This blue makes for a very pretty car. I'm sure the old boy who had it before you must have been very proud of it! I can see you finding this one very hard to sell on. It's certainly a modern classic, a car people could be admiring at classic car shows a dozen years from now, if looked after - a task I suspect you would greatly relish.
They fail because there was a bending op post paint to compensate for a twisted boot lid through the curing process. This happened because they only used a one sided support to prop open the boot lid through the ovens.
I had a Rover 75, same colour with BMW diesel engine in some 20yrs ago, was one of the best modern cars I have ever owned!!!!!!! The bulk head drain tubes were a known problem even then, I took mine into Rover and there solution was the pipes underneath they ran a Stanley knife through them!!!!!! So pipes still there but split open!!!!!!!!! To be fair to Rover, it worked!!! They never blocked again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It looks in great condition all round! Just a point about the plenum drains, I'm not sure if you know but there's another one on the passenger side further in that's right under the ECU. That's the one that can cause the ECU to become flooded if it blocks. You need to take a few panels off the scuttle to get access but overall it's an easy job.
Matt, you KNOW it makes sense to keep it. Much as I’m loving this trading up series you’ll have to hang on to it..find another this good if you can. Dilemma is what goes??
Just a quick tip, on our Rover 75 Classic there used to be a swimming pool just below the master cylinder on the driver's side, I discovered there is a rubber pipe just below the power steering pot on the bulkhead. Also watch Ian's (Hubnut) upload regarding how to remove the plastic just below the windscreen, (the garage that serviced the Rover managed to break the item, than repaired it badly so I guess it's quite brittle plastic). Good luck with your car, it's in great condition.
Agitation is key to good extraction and fabric cleaning. Spray a good fabric cleaner on and allow it to dwell for a few minutes, agitate with an appropriate brush (not too soft otherwise it wont do much, not to stiff or it will ruin the fabric), and then extract. Drenching fabric and simply extracting it isn't going to make the most of the detergents that you are using. If you don't have a steam cleaner I'd invest in one of those as well - wrap a microfibre towel over the end and agitate fabrics with it and you will be surprised as to how much gunk comes out.
KEEP IT! Sorry to shout, Matt, but it is a perfect fit with your Rover collection, so please, please keep it! It is in great condition and wont take much to bring back to something befitting a gentleman’s car of that age. Like someone else said, get shut of the Volvo or the Alfa. This car demands a permanent home in your Rover museum. Nice one, Matt!
Had one for about 6 years, with the diesel cdti engine ,and autobox what a pleasure to drive, best car i have ever had still regret selling it. The 75 and ZT club is a great forum to follow with loads of help and advice.
You'd be bonkers to sell this! I had an early one in the same colour that I bought for a mere £550 to quickly replace my written off ZT and I was massively impressed with how it drove; very different in character. Miss that car!
Many years ago I had a W reg CDI, great car very solid and went surprisingly well. Only one problem was the ignition key would get stuck in the barrel. Managed to cure it with 3 in 1 oil, although I put so much in it dripped for months. Good luck with yours.
Great vid as always! I own a 1.4 petrol 2002 Rover 25 which is currently off the road as I now work from home and no longer need it for commuting. It was a hand-me-down car from a late grandparent. It suffered a coolant leak a few years back, which lead me to believe it was the dreaded HG issue, so I simply chucked in some gasket weld and it’s been fine ever since. No leaks and the temp stays below the half way line 👍🏻. I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it. It starts on the button every time, even if it’s been left for weeks. They look great these old Rovers do and I’m glad to see that there are still many enthusiasts out there who are willing to keep them on the road 👍🏻
Just for the sake of future reference for others. 90% of the time you should never put any "gasket repair" or "gasket seal" into a K-Series. Particularly K-Seal. If you are willing to risk it steel seal is the least deadly in a limited quantity. The K has very fine water ways and if you're unlucky those repair liquids can congeal and block them, that will hotspot the head and destroy it. I've seen it happen many times unfortunately. Sounds like you've been safe which is good to hear. I'd just prefer to warn people! It's always a bummer to hear when someone has had their engine cooked because of K-Seal.
@@SpitfireFortyFour You are right 👍I would normally have got the car sorted out properly, but it would have cost more than the cars worth. So it was either try that or sell it for spares or repair. Luckily for me its been running fine ever since and ticks over perfectly on idle
@@SpitfireFortyFour Sound advice. There is a myth within consumer and in the trade circles that K-Series Cylinder Head Gaskets are prone to "Failure". That is misleading and repeated many times on all forms of media. Misleading because they rarely ever fail. ON ANY CAR. They are invariably first DAMAGED by some other process. That invariably being OVERHEATING following coolant loss. The excess heat will damage engine components and the first one to suffer is the poor old gasket which ALWAYS gets the blame unfairly. Folks accuse me and our K-Series cars in the family fleet as being "lucky" that our British cars are so reliable. It is not just luck. We check things as recommended by ALL manufacturers. Cue Clarkson's rodent sidekick blurting out on BBC's Top Gear things like "MGFs are RUBBISH" Broadcast to the World. Cue also comments like this from brainwashed ... These folks are highly paid professionals so obviously know what they are on about. Wrong in spades.
Looks like a good add-value purchase with bits to fix plus an intensive clean in and out (DiamondBrite deployed!). Interior smell - Rover 75 + pipe sounds about right 😊
With the water ingress in the boot I highly recommend pulling the inner trim away from the wing (this was the same side as mine) and check where the chrome trim on the outside clips in on the wing, took me ages to figure out where the water was coming from (I changed the light seals hoping it was that but I saw the water dripping from one of the clips from the trim. If it is from there I just chucked some mastic sealer in the clip and it's been dry since
Water ingress in your boot is the light cluster seals,I took mine off and cleaned them then smeared sealant into them & reversed them & placed them on the opposite sides, sorted 👍
That is a great car, Matt. I've lived the look of a 75 since I first saw one on Dalziel and Pascoe. Tom Barnaby in Midsomer Murders had a couple of them, one pre- and one post-facelift. With most of that surface rust, get rid of the loose stuff and then either POR-15 or Krown Rustproofing to the rescue. Krown WORKS. It was invented to counteract the dreadful winter weather here that can destroy a car in 10 years. It has kept my 240DL Estate in one piece for 33 years and counting. With my dislike, even hatred, of front wheel drive and the Ford 4.6 litre, I wonder if I could take the rear wheel drive MG version, yank the engine and transmission, and drop in a late 80s spec 351W (5.8 litre) V8 with Edelbrock Performer intake and square bore carb, all backed up with the 5 speed manual that lived behind a 5.0 H.O in an older Mustang. The neat thing there is that the highway mileage might well be better than the 1.8 litre Turbo. Hmmm. Point to ponder.
Glad to see you have struck gold this time with a really sound car with a lot of the potential problem areas (head gasket) fixed. This is too nice to move on I'd say, I would part with the Volvo or the 400 estate, maybe both?? Great content as always 👍
Yes this one should be a keeper, I think Matt is liking this one too much and appears to be relishing doing these lttle jobs to it unlike some of the others in the fleet.
Absolutely great content for the channel, and a fantastic car, too. I'm biased when it comes to cars in the Furious Fleet. I have a severe dislike of front wheel drive, a loathing for the 4.6 litre V8, and an affinity for Swedish Red Blocks. I think it would be very interesting once all 3 are fettled to do an head to head comparison of the 75, the P6 2000 and the P6 with the Rover 4.2 V8. For my money the 4.2 is the way to go, but with a North American GM Quadrajet intake and carburetor. The 4bbl was available when the original 215cid version ordered in the 61-63 Buick Special Skylark, with or without turbocharger.
