This is an outstanding video, but there’s a very important step missing. Before you even think about loosening a bolt on that compressor, slip some thick cardboard in the holes left after the fan is removed. I found out the hard way the radiator is made of an aluminum alloy that has material properties not so dissimilar from paper mache. My compressor was very oily, and it slipped out of my hand, into the radiator, and the job immediately went up by $175😢
I just replaced mine using your video. Thanks. I appreciate the information. Took me 6 hours. Always nice to add tools to my collection. Stud removal sockets worked perfect.
Thank you! I replaced the A/C compressor and drier on my 2005 Montego, and this video saved me a lot of time. I removed the drier from under the car. By removing the windshield washer tank screws and setting it off to the side, I had just enough room to secure the tube to the top of the drier. If you are thinking about taking on this task, it took me about 12 hours all together, and the drier was about 2.5 hours of the total effort. I had two estimates for $1300, and it cost me about $400 for parts including manifold gauges (Harbor Freight), vacuum pump (Amazon), R134A (Amazon), and getting the system professionally evacuated before I started.
Your video was a huge help. I had the compressor replaced last year by a Ford mechanic. It failed last month. It was not under warranty any more, of course. I was not willing to fork out another chuck of cash for Ford to do it again. I saved a huge amount doing it myself. Was done on a 2005 Freestyle. What is different on the 2005 Freestyle is a shield over the compressor pulley that was not in your video. I had to figure out how to get it off. I found out the mechanic put the bolts and studs in the wrong places making removal a problem. I reinstalled the bolts and studs in the correct positions making re installation a lot easier. I had to remove the left front wheel well shield completely to make changing the receiver/dryer much easier. Over all your video was awesome! Thanks for the "help".
Brian you are a life saver! Thank you for this video. My girlfriend just inherited a Montego from her mom with only 89,000 miles and the car is mint so she’s just going to drive it. The AC compressor has the oil all over the bottom of it and that frame part you showed. I’ll be tackling this project in the next couple months. Thank you for this video, it’s going to save me a ton of time and frustration.
Very helpful video and answers to publics questions. I replaced the compressor today with very little problems such as a couple of electrical connectors difficult to unclip, timing belt issues. I found that the two studs on the compressor can be removed with a 5mm socket. Harbor freight sells a serpentine belt tool that works well from the top. When reinstalling the belt I took all the tension off with the long handle tool from HF and tied it all the way back with a piece of light rope, then it was just a matter of reaching up from the bottom to align the belt before untying the rope and easing the handle back. Visually check that the belt is in the proper grooves on all the pulleys. Put two and a 1/4 cans of freon in and everything is working well so far. Bought a $99. dollar AC vacumn pump at HF with 20% additional 20% off that worked well. My system was working so so but didn't cool enough at idle, tried the valve replacement trick but didn't work so system wasn't dirty and all I replaced was the compressor only. Thanks again for the great video.
I tired putting in a new scroll valve, and also tried the trick of installing the valve/spring in reverse order - but still no cold air at idle. I am thinking I need a new compressor - but I am wondering what you meant when you said "system wasnt dirty". I saw a dry, powdery dark colored substance on the original scroll valve, and I saw a greyish, oily substance on the new scroll valve when I took it back out to revers install it. Would that indicate a "dirty system"? If so, what else should I do?
Great video guys super helpful! I just found out today that my compressor is leaking oil and refrigerant.. I own a 05 ford five hundred. Had it for 3 years. Now it hasn't had a/c for about a year.. So I decided to look and I saw exactly what this video showed! Love it! Also would love to learn more keep it up!
Thanks for the great video! Follow this I replaced the compressor on a Ford Freestyle that is a wagon version of Five Hundred. I do noticed something that maybe helpful to share： 1. The two studs do not need stud remover tool. It has a 5mm hexagon head and can be loosen with a 1/4 wrench with the right joint and extension bar. The top stud is a little tricky as it is quite close to the frame on front. just loosen it with ratchet wrench then change to an adjustable wrench to retract it all the way. If only use the ratchet wrench it will be blocked by the fan rest hook on the front frame, and locked there, very embarrass and I had to snip off the extended tiny flat end of the fan rest. Not function problem though. :( 2. To snap on to the belt tensioner, a 3/8" break bar is still too big for me. I had to buy a separate long 3/8 ratchet wrench, and use pry bar to help snap the head on to the square box on the tensioner. This long ratchet wrench better be as long as possible, and flat as possible, and should not have a click-to-release or quick release head. I bought a 14" long one and the length is good and handy. Does not need to be longer. But mine has a flex head unfortunately. I had to use pry bar to press the head till snap on. For such long wrench maybe help with a pry bar is needed anyways. 3. When install the new compressor, I had hard time to lift it in place to put on the bolt. In the end, I used the serpentine belt to lift the the clutch/wheel end, and hang it on the top engine mount racket. So lucky it fits and the work is now much easier. I took this chance and replaced the serpentine belt also. The old one got no sign of damage or aging but it is 11 years old already. Hope this helpful for you.
+shawn w great info that should help many. As for two studs the reason I call for the stud remover is in the salt belt of the USA here the studs corrode in enough that the tiny tip will just round over every time you try to remove them.
Thank you fir the video. All your videos are AWESOME and detail. I do have a question. As you already know, this car has a very similar engine and ac system as Ford Freestyle(ours is 2007 ford Freestyle Limited with "DUAL AIR"). So FYI, we replaced the compressor(3 times with NEW ones not refurbished), NEW condenser, NEW dryer, NEW Radiator Fan, NEW expansion valve(3 times), even changed the Scroll valve(control valve) once, checked ALL AC related connectors and wires under the hood too(didn't check or replaced the AC replay tho)...the ONLY thing we haven't changed is the "Evaporator". But the AC still NOT working. When stopped, AC is blowing warm/hot air(ambient temperature), when moving at higher speed it slightly cools down about 60~70 degrees on the freeway....we also had it Professionally charged (and discharged) with proper amt of oil and refrigerant few times. Still does not work right. 1. Do you have any idea as to what might be the problem, and/or did we miss something? 2. Could it be the evaporator or evaporators (not sure if it has 1 or 2 evaporators since it has DUAL AIR system) causing the problem? 3. If it has 2 evaporators, where is the rear evaporator located or could it be the problem? (not really sure how this DUAL AIR system is designed and operates if you can make a video on that I greatly appreciate) ANY info as to what it might be, would be awesome.🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you for this video. It took me a day and a half (I did the condenser too, vacuumed the system and recharged it) and it was really freakin hard! But, nothing beats the sense of accomplishment of bringing ice cold air back to my 11 year old car for me, my wife and kid to enjoy just in time for the summer.
One item I found that should be changed. Do not ever open a system while under a vacuum. It will draw atmospheric moisture into the system. Only open the system while under a small pressure. Either have 1 PSi of refrigerant in the system or put nitrogen into it before opening. 1PSI of refrigerant is legal as it is called deminis according to EPA. Very nice job of explaining the change process.
A very informative video. Replaced the leaky compressor on my 05 Montego last week. Now back to having ice cold air conditioning. Car has less than 50,000 miles on it and the AC has not been working since at least winter 2012 or spring 2013. Unforgivable!
