Awesome demo. I like to ensure no grass around the tree. 1. no competing for nutrients and water. 2. keeping those string trimmers far away from trees and lawn mowers. However, you planted the tree very well and will grow very happy.
Friendly fyi- making sure tree is “level” would actually mean it’s lying in a horizontal orientation. But what you want is for the tree to be plumb, that is perfectly vertical -up and down. :) Many many people say level when they mean plumb. :)
Great video!👍I just got a bunch of bare-root trees 🌳from The Arbor Day Foundation, and I found their video wanting, so I looked for one that actually showed someone doing it. This did that and provided additional tips and info. I've really gotten into landscaping at my house, which is new and sits on about an acre that had not one single tree on it. I have planted now 15 trees, 5 maples the first year from pots, 2 superior hybrid poplars the second year from pots, 6 slender silhouette sweet gums in a row this year that I'd ordered online and were bare-root, but I didn't know that's what they were and they've been very slow to" wake up," but the last one, which I feared dead and was really going to throw off the whole six in a row look since it was second from the end, is just waking up now, so they're no longer dormant, are getting leaves on them, and they seem to be doing fine in spite of my not knowing better and so not following these instructions, like not soaking the roots in water or doing really any of these steps--- lucky! And now I've got 7 more various trees from The Arbor Day Foundation that said they were bare-root, good to know because then I looked up what that meant and what to do, so now, because of your video, I know what to do, how to do it right. Thanks for that! So informative! I've just become your newest subscriber!
Have you ever heard of "mudding" in a bareroot tree? A guy taught me how to do it with bare rose bushes and cutting and they grew really well with almost none dying. You mix water and soil to make mud and then pack around roots in the hole. He said it made sure the roots had good contact with soil and that not too much air stayed in soil. He talked about it replicating a water saturated soil kind of like what you did at the end. He also put organic mater like mulch/compost in the bottom and mulched around the roots after finishing to give the roots some extra moisture and to kick off soil life. Could have just been an old wives tale but it sure seems to work for me.
How is it going? I have 6 pawpaw's coming in the spring. I really ordered them as an impulse buy while ordering some birch trees. Now I'm way more excited for the pawpaw's though. Lol
Latest science shows a very large, shallow bowl is the best approach for bare root. As deep as needed, three times as wide. Gives the roots lots of lateral soft dirt to grow into and accelerates time until fruit.
I've watched several "how to plant bare root" videos, and gotten conflicting advice. Here is some of the conflicting advice: 1 Use (or don't use) an anti-fungal 2 Before planting: soak overnight, or soak for one hour, or don't soak. 3 Prune the roots or don't 4 Add compost to the hole or don't 5 Strip grass away so roots don't compete with the young tree, or put grass back. 6 Plant at once or keep roots moist and wait up to a week as long as the tree is still dormant. 7 Prune the branches or don't. What is your take on all of this conflicting advice?
I've also heard a lot of differing advice from different sources. So far I haven't fertilized my 2 newly planted plum trees. My biggest dilemma is to fertilize or not to fertilize. Directions which came with my trees said not to for the first few years, but a video from university of Santa Cruz said to top dress with granular fertilizer & compost. They also said to make sure the graft union is facing north, which I didn't know at the time & didn't do that. Now I'm wondering if I should go out top dress my new trees or not?
I think it can vary on the kind of tree you plant, like for adding compost, for my slender silhouette sweet gums, the advice was not to because if they grow very fast already and adding compost will only accelerate that, which can result in the top splitting into two columns instead of remaining a single column, which is the desired asthetic, but for my white oak tree, the advice was to add compost because it is very slow-growing and the roots want to grow before the top, so without compost accelerating that process, the white oak may not be established enough by the time winter comes to survive, or even if it does, the next year, it may not get established enough to grow leaves until July or August, meaning that even if it survives, it can set the growth back two or three years by not composting. The same goes for roots-- some trees have roots that are more prone to rotting than others, like if you have a tree that thrives it wet or even soggy soil, like a willow, overnight would be good, but if you have a tree that prefers loamy, well-drained soil, like a maple, then you'd only want to soak the roots for a couple of hours because they don't like to stay wet as they can quickly start to rot. The same for grass as some trees grow lots of surface roots, like maples, and would compete with grass that first year or so, while other trees grow deeper roots systems below the grass, like zelkovas and fruit trees, and so won't and the grass will actually help the underlying soil regulate and retain the ideal amount of moisture-- the thing to be careful about grass, though, is weed-whacking, because unless you put a guard around the trunk, you can easily kill the tree by weed-whacking around the circumferance of the tree and damaging the thin, tender bark all the way around, which cutting through the bark in a complete circle around its trunk is a death sentence for any tree, regardless of age.
