Thanks Harris it was a hard job to do but your routing info and other tips were very helpful, thank you very much for taking the time to make this info for others.
A couple of things make this much easier. First, since you are changing the hose and discarding the old hose, don't worry about how baddly you mangle it - I had to use an 8 inch pipe wrench to get it loose. I tried a 14mm flare nut wrench but no luck. Could not get enough leverage on it to remove it. The pipe wrench did the trick and it loosened up. Secondly, before you pull out the old hose, tie a string to it so you can see the path needed to get the new hose into proper position. Then you will find, it is much easier to put the new hose in from underneath. First thing to do is to disconnect the Oxygen sensor that goes to the exhaust. Then remove the connector from the bracket and push it out of the way. Then, start on the driver's side behind the cross beam that the hose was attached to with the 2 brackets , insert the rubber part of the hose through to the passenger side - not too far because then you will insert the tube with the flare nut into the other side where the old one used to go - just follow the string with regards to where to put it. Once you get the tube in to where you can see it from the driver side wheel well and it is nearly in position to connect back up (it should be at the wrong angle at this point) go back to the hose on the passenger side. You should be able to move it past the bracket next to the bracket that held the oxygen sensor, and into proper position while also working up the hose to the power steering pump - this part is easier if you have someone to help and pull it up from above. The hose should move up towards the PS pump and the person underneath can make any additional adjustments to the positioning - which should be much easier without the oxygen sensor in the way. Once the tube is in place underneath, do not attach the brackets until you are sure you can properly thread the flare nut back into the steering rack. I applied some anti-seize lubricant to the nut (a very small amount) so if I need to do this again, it won't be such a pain in the butt to get that nut loose. It is difficult to get much of the nut in by hand - start it with your fingers and then use an open end wrench/box wrench to gently tighten it until it starts to become snug. Then go back under and attach the 2 clamps and then lastly the clamp on the back of the engine. Attach the connector to the power steering pump and then go back underneath and tighten the flare nut on the steering rack with a flare nut wrench. Re-check your connections and tighten as needed. Do not over-tighten on the aluminum pump or the flare nut on the steering rack. Then go back underneath and put the 2 clamps back on in the proper positions. The clamps have tabs that go into notches on the cross beam. The clamp on the driver side is easy as it is right in front of you when underneath. The other is on top of the cross beam so it can be a bit more difficult. Get the tab into the notch and then thread and finger tighten the bolt and use the socket with a short extension on it by hand and then as it gets tight, use a ratchet. Tighten the other clamp and then go back up top and install the clamp on the back of the engine. Go to the passenger sid wheel well and put the oxygen sensor female plug back onto the bracket and then go back underneath and reconnect the oxygen sensor. From the passenger side wheel well, you should be able to reconnect the PS pressure sensor as well. Make sure your connections are tight and then bleed the power steering. Some of the videos on this said it took hours to get the new hose back into the car. Doing it from underneath, made it much faster. In total, it took an hour to get it back in. But, had I known to remove the oxygen sensor connector from the bracket, I would have been able to shave off about 15 or 20 minutes. Also, approaching it from underneath makes much more sense as you run the tube up to the driver side to the steering rack and the flexible hose through to the passenger side. was much smoother than trying from the side (I tried that too and found it to be a real pain.) Also, I did not have to bend the tube at all to get it back into proper position. Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I hadn't thought of the Hansel and Gretel trick with the string! For what is essentially an easy repair, with only two threaded connections, and one wired one, it's amazing what a pain it is! Thanks again!
Hi Ciro, sorry about that. The connection to the rack is among the easiest. Everything is in front of you with the tire off. You're right though. It is possible to screw it up. How do I know, because I did it! Thanks!
Excellent video. No other video shows the position of hard part of hose so clearly. Just one warning for someone who happens to take the passage side wheel off, and want to push the hose from that side. Do not do that. Push down the host from the top, so its orientation is right, so it would be much easier to route it to the right position.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video you save me hours of frustration definitely buying the Honda part hopefully the Rhode Island place connection still works thank you again
Had the same problem ordering for my 03 Honda accord hose. Everything looked right but the flare nut would not screw into the damn rack. Thumbs up in the idiots that almost got it right. Dont buy your hose off Amazon. I got one that looked right and spent hours trying to get the nut in the end to screw in before saying to myself " it shouldn't be that difficult to screw a damn flare nut in. I guess some parts are best if you get a legit OEM one or a good used one at a junkyard
Agreed! Glad you got it working. I don't think I'd go with a used one, simply because the metal doesn't leak, but the hose does, and you don't have any warning. I can't imagine, how a company that manufactures parts for all metric vehicles, would use SAE. I mean, who does that?
Harris: They are great tips. Can you please provide the Honda parts website you purchased from Rhode Island. I need one and my local dealer wants $220. Thanks.
