A trick for the bearing: Put the bearing (not the seal) in the freezer one night before you change it. Clean the washing machine space very well, take out the bearing from the freezer and put it right away in with ease! Freezeing will shrink a little the bearing for easier installation - doing like that on cars for ages!
This is a great video. Many thanks for taking the time to make it. I’ve just done my Hotpoint WML520 sealed drum. Here are some additional things people may want to consider. 1. Do drill the drum weld first before cutting open. I used a 3mm drill and made holes approx every 75mm (3”) I used this hole size to maximise the sealing width for the adhesive (Because the weld width is very narrow - approx 8 to 10mm.) 2. I decided to use self tapping screws instead of bolts to clamp and hold the drum halves together and I ‘pre-tapped’ each hole with a screw before cutting the drum apart to make assembly easier and quicker. Self tappers are cheap and easy and clamped the halves really well after gluing. (But don’t over tighten) 3.Do use a reciprocating saw. (An air saw may be better though.) Be careful not to damage the steel drum inside. Don’t bother using a multi tool, the blade gets too hot and melts the plastic. (As I discovered!) 4. Use the edge of a Stanley knife or similar to de- burr all of the plastic around the weld surfaces. ( the small burrs could get between the surfaces when gluing together.) 5. I got my bearings and main seal from a local engineering supplier. £15. Quality bearings too. Hotpoint didn’t stock bearings for my machine as it was a sealed drum. (But they sell the drum at around £200 😱) 6. Wash all soap sludge from the drum halves etc with a car pressure washer. (It cleans it really well and is quick.) And properly clean the drum spindle until it shines (use rotary wire brush in a drill for the steel but only wire wool or similar on the brass ferrule at the base of the spindle . The brass bit is important, it must be really clean and undamaged because the main seal runs on this. I used car brake cleaner to give the spindle a final wash before assembly and then a good squirt of silicone spray to help it go together. Turn the drum as you push it in the last bit to help the seal go onto the brass ferrule. 7. DO make sure the back of the bearing sleeve/retainer is supported on a block of wood or similar when banging in the bearings. The sleeve is only held in plastic and therefore could be broken free or seriously damaged. Put a longer bit of wood into the metal drum when knocking in the smaller back bearing too. 8. I ended up using white Evo Stik adhesive to glue the drum together. I’m sure the pu Gorilla glue is great, but the Evo has good reviews, is waterproof and has a temperature range of up to 100 degrees C. 9. When applying the glue, just be careful not to put too much on, because you won’t be able to clean or remove the ‘squidge’ inside the drum when assembled. This could potentially cause problems if the squidge breaks off later on and blocks the pump etc. Obviously you need enough glue though to create a proper seal. 10. It’s probably worth considering investing in a new door seal while the drum is out (£20) Much easier to but on the inner spring! My door seal was quite disgusting when I looked in all the nooks and crannies! 11. Give the drum glue the minimum of 24hrs curing time before using. Be patient! Anyway, mine is all done now and working a dream. A lot of effort I suppose, but it should be good for many years to come. Hope this helps!
Well done on keeping this going! Had a similar issue with a sealed drum, but gave up and bought a new one. Things should certainly be built to be repairable and not require sawing apart!
Just thought I would point out at 28:04 the top brace that goes across the top of the machine has been put on the wrong way round so it may make more noise all you need to do is flip it the other way round and it should be good. Good job at fixing it! Annoying how most washers have sealed units!
Great video, I'm in the process of doing mine, I'm finding it hard to get a replacement bearings other than that I have it took apart and the old bearings out, I'll probably have to watch this video a few more times before I get it all back together 👍
I had a duff bearing on mine the other year - hats off to you for making the video. How bad is it that for the sake of a few quid they make the machine virtually a write off for most owners when a bearing inevitably goes. I bought a new drum off ebay for mine (for £80 I think) because I didn't fancy the cutting but am going to do this to the old drum if it gets noisy again.
Thanks for the kind words John. It would make life much easier if the two sections were originally bolted together. I guess they want you to spend more and purchase another machine. It’s an incredible waste if you think how many must get scrapped through simple components that fail. All the best
By the look of the drum I had they used to bolt together but it was a cost saving some genius did in the factory - £2 over 500,000 machines saves £1m but doesn’t take into the annoyance for buyers when a cheap bearing goes. It’s great they can be cut and rejoined for now at least.
