Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- This shows how I make tables for my radial arm saw, based on the "Mr. Sawdust" design in Wally Kunkel's book "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw" (highly recommended). Steel bars are set in epoxy between two layers of plywood glued together. This new table is being built for a DeWalt MBF saw and uses my "Flip-and-Rip" back table design.
Tables and Fences (Part 1): • Radial Arm Saw: Tables...
How I make out-feed tables: • Universal Outfeed Tabl...
Zero clearance fence: • Zero Clearance Fence f...
Radial Arm Saw book: www.mrsawdust.com
DeWalt Forum: people.delphiforums.com/snotza... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I know its been along time but i have an antique dewalt saw I was going to give away but the more I watch the more Im rejuvinated in setting it back up they arent as scary as people think. thanks for the video
Thank you. If you set them up and use them correctly, they are excellent tools. Probably my favorite tool to use! However, I strongly recommend buying a copy of the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. It’s a must have for safety, setup, and technique-definitely worth the cost!
What a fine, detailed view. Thanks very much.
Many thanks!
Well done video, Brian. Thanks for the good work!
35 years ago I watched my father run the RAS, in awe of all the stuff he did with it.... And now it's mine, along with the shop and the house. But then I watch your video, as it needs a new table for it, and POOF! MIND BLOWN! Dad had only scratched the surface. After I'm done with the table itself, the neighborhood better stand clear. Sawdust will be made!
Have fun with your dad’s saw. Many things you can do with it!
I need to make a new table for my saw. My father used the same saw table for almost 50 years. it's a little warped now.
I was thinking a piece of particle board at first but this is a little more tricky. I will make this happen. Thanks for producing this video!!
Thank you. I prefer plywood, but some use MDF to make their tables. I wouldn't use particle board. A good, flat table is essential for a radial arm saw (just as you would expect a flat, cast-iron table on a table saw).
I bought an old Craftsman RAS a yr ago, watched every video & read all I could on how-to and safe operation. Best investment I ever made. I use it with all the accessories made for it and do all cuts safely. I love this machine and appreciate you sharing this video. Thankyou.👍🏼😉
Thank you. My best advise is to get a copy of Wally Kunkle's book. It's worth the price for all the things you learn to get the most out of your RAS.
Generally speaking, the radial arm saw is only dangerous when people do stupid shit with it. I've had far more close calls with table saws, and even sliding miter saws, especially at work when I am on a deadline. (I build custom cabinets)
Just got my Dad’s old Craftsman RAS. What accessories? What should I be looking for?
Thanks for the great video Brian! I was wondering why there has been an increase in sales over the past few days-now I know!
Thank you for recommending my dad's book (Mr.Sawdust) I have been selling it for 20 years now! Keep up the good work!
Thanks. Your dad would have been an interesting man to meet.
Mary, thank you for continuing to sell your dad's book. I tell everyone about it, but ironically, I've not been in a position to buy one myself yet. Go figure. But I'm so grateful to Brian for making these videos so that I'm able to understand better the proper way to make these and also see how versatile they are.
Hey Mary Walsh. How do I get a copy of your dad's book? Haven't been able to find one. Please reply to this if you still sell copies and how to buy one. Thank you.
I have not read your book. If it does not say anything about the straightness of the fence when it is clamped in place add a note on the front page to check and make sure the fence is dead straight and that the table is perfectly flat before proceeding with the following adjustments. If these instructions are in the book ignore my comments or reply to me and I will remove my redundant comment.
@@jeff228 go to the website MrSawdust dot com
www.mrsawdust.com/
Great job! You have given me some great ideas for my next table!
Thank you. Glad to hear.
I recently bought a DeWalt 1400, and was only thinking of cross cutting and miters for around the house. After watching your videos and doing some research, I realize how capable a tool the RAS is, and how much room I can save by not needing extra table tools. Excellent videos!
Thank you. It's a great, versatile tool!
can you make a diagram of the wiring on top of the motor, showing how to wire relay , ground, reset button and compositor...Please send me a copy...
I have two radial arm saws - both given to me by customers of my sawmill business. I use them both pretty often and I think that they’re the most versatile tool in the shop. I may have to put together a nicer table for these saws one of these days. Nice video. Just subscribed!
Thanks. They are versatile machines and probably my favorite woodworking tool to use.
I have never used my Dewalt for ripping, I guess I bought into the horror stories. I cannot wait to carefully try this out. I also made the Mr. Sawdust table years ago but yours is much prettier. Excellent job!
