I'm digging the new baler. Happy for you guys that it's working out. Also got a chuckle out of you and Brad busting your night raking / baling / net wrap cherries! Should have titled the video "Like A Virgin" but it would have come back as copywrite violation. Thanks for all the great videos lately!
Dude you have no idea when it comes to runaway bales. I look at the country you farm and I am so jealous. I am in Kentucky hill country. (The only ground I could afford) I litterly have to place every bale. Not complaining though spent 30 years in a factory to farm debt free.👍👍😁
You are a very good, interesting and easy to listen to presenter. Be well, with Blessings.... Silvano Traverso ( Maremma Man ) Gippsland farmer Via Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
👍👌🇨🇦❤, Jacob, when your bale is complete and wrapped, as you open the rear door, can you back up about 6 feet, eject the baler and then move forward that will allow the pick up to start in fresh and not jam up up or miss any hay
Great to see your baler working. I’d said the lumps of hay going in at once would help the shear bolts I think it’s catching on your drawbar pin. I wrap a plastic feed bag/sack around the draw bar and pin which helps the the crop flow better under the tractor. Another idea is maybe a crop press on the front of your tractor it will press the row down before it goes under the tractor and will help to put more into your bale to.
Get an old piece of round baler belt about a foot or two long, cut 45 degree "ears" off it on the front edge, and bolt it to the underside of the drawbar through the hammerstrap holes in the drawbar, using fender washers... the belt will flop up against the pin and allow hay to slide under the belt past the pin so it quits bunching under the pin. I've had that happen before and it really works. Had it get pulled into the PTO as well because of it and had to spend a few minutes with a knife cutting all the hay off the shaft. Belt under the drawbar stops all that. OL J R :)
You need to bolt together a couple of semi mud flaps and run it under the tractor and it will prevent the hay dragging on you're hitch. Great video though glad you are getting great use out of the new baler
I dropped an IH806 with a belly sickle mower onto its frame back in the day mowing gov't program ground while in a field that had earlier been reclaimed from a wooded area. The stumps had been bulldozed out but the holes had not been filled in.
I run the same old-timer NH Rolabar rake. After 3 or 4 greasy-hands field failures the same as this video shows, usually on beastly hot days, I took out the loose-fit clevis pin and drove in a factory-sized steel pin that ain't coming out. End of story. But my fields are not very far apart. The chain baler is great, even older than my NH 634.
Meh that driveline angle that looks SO bad when the rake is cranked up on that U-joint down by the tire, it doesn't hurt anything... so long as you're not pulling the rake behind a pickup at 45 mph (which you shouldn't do anyway because the wheels and bearings and stuff ain't made for that kind of speed!) which is why they make them removable, but if you're just pulling it down the road at tractor speed, I've never had a U-joint go bad on that yoke because of it... and I've pulled rakes 8-10 miles between jobs before many times. Later! OL J R : )
When replacing those shear bolts, make sure you get them very tight and also double nut them or use lock nuts because they will work loose. Those are great balers. Its making nice bales
My farm is in a valley by a major mountain, we had a whole bale trailer roll down the hill and across the street into a bean field one summer, and more than one roll away through a couple fields haha
Something u might want to try is roll backwards a bit when wrapping the bale so you don’t have to worry about moving forward and missing hay after spitting the bale out
When you stop to dump a round bale back up and if your on a hill back up and back the roller parallel to the hill and away from your windrows that way when you dump a roll it won’t roll any
I wound up an put case hardened sheer pins in mine had the exact same problem if I remember correctly I drilled a second hole they normally don’t have two on the pickup drive . Does that one have air bags for the density? Never saw one with net before that’s awesome
Check the pickup bearings the pickup should have its own slip clutch thing its not like a standard slip clutch but the pickups in new holland balers have enclosed bearings and when they go out the pickup likes to slip at random
At 13:35, your RH rake drive wheel wasn't driving, because the rake stopped in the RH turn. Only the LH wheel was driving the rake basket, and since that tire stopped in the sharp turn, so did the rake basket. Probably a bad dog spring or dog pin busted or fell out. Later! OL J R :)
We have very steep land where I bale. I forgot and opened the tailgate climbing a hill and last time i saw that bale it was screaming down and disappeared into the wood line. I never saw it again
Dad's Gehl has a belt drive on the pickup, so if it overloads the belt slips. We haven't broke many shearbolts on that baler at all. See your baler is pretty hungry and swallows big windrows with ease. Have you ever plugged the pickup on that baler(or your older round baler for that matter)
I have plugged it, but the wind guard comes off with a clip so all I have to do is put it off and slowly turn the pto on to suck it in. Never plugged the old one.