Good job mate, I've got one same with sealed drum. I'm just a bit concerned about how well the glue will hold up in time with vibration, and water leaking onto motor.
I was going to attempt to replace the bearings in our 7 year old Indesit washing machine but when i started taking it apart, i noticed the drum was stuck together and clipped similar to this one. Having replaced bearings in a washing machine in the past and knowing how much effort is involved getting the drum apart, i decided it was more economical to buy a new machine. I did also try to get a price for the drum attempt as a spare, but it's almost the price of a new machine. I hope in future manufacturers make it easier to do repairs like this as it's so unenvironmentally friendly to keep replacing them. One question i have on the sealing together of the drum halfs is are you not concerned of leaks long term? When i did a similar job, i used a silicone glue which eventually started to fail and the machine leaked under the pressure of all the water.
Hi Andrew Bearings are a part that is going to eventually fail. It’s criminal that the manufacturer designs there products to make it difficult to replace. The drum on mine was drilled and bolted as well as glued. If ever it did fail it could be unbolted and re glued I guess
In mine was the Hose pipe of the pressure switch broken and the machine flooded my kitchen. So be sure that the hose of the pressure switch is in a position where it can't be rubbed broken. And / or glide a secondary hose over it, just to be sure it can't break by shaking within the machine at a sharp metal👍
Hi Michael. If the bearings are not listed it’s probably moulded together so cut and glue required. It’s naughty and very unenviromental. Bearings are readily available at engineer supplies. Just take your old ones to match up. The glue is gorilla glue. Hope this helps you
If its a sealed drum the only way to get bearings is to measure the old ones and search online for bearing specialists, you can get high speed/quality bearings and seal for 1/2the price of "genuine". Very satisfying job and not that difficult.
Going to attempt this myself, thanks for the video, maybe good idea to check motor brushes at same time. Would instant gasket be good to use instead of glue?
Thanks for the comment Tolga. I do prefer to repair rather than scrap stuff as long as it’s economical to do so. We throw to much stuff away. 8 years doesn’t seem long enough really?
Fantastic job mate but as Am ex whitewoods engineer I would not recommend sawing a drum in half to replace the bearing reason being that on a split drum when you replace the bearing the kit is supplied with a drum seal that you fit between the drum and screw back together. Your fix will work but in time the glue will give due to washing being done at all different temperature
Thanks for your comment. As the glue I used was expanding glue it should see a few years I would have thought. Better than scrapping in my opinion. I will bear this in mind in future though and try and make some kind of gasket.
Hello, first of all thank you for your video! Because of the installation of the bearings, I wanted to know whether you absolutely have to install ZZ bearings on washing machines/washer dryers, or whether 2HRS bearings would also work. Which ones are better?
Just took the top off my kenwood to see if the tub was sealed or not. It looks like it's clipped and bolted together. Is there a possibility it could also be glued too? Don't really want to take it all apart to find it's sealed
Hello Rich, how is the repair holding up until now? I saw you used Gorilla Glue, which might be fine, but isn't recommended for polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE) plastics as said on their website. The tub is usually made out of these types of plastic.
Interesting video, you get a good feeling when you repair something yourself. Is that a Worcester oil fired boiler? If so I hope the red light doesn't mean it's on lock out 😄😄
Rich I have an indesit washing machine with a sealed drum dat I am going to attempt to replace the bearings just wondering did you have any leaks since the repair.
Hi Michael, I sold the machine as I bought a new one I thought nothing to loose repairing it. I ran it a few times before selling with no issues. Use gorilla glue and follow the glues instructions you won’t have a problem. Rich
Thanks for your kind words. The bearings were nothing out of the ordinary and were purchased from a local engineering company. Take your old one with you for them to measure up.
Hi Tony Once you have extracted the bearing take it to bearing supplier for measurement and purchase. Many of the components in household goods are used in different applications. You shouldn’t have a problem finding one. Regards Rich
hi what was the model number? this may be the same issue i am having as they do not list a bearing kit for my IWC71452UK indesit. this may be the reason if it is glued shut, naughty really as this makes the machine unrepairable. thanks do you have a link to the bearing kit and glue you used for this?
Hi, I’m trying to move the half of the plastic casing that the belts sits on and have got what’s holds the belt off but I can’t seem to be able to knock it through with a hammer releasing the drum from the plastic, I’ve resorted to butchering it with an angle grinder but it seems very labour intensive for what should be an easy job, can anyone help?
