roll on episode 3 cant wait ,the green looks great martin ,glad to see your back in the swing of things ,keep warm bud,all the best ................................dougie
That was amazing how easy that Chuck broke loose on your drill press I've never seen a Chuck break loose that easy once it's been rusted, great job! enjoy your videos!
I've seen a lot of guys doing restorations reuse and repack bearings. I hate to see it when bearings are so cheap and readily available. Nice job putting in new ones. Small expense to give you another 30 or 40 years of service, instead of trying to reuse worn and tired old ones! Kudos!
looks like you are up and going again martin, can't wait for part 3. I bet you can't wait for lawn mower repair when this cold weather goes away, going to try to get my old mower going soon has not been run in 2 years, but being a courier as my job not my main priority unfortunately. but great to see you getting better, cheers!
I wish i was lucky enough to have come across one of these pillar drills! you just can't purchase one of the same quality now days without spending an arm and a leg, brilliant job so far martin you're a talent!
I was thinking how you could use a motorized sander, but after seeing how fast you sand, you don't need one. lol. Great to see you back on here doing what you seem to love doing. I like the finish on the drill press as well. Thumbs Up!
there is nothing more satisfying than bring old things back to use and good quality tools like this you can build a really good tool set up if you search broken un wanted tools and you also can have fun doing first class martin also take it easy m8
Great video Martin, good to see you out and about. Great job so far, motor is looking good and i am sure you have the knowledge to sort the safety out for the electrics. Look forward to part 3 ! Cheers, Jeff.
I thought it was the opposite, because the outer race is larger and bears the weight distribution better?? Are you a mechanic? I'd like to learn something.
@@stevenhoman2253 Whether you are pressing a bearing onto a shaft or into a housing you should make sure you aren’t transferring the force through the ball bearings themselves so pressing onto a shaft should always be done by applying force to the inner race; pressing into a housing should be done by applying force to the outer race……but as Martin said, if only a little force is needed to press the bearing onto the shaft it is unlikely to cause much damage pressing on the outer race…..but would still be better if the inner race was used.
Nice job! As I menioned in a comment on the first video, I liked the blue color better than the green. However, I like the green you've chosen rather better than either "original" color! Can't wait to see how this turns out. :)
Another stunning transformation in progress, hope you are on the mend and don't overdo it. Would you consider a video showing why you use certain restoration techniques over others? For example you use a wire brush on one part to remove rust, and a random orbital on another, similarly with paint removal, sometimes it's paint stripper, sometimes grit blast, and sometimes wire brush. It would be interesting to know if it's just personal preference, or if there's a specific reason? Keep up the good work, but only at your pace, get well soon.
A vice with a decent reach (capacity) makes a good press for seating bearings, seals & sleeves... 👍 In regards that Crompton AC drive: Plug it in & try it... If it just grumbles without doing owt then kick it over with your foot then if that gets it spinning then you'll be looking at putting a start cap in there to create the phase shift... With thanks Glenn GLMelectrical Leeds UK
@@RetroHax Then take a plugtop off something else...but check it isn't a moulded plugtop first before you cut it off... Use a 5A fuse for inrush...as it's an inductive load... 👍 Whats the rating of that drive...? And here's another one for you as well: Do you think this drill press once completed would make a nice arbour press in addition to being a drill...for seating bearings etc on future projects...? I do... 😉
great video as always, couple of questions, how do you know what size bearings to get, do you use a micrometer ? also in some video's you wire brush before sand blasting, why not go straight to sand blasting ? glad to hear/see your on the mend.
I took the bearings in to a bearing supplier and they matched them. I wire brush before blasting as it saves all the old paint being deposited in the blasting cabinet soiling the blasting media.
Would you know if they need a capacitor to start them Ian as This was in bits when I got it and it didn't come with one? All the other drill presses I have looked at have a start capacitor.
Excellent re build with one small problem can you explain why when you installed the inner bearings you did not remove the inner bearing cover for now no matter how much grease you add it will never reach the inner bearings. Sealed bearing grease hardens pushes to outer edges of bearings over the years reduces lubrication greasing assures bearing lubrication especially when the bearings you took out the covers on inner side were clearly removed assuring lubrication however. Clearly not a fuss for I find more sealed bearing failures than greased ones. I love your videos keep it up.