Hi. I have a 2005 500. Had both the compressor and condenser replaced with brand new parts. Had system recharged several times. All lines high and low have no kinks or cracks. My AC will not blow cold for longer than 10 mins after charging. This has gone on for 2 yrs. Have it charged/checked same results. No one can find the problem. You're the best mechanic I've seen when it comes to Ford vehicles. Any idea what the problem is? Or any suggestions I can give my mechanic here on how to fix it? Your help is greatly appreciated. Please help me, its sweltering in Atlanta right now.
Thank you so much for all the videos. Very helpful and well done. I have been troubleshooting intermittent ac. I replaced the scroll valve only to find out the solenoid in the compressor has gone bad. Off to replace the compressor tonight. Wish me luck :)
Jeremy Carlson I got the compressor removed last night nice and easy thanks to this video. I found the studs take a 5mm socket so I didn't have to buy a stud removal set. Also, I was worried that I may not have the proper tool extensions to complete the removal as used in the video but I was able to get in there with my wrench easy enough.
Hey buddy how's it going just want to congratulate you on your videos they have great information I have a AC compressor problem on my 2012 Ford fusion I tested true power to the compressor to see if the clutch would engage it did not engage so I took it to the ac shop and they told me it was the AC compressor that need to be changed out after troubleshooting and reading gauges I have a question do I need to replace the dryer and condenser or just the AC compressor and do a vacuum flush and recharge on it information will be greatly appreciate it thanks.
Christopher he has a video on that scroll valves situation. It's very helpful from what I remember you have to completely remove Freon before you replace because doing so will leak it right out and might get hurt
Great video on replacing compressor . I have a 2007 Montego the compressor stopped working .. The 10 amp fuse was blown I replaced it and it popped again .. Could it be the coil in the compressor .?
Hello. I'm in the middle of a compressor replacement on my 06 five hundred. I have the bolts out of the compressor but the studs are too long where as my compressor hits against the frame before it reaches the end of them. I didn't notice you have a problem In this video. Can you share some insight. Thanks awesome video!
Hi excellent DIY! I noticed my new compressor does not have the dowel (threaded insert) in the front holes. Do these transfer once I get the old one out or do I have the wrong compressor for my 05 Five Hundred? 6/05 build date.
Any ideas? I went to a local junkyard and tried to get the compressor off an 07 Five Hundred to save some cash and get some experience taking it off so I'd have some experience when I try to do it on my own car. Only thing is that I couldn't get the compressor out of the car. The studs on the passenger side of the compressor made it so that I couldn't actually remove the compressor from the car. When I tried to remove it, the compressor pulley would hit the frame of the car and I could go no further. Have you encountered this?
+bigbob1122 You will need to use a stud remover to get them out and going back in also, this is the one that I use here- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K1KHB6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000K1KHB6&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=NEHFCQ4EU542DMOI
Hello, I have a 2006 Ford Freestyle. My car too started doing the same thing where the air conditioning didn't work at idle and a little cooler on the freeway. I took it into the mechanic today and asked them to replace the expansion valve. Since I have dual air, they replaced two expansion valves and added in freon, etc., to the tune of $568. Well, unfortunately, it just made it slightly cooler while moving the car but not on idle. They recommend replacing the compressor. I'm beginning to wonder if it should be the seal that is replaced instead. Not sure what to do next.
yea it does run good no codes that came up on the orange machine my friend hook up it does suck up gas it the brakes and especially the back brakes seem to run down prematurely and having problems with the ac
Your video how to change A/C compressor on a 2007 Montego was great. I have the same problem. Also only cool air comes out of driver side vent & warm air comes out of passenger side vent. What is causing this? Will this correct itself when the compressor is replaced?
Great video. One quick question though. My Ford 500 jerks at high speeds and when I'm braking. Smells like burning rubber when I go uphill. I was told its got to be the clutch. Then I realized the AC compressor has a direct relationship with the clutch (and by the way it blows hot air). So do these two have a direct relationship? Does a compressor come with a clutch or I need to buy that separately? The uphill struggles though are my major worry. What actually causes the vehicle to stall while climbing? Please help. Thanks
These have many problems with the ETC system more than anything else but while that is in being diagnosed misfires should be monitored along with mode 6 data for past misfires.
When you accessed the low pressure port. How did you get the VMV loose from the bracket to move it out of the way to make more room? I tugged and pulled with no avail. I can see a tab on the back side of the bracket but couldn't figure out how the bracket works.
I just reach down in there no need to pull vmv. If you need to pull vmv depress the tab you saw all the way and wiggle it off towards the firewall. You have to really man handle it.
I have a 2005 freestyle and just put a new ac compresser on it and it blows cool air but not cold cold air but after it sits at idle for a bit it starts to blow hot what you think it is
I have one on an 05 that the clutch won't kick in nor the fan. You made mention that the AC clutch will engage and fan will start. Where would I look at wiring. I have 5 volts at pressure switch on compressor and ground. No voltage at plug of compressor when engaged. I have no access to schematics
Liked and saved to favorites ! My only regret Brian, is that I don't live close to your shop. Was this a new dealer purchased replaced ac compressor or aftermarket ? Thank you so much, John
Dude first 5 min kudos to you for getting that done. Over all good video but I think for us slow learners a bit out of our league, I think ill let a mechanic do it :-)... Could you do a step by step changing breaks for the five hundred, haven't found a good video out there, thanks
Great video detail of the AC compressor replacement. I have an 05 Freestyle. The AC has been inoperative for more than a year. I was told at a local repair shop that the entire system would need to be replaced...lines included (apparently, there could be trash in the lines that could damage the new compressor). I'd like to make this a DIY repair and replace all the major AC system components, then take it to have the system evacuated and charged. Does the local repair shop's replacement of lines sound reasonable?
I have a 2005 Ford 500 and replace the scroll valve and put 1 can of freon in it and it's in the red with 1 can in it and still no cold air. I'm not sure what to do? Do u think I need a new AC compressor?
I have an 05 Ford 500 and I don't know if the fans are working but it's no longer blowing that cold unless I'm driving down the highway what do you think my problem is the fans the compressor itself which I no longer think it is the compressor it's fully charged I know for sure
My 2007 Freestyle's ac quit working and I have replaced 2 serpentine belts within 3 days as the compressor appears to be frozen now. Will it hurt to drive it to a garage without the serpentine belt? I know it will steer really bad, but I think I can muscle it there. The garage is about 15 miles away. Thanks
Is there some other way to access the oil pressure sending unit other than the process of removing the air compressor which you demonstrated here? As you know the sending unit is mounted in the block right behind the air compressor mounting bracket! I can't figure out a way to access the switch other than removing the cooling fan panel and the air compressor. I guess it wouldn't be necessary to disconnect all the lines to the compressor, still a big job to replace a $9.00 part. Oh well. Any ideas??? Excellent job on your videos by the way. Thanks for all your help.
this may sound stupid but if im doing this at home.. how do i go about putting a vacuum on the system or is this something i should take to the shop and have them do? i was quoted at almost 900 dollars, but found all the parts i need for 200 so i wanted to try myself.
Very nice video. Do you have to replace any other parts when replacing the compressor or do you just flush the condensor and lines. I was told by a shop that the entire A/C system had to be replaced, condensor, dryer, all hoses, etc., when the A/C compressor went bad and possibly put debris into the system.
Cant really flush newer condensers, if they get contaminated they have to be replaced. If you're just replacing the compressor, take a look at the oil inside of it when you pull it out. If it is clean/clear, then the system is most likely not contaminated. In this case you could get away just fine with replacing the compressor and dryer. If the compressor failed and the oil looks dirty/brown/black, then you'll need to replace the condenser, TXV, and hoses as well.