Thanks. Unfortunately, the horror stories of ripping on a RAS are real for three important reasons:
1. People don’t use a proper blade on their RAS
2. People don’t have their saw properly aligned (e.g., toe-heal adjustment/blade parallel with fence, etc.)
3. People don’t know how to properly setup and perform the rip operation (e.g., blade guard adjustment, use of anti-kickback pawl, push block, etc.)
When done correctly, it is possible to safely rip on a RAS.
I have no affiliation with, but highly recommend reading the “Mr. Sawdust” book (How to Master the Radial Arm Saw) before ripping on the RAS. www.mrsawdust.com/
The “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” is also a great place to get accurate information about radial arm saws: people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/
Very well done Brian. This would get a "well done" from my dad, Mr. Sawdust.
Thanks for the compliment. I learned a lot of things from your dad's book and from the DeWalt RAS forum.
Wally, thanks for all that you, Mark and Mary have done to promote these wonderful machines. You're changing the way people view them and you've created a cult-like following. The impact of your efforts just can't be measured. Instead of going to the landfill, these great machines are highly sought after and are being lovingly restored like classic cars.
I'm in sunny South Africa and acquired a Mr Sawdust book.What a fantastic manual
If I had a tool/work table that looked that good I'd never get anything done. I'd just bliss out admiring it. Then the day would be over. 😂
LOL! Thanks!
Brian, I wanted to let you know I used your videos for inspiration and just finished my table for my 1981 DeWalt 12" 7790 Type 7. I used MDF instead of plywood. My sacrificial top is also 3/4 MDF because I'm going to put a miter gauge and track in soon. Now I just need to design my dust collection system. Thanks! I'd love to send you a picture.
Thank you. Glad the videos were useful. I think I saw your machine posted on the forum--very nice job. That is a very thick table! I don't know how useful track is in the table. It will limit what angles you can cut without cutting into the track. It also might make it harder to replace the sacrificial top. Post photos on the forum--we all enjoy seeing them!
@@brianweekley5700 I've used a RAS for quite some time and have never moved the arm to the left of 90 degrees to make a cut so I think I'll be OK. I joined the Delphi forum, started a thread, and included a couple pictures. Looking back I should have named you. Sorry. Thanks again! forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages/11232/1
Fantastic video.
Thanks, Ed. You've been MIA on the DeWalt forum.
@@brianweekley5700 My circumstances have changed and no longer have space for a shop and shop tools. I'm glad to see you making these videos, they are much needed.
great video
Thanks, Brian for the excellent video. It is a good counterpart to some of the forum threads about how to make a strong, flat table that Wally would give a thumbs up to. Why do you use the bug juice for a finish?
Thanks. A few reasons for the "bug juice" (shellac): Adds a harder finish that reduces friction (easier for ripping), brings out the edge layers in the plywood (I think it looks nice), and because it's water resistant, it doesn't leave a ring when you set your drink down (non-alcoholic when you're working, of course).
Awesome username. RLTW!
Impressive!
Much appreciated!
Thank you for the video, Mr. Brian. I’m to this stage in restoring my saw, and want to ask; what is the thickness of your fence that you have?
@@jerbus7956 Thanks. The fence is just 1x pine (3/4”).
In your opinion, what is the best method of aligning the RAS to the fence? I've been really struggling with this, now the left side of the fence is square but the right side isn't. Thank you for your help.
I don't know what kind of saw you have, but mine has two adjustment screws near the miter release that you can adjust to make the blade/arm 90 degrees to the fence. If the fence is straight, I don't see how the fence can be square on one side of the blade and not square on the other.
Incredibly helpful video and just in time! I wondered why pin nail the sacrifice top versus screws for ease of replacement? Also, what adhesive did you use to bond the two layers?
You can easily pull the top off with the pin nails and pull them out with pliers. You use slow-set epoxy to glue the steel bars into the grooves, and wood glue to laminate the plywood. You have to work fast to complete the entire lamination process.
@@brianweekley5700 Can you recommend a particular epoxy and wood glue?
@@1duesy Use a slow set epoxy (e.g., Permatex 30 minute epoxy) and any yellow wood glue (e.g., Titebond). My latest video shows another demonstration of the lamination process: th-cam.com/video/Vl1Gz9DsBys/w-d-xo.html
Very good
Thanks
I am new to the RAS I just bought am old Dewalt. It came with no table, so your videos will help me fix that problem. I have a question, I see that you used the steel rod in both of these videos but could you please explain their purpose. Thank you for your time and the videos.
