It's so cool that you share this info with us. There was a big fat knife maker that lived near me in the mid 90s named Herb Derr. I was learning on my own from buying Bill Moran videos and when I met Herb I asked him how to do a couple things he actually told me "trade secret" and I needed to "pay my dues and learn on my own". Then I went to the blade show in Atlanta and actually met all the real knife makers I looked up to, Moran, Winkler, Hendrickson, and they GLADLY answered every question I had. Thanks again for helping us out
Great video, as always, Walter. I've finished a couple of blades, and I'm just at the point where I'm ready to make a tsuba, so this came just at the right time for me.
Interesting video, that finish is brilliant, I have never seen boiling used like that before. Never would have thought to do that in a month of Sundays.
I finished my iron tsuba the same way you season a cast iron pan. I used canola oil and backed it at 400deg and repeated it 4 times. A beautiful Golden finish, tough as nails and non stick😄
Walter, I know you’ve been through life’s mill recently with your father. I’ve had a few struggles too, so I say this with much gratitude that when you mentioned the Nakago Ana, meaning tang hole, and that saying such a phrase in an Alabamian restroom could get one added to the sex offenders list, well, it elicited the biggest belly laugh I’ve had in quite some time, so I simply wanted to say thanks. Your videos are perfection enough already, but when peppered with your dry wit, they’re just priceless. Tang Hole, just hilarious!
29 degrees here too, only its celcius. I'm stuck in a heat wave :( So jealous of the sub zero temperatures. Pretty cool tsuba, but it does seem a little thick. Plus the tang hole isn't centered :(
I have a question because there was something I didn't understand, why do you have to seal it in wax? Does the final product have to be covered in wax all the time? Does the final product need to stay waxy or else it will rust? I thought the blue rust or black rust will prevent read rust from forming.
Muy buen Video... para hacer este tipo de trabajos en aceros he usado la formula que mencionan: Agua Oxigenada 30vol., vinagre de alcohol y sal comestible... queda muy bueno el efecto rústico. Saludos.
It really makes you wonder how the original smiths figured out these processes. It seems like the last thing you would think of would be taking your nice, shiny iron and rubbing raddish paste on it, rusting it, boiling it, and then whatever else. Maybe the first guy was just crazy and got lucky.
Hi Walter, can I do this same aging treatment on hot rolled, ASTM A36 Steel? I already made the tsuba, I used boiled linseed oil but it's not very resilient, so I'm looking for another option. Thanks!
My forge is full of snow. My lid blew off in a storm the other day and I didn't notice till today. It's warm (31) today and with the sun out I'm sure it is melting in my forge. I don't care if it gets we I just don't like the thought. I might fire it up in a couple days but looks like I have to wait for the thaw because it will be full of ice after tomorrow.
It's too brittle. A sword has very different working conditions from a tsuba. It has to cut, flex, and so on, whereas a tsuba just has to sit there and not rust.
I have a question: I'm entertaining the idea to build my own forge press, but what I'm wondering about is how much pressure do I need, or rather how little can I get away with? I'm looking at a hydraulic cylinder that can deliver a pressure of 6.4 (metric) tonnes at 2000 psi. Do you think that would work? Keep in mind that I'd only be working in fairly small quantities and with fairly small stock (I'm planning on using it for damascus making and san mai blades), but on billets no thicker than 2 inches or so. Do you think one of those cylinders could do the job or do I need to look for something with a bit more *umph* to it?
+Walter Sorrells Great video. I tried your rust solution... I cleaned the metal really well with soap and water. Sprayed it with white vinegar, heated it up a little, sprayed the rust sol then repeated, then boiled it, tuned black, but the problem is none of it stuck to the metal (A36). It all rubbed off... What am I doing wrong?
Dan Weniger You have to do it multiple times. Put it on, rub off the extra with a toothbrush or something similar, then repeat and repeat until you have a nice even coat.
Walter Sorrells Thanks for the quick response! It's quite interesting that the same process developed in such completely different circumstances. I expect most Japanese sword owners and old gun owners would be pretty surprised. Wax seems like a much more sensible way to protect the surface than oiling as well.
Shouldn't the tsuba have an oval shaped hole on its side? and normally japanese blades have six sides but my knowledge on japanese blade is limited so I might be wrong.