Yep that's been a problem with Vermeers forever... they don't like to feed or start bales if conditions aren't "perfect". I've done jobs for neighbors with my 40 year old Ford (Gehl) because the one guy called me after he was trying to bale dry ryegrass hay (ryegrass is VERY slick when over-dry) and it got so bad he was having to try 10-15 times before he could make a bale because it COULDN'T START A BALE! Just wad up and plug and he'd have to spit it out the back spread the lump and try again... I pulled in and did the whole job in about 2 hours, no problems! Old Vermeers like his had a "starter roll" with "starter flaps" (some sort of rubber flaps) that were probably worn and too floppy or not stiff enough. Newer Vermeers rely on hard rubber pickup tines to force feed hay in hard enough to get the bale started. When the tines inevitably get softer and the rubber loosens up or stretches, it won't start a bale in tough conditions. Read a LOT of guys on the Hay Talk forum griping about the cost of putting new tines in every other year just so the baler would start a bale. I like how stout the Vermeers are built, but I'm not a Vermeer fan because I've heard and seen too many stories of this sort and the next time I see "perfect conditions" in a hay field will probably the first LOL:) Ain't got time for persnickety balers! OL J R :)
The severe angle of the shaft when the basket is lifted will wear the universals out. Was lazy on second cut and didn't remove the shaft between fields, had a universal come apart.
@@boehmfarm4276 I've run them 8-10 miles down the road, so long as you running at tractor speeds not pickup speeds it's fine... I've NEVER hat that lower U-joint go out on a rake in 40 years of baling hay... It's not a problem. OL J R :)
Just think how bad it would be with bale ramps...without ramps its best to back of the windrow a few feet to drop bale...with ramps you dont need to bale rolls away far enough
When you hook up the bailer use a pin without a handle on it put it in from the bottom use whatever you have to make it Hang down as least as possible then put the clip in
Yeah and if something breaks the hair pin or clip you lose your baler down the hill. Would never put a pin in from the bottom. Just get the correct length pin.
@@leeroyexcavator9149 Exactly, or better yet just get a piece of old baler belting about a foot or two long, cut the corners off the front end of it at 45 degrees, and bolt it to the underside of the drawbar with a couple bolts and fender washers through the hammerstrap holes in the drawbar... works great and the belt flops up against the pin and the hay slides seamlessly under it. Problem solved! OL J R :)
@@boehmfarm4276 November in Texas... takes a lot longer to get dry though! Particularly if it's really juicy grass hay (like in a corn field after harvest) or really thick hay (like the fall bluestem I bale). Later! OL J R :)
That is one thing I hate about round bales, especially in the mountains around here- they roll away lol
Bales in the one spot is great when you collect them, thus why I loved slopey fields with round bales.
I'm digging the new baler. Happy for you guys that it's working out. Also got a chuckle out of you and Brad busting your night raking / baling / net wrap cherries! Should have titled the video "Like A Virgin" but it would have come back as copywrite violation. Thanks for all the great videos lately!
