the temperature of the chemicals.
Nice one Gianni!
What kind of chemicals is used for the pre-washing?
Just water at the same temp as the other chems.
loskiff water ;)
nice framing gear buddy so dig your 120mm macro lens gets her pretty sharp that black stuff after the pre wash I think only comes with 120 film Ive seen matt day have the same thing happen to him every time I pre wash my 35mm film it always comes out clear I think its just 120 emulation thinking
Yeah it's super sharp. It's not mine. It's a friend's.
lol borrow it as long as u can
I mainly use Ilford HP5 and FP4 and I pre-wash them every time (if I remember...) but I've never had the water come out that colour! I used to use Rodinal and it always changed colour when I poured it out, I switched to D76 afterwards and it's only since then I've been pre-washing, so maybe the colour in the water comes from rodinal residue in your tank?
Its definitely the film Tom. I always get that colour on 120 film but never 35mm.
Shoot Film Like a Boss that's interesting, it must be be me not washing well enough!
Great video, I'm glad you have an EF because I'm a little confused about mine, it has a mirror lock-up. In what circumstances would you want to use mirror lock-up, please? Also, have you made any videos on framing and mounting prints, please?
Hi Andrew. I do have a video on mounting prints somewhere on the channel. Try this one. th-cam.com/video/uW3wl27Jg1M/w-d-xo.html
Mirror lock up is often used to eliminate shake on longer tripod exposures. To stop the mirror slapping and causing vibration. Although I don't tend to use it much. I've not had any reason to as I've never seen any problems with the mirror slapping. YET
Cheers Rodger@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
Great video and love your channel. I have learned a lot from you. I noticed you printed on 8 x 10s in this video. Question, how far would you push your prints (for example 11 x 14 +) from the 35mm negative to preserve clarity?
It would be nice to see you do a video on this subject. :-)
I don't like taking 35mm past 10x8 to be honest. But you can achieve arty results enlarging a 35mm neg on large paper. A more grainy broken up looking print. Even taking a portrait, say on 50mm lens, from afar, so your subject is smaller on the negative, then enlarging in to head and shoulders on a 10x8 paper which will make your subject more grainy and broken for an arty look. I have never done this so I may do a video on this soon and see what results I get!
Thank you so much to clarifying this for me!! This would be very interesting to see your results should you do a video on this subject. :-) Thank you for replying!! Off to the darkroom. :-)
@@d3DMediaPaintStudio I should also add finer grain films like Kodak Tmax 100 which is a fine grain film will produce a better result enlarged than say Kodak Tri-x 400 which is a more grainy film.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Hmm, maybe I will try it out. I will share my results. Do you have a blog page?
@@d3DMediaPaintStudio Just tag me in Instagram if you use it. @shootfilmlikeaboss
Do you think that Distilled Water makes any difference in film development?
I haven't put the two (tap water) side by side so I'm not sure. I've had no problems with tap water though when I've used it.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss it will also depend on the PH (hardness) of the water. I didn't have any noticeable difference between distilled and tap water
Which macro lens are you using for your 645?
Hey Erik. It's the 120mm f4
could you tell us more about a film needing more fixer, how it is look before, and it should look after refix, in fixer? thank
If you pause the video the film looks milky. It should be clear.
Shoot Film Like a Boss could I put it back to fixer even if they are days old?
Never tried that. I've always put it back in after the wash if it wasn't fixed fully
That's really interesting. I always thought that HP5 and Rodinal pretty much don't like each other and result is quite ugly grain. I guess that in MF it is not as visible as it would be on 35mm film.
And I pushed it too. Rodinal is great. Lasts for ages. I've had hardly any grain on 35mm also. It's highly diluted.
Hi there! What's your developer of choice for finest grain with HP5? I have just been pleasantly surprised by Percepetol! Have used ilfasol 3 and ID11 in the past and Percepetol beats them hands down!! Not tried any other brands yet just Ilford; )..
I like using XTOL. I've had good results with it.
Shoot Film Like a Boss Thanks I'll give it a whirl:)
Blackwing Visuals I've a video on mixing it. it's a power form.
Shoot Film Like a Boss thank you I'll watch it.
Hc-110 produces nice grain
awesome stuff u are doing i really like your videos........did u also print that panorama in the beginning of the video ?..........is there any way to stitch a panorama in the dark room ? if possible to make a video on that (it will be one of a kind video ;) )
It's a digital print Shady..
aah ok cool :D
leally nice but why havent you made the prints a bit larger?
I originally replied thinking a different video... What size do you think I should have gone? These were 10x8.
I just think compared to the big picture frame they're just too small... but taste is different ;-)
I've seen smaller prints in much bigger frames! All down to choice and home style.
I just recently discovered your channel and love it. I'm looking for a good used medium format camera and very much like the results your kit produced, would you mind sharing which 120 macro you used...beside being a Mamiya of coarse?
How do you recognize that the fixer is exhausted?
Usually you'll notice brownish yellow staining in areas of the print.
thanks, i'm learning a lot from your videos, i started to work in my darkroom 2 weeks ago, I've being doing something almost every day, its amazing
Careful!... It can be addictive! :)
Hi how do I get hold of the camera pictures 20x16 from yourself please
I don't sell that big Malik
what do you prewash the film with? Water?
yes
Did you take a photo of the camera that you used in that shoot?
Seriously? Lol
Wat if I face camo shoot b,w n then go negative....how would the eyes look?,thank!,gonna shoot that.
Sorry mate, I'm not sure I understand your question.
where can i buy the frame paper it's one side is black the other is white?
张俊伟 yes. It's just regular black mat board.
i want to buy this,do you tell me how to buy?
张俊伟 Any framing shop or Art shop or online. Look for Picture Mount Board. Usually 3mm thick.