Hi Shu-wen! Glad this was helpful. This is the dealer I've used several times: www.hondaautomotiveparts.com It's amazing (and I think almost fraud) for dealers to mark up parts above MSRP from Honda. Just imagine all the people who trust their dealers as representatives of Honda, not knowing that their dealers are ripping them off. Have fun (not) with the hose installation. I also ordered some new brackets, bolts, etc. Harris P.S. Mine was $116.79 for the 53713-S0X-A02 hose, with $7.97 shipping, (minus a coupon discount on shipping)
Harris, Thanks for your reply. Now I know where I can buy genuine Honda parts with good prices. The price of same part you had 53713-S0X-A02 now is $134.27 which is even lower than Amazon $ 154 00 + $5.95 shipping.
I didn't watch the video yet so maybe I'm missing something important about the part, but I found that part on Amazon for $26 and free shipping. Even then I also found the same part for $52-$62. What am I missing? www.amazon.com/QUIOSS-Steering-Pressure-Assembly-1999-2004/dp/B01MQHGXI6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534166479&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=2003+honda+odyssey+power+steering+pressure+hose&psc=1
It's not an actual Honda part. Doesn't mean it won't work, but I learned my lesson as you can see from the video. Good luck, let us know how the project ends up!
Can you please let me know how you fixed it when the power steering switch connector broke off. what part did you use. mine looks like only one line is coming out of the switch.
Hello! Ok, I was cursing the entire time I was working on that problem. Very annoying design. In my case, I went to disconnect the socket and the wires promptly broke. At first I thought about taking a Dremel to the part, because when I called Honda, they naturally said the only way to get the part was to buy and install an entirely new wiring harness! I mentioned this to a friend, and they said check the web. And it turns out my local Autozone had the part: www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-pres-switch-con/dorman-power-steering-pres-switch-con/373159_0_0 I think they price matched to $15 bucks or so. The difficult part, while doing this on my back under the vehicle, was stripping the remaining leads, then crimping, all while upside down. If I had a lift, I would have probably soldered and used heat shrink (with adhesive) to make it secure and waterproof, but I settled for crimps. There is very little leeway on the leads. Afterward I realized that could have probably removed the switch, fixed the problem and then reinstalled. Then I realized it was the other side that was the problem, Doh! But, having the longer leads was great, and it was instructive to see what a difference that simply switch makes in terms of keeping the engine from stuttering during parking. Let me know if this helps.
Thanks Harris it was a hard job to do but your routing info and other tips were very helpful, thank you very much for taking the time to make this info for others.
A couple of things make this much easier. First, since you are changing the hose and discarding the old hose, don't worry about how baddly you mangle it - I had to use an 8 inch pipe wrench to get it loose. I tried a 14mm flare nut wrench but no luck. Could not get enough leverage on it to remove it. The pipe wrench did the trick and it loosened up. Secondly, before you pull out the old hose, tie a string to it so you can see the path needed to get the new hose into proper position. Then you will find, it is much easier to put the new hose in from underneath. First thing to do is to disconnect the Oxygen sensor that goes to the exhaust. Then remove the connector from the bracket and push it out of the way. Then, start on the driver's side behind the cross beam that the hose was attached to with the 2 brackets , insert the rubber part of the hose through to the passenger side - not too far because then you will insert the tube with the flare nut into the other side where the old one used to go - just follow the string with regards to where to put it. Once you get the tube in to where you can see it from the driver side wheel well and it is nearly in position to connect back up (it should be at the wrong angle at this point) go back to the hose on the passenger side. You should be able to move it past the bracket next to the bracket that held the oxygen sensor, and into proper position while also working up the hose to the power steering pump - this part is easier if you have someone to help and pull it up from above. The hose should move up towards the PS pump and the person underneath can make any additional adjustments to the positioning - which should be much easier without the oxygen sensor in the way. Once the tube is in place underneath, do not attach the brackets until you are sure you can properly thread the flare nut back into the steering rack. I applied some anti-seize lubricant to the nut (a very small amount) so if I need to do this again, it won't be such a pain in the butt to get that nut loose. It is difficult to get much of the nut in by hand - start it with your fingers and then use an open end wrench/box wrench to gently tighten it until it starts to become snug. Then go back under and attach the 2 clamps and then lastly the clamp on the back of the engine. Attach the connector to the power steering pump and then go back underneath and tighten the flare nut on the steering rack with a flare nut wrench. Re-check your connections and tighten as needed. Do not over-tighten on the aluminum pump or the flare nut on the steering rack. Then go back underneath and put the 2 clamps back on in the proper positions. The clamps have tabs that go into notches on the cross beam. The clamp on the driver side is easy as it is right in front of you when underneath. The other is on top of the cross beam so it can be a bit more difficult. Get the tab into the notch and then thread and finger tighten the bolt and use the socket with a short extension on it by hand and then as it gets tight, use a ratchet. Tighten the other clamp and then go back up top and install the clamp on the back of the engine. Go to the passenger sid wheel well and put the oxygen sensor female plug back onto the bracket and then go back underneath and reconnect the oxygen sensor. From the passenger side wheel well, you should be able to reconnect the PS pressure sensor as well. Make sure your connections are tight and then bleed the power steering. Some of the videos on this said it took hours to get the new hose back into the car. Doing it from underneath, made it much faster. In total, it took an hour to get it back in. But, had I known to remove the oxygen sensor connector from the bracket, I would have been able to shave off about 15 or 20 minutes. Also, approaching it from underneath makes much more sense as you run the tube up to the driver side to the steering rack and the flexible hose through to the passenger side. was much smoother than trying from the side (I tried that too and found it to be a real pain.) Also, I did not have to bend the tube at all to get it back into proper position. Good luck!
