I have this problem again, column lock, after paying 1700 2 years ago, 600000 miles. I attempted start the car, after a passenger's leg laid on the lock button, then this problem appeared... I dont have that kind of money and I thought if the sensor was reset, which I dont know how, it would take care. I can start the car, but I have to make 3 to 4 tries. I just hate that. Hate for folks to even work on it for fear that Im getting ripped off ... thanks again for the resolve. I will disconnect with the battery...or get someone to watch your video 🙂 thumbs up!!!
Did you just disconnect the negative cable and reconnect it? Or did you have to do anything with the wheel or anything? I have 9-3 Aero as well with the same problem
Used Cims are like 150$ in Sweden, if you do not have a Tech II with a Saab card and Global tis for security acces you can simply swap the proms on the CIM module.
Can you further explain. I have an 08 9-3 aero and cant turn my key past the off position into lock, however, if i leave it unplugged overnight, it allows me to crank it
99% of time a poorly charged battery causes this. It happened to me. I looked at fitting a bypass switch but realized the car had not been driven for over a month. Charged the battery did the key in key out thing from the video, and off it went no problem. Been starting well ever since and i run the car once a week to keep battery charged. No need for bypass.
This happened to me and will work a few times , it wasn't happening very often. It worked around 10 times with disconnecting the power and one day even disconnecting the power or taking fuses out didn't worked. So do expect that one day it wil fail completely. I scraped mine with 150k on the clock and the engine was still going strong I was absolutely gutted. I would buy another one again but a bit worried about this issue happening again.
FYI: My SAAB requires this hack every morning and I have pulled out fuse 2 about 3-400 times to reset the module and double inserted the key and it starts. In short this works even on a daily basis.. I will install an external switch shortly...
I was just saved by this tip. With my 9-3 2.0t Vector automatic 1994. Disconnected the battery pole and it started. Car starts well in cold weather even after more than a week inactivity, but so it's not the battery in my case. Going to think about that switch when this happens again. That's why you always have some tactical tools in a conventional car. Thx!
I was going to do that bypass about 3 months ago when the dash warning showed up and affecting the signal lights to turn on. Just few tries and the signal lights came back to work. Now Signal lights don't work at all, internal lights the headliner don't work, and defroster on rear window doesn't work; these issues showed up at the same time than the steering column malfunctioning. Any suggestions on how to solve those issues? Thanks for recording and sharing the video
Interesting. Mine started this problem recently. It will still run if the light comes on with the car on, i just lose info display. If i the car is off and the message comes on after turning the key to on, it wont start at all. if i just go straight from "off" to "start" with the key, it will start and run just as normal, except the message may or may not come back on.
@@DrDodge24 ah. That's what I get for watching the video on my phone. Without glasses. I agree with you about the cover. If that were my Saab, I would remove the steering wheel and put it on my Logitech G27. Then I would part out the rest of the car. It wouldn't be a daily driver, that's for sure.
Hi Daniel just wanted to ask a few questions? Did you actually solder the wires into the fuse box or did you use fuse clips? That tucked fuse how did you wire that? Both clips separate wires one hot one ground? And if so where did you ground it? Can you give specifics on how you wired the whole thing I’m a little confused. Thank you kindly.
yeah hats off to home girl shes done alot as have you on the american version to make this problems many fixes available online mine surrounds the key unmating when the keyless entry battery goes but yeah 30 sec lol
2003 saab 93 2.0t arc 71k miles this happened after tow truck driver forced the key or towed wothout turning the key .who knows.. I guess you cut power to the module with the switch to atart..start..? Wouldn't pulling the fuse do that? if i discon my batt wait 20 minutes wait a day and hit the yellow reset button button before after, etc that warning comes up as soon as. I reconnect the battery malfunction code comes back on . So if you just pull the fuse will it start?