Looking great Martin. Are you going to use it in your work shop? I do hope so. Great addition. Hurry up now being ill is no excuse 😂😂😂😂😂 all the best bud.
Wish I could find these old and used machinery to refurbish too. Just a couple of question: why did you not put primer paint on before painting with Hammerite? Also why not sand blast the base since you blasted other parts?
Great video....curious as why you didn’t remove the old bearings before using the parts washer to clean the grease off....or did you go back and re-clean?
I chucked the quill in my lathe, bored out the bottom bearing hole same OD but deeper. Installed a same OD/ID double angular contact bearing and it made a really decent drill, total TIR less than 0.002".
Grand job so far Mate. Just one small point. The chucks nice and free, is it possible to get new jaws, reason being these will be worn, drills will slip....all mine do. So I get a new drill, use old marked drills and end up the same lol. But you're doing such a good job, this really will be worth doing, or even a new chuck.
@@RetroHax You're welcome Mate. It's just something I've learned over the years.....new chuck and drills work. And like I said, yes it's built to last and you're doing a great job of restoring it.
It might be worth checking the switch properly before summarily discarding it. It is likely to be an NVR type. Wire up a plug and cable to its input and a light bulb to its output. Plug it in and switch on at the wall. Switch the switch itself on. Light should come on. Switch off at wall. Light should go off. Switch back on at wall. Light should stay off. If it does, it can be reused. The motor may not need a capacitor. It may have a separate start winding and a centrifugal switch to disengage them. Have a look for two books by Jim Cox, one called 'Electric Motors', the other 'Electric Motors in the Home Workshop'. They will tell you all you need to know. It would be good to dismantle and service the Jacobs chuck properly rather than just tarting up the outside. It is very easy. Open the jaws fully and press off the sleeve from the back. The ring that operates the jaws in in two pieces. It is nicked and purposely broken on assembly.
Great info Darryl, I'm also updating the switching by fitting an emergency stop NVR switch. I agree about the motor as it has no provision for a capacitor. I'll be checking it this week.
All the drill presses I have seen have had a start capacitor fitted but as I got this one in bits and there is no information I can find online, I'm not sure so i've got to do some more research on this one.
I sent prev comment before I had finished. I bought a pillar drill and the start capacitor had been disconnected I just reconnected it and it all works. Let me know what you find out I would love to know.
It may be it reduces the start current. If the motor starts without blowing the fuse I wouldn’t worry to much it may be just to put the phase current back to unity.
I hate those wire wheels because I had one explode and sent wires everywhere. I will only use either epoxy encapsulated or twisted wire wheels now. You can take cheaper wheels and dip them in epoxy, making sure you use slow setting epoxy so that it gets deep into the wheel. The epoxy keeps the wires from coming out.
Enjoyed that nice work.Your wedding ring is making me cringe, I've seen quite a few inside out peeled fingers including my own a mistake you only make once.
Martian would I be right in saying we could see a pillar drill with a wire wheel mounted on it soon?? 🧐 Health and safety must have been in contact about the drill in a vice scenario 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hi Martin,
get well!
The pillar drill press looks already great.
I do not want to rush you but I'm already looking forward to Part 3.
Cheers Bernd
Haha so am I Bernd lol
roll on episode 3 cant wait ,the green looks great martin ,glad to see your back in the swing of things ,keep warm bud,all the best ................................dougie
Thanks Doug, feeling a lot better, got to get this shoulder sorted next.
That was amazing how easy that Chuck broke loose on your drill press I've never seen a Chuck break loose that easy once it's been rusted, great job! enjoy your videos!
I've seen a lot of guys doing restorations reuse and repack bearings. I hate to see it when bearings are so cheap and readily available. Nice job putting in new ones. Small expense to give you another 30 or 40 years of service, instead of trying to reuse worn and tired old ones! Kudos!
YES !!! The Guv’nor is back 😁 Can’t wait for part 3 Martin .......looking great already 👍🏼
Haha, nice one.
The drill pres is looking good Martin. Looking forward to part 3. 👍
looks like you are up and going again martin, can't wait for part 3. I bet you can't wait for lawn mower repair when this cold weather goes away, going to try to get my old mower going soon has not been run in 2 years, but being a courier as my job not my main priority unfortunately. but great to see you getting better, cheers!