Thanks you. To properly setup and calibrate a RAS, it’s critical to have a perfectly flat table. Otherwise, doing things like cutting dados will not have a consistent depth of cut across a board. As you know, most plywood or wood typically has a slight bow. By setting steel bars in slots with epoxy and laminating two layers of plywood together (on a flat table under heavy weight), you will end up with a table that will remain flat for the rest of your life! This is typically known as “The Mr. Sawdust table”. This constriction method is described in the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel (aka Mr Sawdust). This is a must have book if you want to use your saw to it’s maximum potential. Also, consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw discussion group- lots of great info and tips discussed there.
@@brianweekley5700 Excellent thank you very much.
Where did you get the thumb screw/bars? Did they come with your particular RAS? Informative video.
Thanks for your comment. Different RAS manufacturers use slightly different mounting/clamping mechanisms. Most home-sized radial arm saws use some form of thumbscrews to hold the back tables and fence tight against the main table. The mounting bars with thumb screws shown in my video (5:18) were used on the older DeWalt radial arm saws (e.g., MBF, GWI models). Some of the large DeWalt radial arm saws used wedges. Some people also like to use toggle clamps as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/QksZSF0VRFE/w-d-xo.html.
Very nice. I made mine 18 years ago, almost identical design except I used brass inserts to secure the table cleats. I didn't have another saw I could trust, so I used a straight bit router on a straight edge to mill my table's interface the fence. Never sealed it, but it had held up well over the years. My only real disappointment was my luan top. What did you use for your top?
Ken T. I use 1/4 inch MDF for my sacrificial tops and like to seal them with shellac. MDF is nice and flat and no voids to worry about.
Hey Brian, I saw in one of your videos you also have a later model B&D. I have some similar saws and they have the wide L-Channels supporting the table as opposed to the thin rails. What would/did you do for the back tables on these? I like the idea of having the back tables sit lower in crosscut position but am wondering if a 1” gap in the sacrificial to clear the L-channel is too much when I go to rip.
Sorry I didn't respond sooner--your comment was tagged as potential spam? I don't see why wider channels wouldn't work to fit over the wider bars of the newer saw. I have a slight bevel cut in the grooves so the wood wont catch when it's passed over them. Besides, it's rare they come into play--the only time the grooves are facing up in the table is when you are ripping wide pieces and the fence is moved back behind them.
Where did you get the metal bars that has that back screw where you can tighten the table top when you move the fence?
Is that a special bar?
Thanks for the question. Those are the original table mounting rails and clamps for my older DeWalt MBF. Different brands/models may have different mounting/clamping designs. If your saw is missing the clamps, you might be able to use horizontal toggle clamps as seen in this video at about 35 sec: th-cam.com/video/QksZSF0VRFE/w-d-xo.html
Brian, thanks for posting these videos. For the arbor cutout for using the shaper, what's the cutout diameter and how far do you place it up from the edge of the back table? thanks.
Thanks for the question. I just rotated the motor so the arbor faced down and pushed the carriage all the way back to determine the recess distance required. I used a 3 inch diameter hole. The size was arbitrary--just something that I thought would provide plenty of clearance for the arbor nut and washer.
Thanks Brian. Is it acceptable to use Liquid Nails vs. epoxy for the steel bars when laminating the tables? I have a lot... Thanks.
I've never used Liquid Nails for this application so I can't recommend it. The epoxy is only used in the grooves where the steel bars go. The slots should only be slightly wider and deeper to set the bars and provide a little room for the epoxy to go. It shouldn't take much epoxy and you don't want add too much or it will squeeze out and cause humps near the bars. Wood glue is applied sparingly on the wood surfaces for the same reason--to avoid humps to create a very flat table. Check out Tommy Tomkins video also--he does a good job showing the glue-up process: th-cam.com/video/6TMBT45g_qg/w-d-xo.html
Awesome got one im going to redo
Thank you. I strongly recommend buying the book “How to master the radial arm saw” by Wally Kunkel-worth the price for making the table, alignment, and many great tips on using the saw.
what size brass nails do you use to hold the top on ? also do you think 20" is too wide for the front table on my 1963 Craftsman Accra-Arm RAS? I am making the table 48 inches wide. Do you think that is too wide? Stock is 40"
As shown in this video at 5:40, I just use a nail gun to attach the sacrificial top. In this case, I’m using 18 Gauge, 5/8 inch long nails. Make sure you avoid the major blade paths (e.g., 0 degree crosscut, 45 degree miter, and the center rip trough). It’s also very helpful to use a big Sharpie to put a black dot on each nail location in case you have to remove one when cutting a different angle (so you don't hit the nail with your blade).