If anyone has this issue and wants to do the best temporary fix that's EASIEST and cheapest-ish solution (the video would be ever so slightly cheaper but more difficult of an insulation) get a remote controlled battery disconnector switch. I got mine on Amazon for $25 and that way if I ever want to do the proper long term fix, I don't have any permanant drill holes or anything leftover
My issue is the key wont turn at all. In fairness the battery has been dead for about a year and the car has sat there because we couldn't get the hood up. Today we get the hood up and the key will not turn at all. We are in the process of charging the battery because I hear this is normal if the battery is dead. So then when battery is charged this should correct the problem I am assuming?
I had a problem with my 2004 Saab 93 2.0T where the odometer won't read/the speedo won't work/and it'll show abs-traction control and brake malfunction... So I swapped the abs module from my 2006 V6 93 aero and voila my speedo works...my odometer reads mileage...all the abs and brake malfunction issue disappeared then I got hit with the steering lock malfunction but so far so good because it does not affect the car at all I guess it could be a result of the V6 saab abs module registered for the V6 saab keys?? Just was wondering maybe it could be possible that besides the cim I think the abs module could also be a culprit.
This is not good. Steering lock malfunction message is caused by the ign switch not messaging that SCL is unlocked. Remove the ign sw. (ISM) dismantle and clean the contacts. Steering lock failure message is exactly that, replace SCL and program with Tech2. In have never had to replace CIM except for lost keys. Done this over 50times, 30year Saab Master Tech.
Hello! The car is a SAAB 9-3 with a z18xe engine, which suffered a timing belt rupture. We repaired the engine. It was time to start and this is where the problem comes in. When I insert the key into the lock, the display says steering lock malfunction, I CAN'T HEAR IT UNLOCKING THE STEERING WHEEL and I can't turn the key to start. We, of course, disconnected a lot of sockets from the engine during the repair. We rotated the tires left - right and so on. I have the feeling that somehow the car "remembered" the position of the wheels and steering wheel before we disconnected the battery and after we hooked it up they were in a different position.
I have a Saab 9-3 03 vector sid is saying key not accepted, have transponder codes key turns but no crank tried to jus a jumper the car cranks but no start gets spark for a few seconds and it stops getting sparks? :)
"this isnt a permanent fix, this is just temporary" Yeah right pal. That's what I told myself when I blew a brake line on my Buick century. Shops won't replace just the one line, they want to restore the whole rear of the fucking car. I bent the busted line shut and have been driving on three brakes for 2k miles or so.
My buddy mark drove his century for years with front brakes only. Both rear brake lines blew and we put pipe plugs in the master cylinder. When the rear driver side shock tower rusted out he called the junk yard.
I can tell you that it does work for the short term about 6 months then after that it becomes a total bitch and is nearly un resetable by this switch by pass with the car getting very difficult to start. I am going for the second way now chop out the ISM solonoid, remove the searing lock cube to one side and put in a starter switch to the relay on the main fuse box.
Update to above took out the steering lock unit and cable tied it up above the accelerator housing out of the way, can't disconnect it as it causes major problems with the ECU. Got a new PCB for the ignition switch, comes as a kit you will need some silicon contact grease; disabled the key lock solonoid by make an L shaped stopper an epoxy it in place. We now have no luck CK up issues and seem to have 100% start up rate since I have done it. I have also fitted an ignition starter push switch but have not wired it up yet, time will tell.
What a hilarious video. First 20 seconds applies for most cars that are premium/luxury. Saab is in no way or shape unique. How is a conventional inline 4 with a transmission coupled to it complicated and hard to work on? Are you a mechanic or a clown dude? 600-700 bucks not worth fixing/putting on the car?? So you're telling me I can get a good comfortable and safe running car for that money then? If not then why isn't worth it? What a weird video
Depending on the situation, it can be safely resolved. The driver simply needs to put on their hazards and take whatever action is necessary to reduce risk to the driver or surrounding drivers.
I hear that can't happen while driving the car. Once you turn off the ignition then it locks till you reset the battery once again or switch in this case.