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I hadn't thought of the Hansel and Gretel trick with the string! For what is essentially an easy repair, with only two threaded connections, and one wired one, it's amazing what a pain it is! Thanks again!
Sounds hideous .
You two are delightful, really appreciate the advice and attention to detail.
Why thank you! We think you are delightful as well!
Ithought you were going to show how to pass it under the engine to the rack.
Hi Ciro, sorry about that. The connection to the rack is among the easiest. Everything is in front of you with the tire off. You're right though. It is possible to screw it up. How do I know, because I did it! Thanks!
Excellent video can you share the online page where did you buy please
Excellent video. No other video shows the position of hard part of hose so clearly.
Just one warning for someone who happens to take the passage side wheel off, and want to push the hose from that side. Do not do that. Push down the host from the top, so its orientation is right, so it would be much easier to route it to the right position.
Thank you! That's great advice. Replacing parts like these really makes one like cars like the Model T.
"Like getting an extra tooth pulled out without anesthesia." LMAO!!! Kidding aside, thanks for the tips.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video you save me hours of frustration definitely buying the Honda part hopefully the Rhode Island place connection still works thank you again
Thanks!
Hello. I liked your video. Not sure how long the piston rings run on this engine?
THANKS!!!!!!
Thanks! I hope your job went ok.
Had the same problem ordering for my 03 Honda accord hose. Everything looked right but the flare nut would not screw into the damn rack. Thumbs up in the idiots that almost got it right. Dont buy your hose off Amazon. I got one that looked right and spent hours trying to get the nut in the end to screw in before saying to myself " it shouldn't be that difficult to screw a damn flare nut in. I guess some parts are best if you get a legit OEM one or a good used one at a junkyard
Agreed! Glad you got it working. I don't think I'd go with a used one, simply because the metal doesn't leak, but the hose does, and you don't have any warning. I can't imagine, how a company that manufactures parts for all metric vehicles, would use SAE. I mean, who does that?
Harris: They are great tips. Can you please provide the Honda parts website you purchased from Rhode Island. I need one and my local dealer wants $220. Thanks.
Hi Shu-wen! Glad this was helpful. This is the dealer I've used several times:
www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
It's amazing (and I think almost fraud) for dealers to mark up parts above MSRP from Honda. Just imagine all the people who trust their dealers as representatives of Honda, not knowing that their dealers are ripping them off. Have fun (not) with the hose installation. I also ordered some new brackets, bolts, etc. Harris
P.S. Mine was $116.79 for the 53713-S0X-A02 hose, with $7.97 shipping, (minus a coupon discount on shipping)
Harris,
Thanks for your reply. Now I know where I can buy genuine Honda parts with good prices. The price of same part you had 53713-S0X-A02 now is $134.27 which is even lower than Amazon $ 154 00 + $5.95 shipping.
I didn't watch the video yet so maybe I'm missing something important about the part, but I found that part on Amazon for $26 and free shipping. Even then I also found the same part for $52-$62. What am I missing? www.amazon.com/QUIOSS-Steering-Pressure-Assembly-1999-2004/dp/B01MQHGXI6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1534166479&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=2003+honda+odyssey+power+steering+pressure+hose&psc=1
It's not an actual Honda part. Doesn't mean it won't work, but I learned my lesson as you can see from the video. Good luck, let us know how the project ends up!
@@markandjuliemears3745 Watch the video, it's precisely why not to use that Amazon part.
Can you please let me know how you fixed it when the power steering switch connector broke off. what part did you use. mine looks like only one line is coming out of the switch.
Hello! Ok, I was cursing the entire time I was working on that problem. Very annoying design. In my case, I went to disconnect the socket and the wires promptly broke. At first I thought about taking a Dremel to the part, because when I called Honda, they naturally said the only way to get the part was to buy and install an entirely new wiring harness! I mentioned this to a friend, and they said check the web. And it turns out my local Autozone had the part:
www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/power-steering-pres-switch-con/dorman-power-steering-pres-switch-con/373159_0_0
I think they price matched to $15 bucks or so. The difficult part, while doing this on my back under the vehicle, was stripping the remaining leads, then crimping, all while upside down. If I had a lift, I would have probably soldered and used heat shrink (with adhesive) to make it secure and waterproof, but I settled for crimps. There is very little leeway on the leads. Afterward I realized that could have probably removed the switch, fixed the problem and then reinstalled. Then I realized it was the other side that was the problem, Doh!
But, having the longer leads was great, and it was instructive to see what a difference that simply switch makes in terms of keeping the engine from stuttering during parking. Let me know if this helps.
This vid was on point,thanks for being here