Personally, I prefer my RAS on a mobile cart with a smaller-sized table to conserve space. I make my tables 37 inches wide and use roller stands or outfeed tables when needed. As far as depth of table, 20 inches sounds big. If you check out my Part 1 video, the depth of the main table doesn’t need to be any larger than the distance between the fence and the blade in the outmost, out-rip position. In reality, narrower is more practical. Unless you plan to rip lots of large plywood sheets, I find it extremely rare that that a deep table is needed. A deep table also makes it tougher to reach controls and will be more obtrusive because it will stick further out into your room. The table I used in Part 1 is 17 inches deep and the table I made in Part 2 is 16 inches deep (I think the original table on my saw was only 13 inches deep).
I need a wiring diagram for Dewalt 10 inch RAS 1400 model 203607 Powershop...I don't know how the wiring goes to the relay, restart button, ground. my wire colors have been change from original wiring diagram...don't what goes where???
nice
My father-in-law just gave me his old Montgomery Wards Powr Kraft radial arm saw. I am getting ready to replace the table on it using the methods that you've said forth in these videos. My question is, how did you determine the dimensions of your top?
LOL! I assume the original table is missing? You can always size a table differently than the original, but this is what works best for me... I make my tables 37” wide (to conveniently house 36” long steel rails). For the depth of the tables, consult my Part 1 video. Rotate the carriage to the in-rip orientation and set the yoke position so it aligns with “in-rip zero”. The blade location indicates where the edge of the fence should be located. Now, rotate the carriage to the out rip orientation and pull it all the way to the end of the arm. The blade indicates how far out you might want the table to extend (probably about 16 inches would be fine). Don’t make the table any deeper than that or it will be hard to reach controls. Therefore, I suggest making the main table 16” x 37”. For the back tables... measure the remaining space left over between the back of the fence and the clamping mechanism. For various reasons, it helps to have two back tables. For example, if the space remaining is 7”, I’d make 1.5” and 5.5” back tables. If it’s 8”, I might make them 2” and 6”. Hope that helps. If you send me an email (weekleybs80@gmail.com), I’ll send you a cut list on how to make a nice table and extensions from a single sheet of plywood.
@@brianweekley5700 outstanding, thank you. I actually do have the original table, but I want to make mine a different dimension.I am also concerned about the bolt holes and getting the new table perfectly perpendicular to the blade because this saw is not as adjustable and fine tuneable as the DeWalt saws are. Thank you so much for your guidance on this. It's no secret how much I love all of your videos.
Brian, How do you mount the table so that you'll have the best chance of it being square to the blade and the path of the arm? I know those can be adjusted, but I feel like if you can get those pretty close, that would be ideal.
Also, is there a way you can cover the best way to set up the leveling screws for the little arms that the top attaches to in order to make it easier to level?
@@silaspbaker I would use a framing square to mark off where to mount the table (make it as square as possible to the base). If you have a later-model saw without the adjustment screws (e.g., angle iron rails), it’s definitely harder to level the table. I have a separate video that describes how to setup up the table and make the adjustments to calibrate it. Hopefully this helps…Radial Arm Saw Alignment/Calibration
th-cam.com/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/w-d-xo.html
1:00] Wow, that is the cross-cut sled you read about!
Just a standard cross cut sled, but thanks!
@@brianweekley5700 No, most crosscut sleds I see on TH-cam seem so flimsy you cannot see quite how they work.
What did you use to laminate the two pieces of plywood together?
Thanks for the question. I provide a little more information in the video description. A slow-set (30 min) epoxy is used to set the steel bars in the dados. Wood glue is then sparingly applied on the plywood. It is essential that the glue-up is done on a flat surface under heavy weight. If you search for "Part 3 - Building a Mr Sawdust Table", Mr. Tomkins shows a good example of the actual lamination process. I also strongly recommend getting a copy of Mr. Kunkel's book on the radial arm saw. It's a wealth of knowledge and information that will help you get the most out of your saw.