6207 and 6206 bearings; the seal would be: 40 72 10; got these from the video, with a bit of eye straining :) But just checked the bearings on mine now (Indesit IWE 6125 EU) - seal: 30-52-8.5/10.5 - bearing 1: 6205Z (52mm/25mm/15mm) - bearing 2: 6204Z (47mm/20mm/14mm); bought the first sizes, they were not good. Got the last ones from my own machine now.
From what I've heard .... As little as 2 years for Indesit / Hotpoint About 12 years for Bosch 20 years for Miele. All depending on number of wash cycles per week of course so these are very rough figures.
on ne frappe pas sur des roulements avec une planche en bois qui risque de laisser des déchets, on ne met pas la machine sur le coté mais plutôt sur l'arrière , et on sort la cuve avec le moteur et le contre poids avant celui du haut ayant été enlevé avant de coucher la machine et le joint de hublot , c'est plus facile d'enlever ces organes comme cela et les remettres avant de rentrer la cuve .
Thank You for the Video ! My drum housing is from Hoover and looks nearly the same. What kind of glue are You using ? It looks good, I like to buy the same one. Is that one from Gorilla for Poleurethan ?
Good job mate, I've got one same with sealed drum. I'm just a bit concerned about how well the glue will hold up in time with vibration, and water leaking onto motor.
A trick for the bearing: Put the bearing (not the seal) in the freezer one night before you change it. Clean the washing machine space very well, take out the bearing from the freezer and put it right away in with ease! Freezeing will shrink a little the bearing for easier installation - doing like that on cars for ages!
Thanks for that tip Pierd. I will try next time
Also one can buy freezing spray in a can. Same idea
This is a great video. Many thanks for taking the time to make it.
I’ve just done my Hotpoint WML520 sealed drum. Here are some additional things people may want to consider.
1. Do drill the drum weld first before cutting open. I used a 3mm drill and made holes approx every 75mm (3”) I used this hole size to maximise the sealing width for the adhesive (Because the weld width is very narrow - approx 8 to 10mm.)
2. I decided to use self tapping screws instead of bolts to clamp and hold the drum halves together and I ‘pre-tapped’ each hole with a screw before cutting the drum apart to make assembly easier and quicker. Self tappers are cheap and easy and clamped the halves really well after gluing. (But don’t over tighten)
3.Do use a reciprocating saw. (An air saw may be better though.) Be careful not to damage the steel drum inside. Don’t bother using a multi tool, the blade gets too hot and melts the plastic. (As I discovered!)
4. Use the edge of a Stanley knife or similar to de- burr all of the plastic around the weld surfaces. ( the small burrs could get between the surfaces when gluing together.)
5. I got my bearings and main seal from a local engineering supplier. £15. Quality bearings too. Hotpoint didn’t stock bearings for my machine as it was a sealed drum. (But they sell the drum at around £200 😱)
6. Wash all soap sludge from the drum halves etc with a car pressure washer. (It cleans it really well and is quick.)
And properly clean the drum spindle until it shines (use rotary wire brush in a drill for the steel but only wire wool or similar on the brass ferrule at the base of the spindle . The brass bit is important, it must be really clean and undamaged because the main seal runs on this. I used car brake cleaner to give the spindle a final wash before assembly and then a good squirt of silicone spray to help it go together. Turn the drum as you push it in the last bit to help the seal go onto the brass ferrule.
7. DO make sure the back of the bearing sleeve/retainer is supported on a block of wood or similar when banging in the bearings. The sleeve is only held in plastic and therefore could be broken free or seriously damaged. Put a longer bit of wood into the metal drum when knocking in the smaller back bearing too.
8. I ended up using white Evo Stik adhesive to glue the drum together. I’m sure the pu Gorilla glue is great, but the Evo has good reviews, is waterproof and has a temperature range of up to 100 degrees C.
9. When applying the glue, just be careful not to put too much on, because you won’t be able to clean or remove the ‘squidge’ inside the drum when assembled. This could potentially cause problems if the squidge breaks off later on and blocks the pump etc. Obviously you need enough glue though to create a proper seal.
10. It’s probably worth considering investing in a new door seal while the drum is out (£20) Much easier to but on the inner spring! My door seal was quite disgusting when I looked in all the nooks and crannies!