How much should this repair cost? I am in Arizona and want to know if it is worth putting more money into it or just trying to dump the car for something else. I made it through 1 summer here, not really looking forward to another.
I followed your video exactly how you explained it. I got all the way to pulling the compressor out, but it just won't come free, seems like the motor on a freestyle sits a lot closer to the front cooling fan frame. the stud bolts seem to dam big. Like I said the compressor just wouldn't come free for me, is there a bracket that holds the stud bolts in That I can remove?
I replaced the control valve about two years ago. Saved a ton of cash!! Now the compressor is bad and I am set to replace the unit. Every part store says I have to have an expansion valve instead of the orifice tube I replaced with original part. What's the deal with this? Ford hasn't used expansion valves in ages. Is this a change to repair a bad design? Will I need to replace all the lines or make any major modifications to accommodate this change? Somebody please let me know.
robert rogers The do use expansion valves it should only be changed if the compressor failed internally same with the lines they should be removed and cleaned if compressor failed internally.
I never looked for it before. Sure enough it's tucked into the firewall. Glad I read the post. Was taught old school about changing the drier and orifice tube on opening the system. Verified your statement and now it's save me around $80. Thanks. Great video btw.
Great video, i was getting hot air and checked compressor and it was out so I had a shop put in a new A/C compressor with clutch, accumulator receiver drier desiccant expansion device o-ring seal kit. the air did change to cold but not COLD like you would expect from installing what i listed plus the cold air is ony coming from the middle vent closest to the driver so not both middle vents. any advice on what it could be? would really appreciate any advice at this point.
@@CreatingExcellence I took ot back to the shop and from what i remember they did some adjustments and cold air came out of other vents but it never went back to really cold air as you would expect after those new components.
Great video, more detailed then some other vehicle DIY's! Do you know if changing the rockers and pushrods on a ranger/explorer 4.0L ohv will get rid if the dreaded clicking there known for. Or is it the lifters? Just wanna know before I try and tare it apart Thanks!
The rattle you are talking about is either in the chain tensioners which are external and common enough or is coming from the timing cassettes themselves unless it is really bothering you I wouldn't worry about it they are a major pain to work on very hard to time etc...
not to over step ya dude, but kyle are you talking the over head valve or over head CAM? if it is 1998+ SOHC get tensioners replaced at the dealer, if the guide breaks have fun! i did my engine without any special tools but im a licence tech and had to remove the engine so i would do it with clear vision at the timing marks i made and the flat's on the rear of the drivers side cam to make sure it was level with the head when i torqued the bolt, that and the lovly torx 40 bolts for the rear guide that is behind the FUCKNG BELL HOUSING! anyways i can rant about that engine for a while... but man after new chains that engine works dam good nice and snappy!
its a 4.0L OHV, not the OHC. My brother is a HD mechanic and told me from the sound its the rockers/pushrods or the lifters, as ive read these are 95% the reason for the upper motor noise. but the only thing is id rather only have to oven the valve covers to swap the rocker arm assembly and rods then remove the heads as my truck has 197000kms id rather not take the chance of snapping bolts on the headers while removing them. when i start the truck it sounds quiet for 10-15 seconds aside from the fan, then the clicking just starts. same thing before and after and oil change so i know its not a low oil reason like most vehicles with the clicking. Appreciate the quick responses btw
kyle sundberg Well either way you must open up the valve covers to inspect and replace them so at that mileage I would look for a new set of both. You can pull valve covers and look for slop with engine off, then pull the lifter and check for sponginess they should be rock hard. Pretty simple but no I cannot identify exactly what is common on the OHV as they were before my time, but like I said they are pretty simple as in any OHV.
tengo una freestar 2004 tengo un problema en el acondicionado le pongo refrigerante si lo carga pero sube toda la presion como si no guiará en la tuberia
Ok so I made the plunge and decided to do the compressor myself. The only issue I'm having now is decided wether or not to replace the expansion valve. I ordered the compressor kit that came with new expansion valve, tube, dryer etc. I'm assuming the expansion valve is under the dash? :( is it recommended to replace it also? Thanks for your guidance, so stoked to have been able to do it myself!
If you have the expansion valve already I would change it yes. It is on the firewall in the engine compartment, nice and easy to get to. Take off the two lines going to it and then there is 2 T20 torx head screws that bolt it in the middle.
My AC has been kicking my butt for almost a year if I am sitting it doesn't blow cold like it should like at all but as soon as I drive it blows cold i all ready did the fill and in facted we took out the old and put in the new then I had to do the Ambient air temperature sensor because my temperature was stuck at 55 and now I have to fix a blend door actuator but I don't think that would stop the AC from blowing cold at idle. If anyone knows why my AC works when driving and not at a stop please let me know.
When I started my Ford 500 the other night, it suddenly bucked and misfired, then stalled. When I restarted, it wanted to stall again, until I turned off the A/C. Once I did that it ran fine. When I turned the A/C on again, as I was driving it kept running, but produced zero hot air. I had been hearing my compressor get a little noisy lately, but irt produced cold air, and now after this incident, very little sound, and only hot air. It looks like the belts are OK, so I assume the compressor is bad. I have a 2007 Ford 500 Limited, and this is the third compressor that has gone bad in 109,000 miles. My warranties covered the first three, but now I am out of warranty. If it needs a fourth compressor, how much should it cost to replace? Thanks for the video, as I understand just what is involved for a replacement. Scott
Msilverhammer I would inspect the compressor to see if it is actually acting up. What's more common is for the throttle body to fail on these causing this issue is your original?
FordTechMakuloco OK...I am going to head over to a place that has been around ro 15 years, and specializes in AC automotive.I have been there before, and they really seem to know what they are doing.Most people on Yelp give them 5 stars too.If it is the throttle body, then what would that fix entail?Remember, this is my third bad compressor!As I said, I was starting to hear a whine when accelerating, or whenever the ac was on.When I turned it off, it would be perfectly quiet.There is only hot air, and very little sound increase now, when switching on the ac.Thanks!
keyron Campbell Thanks...but I had it replaced for $375.00 total. Rebuilt compressor, and labor included, with one year warranty. This place has been working in this area for over 20 years, and they rebuild their own compressors. autoacservice.com/ Thanks
I have a 2005 ford freestyle with a CVT auto/transmission it completely died about a month ago it only has about140000miles on it the check engine light has been on since we brought it from car lot when it broke down a month ago it was slap out trans /fluid we acidently poured reg.red fluid in first but didn't drive but about 20miles then we drained it all out and put 10quarts vavolene CVT fluid in it and also done a oil change and filter our self but now my car will not even move in reverse at all and now when you first crank car it jumps forward while still in park and still will not go in reverse at all so we drained fluid again and this time there is some kind of pin that was in my transmission pan this little pin is about an1inch/1/half and a little bigger around than the size of a pencil lead what is that and why is it flowing around in my fluid the lady from service at the ford dealership when called said its OK that it is suppose to be there by the plug because that's how they service them at the shop and my wrench light is still on my tire traction control light is on and so is check engine light so my etc light was not on till about 7days ago it was just my Cheng.light and transmission light and check engine light has been on since we brought the car from lot and we just brought the car in march21st.this year when brought the car as is with no warranty it made a little bit of a noise when quit driving right the noise got louder and now there's no noise at all you barely hear car running you would think car stalled out and died it is so quite. What is wrong and can u show us a video how to fix it and is my CVT transmission screwed up and broke.or is there ways of fixing the problem quick and easy and very cheap I don't have $2700-$5000to replace my CVT transm.or a lot of money to put in shop or ford dealership I can't even get it to be tested because it will not drive and make it to part stores it only drives forward and only about a mile or two before it dies again and leaves you stuck and have to push it home in nuetral
How do i replace my ac compressor on a 06 Lincoln Zephyr I bought every thing and stumped on how too take it out the alternator is too close too the top bolt and a very tight sqeez
I have a question...I have a 2005 ford five hundred and my rear oxygen sensor wire harness completely melted...I brought the the new parts to fix but I don't kno how to color connect the wires...can anyone help thank you
We have a 2005 limited. The car cools on the highway but not in city stop and go traffic. I looked at your other video regarding scroll valve and went ahead and ordered it. I went to a Ford dealer in town and said it was not a valve and instead it was my compresser itself. He said it had a leak. My question is what would be your opinion on my next step? Should I just replace it or replace the valve
These are known for both concerns very common and the compressor leaks from the housing as shown in this video so yes the compressor replacement is the only option.