I always wondered - is tsuba also to balance the sword? Like a pommel in european swords? Do you have to weight your tsuba to specific weights or it's not that important in katanas?
a katana is a thin and top heavy sword intended for killing in one slice not flopping around and fencing the way European swords do so a katana is designed to have massive cutting power and a handle that can be pushed and pulled
Hey, Walter! Once again, fantastic video. Why do you use those particular ingredients for the rusting solution? How do they make the steel rust so quickly? Can I use this patination on my carbon steel knives? Thanks.
+Anirudh Garg Lots of people more qualified to answer than me, but they're generally meant to just keep your hand from slipping up onto the blade more than they are a "guard" to keep other blades from getting to your hand.
in japan heavy armor wasnt really common so when using swords the idea was to practice and become incredibly good because typically one cut is the winner thats why the katana is shaped like an extension of the arm and not like a cross as many Europeans are the tsuba was not only tp keep your hand from the blade but usually held a design that showed your character any skilled swordsman knows not to block a sword but to rather avoid it and counter because even a glancing strike can finish a fight or damage your blade the gist of it is first strike wins
You ended up with a really nice, understated piece that seems almost alive when one looks closely. BTW, all the steam (smoke?) when you apply the rusting solution is pretty interesting. Does such a rapid oxidation produce a lot of heat?
Zero sum is right. It's just the water evaporating from the relatively warm iron. Bear in mind, it's a below-freezing ambient temperature, so anything vaguely warm is going to create steam.
You should, but old "cast" iron is not the same thing as wrought. Much of the old cast iron would have been sand cast and isn't going to have the same chemical composition as wrought regardless of how it was cast.
Awesome video! Thanks, Walter. I have one question: What exactly is the role of the vinegar for making patinas? The method you used for removing the mill scale with hot vinegar is very similar to methods on the internet for creating a patina (which is mill scale). This seems contradictory. Thanks.
I take it that the stuff from Real Wrought Iron Co isn't quite the same thing as what you are using here? (Still love the video. Just asking a question.)
They recyle "reclaimed" wrought iron by forge welding a bunch of it together to turn it back into barstock, so that way it is easier for blacksmiths to forge with, and can be immediately used to forge into w/e they want. It is real wrought iron, but they are not smelting it or making it from scratch, but rather are consolidating it into standard shapes and sizes. And I've heard that since they are located in the UK, it costs a lot to ship to the US. You can usually find smaller quantities on ebay (which is where I have obtained it from before) . Or, if you live in an area with a lot of old barns and junkyards you can go scavange for it by looking for it in old wagon wheels etc. Hope that helps :)
Hey Walter, I know your preferred style is Japanese blades. ( Not relevant, but I also enjoy your novels and my chisa katana ) I have discovered a shortage of European style guard making videos, in particualar the saber, cutlass, and rapier guards that protect the the fingers and hands. Any chance of you doing a sail guard video or a similar guard? I am only at the stock removal level of hobby blade making. Recently I decided to modify some machetes by adding a knuckle loop. Litttle to no information on this. I want a nice rustic patina. It serves no purpose other than fun yard work and murdering plastic water bottles for recycle.
Seeing you freehand the tsuba outline, without even the most rudimentary alignment, makes me shudder. But perhaps you are aiming for some "organic" less than perfect symmetry?
+balthzar16 If you look at traditionally made tsubas, they're almost always slightly out of round. I have machine tools, so I can make things that look like they came out of a Chrysler factory...but that's not really the point.
Stubs is 17 cm !!!! No. Just no. 2 and 3 quarter inches is nowhere near 17cm ... Americans please learn the correct way to measure. It's not 1910 anymore... Imperial measurement is stupid!!!!!!
Muy buen Video... para hacer este tipo de trabajos en aceros he usado la formula que mencionan: Agua Oxigenada 30vol., vinagre de alcohol y sal comestible... queda muy bueno el efecto rústico. Saludos.
For someone with such expertise as you have you are very down to earth.
I really love how you share all your knowledge
It's so cool that you share this info with us. There was a big fat knife maker that lived near me in the mid 90s named Herb Derr. I was learning on my own from buying Bill Moran videos and when I met Herb I asked him how to do a couple things he actually told me "trade secret" and I needed to "pay my dues and learn on my own". Then I went to the blade show in Atlanta and actually met all the real knife makers I looked up to, Moran, Winkler, Hendrickson, and they GLADLY answered every question I had. Thanks again for helping us out
im into blacksmithing, and your channel is the best, you are a very good teacher thanks keep it up.