Excellent watching all 3 parts of this restoration of a pillar drill well done.
Awesome job Martin. I can't wait for part 3 to come out.
I’m really enjoying this series Martin, thanks for your effort
excellent work Martin,looking forward to part 3.
Looking forward for part three of the series bc it's getting better and better as you go keep them coming overall really nice video
Glad to see you're using Hammerite paint on this pieve. It lasts so much longer on equipment like this plus it gives it that industrial look.
I wish i was lucky enough to have come across one of these pillar drills! you just can't purchase one of the same quality now days without spending an arm and a leg, brilliant job so far martin you're a talent!
Yes, its well made.
Excellent work! Enjoying this so much!
I was thinking how you could use a motorized sander, but after seeing how fast you sand, you don't need one. lol. Great to see you back on here doing what you seem to love doing. I like the finish on the drill press as well. Thumbs Up!
Nice!!
Can't wait for part three!
Me too bro i can't wait
:)
Looking great buddy. Great video mate
Good to see you back.👍
there is nothing more satisfying than bring old things back to use and good quality tools like this you can build a really good tool set up if you search broken un wanted
tools and you also can have fun doing first class martin also take it easy m8
Thanks Chris.
Lot of work. At the end you are going to have a beatiful machine. Waiting for part 3. Regards..
I really enjoy your channel. BTW good choice in the colour Green! Keep up the excellent work... Newk from Kentucky USA
Looking good Martin !
Arggghhhh, I want part 3 now 🤣 great video as always mate 👍
Glad you’re getting better, take care
Great video Martin, good to see you out and about. Great job so far, motor is looking good and i am sure you have the knowledge to sort the safety out for the electrics. Look forward to part 3 !
Cheers, Jeff.
Cheers Jeff
Nice job Martin.
Nice Job Martin
When you drift or press a bearing onto a shaft you should press on the inner ring not the outer.
Yes I know but it wasn't tight so I went with it.
I thought it was the opposite, because the outer race is larger and bears the weight distribution better?? Are you a mechanic? I'd like to learn something.
@@stevenhoman2253 Whether you are pressing a bearing onto a shaft or into a housing you should make sure you aren’t transferring the force through the ball bearings themselves so pressing onto a shaft should always be done by applying force to the inner race; pressing into a housing should be done by applying force to the outer race……but as Martin said, if only a little force is needed to press the bearing onto the shaft it is unlikely to cause much damage pressing on the outer race…..but would still be better if the inner race was used.
@@LacyK yea
@TheJR1948 absolutely correct i am a fitter and machinest by trade
nice one martin looking good.
One Martin to another. To make these items functional is usually enough, you make them nigh perfect....
Great vid Martin 👍
love your music Martin..great job
happy you're back...
You can see who does the washing up in your house . Good job on the drill👍
Nice job! As I menioned in a comment on the first video, I liked the blue color better than the green. However, I like the green you've chosen rather better than either "original" color! Can't wait to see how this turns out. :)
It's looking like new cheers mate
Nice Abby Road picture on the wall.
Good restoration
Another stunning transformation in progress, hope you are on the mend and don't overdo it. Would you consider a video showing why you use certain restoration techniques over others? For example you use a wire brush on one part to remove rust, and a random orbital on another, similarly with paint removal, sometimes it's paint stripper, sometimes grit blast, and sometimes wire brush. It would be interesting to know if it's just personal preference, or if there's a specific reason?
Keep up the good work, but only at your pace, get well soon.
I might do that on my retrorestore channel
Great video: trust you are well and have a Great Christmas.
excellent job thanks 👍🇬🇧 George/Stoke.
the reason i like you very much is the banter
A vice with a decent reach (capacity) makes a good press for seating bearings, seals & sleeves... 👍
In regards that Crompton AC drive:
Plug it in & try it...
If it just grumbles without doing owt then kick it over with your foot then if that gets it spinning then you'll be looking at putting a start cap in there to create the phase shift...
With thanks
Glenn
GLMelectrical
Leeds UK
Yes I'm going to be trying that Glenn, I couldn't find a plug though lol
@@RetroHax
Then take a plugtop off something else...but check it isn't a moulded plugtop first before you cut it off...