11. Give the drum glue the minimum of 24hrs curing time before using. Be patient!
Anyway, mine is all done now and working a dream. A lot of effort I suppose, but it should be good for many years to come.
Hope this helps!
Many thanks for the kind words
Your additional information is very helpful and should lead repairers to tackle this job better 👍😊
Well done on keeping this going! Had a similar issue with a sealed drum, but gave up and bought a new one. Things should certainly be built to be repairable and not require sawing apart!
Thank you for the comment
Yes indeed
We live in a throw away society am afraid
But one day there will be a time when we run out of replacements
My same experience... next time I will give it a try like him.
@@giovmari thanks for your comment
It’s certainly worth a go
Just the time involved stripping and rebuilding
Just thought I would point out at 28:04 the top brace that goes across the top of the machine has been put on the wrong way round so it may make more noise all you need to do is flip it the other way round and it should be good. Good job at fixing it! Annoying how most washers have sealed units!
Thanks for the comment Only me. The bearings and bearings cover were sourced from a bearings specialist. Enjoyed putting life back into scrap 👍
Excellent video. Thanks a lot. My new Hotpoint washing machine only lasted 4 years before it started to rumble.
Thanks for the kind words Craig. It’s always worth having a go at a repair. Just a shame the casing has to be cut on this one
Great video, I'm in the process of doing mine, I'm finding it hard to get a replacement bearings other than that I have it took apart and the old bearings out, I'll probably have to watch this video a few more times before I get it all back together 👍
Ahh thanks for the comment Paul
Am certain you will locate a bearing and get it reassembled
Good luck 👍👍
Thanks for the comment. I realised this afterwards and reversed this brace. Indeed it did cause excess noise that way round.
I had a duff bearing on mine the other year - hats off to you for making the video. How bad is it that for the sake of a few quid they make the machine virtually a write off for most owners when a bearing inevitably goes. I bought a new drum off ebay for mine (for £80 I think) because I didn't fancy the cutting but am going to do this to the old drum if it gets noisy again.
Thanks for the kind words John. It would make life much easier if the two sections were originally bolted together.
I guess they want you to spend more and purchase another machine.
It’s an incredible waste if you think how many must get scrapped through simple components that fail.
All the best
By the look of the drum I had they used to bolt together but it was a cost saving some genius did in the factory - £2 over 500,000 machines saves £1m but doesn’t take into the annoyance for buyers when a cheap bearing goes. It’s great they can be cut and rejoined for now at least.
@@johndutton9739 indeed John. Get the hack saw out.
Good luck
Good job mate, I've got one same with sealed drum. I'm just a bit concerned about how well the glue will hold up in time with vibration, and water leaking onto motor.
Absolutely Mint Rich,
superb repair.
Thanks for that mate. It was your instructions that inspired me mate 😊
Many thanks 👍
@@RichDavey Flattered, you done a sterling job.
I was going to attempt to replace the bearings in our 7 year old Indesit washing machine but when i started taking it apart, i noticed the drum was stuck together and clipped similar to this one. Having replaced bearings in a washing machine in the past and knowing how much effort is involved getting the drum apart, i decided it was more economical to buy a new machine. I did also try to get a price for the drum attempt as a spare, but it's almost the price of a new machine. I hope in future manufacturers make it easier to do repairs like this as it's so unenvironmentally friendly to keep replacing them. One question i have on the sealing together of the drum halfs is are you not concerned of leaks long term? When i did a similar job, i used a silicone glue which eventually started to fail and the machine leaked under the pressure of all the water.
Hi Andrew
Bearings are a part that is going to eventually fail.
It’s criminal that the manufacturer designs there products to make it difficult to replace.
The drum on mine was drilled and bolted as well as glued.
If ever it did fail it could be unbolted and re glued I guess
@@RichDavey it's a good effort and credit to you for doing it. I just didn't have the time.
@@funkster2050 Many thanks Andrew. Not exactly perfect but it did the job.
In mine was the Hose pipe of the pressure switch broken and the machine flooded my kitchen. So be sure that the hose of the pressure switch is in a position where it can't be rubbed broken. And / or glide a secondary hose over it, just to be sure it can't break by shaking within the machine at a sharp metal👍
Ok Sys
Thanks
Hi Michael. If the bearings are not listed it’s probably moulded together so cut and glue required. It’s naughty and very unenviromental.
