Hi Ron, One thing I have noticed about live stream or live chats, is that a lot of people get cut off. There is usually not enough time to answer everybody's questions. There are four main things that attract me to your channel. One, you are a nice guy. Two- you are very encouraging to other Model Railroaders. Three- You explain things very well. And last but not least, you respond to your comments and questions on a regular basis.
Thanks for your comment, Russ. Those are exactly the things I try to do. As my number of aubscribers and viewers grow it gets harder to get to every comment, but I certainly try. 👍
Hi, I’m planning my first layout in about 55 years in a dedicated 10’x 13’ room and cannot decide between HO or N gauge. As I age, I worry about the smaller size of N due to eyesight and arthritis. However, HO needs 36” - 44” diameter turns and I’m planning to have multiple overlapping dog bone long runs around the perimeter of the room to allow constant running, less yard operations. I really like your 45 degree braces to not have legs to the floor off the bench work, so this makes a 44” leg less section more of a challenge. Can you offer any quick advice? Thanks Ron, I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot!
I somehow missed this message and donation. I'm very sorry, and thank you so much. Yes, the cantilevered design works very well for me. It creates so much more space under the layout. Good luck with yours.
Kia ora Ron, what a great idea using Z scale models in the background to give perspective in the distance. Church really does look great. Very clever :)
Hey Ron a quick Note on the T12 bulps vs T8 the Key to the type of light you get is based on the temperature the bulp burns the gas with-in. The correlated color temperature (CCT) of the lamps is controlled by varying the selec- tion of phosphors and the phosphor blend. Like T12 lamps, T8 lamps are available in a variety of color temperatures, including warm (3000 K), neutral (3500 K), cool (4100 K), and very cool (5000 K). This may help www.shineretrofits.com/lighting-center/color-temperatures-kelvin-levels/ Also I heard in other video I believe the person used the cooler white bulps near the rear and Warmer lighting in the front to make some interesting effects.
I know that all of that is true. I am no expert in this area, but one of the selling points of the T8 bulbs is that they are simply brighter, and that extra brightness just comes across as too harsh in the close proximity of a train layout, especially if, like mine, the bulbs are less that 24" from the deck of the layout. I did mention color regarding LEDs and I know there are a variety of LED colors available readily today. I don't have extensive experience with them, but the ones I have see just look too blue to me. I appreciate your comment and the link. That is good information to consider and those who read these comments will benefit from it, as will I. Thanks.
Hi Ron, thank you for picking my question on the powders. I very much apprecited your specific and quick reply back then. I investigated on them instantly and did find them easily thanks to your infos. Yes they are convincing and worth considering. Yet shipping to Germany is banned. So I am still working on ways to get them. Your additional comments today very much rounded it up. I wasn't sure what to expect fron an Q&A and I must say that the interaction is the key. I found the backdrop technique another very helpful input. I will add another source for the ruler, shortly. So allthe best fron Jo the N-scaler
A transparent scale ruler with 160-scale and metric scale (that I am quite happy with) is manufactured (and traded) by: www.auhagen-shop.de/product_info.php?language=de&info=p869_massstabslineal-n.html
I just got into building my 1st layout Ron, I would like to thank you for all the videos you have put out there esp for the beginners of the model train world.. thanks again Ron and keep up the great work on the videos
Hi Ron. I use a combination of 2 or 3 methods, including extruded foam to make my scenery base. My wife and I joke to each other about our Cat playing Trains with me. Sometimes we call our girl cat, Catzilla. Sometimes she likes to walk around on my layout and sniff things. Most of the time she is a respectful cat and does not damage anything. I noticed on this video, when you showed your fluorescent ceiling fixtures, that you ran your romex cables straight into the fixtures without protection. As I am an Electrician myself, I respectfully suggest that you might want to add snap in romex connectors where your cable enters the fixture. You probably will never have a problem, but it is better to be safe than sorry and those plastic connectors are very inexpensive and will bring them to code. I really love your videos and look forward to more. Keep up the good work. Happy Model railroading.