When I replace the compresser would it be wise to replace it with a motorcraft part or a different brand name seeing as so many problems with this compressser
FordTechMakuloco I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred Limited. Having a/c issues. blows cold driving, or rev the engine, blows warm @ idle. I checked the high side, (good pressure) low side shows over-charged even when you under charge it. If you rev the engine, low side drops from 75psi to about 35ish psi which is the proper amt of freon. Compresser, condenser, expanion valve, dryer, all replaced. I replaced both actuators as well. Vacumned out the system, down to 460microns and it held. Ive checked for any vacumn leaks or damper door issues, NONE. I've been reading, noticed on back of compresser, theres a metal plate, with 2 10mm bolts. That contains the scroll valve. That valve controls how much freon flows through & pressure as well. Is that the problem thats causing this? Also, when you buy a compresser, either reman or new, does it come with a new valve or do you have to use old valve from previous compresser? Im trying to replace but the bolts are super tight with very mininal space. Im trying to avold taking compresser out to do this simple job but no success yet. Any ideas?? Please help!!! My name is Christopher.
is this same compressor used on the 08-09 Taurus/Sable? I just bought an 09 Sable Premiere in Jan, and now that it's getting into the AC season, It just doesn't seem to be cooling off all that fast. still gets "cool" after a few miles, but i definitely wouldn't call it "ice cold"
Hoping you still comment on these older videos... I am told by a TON of people (mechanics/trusted friends) that if the compressor fails that I should replace the condenser and drier as well. What is your take on that?
if it fails internally yes and the lines should be cleaned with solvent and compressed air but these fail externally most times with oil and refrigerant leaks.
FordTechMakuloco thanks. I believe I have an internal failure because there are no leaks, the a/c is charged, the clutch is operating but making noise, and the pressure readings are inconsistent and erratic. Blowing hot air too. I own a 2004 F150 super crew and now working on the 2006 Ford Five Hundred for the father in law. Your videos have been an unbelievable help to me. Keep up the awesome work.
have you done the video on the valve you said gets stuck all the time? i think that might be my issue, i thought i was low on r134 but when i plugged ac pro on their gauge read really high so i didnt add any, took it in and the mechanic said it was high pressure so he replaced the expansion valve and that did not fix my problem, so he told me that the pressure was high, which i already knew and then told me i needed a new compressor... to my knowledge high pressure means the compressor is still doing its job or am i incorrect?
High pressure can be caused by a clogged condenser, fans not working, expansion valve, air in system, wrong charge level, or on this particular car the refrigerant control valve. Here is the video on it. Was the low side more like 70-80 psi instead of 25-35 psi? Quick Tips: #8 Ford Five Hundred Freestyle Poor A/C Performance Fix
FordTechMakuloco thank you very much i also isolated the clicking sound under my dash thanks to your other video involving the taurus. ive been sifting through videos on youtube for help on my particular vehicle and you seem to have every video so far that i need to make my car safe and at top performance!
FordTechMakuloco thanks man I have to install one in freestyle tomorrow I was just wondering if they come pre lubed I never worked on fords before just subies and gm stuff
The bottom bolts come out with an extension and a swivel. There is a plastic shield under there you need to remove and then they are free to get to. If you are talking the studs I used a METRIC stud remover set from OTC.
My brother has a bad compressor in his 05 Ford five hundred. Is it ok to replace the compressor then take it to the shop to have it evacuated and filled with freon since I don't have those tools on hand?
This is an outstanding video, but there’s a very important step missing. Before you even think about loosening a bolt on that compressor, slip some thick cardboard in the holes left after the fan is removed. I found out the hard way the radiator is made of an aluminum alloy that has material properties not so dissimilar from paper mache. My compressor was very oily, and it slipped out of my hand, into the radiator, and the job immediately went up by $175😢
Just got my first 500 ac job today only i'm doing the dryer also. your video made it go so much smoother. thanks a million for making this video.
I just replaced mine using your video. Thanks. I appreciate the information. Took me 6 hours. Always nice to add tools to my collection. Stud removal sockets worked perfect.
Thank you! I replaced the A/C compressor and drier on my 2005 Montego, and this video saved me a lot of time.
I removed the drier from under the car. By removing the windshield washer tank screws and setting it off to the side, I had just enough room to secure the tube to the top of the drier.
If you are thinking about taking on this task, it took me about 12 hours all together, and the drier was about 2.5 hours of the total effort. I had two estimates for $1300, and it cost me about $400 for parts including manifold gauges (Harbor Freight), vacuum pump (Amazon), R134A (Amazon), and getting the system professionally evacuated before I started.
Your video was a huge help. I had the compressor replaced last year by a Ford mechanic. It failed last month. It was not under warranty any more, of course. I was not willing to fork out another chuck of cash for Ford to do it again. I saved a huge amount doing it myself. Was done on a 2005 Freestyle. What is different on the 2005 Freestyle is a shield over the compressor pulley that was not in your video. I had to figure out how to get it off. I found out the mechanic put the bolts and studs in the wrong places making removal a problem. I reinstalled the bolts and studs in the correct positions making re installation a lot easier. I had to remove the left front wheel well shield completely to make changing the receiver/dryer much easier. Over all your video was awesome! Thanks for the "help".
Brian you are a life saver! Thank you for this video. My girlfriend just inherited a Montego from her mom with only 89,000 miles and the car is mint so she’s just going to drive it. The AC compressor has the oil all over the bottom of it and that frame part you showed. I’ll be tackling this project in the next couple months. Thank you for this video, it’s going to save me a ton of time and frustration.
Very helpful video and answers to publics questions. I replaced the compressor today with very little problems such as a couple of electrical connectors difficult to unclip, timing belt issues. I found that the two studs on the compressor can be removed with a 5mm socket. Harbor freight sells a serpentine belt tool that works well from the top. When reinstalling the belt I took all the tension off with the long handle tool from HF and tied it all the way back with a piece of light rope, then it was just a matter of reaching up from the bottom to align the belt before untying the rope and easing the handle back. Visually check that the belt is in the proper grooves on all the pulleys. Put two and a 1/4 cans of freon in and everything is working well so far. Bought a $99. dollar AC vacumn pump at HF with 20% additional 20% off that worked well. My system was working so so but didn't cool enough at idle, tried the valve replacement trick but didn't work so system wasn't dirty and all I replaced was the compressor only. Thanks again for the great video.