Use a 5A fuse for inrush...as it's an inductive load... 👍
Whats the rating of that drive...?
And here's another one for you as well:
Do you think this drill press once completed would make a nice arbour press in addition to being a drill...for seating bearings etc on future projects...?
I do... 😉
Another good job
🤣you were hand sanding so fast it seemed like you were going to phase through it like the flash.😂
I actually work on the TV show The Flash and supergirl as well
Another great vid Martin. Very therapeutic. What was the music at the start. Was great.
I can't remember Nick, I just pick it as I go along the editing process from the licensed music I use.
No worries great to see you back online.
top job Martin
great video as always, couple of questions, how do you know what size bearings to get, do you use a micrometer ? also in some video's you wire brush before sand blasting, why not go straight to sand blasting ? glad to hear/see your on the mend.
I took the bearings in to a bearing supplier and they matched them. I wire brush before blasting as it saves all the old paint being deposited in the blasting cabinet soiling the blasting media.
Bearings have numbers on the side for identification
And also in some sizes whether they're a C3 or a C4 clearance...
Yeeeeaaaaa! Part 2. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
Were you using a wire wheel or sandpaper to clean up the support column?
Nice Crompton motor there m8, good solid motors :) Used to make 'em in Chelmsford I seem to remember but still going strong down in Brighton
Would you know if they need a capacitor to start them Ian as This was in bits when I got it and it didn't come with one? All the other drill presses I have looked at have a start capacitor.
Excellent re build with one small problem can you explain why when you installed the inner bearings you did not remove the inner bearing cover for now no matter how much grease you add it will never reach the inner bearings. Sealed bearing grease hardens pushes to outer edges of bearings over the years reduces lubrication greasing assures bearing lubrication especially when the bearings you took out the covers on inner side were clearly removed assuring lubrication however. Clearly not a fuss for I find more sealed bearing failures than greased ones. I love your videos keep it up.
so satisfying
Looking great Martin. Are you going to use it in your work shop? I do hope so. Great addition. Hurry up now being ill is no excuse 😂😂😂😂😂 all the best bud.
Haha, I'm keeping this one Paul.
Nice one mate. 👍👍👍👍
Love the easy-listening interlude music! :)
Wish I could find these old and used machinery to refurbish too. Just a couple of question: why did you not put primer paint on before painting with Hammerite? Also why not sand blast the base since you blasted other parts?
Hammerite doesn't need primer. The base didn't need blasting bud.
You've worked really hard on that. Gonna look fantastic. Do you use water or something else when you're in the parts washer?
Its filled with Paraffin (Kerosene)bud
Great video....curious as why you didn’t remove the old bearings before using the parts washer to clean the grease off....or did you go back and re-clean?
The parts were not that dirty just wiped clean after removing the bearings.
I chucked the quill in my lathe, bored out the bottom bearing hole same OD but deeper. Installed a same OD/ID double angular contact bearing and it made a really decent drill, total TIR less than 0.002".
Good work
Great as always. Question: do you run diesel in your degreaser, or something else?
just paraffin bud.
Grand job so far Mate. Just one small point. The chucks nice and free, is it possible to get new jaws, reason being these will be worn, drills will slip....all mine do. So I get a new drill, use old marked drills and end up the same lol. But you're doing such a good job, this really will be worth doing, or even a new chuck.
Nice tip Malc. Its a nice bit of 60's kit and built to last.
Cheers
Martin
@@RetroHax You're welcome Mate. It's just something I've learned over the years.....new chuck and drills work. And like I said, yes it's built to last and you're doing a great job of restoring it.
Yep. Think the electrics could use an upgrade. Leaps & Bounds!
It might be worth checking the switch properly before summarily discarding it. It is likely to be an NVR type. Wire up a plug and cable to its input and a light bulb to its output. Plug it in and switch on at the wall. Switch the switch itself on. Light should come on. Switch off at wall. Light should go off. Switch back on at wall. Light should stay off. If it does, it can be reused.
The motor may not need a capacitor. It may have a separate start winding and a centrifugal switch to disengage them. Have a look for two books by Jim Cox, one called 'Electric Motors', the other 'Electric Motors in the Home Workshop'. They will tell you all you need to know.