ON the lighting issue, yes t12,8,5 are still available in different lengths they have different (KELVIN ratings). From soft white all the way up to daylight. AS I get older I prefer the daylight just so I can see what I am doing.,but sometimes prefer the softer shades depending on effects. Iam just starting a new layout and not sure which way to go as the flouresent are being phased out? Have been looking at LED but they seem to bright! we will see
I am replacing all of my flourescents with led fixtures. They are available in a variety if color temps. Personally, I'm usingng 5,000 Kelvin. Here is a video I recently made on the topic. th-cam.com/video/dVKP8D4FOJI/w-d-xo.html
THANKS RON, like the video this week, looking forward to seeing the new/old mix for covering the layout, and York idea of sky painting looks a lot easier than most, I'm going to have to try it, but out here in the west (SoCal) we don't have the clouds to offer , thanks again see you next week for sure!
Ron, THANK you for bringing up Monroe Models powders!! 👏👍👍 Carmine and I have been beating our brains, trying to find A.I.M. weathering powders. ....we may be a bit internet dumb! 😜 Also, that's only the third time I've seen the "wet on wet" backdrop method with stippled clouds, since we both learned it, almost 20 years ago! Had practically forgotten about it - but it looks great on yours, and is obviously still a good method - especially for those of us who aren't exactly Artists!! 😱 Murph
To keep your cat track off your layout make a spot for the cat that is equal hight or higher than where the cat normally sits. (On the layout) Everytime you see the cat on the layout move it to its own spot and give it a treat. It is not an immediate fix but it may eventually work. Cats are hard to train but it can be done.
Wichita Falls. Man that place has some middling memories for me. I spent 6 months there for tech school when I was in the Air Force. But it was way better then 1 1/2 hours northwest in old Altus Ok.
Ron you had mentioned you created a modern layout. What defines "modern" in your book? Sure no automobiles from the 50's, but what about railroad names? Did you rule certain lines because they aren't around anymore? Thanks.
hi Ron... great video with a lot of great questions & answers... thanks for the mini shout out... i have been using the CTT scale rule for more than 20 years & as you can see it's getting pretty beat up... thanks for sharing.. vinny
Hello, I am not sure if you had this question, I am looking at doing a bookshelf layout, the problem is I can’t have legs because the couch, chairs, tables, etc will below it. I am thinking of making a C where the bottom will be supported by a 1+4 that is connected to the wall. Then have a second 1x4 that mounts to the wall then have a over hang where lights would cover the layout. I am thinking the 1x4 on the bottom will sag and not stay straight.
I can't envision what you are describing exactly, but you could use shelf brackets. My upper deck is 20" wide and completely supported by shelf brackets.
Good Day Ron, Enjoyed and learned watching this video. Really like how you do the "Q&A" thing.On the "cat issue", use black pepper on the floor leading up to the layout and on the edge of the layout itself. With their acute sense of smell, they will pick it up quick and stay away. Good luck with that and thanks again for the video. D. Muse WTCMRR
Thanks, David. What I really need to pepper is the wing backed chair that sits near the layout. That is the launchpad to the layout. Thanks for watching.
Just getting back into model railroading after a long hiatus. Am now going to model in N scale rather than HO. Anyway, have you done a follow up to your "Planning Software Tutorial" I found this initial tutorial to be fascinating. Waiting your reply.
Hey Ron, new subscriber here,, nice video, just a comment about you light bulbs, the T-12 and T-8, is just a size #,, the bulbs themselves are labeled, such as cool white or daylight, this is the brightness. keep up the great work.
I'm trying to strip a brass locomotive. It has been in brake fluid for over three days and nothing has happened. Does it take longer or do I need a stronger stripper. It has probably been Factory painted with a sealer.
Where do you buy your lights? You can easily buy T12 lights. I just went to our local Home Improvement Center and picked up some T12 light fixtures for $11. All fluorescent lights are being phased out it's just taking some time they shall get replaced with LED shop lights.
That may well be, but I and most model railroaders will tell you we can't afford to replace our entire control system every time the next big thing of the future comes along. I'm pretty sure DCC will still be in use by the majority of model railroaders for many years. I am interested to learn more about radio control going forward, but I don't anticipate replacing my DCC system with it in the near future.
Bah the spray bottle is useless! They get up there, they see me come into the room OR notice them and before I can even grab the bottle the my are bolting off the table destroying things to avoid being sprayed rather than me just physically removing them and sparing damage
Ron, like the videos, New subscriber here. Catching up. Question, noticed when your gluing your using some fine applicators. What do you use and what adhesive are you typically using on your styrene and plastic models?