Bearings are readily available at engineer supplies. Just take your old ones to match up.
The glue is gorilla glue.
Hope this helps you
Hi Rich, I have the same Indesit. It makes a grinding noise when starts spinning. Any idea What can cause it,please? Thanks
@@cipita97 Hi Vioneza, it sounds like the bearings to me. Thanks for watching
If its a sealed drum the only way to get bearings is to measure the old ones and search online for bearing specialists, you can get high speed/quality bearings and seal for 1/2the price of "genuine". Very satisfying job and not that difficult.
Going to attempt this myself, thanks for the video, maybe good idea to check motor brushes at same time.
Would instant gasket be good to use instead of glue?
Yes maybe not a bad idea while you have the motor out Kevin.
Good luck am sure you will sort it 👍
Thanks for the comment Tolga. I do prefer to repair rather than scrap stuff as long as it’s economical to do so. We throw to much stuff away. 8 years doesn’t seem long enough really?
InstaBlaster
Its getting worse pal, 5 years is the average now, criminal that
@@vicvinegarDebo that would not be too bad if they were made easier to repair rather than replace
Fantastic job mate but as Am ex whitewoods engineer I would not recommend sawing a drum in half to replace the bearing reason being that on a split drum when you replace the bearing the kit is supplied with a drum seal that you fit between the drum and screw back together. Your fix will work but in time the glue will give due to washing being done at all different temperature
Thanks for your comment. As the glue I used was expanding glue it should see a few years I would have thought. Better than scrapping in my opinion. I will bear this in mind in future though and try and make some kind of gasket.
Hello, first of all thank you for your video! Because of the installation of the bearings, I wanted to know whether you absolutely have to install ZZ bearings on washing machines/washer dryers, or whether 2HRS bearings would also work. Which ones are better?
Hi
I just found a bearing that fitted
Obviously the better quality will last longer
Just took the top off my kenwood to see if the tub was sealed or not. It looks like it's clipped and bolted together. Is there a possibility it could also be glued too? Don't really want to take it all apart to find it's sealed
I wouldn’t have thought it would be glued if it’s bolted. Probably have a gasket it in it.
Couple of questions. Exactly what glue did you use? Is the machine still running? Any leaks?
Gorilla glue was used. The case was bolted together and glued so the seal will be permanent.
what bearings did your bought size or model i need,please let me know
2 years ago but Im wondering if you can remember what the torx size was for the drum pulley? T35? T40?
I cannot remember what size the Torx was. Sets of Torx bits are quite cheap and a handy addition to anyone’s tools.
Hello Rich, how is the repair holding up until now? I saw you used Gorilla Glue, which might be fine, but isn't recommended for polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE) plastics as said on their website. The tub is usually made out of these types of plastic.
Hi Azagro
I no longer have the machine. It stuck well and was water tight when it left me.
Hi I have the same problem with washing machine can you tell me which glue you used for sealing it
Hi Jagjeet, the glue I used was gorilla glue. Hope this helps
Well done!
Which sealant or adhesive do you use?Thanks.
Hi
I used Gorilla glue
Thanks for watching
Interesting video, you get a good feeling when you repair something yourself.
Is that a Worcester oil fired boiler? If so I hope the red light doesn't mean it's on lock out 😄😄
Haha thanks for the comment Martindyna. Yes it’s a Worcester boiler but that red light is the running light. The one next to it is for lockout lol
Hi Rich. I'm doing the same to mine, just cracked it open. Queres did you got the rubber seal for the inside?
Hi Nuno
All I replaced was the bearings
@@RichDavey 18:56 you show the new bearings and the seal. That's what I was asking about
@@nunogato the bearing seal comes with the bearing Nuno 👍
Rich I have an indesit washing machine with a sealed drum dat I am going to attempt to replace the bearings just wondering did you have any leaks since the repair.
Hi Michael, I sold the machine as I bought a new one I thought nothing to loose repairing it.
I ran it a few times before selling with no issues. Use gorilla glue and follow the glues instructions you won’t have a problem.
Rich
I love your work, I’m replacing mine now, you are of good help, I would love to know the glue you used to join the plastic.
Hi Felix
Thanks for the kind words. I used Gorrilla glue. Not there super glue. You won’t have any problem 👍
@@RichDavey thanks you
Hi could you tell me what bearings you used and where did you purchase them. Great video helped me out alot.