Haha
Another great video Jacob keep the content coming
Dude you have no idea when it comes to runaway bales. I look at the country you farm and I am so jealous. I am in Kentucky hill country. (The only ground I could afford) I litterly have to place every bale. Not complaining though spent 30 years in a factory to farm debt free.👍👍😁
I’m in KY too. Good thing I don’t have a bale kicker.....
Middle Tennessee we are on the top side or bottom of a hill at all times
I am on the east side of Ohio and if You roll bales down the hill like that, You will be going down in the woods to get them.
This is helpful because I may be baling with similar equipment next year for the first time. Thanks much!
You are a very good, interesting and easy to listen to presenter.
Be well, with Blessings....
Silvano Traverso ( Maremma Man )
Gippsland farmer
Via Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Very good information appreciate your time
Thanks for another fun farming adventure.Please make Brad clean that rear window!
👍👌🇨🇦❤, Jacob, when your bale is complete and wrapped, as you open the rear door, can you back up about 6 feet, eject the baler
and then move forward that will allow the pick up to start in fresh and not jam up up or miss any hay
Where in Canada do you live
@@robwoods5537 south prairies, on my dad's ranch
Jacob life is full of surprises specially with the new Holland😳
Brad, I was told of a round bale getting away severely damaging a cemetery. Bad day fo that farmer.
Great to see your baler working. I’d said the lumps of hay going in at once would help the shear bolts I think it’s catching on your drawbar pin. I wrap a plastic feed bag/sack around the draw bar and pin which helps the the crop flow better under the tractor. Another idea is maybe a crop press on the front of your tractor it will press the row down before it goes under the tractor and will help to put more into your bale to.
Get an old piece of round baler belt about a foot or two long, cut 45 degree "ears" off it on the front edge, and bolt it to the underside of the drawbar through the hammerstrap holes in the drawbar, using fender washers... the belt will flop up against the pin and allow hay to slide under the belt past the pin so it quits bunching under the pin. I've had that happen before and it really works. Had it get pulled into the PTO as well because of it and had to spend a few minutes with a knife cutting all the hay off the shaft. Belt under the drawbar stops all that. OL J R :)
You need to bolt together a couple of semi mud flaps and run it under the tractor and it will prevent the hay dragging on you're hitch. Great video though glad you are getting great use out of the new baler
Getting it done!! Glad to see things going well.
I dropped an IH806 with a belly sickle mower onto its frame back in the day mowing gov't program ground while in a field that had earlier been reclaimed from a wooded area. The stumps had been bulldozed out but the holes had not been filled in.
I run the same old-timer NH Rolabar rake. After 3 or 4 greasy-hands field failures the same as this video shows, usually on beastly hot days, I took out the loose-fit clevis pin and drove in a factory-sized steel pin that ain't coming out. End of story. But my fields are not very far apart. The chain baler is great, even older than my NH 634.
Meh that driveline angle that looks SO bad when the rake is cranked up on that U-joint down by the tire, it doesn't hurt anything... so long as you're not pulling the rake behind a pickup at 45 mph (which you shouldn't do anyway because the wheels and bearings and stuff ain't made for that kind of speed!) which is why they make them removable, but if you're just pulling it down the road at tractor speed, I've never had a U-joint go bad on that yoke because of it... and I've pulled rakes 8-10 miles between jobs before many times. Later! OL J R : )
We did a custom job this year ........ Cut ted rake bale.... fields were exceedingly rough.....$22,00 per bale
When replacing those shear bolts, make sure you get them very tight and also double nut them or use lock nuts because they will work loose. Those are great balers. Its making nice bales
Yep, they have lock nuts and I probably make them too tight.
Keep goin till you cant, thats what she said!
When you stop to wrap, just back up 10 feet.
Lmao it ain't a john deer baler
Yes haha still a cool baler
@@100percentlikeStalin yes it is ive never seen a chain one with net wrap before
Yes just back up no pressure on the pick up and n you gain not loss
Nice drone footage
Make you a runner flap to fasten to your draw bar that will slip under the hitch pin. That way you aren’t dragging up hay.