Hi, Joe. Welcome to the channel. I think what you are refering to is my Touch-N-Flow applicator. This is made for use with solvent cement or MEK types of cement. Here is a link to the applicator. amzn.to/2Bgn2eY
Hi Ron... I want to build my first train set... But I have limited space 20"×60" wood work bench cut down to a coffee table... I have what I think is a nice layout... But not sure if i can go with n scale or should I go with z scale... Could you give me any suggestions...
Well, to run at its best N scale needs about 11" radius or 22" radius curves. That should answer your question. If that will fit on your coffee table I would go N scale. N scale runs much more reliably that Z. If it will not then I would try Z.
Hi Ron, since you don't have a door, why don't you build a fake wall with a door that divdes the layout from the rest of the room. That way you can close the door
Hi Ron, I have a question (or two) about roundhouses and turntables. I model in N scale and want a large roundhouse. How many stalls is it possible to get, is a 50 stall roundhouse possible? How large would a turntable would I need to serve the roundhouse? Last, how much space would be needed to hold all of that? I want to model the D&RGW in today's world, and my wish is to give the impression of a large and very busy Class I railroad. Yes, I know my beloved D&RGW no longer exists since the UP took over, but in my world of fantasy, the takeover of the UP never took place. The D&RGW remains strong and is giving the UP a run for it's money.
Hook a car battery up to your rails while you aren’t running trains, the cat will only touch your rails once or twice! Kidding of course but try putting something even more interesting in the train room to the cat. A cat tree higher up than the layout maybe? You say the cat is in there when you are NOT operating so the prey reaction to a moving train probably isn’t a factor, so maybe the cat is just trying to find a nice high perch. Good luck, I know this is a problem I will have to deal with when I start too.
Thats OK...some people still use only DC. Anyway I suppose your aware of Dead Rail and how unbothersome is it is to use. All those things...you dont have to do.
I hear ya! Gotta keep the wife happy! I just know you wouldn't have that problem with dogs. But since the wife lets you do the train thing...... Keep up the great work, your vids on model railroading are some, if not the best, out there!!! Thank you so much for doing the so badly need editing that most TH-cam videos need!
The cat problem has actually gotten a lot better. A litter spray bottle of water has gotten the point across. I am in SW MO, about an hour north of Joplin, about three hours from Tulsa.
Hi Ron, One thing I have noticed about live stream or live chats, is that a lot of people get cut off. There is usually not enough time to answer everybody's questions. There are four main things that attract me to your channel. One, you are a nice guy. Two- you are very encouraging to other Model Railroaders. Three- You explain things very well. And last but not least, you respond to your comments and questions on a regular basis.
Thanks for your comment, Russ. Those are exactly the things I try to do. As my number of aubscribers and viewers grow it gets harder to get to every comment, but I certainly try. 👍
Very good and professionally made video. Your instructions are very clear.
Ron , That was a way cool video. Loved the info and the format.
Mike
Thanks, Mike. It was fun to do.
Hi, I’m planning my first layout in about 55 years in a dedicated 10’x 13’ room and cannot decide between HO or N gauge. As I age, I worry about the smaller size of N due to eyesight and arthritis. However, HO needs 36” - 44” diameter turns and I’m planning to have multiple overlapping dog bone long runs around the perimeter of the room to allow constant running, less yard operations. I really like your 45 degree braces to not have legs to the floor off the bench work, so this makes a 44” leg less section more of a challenge.
Can you offer any quick advice?
Thanks Ron, I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot!
I somehow missed this message and donation. I'm very sorry, and thank you so much. Yes, the cantilevered design works very well for me. It creates so much more space under the layout. Good luck with yours.
Kia ora Ron, what a great idea using Z scale models in the background to give perspective in the distance. Church really does look great. Very clever :)
Yes, I do that in a couple places on my layout. Thanks for your comment.
I use HO and N scale models the same way on my On30 pike.