That ducksback stuff is incredible. And you really have had a result with the 75 in terms of the body. The leak in the boot will be either tail light seals ( they split ), chrome trim pins on the rear quarter ( mine was leaking there just coated them in CT1) , rear window trim clips (again CT1 to the rescue otherwise its window out) , boot seal or boot plinth gasket.
Enjoying these updates. As both an MG ZT V8 and ZT 1.8T owner, the 1.8T K-Series Turbo engine IS as you say the best one to have ... as a daily driver. When I got the first 1.8T ten years ago, I read those strong opinions on-line and quite frankly, found them hard to believe. That considering the V6, BMW and Mustang V8 engine options available. Ten years later, I fully understand that point of view. There is a better MG engine option though. The Chinese version of the 1.8T K-Series from the MG6. Have fitted one to my ZT-T seven years ago. The SAIC made a very fine job of their version of the K-Series 1.8T. That Electric Window Switch Pack you casually threw away could almost certainly be revived with a little no cost TLC. EDIT TO ADD What progress on the Crown Victoria V8 regarding the Handbrake issue?
I had a BMW built 2000 X 75 1.8 Club SE. The dash was real polished walnut, the seats were cloth (I hate leather seats). It covered 172,000 miles over the ten years I owned it. Getting into it on a wet, cold day was like going into my living room and I would regularly drive from Victoria Embankment to the North Coast of Scotland on a single hop. Of all the cars I've owned, that and my current Forester have been the best. But for comfort and class, the 75 beats them all.
Had a 1.8 turbo Tourer. Great car. Clutch hydraulics were a weakness, went through two master cylinders. A pain to access above the clutch pedal. Sure you've heard of the 'orange clip' fix on the intank fuel pump, only thing that stranded us.
Keep the 75, you'd regret selling it. It's too handsome in that shade of blue (and now even more so with those shining headlights) and too good condition-wise to let go. And it already is something of a modern classic. A great swap/find, really and after the unfortunate turn of the beetle story, your luck with this one is well deserved. The one I'd trade instead would be the 400 tourer, but the choice is obviously all up to you 😀.
Really enjoying your stuff...it's actually a refreshing change to see such 'smaller scale' projects with more modest (but very interesting) cars...strangely therapeutic.
Can’t agree this engine is the best version. I had the BMW diesel. Totally reliable and went like a train on almost 50 mpg. And no head gasket nightmares.
To be fair if the initial head gasket issue is resolved properly you generally won't see it again. The amount of these that got misdiagnosed with HGF when it was just the green 'rubbery' gasket on the inlet manifold. They're absolutely worth changing yearly for how cheap and quick to do that they are.
Pity the Td5 wasn't engineered as a common-rail unit with a 20v head - could have installed transversely in the 75 and would have suited it well. 125 kW (170 PS) @ 4,000 / 350 Nm @ 1,900 (GETRAG & JATCO gearboxes' limit) would have ensured decent progress. Could have been used in the Defender a little longer and possibly even used in the Disco 3.
For the sake of the cost of new pads, I’d swap the existing ones out. I’ve had experience of pads degrading on a low mileage car that has stood around for a long time…the friction material just came off the backing plate in chunks.
Looks good. I owned a 2 litre V6 R75 which we took to Barcelona and back a brilliant car which still exists to this day thanks to a great enthusiast. Keep these R75s going they are classics already!
furious bmw er rover type thing. I had one a v6 at two years old and that overheated. sent it back and swapped it for a Mondeo 2.0. was a nice car while it lasted for a few weeks.
I'd get rid of the 400, keep the Volvo prices seem to be on the up and yours is a tidy example. The 400 needs work. Looks like a choice will have to be soon as turnaround gonna b quick on this one. Great series, varied cars 👍
Definitely keep the 75 Matt. Find another one with that mileage, history and condition. It’s the right colour and being a manual turbo is in the spec you prefer. This would make great channel content to turn it into a minter. 🍻
I was thinking throughout the video that I'd move the Volvo on and keep this if I were you. The Rover estate is a big project but it is my favourite Rover in the fleet so I hope that one will stay. Good luck with everything, I'll be watching whatever you decide 🙂
The Volvo is, worse luck, a 2.0 litre. Because of that, I might be tempted to agree with you. Were it a 2.3 litre, different ballgame. The 2 litre is underpowered, therefore thirsty. My 400,000 mile 240 Estate with auto gearbox uses less petrol that Matt's 740 with the 5 speed manual. We're I ever to get a 75, well, it would be a 75. I want the MG V8, preferably with blown 4.6 litre. It would get a 5.8 litre (351 Windsor) V8. That would match or exceed the fuel economy of the turbo 4. In an 89 Grand Marquis (box that Matt's Crown Vic came in) the 5.8 litre was good for 40 miles to the gallon on the motorway in almost stock form.
As it has the K-series engine, (and turbo charged too), a head gasket failure can't be too far away, unless somebody has previously fitted the updated gasket and oil rail.
Lovely Old car Matt! You can see how well the previous owner loved it. I am looking to buy a second hand car soon and a bissell is a must! Thanks for featuring it during the cleaning section of the video.
I think you should have mentioned the plug removal from the window switch cluster. This can be difficult for the newcomer to the job. The black plug can only be removed by pressing in the lobes on each side, near the top. I had problems with the white plug. It has a retainer but I don't think it is accessible. I had to use the sharp end of a metal nail file, pushed between the plug and the socket, then used to lever out the plug.
Matt, a quick tip regards the plenum drains. Under the car the exit for the fluid can stick together causing a blockage. I cut mine at an angle which prevents this from happening
Always always liked the 75 and still lust after one. I think it’s one of the nicest shapes &proportions on the road even today. The only thing that puts me off is some reports of dicey reliability. But wow, from the front especially it’s a gorgeous car
Oh my goodness. reminds me of antimacassars grannies used to have on their chairs. Macassar was even before Brylcreem, but the cloth napkins on the chair backs and arms still kept the same name and stayed as a fixture long after people stopped using the stuff.
Such a shame that we didn’t get the 1.8 turbo in Australia. I have a 2002 rover 75 V6 in top spec Connoisseur SE trim it is metallic burgundy red with leather & wood everywhere. It’s a dream to drive & is one of my regular drivers. It has 140,000 miles on it never put a foot wrong. As with any of my cars I service them every 5000 miles regardless of what the sticker says. Being a mechanic myself
Agreed. There's a reason puzzled folks accuse me of having very reliable British Cars over the past four decades or so. Amateur mechanic me changes the engine oil and filter every 6-7000 miles. Oil is far cheaper than Turbochargers and engines. Those silly high oil change mileages are designed to attract the bea counting purchasing offices buying fleets for their companies. 15.000 miles during the first few years of fleet use is fine for oil services but, once those cars reach the used car market with different levels of use, 15,000 mile oil change intervals will accelerate engine wear massively. Several new cars bought with K-Series engines in the family still giving reliable high mileages past their twentieth birthdays. Rocket science it aint but is to some types who do not know where the bonnet release is on their cars. The latter confirmed by my neighbour who drives one of those very familiar big yellow Roadside Rescue vans.
@@T16MGJ agreed 100% although I still service many fleet cars in Australia every 5000-6000 miles. They have much better resale value when it comes time to trade in.