I'm wondering why I haven't ever heard of a Toyota or Honda having this issue. I hope the feeling of self-importance that comes with owning one of these unreliable pieces of shit has been worth it for everyone who's had to deal with these stupid kind of problems that, according to Honda and Toyota owners...DON'T HAVE TO EXIST! In addition, they have warnings built in for problems that haven't even happened yet. Thanks for making the video but these cars are going to be extinct soon here in the states and it can't happen quick enough.
Toyota and Honda have seen how other manufacturers make shit that fails and have decided that if you can't beat them join them. They both make a product that will rust away due to insufficient underbody protective coatings and insufficient treatment to steel panels prior to spot welding. They also have vehicles with a piss poor engines designed to fail just after the warranty period has expired. The issues highlighted here are 15-20 years of usage where either the brushes in a tiny motor have finally worn out or a bit of oxidisation is causing a high resistance in a wire or across a connection at a terminal. Saabs were designed to last and GM didn't want any of that.
PArts are expensive because SAAB went out of business in 2012.. Blame the Founder of the auto maker “Spyker” he was selling cars to the public BEFORE THEY WERE ACTUALLY MADE
@@ljbrizo alright dude no need to yell.. GM was giving them a good selling chassis to work with but they kept making the car bigger and bigger. GM was trying to help SAAB survive.. but it was costing GM money also
1:36 “Contact a Saab dealer” is always the saddest part
When you realize there aren’t anymore dealerships around to work on SAABs
I have this problem again, column lock, after paying 1700 2 years ago, 600000 miles. I attempted start the car, after a passenger's leg laid on the lock button, then this problem appeared... I dont have that kind of money and I thought if the sensor was reset, which I dont know how, it would take care. I can start the car, but I have to make 3 to 4 tries. I just hate that. Hate for folks to even work on it for fear that Im getting ripped off ... thanks again for the resolve. I will disconnect with the battery...or get someone to watch your video 🙂 thumbs up!!!
Thank you! You just saved my life ! 😅 it just happened at the supermarket and I knew someone had a trick! Driving home now! Thanks !
I bought a used CIM with key from ebay for about $130 and programmed it to my 9-3 Aero using the tech2. Issue resolved
I just bought a Saab 9-3 Arc and this crap just started happening.
My mechanic is literally installing a start button on my '08 9-3 as I type this. Thanks for sharing this knowledge!
Just had this on my 9-3 aero, interupted the power from battery, and great :) It has got it moving again
How
Did you just disconnect the negative cable and reconnect it? Or did you have to do anything with the wheel or anything? I have 9-3 Aero as well with the same problem
Used Cims are like 150$ in Sweden, if you do not have a Tech II with a Saab card and Global tis for security acces you can simply swap the proms on the CIM module.
Can you further explain. I have an 08 9-3 aero and cant turn my key past the off position into lock, however, if i leave it unplugged overnight, it allows me to crank it
Where is the proms in the cim?
@@christiankirkpatrick7242 i have the same problem with a 08 aero. Did you ever get it fixed? If so what did you have to do to get it to work?
@@christiankirkpatrick7242 do you just unplug the battery every night?
99% of time a poorly charged battery causes this. It happened to me. I looked at fitting a bypass switch but realized the car had not been driven for over a month. Charged the battery did the key in key out thing from the video, and off it went no problem. Been starting well ever since and i run the car once a week to keep battery charged. No need for bypass.
This happened to me and will work a few times , it wasn't happening very often.
It worked around 10 times with disconnecting the power and one day even disconnecting the power or taking fuses out didn't worked. So do expect that one day it wil fail completely.
I scraped mine with 150k on the clock and the engine was still going strong I was absolutely gutted. I would buy another one again but a bit worried about this issue happening again.
FYI: My SAAB requires this hack every morning and I have pulled out fuse 2 about 3-400 times to reset the module and double inserted the key and it starts. In short this works even on a daily basis.. I will install an external switch shortly...
I was just saved by this tip. With my 9-3 2.0t Vector automatic 1994. Disconnected the battery pole and it started.
