The SECRET to Faster Insulation Resistance Testing - TIS ECO MFT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- Are you in the market for an affordable and feature-packed electrician's multifunction tester? Look no further than the TIS ECO MFT! Despite its budget-friendly price, this tester doesn't skimp on functionality. In fact, it offers a range of features that can simplify an electrician's work, particularly when it comes to insulation resistance testing. Want to know more? Join Gary Hayers as he delves into the auto test function and safety voltage options that make this tester truly stand out.
Learn more about the TIS MFT ECO
👉 hub.efixx.co.uk/TIS-MFT-ECO
Check out another great feature of this tester 👉 • Unveiling the Trick Be...
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00:00 The reasonably priced TIS ECO Multi-function tester
00:18 Removing loads which cause insulation test errors
00:50 Setting up an automatic insulation test
01:50 Ramp voltage to identify connected loads
02:20 Tip commander lead with help screen
03:55 Not okay - insulation test failed
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#electricaltesting #testequipment #electricians - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Check out another great feature of this tester 👉 th-cam.com/video/Nlvv5ALDD_c/w-d-xo.html
I've long been in the habit of doing a quick continuity test before switching over to IR. Just to make sure there are no loads and get a heads up on any faults before smashing 500v down the line. This would be a bit of a timesaver.
I have used this exact tester for the past 5 months as was issued to me by work. The menu is clunky, especially when selecting a no trip loop test. The no trip test takes twice as long as a kewtech. It just reminds me of a metrel euro mi3125 in a different case. Stick with a megger or fluke if you want a quick no messing test kit.
Looks like a nice bit of kit. I do like that help function. The way it does that test should save the odd mains powered smoke alarms amonst other things.
I have a Tis Mft pro which took a little time to get used to but now I love it. I wonder if they would ever think of adding these features to the pro.
I got an MFT ECO last year. Had major issues when carrying out no trip EFLI tests, massively fluctuating and inaccurate readings. Also had issues with crabtree starbreaker RCDs and Hager RCDs tripping on a no trip test.
TIS were helpful, they issued a replacement but it still had the same issues, they also re-calibrated twice and updated firmware but couldn't seem to simulate the issues on a test bench. I had the same problems on every single site I worked at, no exaggeration.
They ended up giving me an MFT PRO gen 1 and let me keep the MFT ECO as the main reason I bought it was for EV testing. The MFT PRO is fantastic but the gen 1 doesn't do EV RDC-DD tests.
Would be interesting to know if these issues have been fixed, be it with hardware or firmware updates. I'm not sure how common the issues were but I had it on two different units and from conversations on the phone I got the impression I was not the only one.
I test at 250v first, then if all clear i will test at 500v , bit long winded but in 15 years ive not damaged anything..
I do exactly the same. Never damaged anything in 25 years.
Ditto
What’s Rick’s hand tattoo?
‘All loads removed?’ 😂😂😂😂
Should be 😂😂
Sold, I’m having one.
Marcus has just brought one and he loves it Paul 👍🏻
@@efixx I must offer an apology btw. I commented on last week’s video re:third party items in DB’s.
I popped into the midweek live chat and Gaz was a little perturbed by the issue.
Where can we get the tip commander lead? Thx
Great video gents
Can't beat an oreo double cream
👍🏻
Looks OK..but having to go through all the test sequence again could take longer ..I also test at 250volts first . Then go hunting for lights left in circuit 😅.
Love the MI cable installation 👍👍
We love a bit of MI at eFIXX 👍🏻
Bang goes the 3 hours EICR now there 23 hours long😂
In MV, they've largely given up DC overvoltage for IR post-commissioning, as it can accelerate insulation failures. Is there any sign of this at LV? If LV was according to the MV regime, you might test at 1KV at the factory and prior to energising and then only at maybe 350V after that. I guess that different failure modes probably dominate here: what are the most common reasons for IR failure at LV in the real world? Something other than insulation breakdown?
Does Metrel mi 3155 have this safety build in?