Well worth cleaning and lubricating the bonnet release mechanism, they can be a nightmare when one side sticks. Also, rear light to body seals is likely to be where the boot leaks are from.
Water ingress on my 75 was from two places. The chrome trim along the side of the car at the boot is screwed in and these seals fail. With where your water appeared to be coming in, I would say it's a leaking rear-light seal. These are a very strange material and split easily after 20+years. I initially glued it, which did not work, then flipped the seals on the headlights and applied gutter sealant. This worked a treat although you have to be a fairly steady hand with a mastic gun. You can buy the replacement seals too but I grumbled at the price, and of course, the fact they failed in the first place! If you want to clean it up a little while you're there a toothbrush is ideal. My handbrake was also atrocious when I bought my car. The 75 and ZT club forums hold the answer, compensator mod!
Having driven literally hundreds of these when they were new (car hire) they still stand out as a fine car to me. I did enjoy the automatic version more, as it suited the car well. Definitely on par with the Germans back in the day.
your poor handbrake will be down to a stretched mild steel adjuster - stainless ones are available but faffy to fit. Your water ingress could be rear light gaskets or could be where the chrome trim clips poke through the side of the car. Other problems include bonnet release cable coming detached under the bonnet and being unable to undo the bonnet. Petrol filter comes unscrewed and the car won't start. They rust around the jacking points.
I tend to use thick strimmer wire for clearing drain holes. Works especially well with sunroofs where the drainage channels go all the way from the roof to the chassis. Still looks like a good one you've got there Matt. Just stick a leather interior in it and keep it, you know you want to. 😂
I really love this car. I have had two rover 75s in the past and I regret selling them both. Looking at this one really puts me in the notion to buy another!
Immediate like for the use of the word “interfrastically” and I’d like it again if I could because of Paul being a total legend! What a lovely car this is.
Looks like a decent example you got yourself. Check rear suspension arms ( the ones the coil spring sits in) they fail over time and is an expensive job. Keep that window control unit, you can fit a new button and it's as good as new (garage broke mine).
Would be a nice keeper if you can Matt. Maybe swop L to R with the headrests to equalise wear. Love the colour, engine and manual trans. What’s not to like?????
Definitely keep this over the 400. Although it's an estate it's got too much in common with other fleet members. Plus these really are gorgeous. Just remember if the alternator goes Ian is an expert....
Love these cars: I’ve had a 75 2.0 KV6 and a ZTT 2.0CDTi. I’d still have one if the latter was ULEZ compliant! Non- working passenger lock likely the c/l door motor: it’s the same as your Freelander’s and the same as fitted to the R50-53 Mini Boot leak may be a leaking chrome waist trim fastener I suspect misfire is a coil pack on a MEMS3 engine. Glad this one is a k16! ❤
Great video Matt, looks like it's possibly a keeper, for a while at least ! One word of warning though, before you start work on swapping the steering wheel. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's procedure to fully disarm the SRS circuits, and allow enough time for any capacitor stored charge to drop away. Most vehicles of that age will just require the battery completely disconnected at both terminals, and wait the manufacturer specified time of 30+ minutes. Sudden disconnection, or connection of any electrical plug when stored charge is still in the system, will cause enough electrical spike to trigger the pyrotechnics that deploy all the AirBags and Seatbelt Tensioners etc. They go off with more than enough force to do you a serious injury, break bones, knock out teeth etc, if you're too close to an airbag as it fires.
Nothing like shampooing the furnishings just draw air through at the end of cleaning to aid faster drying of upholstery and rinse machine with clean water to help water pump last longer.
Enjoying your channel with good advice. my 75 wasn't solid after only owning for a 18months. To get through MOT each jacking points had to be replaced as rust had made therm redundant. Steering wheel is like yours but my boot floor handle has come into two. Need to replace if i can find replacements.
@@marklittler784 Finding a half decent MG ZT 1.8T for a mere £1500 would be very difficult to do now. He did well with that £1500 swap. Good for him.That is peanuts for a car like that. I remember his surprised expressions and reactions when he TH-cam posted his first drive in a 1.8T 75. Who knew? Some of us did. 😉👍
There are 10 water entry points in the 75 saloons boot. They're a bloody nightmare, most common is just the light seals. If you're getting the T-Piece (located correctly btw) from DMGRS I think they've got the seals too. If it is one of the other points there's a whole thread on the forum about how to fix them. Always advisable as having a damp boot is always a pain!
Think you've a good'un there, Brylcream is a bugger to wash out, i know you don't use it but maybe a couple of antimacasers for the front seats will keep those head restraints clean or a couple of Furious beanies stretched over them. Most dirt comes from hands when reaching into the rear or rear seat passengers grabbing them. Your trolley underfloor washer will come in useful as looks a bit mucky underneath.
IIRC the R40/R41 75 (saloon exterior: Richard Woolley / Tourer exterior: Ian Callum (was mocked at Jaguar for it)) and R50 MINI (exterior: Frank Stephenson) had the same interior design team - look at the dashboard shapes and overall silhouette!
Morning Matt, Re your dilemma, The 75 is a quality car with nowt needed done.(Superficial stuff). Practically no outlay. The other 2 you mentioned particularly the Rover estate is gonna need big bucks and personally in cash terms it' a no brainer. £3/4k value possibility or 2k outlay. You can do the maths ive already done them. Thanks for the vid . Lookn forward to your next one. Later👍
Have you considered upgrading the interior to all leather as the leather seats really do lift the look and feel of these 75s. I think you could get a suitable second hand set of seats that would add value and make it more desirable when it comes to selling the car.
@@peterriggall8409 my Rover 75 was a Club SE with the velour seats, but after sitting in a Connoisseur (in a scrap yard - I needed the door seal) I definitely want the leather seats if I were to buy another 75!
Yeah, get rid of the 400 and keep this one, Matt. It's too good to let go. Also great spec. You can always start over at a lower level if the 400 doesn't sell very well, it doesn't matter to me. The content will be enjoyable anyway 😀👍🏻
Matt you have worked wonders already and improved a really nice car you can’t let that one go to get a 75 in that condition and provenance would be very difficult and I think you would regret it The 400 tourer needs a load of work and the Volvo is a great car but this would be a good daily and classic with ulez I hope you keep it I love the 75 and my family worked on the longbridge built cars from when they moved from cowley
What a find - lovely motor. Keep/sell dilemma wouldn't be a dilemma for me - I'd keep this and bid a fond farewell to the 400 estate. No-brainer as far as I'm concerned!
This is one very good example, at the moment it’s looking to be a straightforward restoration too, hopefully!!. Well done finding this one Matt, dare I say, I think it’s a keeper ❤.
Thanks Matt, I’m consistently impressed by your patience and attention to detail, I wish I had the same qualities! I think you’ve got a tidy example of a 75 there, that blue is a nice colour, when I’m interested in buying any Rover product I always ask for Cambelt and Head gasket history about the car, if those haven’t been done I generally walk away. Glad you didn’t end up with a “rotbox” this time.
I've had a similar quandary in my little collection Matt. I put them all into two piles, ones I definitely do not want to sell, and ones that I would. The proceeds from the sales will pay for the keepers to be made just right. You know my collection Matt, the van is going I'm afraid.
Awesome vlog as always you've definitely got your hands on a decent rover this time reckon that's nearly a 3 grand car if you can manage to part with it
P.S. I meant to say if you have not done so you should watch High Peak Autos critique ( very critique 😅 ) on "Should you buy a Rover 75 " - a very good and honest (blunt) summary. P.P.S. I still like all the faux plastic wood and always have and think the Rover 75 is a great looking car.