@@benjaminharman1987 Great point you shared about protecting tree trunks to anyone who may not yet be aware. Earlier this spring when I had planted my own trees I protected their trunks by mulching each new tree with approximately a 4 ft. wide circle of mulch and also added very low height decorative fence around the outer edge of each mulch circle. This way there's no danger of mowing or weed wacking anywhere near our new trees trunks, plus It looks nice too.
Thanks! I really enjoy your method of giving helpful information! Look forward to them every day! Could you do an update video on your rabbits since you expanded? what changes you might have made in cages, logging, breeding, and processing?
Thanks Sarah!! I just ordered 2 cherry plums trees a couple days ago to be sent to Maryland sometime late fall 2018 and I was going to deal with it when they came! This just came up on my subscription page. Yeay!! Love you guys. Thanks.
You should use tree protector/sleeves, especially on fruit trees. Mice, voles and rabbits love that young tender bark. They can easily girdle a young tree in a very short time. In the case of this tree I would prune that first little branch to be able to use as tall a protector/sleeve as possible. Don't forget snow. I've seen mice and rabbits girdle young fruit trees as high as three feet in the winter. Tree protector/sleeves also protect tender bark from string trimmers and lawn mowers. They also help prevent sucker growth from the root stock and branch growth from the lower trunk. If you have deer in your area or have goats might get into the area where the tree is planted, you should definitely consider in addition a 2x4" welded wire cage 24" in diameter and at least 48" high. Browsers love the tender young fruit tree bark. You might think this is overkill, but, it is not. I've learned this the hard way from 45 years of experience.
There's snowshoe hare and meadow voles around my place by the thousands. They have never touched the fruit trees I planted, funny. 11 trees and ten bushes so far.
From my 45 years of experience, you have been extremely fortunate. Many times over the years people have shown me young fruit trees that they believed were killed by deer browsing, girdled two to three feet up on the young tree. Close inspection of the tooth marks showed rabbit, vole and mouse damage. Deep snow gets those critters high off the ground. I experienced the same thing in my orchards before I started using tree protector/sleeves. Again you have been extremely fortunate. What area of the country do you live in?
Deer will eat any new growth on fruit trees they can. I've had an older apple tree almost killed by a moose and one of my cherry trees was almost eaten completely. Deer don't girdle a tree, they eat the growing tips of the branches.
I love this video! How do the trees look now? I am buying bare roots trees and was intimidated by the process. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I just got a Sumac and Sourwood from the nursery in Tennessee. It was 10 degrees here in Boston yesterday, 40's today. The ground may be frozen. I should be able to plant them now, yes, as they were recently outside. Do you think? Very good video. Franco in Boston
I use another method to make sure the dirt is all around the roots. I shake the tree a little as I fill the hole. As you shake it all the bits of soil fill the holes around and under the roots.
Hello, enjoyed your video.. one question, is it not necessary to fertilize the plant while planting it? Also, what soil amendment would you suggest for clay soil?
I just stubbed onto your channel i'm loving what i see so far also watched your video on the turtles from 7 months ago i really like the frying pan rack you have in the dinning room can you tell how you made it and the sizes of pans on it Thanks and God Bless and keep you
I meant to say if the entire branch breaks at the base will it still grow? I just did this a few days ago but I think I need to purchase a new one because it broke completely.