Thanks for your kind words.
The bearings were nothing out of the ordinary and were purchased from a local engineering company. Take your old one with you for them to measure up.
Hi there how did you Know what size bearings to buy before you took It apart regards tony
Hi Tony
Once you have extracted the bearing take it to bearing supplier for measurement and purchase. Many of the components in household goods are used in different applications. You shouldn’t have a problem finding one.
Regards Rich
@@RichDavey many thanks Rich.👍
@@tonybean1000 good luck
You can do it 👍😊
hi
what was the model number? this may be the same issue i am having as they do not list a bearing kit for my IWC71452UK indesit. this may be the reason if it is glued shut, naughty really as this makes the machine unrepairable. thanks do you have a link to the bearing kit and glue you used for this?
Hi it's good job please what kind of glue or silicone you did for reassambly .and you did glue and not silicone
Hi Ali, thanks for your comment. Gorilla glue as it expands well 👍
@@RichDavey thank you ..👍👍
Hi, I’m trying to move the half of the plastic casing that the belts sits on and have got what’s holds the belt off but I can’t seem to be able to knock it through with a hammer releasing the drum from the plastic, I’ve resorted to butchering it with an angle grinder but it seems very labour intensive for what should be an easy job, can anyone help?
Not sure what you are cutting. Just the casing required cutting on mine. Everything else was nut and bolt stuff
Last time I did a drum it was bolted together from the manufacturers.
That would make it an easier job Andy
The model is IWE 91480
Hi Vaidas
Just take your old bearing to a bearing suppler for them to measure and supply you a new set
Thanks for watching
Is it still working?
After making sure all was good I sold it. Not heard anything so presumably she’s still all good 👍
What size were the bearings 30 or 35mm?
Hi Derek, I cannot remember the size of the bearings sorry
It’s 35mm shaft Derek. So the larger bearing (the inner) is 35mm and the smaller (outer) is 30mm
Thanks for that Lomas
6207 and 6206 bearings; the seal would be: 40 72 10; got these from the video, with a bit of eye straining :) But just checked the bearings on mine now (Indesit IWE 6125 EU) - seal: 30-52-8.5/10.5 - bearing 1: 6205Z (52mm/25mm/15mm) - bearing 2: 6204Z (47mm/20mm/14mm); bought the first sizes, they were not good. Got the last ones from my own machine now.
You say that 8 years is not old for a washing machine, well 8 years is the maximum life of a washing machine nowadays. So it lasted pretty long
From what I've heard ....
As little as 2 years for Indesit / Hotpoint
About 12 years for Bosch
20 years for Miele.
All depending on number of wash cycles per week of course so these are very rough figures.
@@Martindyna my Hoover 10 years - from Italy not from Chinese factory
Wat is the size of the smaller bearing in mm 🤔?
Hi Hallo, I just took the bearings to an dealer nearby and they matched them up as they do need to be accurately matched
@@RichDavey yeah im in lockdown need to order one online so guess I'll have to guess but thanks for the reply
@@hallogeen4580 if you have accurate measurement instruments you be fine.
the bearing number is written on the bearing race
on ne frappe pas sur des roulements avec une planche en bois qui risque de laisser des déchets, on ne met pas la machine sur le coté mais plutôt sur l'arrière , et on sort la cuve avec le moteur et le contre poids avant celui du haut ayant été enlevé avant de coucher la machine et le joint de hublot , c'est plus facile d'enlever ces organes comme cela et les remettres avant de rentrer la cuve .
I’d look under the top, after a couple of spin cycles, to see if the glue job held.
Or just buy a new drum for peace of mind
Still working?
It was surplus to requirements as I had to buy another when that one failed so I sold it.
I don’t see why it would not be still going 👍
Thank You for the Video ! My drum housing is from Hoover and looks nearly the same. What kind of glue are You using ? It looks good, I like to buy the same one. Is that one from Gorilla for Poleurethan ?
Hi
Thanks for commenting. I used gorilla glue on this. Don’t forget to drill and screw it together.
Good luck 👍
@@RichDavey Thank You !
Good job mate, I've got one same with sealed drum. I'm just a bit concerned about how well the glue will hold up in time with vibration, and water leaking onto motor.
Thanks Craig
It’s at your risk obviously but that’s why I choose to bolt it as well as the glue.
Good luck