I'd be tempted to push all three cars down now. Volvo, Rover 400 and the Rover 75. Especially if your wanting material for the TH-cam channel and want to make money for your projects.
Was it a Rover Management car? Would be great to see an underside restoration, a lot of dealers look at the top, it’s polished but the chassis/ suspension stay’s rusty….. I feel it’s often overlooked..
My Mum has a low mileage 75 (65k) and I have a high mileage (400K) 820 Vitesse. The 75 , compared to my 820 is cramped , claustrophobic, gutless and heavy car to drive with a gearbox that is ponderous and long in the tooth . My 820 is delightful, light clutch, Tomcat engine , much bigger car and able to lug huge heavy loads down the Motorway to my boat every weekend in absolute comfort . Would I want a 75 ? Not until the last 800 had come my way !
Adding this comment who thinks Matt should create a poll to either sell the 75 or to keep! I know he has said he brought it to flip but it’s to good to sell and think he will regret selling it and never replace it with a better one.
I love how Rover themed your fleet is becoming. Two P6s, the Tomcat, 200Vi, Tourer, BMW Mini (to an extent), Morris Mini (to an extent) and now this. It just seems like far too good a car to part with too. It's a hard one to call for what should go instead but I'm tempted to say the 145.
@@furiousdriving I have to confess that, despite being a petrol head, I have never driven an Alfa Romeo. Shocking I know. Therefore I've probably not been seduced by as much magic and only see the niggles. In addition, i know how much you've done to this car and how much you searched for one before getting it too so I can see why you would want to keep it. I know you have road trips planned for the Volvo before you contemplate selling too
all the wiring should be there for full memory electric leather heated seats plus rear electric blind plus you can replace lights with ones from china 75 and climate panel as well..... all easy :) just saying...... :) :P
A nice surprise that it's in good condition. The toughest repair is probably those brake lines, otherwise it's cleaning and bolt ons. Can't ask for more!
When I upgraded my ZT 1.8T to ZT190 Front Brakes, no way would that Brake Line Union be undone due to corrosion exposure to road filth, salt and moisture in the Wheel Arch. I had to use an angle cutting disc which destroyed both the metal and flexible rubber hoses. Enjoyed fashioning a new Cupro-Nickle Brake Line and I already had a good Flexible brake hose that came with the ZT190 set up. The upgrade provided the overall feedback "feel" and initial bite when using the brakes that I prefer. The OEM Brake set up works well but the ZT190 ones are better. There's ZT 190 Brakes on my V8 260. The massive rear calipers on the V8 are the same as those on the front of my son's Lotus Elise S2.
I’ve just bought myself a29;000 mile rover 114 sli. It’s spent periods of time in storage so it’s totally rust free and still has the spot welds showing on the wheel arches. It had a cam belt change at 26;000. But that was in 2008 so before I drie it I think it needs changing .
Looking good all round, did you note the weeping R/N/S damper? Or was that just an overspray of cleaner. Sorry to mention if it's already in the comments below.
Absolutely love your videos, by far my favourite channel, but please please please stress the importance of supporting the vehicle with an axle stand, I’ve seen far too many accidents over the years
Maybe it’s just me, but I would never accept those brake rotors/pads. New hardware all around and pump through fresh fluid is always my very first move!
Think you're more of a Rover man than a Volvo owner so I'd move on the 7 series. I also think that it wouldn't be a bad idea to rationalise some of your projects and move a couple on, the 400 estate is a lovely car, always preferred it to the touring 3 series BMW in looks, but I think when you have the MB, the Mini and the fleet to look after you need at least one big reliable motor...as long as that head gasket holds out 😉
I would get rid of the 400 tourer and keep the Volvo. The Volvo is mint and I can’t imagine you could get another easily. But the 400 is pretty bad (in comparison). Although I would ask, what’s the point of keeping them? What are you going to do with them apart from work on them? I would love to see some road trips / adventures with them.
There's a Rover specialist near to Nantwich and amongst various nice MGs and the like there's a bona-fide Tourer V8 in the same colour as yours which I presume belongs to someone who works there or owns the place. Absolutely glorious! Lovely 1.8T there, these still look slick! It's odd that earlier 25 and 45 lights don't yellow but the 75's did. Could you get the wheel re-trimmed with a modern dimpled leather? Worth a gander!
TOURER V8?!?! *zooms to Nantwich* Shame MG Rover didn't plump for the 3v SOHC version (225 kW (306 PS) / 435 Nm) with its 6-speed manual and 5-speed auto!
@@applejuice5272 Rover On Ltd, worth looking up! It is a shame the multi valve head wasn't the weapon of choice like you say though. I keep thinking about the fact that the VHPD engine that is the Ford Coyote engine would drop straight in the 75/ZT V8 platform! 😊
@@furiousdriving I think the later post project drive stuff yellows, usually where the 25 and 45 are concerned. The lights on my early pre-project 'drivel' y2k Rover 25 are still clear as glass though! Never treated or even polished either. Bizarre!
This blue makes for a very pretty car. I'm sure the old boy who had it before you must have been very proud of it! I can see you finding this one very hard to sell on. It's certainly a modern classic, a car people could be admiring at classic car shows a dozen years from now, if looked after - a task I suspect you would greatly relish.
As loads have probably already told you, the water ingress in the boot will almost certainly be down to failed gaskets on the light clusters
Tiger seal to the rescue!
They fail because there was a bending op post paint to compensate for a twisted boot lid through the curing process. This happened because they only used a one sided support to prop open the boot lid through the ovens.
This channel is quickly becoming my favourite! Great honest reviews with a great approach to realistic content. Well done Mat.
Same for me think it’s because there is no click bait and just Matt being honest and relatable
I had a Rover 75, same colour with BMW diesel engine in some 20yrs ago, was one of the best modern cars I have ever owned!!!!!!!
The bulk head drain tubes were a known problem even then, I took mine into Rover and there solution was the pipes underneath they ran a Stanley knife through them!!!!!! So pipes still there but split open!!!!!!!!!
To be fair to Rover, it worked!!! They never blocked again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It looks in great condition all round! Just a point about the plenum drains, I'm not sure if you know but there's another one on the passenger side further in that's right under the ECU. That's the one that can cause the ECU to become flooded if it blocks. You need to take a few panels off the scuttle to get access but overall it's an easy job.
Hope Matt got your message
Matt, you KNOW it makes sense to keep it. Much as I’m loving this trading up series you’ll have to hang on to it..find another this good if you can. Dilemma is what goes??
Just a quick tip, on our Rover 75 Classic there used to be a swimming pool just below the master cylinder on the driver's side, I discovered there is a rubber pipe just below the power steering pot on the bulkhead. Also watch Ian's (Hubnut) upload regarding how to remove the plastic just below the windscreen, (the garage that serviced the Rover managed to break the item, than repaired it badly so I guess it's quite brittle plastic). Good luck with your car, it's in great condition.
Agitation is key to good extraction and fabric cleaning. Spray a good fabric cleaner on and allow it to dwell for a few minutes, agitate with an appropriate brush (not too soft otherwise it wont do much, not to stiff or it will ruin the fabric), and then extract. Drenching fabric and simply extracting it isn't going to make the most of the detergents that you are using. If you don't have a steam cleaner I'd invest in one of those as well - wrap a microfibre towel over the end and agitate fabrics with it and you will be surprised as to how much gunk comes out.