This was really helpful. I have a question: now that you’ve put the tree in the ground and it’s obviously dormant and will be for a while, do you keep watering the tree all winter long?
Have you had any luck with bareroot north american PawPaw trees (Asimina triloba)? Supposedly they survive better when planted in Spring during active growth when the new leaves are emerging.
I am wondering about putting the grass back down. Would you rather keep away from the tree to keep it from competing for water and nutrients? I was planning on putting down landscaping fabric around the tree, about 1.5 x 1.5 m...
I want to buy a Flame Thrower Redbud 2 ft bare root sapling, but I’m afraid it wouldn’t survive planting in 85-90 degree August temperatures here in Zone 6a. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
How often do you water bare root trees? I planted a red maple tree, about a foot shorter in height than the one in your video and I'm not sure if I'm watering too much, or too little. I live in South Texas so the heat is 100F-110F during these months. Thank you!
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. Will a semi dwarf tree pollinate a dwarf or does a dwarf have to pollinate a dwarf? Very limited selection of dwarf trees in my area of the variety I would like.
I am so jealous of the beautiful deep dark soil you have in that hole. We dig down about 6-8 inches and hit bedrock, no the best for planting fruit trees.
My cherry tree woke up and started to bud out before I got a chance to plant it. I planted it then all the leaves fell off. I’m still watering every other day. Will it wake again this season after the first wake up was disrupted??
Your hole shape advice is NOT FOR CLAY SOIL. The tender baby roots will struggle to get into the clay soil. Can you recommend how to amend the soil for clay soil? Thx 😊
HELP!!! I just received a replacement order from Burgees (My entire order last year died :( ) It's raspberries, strawberries, elderberries, grapes and a cocktail tree. But I'm in zone 6 and I can't plant anything until mid MAY!!!!! What do I do???? They're all bare root, except the strawberries they seem to be sandy, and I have no green house to pot them in! I don't want this order to die again, because I can't get it replaced again. Any ideas?! I wasn't not expecting these so soon!
your right about your conspiracy theory of the disappearing soil when you dig a hole...........................i reckon its the worms getting their own back on us. by coming up to the pile and pinching it while your not looking.....lol.....:) best wishes from sunny Australia fans....!!
I don't think this lady knows that much like she think she does about this matter. Most of her tips were already listed as common knowledge online, although she didn't offer much. Many professional growers put the tree higher than the ground level to promote drainage, and their trees grow very vigorous and produce hard-to-grow fruits at a respected level. They don't have to use a level to measure like she did ( I know she wanted to demonstrate to the viewers, but still). A layer of organic compost at the bottom of the hole would help too. She didn't cut back the dormant tree 's top, although that was recommended by growers, and her tree's top was very dried up. Cutting back the dormant tree would encourage the newer grow. The dried dead part could also a risky for disease and the top competing for nutrients while the small tree's root system hasn't yet established, Put back the grass is also not a good move. Even if the tree's roots are deep enough, so the grass wouldn't compete for water and nutrient with the tree, but later on they will become a problem when you want to add fertilize of any kinds. I have seen many YTers with tremendous knowledge, yet they remain humble enough to not begin their video clips with " Today I'm going to teach you ". I don't know why the internet has this clip in the front section when searching about bareroot tree's planting.
Y'all in the comments trying to mansplain to her... I'm *pretty* sure she knows what she's talking about, given she has clearly done this a million times and has a successful homestead. She likely knows more than you; how many of you are homesteaders? She doesn't need told how to do her work from random people sitting in an apartment with no actual clue what they're talking about.
Thanks! I really enjoy your method of giving helpful information! Look forward to them every day! Could you do an update video on your rabbits since you expanded? what changes you might have made in cages, logging, breeding, and processing?
![How To Plant BARE ROOT FRUIT TREES In Ground AND In Containers [COMPLETE GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VTNJj4AYbeA/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome demo. I like to ensure no grass around the tree. 1. no competing for nutrients and water. 2. keeping those string trimmers far away from trees and lawn mowers. However, you planted the tree very well and will grow very happy.
Yeah, mulch around the tree. Not growing grass.