A thing of beauty! Well done Mr. Sorrells.
great video, liked it even more than your older work.
Great video, as always, Walter. I've finished a couple of blades, and I'm just at the point where I'm ready to make a tsuba, so this came just at the right time for me.
Love it. It almost looks like the surf of a meteorite!
Interesting video, that finish is brilliant, I have never seen boiling used like that before. Never would have thought to do that in a month of Sundays.
Great video, excellent instruction and information, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge
This is dope! I love it. lovely texture and patina,
Beautiful. That natural surface looks really nice. Smart of you to keep it
I finished my iron tsuba the same way you season a cast iron pan.
I used canola oil and backed it at 400deg and repeated it 4 times.
A beautiful
Golden finish, tough as nails and non stick😄
not trying to be cocky, love your videos and laconic style of delivery you've made me laugh out loud more than once
That came out _really_ good!
It almost looks like parkerizing of hardened steel.
You make the best videos. Very nice and awesome.
This tsuba is beautiful. You, chemistry, and time make a great team!
thanks for the metallurgy lesson
love the show
This is so amazing every time I watch one of your videos it teaches ne something new :D
Great, looks great, good sense of humor!
Walter, I know you’ve been through life’s mill recently with your father. I’ve had a few struggles too, so I say this with much gratitude that when you mentioned the Nakago Ana, meaning tang hole, and that saying such a phrase in an Alabamian restroom could get one added to the sex offenders list, well, it elicited the biggest belly laugh I’ve had in quite some time, so I simply wanted to say thanks. Your videos are perfection enough already, but when peppered with your dry wit, they’re just priceless. Tang Hole, just hilarious!
Dude, tang hole. You're a unique dude. I dig it.
Nice tutorial and a pretty, beefy tsuba. I like to use citric acid to remove scale, I find it is faster than white vinegar.
Beautiful!
Great video!
genious!nice look!
Wow,.... That's amazing
29 degrees here too, only its celcius. I'm stuck in a heat wave :( So jealous of the sub zero temperatures. Pretty cool tsuba, but it does seem a little thick. Plus the tang hole isn't centered :(
nice work
man you really tore up that tang hole
Oh, he can file my tang hole all day until it's smooth.
finalbossd fruit
That's what she said lol
This looks really great :D
Speaking of Minnesota, hello from Marshall Minnesota, where it was -23 Tuesday! =)
Definitely one of your best videos hahaha
The techniques used here to apply the patina reminds me of rust-bluing firearm components...
I have a question because there was something I didn't understand, why do you have to seal it in wax? Does the final product have to be covered in wax all the time? Does the final product need to stay waxy or else it will rust? I thought the blue rust or black rust will prevent read rust from forming.
@Walter Sorrells about how thick was the wrought iron plate?
Muy buen Video... para hacer este tipo de trabajos en aceros he usado la formula que mencionan: Agua Oxigenada 30vol., vinagre de alcohol y sal comestible... queda muy bueno el efecto rústico. Saludos.
Great info.
Awesome
Where do you get the wrought iron? You can get cast iron from brake rotors and drums.
can the process you used to blacken the iron work on different types of metals?
How did you get through that with out saying Tsuba dooby doo.
It really makes you wonder how the original smiths figured out these processes. It seems like the last thing you would think of would be taking your nice, shiny iron and rubbing raddish paste on it, rusting it, boiling it, and then whatever else. Maybe the first guy was just crazy and got lucky.
i think he tried to make radish soup in a rusty pan :P
Hi Walter, can I do this same aging treatment on hot rolled, ASTM A36 Steel? I already made the tsuba, I used boiled linseed oil but it's not very resilient, so I'm looking for another option. Thanks!
Was the wrought iron from the water tower part of the structure or part of the tank itself?
My forge is full of snow. My lid blew off in a storm the other day and I didn't notice till today. It's warm (31) today and with the sun out I'm sure it is melting in my forge. I don't care if it gets we I just don't like the thought. I might fire it up in a couple days but looks like I have to wait for the thaw because it will be full of ice after tomorrow.
you mentioned that the magnetite enhances the durability of the tsuba , so why it is not used to cover the sword's cutting edge after sharpening it ?
It's too brittle. A sword has very different working conditions from a tsuba. It has to cut, flex, and so on, whereas a tsuba just has to sit there and not rust.
I see, thank you.