Hi Brian - thanks for publishing this video! How much shorter did you cut the sacrificial tops than the table itself? Oh, I was also wondering why the back tables need to be lower for making crosscuts.
Thank you. Having a small gap between the fence and the sacrificial top helps keep sawdust from building up behind the workpiece when you push it tight against the fence (about an 1/8 inch is fine). It’s nice to have the table surface behind the fence slightly lower. This way the blade teeth are not buried into the back table as it is when the blade is pulled in front of the fence into the sacrificial top. When the blade is behind the fence, you will be able to easily swing the arm to adjust a miter angle (e.g., swinging the arm to 45 degrees). Otherwise, you would first have to raise the saw blade teeth out of the back table before you can move the arm and then lower it back down (cutting another kerf into the back table). It’s a fine point, but it makes it easier and keeps the surface on your back tables from getting chewed up.
@@brianweekley5700 That's very helpful info - thanks again!
Where do you get bars that hold table with screws?
Are you referring to the mounting bars that attach the table to the saw? If so, your saw should already come with some sort of mounting system. Different brands and models had different ways to mount the table. If you are missing them, you could probably fabricate some from angle iron. I’ve seen some people use electrical strut channel to replace missing mounting bars.
Dear Brian, I have followed your videos regarding a radial arm saw and armed with that knowledge {plus more from other producers} have been commissioning a 600mm ONGA model. It certainly is a powerful machine and the motor drives the 355mm blade with ease. There is one thing that I have seen flit in and out of the screen which interests me - the broad push block. Would it be possible to publish some pictures of a nearly new one along with some dimensions. That would be most appreciated. Cheers.
Absolutely. I’m in desperate need of making a new one (it lasts an especially long time). A push board (instead of a push stick) is the way to go for ripping boards since it pushes both pieces safely past the blade. You basically want it long enough to extend past the blade, but not long enough to engage the anti-kickback pawls on the other side. However, some brands have the anti-kickback pawls on the infeed side of the blade guard. In that case, it could be problematic since you wouldn’t be able to pull the push board back out!
A good demo of a push board used with ripping here… th-cam.com/video/vyZ0RYl27jU/w-d-xo.html
Just bought a used craftsman . No accessories. Are they available on the used market?
Not sure what particular accessories you are looking for, but many can be found on eBay.
Where do you get the steel bars that the table mounts to
The table mounting bars come with the saw. If yours are missing, you have to fabricate your own. Some people use strut channel.
@@brianweekley5700 thanks
Why don’t you give dimension for your flip system
Radial arm saws come in many sizes and have different size tables. Therefore, I can’t provide exact sizes for your saw. The two different size back tables allow you to perform different operations. For example, putting the small back table in front of the fence allows you to gain a little longer crosscut capacity (when cutting 1x wood). Putting one or more back tables in front of the fence allows you to have wider rip capacity. These back tables were standard on most of the DeWalt saws. If you don’t have a DeWalt, you’d have to figure out what works best for your saw.
where can I find a wiring diagram for a Dewalt RAS #1400 mdl 203607, powershop???
Look up the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". The folks on that site would be more than happy to help you find the wiring diagram you need. Are you talking the power and switch or the motor?
@@brianweekley5700 for some reason I can't explain, the forum won't let me log on?
@@johnbauer3801 Have you created an account? It’s free, but you have to create a user name and password.
@@brianweekley5700 yes, still won't let log in...
@@johnbauer3801 Sorry, I can't help you there. It's not my site. You'd have to contact Delphi.
what are the dimensions of your table? i just got a dewalt and don't have an existing table to go off of
What model saw do you have?
@@brianweekley5700 dewalt mbf
Sorry, missed your response. I make my tables 37" wide. For an MBF, a 16" deep table is fine. My back tables are 1-1/2" and 5-1/2" wide.
How do you square the fence to the blade accurately and consistantly?
Thanks for the question. I have a separate video that describes in detail how to setup and calibrate the radial arm saw….
th-cam.com/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/w-d-xo.html
@@brianweekley5700 thanks
@@MrHhhscott The old, cast iron saws hold there adjustments very well. Once the calibration procedure is performed correctly, it should cut accurately for many years to come. Unfortunately, not always true with the lower the quality saws.
Awesome! Just wish I could afford the plywood haha
Thanks! That’s the truth-lumber and plywood prices are ridiculous right now. However, one sheet of plywood is enough to make a nice table including two out-feed tables as shown at the end of the video. This makes a really nice setup!