Car starts well in cold weather even after more than a week inactivity, but so it's not the battery in my case.
Going to think about that switch when this happens again. That's why you always have some tactical tools in a conventional car.
Thx!
You were alot of help my car has this problem but no-one here can fix it
I was going to do that bypass about 3 months ago when the dash warning showed up and affecting the signal lights to turn on. Just few tries and the signal lights came back to work. Now Signal lights don't work at all, internal lights the headliner don't work, and defroster on rear window doesn't work; these issues showed up at the same time than the steering column malfunctioning. Any suggestions on how to solve those issues? Thanks for recording and sharing the video
I replaced the CIM on my Saab using a tech 2 and it fixed my steering lock malfunction.
Pricey
A $600 module is enough to make any Saab owner start sobbing!
compactc9 I thing you mean saabing....
@@FishFind3000 thats what I was thinking
Thank you for the Amazing quick Fix !!!
Interesting. Mine started this problem recently. It will still run if the light comes on with the car on, i just lose info display. If i the car is off and the message comes on after turning the key to on, it wont start at all. if i just go straight from "off" to "start" with the key, it will start and run just as normal, except the message may or may not come back on.
Did I have to turn the switch off when exiting the vehicle to keep the battery from draining?
what if you took the fuse out and put it back in?same thing?
Yeah that's what I thought. So obvious.
I would have tried removing that hideous steering wheel cover first. 😂😜
That's the Saab / Scania Griffin crest. I like it, mostly because of Scania trucks and buses, but I suppose beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
@@rnreajr9184 I'm not talking about the Saab logo lol I'm talking about the ugly fake wood steering wheel cover...
@@DrDodge24 ah. That's what I get for watching the video on my phone. Without glasses. I agree with you about the cover. If that were my Saab, I would remove the steering wheel and put it on my Logitech G27. Then I would part out the rest of the car. It wouldn't be a daily driver, that's for sure.
You can replace steering column lock ..no programming with tech2.
Hi Daniel just wanted to ask a few questions? Did you actually solder the wires into the fuse box or did you use fuse clips? That tucked fuse how did you wire that? Both clips separate wires one hot one ground? And if so where did you ground it?
Can you give specifics on how you wired the whole thing I’m a little confused. Thank you kindly.
Instablaster
I have the same problem on my Cadillac BLS 2008 it says REMOVE KEY AND TURN STEERING TO START. Please I need help.
My question is do you have to worry that while you are driving the steering column could possibly lock again and cause an accident?
In sweden we fix the CIM. buy a used one, reflash it. Done. Or resolder a new flash on it.
What would you charge to do and ship to US?
I think i would just Remove the Lock Pin...also.. Just Saying... Who knows if it will short out and try to lock when Driving.
the lockpin can not be engaged while driving, the where not totally stupid construction it!
Isn't this the same as just removing the fuse and reinserting it back in?
I WAS THINKING THAT TOO, but guess a switch is just abit easier than pulling fuse alot of times??
yeah hats off to home girl shes done alot as have you on the american version to make this problems many fixes available online mine surrounds the key unmating when the keyless entry battery goes but yeah 30 sec lol
Once this starts happening and you disconnect the battery to fix, how often does it reoccur?
For me its now every day.. Used to be once a month...
I have GlobalTIS and i'm running it on windows 7. No virtual machine or xp needed. Only if TIS2000 is used then you need xp.
Yes, and Global tis works perfect on a Win 10 x64 machine aswell ;)
2003 saab 93 2.0t arc 71k miles this happened after tow truck driver forced the key or towed wothout turning the key .who knows..
I guess you cut power to the module with the switch to atart..start..? Wouldn't pulling the fuse do that?
if i discon my batt wait 20 minutes wait a day and hit the yellow reset button button before after, etc that warning comes up as soon as. I reconnect the battery malfunction code comes back on .
So if you just pull the fuse will it start?