It would be good to dismantle and service the Jacobs chuck properly rather than just tarting up the outside. It is very easy. Open the jaws fully and press off the sleeve from the back. The ring that operates the jaws in in two pieces. It is nicked and purposely broken on assembly.
Great info Darryl, I'm also updating the switching by fitting an emergency stop NVR switch. I agree about the motor as it has no provision for a capacitor. I'll be checking it this week.
Come on Martin we want part 3!!!
its not filmed yet lol.
RetroHax
we want 3, we want 3, we want 3 😆
Would the base not fit in your blasting cabinet?
Yes but I didn't want all the paint in my blast media as it can clog up the gun.
@@RetroHax This is good to know. Thanks for the info.
alright good work
Hi Martin really enjoy your channel, why do you need a start capacitor?
Does it help starting in some way?
All the drill presses I have seen have had a start capacitor fitted but as I got this one in bits and there is no information I can find online, I'm not sure so i've got to do some more research on this one.
I did the same thing as you but the start capacitorh
I sent prev comment before I had finished. I bought a pillar drill and the start capacitor had been disconnected I just reconnected it and it all works. Let me know what you find out I would love to know.
It may be it reduces the start current. If the motor starts without blowing the fuse I wouldn’t worry to much it may be just to put the phase current back to unity.
I hate those wire wheels because I had one explode and sent wires everywhere. I will only use either epoxy encapsulated or twisted wire wheels now. You can take cheaper wheels and dip them in epoxy, making sure you use slow setting epoxy so that it gets deep into the wheel. The epoxy keeps the wires from coming out.
Cracking video Martin, cant wait to see it finished, is it a new addition to your tool collection or are u selling it? 👍
I'm keeping this Chris
@@RetroHax wise choice Martin!!👍
The instructions on the tin clearly state “stir thoroughly “. This ensures the pigment and hardener are mixed. Or did you stir off camera???
Its a bit boring watching paint being stirred bud. I couldn't show everything or it would get very tedious.
Great job so far. You should fit an NVR switch with an emergency stop. There's a vid' on how to wire one up on my channel.
Can you teach me that fast cleaning and painting technique. Could you tell me which country your from please. 🤣🇦🇺👍🏻
I'm from the UK
A Pom...🤣🤣... meant as an Aussie compliment. Keep em coming. Your editing and fast forwarding are well done. 🤣🇦🇺👍🏻
I was tought that you never hit the outside race of a bearing to install the inner race.
That's true but these were loose fitting so no problem.
It's really time to treat yourself to a decent bench grinder. LOL
That's part of the comedy...
Anthony Curreri he can restore an good old one if he needs one
Are you offering to buy one for him???....no?, then shut up.
Лайк, супер.
Top😊😊👍👍👍
For the Bearings next time, i think you need a DIY Hydraulic Press ;-)
¿¿ no lubrica los rodamientos ??? -- ¿¿ no pone grasa fibrosa a las bolas ???? --
too bad you forgot some rust spots. for example the mounting slots in the base plate
Enjoyed that nice work.Your wedding ring is making me cringe, I've seen quite a few inside out peeled fingers including my own a mistake you only make once.
Martian would I be right in saying we could see a pillar drill with a wire wheel mounted on it soon?? 🧐
Health and safety must have been in contact about the drill in a vice scenario 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I am my own H&S officer lol
Restore an old bench grinder
I wonder why there is no audio commentary. Here in the USA we enjoy the British accents.
Please cover your vise jaws with something, aluminum, copper, or brass if you're using it to clamp machine surfaces. I was cringing.
Is that British “ racing “ green? HA
👍
Your skills deserve drill press or/and table sander and/or a grinder. I know ... It's expensive ...
3\3???????
coconut oil
bicarbonate of soda
apple cider vinegar
iF YOU ARE FITTING A BEARING ONTO A SHAFT, YOU SHOULD HAMMER IT ON VIA THE INNER RACE NOT THE OUTER AS YOU HAVE DONE, DOING SO WILL DAMAGE THE RACE.
John Lawton Yes I know that but they were easy fitting so I went with it
You should wear gloves when handling rusty old metal
WOW I got 7 l likes on my comment!!!
Abbey road