I tired putting in a new scroll valve, and also tried the trick of installing the valve/spring in reverse order - but still no cold air at idle. I am thinking I need a new compressor - but I am wondering what you meant when you said "system wasnt dirty". I saw a dry, powdery dark colored substance on the original scroll valve, and I saw a greyish, oily substance on the new scroll valve when I took it back out to revers install it. Would that indicate a "dirty system"? If so, what else should I do?
dude you are my hero....there is barely any info on these cars
Do the ford 500 have alot of AC problems?....Mine is acting up
@@nathanielmorton659 not really
Great video guys super helpful! I just found out today that my compressor is leaking oil and refrigerant.. I own a 05 ford five hundred. Had it for 3 years. Now it hasn't had a/c for about a year.. So I decided to look and I saw exactly what this video showed! Love it! Also would love to learn more keep it up!
You seem awefully happy for someone that is about to have a very expensive repair.
FordTechMakuloco lol it will be around $500 and that is cool with me. I got a quote for $2,700... Yup.
this is still relevant. I just bought a 2005 Ford Five Hundred and a/c is fubar. thanks for the video!
Thanks for the great video! Follow this I replaced the compressor on a Ford Freestyle that is a wagon version of Five Hundred. I do noticed something that maybe helpful to share：
1. The two studs do not need stud remover tool. It has a 5mm hexagon head and can be loosen with a 1/4 wrench with the right joint and extension bar. The top stud is a little tricky as it is quite close to the frame on front. just loosen it with ratchet wrench then change to an adjustable wrench to retract it all the way. If only use the ratchet wrench it will be blocked by the fan rest hook on the front frame, and locked there, very embarrass and I had to snip off the extended tiny flat end of the fan rest. Not function problem though. :(
2. To snap on to the belt tensioner, a 3/8" break bar is still too big for me. I had to buy a separate long 3/8 ratchet wrench, and use pry bar to help snap the head on to the square box on the tensioner. This long ratchet wrench better be as long as possible, and flat as possible, and should not have a click-to-release or quick release head. I bought a 14" long one and the length is good and handy. Does not need to be longer. But mine has a flex head unfortunately. I had to use pry bar to press the head till snap on. For such long wrench maybe help with a pry bar is needed anyways.
3. When install the new compressor, I had hard time to lift it in place to put on the bolt. In the end, I used the serpentine belt to lift the the clutch/wheel end, and hang it on the top engine mount racket. So lucky it fits and the work is now much easier. I took this chance and replaced the serpentine belt also. The old one got no sign of damage or aging but it is 11 years old already.
Hope this helpful for you.
+shawn w great info that should help many. As for two studs the reason I call for the stud remover is in the salt belt of the USA here the studs corrode in enough that the tiny tip will just round over every time you try to remove them.
99o9
Thank you fir the video. All your videos are AWESOME and detail.
I do have a question. As you already know, this car has a very similar engine and ac system as Ford Freestyle(ours is 2007 ford Freestyle Limited with "DUAL AIR"). So FYI, we replaced the compressor(3 times with NEW ones not refurbished), NEW condenser, NEW dryer, NEW Radiator Fan, NEW expansion valve(3 times), even changed the Scroll valve(control valve) once, checked ALL AC related connectors and wires under the hood too(didn't check or replaced the AC replay tho)...the ONLY thing we haven't changed is the "Evaporator". But the AC still NOT working. When stopped, AC is blowing warm/hot air(ambient temperature), when moving at higher speed it slightly cools down about 60~70 degrees on the freeway....we also had it Professionally charged (and discharged) with proper amt of oil and refrigerant few times. Still does not work right.
1. Do you have any idea as to what might be the problem, and/or did we miss something?
2. Could it be the evaporator or evaporators (not sure if it has 1 or 2 evaporators since it has DUAL AIR system) causing the problem?
3. If it has 2 evaporators, where is the rear evaporator located or could it be the problem? (not really sure how this DUAL AIR system is designed and operates if you can make a video on that I greatly appreciate)
ANY info as to what it might be, would be awesome.🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thank you for this video. It took me a day and a half (I did the condenser too, vacuumed the system and recharged it) and it was really freakin hard! But, nothing beats the sense of accomplishment of bringing ice cold air back to my 11 year old car for me, my wife and kid to enjoy just in time for the summer.
One item I found that should be changed. Do not ever open a system while under a vacuum. It will draw atmospheric moisture into the system. Only open the system while under a small pressure. Either have 1 PSi of refrigerant in the system or put nitrogen into it before opening. 1PSI of refrigerant is legal as it is called deminis according to EPA. Very nice job of explaining the change process.
A very informative video. Replaced the leaky compressor on my 05 Montego last week. Now back to having ice cold air conditioning. Car has less than 50,000 miles on it and the AC has not been working since at least winter 2012 or spring 2013. Unforgivable!
Dude that is the exact car I have, so glad I found this. New Sub for sure! Thank you 🙏🏻
Swapped my compressor on 07 Freestyle in about 2 hours. Very helpful guide. Recharging today. Compressor was leaking.
You are the Best Tech On YT
Hi. I have a 2005 500. Had both the compressor and condenser replaced with brand new parts. Had system recharged several times. All lines high and low have no kinks or cracks. My AC will not blow cold for longer than 10 mins after charging. This has gone on for 2 yrs. Have it charged/checked same results. No one can find the problem. You're the best mechanic I've seen when it comes to Ford vehicles. Any idea what the problem is? Or any suggestions I can give my mechanic here on how to fix it? Your help is greatly appreciated. Please help me, its sweltering in Atlanta right now.
Did you ever find a solution to your issue?
Thank you so much for all the videos. Very helpful and well done. I have been troubleshooting intermittent ac. I replaced the scroll valve only to find out the solenoid in the compressor has gone bad. Off to replace the compressor tonight. Wish me luck :)
Jeremy Carlson I got the compressor removed last night nice and easy thanks to this video. I found the studs take a 5mm socket so I didn't have to buy a stud removal set. Also, I was worried that I may not have the proper tool extensions to complete the removal as used in the video but I was able to get in there with my wrench easy enough.
Hey buddy how's it going just want to congratulate you on your videos they have great information I have a AC compressor problem on my 2012 Ford fusion I tested true power to the compressor to see if the clutch would engage it did not engage so I took it to the ac shop and they told me it was the AC compressor that need to be changed out after troubleshooting and reading gauges I have a question do I need to replace the dryer and condenser or just the AC compressor and do a vacuum flush and recharge on it information will be greatly appreciate it thanks.
Christopher he has a video on that scroll valves situation. It's very helpful from what I remember you have to completely remove Freon before you replace because doing so will leak it right out and might get hurt
Correct you MUST evac system first.
Very professional video! Thanks for sharing your time and expertise. God bless!
Super important to put something there to cover the radiator, I just hit a hole on it with the compressor :(
+Csaba Kecskemeti Yes it is very tight.
I used tape and a cardboard box worked good for me I have accidents like that all the time
did this today and it went very well. thanks for the post help me out a lot.
Great video on replacing compressor . I have a 2007 Montego the compressor stopped working .. The 10 amp fuse was blown I replaced it and it popped again .. Could it be the coil in the compressor .?
Love the music in the background!!
Thanks for the video, that's super useful.
Are you suggesting a new aftermarket compressor or a remanufactured one?