Friendly fyi- making sure tree is “level” would actually mean it’s lying in a horizontal orientation. But what you want is for the tree to be plumb, that is perfectly vertical -up and down. :)
Many many people say level when they mean plumb. :)
Thank you for this video! I love all the detail that you included. Perfect, since I am getting ready to put my bare root peach tree in the ground!
Great video!👍I just got a bunch of bare-root trees 🌳from The Arbor Day Foundation, and I found their video wanting, so I looked for one that actually showed someone doing it. This did that and provided additional tips and info. I've really gotten into landscaping at my house, which is new and sits on about an acre that had not one single tree on it. I have planted now 15 trees, 5 maples the first year from pots, 2 superior hybrid poplars the second year from pots, 6 slender silhouette sweet gums in a row this year that I'd ordered online and were bare-root, but I didn't know that's what they were and they've been very slow to" wake up," but the last one, which I feared dead and was really going to throw off the whole six in a row look since it was second from the end, is just waking up now, so they're no longer dormant, are getting leaves on them, and they seem to be doing fine in spite of my not knowing better and so not following these instructions, like not soaking the roots in water or doing really any of these steps--- lucky! And now I've got 7 more various trees from The Arbor Day Foundation that said they were bare-root, good to know because then I looked up what that meant and what to do, so now, because of your video, I know what to do, how to do it right. Thanks for that! So informative! I've just become your newest subscriber!
Where do you get a special stick like that to tamp the dirt in the hole, lol. Great video.
Worth watching just for the stamping down with a stick trick! Thank you.
Have you ever heard of "mudding" in a bareroot tree? A guy taught me how to do it with bare rose bushes and cutting and they grew really well with almost none dying. You mix water and soil to make mud and then pack around roots in the hole. He said it made sure the roots had good contact with soil and that not too much air stayed in soil. He talked about it replicating a water saturated soil kind of like what you did at the end. He also put organic mater like mulch/compost in the bottom and mulched around the roots after finishing to give the roots some extra moisture and to kick off soil life. Could have just been an old wives tale but it sure seems to work for me.
Thanks Miss Sarah Drangle for planting the Brare root brangus tree
Do u have a follow up. It's been 2 years hows the tree doing
Dead
Trying my first bare roots this coming weekend, and I appreciate the tips. I have three pawpaw trees that I'll be starting. Wish me luck!
How is it going? I have 6 pawpaw's coming in the spring. I really ordered them as an impulse buy while ordering some birch trees. Now I'm way more excited for the pawpaw's though. Lol
Good tip to dig the hole in the shape of the root stock---Thanks for the advice.
Latest science shows a very large, shallow bowl is the best approach for bare root. As deep as needed, three times as wide. Gives the roots lots of lateral soft dirt to grow into and accelerates time until fruit.
Yes! It happens to other people too - half the dirt you dig up disappears! lol ... thanks for the video
I've watched several "how to plant bare root" videos, and gotten conflicting advice.
Here is some of the conflicting advice:
1 Use (or don't use) an anti-fungal
2 Before planting: soak overnight, or soak for one hour, or don't soak.
3 Prune the roots or don't
4 Add compost to the hole or don't
5 Strip grass away so roots don't compete with the young tree, or put grass back.
6 Plant at once or keep roots moist and wait up to a week as long as the tree is still dormant.
7 Prune the branches or don't.
What is your take on all of this conflicting advice?
I've also heard a lot of differing advice from different sources. So far I haven't fertilized my 2 newly planted plum trees. My biggest dilemma is to fertilize or not to fertilize. Directions which came with my trees said not to for the first few years, but a video from university of Santa Cruz said to top dress with granular fertilizer & compost. They also said to make sure the graft union is facing north, which I didn't know at the time & didn't do that. Now I'm wondering if I should go out top dress my new trees or not?