If anyone has this issue and wants to do the best temporary fix that's EASIEST and cheapest-ish solution (the video would be ever so slightly cheaper but more difficult of an insulation) get a remote controlled battery disconnector switch. I got mine on Amazon for $25 and that way if I ever want to do the proper long term fix, I don't have any permanant drill holes or anything leftover
Try turning off the switch while running/driving to see what happens
I don't think this is a good idea lol
Bro said "I don't think this is a good idea" 😂😭🤣 Well layed sir, sit u my Gatorade 👁️💪🙌
My issue is the key wont turn at all. In fairness the battery has been dead for about a year and the car has sat there because we couldn't get the hood up. Today we get the hood up and the key will not turn at all. We are in the process of charging the battery because I hear this is normal if the battery is dead. So then when battery is charged this should correct the problem I am assuming?
Did you fixed that problem?
Will it pass inspection like this?
I had a problem with my 2004 Saab 93 2.0T where the odometer won't read/the speedo won't work/and it'll show abs-traction control and brake malfunction... So I swapped the abs module from my 2006 V6 93 aero and voila my speedo works...my odometer reads mileage...all the abs and brake malfunction issue disappeared then I got hit with the steering lock malfunction but so far so good because it does not affect the car at all I guess it could be a result of the V6 saab abs module registered for the V6 saab keys?? Just was wondering maybe it could be possible that besides the cim I think the abs module could also be a culprit.
Very nice but I put my switch inside the card holder behind the gear shift
great video, thanks, which fuse number is it please? thank you
the ignition lock module has a high rate failure on SAAB.
This is not good. Steering lock malfunction message is caused by the ign switch not messaging that SCL is unlocked. Remove the ign sw. (ISM) dismantle and clean the contacts.
Steering lock failure message is exactly that, replace SCL and program with Tech2. In have never had to replace CIM except for lost keys. Done this over 50times, 30year Saab Master Tech.
Hello! The car is a SAAB 9-3 with a z18xe engine, which suffered a timing belt rupture. We repaired the engine. It was time to start and this is where the problem comes in. When I insert the key into the lock, the display says steering lock malfunction, I CAN'T HEAR IT UNLOCKING THE STEERING WHEEL and I can't turn the key to start. We, of course, disconnected a lot of sockets from the engine during the repair. We rotated the tires left - right and so on. I have the feeling that somehow the car "remembered" the position of the wheels and steering wheel before we disconnected the battery and after we hooked it up they were in a different position.
I have a Saab 9-3 03 vector sid is saying key not accepted, have transponder codes key turns but no crank tried to jus a jumper the car cranks but no start gets spark for a few seconds and it stops getting sparks? :)
A good work around. I like this fix. I assume you only need to do this when you get the error message?
"this isnt a permanent fix, this is just temporary"
Yeah right pal. That's what I told myself when I blew a brake line on my Buick century. Shops won't replace just the one line, they want to restore the whole rear of the fucking car. I bent the busted line shut and have been driving on three brakes for 2k miles or so.
My buddy mark drove his century for years with front brakes only. Both rear brake lines blew and we put pipe plugs in the master cylinder. When the rear driver side shock tower rusted out he called the junk yard.
@@Viperman200221 this is so fucked lmao
You should fix that i have a 1990 vw put all new brake lines in myself t
EVERYTHING is temporary Henry
Would be nice to know what fuse it is..........
What is the name of the switch to buy it on ebay?
That crosses will not work for a long time just warning you from Aleskyfinis
Damn, I paid £20 for a used cim and had it programmed for £5 in the UK! 😯
BS
Can you post a link for the the switch? Thanks!
I'm having that problem no power to exnition
You could basically just pull the fuse and stick it back in.
Which fuse?
Every time you start the car, right?
I just wired a push button to the starter relay under hood. Starts every time after yoy turn key to "on" position
fkn genius. thanks ive been using a short little wire opening hood everytime
I have the same code but its starts?
I can tell you that it does work for the short term about 6 months then after that it becomes a total bitch and is nearly un resetable by this switch by pass with the car getting very difficult to start. I am going for the second way now chop out the ISM solonoid, remove the searing lock cube to one side and put in a starter switch to the relay on the main fuse box.