Hey Ron a quick Note on the T12 bulps vs T8 the Key to the type of light you get is based on the temperature the bulp burns the gas with-in. The correlated color temperature (CCT) of the lamps is controlled by varying the selec- tion of phosphors and the phosphor blend. Like T12 lamps, T8 lamps are available in a variety of color temperatures, including warm (3000 K), neutral (3500 K), cool (4100 K), and very cool (5000 K). This may help www.shineretrofits.com/lighting-center/color-temperatures-kelvin-levels/
Also I heard in other video I believe the person used the cooler white bulps near the rear and Warmer lighting in the front to make some interesting effects.
I know that all of that is true. I am no expert in this area, but one of the selling points of the T8 bulbs is that they are simply brighter, and that extra brightness just comes across as too harsh in the close proximity of a train layout, especially if, like mine, the bulbs are less that 24" from the deck of the layout. I did mention color regarding LEDs and I know there are a variety of LED colors available readily today. I don't have extensive experience with them, but the ones I have see just look too blue to me. I appreciate your comment and the link. That is good information to consider and those who read these comments will benefit from it, as will I. Thanks.
Hi Ron, thank you for picking my question on the powders. I very much apprecited your specific and quick reply back then. I investigated on them instantly and did find them easily thanks to your infos. Yes they are convincing and worth considering. Yet shipping to Germany is banned. So I am still working on ways to get them. Your additional comments today very much rounded it up. I wasn't sure what to expect fron an Q&A and I must say that the interaction is the key. I found the backdrop technique another very helpful input. I will add another source for the ruler, shortly. So allthe best fron Jo the N-scaler
+Jo NBahner Thanks for your comment. I'm glad you the Q&A useful. 👍
A transparent scale ruler with 160-scale and metric scale (that I am quite happy with) is manufactured (and traded) by: www.auhagen-shop.de/product_info.php?language=de&info=p869_massstabslineal-n.html
+Jo NBahner Awesome. Thanks.
I just got into building my 1st layout Ron, I would like to thank you for all the videos you have put out there esp for the beginners of the model train world.. thanks again Ron and keep up the great work on the videos
Thanks, Matt, and good luck on that layout.
Hi Ron. I use a combination of 2 or 3 methods, including extruded foam to make my scenery base. My wife and I joke to each other about our Cat playing Trains with me. Sometimes we call our girl cat, Catzilla. Sometimes she likes to walk around on my layout and sniff things. Most of the time she is a respectful cat and does not damage anything.
I noticed on this video, when you showed your fluorescent ceiling fixtures, that you ran your romex cables straight into the fixtures without protection. As I am an Electrician myself, I respectfully suggest that you might want to add snap in romex connectors where your cable enters the fixture. You probably will never have a problem, but it is better to be safe than sorry and those plastic connectors are very inexpensive and will bring them to code. I really love your videos and look forward to more. Keep up the good work. Happy Model railroading.
You caught me with my grommets down. Thanks for the reminder of my bad short-cut habits. 👍
Yes, weathering, it's fun.
ON the lighting issue, yes t12,8,5 are still available in different lengths they have different (KELVIN ratings). From soft white all the way up to daylight. AS I get older I prefer the daylight just so I can see what I am doing.,but sometimes prefer the softer shades depending on effects. Iam just starting a new layout and not sure which way to go as the flouresent are being phased out? Have been looking at LED but they seem to bright! we will see
I am replacing all of my flourescents with led fixtures. They are available in a variety if color temps. Personally, I'm usingng 5,000 Kelvin. Here is a video I recently made on the topic. th-cam.com/video/dVKP8D4FOJI/w-d-xo.html
@@RonsTrainsNThings Thanks for the link, it was what I needed :)
great video, you always go out of your way to help new guys, the information you provide is priceless, thank you and have a great thanksgiving....
Thanks, and happy Thanksgiving to you as well.
THANKS RON, like the video this week, looking forward to seeing the new/old mix for covering the layout, and York idea of sky painting looks a lot easier than most, I'm going to have to try it, but out here in the west (SoCal) we don't have the clouds to offer , thanks again see you next week for sure!
Thanks for watching, Jack.
Love your videos ron have a great thanksgiving keep on running trains
Hey, Alex. Thanks for watching. Happy Thanksgiving to you as well. 🍗
Ron, THANK you for bringing up Monroe Models powders!! 👏👍👍
Carmine and I have been beating our brains, trying to find A.I.M. weathering powders.