I would go new aftermarket
Hello. I'm in the middle of a compressor replacement on my 06 five hundred. I have the bolts out of the compressor but the studs are too long where as my compressor hits against the frame before it reaches the end of them. I didn't notice you have a problem In this video. Can you share some insight. Thanks awesome video!
You must pull all the studs out too.
Thank you!
If you use a 5 mm the studs will come right out👍
Hi excellent DIY! I noticed my new compressor does not have the dowel (threaded insert) in the front holes. Do these transfer once I get the old one out or do I have the wrong compressor for my 05 Five Hundred? 6/05 build date.
How come you didn’t replace the drier accumulator? I thought after replacing the ac compressor you had to replace the drier and the ac condenser.
More of a "should" than a "have to" situation.
Thanks for video what does it mean if the compressor clutch doesn't engage?
Great video! Thank you for posting.
Any ideas? I went to a local junkyard and tried to get the compressor off an 07 Five Hundred to save some cash and get some experience taking it off so I'd have some experience when I try to do it on my own car.
Only thing is that I couldn't get the compressor out of the car. The studs on the passenger side of the compressor made it so that I couldn't actually remove the compressor from the car. When I tried to remove it, the compressor pulley would hit the frame of the car and I could go no further. Have you encountered this?
+bigbob1122 You will need to use a stud remover to get them out and going back in also, this is the one that I use here- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K1KHB6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000K1KHB6&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=NEHFCQ4EU542DMOI
Hello, I have a 2006 Ford Freestyle. My car too started doing the same thing where the air conditioning didn't work at idle and a little cooler on the freeway. I took it into the mechanic today and asked them to replace the expansion valve. Since I have dual air, they replaced two expansion valves and added in freon, etc., to the tune of $568. Well, unfortunately, it just made it slightly cooler while moving the car but not on idle. They recommend replacing the compressor. I'm beginning to wonder if it should be the seal that is replaced instead. Not sure what to do next.
yea it does run good no codes that came up on the orange machine my friend hook up it does suck up gas it the brakes and especially the back brakes seem to run down prematurely and having problems with the ac
Your video how to change A/C compressor on a 2007 Montego was great. I have the same problem. Also only cool air comes out of driver side vent & warm air comes out of passenger side vent. What is causing this? Will this correct itself when the compressor is replaced?
Handyman Dan Yes it should, on these if the refrigerant is low it will cool more on one side than the other in dual climate systems.
Great video. One quick question though. My Ford 500 jerks at high speeds and when I'm braking. Smells like burning rubber when I go uphill. I was told its got to be the clutch. Then I realized the AC compressor has a direct relationship with the clutch (and by the way it blows hot air). So do these two have a direct relationship? Does a compressor come with a clutch or I need to buy that separately? The uphill struggles though are my major worry. What actually causes the vehicle to stall while climbing? Please help. Thanks
These have many problems with the ETC system more than anything else but while that is in being diagnosed misfires should be monitored along with mode 6 data for past misfires.
When you accessed the low pressure port. How did you get the VMV loose from the bracket to move it out of the way to make more room? I tugged and pulled with no avail. I can see a tab on the back side of the bracket but couldn't figure out how the bracket works.
I just reach down in there no need to pull vmv. If you need to pull vmv depress the tab you saw all the way and wiggle it off towards the firewall. You have to really man handle it.
I have a 2005 freestyle and just put a new ac compresser on it and it blows cool air but not cold cold air but after it sits at idle for a bit it starts to blow hot what you think it is
My compressor compressor froze up do I need to flush system change out dryer filter and expansion valve? I didn't see any videos on that?
I have one on an 05 that the clutch won't kick in nor the fan. You made mention that the AC clutch will engage and fan will start. Where would I look at wiring. I have 5 volts at pressure switch on compressor and ground. No voltage at plug of compressor when engaged. I have no access to schematics
Liked and saved to favorites ! My only regret Brian, is that I don't live close to your shop. Was this a new dealer purchased replaced ac compressor or aftermarket ? Thank you so much, John
Dude first 5 min kudos to you for getting that done. Over all good video but I think for us slow learners a bit out of our league, I think ill let a mechanic do it :-)... Could you do a step by step changing breaks for the five hundred, haven't found a good video out there, thanks
DLD CONSTRUCTION FRAMING They are fairly simple if I ever run across them again I will do a video for sure.
Great video detail of the AC compressor replacement. I have an 05 Freestyle. The AC has been inoperative for more than a year. I was told at a local repair shop that the entire system would need to be replaced...lines included (apparently, there could be trash in the lines that could damage the new compressor). I'd like to make this a DIY repair and replace all the major AC system components, then take it to have the system evacuated and charged. Does the local repair shop's replacement of lines sound reasonable?
You can flush the lines off car very easy, I would verify the compressor actually grenade.
Thanks for the response. Do you know of any videos that demonstrate how to properly flush the AC lines?
While they are off just spray brake clean through them and blow them dry they are large enough to be cleaned that way.
I have a 2005 Ford 500 and replace the scroll valve and put 1 can of freon in it and it's in the red with 1 can in it and still no cold air. I'm not sure what to do? Do u think I need a new AC compressor?
I have an 05 Ford 500 and I don't know if the fans are working but it's no longer blowing that cold unless I'm driving down the highway what do you think my problem is the fans the compressor itself which I no longer think it is the compressor it's fully charged I know for sure
My 2007 Freestyle's ac quit working and I have replaced 2 serpentine belts within 3 days as the compressor appears to be frozen now. Will it hurt to drive it to a garage without the serpentine belt? I know it will steer really bad, but I think I can muscle it there. The garage is about 15 miles away. Thanks
Is there some other way to access the oil pressure sending unit other than the process of removing the air compressor which you demonstrated here? As you know the sending unit is mounted in the block right behind the air compressor mounting bracket! I can't figure out a way to access the switch other than removing the cooling fan panel and the air compressor. I guess it wouldn't be necessary to disconnect all the lines to the compressor, still a big job to replace a $9.00 part. Oh well. Any ideas???
Excellent job on your videos by the way. Thanks for all your help.
Nope you must position the a/c compressor aside but you can leave the refrigerant hoses connected.
Do you have to change the drier out when changing the compressor
this may sound stupid but if im doing this at home.. how do i go about putting a vacuum on the system or is this something i should take to the shop and have them do? i was quoted at almost 900 dollars, but found all the parts i need for 200 so i wanted to try myself.
really good video, wonder if you know any performance parts and where to get them, here in US, i want to make it a "sleeper"
Multi350z No I don't get into the aftermarket stuff sorry.
Very nice video. Do you have to replace any other parts when replacing the compressor or do you just flush the condensor and lines. I was told by a shop that the entire A/C system had to be replaced, condensor, dryer, all hoses, etc., when the A/C compressor went bad and possibly put debris into the system.
Cant really flush newer condensers, if they get contaminated they have to be replaced. If you're just replacing the compressor, take a look at the oil inside of it when you pull it out. If it is clean/clear, then the system is most likely not contaminated. In this case you could get away just fine with replacing the compressor and dryer. If the compressor failed and the oil looks dirty/brown/black, then you'll need to replace the condenser, TXV, and hoses as well.
Thanks. I appreciate the info. It helps me greatly.
I've got an 06 Five Hundred and getting my second compressor in under a year. Good thing I'm not doing this. It seems to be a real pain to do
Great Video! I am now more mentally prepared to tackle this pain in the A$$ looking job! LOL I been dreading to pull that compressor
Any advice on removing the compressor from a 2005 ford expedition limited? We are struggling with this right now .
pull lines first then the bolts from down below, slide forward up and out.