I think it can vary on the kind of tree you plant, like for adding compost, for my slender silhouette sweet gums, the advice was not to because if they grow very fast already and adding compost will only accelerate that, which can result in the top splitting into two columns instead of remaining a single column, which is the desired asthetic, but for my white oak tree, the advice was to add compost because it is very slow-growing and the roots want to grow before the top, so without compost accelerating that process, the white oak may not be established enough by the time winter comes to survive, or even if it does, the next year, it may not get established enough to grow leaves until July or August, meaning that even if it survives, it can set the growth back two or three years by not composting. The same goes for roots-- some trees have roots that are more prone to rotting than others, like if you have a tree that thrives it wet or even soggy soil, like a willow, overnight would be good, but if you have a tree that prefers loamy, well-drained soil, like a maple, then you'd only want to soak the roots for a couple of hours because they don't like to stay wet as they can quickly start to rot. The same for grass as some trees grow lots of surface roots, like maples, and would compete with grass that first year or so, while other trees grow deeper roots systems below the grass, like zelkovas and fruit trees, and so won't and the grass will actually help the underlying soil regulate and retain the ideal amount of moisture-- the thing to be careful about grass, though, is weed-whacking, because unless you put a guard around the trunk, you can easily kill the tree by weed-whacking around the circumferance of the tree and damaging the thin, tender bark all the way around, which cutting through the bark in a complete circle around its trunk is a death sentence for any tree, regardless of age.
@@benjaminharman1987 Great point you shared about protecting tree trunks to anyone who may not yet be aware. Earlier this spring when I had planted my own trees I protected their trunks by mulching each new tree with approximately a 4 ft. wide circle of mulch and also added very low height decorative fence around the outer edge of each mulch circle. This way there's no danger of mowing or weed wacking anywhere near our new trees trunks, plus It looks nice too.
dress it with a few inches of wood chips every year@@Earthy-Artist
THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR INFO AND TIPS ON BARE ROOT TREES, THANKS AND HAVE A GREAT AND BLESSED 👍😎
good day to you guys !! thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience on the Easiest Way to Plant Bare Root Trees
Thank you! I did it! 2 more to go. God bless you too.
Very helpful thank you! Just had a plumb tree arrive today. Needed this info!
Thanks! I really enjoy your method of giving helpful information! Look forward to them every day! Could you do an update video on your rabbits since you expanded? what changes you might have made in cages, logging, breeding, and processing?
Excellent video. Thanks!
Another Great video Sarah! Love the special care you put into planting your trees. It will thank you later!
Thanks Sarah!! I just ordered 2 cherry plums trees a couple days ago to be sent to Maryland sometime late fall 2018 and I was going to deal with it when they came! This just came up on my subscription page. Yeay!! Love you guys. Thanks.
You should use tree protector/sleeves, especially on fruit trees.
Mice, voles and rabbits love that young tender bark.
They can easily girdle a young tree in a very short time.
In the case of this tree I would prune that first little branch to be able to use as tall a protector/sleeve as possible.
Don't forget snow.
I've seen mice and rabbits girdle young fruit trees as high as three feet in the winter.
Tree protector/sleeves also protect tender bark from string trimmers and lawn mowers.
They also help prevent sucker growth from the root stock and branch growth from the lower trunk.
If you have deer in your area or have goats might get into the area where the tree is planted, you should definitely consider in addition a 2x4" welded wire cage 24" in diameter and at least 48" high.
Browsers love the tender young fruit tree bark.
You might think this is overkill, but, it is not.
I've learned this the hard way from 45 years of experience.
There's snowshoe hare and meadow voles around my place by the thousands. They have never touched the fruit trees I planted, funny. 11 trees and ten bushes so far.
From my 45 years of experience, you have been extremely fortunate.
Many times over the years people have shown me young fruit trees that they believed were killed by deer browsing, girdled two to three feet up on the young tree.
Close inspection of the tooth marks showed rabbit, vole and mouse damage.
Deep snow gets those critters high off the ground.
I experienced the same thing in my orchards before I started using tree protector/sleeves.
Again you have been extremely fortunate.
What area of the country do you live in?
Phil.Paula Stocks I also had moles/mice/deee strip new fruit trees as well.