....we may be a bit internet dumb! 😜
Also, that's only the third time I've seen the "wet on wet" backdrop method with stippled clouds, since we both learned it, almost 20 years ago! Had practically forgotten about it - but it looks great on yours, and is obviously still a good method - especially for those of us who aren't exactly Artists!! 😱
Murph
+JA Murphy Yes, the wet on wet method makes me look better than I am.
Both mine are C.T.T. Dallas, Texas too. my metal one is by Mascot. Good thing to know.
My metal one is made by General.
To keep your cat track off your layout make a spot for the cat that is equal hight or higher than where the cat normally sits. (On the layout) Everytime you see the cat on the layout move it to its own spot and give it a treat. It is not an immediate fix but it may eventually work. Cats are hard to train but it can be done.
Wichita Falls. Man that place has some middling memories for me. I spent 6 months there for tech school when I was in the Air Force. But it was way better then 1 1/2 hours northwest in old Altus Ok.
Ron, all my cats have learned from spray bottles is "Don't get caught doing _____" so... yea.
+Joel Hudson Yes, mine has finally too. 👍
Ron you had mentioned you created a modern layout. What defines "modern" in your book? Sure no automobiles from the 50's, but what about railroad names? Did you rule certain lines because they aren't around anymore?
Thanks.
In my case, I model BNSF in 2008.
Ronni your a pro .greetings from germany.
Thank you, Roger. Thanks for watching.
hi Ron... great video with a lot of great questions & answers... thanks for the mini shout out... i have been using the CTT scale rule for more than 20 years & as you can see it's getting pretty beat up... thanks for sharing.. vinny
You bet, Vinny. Apparently Eric has the same ruler too. I love mine. I hope the one I linked is a good for those who need one today.
Nice segment. Very informative. BTW, I checked the website for those flexible rulers & they're all "out of stock"
+Ray Duda Ugh! How did I miss that? Sorry.
Hello, I am not sure if you had this question, I am looking at doing a bookshelf layout, the problem is I can’t have legs because the couch, chairs, tables, etc will below it. I am thinking of making a C where the bottom will be supported by a 1+4 that is connected to the wall. Then have a second 1x4 that mounts to the wall then have a over hang where lights would cover the layout. I am thinking the 1x4 on the bottom will sag and not stay straight.
I can't envision what you are describing exactly, but you could use shelf brackets. My upper deck is 20" wide and completely supported by shelf brackets.
Good Day Ron, Enjoyed and learned watching this video. Really like how you do the "Q&A" thing.On the "cat issue", use black pepper on the floor leading up to the layout and on the edge of the layout itself. With their acute sense of smell, they will pick it up quick and stay away. Good luck with that and thanks again for the video.
D. Muse WTCMRR
Thanks, David. What I really need to pepper is the wing backed chair that sits near the layout. That is the launchpad to the layout. Thanks for watching.
How to convert athearn rolling stock to truck mounted couplers?. That screw. Lol.
Just getting back into model railroading after a long hiatus. Am now going to model in N scale rather than HO. Anyway, have you done a follow up to your "Planning Software Tutorial" I found this initial tutorial to be fascinating. Waiting your reply.
Ron, did you get your backdrop painting method from MRRA? I remember seeing that method on a instructional video I watched there.
Ron I really enjoy your videos. Hope you do more scratch build type vids in the future. ....Guy
Thanks, Guy. I certainly will. I hope to finish my Holt Hotel kit bash the week after Thanksgiving. Thanks for watching.
Hey Ron, new subscriber here,, nice video, just a comment about you light bulbs, the T-12 and T-8, is just a size #,, the bulbs themselves are labeled, such as cool white or daylight, this is the brightness. keep up the great work.
Hi, Sterling. Welcome to the channel.
I'm trying to strip a brass locomotive. It has been in brake fluid for over three days and nothing has happened. Does it take longer or do I need a stronger stripper. It has probably been Factory painted with a sealer.
I would guess a stronger solvent is your answer, but I have no experience with brass, so I'm no expert here.
HI Ron were the E7 and E8 b units interchangable between these two locos
Where do you buy your lights? You can easily buy T12 lights. I just went to our local Home Improvement Center and picked up some T12 light fixtures for $11. All fluorescent lights are being phased out it's just taking some time they shall get replaced with LED shop lights.