How was the machinability of the wrought iron?
this is AWESOME
I have a question: I'm entertaining the idea to build my own forge press, but what I'm wondering about is how much pressure do I need, or rather how little can I get away with?
I'm looking at a hydraulic cylinder that can deliver a pressure of 6.4 (metric) tonnes at 2000 psi.
Do you think that would work? Keep in mind that I'd only be working in fairly small quantities and with fairly small stock (I'm planning on using it for damascus making and san mai blades), but on billets no thicker than 2 inches or so.
Do you think one of those cylinders could do the job or do I need to look for something with a bit more *umph* to it?
Personally, I'd go bigger. Mine is about twice that powerful and I frequently wish I had more power. Not saying it wouldn't work, but more is better!
Walter Sorrells
Certianly. Thanks a lot for the response =)
No ana for kogai and kozuka?? Tbh a tsuba looks bizarre without them
Very cool video. I enjoyed the patina solution formula. Will that formula work on any kind of iron?
+Christopher Melvin Any simple carbon steels, yes. And that would include mild steel, A36, etc.
+Walter Sorrells Thank you. Great information.
+Walter Sorrells Great video. I tried your rust solution... I cleaned the metal really well with soap and water. Sprayed it with white vinegar, heated it up a little, sprayed the rust sol then repeated, then boiled it, tuned black, but the problem is none of it stuck to the metal (A36). It all rubbed off... What am I doing wrong?
Dan Weniger You have to do it multiple times. Put it on, rub off the extra with a toothbrush or something similar, then repeat and repeat until you have a nice even coat.
It's just occurred to me that this sounds a lot like bluing. Is there a difference between patination and bluing?
I thought I mentioned that in the video, but maybe not. It's essentially the same thing as the rust bluing process used on old shotguns, etc.
Walter Sorrells Thanks for the quick response! It's quite interesting that the same process developed in such completely different circumstances. I expect most Japanese sword owners and old gun owners would be pretty surprised. Wax seems like a much more sensible way to protect the surface than oiling as well.
It looks pretty thick (heavy) compared to traditional. What's your opinion on that?
Georgia... yep. I am from Hinesville.
On your katana sayas do you do the paintwork, or outsource? It’d be a really cool video to see that process if you have the time
Shouldn't the tsuba have an oval shaped hole on its side? and normally japanese blades have six sides but my knowledge on japanese blade is limited so I might be wrong.
awesome!
I always wondered - is tsuba also to balance the sword? Like a pommel in european swords? Do you have to weight your tsuba to specific weights or it's not that important in katanas?
a katana is a thin and top heavy sword intended for killing in one slice not flopping around and fencing the way European swords do so a katana is designed to have massive cutting power and a handle that can be pushed and pulled
How did they seal a tsuba in Japan back then
?
Hey, Walter! Once again, fantastic video.
Why do you use those particular ingredients for the rusting solution?
How do they make the steel rust so quickly?
Can I use this patination on my carbon steel knives?
Thanks.
Did you buff it up with scotchbrite after final boil prior to waxing?
29 degrees sucks? Here in Wisconsin and other states connected to the boarder of Canada it gets to -50 each year the toilet water gets frozen
Can any one tell me why the tsubas a re so small, they make protecting the wrists in kendo a pure nightmare.
+Anirudh Garg Lots of people more qualified to answer than me, but they're generally meant to just keep your hand from slipping up onto the blade more than they are a "guard" to keep other blades from getting to your hand.
in japan heavy armor wasnt really common so when using swords the idea was to practice and become incredibly good because typically one cut is the winner thats why the katana is shaped like an extension of the arm and not like a cross as many Europeans are the tsuba was not only tp keep your hand from the blade but usually held a design that showed your character any skilled swordsman knows not to block a sword but to rather avoid it and counter because even a glancing strike can finish a fight or damage your blade the gist of it is first strike wins
You ended up with a really nice, understated piece that seems almost alive when one looks closely.
BTW, all the steam (smoke?) when you apply the rusting solution is pretty interesting. Does such a rapid oxidation produce a lot of heat?
That would be the heat gun getting the iron up to temp which evaporates the liquid and makes the reaction occur quicker.
Zero sum is right. It's just the water evaporating from the relatively warm iron. Bear in mind, it's a below-freezing ambient temperature, so anything vaguely warm is going to create steam.
so I guess I should hang on to all the old cast Iron I can get my hands on then right?