Deer will eat any new growth on fruit trees they can. I've had an older apple tree almost killed by a moose and one of my cherry trees was almost eaten completely. Deer don't girdle a tree, they eat the growing tips of the branches.
Don't put the grass back. Mulch around the trunk. Grass growing next to a newly planted tree is a no no. Look it up
Glad I found this! I have three trees coming in spring! 🤗
We just planted three apple trees yesterday. great video.
I love this video! How do the trees look now? I am buying bare roots trees and was intimidated by the process. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
LOVED THIS VIDEO SARAH!!!!!!!!!!
Planting trees....one of my favorite things!
If you notch that pipe you could set tree in it at right level and use both hands.
Love you Sarah. Level is horizontal, Plumb is verticai
I'll never remember that! Lol! 😂
Just make sure you have a plumb plum tree. haha I crack myself up....
Excellent! I was gifted with 2 peach trees and was kind of nervous about planting them. Not anymore! Thanks!
I just got a Sumac and Sourwood from the nursery in Tennessee. It was 10 degrees here in Boston yesterday, 40's today. The ground may be frozen. I should be able to plant them now, yes, as they were recently outside. Do you think? Very good video. Franco in Boston
Would love to see a follow up on this video. Thanks for sharing.
I use another method to make sure the dirt is all around the roots. I shake the tree a little as I fill the hole. As you shake it all the bits of soil fill the holes around and under the roots.
Thank you for the instructions. 😊
...I want to plant fruit trees on about a 1/2 acre. I understand the depth but how far apart do you suggest the fruit trees should be?...
Amazing video! Super helpful. Thank you
Great video! How long should it take to see life in your trees? I planted some 10 weeks ago and still just look like sticks.
Great information I just got five fruit trees so I'm a planet tomorrow
Hello, enjoyed your video.. one question, is it not necessary to fertilize the plant while planting it? Also, what soil amendment would you suggest for clay soil?
Great video Sarah.
I love ur idea
Great informative video
I just stubbed onto your channel i'm loving what i see so far also watched your video on the turtles from 7 months ago i really like the frying pan rack you have in the dinning room can you tell how you made it and the sizes of pans on it Thanks and God Bless and keep you
hey Sarah do you recommend buying bare root trees? i noticed they are cheaper so im thinking since they are cheaper they might not be as good
Great trick! I think I need some bare root fruit trees. 😉
I meant to say if the entire branch breaks at the base will it still grow? I just did this a few days ago but I think I need to purchase a new one because it broke completely.
This was really helpful. I have a question: now that you’ve put the tree in the ground and it’s obviously dormant and will be for a while, do you keep watering the tree all winter long?
Very good advice! Thank you for sharing 😊
I enjoy your videos, and learn so much from you both..... keep them coming 👍🏻
Have you had any luck with bareroot north american PawPaw trees (Asimina triloba)? Supposedly they survive better when planted in Spring during active growth when the new leaves are emerging.
I am wondering about putting the grass back down. Would you rather keep away from the tree to keep it from competing for water and nutrients? I was planning on putting down landscaping fabric around the tree, about 1.5 x 1.5 m...
I want to buy a Flame Thrower Redbud 2 ft bare root sapling, but I’m afraid it wouldn’t survive planting in 85-90 degree August temperatures here in Zone 6a. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
How often do you water bare root trees? I planted a red maple tree, about a foot shorter in height than the one in your video and I'm not sure if I'm watering too much, or too little. I live in South Texas so the heat is 100F-110F during these months. Thank you!
Great video!
Thank you for your content.
Loved this! Thank you!! 😍
Should I water it once ever week or 2 weeks or just water once when I plant it?
Thank you
Would you add some of your rabbit manure "tea" to the water you pre soak your roots in?
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. Will a semi dwarf tree pollinate a dwarf or does a dwarf have to pollinate a dwarf? Very limited selection of dwarf trees in my area of the variety I would like.
I am so jealous of the beautiful deep dark soil you have in that hole. We dig down about 6-8 inches and hit bedrock, no the best for planting fruit trees.