I live in a very small town, so our selection is rather limited.
That explains a lot, and I think it's hard to gather materials.
Why is your name Ronald marsh and not Rons trains N things?
+Zane's Trains N Things I had an Adsense issue. Its fixed now.
Radio Control is the future Ron. DCC will just be for the buildings and crossings.
That may well be, but I and most model railroaders will tell you we can't afford to replace our entire control system every time the next big thing of the future comes along. I'm pretty sure DCC will still be in use by the majority of model railroaders for many years. I am interested to learn more about radio control going forward, but I don't anticipate replacing my DCC system with it in the near future.
In the future, buildings and crossings will likely use LCC.
www.nmra.org/lcc
Oh good lord! I’m experiencing Catmania on my current build and OPEN common area, no doors, no screens, just wide open living room and UGH! Lol
Bah the spray bottle is useless! They get up there, they see me come into the room OR notice them and before I can even grab the bottle the my are bolting off the table destroying things to avoid being sprayed rather than me just physically removing them and sparing damage
Ron, like the videos, New subscriber here. Catching up. Question, noticed when your gluing your using some fine applicators. What do you use and what adhesive are you typically using on your styrene and plastic models?
Hi, Joe. Welcome to the channel. I think what you are refering to is my Touch-N-Flow applicator. This is made for use with solvent cement or MEK types of cement. Here is a link to the applicator. amzn.to/2Bgn2eY
Hi Ron... I want to build my first train set... But I have limited space 20"×60" wood work bench cut down to a coffee table... I have what I think is a nice layout... But not sure if i can go with n scale or should I go with z scale... Could you give me any suggestions...
Well, to run at its best N scale needs about 11" radius or 22" radius curves. That should answer your question. If that will fit on your coffee table I would go N scale. N scale runs much more reliably that Z. If it will not then I would try Z.
Hi Ron, since you don't have a door, why don't you build a fake wall with a door that divdes the layout from the rest of the room. That way you can close the door
Hi Ron, I have a question (or two) about roundhouses and turntables. I model in N scale and want a large roundhouse. How many stalls is it possible to get, is a 50 stall roundhouse possible? How large would a turntable would I need to serve the roundhouse? Last, how much space would be needed to hold all of that? I want to model the D&RGW in today's world, and my wish is to give the impression of a large and very busy Class I railroad. Yes, I know my beloved D&RGW no longer exists since the UP took over, but in my world of fantasy, the takeover of the UP never took place. The D&RGW remains strong and is giving the UP a run for it's money.
Cloudy Amonia sprayed across the doorway would stop the cat entering the room.
+Colin Mansell Lol that would probably stop me from entering the room.
Hahaha - you don't need that much.
+Colin Mansell That much what?
cloudy amonia
Hook a car battery up to your rails while you aren’t running trains, the cat will only touch your rails once or twice! Kidding of course but try putting something even more interesting in the train room to the cat. A cat tree higher up than the layout maybe? You say the cat is in there when you are NOT operating so the prey reaction to a moving train probably isn’t a factor, so maybe the cat is just trying to find a nice high perch. Good luck, I know this is a problem I will have to deal with when I start too.
+The Lowmein We've used the spray bottle whenever we are there and he has mostly stopped getting the layout now.
I have a question :)
+IMRROcom Oh, and I have am answer for yoy. Lol.
Thats OK...some people still use only DC. Anyway I suppose your aware of Dead Rail and how unbothersome is it is to use. All those things...you dont have to do.
Love your videos Ron!....just now saw this one.....as far as keeping the cat off the layout....kill the cat and get a dog.
+Claude Christ Lol I don't think my wife would appreciate that.
I hear ya! Gotta keep the wife happy! I just know you wouldn't have that problem with dogs. But since the wife lets you do the train thing......
Keep up the great work, your vids on model railroading are some, if not the best, out there!!!
Thank you so much for doing the so badly need editing that most TH-cam videos need!
BTW....where are you located? Would love to come by sometime and see your layout in person. I'm in Tulsa, OK.
The cat problem has actually gotten a lot better. A litter spray bottle of water has gotten the point across.
I am in SW MO, about an hour north of Joplin, about three hours from Tulsa.