The full table with extensions can be seen better at the end of this video:
th-cam.com/video/FN8nawcodjA/w-d-xo.html
@@brianweekley5700
I think the reason my first try failed is because I built a platform and then cut 3 seperate sheets of 5/8 ply for my infeed, outfeed and cutting portions of the the table. 1 sheet of MDF might be best what do you think?
@@WhiskyPankcake I’m not clear what you did. However, the tables are made from two layers of 3/4” plywood. I strongly recommend buying the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” by Wally Kunkel. It has a chapter on how to build a proper table for your RAS. Also, consider joining the DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum (you will easily find it if you search for that name online. A tremendous source of information and place to ask questions. I’ll send you a link for my cut list on how you can get the tables and outfeeds from a single sheet of plywood (you’ll probably have to join the forum to read it, but it’s free).
@@WhiskyPankcake forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/messages/?msg=12107.3
why do you use a table saw to cut the table to final width? is the radial arm saw not capable of that?
Thanks for your question. The table I was making was wider than the general cross-cut capacity of that RAS (about 14”). Regardless, I still could have used the RAS to cut that 17” wide table. One option would have been to move the fence further back to increase the capacity, lower the blade into the piece, and then finish the cross cut. Another option would have been to cut from one side and then flip it over and finish the cut from the other side. This actually works remarkably well as long as your saw is properly aligned and the sides are parallel. I have used this technique to cut wide plywood cabinet panels very successfully. The real reason was it was extremely cold in my garage where my RAS is located and the table saw is in my heated basement! One point I’d like to make: Many people claim “the RAS is extremely dangerous and you should never ever rip on one” and “the only thing a RAS is good for is cross-cutting”. These statements are often made by people who have no idea how to set them up/tune them properly and have not been shown the proper techniques to use these saws safely. Therefore, I actually thought it was very appropriate that I showed the exact opposite: I used the RAS to do all the ripping and the table saw to do the cross cuts!
Have you looked at making a rip fence with something like the www.jessem.com/clear-cut-stock-guides.html (or one of the other many versions) that are designed to hold down stock and also pull it into the fence. Should help the ripping process for long stock and if you make the fence tall enough and the wheels spaced out to clear the body of the saw it shouldn't get in the way of the other uses (just flip the board to use as normal).
Thanks for your question. Yes, they look nice, but I’ve never tried them. On a RAS, you generally don't want the fence much taller than your stock. When hold-downs are needed, “Board Buddies” work great. I show these hold-down wheels in use at 5 min:15 sec in the following video: th-cam.com/video/BDPaa5dwR3E/w-d-xo.html If you checkout the following video at 1 min:15 sec, I also show an example of using my extra long back-table and rip fence: th-cam.com/video/KOzRB30gxpE/w-d-xo.html This works great when ripping or molding long boards-it provides a much longer fence than what you typically find on a table saw.
Your blade seems to cut like butter. How about some advise on good blades?
Unfortunately, many people do not use proper blades on their RAS. The “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum” highly recommends two specific blades for the RAS:
1. Forrest Woodworker I (TCG) “Mr. Sawdust” blade [Not to be confused with the Woodworker I (ATB) blade]. This is reported as the best blade for the RAS. The only place I know where you can order this specific blade online is from Sliversmill.com:
www.sliversmill.com/product_620_WOODWORKER_I__TCG_Design_Used_by_Mr_Sawdust_for_Cutting_a_V.html
Otherwise, this blade is a special order directly from Forrest (the TCG, Mr. Sawdust blade is not shown on their website-you have to specifically ask for it).
2. The Freud LU83R is another highly recommended blade for the RAS.
I own both and can confirm they perform very well. I recommend the references below for excellent information about radial arm saws:
people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/
www.mrsawdust.com/
I really appreciate your taking the time to answer. After some more research I went with a Freud blade. Maybe after 40 years I will finally have a proper blade. Now time for a new table. Thanks again
Assuming you have a 10" saw or smaller, the LU83R is an excellent, thin-kerf, combination blade that performs well for cross-cut, miters, and ripping on the RAS.
Me: "I know how to woodwork." *watches this video* "yeah, maybe not"
LOL!
Can a person just make a standard table and fence out of plywood?
Instead of making a moveable fence?