Thank you so much for this information. You saved me thousands!
I wish you can do mine you make look some what easy it's hot here where I live 102 hot hot hot thanks for the video
I’ll fix it for you :D
How much should this repair cost? I am in Arizona and want to know if it is worth putting more money into it or just trying to dump the car for something else. I made it through 1 summer here, not really looking forward to another.
Very helpful video, thanks.
I swear, Brian got to have a pet bug with a camera strapped to his head because of some of these great camera angles he gets in his videos..lol
I followed your video exactly how you explained it. I got all the way to pulling the compressor out, but it just won't come free, seems like the motor on a freestyle sits a lot closer to the front cooling fan frame. the stud bolts seem to dam big. Like I said the compressor just wouldn't come free for me, is there a bracket that holds the stud bolts in That I can remove?
btw thanks for the video, very informative but didn't work for me lol
INCREDIBLY HELPFUL.......MUCH appreciated.........
Do i absolutely need to stud out because the end of mine is wanting to strip
I replaced the control valve about two years ago. Saved a ton of cash!! Now the compressor is bad and I am set to replace the unit. Every part store says I have to have an expansion valve instead of the orifice tube I replaced with original part. What's the deal with this? Ford hasn't used expansion valves in ages. Is this a change to repair a bad design? Will I need to replace all the lines or make any major modifications to accommodate this change? Somebody please let me know.
robert rogers The do use expansion valves it should only be changed if the compressor failed internally same with the lines they should be removed and cleaned if compressor failed internally.
I never looked for it before. Sure enough it's tucked into the firewall. Glad I read the post. Was taught old school about changing the drier and orifice tube on opening the system. Verified your statement and now it's save me around $80. Thanks. Great video btw.
How do you know if the compressor failed internally? Mine is totally locked up and can't be turned by hand. Is that a sign of internal failure?
thank you for this video. you saved me $1200.00.
Great video, i was getting hot air and checked compressor and it was out so I had a shop put in a new A/C compressor with clutch, accumulator receiver drier desiccant expansion device o-ring seal kit. the air did change to cold but not COLD like you would expect from installing what i listed plus the cold air is ony coming from the middle vent closest to the driver so not both middle vents. any advice on what it could be? would really appreciate any advice at this point.
Did you ever find a solution to your issue?
@@CreatingExcellence I took ot back to the shop and from what i remember they did some adjustments and cold air came out of other vents but it never went back to really cold air as you would expect after those new components.
Great video, more detailed then some other vehicle DIY's! Do you know if changing the rockers and pushrods on a ranger/explorer 4.0L ohv will get rid if the dreaded clicking there known for. Or is it the lifters? Just wanna know before I try and tare it apart
Thanks!
The rattle you are talking about is either in the chain tensioners which are external and common enough or is coming from the timing cassettes themselves unless it is really bothering you I wouldn't worry about it they are a major pain to work on very hard to time etc...
not to over step ya dude, but kyle are you talking the over head valve or over head CAM? if it is 1998+ SOHC get tensioners replaced at the dealer, if the guide breaks have fun! i did my engine without any special tools but im a licence tech and had to remove the engine so i would do it with clear vision at the timing marks i made and the flat's on the rear of the drivers side cam to make sure it was level with the head when i torqued the bolt, that and the lovly torx 40 bolts for the rear guide that is behind the FUCKNG BELL HOUSING!
anyways i can rant about that engine for a while... but man after new chains that engine works dam good nice and snappy!
its a 4.0L OHV, not the OHC. My brother is a HD mechanic and told me from the sound its the rockers/pushrods or the lifters, as ive read these are 95% the reason for the upper motor noise. but the only thing is id rather only have to oven the valve covers to swap the rocker arm assembly and rods then remove the heads as my truck has 197000kms id rather not take the chance of snapping bolts on the headers while removing them. when i start the truck it sounds quiet for 10-15 seconds aside from the fan, then the clicking just starts. same thing before and after and oil change so i know its not a low oil reason like most vehicles with the clicking. Appreciate the quick responses btw
id like it dealt with sooner not later in case you ask why my brother doesnt do anything about it lol always to busy
kyle sundberg Well either way you must open up the valve covers to inspect and replace them so at that mileage I would look for a new set of both. You can pull valve covers and look for slop with engine off, then pull the lifter and check for sponginess they should be rock hard. Pretty simple but no I cannot identify exactly what is common on the OHV as they were before my time, but like I said they are pretty simple as in any OHV.
tengo una freestar 2004 tengo un problema en el acondicionado le pongo refrigerante si lo carga pero sube toda la presion como si no guiará en la tuberia
Thank you so much for doing this video. HUGE help!!
What’s the average price range to replace a ac Compressor I was quoted $1700 for parts and labor  2005 FORD FIVE HUNDRED
Ok so I made the plunge and decided to do the compressor myself. The only issue I'm having now is decided wether or not to replace the expansion valve. I ordered the compressor kit that came with new expansion valve, tube, dryer etc. I'm assuming the expansion valve is under the dash? :( is it recommended to replace it also?
Thanks for your guidance, so stoked to have been able to do it myself!
If you have the expansion valve already I would change it yes. It is on the firewall in the engine compartment, nice and easy to get to. Take off the two lines going to it and then there is 2 T20 torx head screws that bolt it in the middle.
All that will come together when you buy it new off ebay... You don't have too.
Do any know a channel where I can see how to replace 2005 ford 500 spark plugs
My AC has been kicking my butt for almost a year if I am sitting it doesn't blow cold like it should like at all but as soon as I drive it blows cold i all ready did the fill and in facted we took out the old and put in the new then I had to do the Ambient air temperature sensor because my temperature was stuck at 55 and now I have to fix a blend door actuator but I don't think that would stop the AC from blowing cold at idle.
If anyone knows why my AC works when driving and not at a stop please let me know.
When I started my Ford 500 the other night, it suddenly bucked and misfired, then stalled.
When I restarted, it wanted to stall again, until I turned off the A/C.
Once I did that it ran fine.
When I turned the A/C on again, as I was driving it kept running, but produced zero hot air.
I had been hearing my compressor get a little noisy lately, but irt produced cold air, and now after this incident, very little sound, and only hot air.
It looks like the belts are OK, so I assume the compressor is bad.
I have a 2007 Ford 500 Limited, and this is the third compressor that has gone bad in 109,000 miles.
My warranties covered the first three, but now I am out of warranty.
If it needs a fourth compressor, how much should it cost to replace?
Thanks for the video, as I understand just what is involved for a replacement.
Scott
Msilverhammer I would inspect the compressor to see if it is actually acting up. What's more common is for the throttle body to fail on these causing this issue is your original?
FordTechMakuloco OK...I am going to head over to a place that has been around ro 15 years, and specializes in AC automotive.I have been there before, and they really seem to know what they are doing.Most people on Yelp give them 5 stars too.If it is the throttle body, then what would that fix entail?Remember, this is my third bad compressor!As I said, I was starting to hear a whine when accelerating, or whenever the ac was on.When I turned it off, it would be perfectly quiet.There is only hot air, and very little sound increase now, when switching on the ac.Thanks!
Buy it online... Ebay for 200... And labor $400
keyron Campbell Thanks...but I had it replaced for $375.00 total.
Rebuilt compressor, and labor included, with one year warranty.