You got a good car, mine has a few niggles too but it’s a 20 year old car so to be expected, I hope you keep it.
KEEP IT!
Sorry to shout, Matt, but it is a perfect fit with your Rover collection, so please, please keep it!
It is in great condition and wont take much to bring back to something befitting a gentleman’s car of that age.
Like someone else said, get shut of the Volvo or the Alfa. This car demands a permanent home in your Rover museum.
Nice one, Matt!
Had one for about 6 years, with the diesel cdti engine ,and autobox what a pleasure to drive, best car i have ever had still regret selling it. The 75 and ZT club is a great forum to follow with loads of help and advice.
You'd be bonkers to sell this! I had an early one in the same colour that I bought for a mere £550 to quickly replace my written off ZT and I was massively impressed with how it drove; very different in character. Miss that car!
Many years ago I had a W reg CDI, great car very solid and went surprisingly well. Only one problem was the ignition key would get stuck in the barrel. Managed to cure it with 3 in 1 oil, although I put so much in it dripped for months. Good luck with yours.
This is very tight as well, I though it was aftermarket keys
Great vid as always! I own a 1.4 petrol 2002 Rover 25 which is currently off the road as I now work from home and no longer need it for commuting. It was a hand-me-down car from a late grandparent. It suffered a coolant leak a few years back, which lead me to believe it was the dreaded HG issue, so I simply chucked in some gasket weld and it’s been fine ever since. No leaks and the temp stays below the half way line 👍🏻. I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it. It starts on the button every time, even if it’s been left for weeks. They look great these old Rovers do and I’m glad to see that there are still many enthusiasts out there who are willing to keep them on the road 👍🏻
Just for the sake of future reference for others. 90% of the time you should never put any "gasket repair" or "gasket seal" into a K-Series. Particularly K-Seal. If you are willing to risk it steel seal is the least deadly in a limited quantity.
The K has very fine water ways and if you're unlucky those repair liquids can congeal and block them, that will hotspot the head and destroy it. I've seen it happen many times unfortunately.
Sounds like you've been safe which is good to hear. I'd just prefer to warn people! It's always a bummer to hear when someone has had their engine cooked because of K-Seal.
@@SpitfireFortyFour You are right 👍I would normally have got the car sorted out properly, but it would have cost more than the cars worth. So it was either try that or sell it for spares or repair. Luckily for me its been running fine ever since and ticks over perfectly on idle
@@SpitfireFortyFour Sound advice. There is a myth within consumer and in the trade circles that K-Series Cylinder Head Gaskets are prone to "Failure". That is misleading and repeated many times on all forms of media.
Misleading because they rarely ever fail. ON ANY CAR. They are invariably first DAMAGED by some other process. That invariably being OVERHEATING following coolant loss. The excess heat will damage engine components and the first one to suffer is the poor old gasket which ALWAYS gets the blame unfairly.
Folks accuse me and our K-Series cars in the family fleet as being "lucky" that our British cars are so reliable. It is not just luck. We check things as recommended by ALL manufacturers.
Cue Clarkson's rodent sidekick blurting out on BBC's Top Gear things like
"MGFs are RUBBISH"
Broadcast to the World. Cue also comments like this from brainwashed ...
These folks are highly paid professionals so obviously know what they are on about.
Wrong in spades.
Looks like a good add-value purchase with bits to fix plus an intensive clean in and out (DiamondBrite deployed!). Interior smell - Rover 75 + pipe sounds about right 😊
With the water ingress in the boot I highly recommend pulling the inner trim away from the wing (this was the same side as mine) and check where the chrome trim on the outside clips in on the wing, took me ages to figure out where the water was coming from (I changed the light seals hoping it was that but I saw the water dripping from one of the clips from the trim. If it is from there I just chucked some mastic sealer in the clip and it's been dry since
same here.
Water ingress in your boot is the light cluster seals,I took mine off and cleaned them then smeared sealant into them & reversed them & placed them on the opposite sides, sorted 👍
That is a great car, Matt. I've lived the look of a 75 since I first saw one on Dalziel and Pascoe. Tom Barnaby in Midsomer Murders had a couple of them, one pre- and one post-facelift. With most of that surface rust, get rid of the loose stuff and then either POR-15 or Krown Rustproofing to the rescue. Krown WORKS. It was invented to counteract the dreadful winter weather here that can destroy a car in 10 years. It has kept my 240DL Estate in one piece for 33 years and counting.
With my dislike, even hatred, of front wheel drive and the Ford 4.6 litre, I wonder if I could take the rear wheel drive MG version, yank the engine and transmission, and drop in a late 80s spec 351W (5.8 litre) V8 with Edelbrock Performer intake and square bore carb, all backed up with the 5 speed manual that lived behind a 5.0 H.O in an older Mustang. The neat thing there is that the highway mileage might well be better than the 1.8 litre Turbo. Hmmm. Point to ponder.
Glad to see you have struck gold this time with a really sound car with a lot of the potential problem areas (head gasket) fixed. This is too nice to move on I'd say, I would part with the Volvo or the 400 estate, maybe both?? Great content as always 👍
Yes this one should be a keeper, I think Matt is liking this one too much and appears to be relishing doing these lttle jobs to it unlike some of the others in the fleet.
Absolutely great content for the channel, and a fantastic car, too. I'm biased when it comes to cars in the Furious Fleet. I have a severe dislike of front wheel drive, a loathing for the 4.6 litre V8, and an affinity for Swedish Red Blocks. I think it would be very interesting once all 3 are fettled to do an head to head comparison of the 75, the P6 2000 and the P6 with the Rover 4.2 V8. For my money the 4.2 is the way to go, but with a North American GM Quadrajet intake and carburetor. The 4bbl was available when the original 215cid version ordered in the 61-63 Buick Special Skylark, with or without turbocharger.
The Volvo is too good to flip. Maybe flip the 400 tourer and the Freelander though, and keep this?
The Volvo and the old Merc are the forever cars.
The Volvo and the old Merc are the forever cars.
That ducksback stuff is incredible. And you really have had a result with the 75 in terms of the body. The leak in the boot will be either tail light seals ( they split ), chrome trim pins on the rear quarter ( mine was leaking there just coated them in CT1) , rear window trim clips (again CT1 to the rescue otherwise its window out) , boot seal or boot plinth gasket.
Enjoying these updates. As both an MG ZT V8 and ZT 1.8T owner, the 1.8T K-Series Turbo engine IS as you say the best one to have ... as a daily driver.
When I got the first 1.8T ten years ago, I read those strong opinions on-line and quite frankly, found them hard to believe. That considering the V6, BMW and Mustang V8 engine options available.
Ten years later, I fully understand that point of view.
There is a better MG engine option though. The Chinese version of the 1.8T K-Series from the MG6. Have fitted one to my ZT-T seven years ago.
The SAIC made a very fine job of their version of the K-Series 1.8T.
That Electric Window Switch Pack you casually threw away could almost certainly be revived with a little no cost TLC.
EDIT TO ADD What progress on the Crown Victoria V8 regarding the Handbrake issue?
I had a BMW built 2000 X 75 1.8 Club SE. The dash was real polished walnut, the seats were cloth (I hate leather seats). It covered 172,000 miles over the ten years I owned it. Getting into it on a wet, cold day was like going into my living room and I would regularly drive from Victoria Embankment to the North Coast of Scotland on a single hop. Of all the cars I've owned, that and my current Forester have been the best. But for comfort and class, the 75 beats them all.