If you are suggesting just screwing down a piece of wood to the top of a plywood table and using that as a fixed fence, I wouldn’t recommend it. You’d be missing out on one of the most versatile aspects of the radial arm saw and it would not allow you to use it to its full potential. The purpose of the double-layer, steel-reinforced table is to create a perfectly flat surface-this is essential for precision work. The clamping mechanism/back tables/moveable fence serves many purposes. Besides making it easier to replace the fence, it allows you to clamp in a variety of jigs for miters, crown molding, etc. It also allows you to change the capacity for both cross-cuts and ripping. Finally, the clamping mechanism also enables multiple specialty fences to be installed for ripping and molding/shaping operations.
out of curiosity have you tried making a table (or parts of the table) out of UHMW ? I just acquired a Craftsman (.198211) RAS built in 1987. The table and a few parts were missing and am looking forward to getting this back up and running. I plan on making a table about 10' long on the long side of my garage with my RAS and a dewalt miter 12" saw.
I strongly recommend buying a copy of “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw” (I have a link to it in the video description). It really is a must read to learn about setup, adjustments, and safety. It will also show you some amazing uses and techniques that are well worth the price. A good RAS can be a precision machine when setup correctly. Building a RAS directly into a long bench can make it very difficult to align/level the table accurately with the arm. Some people do, but you need to consider a design that allows you to independently level the RAS and its table to the rest of the bench top. Radial arm saws are really meant to have a sacrificial, replaceable top. It’s good to periodically replace the top covering as saw kerfs will eventually tear it up. A new top also helps prevent chip-out underneath your work pieces. Since the table top covering is throwaway, I would find UHMW to be an expensive option that’s not needed. Even though you have a Craftsman, consider joining the DeWalt radial arm saw forum. There are many helpful members and they have a ton of useful and relevant information in the FAQs that will help you get your saw in service.
What are the dimensions of your three table pieces please. I am trying to resurrect my dads craftsman from the 70’s
Thanks for the question and sorry for this long response...The size of the tables are going to be very specific to your make and model saw. If you check out my video (Part 1), it explains where the edge of the main table should start (in-rip zero). If you rotate the saw to the out-rip position and pull the blade to the end of the arm, I like to make the main table deep enough so the blade is still on the table at this outmost position. After you add a 3/4 inch thick fence behind the main table, you can now calculate how much room is left to make the back table(s)--distance between the fence and the clamps. In this video (Part 2), the table was made for a DeWalt MBF. For this saw, the main table is 16x37 inches and the back tables are 1-3/4 + 5-1/2 (x 37) inches. Again, these dimensions are probably different for your saw. The width of the table is personal preference. I buy 36" long steel bars, so I make the table slightly wider (37"). Some people prefer a wider table, but you don't want it too wide or you have more stability and adjustment issues. I prefer the 37" width and attach extensions or use out-feed rollers, when needed.
No dimensions an no info where to get metal parts below top
As stated in the video and also provided in the video description, the table is designed based on Wally Kunkel’s book, “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw”. I highly recommend buying a copy where it provides more information about building his table. It also includes invaluable information about how to tune and use your saw. The steel bars are 1/8” x 3/4” and can be found at many hardware and big box stores.
Where do you get the steel bars at??
You can get them at most hardware or big box stores (e.g., Home Depot) in their hardware section. They are 1/8” x 3/4” x 36”.
www.truevalue.com/flat-steel-bar-stock-1-8-x-3-4-x-72-in
Why the 2 notches in top
Did you watch Part 1? The notches fit over the mounting bars so the back tables behind the fence are lower than the front table. However, when I flip the back table upside down and move them in front of the fence, the surface is now level with the front table (e.g., for ripping).
Thanks
I got the measurement of 18”, fence 3/4” then 7” then 2 inch for my de Walt 7790. Your opinion?
Size of t,ops
@@rsavain On my MBF, my back tables are 1-1/2” and 5-1/2”. On my 1030, they’re 2” and 6”.
No dimensions are given for front or other pieces
Not all saws are the same and span a large range of sizes. The size of the table pieces will depend on the brand and model saw you have. Based on the concepts shown, you should be able to figure out what works best for you.
This was so confusing!
Seriously? I’d be happy to answer any questions. However, as explained in the video description, I was making the table based on the book “How to Master the Radial Arm Saw”, by Wally Kunkel. I strongly suggest buying a copy for reference. It’s a must have for proper saw setup and operation.
@@brianweekley5700 I should, as you suggest, just read the book.
Didn’t understand one bit of that