The 3155 Eurotest will start the test then flag up if it thinks loads are connected. Then let’s you decide (press button again) if you want to proceed with IR test. Brilliant machine. Bought mine after I had 2 Megger fail. First died after rain ingress. Second Megger bottom wasn’t joined to the top straight out of the box. Fell apart! The new Megger X1 looks like it’s trying to catch up with the 3155.
Does the mft pro do this ?
Is TIS eco a HT Combitest?
I have heard good things about the TIS MFTs but I just don’t like the form factor ie the shape of it. But would I turn one down if someone offered me one for free no I would not .
Great video Gaz as always 👍
What are doing when there are smart switches .. which are always on?
Im pretty sure my megger throttles back on IR testing if there is a load..
Pretty sure my fluke does too
They do by the very nature that the testers can only supply a very low current at the test voltage so as soon as any device tries to draw any meaningful current the voltage will collapse so this video seems to be a load of pointless marketing wank.
Goodness soooo many button presses think I’ll stick to the Megger and some common sense
I'm forced to use this tester at work, hands down the worst heap of crap tester I've used.
Thanks for the great feed back Ricky 👍
@Test Instrument Solutions Sorry to burst your bubble
For some reason, TH-cam celeb spark sites blow smoke up your jacksy.
The facts are for example- you test Ze 5 times and each time u get a different value, the unit more often than not will trip rcds on Zs testing regardless of setting.
The unit is so bulky and poorly designed to be hung from your neck, which is of course a critical need. It is also a heavy piece of kit.
You wait about 20 seconds for some test results to show on the screen, in which time u feel like smashing your head off the wall.
The test leads are too soft and kink every time they go in the duff wee bag.
I could go on? Absolute pony.
Apart from that it's great 👌
@@r3co0 not burst at all Ricky we’re all good thank you, everyone has an opinion 👍
controversal of switch up on or switch down on. I perfer my switches up on. In old industrial installations it was always up on. If someone is working on equipment and the switch falls down from gravity it could be bad. if its down off it cant fall by itself powering equipment on
We’re not American. I have never known light switches to be on in the up position in any were in England I’m sixty years old and even in the sixties when I was a nipper going to see my Nan her house was built in the forty’s and all the switches in her house light switches and socket switches were up for off down on. Next you’ll want us to change to two pin infused plugs and the American way of wiring ie from CU to socket from that socket to the light switch from that switch to the first light them again from the switch to the rah socket in turn. One circuit for each room.
How many people "must" have both switches up on a 2 way light circuit when the lights are off? OCD 🙄
@@Elberto71 yes , was tort that on two way lighting one switch should be in the off position and the other switch in the on position light off
Using three core two way switches cable brown to common on both switches grey to L1 Black to L2 on one switch then on switch 2 grey to L2 Black to L1 . That way what ever switch is in the ooff position the light will be off but if you switch the on in the on position to the off position the comes on then if you switch either of switch to the on position the will go off. If you come off the ceiling rose you take one two way switch cable and connect grey to the loop in terminal and the black to the switch line terminal , repeat for switch two and join the browns together with a connector block or a inline wago.
@@Elberto71 if it’s a single conversion the the you move the line conductor of the existing cable from coming to L2 then correct the new two way switch cable brown to common the correct the grey and black as in my previous comment, ie grey to L2 and black to L1 on existing switch, grey to L1 black to L2 brown to common at the new switch.
What's the point of it slowly ramping up wasting time when it could just start at 200 ish volts and show a failure immediately. Also the test voltage on any insulation tester is going to be heavily current limited is there really any evidence that a 500v low current insulation test has ever damaged anything? The low current means the voltage will collapse as soon as you try and draw any significant current.
The controls on our oil filled radiator no longer work following a testing "issue"
It doesn’t seem faster to me.
Seems a ton slower to me!
So slow
I had issues with the Ethernet tester from tis and after some not so good customer help I’d rather not try another tis product so I’ll stick with my trusty Kewtec kt65dl thanks😊