This place has been working in this area for over 20 years, and they rebuild their own compressors.
autoacservice.com/
Thanks
I have a 2005 ford freestyle with a CVT auto/transmission it completely died about a month ago it only has about140000miles on it the check engine light has been on since we brought it from car lot when it broke down a month ago it was slap out trans /fluid we acidently poured reg.red fluid in first but didn't drive but about 20miles then we drained it all out and put 10quarts vavolene CVT fluid in it and also done a oil change and filter our self but now my car will not even move in reverse at all and now when you first crank car it jumps forward while still in park and still will not go in reverse at all so we drained fluid again and this time there is some kind of pin that was in my transmission pan this little pin is about an1inch/1/half and a little bigger around than the size of a pencil lead what is that and why is it flowing around in my fluid the lady from service at the ford dealership when called said its OK that it is suppose to be there by the plug because that's how they service them at the shop and my wrench light is still on my tire traction control light is on and so is check engine light so my etc light was not on till about 7days ago it was just my Cheng.light and transmission light and check engine light has been on since we brought the car from lot and we just brought the car in march21st.this year when brought the car as is with no warranty it made a little bit of a noise when quit driving right the noise got louder and now there's no noise at all you barely hear car running you would think car stalled out and died it is so quite. What is wrong and can u show us a video how to fix it and is my CVT transmission screwed up and broke.or is there ways of fixing the problem quick and easy and very cheap I don't have $2700-$5000to replace my CVT transm.or a lot of money to put in shop or ford dealership I can't even get it to be tested because it will not drive and make it to part stores it only drives forward and only about a mile or two before it dies again and leaves you stuck and have to push it home in nuetral
how would you know if a compressor control valve is bad on a sportage 2014
How do i replace my ac compressor on a 06 Lincoln Zephyr I bought every thing and stumped on how too take it out the alternator is too close too the top bolt and a very tight sqeez
I have a question...I have a 2005 ford five hundred and my rear oxygen sensor wire harness completely melted...I brought the the new parts to fix but I don't kno how to color connect the wires...can anyone help thank you
We have a 2005 limited. The car cools on the highway but not in city stop and go traffic. I looked at your other video regarding scroll valve and went ahead and ordered it. I went to a Ford dealer in town and said it was not a valve and instead it was my compresser itself. He said it had a leak. My question is what would be your opinion on my next step? Should I just replace it or replace the valve
These are known for both concerns very common and the compressor leaks from the housing as shown in this video so yes the compressor replacement is the only option.
When I replace the compresser would it be wise to replace it with a motorcraft part or a different brand name seeing as so many problems with this compressser
They are almost all Ford cores so. I would go aftermarket just because the Ford one is like $895.
FordTechMakuloco I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred Limited. Having a/c issues. blows cold driving, or rev the engine, blows warm @ idle. I checked the high side, (good pressure) low side shows over-charged even when you under charge it. If you rev the engine, low side drops from 75psi to about 35ish psi which is the proper amt of freon. Compresser, condenser, expanion valve, dryer, all replaced. I replaced both actuators as well. Vacumned out the system, down to 460microns and it held. Ive checked for any vacumn leaks or damper door issues, NONE. I've been reading, noticed on back of compresser, theres a metal plate, with 2 10mm bolts. That contains the scroll valve. That valve controls how much freon flows through & pressure as well. Is that the problem thats causing this? Also, when you buy a compresser, either reman or new, does it come with a new valve or do you have to use old valve from previous compresser? Im trying to replace but the bolts are super tight with very mininal space. Im trying to avold taking compresser out to do this simple job but no success yet. Any ideas?? Please help!!! My name is Christopher.
Christopher Michael Yes it is your valve follow the link for replacement watch carfully, I even give you a link for the part. EVAC SYSTEM FIRST!!
would i want to go somewhere to do a reflash to the pcm or ecm
Since that's the montego would it be the same for the ford 500 cause everything looks exactly the same as the 500 thank you
yes
is this same compressor used on the 08-09 Taurus/Sable?
I just bought an 09 Sable Premiere in Jan, and now that it's getting into the AC season, It just doesn't seem to be cooling off all that fast. still gets "cool" after a few miles, but i definitely wouldn't call it "ice cold"
No yours is different, first thing to check is the refrigerant charge level.
@FordTechMakuloco how long does this job take?
You are a freaking SUPERHERO!!
Your Good .same step with freestyle 05 My Compressor making noise when on, still blow cool air ,ford want to replace at the cost of 1300,00$
Hpw long does this job take
Hoping you still comment on these older videos... I am told by a TON of people (mechanics/trusted friends) that if the compressor fails that I should replace the condenser and drier as well. What is your take on that?
if it fails internally yes and the lines should be cleaned with solvent and compressed air but these fail externally most times with oil and refrigerant leaks.
FordTechMakuloco thanks. I believe I have an internal failure because there are no leaks, the a/c is charged, the clutch is operating but making noise, and the pressure readings are inconsistent and erratic. Blowing hot air too.
I own a 2004 F150 super crew and now working on the 2006 Ford Five Hundred for the father in law. Your videos have been an unbelievable help to me. Keep up the awesome work.
How many hours to replace the compressor
have you done the video on the valve you said gets stuck all the time? i think that might be my issue, i thought i was low on r134 but when i plugged ac pro on their gauge read really high so i didnt add any, took it in and the mechanic said it was high pressure so he replaced the expansion valve and that did not fix my problem, so he told me that the pressure was high, which i already knew and then told me i needed a new compressor... to my knowledge high pressure means the compressor is still doing its job or am i incorrect?
High pressure can be caused by a clogged condenser, fans not working, expansion valve, air in system, wrong charge level, or on this particular car the refrigerant control valve. Here is the video on it. Was the low side more like 70-80 psi instead of 25-35 psi?
Quick Tips: #8 Ford Five Hundred Freestyle Poor A/C Performance Fix
FordTechMakuloco thank you very much i also isolated the clicking sound under my dash thanks to your other video involving the taurus. ive been sifting through videos on youtube for help on my particular vehicle and you seem to have every video so far that i need to make my car safe and at top performance!
Sweet good to hear!
Thanks for this video really help me out
and can you tell me if there is an update for the 2005 ford 500 to upgrade the cars cpm or ecm it seems to burn gas like butter melts in heat
No there is no updates for fuel economy. Does it run good?
Your vidio was great. However watched other and he changed out filter dryer and expansion valve. Also the condenser. My
Great video thanks for the AC info!
We're u located how much would you charge for this replacement ? Fords smoking rocks and quoted me 2,000!!!!
+jew chainz Chicagoland we can do aftermarket for around $800
Do oem ford compressor come pre lubed with pag oil ??
Some yes and it will say right on the compressor tag.
FordTechMakuloco thanks man I have to install one in freestyle tomorrow I was just wondering if they come pre lubed I never worked on fords before just subies and gm stuff
What a great video! THANKS!!!!
How did he get to the other two bolts?? I wish he wouldve showed that
The bottom bolts come out with an extension and a swivel. There is a plastic shield under there you need to remove and then they are free to get to. If you are talking the studs I used a METRIC stud remover set from OTC.
do i leave the spring out
Wow looks like I really should have replaced this when I did the radiator and condenser...
My brother has a bad compressor in his 05 Ford five hundred. Is it ok to replace the compressor then take it to the shop to have it evacuated and filled with freon since I don't have those tools on hand?
Yeah even with having them evac and recharge it will save you a bunch of money.
Thank you very much you have been very helpful!