My cherry tree woke up and started to bud out before I got a chance to plant it. I planted it then all the leaves fell off. I’m still watering every other day. Will it wake again this season after the first wake up was disrupted??
do you see any issue to plant the tree on the aerobic septic irrigation radius?
Thanks, great video!
That was really good. sue xx
Thank you for this video
Thanks for sharing
Your hole shape advice is NOT FOR CLAY SOIL. The tender baby roots will struggle to get into the clay soil. Can you recommend how to amend the soil for clay soil? Thx 😊
If the tree breaks at base while planting will it still grow
HELP!!! I just received a replacement order from Burgees (My entire order last year died :( ) It's raspberries, strawberries, elderberries, grapes and a cocktail tree. But I'm in zone 6 and I can't plant anything until mid MAY!!!!! What do I do???? They're all bare root, except the strawberries they seem to be sandy, and I have no green house to pot them in! I don't want this order to die again, because I can't get it replaced again. Any ideas?! I wasn't not expecting these so soon!
Great info! Thank you!!
Water the next bit with compost water ? Or rabbit tea ?
your right about your conspiracy theory of the disappearing soil when you dig a hole...........................i reckon its the worms getting their own back on us. by coming up to the pile and pinching it while your not looking.....lol.....:) best wishes from sunny Australia fans....!!
I planted one of my fruit trees too shallow. The root stock sprouted and now I have two trees growing from the one root system.
✔️ Excellent! 😍 💘
Any recommendations on where I should order my trees from?
We order ours from Stark Bros. We've had good luck with them.
What about compost for the tree?
(dirt) ava mo lol, great video have a blessed day.
How come you put the grass back, isn't it better to keep the grass away from the tree so it doesn't take all the nutrients?
I was surprised about the grass being put back. My initial impression is that it will compete for nutrient with the growing tree.
I don't think this lady knows that much like she think she does about this matter. Most of her tips were already listed as common knowledge online, although she didn't offer much. Many professional growers put the tree higher than the ground level to promote drainage, and their trees grow very vigorous and produce hard-to-grow fruits at a respected level. They don't have to use a level to measure like she did ( I know she wanted to demonstrate to the viewers, but still). A layer of organic compost at the bottom of the hole would help too.
She didn't cut back the dormant tree 's top, although that was recommended by growers, and her tree's top was very dried up. Cutting back the dormant tree would encourage the newer grow. The dried dead part could also a risky for disease and the top competing for nutrients while the small tree's root system hasn't yet established, Put back the grass is also not a good move. Even if the tree's roots are deep enough, so the grass wouldn't compete for water and nutrient with the tree, but later on they will become a problem when you want to add fertilize of any kinds.
I have seen many YTers with tremendous knowledge, yet they remain humble enough to not begin their video clips with " Today I'm going to teach you ". I don't know why the internet has this clip in the front section when searching about bareroot tree's planting.
The broken grass turf upside down will just compost as time goes.
Dig a trench and lie the bare roots in it and water. Cover it with earth and plant next day, day after. But don't leave in trench too long.
What about temperature ?
TFS
No compost ring?
How is the tree now?
Is that a grafted tree?
+oddo pops Yes.
Good helpful video, I prefer the description "soil" or "earth" to "dirt".
Learn the difference in level and plumb. Level would have the tree lying flat on the ground.
Dig a fifty dollar hole for a five dollar plant. Grandpa rulesď
☘️
that stick could damage the roots of the tree.
dont forget to buy something to protect tree from deer and other wood eating animals like groundhogs
Y'all in the comments trying to mansplain to her... I'm *pretty* sure she knows what she's talking about, given she has clearly done this a million times and has a successful homestead. She likely knows more than you; how many of you are homesteaders? She doesn't need told how to do her work from random people sitting in an apartment with no actual clue what they're talking about.
You are using 100% native soil with no amendments whatsoever? What about some compost or material to balance pH/drainage issues?
Damp shredded news paper. .
Forget the tree. Plant some grass.
Thanks! I really enjoy your method of giving helpful information! Look forward to them every day! Could you do an update video on your rabbits since you expanded? what changes you might have made in cages, logging, breeding, and processing?