Update to above took out the steering lock unit and cable tied it up above the accelerator housing out of the way, can't disconnect it as it causes major problems with the ECU. Got a new PCB for the ignition switch, comes as a kit you will need some silicon contact grease; disabled the key lock solonoid by make an L shaped stopper an epoxy it in place. We now have no luck CK up issues and seem to have 100% start up rate since I have done it. I have also fitted an ignition starter push switch but have not wired it up yet, time will tell.
Just another Saab story
I did the same exact thing with wires from the fuse but to a push start for my faulty signal switch from the starter ... now I’m having this issue 🧐🌞
Thank you saviour
More than likely the ISM and not Cim Ism on ebay about £40 and 30 mins to change
Dude i disconnected the battery for 30 seconds..bamm wrked..was sweating it lol
Change the ignition module as its plug and play
Those 2 thumbs down are probably from people who sell Saab parts
0:37 Saab seat...too much beans DDD
Now I know why Saab went out of business
What a hilarious video. First 20 seconds applies for most cars that are premium/luxury. Saab is in no way or shape unique. How is a conventional inline 4 with a transmission coupled to it complicated and hard to work on? Are you a mechanic or a clown dude? 600-700 bucks not worth fixing/putting on the car?? So you're telling me I can get a good comfortable and safe running car for that money then? If not then why isn't worth it? What a weird video
very good job!!!!! What a complete pain in the ass though>>>>dont understand why the euro cars always have these ignition module problems
I have a saab 06 9;3 ,it Start running ,but turn off when it at rd ,I remow a fusible and Start again ..if someone got some problem .. tank!
I had the same and now don't won t to start on
Put the car in rice. Works for my phone all the time
Doesn't work
Well I can't do something like this you did. I'm a woman knows not how to do that. I can't afford to replace the module either 😢😢😢
Is there anyone in ga that can do this for my car im willing to pay
great, until it locks the column while driving or similar :))
Depending on the situation, it can be safely resolved. The driver simply needs to put on their hazards and take whatever action is necessary to reduce risk to the driver or surrounding drivers.
I hear that can't happen while driving the car. Once you turn off the ignition then it locks till you reset the battery once again or switch in this case.
I'm wondering why I haven't ever heard of a Toyota or Honda having this issue. I hope the feeling of self-importance that comes with owning one of these unreliable pieces of shit has been worth it for everyone who's had to deal with these stupid kind of problems that, according to Honda and Toyota owners...DON'T HAVE TO EXIST! In addition, they have warnings built in for problems that haven't even happened yet. Thanks for making the video but these cars are going to be extinct soon here in the states and it can't happen quick enough.
Toyota and Honda have seen how other manufacturers make shit that fails and have decided that if you can't beat them join them. They both make a product that will rust away due to insufficient underbody protective coatings and insufficient treatment to steel panels prior to spot welding. They also have vehicles with a piss poor engines designed to fail just after the warranty period has expired. The issues highlighted here are 15-20 years of usage where either the brushes in a tiny motor have finally worn out or a bit of oxidisation is causing a high resistance in a wire or across a connection at a terminal. Saabs were designed to last and GM didn't want any of that.
Don't disconnect and reconnect the battery like he say that the owner did it only makes more problems that show up later on
PArts are expensive because SAAB went out of business in 2012.. Blame the Founder of the auto maker “Spyker” he was selling cars to the public BEFORE THEY WERE ACTUALLY MADE
Um... That's like every auto manufacturer ever?
I BLAME GM FOR SCREWING UP A GOOD CAR COMPANY
@@ljbrizo alright dude no need to yell.. GM was giving them a good selling chassis to work with but they kept making the car bigger and bigger. GM was trying to help SAAB survive.. but it was costing GM money also
Matt GM showed Saab how to make cheaper cars that break easy, take for example the v6 engine, pure trash GM designed garbage, ,GM is no ones friend,