You should, but old "cast" iron is not the same thing as wrought. Much of the old cast iron would have been sand cast and isn't going to have the same chemical composition as wrought regardless of how it was cast.
@@erichpryde5309 good to know, thanks for the tip.
if you're trying to get the Fe3 finish why not put it back in the forge?
Ty
Awesome video! Thanks, Walter.
I have one question: What exactly is the role of the vinegar for making patinas? The method you used for removing the mill scale with hot vinegar is very similar to methods on the internet for creating a patina (which is mill scale). This seems contradictory.
Thanks.
TANG HOLE, my new favorite word
Lex Leon that's my favourite word for the week! Tang Hole!
I guess I still haven't lost my childish ways....when he said tang hole I lost it...
He said “tang holes”… lol! Great video though
So you're blueing it?
Great video, can you tell me did you use 3% Hydrogen-peroxide or stronger?
I take it that the stuff from Real Wrought Iron Co isn't quite the same thing as what you are using here? (Still love the video. Just asking a question.)
They recyle "reclaimed" wrought iron by forge welding a bunch of it together to turn it back into barstock, so that way it is easier for blacksmiths to forge with, and can be immediately used to forge into w/e they want. It is real wrought iron, but they are not smelting it or making it from scratch, but rather are consolidating it into standard shapes and sizes. And I've heard that since they are located in the UK, it costs a lot to ship to the US. You can usually find smaller quantities on ebay (which is where I have obtained it from before) . Or, if you live in an area with a lot of old barns and junkyards you can go scavange for it by looking for it in old wagon wheels etc. Hope that helps :)
Hey Walter, I know your preferred style is Japanese blades. ( Not relevant, but I also enjoy your novels and my chisa katana ) I have discovered a shortage of European style guard making videos, in particualar the saber, cutlass, and rapier guards that protect the the fingers and hands. Any chance of you doing a sail guard video or a similar guard? I am only at the stock removal level of hobby blade making. Recently I decided to modify some machetes by adding a knuckle loop. Litttle to no information on this. I want a nice rustic patina. It serves no purpose other than fun yard work and murdering plastic water bottles for recycle.
Cómo puedo aprender a hacer esti?
Seeing you freehand the tsuba outline, without even the most rudimentary alignment, makes me shudder. But perhaps you are aiming for some "organic" less than perfect symmetry?
+balthzar16 If you look at traditionally made tsubas, they're almost always slightly out of round. I have machine tools, so I can make things that look like they came out of a Chrysler factory...but that's not really the point.
Why does it make you shudder?
Great video and amazing tsuba. But Nebraska has worse weather lol.
beautiful job, but you already know that
+Walter sorrils I have a wooden tsuba made from plywood, I painted it it spray paint but its not a good finish any solutions pls thanks
I would hate using a jewelers saw on this....the one I've got, that I use for cutting bar material, would NOT work.
Didn't know you are a Georgia boy! I hope the recent "snow event" around here didn't affect ya too bad. :)
i really need jar lid in my life
awaome. ty.
lol, you think Georgia is bad try Vermont this winter, -27 f, now that's cold!
try Canada, I placed a bucket on my forge so i could find it in the winter, nope, not anymore
dylan Lewis lol, yeah you win.
Peter Parker but you dont have 110 f summers like we do!
EvanMichael47 we have really humid summers, 90%+ all year, so it feels like hell
looks heavy. threw the balance off.
Ah, this is essentially a rust blue. Like on firearms?
i was always told to stick in your jean pocket and wipe nose grease on it! outside grease! not inside! lol helps the patina
"Nozoil" is also the secret ingredient for adding finishing patina to briar smoking pipes. Excellent to know it works here, too!
men are you chris griffin?
いいね また来ます
I live with in Alabama he also ain't lyin
Jar Lid = Arkansas Engineering....
First one!
Toronto, -23
Old horse shoes.
Too much damn work.
Stubs is 17 cm !!!! No. Just no. 2 and 3 quarter inches is nowhere near 17cm ... Americans please learn the correct way to measure. It's not 1910 anymore... Imperial measurement is stupid!!!!!!
Well I be a Jimnney Cricket.
150 years olddddddddd haha
Muy buen Video... para hacer este tipo de trabajos en aceros he usado la formula que mencionan: Agua Oxigenada 30vol., vinagre de alcohol y sal comestible... queda muy bueno el efecto rústico. Saludos.