Had a 1.8 turbo Tourer. Great car. Clutch hydraulics were a weakness, went through two master cylinders. A pain to access above the clutch pedal. Sure you've heard of the 'orange clip' fix on the intank fuel pump, only thing that stranded us.
Those simple fixes like the window controls are so satisfying 😊
Morale boosters, I would say.
Keep the 75, you'd regret selling it. It's too handsome in that shade of blue (and now even more so with those shining headlights) and too good condition-wise to let go. And it already is something of a modern classic. A great swap/find, really and after the unfortunate turn of the beetle story, your luck with this one is well deserved. The one I'd trade instead would be the 400 tourer, but the choice is obviously all up to you 😀.
Really enjoying your stuff...it's actually a refreshing change to see such 'smaller scale' projects with more modest (but very interesting) cars...strangely therapeutic.
Agreed. Low cost, high value and quality motoring IS out there if you know what you're doing. More of the same most welcome.
Can’t agree this engine is the best version. I had the BMW diesel. Totally reliable and went like a train on almost 50 mpg. And no head gasket nightmares.
Ive got that in my Freelander. Its good but not exciting or ULEZ
To be fair if the initial head gasket issue is resolved properly you generally won't see it again.
The amount of these that got misdiagnosed with HGF when it was just the green 'rubbery' gasket on the inlet manifold.
They're absolutely worth changing yearly for how cheap and quick to do that they are.
i've got a diesel 75 , very good cars, 60 +MPG,
Pity the Td5 wasn't engineered as a common-rail unit with a 20v head - could have installed transversely in the 75 and would have suited it well. 125 kW (170 PS) @ 4,000 / 350 Nm @ 1,900 (GETRAG & JATCO gearboxes' limit) would have ensured decent progress.
Could have been used in the Defender a little longer and possibly even used in the Disco 3.
Rover used a better Turbo than BMW on the Diesel engine , my old 75 was on 220,000 and miles still on the original one !
For the sake of the cost of new pads, I’d swap the existing ones out. I’ve had experience of pads degrading on a low mileage car that has stood around for a long time…the friction material just came off the backing plate in chunks.
I had that on the missus's R50 cooper, the friction material just let go. That said, it was a thin fillet of friction material!
Looks good. I owned a 2 litre V6 R75 which we took to Barcelona and back a brilliant car which still exists to this day thanks to a great enthusiast. Keep these R75s going they are classics already!
furious bmw er rover type thing. I had one a v6 at two years old and that overheated. sent it back and swapped it for a Mondeo 2.0. was a nice car while it lasted for a few weeks.
I've just fixed the mirros on my 75, took the switch unit apart and cleaned the connections with isopropyl alcohol, mirrors works fine now
I'd get rid of the 400, keep the Volvo prices seem to be on the up and yours is a tidy example. The 400 needs work. Looks like a choice will have to be soon as turnaround gonna b quick on this one. Great series, varied cars 👍
Definitely keep the 75 Matt. Find another one with that mileage, history and condition. It’s the right colour and being a manual turbo is in the spec you prefer. This would make great channel content to turn it into a minter. 🍻
I was thinking throughout the video that I'd move the Volvo on and keep this if I were you. The Rover estate is a big project but it is my favourite Rover in the fleet so I hope that one will stay. Good luck with everything, I'll be watching whatever you decide 🙂
The Volvo is, worse luck, a 2.0 litre. Because of that, I might be tempted to agree with you. Were it a 2.3 litre, different ballgame. The 2 litre is underpowered, therefore thirsty. My 400,000 mile 240 Estate with auto gearbox uses less petrol that Matt's 740 with the 5 speed manual. We're I ever to get a 75, well, it would be a 75. I want the MG V8, preferably with blown 4.6 litre. It would get a 5.8 litre (351 Windsor) V8. That would match or exceed the fuel economy of the turbo 4. In an 89 Grand Marquis (box that Matt's Crown Vic came in) the 5.8 litre was good for 40 miles to the gallon on the motorway in almost stock form.
As it has the K-series engine, (and turbo charged too), a head gasket failure can't be too far away, unless somebody has previously fitted the updated gasket and oil rail.
Lovely Old car Matt! You can see how well the previous owner loved it. I am looking to buy a second hand car soon and a bissell is a must! Thanks for featuring it during the cleaning section of the video.
The drain holes can be a problem on a Mazda MX5 - I cleaned mine with a flexible trombone brush! (£4 off eBay) suggested by someone in the owners club
16:15 That isn't the fuel pump. That's the evaporative emissions charcoal canister. The pump is in the tank.
I think you should have mentioned the plug removal from the window switch cluster. This can be difficult for the newcomer to the job. The black plug can only be removed by pressing in the lobes on each side, near the top. I had problems with the white plug. It has a retainer but I don't think it is accessible. I had to use the sharp end of a metal nail file, pushed between the plug and the socket, then used to lever out the plug.
Matt, a quick tip regards the plenum drains. Under the car the exit for the fluid can stick together causing a blockage. I cut mine at an angle which prevents this from happening
Always always liked the 75 and still lust after one. I think it’s one of the nicest shapes &proportions on the road even today. The only thing that puts me off is some reports of dicey reliability. But wow, from the front especially it’s a gorgeous car
Oh my goodness. reminds me of antimacassars grannies used to have on their chairs. Macassar was even before Brylcreem, but the cloth napkins on the chair backs and arms still kept the same name and stayed as a fixture long after people stopped using the stuff.
Such a shame that we didn’t get the 1.8 turbo in Australia. I have a 2002 rover 75 V6 in top spec Connoisseur SE trim it is metallic burgundy red with leather & wood everywhere. It’s a dream to drive & is one of my regular drivers. It has 140,000 miles on it never put a foot wrong. As with any of my cars I service them every 5000 miles regardless of what the sticker says. Being a mechanic myself
Agreed. There's a reason puzzled folks accuse me of having very reliable British Cars over the past four decades or so. Amateur mechanic me changes the engine oil and filter every 6-7000 miles. Oil is far cheaper than Turbochargers and engines. Those silly high oil change mileages are designed to attract the bea counting purchasing offices buying fleets for their companies. 15.000 miles during the first few years of fleet use is fine for oil services but, once those cars reach the used car market with different levels of use, 15,000 mile oil change intervals will accelerate engine wear massively. Several new cars bought with K-Series engines in the family still giving reliable high mileages past their twentieth birthdays.
Rocket science it aint but is to some types who do not know where the bonnet release is on their cars. The latter confirmed by my neighbour who drives one of those very familiar big yellow Roadside Rescue vans.
@@T16MGJ agreed 100% although I still service many fleet cars in Australia every 5000-6000 miles. They have much better resale value when it comes time to trade in.
Well worth cleaning and lubricating the bonnet release mechanism, they can be a nightmare when one side sticks. Also, rear light to body seals is likely to be where the boot leaks are from.
Water ingress on my 75 was from two places. The chrome trim along the side of the car at the boot is screwed in and these seals fail. With where your water appeared to be coming in, I would say it's a leaking rear-light seal. These are a very strange material and split easily after 20+years.
I initially glued it, which did not work, then flipped the seals on the headlights and applied gutter sealant. This worked a treat although you have to be a fairly steady hand with a mastic gun. You can buy the replacement seals too but I grumbled at the price, and of course, the fact they failed in the first place! If you want to clean it up a little while you're there a toothbrush is ideal.
My handbrake was also atrocious when I bought my car. The 75 and ZT club forums hold the answer, compensator mod!
