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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- DIY Brake Fluid flush on my 2016 340i
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Kern is the CEO of f series
bro, im already saving up for whatever Kevin gets into when he decides to move on from our B58 platform! ;p
Something that I forgot to mention is that you should suck out the old fluid from the brake fluid reservoir before adding your new brake fluid. That will make the flush process go a lot easier. You can use a new turkey baster or in my case I just used the vacuum from the brake bleeder.
Dam bro I never thought about using the vacuum from the bleeder.. I couldn’t find the baster I always use and the process took foreeeeeeever
Excellent video. I'd done some research myself previously and found that air gets drawn in past the threads on the bleed screw when using a vacuum system to replace the fluid. Could really confuse someone who wasn't aware. I'm in the UK, so I guess everything will be opposite sides to you guys in the US, too. Overall, it's a really helpful video. Thanks 👍
ATE is awesome, just wish they made the blue still. Also, a power bleeder is cheap and SOOOO nice for doing fluid changes. Much better than what you were using in the vid (I have tried all methods)
I've had this one for years and if it ain't broke, I don't fix it 😅
The brake line for the RR is longer than the LR, but not by much, because they both connect directly to the ABS / DSC unit. Also, type 200 is great brake fluid, but BMW recommends low viscocity brake fluid, which type 200 is not. There are some LV fluids such as ATE super dot 5.1 which has almost as high boiling points as type 200.
Nice, just flushed my brake fluid on my 340i yesterday😂
perfect timing
Hey Kevin, long time viewer.
I bought brake disc size hop up kits from you. Work great, but had a few issues on the way. The short version is you really need to recode the DME for the bigger brakes or it causes lots of problems.
Wondered if you could do a video about this?
I can go into detail of the issues if you want.
Didn't run his kit but I did retrofit the m performance brakes on and had to do the same thing and code them in with defined coding.
I don’t use my brakes hard enough to need the upgrade but pls entertain my curiosity - why does it need recoding?
Yes I don't understand the coding thing either. I haven't coded anything on my brakes and i'm running the F80 setup up front. I can understand for abs or traction control, but I haven't had any issues there either.
hi , looking for upgrade of my brembo M sports blue ( 4 piston front 2 rear ) because it's not really good
I am going to need to replace the rear ones AND the rotors , what is the next level ? BMW sait they do not have a update for my car ( only Ms )
I run 19 inch winter and 21 summer ( so limited to 19 clearance )
upgrade your brake pads. that will be the best bang for buck in performance.
Sorry so how often should you change the Brake fluid with the ATE 200? Because you mentioned it's abit more hydroscopic?
Most people recommend every 2 years but you can buy the tester to check it's water content. It's pretty cheap.
@@kern417 awesome thanks!
Hey man so how much fluid do you need to flush out the system? One can of that fluid or 2?
When I was changing my brake lines to steel brake lines I lost all brake fluid. It is taking a long time to refill.
Just did this today. Thank you for the video. I stuck with the SL6 as I don’t track. I see why you edited out using the Harbor Freight bleeder tool…it sucks. Did not work at all despite the 4 star reviews on line. I wish that you would have warned us about that in the video. Great videos though and appreciate your time sharing with us.
Theres 2 bleeder valves on the front, do you bleed both?
Yes 👍🏼
Unrelated but need your advice. Look at the below and let me know what you think
Guys - I was hooning around today and heating things up so I could park the car and check for leaky injectors. Monitoring HPFP target versus actual. Is this big of a delta normal? Running a recently intsalled TUPump on a GEN1 B58.
Max target pressure = 2883 psig
Max actual pressure = 3066 psig
Need to know if I should be concerned because that looks like a big delta to me.
normal
@@kern417 Thanbk you very much sir.
In the BMW ISTA software it’s actually recommended that you bleed the system from the rear left, front left, front right, & rear right.
really weird because the other manuals and every other DIY indicates otherwise. I'm still going with what I know works.
You are correct, but that's in the procedure for bleeding the DSC. In the procedure for bleeding the brakes, the order is RR, LR, RF, LF. If there is a reason for the discrepancy, BMW didn't provide it.
I wish my m850i had a front jacking point 😢
technically i jack from the subframe. so not a "real" jacking point, but it's safe.
Nice video how many liters you used?
1L
any update if your brake pedal squeaking with this fluid? saw it on the forums but mostly m cars. will be doing brakes soon and thats what i ordered not sure if i should put it in now.
Never noticed it. Only squealing i get is on track due to my brake pads, but on stock pads it's quiet.
These vacuum/pressure bleeders are simply not needed, you can just crack open the bleeder and it'll bleed itself but slowly or just pump the pedal 10 times and then close the bleeder, fill the reservoir and go to the next caliper.
The whole point is to do this with one person. This is way faster than a pedal pump. And I'm flushing the system to change fluid, not just bleeding air.
@@kern417 that is with one person, you don't need to sit by the bleeder at all. Just open it and pump it 20 times to flush it if you want, then close the valve. Just did this on my car over the weekend.
@@kern417poor man’s brake flush: clear tubing onto bleeder screw with other end into a semi-cleaned soft drink bottle. Just pump the brakes and keep the reservoir full
Works flawlessly tbh I’ve done it numerous times on numerous makes and models (I use the exact tool u have now coincidentally tho lol)
@@AMS611 oh yeah i was thinking of a gravity bleed. I've done it that way before too but this is faster. Literally just pull vacuum for 30-60s and go to the next wheel. No need to check the reservoir or get in and out of the car.
You might end up with a squeaky brake pedal from that fluid. It’s documented online. Happened to me. Should ideally use the SL6 or any other LV fluid. Nice video.
Works perfectly for me for the past 10 years 👌🏾
same thing happened to me
guess i'll have to keep an eye on it. this was a month ago, went to a track day, and now back home daily driving with no issues. SL6 has a lower boiling point so I prefer TYP200 to be safe.
@@kern417 I noticd it more in the cold weather for sure, when i first did the fluid chang eit was in the dead of winter. Recently, switched back to BMW fluid, squeak is completely gone now.