My farm is in a valley by a major mountain, we had a whole bale trailer roll down the hill and across the street into a bean field one summer, and more than one roll away through a couple fields haha
Nice!
Something u might want to try is roll backwards a bit when wrapping the bale so you don’t have to worry about moving forward and missing hay after spitting the bale out
Looks like a new "party light" on the dashboard of ol' Red. Is that something that will take hours and $$$ ? Lance Armstrong! HA! You are a funny guy!
Nope, that light has been going on and off for a while. Everything functions and pulls fine. I think it's a finicky ground wire.
1:39 that tree/ field looks like the one that u and Brad had welding helmets on looking at the sun
Yep, same field.
When you stop to dump a round bale back up and if your on a hill back up and back the roller parallel to the hill and away from your windrows that way when you dump a roll it won’t roll any
I wound up an put case hardened sheer pins in mine had the exact same problem if I remember correctly I drilled a second hole they normally don’t have two on the pickup drive . Does that one have air bags for the density? Never saw one with net before that’s awesome
Yep, air bags.
Looking good
Marvellous
Grade 8 bolts tractor supply by the pound the best way to go , I have the same problem
Put two new bolts in that puppy and tighten them down very tight. That should help a lot. There should be no play that is why the bolts are breaking.
Sure seems to make a tighter and cleaner bale then old baller always a few growing pans with a new unit
Check the pickup bearings the pickup should have its own slip clutch thing its not like a standard slip clutch but the pickups in new holland balers have enclosed bearings and when they go out the pickup likes to slip at random
I'll look into it.
At 13:35, your RH rake drive wheel wasn't driving, because the rake stopped in the RH turn. Only the LH wheel was driving the rake basket, and since that tire stopped in the sharp turn, so did the rake basket. Probably a bad dog spring or dog pin busted or fell out. Later! OL J R :)
Brad lifted that whole thing! Dang.
Yep you can do that sort of thing when you're young... but you pay for it later in life (ask me how I know) LOL:) Later! OL J R :)
l had nh 848 string tie was a good little baler
We have very steep land where I bale. I forgot and opened the tailgate climbing a hill and last time i saw that bale it was screaming down and disappeared into the wood line. I never saw it again
Haha, good work.
Dad's Gehl has a belt drive on the pickup, so if it overloads the belt slips. We haven't broke many shearbolts on that baler at all. See your baler is pretty hungry and swallows big windrows with ease. Have you ever plugged the pickup on that baler(or your older round baler for that matter)
I have plugged it, but the wind guard comes off with a clip so all I have to do is put it off and slowly turn the pto on to suck it in. Never plugged the old one.
Oh okay thanks just wondering
Haha we just got done with our hay for the season
Not sure why John Deere ads are shown on your videos definitely not me googling any Deere lol
Of course there is. ....
What’s the Red warning light on the Dash ? ECU OR ABS ?? 😂👍
Air bubble, maybe bad ground wire. Everything move and pulls fine. Sometimes the light goes out.
@@boehmfarm4276 bad ground wire Jacob
Hi try backing up a bit while wrapping 👍
that thing makes a nicer looking bale than new hollands new round balers
Fat windrows really help.
@@boehmfarm4276 are you going to sell the twine baler also hows the 2+2 doing
Might try to keep the old one for backup. 2+2 is waiting for finishing touches.
My Vermeer bailer is afraid of the dark ,when the sun goes behind the trees it is done, its going to plug .