Having driven literally hundreds of these when they were new (car hire) they still stand out as a fine car to me. I did enjoy the automatic version more, as it suited the car well. Definitely on par with the Germans back in the day.
So, on par with itself 😊
@@GoldenCroc
Mostly an all Rover product with some German input and influence.
@@GoldenCroc Pretty much. Although they where built in the UK
your poor handbrake will be down to a stretched mild steel adjuster - stainless ones are available but faffy to fit. Your water ingress could be rear light gaskets or could be where the chrome trim clips poke through the side of the car. Other problems include bonnet release cable coming detached under the bonnet and being unable to undo the bonnet. Petrol filter comes unscrewed and the car won't start. They rust around the jacking points.
I tend to use thick strimmer wire for clearing drain holes. Works especially well with sunroofs where the drainage channels go all the way from the roof to the chassis.
Still looks like a good one you've got there Matt. Just stick a leather interior in it and keep it, you know you want to. 😂
I really love this car. I have had two rover 75s in the past and I regret selling them both. Looking at this one really puts me in the notion to buy another!
Immediate like for the use of the word “interfrastically” and I’d like it again if I could because of Paul being a total legend! What a lovely car this is.
Looks like a decent example you got yourself. Check rear suspension arms ( the ones the coil spring sits in) they fail over time and is an expensive job. Keep that window control unit, you can fit a new button and it's as good as new (garage broke mine).
Would be a nice keeper if you can Matt. Maybe swop L to R with the headrests to equalise wear. Love the colour, engine and manual trans. What’s not to like?????
Definitely keep this over the 400. Although it's an estate it's got too much in common with other fleet members.
Plus these really are gorgeous.
Just remember if the alternator goes Ian is an expert....
Love these cars: I’ve had a 75 2.0 KV6 and a ZTT 2.0CDTi. I’d still have one if the latter was ULEZ compliant!
Non- working passenger lock likely the c/l door motor: it’s the same as your Freelander’s and the same as fitted to the R50-53 Mini
Boot leak may be a leaking chrome waist trim fastener
I suspect misfire is a coil pack on a MEMS3 engine.
Glad this one is a k16! ❤
could of also been an old code if it didn't come back when you reset it Matt, as it would of shown a misfire when the head gasket went.
Great video Matt, looks like it's possibly a keeper, for a while at least ! One word of warning though, before you start work on swapping the steering wheel. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's procedure to fully disarm the SRS circuits, and allow enough time for any capacitor stored charge to drop away. Most vehicles of that age will just require the battery completely disconnected at both terminals, and wait the manufacturer specified time of 30+ minutes. Sudden disconnection, or connection of any electrical plug when stored charge is still in the system, will cause enough electrical spike to trigger the pyrotechnics that deploy all the AirBags and Seatbelt Tensioners etc. They go off with more than enough force to do you a serious injury, break bones, knock out teeth etc, if you're too close to an airbag as it fires.
If you get it working and the niggles sorted out it should be a very comfortable ride, but not much else. I had a conny 2ltr in 2005.
Nothing like shampooing the furnishings just draw air through at the end of cleaning to aid faster drying of upholstery and rinse machine with clean water to help water pump last longer.
Enjoying your channel with good advice. my 75 wasn't solid after only owning for a 18months. To get through MOT each jacking points had to be replaced as rust had made therm redundant. Steering wheel is like yours but my boot floor handle has come into two. Need to replace if i can find replacements.
If im honest I thought you would have gone for a ZT over the 75, but I think you've done quite well here Matt, keep up the great work.
If I was looking I probably would have, but this found me
@@furiousdriving true 👍
But in this condition though ?
@@marklittler784 Finding a half decent MG ZT 1.8T for a mere £1500 would be very difficult to do now. He did well with that £1500 swap. Good for him.That is peanuts for a car like that. I remember his surprised expressions and reactions when he TH-cam posted his first drive in a 1.8T 75. Who knew? Some of us did. 😉👍
There are 10 water entry points in the 75 saloons boot. They're a bloody nightmare, most common is just the light seals. If you're getting the T-Piece (located correctly btw) from DMGRS I think they've got the seals too.
If it is one of the other points there's a whole thread on the forum about how to fix them. Always advisable as having a damp boot is always a pain!
Before using the bissell cleaner take a stiff brush dipped in hot water and scrub with the brush, then the Bessell. More effective.
Think you've a good'un there, Brylcream is a bugger to wash out, i know you don't use it but maybe a couple of antimacasers for the front seats will keep those head restraints clean or a couple of Furious beanies stretched over them. Most dirt comes from hands when reaching into the rear or rear seat passengers grabbing them. Your trolley underfloor washer will come in useful as looks a bit mucky underneath.
IIRC the R40/R41 75 (saloon exterior: Richard Woolley / Tourer exterior: Ian Callum (was mocked at Jaguar for it)) and R50 MINI (exterior: Frank Stephenson) had the same interior design team - look at the dashboard shapes and overall silhouette!
Morning Matt, Re your dilemma, The 75 is a quality car with nowt needed done.(Superficial stuff). Practically no outlay. The other 2 you mentioned particularly the Rover estate is gonna need big bucks and personally in cash terms it' a no brainer. £3/4k value possibility or 2k outlay. You can do the maths ive already done them. Thanks for the vid . Lookn forward to your next one. Later👍
Have you considered upgrading the interior to all leather as the leather seats really do lift the look and feel of these 75s. I think you could get a suitable second hand set of seats that would add value and make it more desirable when it comes to selling the car.
For practicality and comfort I would actually prefer the velour. I would certainly change it entirely if it were in bad nick but it seems pretty good.
@@peterriggall8409 my Rover 75 was a Club SE with the velour seats, but after sitting in a Connoisseur (in a scrap yard - I needed the door seal) I definitely want the leather seats if I were to buy another 75!
Water ingress in the boot might be due to the seals on the rear lamp clusters. I had the same with my ZT
Yeah, get rid of the 400 and keep this one, Matt. It's too good to let go. Also great spec. You can always start over at a lower level if the 400 doesn't sell very well, it doesn't matter to me. The content will be enjoyable anyway 😀👍🏻
I think you need to keep it, The rover 75s are getting collectable and that does seem a nice one, it would fit in with your collection nicely
The 75 in all its generations is a beautiful and dare I say it? A timeless looking car.
JLR, forget yet more expensive SUV's and bring back Rover!
Water in boot comes through trim clips at base of screen and side mouldings , fuel pump is accessed through removable panel under rear seat
Matt you have worked wonders already and improved a really nice car you can’t let that one go to get a 75 in that condition and provenance would be very difficult and I think you would regret it
The 400 tourer needs a load of work and the Volvo is a great car but this would be a good daily and classic with ulez I hope you keep it I love the 75 and my family worked on the longbridge built cars from when they moved from cowley
I had a lovely 75 cdti connoisseur se with loads mods. lovely car. still have my roof bars and roof box if you wanted to buy them for your 75.
What a find - lovely motor. Keep/sell dilemma wouldn't be a dilemma for me - I'd keep this and bid a fond farewell to the 400 estate. No-brainer as far as I'm concerned!
This is one very good example, at the moment it’s looking to be a straightforward restoration too, hopefully!!.
Well done finding this one Matt, dare I say, I think it’s a keeper ❤.
Thanks Matt, I’m consistently impressed by your patience and attention to detail, I wish I had the same qualities!
I think you’ve got a tidy example of a 75 there, that blue is a nice colour, when I’m interested in buying any Rover product I always ask for Cambelt and Head gasket history about the car, if those haven’t been done I generally walk away.