Yep that's been a problem with Vermeers forever... they don't like to feed or start bales if conditions aren't "perfect". I've done jobs for neighbors with my 40 year old Ford (Gehl) because the one guy called me after he was trying to bale dry ryegrass hay (ryegrass is VERY slick when over-dry) and it got so bad he was having to try 10-15 times before he could make a bale because it COULDN'T START A BALE! Just wad up and plug and he'd have to spit it out the back spread the lump and try again... I pulled in and did the whole job in about 2 hours, no problems! Old Vermeers like his had a "starter roll" with "starter flaps" (some sort of rubber flaps) that were probably worn and too floppy or not stiff enough. Newer Vermeers rely on hard rubber pickup tines to force feed hay in hard enough to get the bale started. When the tines inevitably get softer and the rubber loosens up or stretches, it won't start a bale in tough conditions. Read a LOT of guys on the Hay Talk forum griping about the cost of putting new tines in every other year just so the baler would start a bale.
I like how stout the Vermeers are built, but I'm not a Vermeer fan because I've heard and seen too many stories of this sort and the next time I see "perfect conditions" in a hay field will probably the first LOL:) Ain't got time for persnickety balers! OL J R :)
0:21 was that a milk jug?
How big were the bales that you were bailing?
I was aiming for a solid 4x4.
That baler looks hungry.
It'll eat
@@boehmfarm4276 Jeupp.
Why do you take the shaft off the rake when you have a lever that disengages the gear box
The severe angle of the shaft when the basket is lifted will wear the universals out. Was lazy on second cut and didn't remove the shaft between fields, had a universal come apart.
@@boehmfarm4276 makes since , we’ve just always disengaged the gear box
@@boehmfarm4276 I've run them 8-10 miles down the road, so long as you running at tractor speeds not pickup speeds it's fine... I've NEVER hat that lower U-joint go out on a rake in 40 years of baling hay... It's not a problem. OL J R :)
How big of bales does the New Holland baler bale
It'll go up to 4x5
What are you doing with the bales
Feeding some and probably feeding someone el$es animals.
Cool thanks for the good videos
Its because they so much tighter and round they dont sqaut like the old ones
Just think how bad it would be with bale ramps...without ramps its best to back of the windrow a few feet to drop bale...with ramps you dont need to bale rolls away far enough
Man that tractor and baler look rough
Looking pretty don't pay the bills... getting the job done DOES! OL J R :)
keep on farming
👍👏👏👏
Looks like ya'll need a good cheep 8 wheel v-rake in front of yu
Thats what I was going to suggest. One is in my future.
@@scottviers3794 yea I got a hesston 12 wheel v-rake and I'll never go back to a roller bar rake
When you hook up the bailer use a pin without a handle on it put it in from the bottom use whatever you have to make it Hang down as least as possible then put the clip in
Yeah and if something breaks the hair pin or clip you lose your baler down the hill. Would never put a pin in from the bottom. Just get the correct length pin.
@@leeroyexcavator9149 Exactly, or better yet just get a piece of old baler belting about a foot or two long, cut the corners off the front end of it at 45 degrees, and bolt it to the underside of the drawbar with a couple bolts and fender washers through the hammerstrap holes in the drawbar... works great and the belt flops up against the pin and the hay slides seamlessly under it. Problem solved! OL J R :)
Jacob Twist Off the knob on the volume to the (I've Had) The Time of My Life
Would be good background music, but something with copyrights Next time
Where is the ant eater tractor lol
Waiting for finishing touches.
I've been interested how thats coming along...thats a big job
Bowling for john deere ,watch out for 7-10 split!,,,
lol
See you found a chain baler with net wrap. I hate net wrap. Would never own a net wrap baler if I could avoid it.
For storage outside, I'm now a believer in net wrap. Saves me the hassle of trying to get them tarped or in a barn.
IT is to late to make hay
It's only too late if you can't make it dry. I've done ok in mid October.
@@boehmfarm4276 November in Texas... takes a lot longer to get dry though! Particularly if it's really juicy grass hay (like in a corn field after harvest) or really thick hay (like the fall bluestem I bale). Later! OL J R :)
For a tax write off you must mow it and leave it lay.
CAUV
Not for property taxes, probably want a farm exemption. Saves a TON of money... Later! OL J R :)