Glad you didn’t end up with a “rotbox” this time.
I've had a similar quandary in my little collection Matt. I put them all into two piles, ones I definitely do not want to sell, and ones that I would.
The proceeds from the sales will pay for the keepers to be made just right.
You know my collection Matt, the van is going I'm afraid.
Ditch the Volvo & the Rover 400 estate keep this
Probably the best outcome, mixture of both cars. But he needs to flip them, stay strong matt😂
I really like the 75 But the Volvo is my favourite! Mind you there will be top tinkering videos on whatever he keeps
Nooooo! That Volvo is fabulous - but the 400 touring is a bit of a heap (although I’d love to see a DIY paint job project on that).
Don't be stupid
Awesome vlog as always you've definitely got your hands on a decent rover this time reckon that's nearly a 3 grand car if you can manage to part with it
Literally just wet vacced my car today and it also had the same hair product deposits on the head rest. The bissell got through it really well too
P.S. I meant to say if you have not done so you should watch High Peak Autos critique ( very critique 😅 ) on "Should you buy a Rover 75 " - a very good and honest (blunt) summary. P.P.S. I still like all the faux plastic wood and always have and think the Rover 75 is a great looking car.
Nice 75 Matty bodywork has cleaned up well can't believe the 75 is 25 years old this Autumn remember it's 1998 launch when I was a young 24 year old
I'd be tempted to push all three cars down now. Volvo, Rover 400 and the Rover 75. Especially if your wanting material for the TH-cam channel and want to make money for your projects.
Was it a Rover Management car?
Would be great to see an underside restoration, a lot of dealers look at the top, it’s polished but the chassis/ suspension stay’s rusty….. I feel it’s often overlooked..
My Mum has a low mileage 75 (65k) and I have a high mileage (400K) 820 Vitesse. The 75 , compared to my 820 is cramped , claustrophobic, gutless and heavy car to drive with a gearbox that is ponderous and long in the tooth . My 820 is delightful, light clutch, Tomcat engine , much bigger car and able to lug huge heavy loads down the Motorway to my boat every weekend in absolute comfort . Would I want a 75 ? Not until the last 800 had come my way !
For the drain pipes use net curtain wire
Adding this comment who thinks Matt should create a poll to either sell the 75 or to keep! I know he has said he brought it to flip but it’s to good to sell and think he will regret selling it and never replace it with a better one.
water in boot comes from rear light seals. may also get airbag warning light with is just the plugs under the front seats that need lube
I love how Rover themed your fleet is becoming. Two P6s, the Tomcat, 200Vi, Tourer, BMW Mini (to an extent), Morris Mini (to an extent) and now this. It just seems like far too good a car to part with too. It's a hard one to call for what should go instead but I'm tempted to say the 145.
The thing about the 145 is its not the most reliable in terms of niggles, but it is the most fun - nothing else has that special feel it has
@@furiousdriving I have to confess that, despite being a petrol head, I have never driven an Alfa Romeo. Shocking I know. Therefore I've probably not been seduced by as much magic and only see the niggles. In addition, i know how much you've done to this car and how much you searched for one before getting it too so I can see why you would want to keep it. I know you have road trips planned for the Volvo before you contemplate selling too
all the wiring should be there for full memory electric leather heated seats plus rear electric blind plus you can replace lights with ones from china 75 and climate panel as well..... all easy :) just saying...... :) :P
A nice surprise that it's in good condition. The toughest repair is probably those brake lines, otherwise it's cleaning and bolt ons. Can't ask for more!
When I upgraded my ZT 1.8T to ZT190 Front Brakes, no way would that Brake Line Union be undone due to corrosion exposure to road filth, salt and moisture in the Wheel Arch. I had to use an angle cutting disc which destroyed both the metal and flexible rubber hoses. Enjoyed fashioning a new Cupro-Nickle Brake Line and I already had a good Flexible brake hose that came with the ZT190 set up.
The upgrade provided the overall feedback "feel" and initial bite when using the brakes that I prefer. The OEM Brake set up works well but the ZT190 ones are better. There's ZT 190 Brakes on my V8 260. The massive rear calipers on the V8 are the same as those on the front of my son's Lotus Elise S2.
Water in the boot tends to come from the body strip mounting holes & occasionally the tail light blocks.
I agree with others Matt, keep this and sell something else. This will look great in your barn and at the NEC with Mr HubNut and his Australian Ford.
I’ve just bought myself a29;000 mile rover 114 sli. It’s spent periods of time in storage so it’s totally rust free and still has the spot welds showing on the wheel arches. It had a cam belt change at 26;000. But that was in 2008 so before I drie it I think it needs changing .
I think it will! Nothing has a 15 year interval!
@@furiousdriving the dealer I’ve bought it from was going to drive it from Surrey to me in clacton on sea. But decided to put it on a transporter.
Looking good all round, did you note the weeping R/N/S damper? Or was that just an overspray of cleaner. Sorry to mention if it's already in the comments below.
Absolutely love your videos, by far my favourite channel, but please please please stress the importance of supporting the vehicle with an axle stand, I’ve seen far too many accidents over the years
Great video as always! Top cheapskate tip, you can use washing powder in your Bissell, works just as good as the solution 😁
Maybe it’s just me, but I would never accept those brake rotors/pads. New hardware all around and pump through fresh fluid is always my very first move!
Think you're more of a Rover man than a Volvo owner so I'd move on the 7 series. I also think that it wouldn't be a bad idea to rationalise some of your projects and move a couple on, the 400 estate is a lovely car, always preferred it to the touring 3 series BMW in looks, but I think when you have the MB, the Mini and the fleet to look after you need at least one big reliable motor...as long as that head gasket holds out 😉
Groom aerosol can spray from Halfords is good for cleaning headlinings
Agreed Ambersil Groom is ace and it is great for stains on domestic carpets.
I would get rid of the 400 tourer and keep the Volvo. The Volvo is mint and I can’t imagine you could get another easily. But the 400 is pretty bad (in comparison).
Although I would ask, what’s the point of keeping them? What are you going to do with them apart from work on them? I would love to see some road trips / adventures with them.
There's a Rover specialist near to Nantwich and amongst various nice MGs and the like there's a bona-fide Tourer V8 in the same colour as yours which I presume belongs to someone who works there or owns the place. Absolutely glorious!
Lovely 1.8T there, these still look slick! It's odd that earlier 25 and 45 lights don't yellow but the 75's did.
Could you get the wheel re-trimmed with a modern dimpled leather? Worth a gander!
The 200 lights yellow, Im not sure the 25/45 dont, Im sure Ive seen some go.
It could be done but would be a fairly costly option
TOURER V8?!?!
*zooms to Nantwich*
Shame MG Rover didn't plump for the 3v SOHC version (225 kW (306 PS) / 435 Nm) with its 6-speed manual and 5-speed auto!
@@applejuice5272
Rover On Ltd, worth looking up!
It is a shame the multi valve head wasn't the weapon of choice like you say though.
I keep thinking about the fact that the VHPD engine that is the Ford Coyote engine would drop straight in the 75/ZT V8 platform! 😊
@@furiousdriving
I think the later post project drive stuff yellows, usually where the 25 and 45 are concerned. The lights on my early pre-project 'drivel' y2k Rover 25 are still clear as glass though! Never treated or even polished either. Bizarre!
@@kenbarlow5373 Ta! 😊 Oooooooooh, yes! Or a sorted (Ricardo plc) KV8...